Honda VFR800 VTEC - Rear Hub, Strip & Assembly - Wheel & Sprocket Bearing Replacement
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Hello everyone and welcome back to the channel.
In this video I will be stripping the rear hub assembly from the bike and replacing all of the bearings and seals inside.
These hubs if neglected can and will seize into the swingarm making the simple task of chain adjustment incredibly difficult and invariably involves a strip of the hub anyway!
The parts that I used in my video are all genuine Honda items which I will link below, however nearly all of these bearings can be found for a much lower price at any bearing supplier.
The parts needed will be Item numbers 24, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34 (X2) and lastly number 35 all in the diagram at the link below.
www.fowlerspar...
If you are interested in getting yourself a 6 tonne press just like mine then the link to that is below.
ebay.us/vhXI3p
The bearing driver set that I also used is listed below. These are perfect for fitting oil seals as they assist in fitting them perfectly flat without any damage.
ebay.us/G3ozrk
All links to products are affiliate links for which I will receive a small commission on any purchase made, at no additional cost to you.
Anyway guys and girls, I hope that you enjoy this video and I will see you all in the next one!
If you wish to offer support to my channel and enable me to continue to bring you quality content then please check out my Patreon page at the following link - www.patreon.co... - Thank you.
Join me on the socials at the following links
Kevs Shed on Facebook - / 561477094498994
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My very sincere thanks for this - my son and tackled this job this past weekend on my 2004 VFR-A and your insight and tips were invaluable. Would not have thought to try to do this without this info, thanks!!
I’ve been hooked on your channel content! You got me out in the garage to put my 5th gen “Red Mist” back together! Maintenance items I never considered attacking by myself are now considerations. Cheers dude!
That is awesome!
Thanks for another great vid.
Tip from me to fit the hugger to the swingarm on the inside, instead of the pushpins.
I got rubbernuts (m5 or m6), a little longer ones (might need a little drilling). And a bolt to fit it.
Great tip!👌🤓
Rubbernuts? Are they the well nuts used on the fairing? That's an awesome tip that, bloody clips mine are all falling apart.
@@lmaoroflcopterYes, just a different size.
I can't thank you enough for this detailed explanation. You helped me immensely although I do have the Haynes manual. Nothing helps more than a visual guide. Cheers mate, greetings from Holland 👍
Another great video of a very important service job. Just a thought undoing the hub nut. Why not do it as the very first thing with the wheel still on, some one sitting on the bike and with pillion, in first gear with the rear brake and front brakes on? It would give up pretty easily then I would have thought with either a good breaker bar or impact driver. As I say just a thought. Might need to repeat when re-tightening the nut to the required torque.
That’s how I did it - son sat on the bike with both brakes and me on a 25” breaker bar...still wanted to move forward but a couple of nudges and it came loose. I had also un-spiked the nut as best I could beforehand...I expected a full notch cutout - it’s just an indent so you can’t properly pop the spike out.
Thanks for the video. Because Honda VFR 800 is a special motorcycle. I have one too. Mine is a 1999 model.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to put all of this excellent content together :)
Bugger that was tight ...You need a beer after that ...not a tea... 😂
I know right! 😂😂😂
several beers, including some for mates who can loan you a bearing press & HD torque wrench.
Thanks for this! Awesome vid.
And that is one epic lockdown beard! :)
Glad you like it! 😎👌
This was extremely helpful. I've been digging around online for ripping apart the rear on my 94 vfr750 which looks to be identical to the later 800 minus the extra stuff I don't have like ABS.
Knowing the socket sizes to press out the bushings will be a life saver since I can just order a couple sockets besides the 46mm I already ordered. I just need to track down a larger snap ring pliers than I already have.
Thanks Kev! I’ve actually done this before but it’s a great refresher! Much obliged.
Spot on, Kev - looks very similar to my 'new' 750 ('94), barring the rear caliper arrangement.
That area's due some attention after the bike's 15yr lay up.
👌🏻
nice one kev.done my cush drive today,by the inner tube method,once i'd got the right socket that is.i had a 1"13/16ths socket and it worked.near as damn to 46mm.i also had a pain with the circlip.i have the right pliers but they didnt open far enough,so i struggled with screwdrivers etc.all good now.cheers.
Thank you Kev, for this great howto video! It encouraged me to try to do it on my 5th Gen VFR...
I would have used my Impact wrench on that rear nut, but i am much older than you :) Anyhow, job well done !
I have an impact wrench but it isn't anywhere near man enough to shift that sucker!
Time to go shopping ! Lol @@KevsShed
Can you make another video just of the sounds your press makes when you release the valve, asking for a friend :)
😂😂😂
These are great videos, thanks a lot 😀!
Small suggestion for safety, always you want the breaker bar at 9 o clock and undo the nut pushing towards the floor even using your foot to press. This will prevent the breaker bar to come onto your face if the socket slips off the nut, will not be lifting the bike upwards with a potential to send it off the center stand and also will not be compressing the suspension which then is a power loss. Great videos keep up the good work!
Learned that one as an apprentice with a breaker bar under a truck, right in the jaw and goodnight 😂
@@homeworkshopengineering oh noo😂
Got the biggest breaker bar I had to hand then realised the nut was already loose!
I wonder if you were pushing down on the breaker bar it would have been easier.
I'll be there next week ;-) Greetings from northern germany. Realy nice job.
Thanks man 👍🏻
Good and clear explanation Kev. Thanks.
Cheers mate 👍🏻
You've done it again. Brilliant job. One question... you don't think it necessary to apply a little multipurpose grease to the bearings before pressing them in? Once again - cheers for giving me the guts to work on my VFR! DIY is most rewarding!
There’s no need to grease the bearings before fitment, they will go in easily 👍🏻
@@KevsShed Cheers, looking forward to your next VFR-video! Have a nice weekend!
@@srenemiljensen6413 You too buddy!
Helped me with my rear sprocket thanks
Cracking video. Really helped me on my Honda bros.
Another brilliant video...thanks Kev.....
✌✌✌ good video , thanks you. excellent mechanic. 🍻🍻
Thanks bud 👍🏻
Brilliant video thanks
Nice job! Thanks from Russia!
About to do mine to change the rotor and i pray my nuts not that tight. Hit it with Pblaster and i think i'm going to give just the nut a little torch. Zipties on the front brake lever may be better solo to keep it from moving forward leaning on that axle nut. Damn.
Kev, really helpful. thanks a lot ;-)
BRO! I just realized that your beard in this video makes you look like either Nicholas II or King George V (Nicholas' cousin). Epic facial hair fit for royalty!
😂😂😂
great vid!
Nice one Kev, yet another job to do, dammit!
A great video I am going to have a go at my 94 vfr750 thanks
Another bang-on video Kev, thank you! I'm thinking of finally tackling this overdue maintenance to my trusty 07 (along with the front bearings which you did as well) but one thing I'm definitely doing to take off that stubborn nut is using an impact wrench. I'm not as big as you and my back is not what is used to be. Besides, work smarter not harder right? Question, where did you get that rear hugger? I've had one before but it failed on me and the one you got looks better as it's a one piece design. Thanks again Kev!
It’s a good idea to use an impact gun if you have one! 👌🏻 as for the hugger, it was fitted when I got the bike, I agree it’s a really good looking hugger, all I can tell you is that it is made by King Carbon, I couldn’t say if they are still available though! 👍🏻
@@KevsShed Thanks! Just curious, will you be posting videos of your M3 in the future as well? Would love to see those too.
@@pnoyryder68 Absolutely! Keep an eye out this coming Sunday! 😉
Perfetto!! Ottimo video!! Complimenti!! Mi e stato di aiuto!!
Many thanks for your video. I own a vfr800f 2017 (rc93) and was about to change the chain, sprocket and rubber dampers (is that the good name for rubber parts behind the rear sprocket ?). Anyway, you helped me a lot.
Cheers mate.
Thanks for the Video.
Do you know what the torx head screw on the hub is for? 3rd, 4th and 5th gen don't have it, although they are all very similar.
Hi good vid, can I ask where you bought the stub axle nut from, was it stealer only?
Were your bearings noticeably in need of repair, or was this strictly preventative? How many miles on the bike? (I've got 60,000 km / 37,000 miles on my 2003 . . . 😰)
Strictly preventative and for the sake of useful content really. Kinda good to fully appreciate the serviceability of your bike too, the only way to be 100% certain is to replace each consumable. 👍🏻
@@KevsShed Good to know. I’ve read that section of the manual and it’s very scary, so it was great to see it’s actually possible for mere mortals!
@@timramsey2358if you don't get any water, particles of other bad things into your bearings (e.g. through damage/hitting something) it is not unlikely that the wheel bearings will outlive the engine
My 2004’s bearings were all silky smooth with no issues - cleaning them all off and re-applying grease should keep them happy for years to come.
What was the piece that is a “one shot deal” at 10:03?
Hi again, (my english is not perfect, then please don't mind the mistakes that could happen) I'm totally stuck trying to remove the driven flange assembly (that's how it's called in the service manual, but I'm talking about the rear sprocket assembly you're easily removing at 11:33). I don't understand how easily you managed to do it but I pull as hard as I'm dumb (it should have come).
I slacked the sprocket as said in the manual but is it required to slacken it to the minimum (the closer to the front of the bike the better ?).
I found nothing but your video where you remove it. Nothing on forums (vfr discussion) nor Web.
Kev's video is pretty thorough, doesn't miss anything. I can't really understand what your issue is, only to think you cannot pull the sprocket cush drive cover off the axle? Maybe use a rubber mallet or if this fails a puller?
@@alexmorgan3435 I figured it out by myself. I did not notice the part after the washer by using 2 flat screwdrivers and making it move side to side until it came out.
Afterwards I was able to pull out the flange and replace the rubber parts.
Thank you for your answer, I did appreciated it.
Cheers
Have ever issue removing the swing arm axel ??? mine sesms to hit something and won't budge after about 5 mm ???
Great video!!
Glad you enjoyed it👌🤓
Another good video. What is the cost of the parts i know fowlers website as u may know it quicker than me looking. Also the needle roller bearing is £88.72 the other bearings can you get away with non OEM ones just wondering. Thanks again good video. Ohh when shall i book mine at yours to do same lol ha ha. :)
Yeah, I got mine from Fowler’s, all except the needle roller bearing which I got from the states. Thus is an expensive job for OEM parts. Everything can be found 3rd party except for the needle roller because of that oil lip seal! 🤨
Does Honda sale that as a kit? Bearings, seals ,oring?
Kev the Armourer?
How did you know that the bearings needed replacing or was it just routine maintenance.
Usually the rear hub binds in places and you can feel it when riding or spinning the chain
please show a video of how you far you turned back the eccentric hub to tension the chain, Im having trouble getting the hub and brake carrier stay to stop dropping when I'm tensioning chain, and the correct position of the hub does the pinch bolt have to be in and tightened slightly to hold hub in one spot then tighten chain any help appreciated thanks
nip the tensioning bolt ever so slightly to create a slight drag on the hub, this should help hold it still while you tighten everything.
@KevsShed Hi Kev, thank you so much
love your content helps out alot 👌 will be tackling again today see how I go thank you 🏆
My caliper mounting plate just won't come off! Don't know how i will remove the bearing holder if that plate won't budge
Heat is your friend here bud, the plate is alloy and it’s mounted onto a steel component. Heat the alloy and it’ll expand I should be able to be gently tapped off.
@@KevsShed thanks I tried 5min of blow torch but still couldn't shift it
@@suddengreen5707 Soak it in Plusgas.
I have a 2001 VFR800 and the brake lights are always engaged. I've replaced the bulbs and brakes work fine. I can't figure it out. Any ideas?
I would start by disconnecting the front brake switch and then the rear brake switch, if they go out then you will know if it's a faulty switch. If not then it's likely a short somewhere, good luck!
how many km need to replace those bearing????
Is it the same for the 1994 vfr750?
Hi Kev are all the v tec vfr the same?
Yes mate 👍🏻
So...I stopped my rear hub install to see how you got the big bastard circlip back on and......you skipped that bit (*rolls eyes*) ...so c'mon Kev what did you do :)
Yeah, it’s a pain, perseverance is key!
I have a problem on my vfr. I put everything together as in the video, but when I tighten the main nut, the wheel turns hard
Put the bike so the rear wheel is on the ground and stand on the rear brake, or ask someone to do it for you.
Only way I could find the torque spec of that big nut is to watch this video
I think I'll sell my 2000 VFR and get another bike!