I was bumbling around at work trying to repair a radio antenna connection. I had a general idea of how it worked from watching the guys around me, but when I finished the radio kept shorting out. Long story short, one of the guys explained what I was doing wrong so I went and looked up a couple of videos but this was the first one that I found that actually shows how to test the cables!
Before I cut the cable, I put a length of shrink tubing on the coax, then the sleeve, make the cut and crimp. I then slide the shrink tube over the crimp and shrink it down making a moisture proof cover. Your video is a great primer for anyone who needs to make cable assemblies. It was good to see you doing the continuity test as well ...
nothing like a good squeeze by a capable lady. I like to double heat shrink the cable to the furrell back up the cable at least 6 inches. It acts as water seal and more important it is a strain relief to the connector. The heavy cable tends to pull too hard on the connector if you don't provide some sort of cable guide or strain relief. Try it you will like it.
Wilson, the software you mention is one of many that does antenna analysis. I don't know any of them, but plan to learn one of the most popular, EZNEC. I have a tutorial book and it will be the subject of videos in the future.
Each end should be tested before going to the other end. That way you know which one has got messed up if you find you are shorted. Gets to be a real pain when you have a long piece of coax that you have to figure out where a short is once their are installed. Terry
I've recently changed to the crimp-type connectors and love them. But, I always tin the center conductor before installation. May be my OCD, I dunno. I also use a couple of inches of heat shrink tube over the feral to seal out weather and act as a strain relief.
After a 35-year detour, I am returning to Amateur Radio. Your posts have been central to my "re-education," David. My mistake might be a topic for a future post on the LACK of use of electronic equipment. I purchased a Yaesu 757 GX new in 1986 - then my Marine Corps career got in the way of amateur radio. I was confident this year of putting the rig back into use because, after all, it had sat idle in my den. An RF engineer and Ham - Bill Grassa - N4ATS, diagnosed the rig as having no ROM, few working capacitors and corroded battery. Another repair shop explained: The typical service life of the early solid state transceivers runs approximately 15 years, then various problems crop up. For equipment that has seen little use (low operating time) the most common failure is the aluminum electrolytic capacitors, which tend to fail in long term storage. And there are hundreds of these types of capacitors in the average 100 watt transceiver. Another concern is the aging memory back- up battery in the 757, which is known to leak corrosive electrolyte and eat away at other components etc., if it has not been replaced every ten years. 73, Chip Lohman, NN4U
gave a "like" because I, like you, have made a detour from ham radio for about 35 years in ur time frame. So videos like this are very useful to me as well.
The 2 blade stripping tool cuts the dielectric flush with the braid. However those connectors have a short length of travel internally where the braid crimp ends and the connector dielectric begins. This means you have bare stripped center conductor within that connector for a few millimeters before it reaches the connector's teflon insulator. During that short length- the only dielectric between the center conductor and PL body is air. The 3 blade stripping tool leaves some dielectric protruding beyond the braid before coming down to bare center conductor. This short length of dielectric fills that gap within the PL body and butts up against the connector's own dielectric. This maintains a more consistent impedance throughout.
"During that short length- the only dielectric between the center conductor and PL body is air" ..yeah, air at best, and given that the knurled barrel did not slide under the outer insulation as it should, you may find rain water gets in and acts as a dialectric too. I ALWAYS make sure that the knurled section enters under the outer insulation. Yes, it makes it harder for the collar to be advanced, but when it does, and it's crimped, that end is MUCH more water resistant.
The lengths printed on cable can be used to measure easily how much cable you need as the printed measurements increase or decrease depending on which way you go. Saves measuring by other means.
Dave, the length of the cable printed on the cable helps determine the length when cutting off the main spool... it should be a different amount every foot of cable. KN4OTY 73
"pull the whole thing off" .. that was my problem. I was removing the coax from the stripper and manually pulling the sections loose. Thanks AGAIN Dave. :D
Whew!!! So glad the kit came with a "big hairy" cutter and not a "big hairy" stripper.....that might be a little awkward when it came time for the "manly squeeze".
Daad gummit Dave, your shack is SOOOO clean and organized ... mine is a disaster area most times ... great video brother thank you very much. 73 de AD7VV
Dave, Good video and the closeups were in focus. I flow some solder on the end of the wire to keep them together before cutting off the excess. 73 WB3BJU
Radio shack also sold a version of these which I have used. The cartridges in the Radio shack versions are glass and any arcing leaves a mark on the glass. You can buy the little glass cartridges on ebay... {I think that is where I got them}.... for static charges from lightning.... I have just disconnected all MY antennas as We have a big storm with lightning over head at the moment. when I had an 80m loop antenna about 30 feet high, When there was lightning about I would disconnect the pl-259 and sit it near something earthed/grounded, and You could hear the arcing.... My loop was made from enamel covered wire then pvc covered wire.... I have also had a direct lightning strike which melted part of the N connectors I was using at the time....it also burnt out part of the braid of My RG-213 cable ..... and melted baluns on My antennas etc... also burnt out My rotator.... all replaced by Insurance company.... but I still like to disconnect My radios when I am not home.... VK2LEE LEE
few notes: - don't ever use the stripper tool to pull off the coax ends. it might not have cut all the way through and/or might not be adjusted correctly - you will most likely have to adjust the coax stripper, strip a SMALL length first to make sure you don't nick the center conductor or the shielding - when testing continuity its fine to touch one probe with your skin, but touching two might cause you to read continuity when there isn't any
Suggest you check for a short after connector number 1. If there's a short after connector number 2, you don't know which connector to redo. Otherwise, worth viewing.
The cable night be RoHS compliant, but the tin/lead solder certainly isn't. 'Lead free' solder requires higher temperature to flow, but otherwise is the same as soldering with lead.
Can you show how to add an SO-239 crimped connector to a piece of coax cable? For example if you wanted to make a removable choke that could be added to or removed from either end of that antenna run (without using a barrel connector) then you might make a choke using a 5 foot piece of coax wound 11 times thru a ferrite core with an SO-239 connector on one end and a PL-259 connector on the other end. (There are lots of videos showing how to add PL-259 connectors, but very few videos show how to add SO-239 connectors.) Two (of the few available) SO-239 crimp connectors available that I am looking at are the Lands Precision crimps at GigaParts, and the MOOKEERF on Amazon.
HI Dave . Just subscribed and I must say I do like your shows great for new hams or hams returning to the hobby . How about doing a show,if you have time, on all the different types of coax cable and what is the best type for different set ups and why is there so many types and why. anyway just a thought 73 David M6DFL
Wondering why you didn’t load test it with a 50 ohm load using an antenna analyzer for swr & impedance...just in case there was something amiss in the length of the coax? I recently learn my lesson on old coax that when swept with a analyzer the reading looked like ocen waves in a storm. The new coax was flat across the board for swr & impedance.
Just inspected some old RG-8/U I crimped with this same crimping kit back in 2010. The coax was outdoors for a few years, then stored for 10 years. The crimps were loose enough that I could slide them fairly easily, and the cable jacket had pulled completely out of one end. How has your experience been? 73 DE NØIP
Great video. One question: What part of the metal ring do you crimp, closer to the connector head or over the coax' black jacket? It looks like you crimped closer to the head.
There is a new variant of the crimp on the PL-259 connector for RX-8X Coax. It's referred to as a crimp/crimp connector Sold by Quicksilver Radio. Does anyone know how to measure and crimp the center connector pole? The Quicksilver Radio kit is great. The problem is it doesn't address this type of connector. P.S. I haven't found a youtube video about this either Thanks Jeff
Hello Dave, this is kind of «off-topic», sorry for that but here I go: I have 100 ft. of Belden 9913, which inner conductor is a #10 AWG. Is there any technique or procedure to solder PL-259 connector at the ends? Thanks in advance. 73 de OA4CKN.
Yes, as near as I can tell, Belden 9913 is the same as RG-8. Crimp connectors are readily available. The kind I use, as you saw, requires soldering the center conductor.
Is it safe to use a linear with the crimp connectors? I've read that if the connectors aren't soldered, damage to the linear's pills can occur. I will be using it for CB application.
I don't know where you read that idea but you should probably stop reading radio tips from there. I have no idea how such a thing got advised but it is absurd. **Properly installed** crimped connections pose no more danger to your system than any other properly installed connection. I know there are rumours about unsoldered shielding being unable to take the heat and power of a 'linear' but it's just a myth, like so much of what gets passed around as radio advice in the CB world. Hams have plenty of their own silly myths too... but the almost mystical reverence of anything having to do with 'linears' and their 'pills' is essentially a CB thing, from the allure of forbidden fruit, the illegal, maverick stuff. Hams legally use amplifiers and so there is a lot less shock and awe and mystique about it for them.
@Dave - Nooooo..... I found it hilarious! But there were sooo many jokes that could have come from here and none of the jokes would be appropriate to share in mixed company.
I was bumbling around at work trying to repair a radio antenna connection. I had a general idea of how it worked from watching the guys around me, but when I finished the radio kept shorting out. Long story short, one of the guys explained what I was doing wrong so I went and looked up a couple of videos but this was the first one that I found that actually shows how to test the cables!
Before I cut the cable, I put a length of shrink tubing on the coax, then the sleeve, make the cut and crimp. I then slide the shrink tube over the crimp and shrink it down making a moisture proof cover. Your video is a great primer for anyone who needs to make cable assemblies. It was good to see you doing the continuity test as well ...
Thank you Sir. I know most people who do HAM got this but it is so nice to have the resources and your experience available!
nothing like a good squeeze by a capable lady. I like to double heat shrink the cable to the furrell back up the cable at least 6 inches. It acts as water seal and more important it is a strain relief to the connector. The heavy cable tends to pull too hard on the connector if you don't provide some sort of cable guide or strain relief. Try it you will like it.
Good idea.
Wilson, the software you mention is one of many that does antenna analysis. I don't know any of them, but plan to learn one of the most popular, EZNEC. I have a tutorial book and it will be the subject of videos in the future.
Each end should be tested before going to the other end. That way you know which one has got messed up if you find you are shorted. Gets to be a real pain when you have a long piece of coax that you have to figure out where a short is once their are installed. Terry
I've recently changed to the crimp-type connectors and love them. But, I always tin the center conductor before installation. May be my OCD, I dunno. I also use a couple of inches of heat shrink tube over the feral to seal out weather and act as a strain relief.
After a 35-year detour, I am returning to Amateur Radio. Your posts have been central to my "re-education," David. My mistake might be a topic for a future post on the LACK of use of electronic equipment. I purchased a Yaesu 757 GX new in 1986 - then my Marine Corps career got in the way of amateur radio. I was confident this year of putting the rig back into use because, after all, it had sat idle in my den. An RF engineer and Ham - Bill Grassa - N4ATS, diagnosed the rig as having no ROM, few working capacitors and corroded battery. Another repair shop explained:
The typical service life of the early solid state transceivers runs
approximately 15 years, then various problems crop up. For equipment that has
seen little use (low operating time) the most common failure is the aluminum
electrolytic capacitors, which tend to fail in long term storage. And there are
hundreds of these types of capacitors in the average 100 watt transceiver.
Another concern is the aging memory back- up battery in the 757, which is known
to leak corrosive electrolyte and eat away at other components etc., if it has
not been replaced every ten years.
73, Chip Lohman, NN4U
My Yaesu 747 undoubtedly falls into the same category. It's been sitting in a box for ages.
gave a "like" because I, like you, have made a detour from ham radio for about 35 years in ur time frame. So videos like this are very useful to me as well.
The 2 blade stripping tool cuts the dielectric flush with the braid. However those connectors have a short length of travel internally where the braid crimp ends and the connector dielectric begins. This means you have bare stripped center conductor within that connector for a few millimeters before it reaches the connector's teflon insulator. During that short length- the only dielectric between the center conductor and PL body is air.
The 3 blade stripping tool leaves some dielectric protruding beyond the braid before coming down to bare center conductor. This short length of dielectric fills that gap within the PL body and butts up against the connector's own dielectric. This maintains a more consistent impedance throughout.
"During that short length- the only dielectric between the center conductor and PL body is air" ..yeah, air at best, and given that the knurled barrel did not slide under the outer insulation as it should, you may find rain water gets in and acts as a dialectric too. I ALWAYS make sure that the knurled section enters under the outer insulation. Yes, it makes it harder for the collar to be advanced, but when it does, and it's crimped, that end is MUCH more water resistant.
The lengths printed on cable can be used to measure easily how much cable you need as the printed measurements increase or decrease depending on which way you go. Saves measuring by other means.
I may have to buy one of those crimpers since it will also do Andersons. Thanks, Dave!
Crimping RF connectors is the way to go... Just give it a manly squeeze... Thanks for sharing !
Thanks for the demonstration. I just did my first crimp-connected PL-259 and it worked out just fine.
Dave, the length of the cable printed on the cable helps determine the length when cutting off the main spool... it should be a different amount every foot of cable. KN4OTY 73
Thanks for the info!
Good video. I would suggest tinning the center conductor before pushing it through the connector.. makes life easier.
"pull the whole thing off" .. that was my problem. I was removing the coax from the stripper and manually pulling the sections loose. Thanks AGAIN Dave. :D
I have never used crimp on connectors but by your demonstration it looks a lot easier so I may just take it up thanks for the video .
Whew!!!
So glad the kit came with a "big hairy" cutter and not a "big hairy" stripper.....that might be a little awkward when it came time for the "manly squeeze".
Daad gummit Dave, your shack is SOOOO clean and organized ... mine is a disaster area most times ... great video brother thank you very much. 73 de AD7VV
Dave,
Good video and the closeups were in focus. I flow some solder on the end of the wire to keep them together before cutting off the excess. 73 WB3BJU
Good idea
Radio shack also sold a version of these which I have used. The cartridges in the Radio shack versions are glass and any arcing leaves a mark on the glass. You can buy the little glass cartridges on ebay... {I think that is where I got them}.... for static charges from lightning.... I have just disconnected all MY antennas as We have a big storm with lightning over head at the moment. when I had an 80m loop antenna about 30 feet high, When there was lightning about I would disconnect the pl-259 and sit it near something earthed/grounded, and You could hear the arcing.... My loop was made from enamel covered wire then pvc covered wire.... I have also had a direct lightning strike which melted part of the N connectors I was using at the time....it also burnt out part of the braid of My RG-213 cable ..... and melted baluns on My antennas etc... also burnt out My rotator.... all replaced by Insurance company.... but I still like to disconnect My radios when I am not home.... VK2LEE LEE
"Plenty of women that can squeeze that tool just fine..." I bet you're right! lol
The QS crimp/crimp pl259s for all cable sizes are awesome
few notes:
- don't ever use the stripper tool to pull off the coax ends. it might not have cut all the way through and/or might not be adjusted correctly
- you will most likely have to adjust the coax stripper, strip a SMALL length first to make sure you don't nick the center conductor or the shielding
- when testing continuity its fine to touch one probe with your skin, but touching two might cause you to read continuity when there isn't any
Thanks for the tips.
Suggest you check for a short after connector number 1. If there's a short after connector number 2, you don't know which connector to redo.
Otherwise, worth viewing.
Good point!
Nice Dave . . need to get one of those crimping devices. Standing by for the MFJ-1788 debut. Bob N7ISU '73
Very informative, thank you
The cable night be RoHS compliant, but the tin/lead solder certainly isn't. 'Lead free' solder requires higher temperature to flow, but otherwise is the same as soldering with lead.
Raise a toast to the "Manly squeeze"
Add a manly amount of solder. And pull the insulation off with a manly tug 😁😄😀
i know that taste its solder with resin cooked to perfection, great to get a sour raspy voice.. its why i use a extractor now days
'give your tool a manly squeeze' - i asked my wife and she slapped me.
🤣
Thanks!
Great Video, Thanks for sharing!
Can you show how to add an SO-239 crimped connector to a piece of coax cable? For example if you wanted to make a removable choke that could be added to or removed from either end of that antenna run (without using a barrel connector) then you might make a choke using a 5 foot piece of coax wound 11 times thru a ferrite core with an SO-239 connector on one end and a PL-259 connector on the other end. (There are lots of videos showing how to add PL-259 connectors, but very few videos show how to add SO-239 connectors.) Two (of the few available) SO-239 crimp connectors available that I am looking at are the Lands Precision crimps at GigaParts, and the MOOKEERF on Amazon.
For best results wear wolf tshirt. 👍
What no shrink-to-fit tubing?? I am astonished at this. You would ever... Good instructional video just the same.
Thanks
HI Dave . Just subscribed and I must say I do like your shows great for new hams or hams returning to the hobby .
How about doing a show,if you have time, on all the different types of coax cable and what is the best type for different set ups and why is there so many types and why.
anyway just a thought
73
David M6DFL
David, thanks for the suggestion. I've added it to the topic list for future videos. 73
Wondering why you didn’t load test it with a 50 ohm load using an antenna analyzer for swr & impedance...just in case there was something amiss in the length of the coax? I recently learn my lesson on old coax that when swept with a analyzer the reading looked like ocen waves in a storm. The new coax was flat across the board for swr & impedance.
Thanks for this!
Would you advise eye protection when cutting "little pieces of copper" and solder?
Yes
Just inspected some old RG-8/U I crimped with this same crimping kit back in 2010. The coax was outdoors for a few years, then stored for 10 years. The crimps were loose enough that I could slide them fairly easily, and the cable jacket had pulled completely out of one end. How has your experience been? 73 DE NØIP
Another great video!
Great video. Thanks!
Muy buena explicación, muy claro.
awesome Dave .. 73's
But why not solder the braid all the same before crimping? Thanks John
Great video. One question: What part of the metal ring do you crimp, closer to the connector head or over the coax' black jacket? It looks like you crimped closer to the head.
Closer to the head is correct.
What kind of solder would you recommend? Thanks for all your videos, Dave. Dave, W7DEG.
If you can still find some, resin-cored lead solder is the best. Just don't breath the fumes in..
There is a new variant of the crimp on the PL-259 connector for RX-8X Coax. It's referred to as a crimp/crimp connector Sold by Quicksilver Radio. Does anyone know how to measure and crimp the center connector pole? The Quicksilver Radio kit is great. The problem is it doesn't address this type of connector. P.S. I haven't found a youtube video about this either Thanks Jeff
Thanks for the lead to Quicksilver Radio. I'd never heard of them. They seem like a stand up outfit. 73 N7JSX
Hi Dave! Whats your favorite SO 239 Female connector?
Good solder job??
Nice
Is there any difference between using the crimp-solder connections like you use and the crimp-crimp pl-259 connectors?
Not really. I think the double crimo type are more expensive.
Thank you sir! KI5CYJ. 73
Hello Dave, this is kind of «off-topic», sorry for that but here I go: I have 100 ft. of Belden 9913, which inner conductor is a #10 AWG. Is there any technique or procedure to solder PL-259 connector at the ends? Thanks in advance. 73 de OA4CKN.
Yes, as near as I can tell, Belden 9913 is the same as RG-8. Crimp connectors are readily available. The kind I use, as you saw, requires soldering the center conductor.
Dave I have the crimper for Anderson power pole, can u get dies for this tool to crimp the
pl259 connectors u just demonstrated ..
You can for most models. I have.
No shrink tubing, OK thank you
Women say “I can squeeze that tool just fine!” 🤔😳
No heat shrink...
Is it safe to use a linear with the crimp connectors? I've read that if the connectors aren't soldered, damage to the linear's pills can occur. I will be using it for CB application.
I don't know where you read that idea but you should probably stop reading radio tips from there. I have no idea how such a thing got advised but it is absurd. **Properly installed** crimped connections pose no more danger to your system than any other properly installed connection. I know there are rumours about unsoldered shielding being unable to take the heat and power of a 'linear' but it's just a myth, like so much of what gets passed around as radio advice in the CB world. Hams have plenty of their own silly myths too... but the almost mystical reverence of anything having to do with 'linears' and their 'pills' is essentially a CB thing, from the allure of forbidden fruit, the illegal, maverick stuff. Hams legally use amplifiers and so there is a lot less shock and awe and mystique about it for them.
1:43 ==> Soooo many jokes. None appropriate though.
I called out the sexism in the instructions and made fun of it. Sorry you found it inappropriate.
@Dave - Nooooo..... I found it hilarious! But there were sooo many jokes that could have come from here and none of the jokes would be appropriate to share in mixed company.
I'd use a little flux
I don't use solder that doesn't come with some inside.
Who sells that crimp kit?
Quick Silver Radio: www.qsradio.com
@@davecasler Many thanks kit ordered
@@davecasler Thanks for link...had what I need when I need it!
Thank you, David. But a commercial 19 seconds into the video?
Would a woman even have the knowledge to do it in the first place? (Addendum..of course she would, LoL)
Thank you, Dave.
Appreciate the humor.
A good and quick review. N0QFT
Thanks!
Thank you for your financial support of this channel! It is greatly appreciated! 73, Dave, KE0OG.