Nightmayer - Steve McClure
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- čas přidán 30. 03. 2020
- One of Great Britain’s most distinguished climbers, Steve McClure has spent the last few decades scaling cliffs and crags all over the world. In spite of his globetrotting status, he likes nothing more than to tackle challenges on the rock walls of his home country. This is how, after sending Rainman in Malham in 2017, he became one of only a handful of people to climb 9b. In 2019, he finally settled a long overdue score by onsighting Nightmayer, a hard, complex, and committing route!
••• Credits •••
Video Production: www.keithsharplesphotography.c...
••• Featuring •••
Steve Mc Clure: / ste_mcclure
©Petzl Distribution 2020 - All rights reserved - Sport
You know the climbing is serious when Steve takes the time to tie his shoes.
I love how petzl offers this insight into climbing, instead of some fast-forwarding clips or excess editing contents
Since first day i climb myself i give a lot of respect to all you english climbers. Absolute fearless, do all this crazy stuff even in bad conditions and just laugh about it all at the end. *BRILLIANT* ❤️
I absolutely love watching extreme trad videos.
Me too!
Incredible onsight. His foot work is unreal. Picking the right holds first time on that is next level. Can't understand why the thumbs down. Must of slipped 🤔
Well played steve. And great footage. 👌
luke glaister is this an onsight? He knew gear info beforehand!?
@@timschaufele719 is any lead an onsight these days with all the info/beta on offer. Let's put it this way. It's the best style that route has been climbed.
Also there was chalk marking the holds, besides Steve having knowledge of the placements. This is of course an incredible ascent, just not on-sight.
for me, onsight means free climbing a route ground up,on the first ever try, with none whatsoever knowledge of the route besides the length and the grade (i have no strong opinion on pre-placed quickdraws).
I see chalk marks as serious help from previous climbers,showing how the route goes.And i think every climber pushing his onsight/flash grade can agree to that.(think of chalk marks/sole marks on slab route)
The issue is that guys like steve, define the sport for the rest of us.
@@kazo0ie
These comments were from ukc write ups.
Does it count as an on-sight if you know you need a specialist piece of kit prior?
In this case, many people take a sky hook to onsight lord of the flies so I think it would be more surprising if someone didn’t take at least one hook with them on this. Steve planned to take a hook . Also the main hook placement is pretty obvious, and the sequences of climbing are way harder to spot and he read the moves so well.
Also he missed a fairly crucial (obviously not that crucial for him!!) nut 1 in the headwall. This meant that apart from a sky hook, the only gear he had between him girdle ledge was a small nut. And it stays hard to the very top.
And to those quibbling about onsightness, you have to remember that, unlike in most sport climbing, the line between onsight and flash in trad is fundamentally and inescapably blurred. Without bolts to show the way, simply knowing where a route goes often requires some degree of advance knowledge, not to mention that critical gear (and sometimes even hidden holds) is often mentioned in guidebook descriptions. Far better to recognise a fantastic achievement by a great climber who almost certainly knew so little about the route in advance as to make it feel as onsight as any other, than to try to enforce arbitrary lines in the definitional sand.
Them statements sum it up for me.
Steve knows what he is risking in saying that he has onsighted the route. If he feels that he didn't know more than the guidebooks would tell u. Never worked or seen the moves. Then who are we to say different. Climb hard. Stay safe. 👌
You can feel he's in doubt! That's rare to have such footage !
I saw Steve in a PEtzl Rock trip in Argentina.... amazing climber, so peaceful and with an incredible technique.....
What a legend! Poetry. Thanks for making this video.
Absolutely breathtaking, such an amazing feat! Congrats on that onsight send!
Always a pleasure watching Steve climb, makes it look so effortless. Well done!
Love this style of climbing, so calm and slow, carefully considering every foot and move, no explosion of power.
I hadn't felt so much tension in a climbing video in a while, the silent long take was spot on.
I agree, very methodical. Steve really makes it look easy.
Awesome climbing. This route has withstood some serious contenders for the onsight crown. Well done Steve Mc.
Seriously impressive on sight. Well done Steve you’re always very inspiring!
Superb...eye watering, mind boggling...typical steve.
So impressive. Well done Steve 👍🏼
Omg!! Brilliant!!
Well done and the story telling I love this kind of climbing videos. Keep us spoiled kids entertained
Brilliant climbing as always!
This is a breathtaking sport ، very good
Excellent climbing and the video was very well made too
Congratulations and well done!
so elegant, so effortless
So gnarly betwween the two last points of the wall! Balls of fire!
I don't know how you keep your wits about one.
Just amazing
A serious business indeed. Wow! Great film
Whew! That was spicy. Respect
Steve's self control is just amazing, his movement is so relaxed and fluid! Excellent!
I. Need. 2. Climb.
This motivates me, gives me a feeling of insight. The feeling of being alone and exposed at the top of some hard climb, I love it. It's beautiful.
All kinds of awesome.
Very good video!)
Sick climbing! Would love to do the routes Steve mentions in the beginning, The Cenotaph Corner, Left Wall, Cemetery Gates..!
F ... s... - well done Mate .
I stopp sweating now . Nice route !!!
Damn. Chapeau!
Well done ! Think I was more scared than Mr. McClure.Also enjoy that there's no annoying soundtrack.
Well done Respect. I've got good memories of this place i went years ago when I was kid I think it was 1999 2000 I was 13-14 years old can't quite remember. I Saw a guy trying this route he took one hell of a fall the piece of gear poped out and he hit the ground he was ok just a bit bruised. It shook me up a bit this was just as I was about to lead up the left wall I made sure to place the gear well 👍
Well done 👍
Amaziiiiiing
Well done indeed!
the brits are by far the boldest climbers in the world. no one else comes close, except for a handful of elite soloists. and from what I can tell they're fairly humble and low-profile (I'm american and have never heard of steve before). mad respect!!
There is a great tradition of not bolting certain rock types here. Have you looked at any footage of hard Czech climbing though? Very impressive ethics and extremely bold.
@@johnm9709 yeah that Czech stuff is hardcore!
tenso!!
Nice Video!
Spicy!
amazing
Balls of steel.
🔥🔥🔥!
Quality he is mega, Had chat to him at cheedale one day really approachable guy and friendly.
Massive !
NICE!
Balls of steel
sick
That was superbe
That is wild
Fuegooo
Proper impressive
Wow. I was so uncomfortable with the short slings on the last wire placement and skyhook pro. It felt like the slings should have been more like full shoulder length.
Agreed. If the wire lifted that would be tragic.
Luckily the crucial wire slot was chalked enough to see it!! Rad ascent anyway in such a brilliant style
Palms so sweaty at the end. He thrives in sketchy situations.
Knees were weak, vomit on his sweater already, moms spaghetti.
Oh god! Legs behind the rope :o
That's part of what makes it so spicy. The only protection is that one spot, and the double ropes make the management dicey when doing a move like that.
Yeah I had that happen when I fell at a lead climbing comp last year.. Still got the scar on the back of leg! It burns like hell!
To me it actually looked like he wouldn't flip over if he fell because protection was far to his left and right
Wow, on a small rock and a skyhook?! :-o Hearing him talking about the experience makes it even more creepy!
Can anyone tell what's going on with the gear on his right rope at 2:07? Is it just two long slings attached together with a quickdraw as a mega long extender, or is he linking two wires together?
He's just adding runners to extend it to keep drag minimized. The other rope has a piece to somewhat share the load
😃😃😃😃😃😃💪💪💪💪
So scary
It would be better if they showed the climb with commentary in the background. Hard to get into it when you keep cutting the climbing in and out.
Yes, why there aren't more uncut ascents with voice overs is beyond me. The Ondra video on his uncut onsite footage of 'just do it' was wildly popular but still that style isn't so common. Why?
Impressively controlled climbing in a very scary place. Here (towards the end of the video) is Nico Favresse taking the big ride on his on-sight attempt:
czcams.com/video/uiLlxs0zP3E/video.html
Tom livingstone what a nice collab
This what they call old man strength?
You have balls
Why is he tied into two ropes?
On long routes, you don't want to have too much drag from the rope. When you go across the wall, left and right, you tend to have your rope at bad angles that create drag. When you have two ropes, you keep on rope to clip to the right and the other one to the left. Not sure if I'm clear enough but I think you'll get it.
@@Airsofter3009 Yep that explains it perfectly. Thank you!
@@Airsofter3009 a bit shorter:
zig zag bad.
@@PB-sk9jn zig zag drag
What grade is this route?
8a
E8 6c
@@sueedenjin that's not the UK trad grade
My God...iam such a poor Climber... :-)
E
Why are my hands sweating when I wath this? It's not a good thing for climbing, is it?
Why is human body doing it if it doesnt make sense? Evolution from apes...right
It's embarrassing to claim this as an onsight... He clearly has very significant beta and has been on this wall even if it's not this exact route loads of times!!!