Vertigo (32/8b+) Australia's Hardest Trad Route
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- čas přidán 2. 03. 2020
- Definitely a true test piece, hard, scary, potentially dangerous. It's got moves that are at least V10 & V11 I would say. The gear is often quite small and intricate to place. If you get it wrong you are potentially going to hit the ground, he has put up the hardest trad route in the country!" Zac Vertrees...
La Sportiva Edelrid climber Dan Fisher has finally sent the long standing Vertigo Project at Namadgi National Park! This proud crack line up a massive boulder was first aid climbed in the 70ies and has had many wanting to free the line, but with no success until now. Thanks to Ben Sanford Media, watch Dan's journey as he takes on the line and establishes Australia's hardest trad route to date. Who will be the next climber to send it?
#LaSportiva #ForYourMountain #Edelrid #MadeByEdelrid #ClimbGreen - Sport
"I'm not a trad climber" - guy who's been trying a trad line for 8 years.
Brandon R lol so true, nice comment
When I filmed him, he said to me that it was the most he'd lead the route ever. He practiced it on top rope until he had it dialled. He's a boulderer mainly. Funny thing was he called wires/ nuts/ stoppers 'wire thingys' at one point.
@@bensanfordmedia whats up with the footage at 04:05? All the Black in the image are a greenish mess? Left side in the crag for example. I'm just curios and a video editor ;)
@@limekrhythm6749 Not too sure, can't actually see what you mean. I almost never edit, so I'm a rookie. Must've been a grading error.
Hannes Müller Doesn’t look off at all, must be your monitor.
love how all the gear were stoppers! way to go
im not a trad climber why do you praise using one specific type of gear?
@@silenthicks Because stoppers feel the least secure as a piece of protection to place in comparison to Cams/friends and hexes. So it's extra bold to climb in that style.
@@bensanfordmedia Not really true. It always depends on the placement. There are placements where stoppers definitely feel way more secure than cams ...
And I'm sure if he felt like some cams would suit this route and make it safer, he would've used some cams, but he decided stoppers just work better.
@@masterpropper2485 I understand that, I've climbed trad for years. Some grooves take wires way better but in general they are rated lower than their equivalents in cams, so in general people feel like little wires aren't as nice to whip on. Hence Dan climbed it in bold style. He mentioned he borrowed the wires, he didn't own a rack.
Using stoppers is not "bold". They are simply just better than cams in some situations. The unfortunate reality is passive protection is becoming a lost art form.
Nice video! Had me laughing at "I'm not a trad climber" ..climbs 8b+ on trad..:D
Awesome, really appreciated that most of the moves were included in this edit. Much more enjoyable than the frantic, "cut to the crux style" of many films.
i love daniel fisher
Great video. I thought to myself "That's a good spot for a cam" and you placed a nut. Well done.
Definitely some ballnut potential on this too.....maybe it's just easier to quickly slot a nut and set it on these moves than use a cam, especially in some of the blind placements.
Fantastic not to see someone howling and grunting, just getting the work done! Amazing climbing, sweaty hands business
Absolute animal. My hands got sweaty just watching this.
that chimney on the left looks interesting...
That's incredible.... That layback section near the end looks insane
So glad to see someone showing off the katanas again!
Damn impressive! Great style and a humble bloke too.
Awesome send Dan, the video footage makes the crack look bigger than it is in reality. I had a play on bottom section in the mid 90's and was so spanked I could never move out of the curving crack. George bolted a route above and to the left of Functor which needs some lovin'
What a beautiful line. Strong work!
All that gear just looked so comfortable. Love it, good effort!
awesome! massive congrats. holding down a regular job adds another layer to and already serious achievement as well! Great vid.
Dan, you are awesome, Congratulations mate!
Excellent, very well done!
sick, well done Dan and great video too
Wow. What a beauty!
Very aesthetic line! Great effort man!
incredible work
Nice Dan! Sick to see you're still going hard!
Awesome send and great looking route, nice work dude!!!
What an amazing line. Congrats.
Climbers are the "Special Operators" of the Action Sports world. I get psyched out on sport routes so mad respect to this bloke for this hardcore trad send.
Just awesome!
Well done mate! It's hard enough as an aid route so well do on sending it like that!
done a lot of trad back in the day.... can't even imagine climbing 5.14a TRAD..... that was wicked..............
Such an epic send Dan!!
Brilliant mate.
what a sick route
amazing
Well done 👍
Great video, love the detail on holds and gear and clear shots of the climb from start to finish.
Thanks Ben!
Nice my dude. Very strong
Thought I was looking at something on Derbyshire grit lovely vid great climbing well done!!
Pity, that route ends at the edge, not at the top of the rock. Anyway very nice line and great climbing. Thanks!
Awesome, well done. A minor point? The term 'testpiece' is not just for a hard climb. It's for an established classic that is considered the benchmark for the grade, something other climbs can be compared to. Up and coming climbers test themselves on a testpiece to know that they can climb that grade. Vertigo may well become a testpiece, but as a new route (and unrepeated?) by definition it can't be one yet :-)
Beautifully done! Back in my day, we did everything possible to avoid placing bolts on a rout. Ethics were the biggest concern for us when placing a rout. That's mostly gone now. Such a thrill to see such a clean accent of this amazing line!
I mean you could bolt that but why when there's optimum pro placement everywhere
Balls of steel
His crack glove is awesome, just why bother. This makes this send even greater!
Nice mate!
Unreal
daniel fisher is my idol
Yikes. I was worried about some of my pieces popping while aiding Vertigo! Serious kudos due here.
Absolutely Bad Ass!
@6:40, we've all experienced that moment.
This isn't just the hardest trad route in Australia, its one of the hardest trad routes in the world, incredible effort for someone with a full time job expecially!
nice line!
my heart was racing
Great Video ;)
Those draws look nice
Where’s the topout? Nice route, Nice vid.
Cool
Yeah... more aussie climbing docs please.
6:15 Tape on left hand disappearing. 6:53 Tape on left hand reappearing.
7:05 Tape on left hand disappearing. 7:13 Tape on left hand reappearing.
Nice climb though!!
Oops. I only have two hands, bit hard to shoot two cameras and a drone at once. This wasn't actual first ascent footage, nor did we say it was.
@Pete is never wrong Thanks Pete, appreciate it!
Yeah I'd find about any excuse possible not to try this one.......mad respect.. I'd have to top rope that one till the rock was smooth too have the balls to lead it
That Zac looks like the Aussie version of Tommy Caldwell lol
I’m so curious as to who discovers the paths for climbing.
Never thought that the tape beta for an 8b+ would be one flimsy boi
so sick. great footage. Has Logan climbed this?
Which bit of "first ascent" are you having trouble understanding?
Nah Logan hasn't done it, I believe he's tried it though.
@@bensanfordmedia nice! He has drive and skill.....thx!
BOLD
Amazing looking climb (and gear colour coordination), but the editing is far too choppy (changing angle every 3 seconds makes it hard to see the actual climbing) and the sound balance is buggered at the start, the kickdrum nearly blew my headphones after turning it up to hear his quiet interview.
Fiend O'Phobia 😢🎻
Well ... What about topping out ?! very nice line though
Great effort 32 is a serious undertaking but isn’t this the same grade as the dragon in kalbarri and whistling kite at frog?
Whistling Kite is the same grade but is not a trad line, has some bolts as well as gear, no idea about the other one
The dragon is a touchy subject, may or may not have actually been done, a hold has rumored to have broken and it hasn't had a repeat since it went up 19 odd years ago. The line is mega tho definitely could go.
I spent a fair bit of time working the route. It is definately harder than 32. My thoughts were quite a few moves around V7- 3 moves around V9-V10 and one V11. Very sustained climbing.
So awesome. Shows labelling yourself as sport/trad/boulder means nothing. Just go climbing and try hard like this young fella.
We’re all these shots from the one send? The tape on his hand disappeared halfway through the climb
Pretty impossible to have close-ups and drone shots without seeing a camera man from one send.
We did three laps to film it that day. The actual FA was not filmed.
What is the soundtrack in the end of this video?
Stranger In The Woods - PALA (Instrumental)
Great climbing.
The video? Not so much.
Too many cuts and zooms.
And the audio levels! Music is waay to loud in comparison to the spoken parts. I had to adjust my amplifier on every cut.
Surely, trad routes should top out if possible???? He could have belly flopped onto that sloping shelf at the top. If he had a belly, that is...😁
doesnt the dragon in kalbarri WA go at the same grade (im aware it is unrepeated tho)
Nice, I'm also a high school teacher
Used to be the hardest. Those sacred rocks are safe now..
Is there a route up the left arete ?
There's a route in the chimney on bolts, not sure about the arete though.
Was this a HeadPoint ascent?
Dan just reclimbed it for the video, FA was a normal Redpoint
Wow with 0 cams?!?!
What's the name of the song starting at 1:14?
Give - OBOY (Instrumental)
Soundtrack?
In order:
By My Side - The Emerson Year
Give - OBOY
Stranger In The Woods - PALA
All instrumental versions.
whats the song name?
What's the name of the song starting at 3:50 ?
It's Stranger in the Woods by PALA
@@bensanfordmedia I cant find it. Could you please send link? Thanks
Parkour reborn one?
Why not top out?
Does anyone know the music from 2:25 to 2:47?
Hey Ed, it's Give - OBOY (Instrumental)
Doubt the video was of the ascent, but was it topped fully out for the FA?
jlehm 1982 get off it dude.
@@semmtexx What? Video footage is RARELY of the actual ascent when it's edited footage like this. The anchors end basically at the lip. I'm asking if he topped it all the way out. Whatever you're butt hurt about, you need to get over it.
Nah, this was filmed a couple of weeks after the FA, hence no excitement reaching the anchors etc. I'm not sure if Dan continued through on the FA to the very top.
Ben Sanford now that’s a real answer! Thanks for the info. Cheers.
@@jlehm It's 4th class from the anchor to the top, even you could free that bit.
V10/11 is harder than 8b+ for overall grade. Looks like a major sandbag. OTOH all hard cracks are just plain nasty.
Freestyle sand bagging. It’s the Australian way 👍🏼
Hard to say there was a v10 Boulder in that man
It sure don't look like that now!
Did this area burn?
What grade would this be given for English trad?
Bold e10 because the gears shit I think
@@paddyoneill3243 gear is shit? Now neither of us really know how the gear is since we can't view each placement, but the wires look like they all set decently into constrictions. Just because they're not cams doesn't mean they're not bomber
@@joshcourt6744 cams aren't the be all and end all but it looks like he places a few brasses or micros you can't really tell on the video, but he even states himself that the gear is shite on these moves?
@@paddyoneill3243 Placements for excellent small wires are available but they are blind and taking a hand off long enough to get the gear in adds substantial difficulty. I think the English grading system would struggle to deal with this route, and it's much better described with a regular climbing grade plus two sentences to explain the gear situation.
@@user-zu2hv2qc7c our grading system covers the over all technical side of the climb the tech grade.... The e side of the climb can mean anything the fall how shit the holds are how hard it is to place gear is the gear shit, have you done this climb.... I have no idea how ozzie grading works the sentence would this be a brief over all of the type of route?
cool route but hard to watch with the changing views.
Will he retrieve all that protection he put in? If not, that could be an expensive climb for a school teacher. Or anyone.
You don't climb, do you?
버티고?
Ahh fuck so australian lol
Harder than punks in the gym?
Hope this helps with your trad climbing mentality. When I started, traditional climbing was all we did.
I learned all I could about all the gear, especially the strength specs.
This allowed me to use it all confidently and creatively in many varied situations. Bolts however left me with many questions.
Who placed them? What kind was used? How much masonry experience did the person have who placed them? I always backed up a bolt with gear if I could.
I knew about the gear I was using. I did not know about the bolts I used, and did not trust them blindly.
Hope this helps.
Congrats for that amazing route!! But.. So many people around that guy, and nowbody say.. Hey dude Use the HELMET for your safety!! And for all that new climbers that will be watching this vídeo!!
HELMEEET
I'm enjoying the climb - however, from a production point of view, the music is too loud (WAY too loud in some sections) and the narration is way too quiet. Needs re-balancing.
This would be 12+/13- in joshua tree
vertigo from roblox parkour??????
Get with the rest of the world an use YDS also we can gauge how hard it is ,man I can't get used to a new system there so many ,my mind is going to explode,I can't handle it anymore what about the dawn wall on elcap ,that's just plain strait rock 2300 ft high