LMR-400 Coax Cable and Connector (#72)
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- čas přidán 14. 06. 2017
- I'm new to Times Microwave LMR-400 coax cable, often considered the best in ham radio (and rather expensive). I purchased 500 feet for future antenna projects. Learn with me as I attach a PL-259 connector! Subscribe: / @davecasler Ask Dave Playlist: goo.gl/inaQeB. Tip Jar: ke0og.net/tip-jar
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A cellphone company installed indoor antennas where I worked. They brought in a 1,000 foot spool of Times Microwave LMR400, used about 700 feet of it, then tossed the spool with about 300 feet of coax into the dumpster. With a scrap removal permit and some help from one of the millwrights the spool was fished out and went home with me. Free is a very good price.
Dave,
We build about 10,000 Times Jumpers and Antenna Cables each month :) You are correct in that Times makes the best coax out there for low loss applications. Some other points in your video need a little clarification.
LMR-195 is used by Hams, a lot of them. We build a ton of jumpers with it as it is the same size as RG-58 with less than 1/2 the loss at HF frequencies. This is a good combination. :)
LMR-240 is very popular as it has the loss of RG-8 and is the same size as RG-8x
LMR-400 is the most popular. You can bend it 90 Degrees in 1 Inch during install without attenuation. Yes it has a foam dielectric but the center conductor in Times coax will not migrate. You don't have to worry about that. We have a 10 Year Warranty on our cables and have never had one returned for that issue.
The tool set you have is OK for most cables and the smaller LMR types but if you are going to do a lot of cables you need a better set of crimpers and absolutely a better cutter for LMR-400. The cutter you have is too small and flattens the coax making it much harder to strip. To strip the cable your stripper is OK but you need a set of Linemans Pliers with the Flat tip in both large and small sizes.
After stripping grip the first section with your pliers and Twist. It will pop lose and slide right off. For the others use the flat face of the pliers from the Side and Pinch the cable and Twist to break it lose. You Do Not need any cutting implements.
The solid center conductor needs to be much hotter and you should flow the solder down the PL-259. This will give you rock solid connection.
We build LMR assemblies up to LMR-1200 :) THAT is big.
We sell Reels of LMR through Amazon for less than you paid. You can also buy our complete assemblies through Amazon, Walmart and design your own with Any Length and Any Connectors at USACoax.com
Thank you for the excellent tips! I'll get myself some lineman's pliers
I bought a 20 ft LMR-240 assembly with PL259 ends from MPD digital. I was impressed with the quality. Michael from KB9VBR J-pole antennas sent me to MPD Digital.
I've purchased 3ft 400 series ultraflex jumpers from MPD, and MPD will be seeing return business from me! Great work. Great jumpers. Great assemblies. Thanks MPD Digital/USA Coax. 1Crazynordlander, I've bought KB9VBR antennas also. Lol. 460mhz slim jim works real well.
What is the model of the crumpet tool and does it come in a set?
I have an LMR-400 jumper from you guys, very happy with it. But I think ill be investing in the tools to make my own since I need to many different lengths and am impatient. LOL
I love that you show the frustration, rather than editing it all out. We're all only human! :)
Thanks Dave for taking the time to make such helpful/visual videos! You are a GREAT Elmer!! 73
I have 300 feet of LMR-600 in my shed. I am feeding a HF vertical in the yard with 100 feet of LMR-600. I love this stuff.
Great job once again Dave. I was happy to see that I am not the only one who has had trouble getting LMR400 stripped and ready for connector installation. Good grief it can be frustrating.
just what I was looking for great info as usual
Subscribed after watching this video...have watched 12-15 of your other videos, but hadn't subscribed...subscribed to your channel after watching this one for two reasons:
1) You come across in all the videos as regular every-day sort of guy, someone who does not try to impress viewers with your knowledge by using a lot of jargon that new-comers would be unfamiliar with. But yet you ARE very, very knowledgeable and I for one am very thankful I found your channel, as I have no 'elmer' in my area to deal with directly.
2)Second reason, and probably corny reason to subscribe to someone's channel -- but I have the EXACT same tool set/kit as you showed, and I bought a cpl. hundred feet of LMR-400 when building my station for first time in 2012/13, and I also had issues working with it (because I didn't know what the hell I was doing as brand-new-to-HAM Tech Lic. holder), but when I saw that you had a few issues working with it, and that you did not edit out that sort of stuff and try to portray yourself as some "know-it-all" prima donna as too many on youtube do I subscribed.
Been off the air for 3-4 years (had to put everything in storage) and am trying to get the station back on-air now...found your channel last week, and started watching your videos (jumping from one subject to another, and in no particular order), and want to say: Thank you, thank you, thank you for putting the time and effort you do into making these videos. Trying to educate myself properly about HAM-Radio this time around, which I did not do in 2012/13, and your videos have been a tremendous help.
Do other viewers care about what I think, and the fact that I subscribed and why...most likely not. I'm commenting on a video that's over a year old, so don't know if anyone will even read this...but I wanted to say thank you...and that you are appreciated, probably by many more than you realize...because I have, as I have gotten older, come to realize that many, many people who benefit from videos such as these never take the time to 'like' the video or subscribe to the channel.
I'm rambling (old guy syndrome) -- so I will shut up, and say THANK YOU one more time, and back to watching more videos.
Raymond - WF7BSR
Thank you for your kind words. I'm glad you chose to subscribe.
Well done Dave , as always very interesting, many thank, regards from the UK
Very detailed video. AND LOVE THE HONESTY AT THE END.
Sir; your videos that I have watch are excellent and professional in their presentation. As a retired teacher you have been just great in these teaching videos. I, as an amateur radio operator, am very impressed with your videos. Thank you much; WB8BRA.
Thank you.
Thanks Dave! Great work.
Great video! I've been looking for easy directions on how to crimp connectors to LMR-400. That looks like a nice kit.
It is. But I just received some new stuff from times microwave. I'll do a video soon.
Thank you, Dave. I look forward to the terminating part 2. 73 KI6GZK Don La Mesa, CA
Another great video Dave, keep up the good work. Good lick on the antenna install.73!
Enjoyed the video. Good luck with putting up the antenna tomorrow!
73's PA0020SWL (and hopefully PD-something véry soon)
This is great video...& how many I screwed up...stopped counting 20 years ago🤣 BTW...@ 25:37 set play-back to 0.25 slows Dave down a bit 👍
As a new ham Quick Silver has been the best Ham radio outlet I have found.
I use LMR-600 and putting connectors on that coax is an absolute dream. I do use the proper tools for prepping and crimping the connectors. Not sure how expensive the PL-259 connectors for LMR-400 are but for LMR-600 they are almost $9 each.
I buy the off brand LMR-400 copy and have never had a problem with it. I just screw on the PL-259 but it is a tight fit. L leave the brade on the side and twist the connector on over it then trim off the excess. I then trim and solder the center conductor. I normally can get a 500 root roll for around 250-275$. The locals buy it off me because there is no place local we can buy it.
I used to love the old 9913 but I have not seen than in years. Nice video.......
Thank you, Dave, for another good video. I would say great but the part I need to see/learn/know is the part you fast forwarded through. I get why you did it, but those of us who have limited coax experience or are new to the radio hobby have to see each individual step. Ok, vent over! :)
Thanks for the topic suggestion. I can make a video that shows the step-by-step process.
We're glad you used crimp connectors David; LMR-400 and its variants are far too easy to damage with soldering - the foamed dielectric isn't suited to high temperatures.
Amphenol make some lovely crimp centre pin connectors for use with LMR series :)
another great video Dave. and another great subject. cheers John vk2foad
Hi Dave,
Informative video on the specs. Thank you! I've been using LMR-400 and found it a bit of a bear to work with at first but did get it down to something I feel is manageable.
One quick note, when I solder the center conductor I find that there is sticky rosin left over. I'm not a great solder guy. BUT, a little acetone does magic cleaning up the connector and gets it ready for insertion into an SO-239 connector very well. This last bit of touch up seems to keep the connectors from sticking together unnecessarily and probably prevents signal loss. Just my humble experience.
I really appreciate your videos!
73!
Thanks for the tip!
I've been using clamp-type connectors with DXE-400MAX cable. These connectors would likely also work with LMR-400. No crimp tool required for assembly, just a pair of wrenches.
Your video intros remind me of the the Learning Channel TV show "Home Improvement" in the 1990's! 😄
LMR195 is a great alt to RG-174, with much better shielding and power handling. I've used it in baluns - very flexible and easy to work with.
Love that music Dave!! Lol!
Got it from the CZcams Audio Library.
Some funny moments in that one Dave! Great videos as always sir. Not to one up you or anything, but I'm running Andrew Heliax 5/8" to my Elk dual band Log periodic and also to my Comet GP-15. They're both about 45' runs so very little loss and good swr. Matt / KF4ULD
Nice job. I'm have to use LRM 400UF for my 23cm installation. 73 Richard VK2BD
hey, dave.Thanks for a wonderful detailed video, certainly it is helpful for me. maybe you will think it's so strange,but why not to try?
Dave, love your videos, thanks so much for making learning easy . . . EXCEPT in this video. I’m new to coax and the parts about cutting/trimming/connector placement are the parts you zipped through so I missed the important details of “how to.” Any chance you can put those parts of the video back in? . . . please :)
There's a video on coax connectors coming up.
Luvs to ya Dave. Always My go-to guy. Km4Vgo. 73. Yes, i remembered to hit the like button.
Hey Dave love your videos and your honesty. Also as a clock guy wanted to thank you for having yours running.👍👍Oh and grads on your solo. Was that a rans?
Just my personal preference, but I slide a piece of marine grade heat shrink about 2 inches long over the crimp to provide strain relief where the braid enters the crimp sleeve. Marine grade tubing has hot glue inside and really grips and seals the connection.
Picked up one of the kits as well. I like how versatile it is. So far I'm a little disappointed in the rotating cutter. For brand new, the braid cutter blade seems to tear it up a bit as opposed to just cutting it. Not the clean cut you obtained in the video. I may try it a few more times with adjusting it, but as you said. Limited tries at such a price for the lmr400. The large cutter doesn't cut through the lmr400 cleanly either. Kind of smashes it and then leaves the braid wire frayed on the far end. I may look some cable cutting scizzors. But for the price of the kit, I wish these aspects were a bit better quality. It's a better price and more options than what dx engineering had though. Thanks for the tip.
Hello Dave, learn a lot from your videos, Thank You... Question, I have 100ft LMR-400, now I am changing antenna and need to put it out further in the yard, I am short on the LMR-400. Can I add a length, 50 ft, to add too or do I need to buy a longer cable? (150 ft is needed). Thanks again...
What exactly were you doing with the wire size guide? It looked like all that needed to be done was to cut the wire off? (Or was that just so that you knew the correct center wire gauge to put in the video?)
Plenum rated cables sre also required by (urban, etc.) fire codes. In NYC it is required for all wiring inside shaftways, walls, ducts, all of the closed places where we sneak cable runs. They also produce less smoke when they do combust.
The melting plastic also produces toxic fumes.
I'm not sure if the plenum-rated cable produces less toxic fumes, or if it simply produces less (toxic) fumes because there is less smoke coming from it. But that's also part of the reason plenum-rated cable is required, less toxic fumes.
You should use Amphenol connectors when using LMR cables. They make it not necessary to strip the shielding allowing it to properly ground and keeping the low loss and noise quality of the LMR cables intact. :)
73
AE0HF
Thanks for the tip.
I guess if I were concerned about transmitting with a lot of power, LMR-400 would be the way to go.
Given my QTH, power levels, and local QRM, I'm planning on upgrading to double shielded RG-400.
73
Now this is interesting. The Times-micro LMR400 I’ve been using has a full copper twisted inner conductor and is not quite as stiff. On pl259 i lightly tin the inner tip of the center conductor and tin the coax “stinger” before inserting. Solders much faster without too much heat to the coax and foam, although I read someplace that the foam on TM LMR400 is more heat resistant.
There are several flavors of LMR400, including more flexible versions. Pre-tinning is a good idea.
Looking for coax tools and came across the reviews on Amazon for the Times Microwave crimp and setup tools. The the stripper tool is made specifically for the Times Microwave brand connectors unfortunately. And at $100 for just the crimp tool , I’ll have to look elsewhere for tools that work with more common easy to find connectiors.
Yeah, the Times Microwave stuff is expensive.
Thank you again Dave. I have been searching around for tools to work with some direct bury LMR400 I bought and could not find a good source for the crimping and stripping tools. Your suggestion if the QSRadiio kit helped a lot, and I just ordered one. It is some stiff coax for sure!
If you want to pay for premium stuff, you can get LMR-400-specific crimp connectors and tools directly from Times Microwave. Not cheap.
@@davecasler Thanks. I see my kit just arrived from QSRadio today. I sure hope the $8 a piece Amphenol crimp ons work that I bought. Will give it a go.
Forgot to add - for a great cable cutter go to Ace hardware and look for an Ace brand cutter tool we use here in the shop. They are around $10 and we cut well over a million feet of coax up to LMR-600 with ours before they fail. You can also get your Linemans pliers at any Ace. One set lasts forever.
POWER HANDLING - LMR-400 WILL NOT handle Legal Limit Power above 2 Meters. This is what differentiates the LMR coax from RG-8 and RG-213. We have had folks use too much power and Melt the Dielectric. If you are going to run excess power don't use LMR.
Thanks,
Ray N1MPD
Thanks for the tips!
Think it’s that bad below 50Mhz ?
perhaps RFS Heliflex cable - 7/8" handles 15 kw - if memory serves. www2.rfsworld.com/RFS_Edition4/pdfs/Cable_Intro_23-29.pdf
Will be commenting as I go through the show as I do not have a good memory of what i watch. First off, great choice in coax and thank you for the video. In the first part showing the coax center is silvery. I think most places are going to aluminum for the center with a copper coating. Aluminum is much cheaper but I will say that aluminum is the next best choice. Now everyone remember that RF travels on the outside of the wire so please don't get upset at aluminum as the copper part is where most of the RF will be. Will comment after watching more. 73, ad0am
Now the foilf inside i believe is also aluminum foil. Just to ass a helpful hint here. The foilf is actually the shield. I know alot of us are use to caling the braided part the shield but technically that is wrong. the shield is supposed to keep the center conductor and the outside braid from radiating with each other and ruining your setup.
I am now 5 min into the video. I would solder the connector no matter what. The reason why is the fact that hanging from your antenna, the crimp part could let o and all that would be holding the coax in would be......nothing. with soldering, at least it would stay in place. That is my thought but I still alwasy solder when I can. Was not much on crim connectors but this one might be promising.
I will add here at about the mid point of the video. I use DXE 400MAX which is DX Enginnering's coax which is very similar to LMR-400. If my memory serves me correct, it is 11 cents cheaper per foor than LMR-400. Just wanted to thow that out there.
At 19:50 you talk about the loss. Just to remind the viewers, you are showing per 100ft. So if you are less, you will have to say less loss and more than 100ft, add loss. But it is fractional. ie. if your are using 25t, the loss is only about 1/4 and if you are using 125ft the loss is 1.25 times that. Hope I explained that well enough so those can understand what loss is and not to treat every coax at 100ft as yours might not be that length.
You got the LMR400 for $1.10 per ft. I can get the UV protected one from DX Engineering for $1.09 per ft. Don't think you really saved anything using the club discounted price. Just want to show that.
www.dxengineering.com/search/department/cable-and-connectors/part-type/coaxial-cable-bulk/product-line/times-microwave-bulk-coaxial-cables?N=4294953052%2B4294951385&page=1
here is LMR400 from DX Engineering and any order over $100 is free shipping. Just again wanted to point pricing out. You could also save a little bit more and get the DXE400MAX like i did and have similiar results.
If you think yours was bad. I considered stomping mine. Lol! I passed my tech license test, I'm just waiting on my call sign. Maybe I'll have the ends put on by then. Lol! Thanks for the video.
Congrats on your new ham license and welcome to the hobby!
If you make a dipole and then use two coaxial lines one from each side of the dipole would you get less loss vs one coax line to the dipole.
Thanks Dave, always enjoy your videos. What tool was that little spinner device you were using for the 3 cuts and where might I get one? 73 John WA5ZVE
I got the smaller one in his kit, worked amazing for rg8x www.amazon.com/dp/B01B1NVUYE
Are you going to make another video and show us how to install a crimp connector on LMR-400? I need to do some and am a little timid to try, after seeing your problems with it. I did buy the QSRadio crimp kit and just installed a PL259 on an RG8X coax using their stripping tool, had to move one of the blades first, and the crimping tool worked great.. Your video #62 was very helpful.
I have done two videos. One is putting a "standard" crimp conductor on LMR-400 (very frustrating) and another putting on the special Times Microwave crimp connector on some LMR-400 (vastly easier!), though it takes a special connector and a special tool from Times Microwave. Search for these videos on my channel by looking for LMR-400.
@@davecasler Thanks for your reply. I watched the other video. I found problems getting the QCRadio stripping tool (3 cut tool) adjusted correctly for blade depth. Using RG8 cable I found that the stripping tool was stripping too deep into the stranded copper center conductor. Took several tries adjusting with the Allen wrench before I finally got it to strip correctly. The cable jacket is pretty hard and difficult to cut through. I suspect you had trouble stripping the cable, as crimping is pretty easy, once the cable is prepared.. I watched your other video using the Times Micro tool set. Only problem is their tool is very expensive, some say around $400, and I already bought the QCRadio tools. Crimping is still better that soldering the braid. Have you tried again with QSRadio tools? Sure enjoy your videos. Most helpful!
@@Veetheoneandonly I've been hoarding my few LMR-400 connectors for special occasions.
I bought a Eton Satellite Radio and I don't have the 50 ohm BNC Panel Mount Socket - and wondering what type of cable to connect it to do I need. LMR 400 or is there one that is already put together so that I don't have to do all the manual work. Direct to a link or webpage of where I can by one. I am trying to connect to an antenna. Thank you. milo
Dave, I think on those kinds of connectors, they come with a little sleeve. You want to slide that on the wire *before* you start to cut it. Later it'll be there when you're ready to crimp.
Indeed you are correct. I am always forgetting to put it on first.
There is a similar step to putting on the ends on metal brake lines. You do NOT want to skip that step. It will ruin your whole day. :-D
Yeah...the nominal/minimum bend radius of that cable is published by the manufacturer. Im guessing its somewhere around 12 inches.
for anything tighter, you need a 90° connector which will cause rf power reflextion if not installed perfectly
The bend radius for Times Microwave LMR-400 is four inches. That’s 8 inches diameter.
you are RF Ninja !
David, I bought the DX Engineering Coax Cable Stripper. just spin it around a couple times and all clear, no fighting removing the little pieces of jacket. PN DXE-UT-8213. They have an 8x version as well but it doesnt seem to work as well (or at least I cant get it to)
Thank you for the link - very much!
You prefer a crimp to a standard screw-on PL259 the way DX engineering does it?
Hello Dave,
Thanks for all you do.
Question. I am putting up a 2 meter yagi on a 20 foot pole about 50 feet from my shack, using LMR400.
Soil here is extremely rocky. I can’t bury the coax, leaving me two choices... either lay it on the ground inside schedule 40 PVC or hang it from a parachute cord line anchored at both ends.
1. Any special considerations I should consider?
2. Given that the LMR400 is such a bear to work with, is there a satisfactory alternative in my application?
Thanks, Dave
Take a look at RG-213. It's much easier to work with. I'll admit all my coax cable is laying on the ground out back.
Hello Dave,
Can clear something for me.
LM400 seems to be the best coax cable overall, but about only for RX is there a better alternative considering no power is put on the cable.
Something not for a fix instalation, only for 400Mhz to 900Mhz
Thanks
I was thinking about using lmr 400 in my mobile what's your opinions on using it in a mobile setup
I wish I had a dollar for every one of these that iv'e screwed up,lol.
LMR195 is VERY good for mobile installations where it is not bending repeatedly, as at short mobile runs, the loss is far less the typical RG 58a/u. RG58a/u at 150 has 5.604 loss and LMR195 at 150 has 4.4 at 100ft. So a 12 ft run of LMR195 the loss would be .5db. It’s an entirely different story for HF and longer runs, where LMR 400 or 600 are King.
Hi Dave I got a problem and I need your help KG5CUO is my callsign.
Ok I replaced my RG8 coax with a ferrite bead on each end of it with some LMR 400 I did not have problems until it rained or did not notice it to be honest. I started noticing when i use my manual tuner a MFJ-969 I can get the swr flat 1.0 witch is fantastic as you know for the standing wave. So i started to notice it going down but if i held it down for 10 seconds or so it would start to build up RF coming back into the line I notice this when the standing wave began to rise slowly upward and did not stop. So a bead is to small for this coax and i need a way to stop this when i put it back to 10 watts it does not happen when i rise above 25- 30 watts I get these reflections back on 10 meters. I am using a IC 7300 mosfet so you know like i do they do not like high standing waves. So the question is because of the beads being to small what is another way i can solve this issue? a ring maybe wrapping it 10 times? I don't know I Waite for your reply as soon as you can KG5CUO - JOHN 73
There is a variant of the LMR-400 called UltraFlex that uses stranded inner conductor. You should give that a try. I use DXE-400MAX from DX engineering for long runs because it is direct burial rated and a little cheaper. But for short runs I still prefer RG-8X or LMR-240 UltraFlex.
Thanks for the information.
That’s what I have and the crimp connectors will not work. Strand is too thick to fit the connector.
Is the KMR400 Ultra Flex Cable just as thick as that LMR400 Cable?
I worked with different types of wires before I had to retire because of my back. Plenum cables must be used in all buildings that the wires are run in drop ceiling if it is used for return air. You could run in heating vents but don't know why, I never did. But for the most part wires must be in conduit or Plenum. Plenum wire does give off deadly gases when heated to a very high temperature, I forgot what that temperature is but remember that if the wires get that hot there is a Very big hot fire in the building and I don't think there will be anyone alive for the gases given off to bother. It it part of the fire safety code. And anyone that knows the newer code it changes from year to year I have not worked Fire safety, and alarms for some years, and I may not remember all the rules.
Why do you use crimp vs solder connectors? Lots of hams I talk to say soldering is the only way to go because crimps often fail...I have melted a variety of cables dielectric and insulation trying to solder on them and at this point I have decided commercial off the shelf is easier to get though I would be interested in more suggestions on how to get a good connector. I really wish there was something as fool proof as the TV compression fittings for this stuff.
Matthew Miller
get an inductive solderer
It's very difficult to solder LMR cable, due to the foam core. It can be very easy to get it too hot, breaking down the foam.
Is there any performance difference between LMR-400 and LMR-400 UltraFlex? Is there a downside to buying the UltraFlex version? Thanks, K5RHA
I think the performance is very similar.
Are they still open I work in Meriden
Heat the work...Heat the work...Heat the work....
Dave,
The part number in the LMR400 Times Microwave spec sheet you showed has a DB at the end for the cable with the water tight cover. Doesn't the "DB" stand for direct burial?
I bought some LMR400 coax from HRO manufactured by ABR Industries LLC. I got the LMR400 Ultraflex (stranded copper wire center). Their part number is 25400F-PL-125. It was 125 feet long with PL-259 connectors on each end. Their spec sheet says: Low Loss RF Cable, 10 ga Stranded Very Flexible Low Loss Cable, Non-contaminating UV Resistant, Direct Burial, Black PVC Jacket. It has .8db attenuation per 100 feet at 30 MHz/2.77KW/83% E. So this is another brand, but looks like about the same LMR400 specification as the Times Microwave LMR-400-DB. I bought 160 feet from HRO with PL259 connectors on each end for $149.95 plus sales tax, no shipping charge. I buried it in a trench about 100 feet long and so far it works fine.
So, after your frustration with installing the connectors using the QSRadio Crimp Tool, what do you recommend using for putting connectors on coax? I've had trouble soldering the shield to the connectors on the solder types. I've watched your video on coax connectors, but will watch it again. 73
Vee Butterfield W7IBB, Taylorsville, Utah. (Love your videos!)
LMR 400 flex now available
i need to run cable from attic to downstairs through wall and make a bend from wall to an outlet. what is best: bend cable, or maybe a 90 degree elbow connector, or maybe sacrifice db and use the more flexible LMR ??
LMR-400 can have a bend radius of just 4 inches or so. Try to avoid extra connectors in the line if you can.
could you show us a piece where the center conductor has migrated to the point that it now touches the shield?
It takes some months or even years for the migration to take place, so, no, I don’t have an example to show you. I’ll keep my eyes out for one.
Crimping is not soldering. I've seen copper braid, for example, or copper automotive wire corrode inside the shielding for feet. Once oxidation starts, it travels.
Solder is the only way to ensure 100% an infinite ohm
True. I prefer soldered connections myself. I started with crimped connections when I couldn't get a PL-259 onto RG-213. I've been less than impressed with the crimped connections I make. The LMR-400 specially-made connectors are pretty good, though.
I'm new to the Ham radio hobby and my frustrations are with trying to connect both N and PL259 type connectors to 400 MAX (DXE variety) cable. I thought this video would help but the most important part of the video near the end was taped Fast-forwarded which was equally frustrating for me. Can you please point me to another video of yours where you show step-by-step in slow motion/regular motion the 400 MAX/LMR400 process of attachment! Must appreciated.
I will before long. I received a kit from Times Microwave with their connectors, and I need to make a video about it.
@@davecasler Thank you David! I really find all you videos very helpful! Keep up the good work and let me know when you Times Microwave video goes live. I just bought the Times uW CST400 cable prep tool and I am loving it for N-type on 400Max.
I have ABR LMR-400 and it has a braided center. Got crimp connections from HRO. The hole is too small for the coax. No matter how well I turn the tip it’s a no go. Hoping the solder type connectors work. If not guess I’m buying another piece of coax already assembled. 😡
What was the mistake, and how to avoid mistakes?
what is the drill guide for? don't we already know the conductor size?
Just for illustration purposes.
Hi David, great video as always. I am a newbie and I purchased some LMR-400 a while back. Finally came to the point where I am installing a discone in the roof, it will be about 40feet above ground. A lot of people are saying that it is an over kill but I am ok with that. What might be the pros and cons of having an LMR-400 on a discone, also I have been told never to rely on crimp on connectors, I guess if properly done connection should be mechanically sound?
73
VA3LAM
Crimp-on connectors can be fine, but don't yank on them or pull them. LMR 400 will work fine with a discone.
Properly done crimp connectors can be very reliable, in fact they are used almost exclusively in transport aircraft avionics installations. There should not be any issues with using LMR400 with a discone antenna, the same frequency Vs length loss considerations apply for that kind of antenna as any other.
Do you happen to know the closest RG number for LMR 240. I am using LMR 240 for VHF operations and I would like to make my own lengths of it.
RG-8X
thank you so much for your help sir.
Pity you did not explain what brand the crimper was or why you chose it.
I'm a new ham and how well will this coax work on 2m, 70cm with a comet gp1 antenna using a 25w radio.
A) Never say "new ham".Just ask for clarification on whatever issue you would like an answer. When asked when you got your license say "I'm sure it was a while ago". Just because you are "new" doesnt mean you don't know anything. No one knows what you know or don't know.
B) Cable suitablity depends on length and frequency. If you are running around 100ft @ 70cm, you'll lose about half the power. Use LMR600 instead. It's ok to use a foot or two of RG58 to connect from the long wire to the HT or radio.
If your run is going to be 50ft or less LM400 will be OK, but still you'll lose more signal than with LMR 600. It's cable. LMR600 is about double the price of LMR400 but not too much over double the price. (I say this because usually when you ask for something specific that you want magically the price increases :) )
Finally , welcome, have fun and don't buy everything everyone recommends without you doing your own research, this post included. :)
David, did you purchase this directly from the manufacturer, or from a reseller? If it's the latter, can you offer any recommendations?
I got this from our local ham club, that keeps coax in stock for members who need it. I paid only what it cost the club. They got it from a two-way (business band) radio outfit in Grand Junction. But it's universally available.
How long should your jumper cables be??
I think you're referring to coax jumpers in the shack. Lengths are not critical.
INFORMATIVE VIDEO DAVE, NOW GO GET A STIFF DRINK TO SMOOTH OUT THE SHAKES..
Unfortunately the tremor is something I can't do anything about and will probably get worse with time. However, my wife has volunteered to do the handheld shooting chores.
Don't forget the rodent resistant covering. Lol
A high grade, high quality piece of coax and a CRAPPY PL-259 = a disappointing pile of frustration. I avoid those PL-259's all together. The first thing I do when I get a new or even old transceiver is remove the SO-239/PL-259'S and install "N" connectors that goes for the antenna and coax as well
Hey Dave, have you tried shakespeare-ce.com/marine/?s=PL-259-CP-G I've used them on my marine VHF antenna.
Maybe outlet was the wrong word...supplier od equipmentr...TY
LMR 400 is aluminum foil under tin plated copper braid. Galvanic corrosion is an issue. M&P ultraflex 13 beats LMR 400 hands down.
Do you build the top of your houses out of dogs? ruff ruff.
If others are interested, Altelix AX400, very similar specifications to LMR-400, a bit more affordable (~$250.00) www.altelix.com/400-Series-50-Ohm-Low-Loss-Coaxial-Cable-p/cbax400-500f.htm
Aloha!
I am a reaper owner and we use N connectors
The N connectors are slowly growing in popularity. In Europe they're very popular.
@@davecasler To my mind, they are superior in every way to PL-259, and I wish we would see N series a lot more on amateur radio gear.
@@TonyLing I know an electrical engineer who calls pl259 connectors shielded banana plugs, yes N connectors are definitely superior in terms of high frequency performance so I would like to see manufacturers use them for 50Mhz or higher. TNC connectors have the same electrical characteristics as N connectors but are a little less robust, so I would regard them as a good alternative.
Yeah sure you did. 😄
No, Dave. Copper clad aluminum wire is not used for strength. CCA has only become popular because it is cheaper than solid copper. It has lower carrying capacity so it can be dangerous to the unwary. LMR probably can get away with it because they are concerned with RF skin effect and DC ampacity is not their concern. I think LMR400 used to be a solid copper core.
Thanks for the info.
You mispronounced Quebec Sierra - Good video,
Should change the name of this video to “Dave Disappoints” was I the only Ham waiting for Dave to put on the connectors after the long winded talk about the coax? pretty much a waste of my time. Press the like button! I have done so on this channel many times, Sorry, not this time Dave
Sorry it was not to your satisfaction. However it did cause times microwave to send me a bunch of samples of their proprietary connectors along with her proprietary tool set. They were much better than the Generic connectors. 73 from Dave
any international resellers?
I don't know. I suspect so.
Okay I’m
n K! I really like the LMR400~