Glad you did this video. People ask me constantly, "what should I use in my AR?" I tell them motor oil and I use it all of the time. The response is usually, " I'm not using that in my $2K rifle." My response, " yet you use it in a $20K machine."
Yeah, brah, get skin cancer due to prolonged skin contact with the motor oil on the externals of the firearm. If you only apply it to the internals, there is really no functioning benefit because the long lasting lubrication properties of motor oil can't be realized because you'll be cleaning your firearm after every shooting session, anyway. The only reason to use motor oil on internals of a firearm is cost effectiveness of already having motor oil in your garage.
Well there young fella. As an ex mechanic I'm familliar with all these lubes plus some other less common ones. I'm not here to offer my opinion or be judgemental. What I want to say to you is that you have done your homework,you speak with experience and you have ann your shit together and your ducks in a row. As for the quality of your presentation,I would say that you've done a better and more thorough job than most I have seen on here. I would go as far as to say if you ever consider another career,become an educator. Thanks for a great job. Kudos.
Being a mechanic you must know car oil is a carcinogen where as gun oil not. Breathing in car oil after from a weapon that’s 4 inches from your face will do wonders
@@user-zm8mv7mv2uever breathed the outside air before? Millions of cars on the road with a proportion of them with blowby and other carcinogenic emissions. I don't disagree with you...but the scope of your argument does not consider other variables at play, and the point of this video is that oil is oil with similar components and branding/marketing on top. Any inhaled products combustion of combustion likely have negative health implications. Teach me otherwise, I'm dumb
@@OneSlySwan sure , if you have a bottle of motor oil read the warning sign on the back which reads , used motor oil is known to cause skin cancer with laboratory animals. Now to your question , outside environmental factors also include carcinogens such as driving on the freeway; brake dust, Diesel exhaust , carbon monoxide emissions which also contribute but EPA guidelines cars are equipped with cabin filters to decrease affects. Now to purposely coat your weapon with 10-40 oil , knowing research was developed to lessen your risk factor to cancer is entirely your decision. Logically ,I don’t understand the reasoning other carcinogen environmental factors are out there so I’m going to be selective what I think is harmful. I don’t see your point. The warning label is what it is! It’s there to protect you. Other oils are available which are not carcinogens
As an old guy from way back, I sure was waiting along time for someone to get a clue and rediscover, really, common sense lubing of weapons. Been using HD motor oil and synthetic Hi-Temp bearing grease in all my guns for awhile-and generally just because I had the stuff on hand for my Jeep ZJ and other vehicles AND IT WORKS. Thanks for a well done vid. You present well. Good job.
The reason to use gun oil is the addition of rust preventatives. while engine oil works great as a lubricant it offers very little protection from rust. Gun oil is especially important for firearms with bare steel and blued finishes.
I'm laughing because my cousin, a mechanic, explained this to me and I was asking why do gun lube companies even exist really ... He said, "Money." lol
Amen, Brother. I'm 62 years old, have been shooting since the age of 5, My dad taught me to use Motor Oil/Transmission Fluid for firearm cleaner/lube. Through the years, I have concocted my own formula, based on videos such as this, and library/internet research. Since 2003, I have been using this formula, with excellent results: 32 oz Mobil 10W40 Full Synthetic motor oil 32 oz Valvoline Dextron II Full Synthetic ATF 15 oz STP Oil Treatment 16 oz 10W30 SAE Motor Oil 30 oz Marvel Mystery Oil 1 oz Hoppe’s #9 (for scent) optional for about a gallon. Lasts me about 3-4 years.
@@mnrodriguez Maybe your Dad was like mine and saw all the propoganda from Remington that their oil is the best. I can say that from experience that it works great for door squeaks but not my hunting rifle.
I have been operating the M16 weapons platform for over 35 years " 22 yr's USMC " I use 2 stroke oil , usually synthetic it works in dessert and cold areas. It protects the operating system from over wear and overheat. Simple !
@@connorsurgeon8976 If it doesn't say " Synthetic oil " on the container , it's not synthetic . Any thin motor oil will work in an emergency or SHT situation. But not cooking oil , cooking oil has salt added and will rust your weapon. a " light coat " of 10W20 would keep your weapon going a lot better than no oil.
Its funny, I started off with motor oil on my guns until my cousin told me I was a dumbass for doing It. Actually, I was a dumbass for believing him, now Im gunna go back to using motor oil lol.
I've been using 30w convential motor oil for my AR for the past 500+ rounds; for two reason's, heat tolerance and dirt removal suspended in the oil. I fire 1 'clearing' shot after each cleaning and my accuracy and wear and tear are better than acceptable and I skip the hype about 'gun oils' I printed less than .5" at 100 yards with a 16' barrel with a 1:8 twist in my AR. I've never experienced a malfunction of any kind with this set up.
Misterpoloytech; interesting, I too use synthetic 30 weight motor oil for my AR; I havent had one malfunction yet in over 200 rounds using 30 round Magpul mags. I also have more target shooting with less cleaning. I clean mly rifle every other time I go out and fire it with pinpoint accuracy. The oil provides better lube for less wear and lifts dirt and carbon away from the important parts, in all heat regimes.
What's the point of using motor oil on internals of a firearm when the internals should be cleaned every time when the firearm is at least moderately used? The long term lubrication benefits are not effected (don't confuse with "affected") because you're cleaning it off and applying new lubrication. And to use motor oil on the exterior receiver, barrel, slide, etc will only increase the probability of cancer due to prolonged skin contact.
@@Research_Lavon_Affair skin cancer is really only a risk with USED motor oil, not fresh oil. I'm sure "gun lubes" can be just a carcinogenic as conventional motor oil anyway...
This video saved my life i had steel case 308 that got stuck in the chamber every couple rounds after using some mobile one in the bore no more jams and guns stay protected longer. Aslo so much cheaper.
Great info! We used motor oil on our machine guns downrange, and it worked perfectly. The absolute worst we ever dealt with was that weird powder crap that was over-sold to the Army around 2006. Terrible
Mobil 1 0w20 is what I'm using now for all my rifles and Pistols. Soo far soo good. It was hard to stop using amsoil. I still used amsoil to clean my guns.
From strait leg Infantry guy, a street cop and a SWAT guy your spot on. Been running motor oil for years. Save your hard earned cash brothers & sisters, buy auto lubes. Good video sir..
For many years, I kept thinking "gun oil" is over price. It has to be another alternative that work and cheap. Now I found it, thanks for open my eyes.
dudes, mix 4 parts Mobil 1 synthic with 1 part Mobil 1 synthic transmission fluid. i have been keeping my bolt wet with this recipe for the last 8 years. Carbon just wipes off. Lube the upper reciever with Hi Temp High Pressure grease. Its 3.99 for a tub at walmart. I also use the grease (red color) on wear points on my glocks as well. fuck all the "gun oil" that is gun oil. The synthic oil stays fluid at -20. far cheaper and far better.
+uscgalpha91 I use a similar formula. Just a few minor tweaks to my formula. My last mix of a gallons worth has been in use for 6 years now and I still have 3/4 of it left.
Spot on. I found the same at an estate sale and mixed mine up. Looks like we are good till the next civil war on the year 2030 which ever comes first. When I clean my bolt I just wipe off the carbon and fouling (nothing sticks). I only shoot AR's with a wet bold. Also I lube the rails inside the receiver with Walmart Supertech "Multi Duty Hi Temp Grease" Its redish color and comes in a small peanut can and costs $3.99. I also lube my Pistols with the Grease and it works fab. We are all being overcharges massivly for gun lubricants.
+uscgalpha91 Trans fluid has detergents to aid in clearing the crud. Thanks for the recipe, I'm going to try it. Tired of paying $9 for a small bottle glorified lubricants.
Here's What I use: 1 part 80/90, 1 part Dex 3 mercon. Works awsome!! Lucas red&tacky during warm weather/heavy shooting. I like using B-12 Chemtool, Kroil, and non-cfc brake clean for general and heavy cleaning. And don't forget good old pine sol and hot water!! Just make sure to dry the gun completely before lubing! Murphys oil soap to clean wood stocks, then linseed or pure veggie oil to finish them off :)
I know I'm about 6 years and 2 months late, But Nice Video, full of info, I actually had a young firearms instructor ( about 25/8 yrs old ) tell the class, that Engine oil was all they used when he was serving in Afghanistan. I can see why you used the "Automotive Engine" to compare it to the AR cycling. But you forget an Automotive "Engine" has a oil pump and the heavy load cycling points being lubed are under oil pressure from the oil pump, keeping a forced layer of oil between the bearings and steel crank, cam bearings to cam ... with heavy oil splash and run off for everything else, like timing chain and gears, valve stems and guides, piston rings, with constant filtering. I think the BCG runs hotter than a 200 degree Engine, esp. on a fun day at the range or during a heavy fire fight. The one grease you did not mention was a high temp and pressure graphite grease or a graphite / oil mix, any reason not to or is it not a good option for lubing an AR BCG ? BTW Sorry for running on. I've been an auto mechanic for 40 years and a Hot Rodder for about the same time, so people that call Engines, motors, get under my skin. From what I learned back in the OLDEN days, Motors run on hydraulics, electric, air pressure or a combo of those, everything but, burning fuel... lol.
Actually one of the pluses of a synthetic oil is when it's applied to a firearm versus conventional motor oil is that it doesn't sludge up and create as much buildup in the firearm. It just shoots cleaner.
Synthetic transmission fluid for me.Overnight soak and BOOM! Wipe off excess and go bock to shooting. I also clean my receiver with it. Hoppes #9 for inside the barrel.
I will add here, last weekend I saw many guys pulling BCGs out and CLP'ing and cleaning a few times throughout the weekend. I don't know the exact number of rounds I shot but I'm guessing approximately 1,100. I cleaned with #9 and lubed appropriately with synthetic 10W-30 before the weekend, and I did not touch my AR even once for cleaning after that and it ran just fine and dandy. I guess I'm convinced from here on out.
During my two tours to the Sand Box with the U.S.M.C., we encountered some of the worst conditions weapons can endure. The sand in the Middle east is fine “moon dust” similar to talcum powder. The problem is that when mixed with water or oil commonly used in cleaning weapons systems it turns to a mud like paste. We discovered that the regular issue Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant (CLP) [which is a Mil-Spec lubricant, sold commercially under the trade name “Break Free CLP”.] CLP was contributing to the problem more than fixing it. It is true that we cleaned our weapons daily sometimes two or three times depending on conditions and enemy activity. Our M16/ M4s would function properly as long as they were cleaned routinely. Problems would occur when troops were engaged for prolonged times and couldn’t risk breaking down their weapons to clean out all the dirt. We would simply pour in more CLP. An AR-15 type rifle will fire and function dirty as long as it is liberally lubricated. The problem is the more oil you pore down the bolt and into the chamber the more dirt it collects. What we discovered is that using Mobil1 synthetic motor oil usually in a 0w30 or 5w30 works much better than the CLP. At $10 per quart it is on the expensive side as motor oils go. But when compared to CLP or Rem Oil that are usually sold in 6 ounce containers at $5 to $6 it is much more cost effective. We also experimented with it on out crew served weapon systems. We found it to out perform the (Lubricant, Small Arms (LSA) used on the M2 (.50 Cal Browning machinegun) and MK-19 (40mm grenade launcher). I heard a rumor that the Marine Corps had experimented with synthetic motor oils as potential weapons cleaning lubricants. They determined them to be too effective and decided it would bring complacency as Marines might assume that they now had to clean their weapons less
Great vid. I would just add that there are two main benefits to using synthetic motor oil. 1. It is barely affected by the cold temps. The pourability rate is very consistent, even at extremely low temps. 2. The detergent package is usually better. Sounds weird to bring up about guns, but it makes a difference. The difference is, they are easier to wipe clean. I agree with you though, if I lived down south, I'd run conventional motor oil. Thanks for the kick ass vids. I learn a lot on each one.
I used Mobile One for years, and it worked great on the guns I used and cleaned regularly. But I noticed that with some of my guns, that I left in long term storage, were left with a yellow varnish type of crud on the parts, when the oil evaporates.( Yes, oil evaporates ) I was told by a guy who was a lubrication engineer at a gun show , who was selling a well known brand of gun oil , that those were all the additives left, that were added to motor oil, like zinc, index increasers, detergents, and so on, that you really don't need in a gun lube. I switched back to a top gun lube ( I'm not going to say which one, I don't want to be accused of being a shill for the company ) and that problem went away. I figure, some of my guns are worth over a thousand dollars apiece, so what difference does $32 for 16 oz of oil make. It will last me for many years. I mean hell, a box of 30-06 ammo costs that much. You guys go to the range, bumpfire hundreds of rounds, and then you are going to penny pinch over $32 ? Just my opinion.
I hadn't thought of that - the idea that motor oil contains some elements that are useful for car engines, but are unnecessary for guns. Come on, just say it - what's the gun oil you've decided to now use?
Great video! You hit on a very good point about the over branding of specialized lubes. Take bicycle lubes they are often about 3-5$ per FL.oz. but the duty cycle is so light anything would work.
Yep Hi Temp lithium grease and synthetic motor oil (_Castrol Magnatec as of late_) is pretty much all I have used for the last few years. Another great video bro!
As a mechanic, when someone has asked me how an engine "works" first thing I tell them to get somewhat of an understanding is to tell them that all a piston is is a bullet attached by a rod that pulls it back into the barrel and shoots it again! So that's also why I personally have always used automotive motor oil. Single weight myself tho
Motor oil versus manual transmission/differential oil? From what I know, motor oils have quite much additives designed to deal with combustion products and protection of emissions equipment. Meanwhile manual trans/diff oils do not have that and are rated for higher hammering loads (extra anti-wear additives), what actually happens in gearbox when gears meet each others. So the question is - assuming same price and same availability, what should I pick up from the shelf for my firearm lubrication, motor oil or manual trans/diff oil? Thanks.
This is the second time I've watched your video, and I agree with all that you say, well done. This time I thought I'd share a unique experience with you. A few years back, I was cleaning and generally refurbishing the M1Garands which my VFW post used for funerals. The guys had little or no experience in tearing them down, nor did they have any dedicated tools for the task. I'd completely dismantled six of the rifles, replaced all of the operating springs, thoroughly cleaned everything, and also replaced any questionable parts. I'd even gone so far as to purchase the most authoritative text every written on the M1. The grease issued to the troops in WWII was very similar, if not identical, to the red bearing grease sold at the local auto parts stores today. There was an adage which ran through most schools of thought back then; if it slides--grease it; if it turns--oil it. Just a drop and just a dab. In fact the manuals which dictated applying grease instructed to just apply it thin enough that you could not see the color of the grease. (Then, as today, those pieces in the field were going to be serviced daily--unless the owner is an idiot.) Well I had one particular rifle which would not properly feed, nor eject a full en bloc clip of eight rounds, regardless of what I did. I replaced every part in the feeding mechanism except the bolt and the op rod. Even rebuilt the bolt's extractor and ejector along with the springs and the spring in the magazine's retention bar on the left side of the receiver. Still, the rifle would fire two or three rounds and fail to feed or try and toss the clip--which didn't fully depart the weapon as it still had to much weight from the remaining rounds. Obviously, it was out of timing, but what was causing it was a mystery. I spoke to many experts around the country, still unable to resolve the issue. I finally contacted a local gent who owned three or more M1s and took the rifle over to him. We sat down and discussed what I'd done, the results I'd had and then he also field stripped the piece and determined that every thing seemed to be in proper order and good condition. At that point he says let's try this, taking a large gob of bearing grease and slathering it on all of the internals, including the raceways, bosses & lugs and finished with, now try it. I took it out back, loaded a full clip and all eight fired without a hitch. I reloaded and a second clip of eight fired off as fast as I could pull the trigger. Once again proving, there may always be an exception to the rule, and you better be prepared to think & play outside of the box. BTW, thanks for your video. If I every am able to use all the products I have on my bench, I'll stick to bearing grease and motor oil for lube after that. Also agree that after de-greasing a part, for any reason, it should then be wiped down with a very light coat of oil.
Hey man you really did your homework that was some real good information I always thought about using motor oil in all my guns but was afraid it would damage them but after this information I will never pay high prices again for gun lube. Thanks and keep up the good work.
When I was a young man, we used to observe the Russian troops clean their weapons after a firing exercise. They had a barrel of hot water and soap they washed their aks in and then they used motor oil on the bore and body grease, track grease on the bolt. I guess the water cleaned the corrosive primer debris off the gun, also the dirt.
Have read warm water bath is recommended for black powder or after firing corrosive ammo. I think the corrosives are alkaline, so helpful to add a bit of vinegar in the water... This degreased a bit, so lube quickly afterwards!
@@finngamesknudson1457 they are Acidic in combination with water, air humidity is enough to activate it. this is why you use dish soap or alkaline cleaners.
I use Motor Oil too , besides being cheap and effective, the detergents in Motor Oil that keeps Your engine clean also helps to soften the carbon build up and makes cleaning easier.
Wow! I have walked into countless gun shops looking for the right gun lube. I have asked many people if motor oil is OK to use on my ar15. I am new to the gun culture and the community, and I was just curious. My thought process is unconventional. You pretty much answered my question better than anyone has, ever. Thank You, I appreciate the information. People man, I swear they were looking at me fucking sideways and shit like i was out of my damn mind lol.
When I get done changing oil in my Harley I let the 20w50 synthetic drip out of the bottles into an old baby food jar, it works great on the AR BCG's. and the Amsoil is made for high heat motors. this works great in the Glock slides and the 1911's. I don't use the 20w50 on everything but for slides and bcg's it don't get any better!
Thank you!!! I suspected this all along. It seems that when you put "gun" or "boat" in front of everything, including oil, the price gets jacked up beyond all reason. Thanks again.
I use Slick 50 for points that require oil and have for years. Points that require something heavier like the sear areas bolt lugs etc I use a thin coat of white lithium. General corrosion protection I use Marvel Mystery Oil. Slick 50 is fairly expensive but will last for a long time with minimum application to the surface applied to and works exceptionally well.
Very good simplistic explanation on how to keep money in your pocket for more guns or more ammo. I bought a box of surplus LSA oil in bottles back in the 70's. I still have a couple of bottles left and it works too. Lucas Oil is great stuff as Mobile 1. Conventional oil sometimes has an odor while burning that irritates my sinus. Loose as a Goose use grease, Right Tight use motor oil.
Mobil 1 + ATF works very well in cold and hot temp. ATF will work by itself, it helps clean out the gunk, but can mess up finish on some wooden stocks and Mobil 1 seems to buffer that effect. Mobil 1 coats the parts with graphite(?) and other stuff, so it lubes even after the oil has evaporated.
I personally use LP lithium Grease it's nice and thick keeps the surface that has a lot of friction during the cycling process slick and it preserves the metals and it's extremely high temp resistant!!! Works great and you only spend 10 bucks on a tub at your local auto parts store that will last you for what seems like a life time!!!
I have used motor oil mostly synthetic but I keep going back to slip 2000 EWL I love this stuff it is high may not do much different but all my guns have run 100% using it so I just stick with it
I use 0W-20 synthetic I also use 0W-40 Castrol synthetic Works great in my guns "gun " oil is nothing more than Castrol repackaged in many cases Why spend the money on so called "gun" oil A quart of Castrol synthetic is all you need Great video Your channel is awesome
The oil I use currently (Hoppes) allows the internals of my carry gun (PPS M2) to seriously rust. Thinking of switching to Mobile-1 synthetic... My question is: Can you use it to clean with--kinda like CLP? (I'd like to replace my Hoppes solvent as well, if possible) *Edited 1 month later:* Still using Hoppes solvent, but I did end up switching oil (Found some Castrol synthetic 10W-30 'High Mileage' for around $6+ -- way cheaper than gun oil). My rust problem has disappeared, and the gun functions at least as well as before... Fyi, I'm also using it on my AR, as well as a Savage Axis II that had developed some rust on the bolt in storage... Fwiw
I love Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Oil and Universal depending on the firearm and temperature. It stays in place and it's slick as snot. It isn't as cheap as motor oil but it's costs less than FrogLube or the other fad lubricants.
I just bought an Aero Precision AR15. I got the M4E1 Enhanced Upper with a 20 inch barrel and the M16A4 lower. Glad I watched this video I will only be using 10w-30 synthetic oil. Going to breaking it in right!
In the past, I regularly put 2,000-4,000 rounds down range every 1-4 weeks. I don't know how many rounds total, but I have or have had standard issue Colt ARs that have had 50,000 to 60,000 rounds (per rifle - same parts), and counting, through them using this method. Graphite is a great, multi-purpose item to have. Muzzle blast and other crap doesn't stick to it, doesn't get in the way of moving parts, works as a lube and does not corrode. Besides you can safely scrub soot of your weapons with a pencil. Won't scratch. Hoppe's NON-toxic gun cleaner, a bore-snake, tetra grease (use extremely sparingly, "a dab will do ya") and a mechanical pencil. (Add a chamber brush for rifles, particularly ARs). FOR TACTICAL REASONS: It helps if your enemy can't smell your weapon cleaning solvent. www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_17?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=hoppes+elite+gun+cleaner&sprefix=elite+gun+cleaner%2Caps%2C181&crid=I80VXR1ZIK2N www.amazon.com/Tetra-004B1I-Grease-1-Ounce-Blister/dp/B0014VVNZU Accurate 1st, Speed a close 2nd. Train, train, train. There is no substitute for skilled experience.
Rotella T6 diesel oil has more phosphorus and zinc than almost all oils. Phosphorus and zinc protect metal on metal wear. Both of these have been removed from oils due to fouling catalytic converters years ago per an enginneer from Amsoil. Your video reminded me of this. At 15w 40 I'm going to give it a go.
I agree with you. Guns are just metal on metal. You lube the metal, not a gun. Inexpensive auto lubricants work equally well in guns too. 10w 'gun' oil is actually free for many. If you change your own oil, there's enough left over to share with your firearms. My lawnmower takes 1.2 qts. That's .8 qts left over. 10w oil is super, super cheap.
Daelkyr I use mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, that's what my truck takes. it takes 7quarts and I buy 5 quart jugs and fill up an old hoppes bottle. synthetic oil leaves a slick film even if you wipe it off. even after I clean my guns with hoppes and it evaporates my guns still feel like they have a slick coating on them. it's desighned to help during cold starts when your engine bearings are dry in that 1 to 2 seconds before your oil pump pushes oil through your engine. conventional oil doesn't but like he said I don't think you will ever run your gun enough to dry it out.
Good info, great video. You're not the only person that has promoted motor oil. I forget the guy's name, but he put out a video on how to build an AR. He is the master gunsmith at JD Machine Tech in San Diego. He said that he had been using Mobil 1 for over 20 years.
Motor oil works just fine. The only exception I would make is if you were going to store a gun long-term and not use it , or keep it in a high humidity place. Specific gun lubes do offer a better protection against rust.
In my country AK is the service military weapon, Russian factory recommend oil as a lube, car oil in ok but never never use grease.interesting information but remember, cars has a cooling system + 4 to 5 quart of oil.
After every match (6+ times a month), my striker fired pistols get disassemble. Then I spray all parts (except the striker assembly) with a clp and blow out the dirt and grime with an air compressor. The barrel gets a bore cleaner and a thorough cleaning. The striker parts all get cleaned with alcohol and reassembled dry. Once everything is clean, I apply a very light coat of High Temperature, High Pressure aircraft wheel bearing grease to anything (except the striker assembly) that moves. This grease provides unfailing lubrication in any situation that a firearm can throw at you, and when it's time to clean up again EVERYTHING comes off real easy! As a former engineer for a jet engine manufacturer (and jet pilot) I found that engine oils are designed to 1st Cool, 2nd Clean (filtered), and lastly Lubricate an engine. We don't normally have cooling issues or oil filters on our weapons, so that leaves friction and pressures that have to be dealt with. You can use an oil if you want to, it is better than nothing, but certainly not the best. Just saying...
Break Free CLP is good and pretty cheap. It is effective in a wide range or conditions. If the military was only going for cheap, they would use motor oil.
+Johnny Pea I was a gunsmith in the army if someone in the army use motor oil in any gun his going to have a huge penalty but do you want to start a war against the stupids ? i don't
Not exactly, Motor oils ore constantly flowing through a filter that removes particles, carbon often. Motor oil, being an oil will drain from parts. setting over time. Synthetic a little less. Oil temps in a vehicle are subjected to vastly cooler temps than a running gun during a class or an engagement. The vehicle oil has a cooling system that reduces the building temps and passes that heat out either through the radiator or cooling fins as in a motorcycle. Rule of thumb if the parts slide on another part use a grease if the parts rotate around an axle or pin a oil consistency item. Automotive greases aren't designed to resist attracting debris, where some firearm greases are. The drag that automotive grease creates isn't there in high end firearm grease.
Julian P. It’s so funny that the most intellectual response on here doesn’t get any replies. But thanks for this. All that he was sayin in the video was very convincing and I knew there had to be something he was missing. And this definitely was what he missed.
Motor oil is used in applications with clearances measured in the thousandths.... Temperatures in excess of 800 plus degrees . Yes , there is a filter...its a closed system and filters are about 60% effective, thats why you must change your oil. Automatic trans fluid takes an even harder beating...high temps, basic fiber filters, even closer tolerances and higher pressures. You change that about ever 25000 miles or so. No gun will even undergo that type of punishment. Automotive lubes are perfect for weapons...... 25 years ASE Master Mechanic.
Edward Harrison 25000 miles for a trans fluid change? You stuck in the 80s? Most cars now have 100k mile intervals for trans, as well as spark plugs. Oil changes intervals are lasting 10k miles.
Meanwhile the gun industry tries to sell us scented canola oil. I don't know, maybe I'd trust the automotive guys over the canola oil guys, but that's just me.
How well does motor oil: 1. Inhibit lead, copper and carbon build up? 2. Remove lead, copper and carbon that that do manage to adhere to the surface? 3. Inhibit corrosion? From where I sit, I have a pretty good deal with Slip 2000. I use EWL to clean the gun. The excess is wiped off with microfiber and q-tips, leaving a thin protective coating. Then I put EWG on the slide rails, and then I put EWL30 wherever it says to put gun oil. These three products cooperate and don't fight each other.
Grease is SHIT. It is designed for old steam locomotives and wheel bearings. Use a good quality oil and maybe clean and lubricate your gun a little more often, like every time you go to the range.
@Mark Belk I second that Mark. The Yankees can have that SHIT. I wish there was a way to solve the problem of them moving down to Florida for the Winter. Especially the New Yorkers and Canadian's.
I know I'm a little late to the party, but I have a genuine question. I've been sold on gun oils because the combustion rate is so much higher than that of an engine. Because of that higher combustion rate, don't you need an oil that stands up to the higher burn rates? Am I misinformed? I would really like to be wrong in this case, because I love the idea of using the same oil that I change the oil with on my vehicle.
I like the idea of using motor oil as a lubricant for a cheaper alternative to CLP that works just as well. However, can I also use motor oil to clean my firearm - including the bore?
Good thoughts and insights. I started looking at using grease after seeing James Yeager use it on his AR BCG. You mentioned grease/oil being an issue at very low temps - what would you think about mixing in some Marvel Mystery oil (or some similar additive) with the oil for those cold temps? The obvious answer should be to test it, but I only live in RI, so it doesn't get that cold. Also, you mentioned not using a degreaser - what do you use?
destiny walker ever tested it at that temperature with a rifle? I use Mobil 1 for my M1 Garand It gets down that cold here. But I don’t really want to be outside. I should really just suck it up and go play
I have used simple old white lithium grease on all of my firearms since 1988, need had a fail. my 1911 has over 9000 rounds down the pipe. The only thing I have changed is my barrel bushings. The old one was fine, I just wanted a stainless steel bushing.
Fun fact about engines: they have optimal operating temperatures between 180 and 220 ish degrees (Farenheit). Not only are these oils holding up with parts rubbing up against each other hundreds of thousands of times in a single session, but they're built to be at home in intense heat.
Mobil-1 on all my guns. AR's run slicker than snot, 1911's, 9mm's, etc. The only gun I still use a little Tetra grease, is on the receiver and bolt of my M1A. I've been shooting and building firearms for decades. Virtually all the special gun oils are a complete waste of money. Mobil-1.
I’ve used motor oil in the past. Items like Castrol syntec, slick 50, soaking high wear parts overnight. Not sure if it really made a difference. But the year is 2022 and the price of everything is ⬆️. So it looks like I’ll be getting some more motor oil 🙂
Synthetic oil has a pour point that is better than regular motor oil under extreme cold conditions. It stays fluid up to -45F while most motor oils will stay fluid to -33F and a secret oil is transmission oil that stays fluid to -55F.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival Eh, we've all done less than sensible stuff when it comes to our guns. You're definitely not alone in using tacticool cleaners and lubricants.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival Like ARG said the "Gun Lubes" work but you are paying 10 times more for it. Yes I know I can use motor oil and grease in a situation where I can't get my gun lube of choice and I would without a second thought. I would use 3 in 1 oil if I had to in a pinch.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival I just recently switched over to Lucas Oil semi-synthetic engine assembly lube. I've been doing some research on lubes to re-evaluate what I use. I wanted something that would stay put more and decided to go to an auto store. I picked-up a tube of one of the grease similar to what Regular guy mentioned but as I looked at a bottom shelf, I saw these little white plastic bottles of the assembly lube. I picked it up and tore off the protective seal under the twist cap and dabbed my finger in it and it was a much thicker and tackier consistency. It was also this cool greenish color. Anyways, it includes some extreme pressure anti-wear additives such as zinc and moly and considering the thickness, I think it would stay on the gun better when being used and so far it has worked great. I have a CHL and I'm here in Texas and it gets hot. Many other gun oils will tend to run and week after week, the top of my chamber on my XDM still has a sheen on it from the Lucas Assembly Lube. Give that a try.
BlueonGoldZ Back in the day, when I first began using it, I did so after I saw their gear display at my local auto parts store. I saw how the oil stayed with the gears, rather than allowing gravity to its thing. I thought I should use that in my guns, so I did. I never had any issues out of it, now matter how dirty. I would just wipe down the bolt carrier group and the chamber, then shoot on. I moved to Frog Lube after it became tacticool and I still use it. If it works, I will continue to use something. When I get low on it, I may move back to Lucas. I appreciate your reply, BTW. It's cool to have open conversations without the trolls.
Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival Yeah, no worries. Look-up Weapon Shield's videos on CZcams. He uses a Timken bearing machine to simulate wear. Frog Lube performed very poorly. I would stay away from it.
+1Motor oil is great for this application. I use Mobil 1, just because that's what I use in most of my vehicles.Almost everyone has motor oil around, even if it's for your lawnmower. No need to buy special "gun oil".If you want something a little "thicker" try a straight weight oil (30w or 40w oil) instead of a multi-weight.I use CLP for cleaning bolt assemblies, but wet them down with Mobil 1.
I bought Lucas bc it was on sale and i wanted the needle applicator but once its gone, im just filling the bottle with some left over unused amsoil from changing the oil in my Harley🤷♂️
Great presentation, I do use Synthetic wheel bearing grease in my My M14 bolt and op Rod and hoppes #9 for cleaning. I've thought of using synthetic oil for my 1911 .45's; a Colt Gov't and a Ruger SR1911. I follow the oiling principals of GunBlue490. I use only a film of oil and grease. Synthetic is good where I live because i does get cooler here and synthetic doesn't thicken up like regular oil. I shoot corrosive ammo in my M14 and I find the Hoppes #9 does a great job of removing the corrosive powder.
My fiends and I who happen to have military and law enforcement backgrounds, agree with you completely. We looked at this about 2 years ago and came to the same conclusion as you did. Why pay more when it is not necessary. Love your videos, keep them coming.
I clean everything on my guns with Auto Trans Fluid. It has more detergents than motor oils and will dissolve carbon buildup. Then put a light coat of Mobile 1 on any contact/slide points. For my AR's I clean what's needed besides the bolt group by hand. The bolt group I let soak overnight in a small container of ATF. The next day when I pull it out, the fluid is darker and I don't need to scrub anything, it's already clean. Let it drip dry for a couple hours (watch the carbon run off) and put a light coat of Mobile 1 on the slide rails. Done
1:42 Oil in cars is pumped through a filter and most of the debris is collected. Some performance cars cool it as well. It works and you make good points but that comparison is lacking. For colder temperatures just go for a thinner oil. The upside of some firearm specific lubes can be in the cleaning, encasing of particles and so on but for the most part it isn't that important and additives are out there. The red mix has a lot of fans. I just stumbled over your channel and try some more. YT recommending lots of older videos.
Glad you did this video. People ask me constantly, "what should I use in my AR?" I tell them motor oil and I use it all of the time. The response is usually, " I'm not using that in my $2K rifle." My response, " yet you use it in a $20K machine."
+Tac Medic booooom
Mic drop
Great answer!
Yeah, brah, get skin cancer due to prolonged skin contact with the motor oil on the externals of the firearm. If you only apply it to the internals, there is really no functioning benefit because the long lasting lubrication properties of motor oil can't be realized because you'll be cleaning your firearm after every shooting session, anyway. The only reason to use motor oil on internals of a firearm is cost effectiveness of already having motor oil in your garage.
Most gun oils also have warnings if you take the time to read the label.
I use shell oil, gives +5 horsepower tacticool points.
GuerrillaFPS +50 fps
Lost respect points for using tacticool
Has anyone tried Q20???
Musing wheel bearing grease since day one on all my weapons and never had a problem .
Well there young fella. As an ex mechanic I'm familliar with all these lubes plus some other less common ones. I'm not here to offer my opinion or be judgemental. What I want to say to you is that you have done your homework,you speak with experience and you have ann your shit together and your ducks in a row. As for the quality of your presentation,I would say that you've done a better and more thorough job than most I have seen on here. I would go as far as to say if you ever consider another career,become an educator. Thanks for a great job. Kudos.
Being a mechanic you must know car oil is a carcinogen where as gun oil not. Breathing in car oil after from a weapon that’s 4 inches from your face will do wonders
@@user-zm8mv7mv2uever breathed the outside air before? Millions of cars on the road with a proportion of them with blowby and other carcinogenic emissions.
I don't disagree with you...but the scope of your argument does not consider other variables at play, and the point of this video is that oil is oil with similar components and branding/marketing on top. Any inhaled products combustion of combustion likely have negative health implications.
Teach me otherwise, I'm dumb
@@OneSlySwan sure , if you have a bottle of motor oil read the warning sign on the back which reads , used motor oil is known to cause skin cancer with laboratory animals.
Now to your question , outside environmental factors also include carcinogens such as driving on the freeway; brake dust, Diesel exhaust , carbon monoxide emissions which also contribute but EPA guidelines cars are equipped with cabin filters to decrease affects.
Now to purposely coat your weapon with 10-40 oil , knowing research was developed to lessen your risk factor to cancer is entirely your decision.
Logically ,I don’t understand the reasoning other carcinogen environmental factors are out there so I’m going to be selective what I think is harmful.
I don’t see your point. The warning label is what it is! It’s there to protect you. Other oils are available which are not carcinogens
As an old guy from way back, I sure was waiting along time for someone to get a clue and rediscover, really, common sense lubing of weapons. Been using HD motor oil and synthetic Hi-Temp bearing grease in all my guns for awhile-and generally just because I had the stuff on hand for my Jeep ZJ and other vehicles AND IT WORKS. Thanks for a well done vid. You present well. Good job.
Maybe manufacturers don’t recommend motor oil is because it’s a carcinogen
The points made in this video are well founded
X2
The reason to use gun oil is the addition of rust preventatives. while engine oil works great as a lubricant it offers very little protection from rust. Gun oil is especially important for firearms with bare steel and blued finishes.
Lube is lube. On the ak I usually go with KY "yours and mine."
Lol nice
😂
A water based lubricant? Better put some Rust-eze in that BIAATCH!!!
lmao, that must be super smooth!
Astroglide...works in all temps and cleans with water! It's mandatory for running your bolt into the rear chamber.
+Lupus Venator ROTFLMAO
The hotter it gets, the slicker too. LOL
Lupus Venator
Your comment just made my day a great one!
Astroglide's biggest spokesman is Ron Jeremy.
A guy ran vagisil at a class I did.
I'm laughing because my cousin, a mechanic, explained this to me and I was asking why do gun lube companies even exist really ... He said, "Money." lol
Lmao😂
Amen, Brother. I'm 62 years old, have been shooting since the age of 5, My dad taught me to use Motor Oil/Transmission Fluid for firearm cleaner/lube. Through the years, I have concocted my own formula, based on videos such as this, and library/internet research. Since 2003, I have been using this formula, with excellent results:
32 oz Mobil 10W40 Full Synthetic motor oil
32 oz Valvoline Dextron II Full Synthetic ATF
15 oz STP Oil Treatment
16 oz 10W30 SAE Motor Oil
30 oz Marvel Mystery Oil
1 oz Hoppe’s #9 (for scent) optional
for about a gallon. Lasts me about 3-4 years.
My father taught me to use gun oil.
@@mnrodriguez Maybe your Dad was like mine and saw all the propoganda from Remington that their oil is the best. I can say that from experience that it works great for door squeaks but not my hunting rifle.
I have been operating the M16 weapons platform for over 35 years " 22 yr's USMC " I use 2 stroke oil , usually synthetic it works in dessert and cold areas. It protects the operating system from over wear and overheat. Simple !
Would like to thank you for your service and the 2 stroke tip
Operating system? Is the M16 windows or Linux based?
is synthetic 10w20 okay?
@@connorsurgeon8976 If it doesn't say " Synthetic oil " on the container , it's not synthetic . Any thin motor oil will work in an emergency or SHT situation. But not cooking oil , cooking oil has salt added and will rust your weapon. a " light coat " of 10W20 would keep your weapon going a lot better than no oil.
@@rohawaha yes I'm talking about full synthetic lol. mobile one
Bacon grease is good, but you get hungry after about 50 rounds from the aroma of bacon.
mmm Colt .45 with a maple bacon aroma, I'm such a glutton
Its funny, I started off with motor oil on my guns until my cousin told me I was a dumbass for doing It. Actually, I was a dumbass for believing him, now Im gunna go back to using motor oil lol.
everyone's a pro until you really do your research
I've been using 30w convential motor oil for my AR for the past 500+ rounds; for two reason's, heat tolerance and dirt removal suspended in the oil. I fire 1 'clearing' shot after each cleaning and my accuracy and wear and tear are better than acceptable and I skip the hype about 'gun oils' I printed less than .5" at 100 yards with a 16' barrel with a 1:8 twist in my AR. I've never experienced a malfunction of any kind with this set up.
Misterpoloytech; interesting, I too use synthetic 30 weight motor oil for my AR; I havent had one malfunction yet in over 200 rounds using 30 round Magpul mags. I also have more target shooting with less cleaning. I clean mly rifle every other time I go out and fire it with pinpoint accuracy. The oil provides better lube for less wear and lifts dirt and carbon away from the important parts, in all heat regimes.
What's the point of using motor oil on internals of a firearm when the internals should be cleaned every time when the firearm is at least moderately used? The long term lubrication benefits are not effected (don't confuse with "affected") because you're cleaning it off and applying new lubrication. And to use motor oil on the exterior receiver, barrel, slide, etc will only increase the probability of cancer due to prolonged skin contact.
@@Research_Lavon_Affair skin cancer is really only a risk with USED motor oil, not fresh oil. I'm sure "gun lubes" can be just a carcinogenic as conventional motor oil anyway...
This video saved my life i had steel case 308 that got stuck in the chamber every couple rounds after using some mobile one in the bore no more jams and guns stay protected longer. Aslo so much cheaper.
Great info! We used motor oil on our machine guns downrange, and it worked perfectly. The absolute worst we ever dealt with was that weird powder crap that was over-sold to the Army around 2006. Terrible
0w-20 full synthetic. stays liquid at -40c and stays liquid at extreme high temps. my 2013 toyota 4runner requires it, so it's a win, win situation.
Mobil 1 0w20 is what I'm using now for all my rifles and Pistols. Soo far soo good. It was hard to stop using amsoil. I still used amsoil to clean my guns.
Same for me! Already have some in my car. Just need an applicator bottle. Still think I need a cleaner.
Am 78 yrs old and have used Amzoil 2 cycle oil for 50 plus years with no ill effect. (undiluted) Am an engineer will much experience with lubrication.
From strait leg Infantry guy, a street cop and a SWAT guy your spot on. Been running motor oil for years. Save your hard earned cash brothers & sisters, buy auto lubes. Good video sir..
+Joseph Bell appreciated, leg
Don't forget Navy seal , black water mercenary, and CIA international hit man !
Ahh yes I'm a AK guy new to the AR platform. Bearing grease in the AK, motor oil in the AR, got it. Thanks brother!
Transmission fluid is all I use. I particularly like the stuff with wear resistance.
For many years, I kept thinking "gun oil" is over price. It has to be another alternative that work and cheap. Now I found it, thanks for open my eyes.
you had me at gun. that's why I clicked on.
I lubed machine guns with motor oil.. they always functioned better with oil than with clp, lsa or law.
dudes, mix 4 parts Mobil 1 synthic with 1 part Mobil 1 synthic transmission fluid. i have been keeping my bolt wet with this recipe for the last 8 years. Carbon just wipes off. Lube the upper reciever with Hi Temp High Pressure grease. Its 3.99 for a tub at walmart. I also use the grease (red color) on wear points on my glocks as well.
fuck all the "gun oil" that is gun oil. The synthic oil stays fluid at -20. far cheaper and far better.
Same here
+uscgalpha91 I use a similar formula. Just a few minor tweaks to my formula. My last mix of a gallons worth has been in use for 6 years now and I still have 3/4 of it left.
Spot on. I found the same at an estate sale and mixed mine up. Looks like we are good till the next civil war on the year 2030 which ever comes first. When I clean my bolt I just wipe off the carbon and fouling (nothing sticks). I only shoot AR's with a wet bold. Also I lube the rails inside the receiver with Walmart Supertech "Multi Duty Hi Temp Grease" Its redish color and comes in a small peanut can and costs $3.99. I also lube my Pistols with the Grease and it works fab.
We are all being overcharges massivly for gun lubricants.
+uscgalpha91 & +SHWELL11. Too funny I do similar with Castrol
+uscgalpha91 Trans fluid has detergents to aid in clearing the crud. Thanks for the recipe, I'm going to try it. Tired of paying $9 for a small bottle glorified lubricants.
Ever since frog-lube froze in my bolt in my AR I stopped using it.
Here's What I use: 1 part 80/90, 1 part Dex 3 mercon. Works awsome!! Lucas red&tacky during warm weather/heavy shooting. I like using B-12 Chemtool, Kroil, and non-cfc brake clean for general and heavy cleaning. And don't forget good old pine sol and hot water!! Just make sure to dry the gun completely before lubing! Murphys oil soap to clean wood stocks, then linseed or pure veggie oil to finish them off :)
Maglidius liberty you think too much
I've been using motor oil for ever. The outside of my guns are turtle waxed. Never have a rust problem here in Florida
I know I'm about 6 years and 2 months late, But Nice Video, full of info, I actually had a young firearms instructor ( about 25/8 yrs old ) tell the class, that Engine oil was all they used when he was serving in Afghanistan. I can see why you used the "Automotive Engine" to compare it to the AR cycling. But you forget an Automotive "Engine" has a oil pump and the heavy load cycling points being lubed are under oil pressure from the oil pump, keeping a forced layer of oil between the bearings and steel crank, cam bearings to cam ... with heavy oil splash and run off for everything else, like timing chain and gears, valve stems and guides, piston rings, with constant filtering. I think the BCG runs hotter than a 200 degree Engine, esp. on a fun day at the range or during a heavy fire fight. The one grease you did not mention was a high temp and pressure graphite grease or a graphite / oil mix, any reason not to or is it not a good option for lubing an AR BCG ? BTW Sorry for running on. I've been an auto mechanic for 40 years and a Hot Rodder for about the same time, so people that call Engines, motors, get under my skin. From what I learned back in the OLDEN days, Motors run on hydraulics, electric, air pressure or a combo of those, everything but, burning fuel... lol.
Actually one of the pluses of a synthetic oil is when it's applied to a firearm versus conventional motor oil is that it doesn't sludge up and create as much buildup in the firearm. It just shoots cleaner.
Synthetic transmission fluid for me.Overnight soak and BOOM! Wipe off excess and go bock to shooting. I also clean my receiver with it. Hoppes #9 for inside the barrel.
I will add here, last weekend I saw many guys pulling BCGs out and CLP'ing and cleaning a few times throughout the weekend. I don't know the exact number of rounds I shot but I'm guessing approximately 1,100. I cleaned with #9 and lubed appropriately with synthetic 10W-30 before the weekend, and I did not touch my AR even once for cleaning after that and it ran just fine and dandy. I guess I'm convinced from here on out.
weird how guns run well when people pay attention huh lol
During my two tours to the Sand Box with the U.S.M.C., we encountered some of the worst conditions weapons can endure. The sand in the Middle east is fine “moon dust” similar to talcum powder. The problem is that when mixed with water or oil commonly used in cleaning weapons systems it turns to a mud like paste. We discovered that the regular issue Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant (CLP) [which is a Mil-Spec lubricant, sold commercially under the trade name “Break Free CLP”.] CLP was contributing to the problem more than fixing it. It is true that we cleaned our weapons daily sometimes two or three times depending on conditions and enemy activity. Our M16/ M4s would function properly as long as they were cleaned routinely. Problems would occur when troops were engaged for prolonged times and couldn’t risk breaking down their weapons to clean out all the dirt. We would simply pour in more CLP. An AR-15 type rifle will fire and function dirty as long as it is liberally lubricated. The problem is the more oil you pore down the bolt and into the chamber the more dirt it collects. What we discovered is that using Mobil1 synthetic motor oil usually in a 0w30 or 5w30 works much better than the CLP. At $10 per quart it is on the expensive side as motor oils go. But when compared to CLP or Rem Oil that are usually sold in 6 ounce containers at $5 to $6 it is much more cost effective. We also experimented with it on out crew served weapon systems. We found it to out perform the (Lubricant, Small Arms (LSA) used on the M2 (.50 Cal Browning machinegun) and MK-19 (40mm grenade launcher).
I heard a rumor that the Marine Corps had experimented with synthetic motor oils as potential weapons cleaning lubricants. They determined them to be too effective and decided it would bring complacency as Marines might assume that they now had to clean their weapons less
The inner of my motor isn't blued or otherwise coated, what could the additifs in the car-oils do with the finish of my gun?
I use Mobil 1 in my truck and my corvette, and in my guns
from Russia with love.
David Starbuck a tub of that is certainly going to last a long time. Cheap and it works
Mobile 1 full synthetic lasts a full year in my car engine and it is always clean when changed.
Same
@@xlxlffdd6630 then you don't really drive your car if the oil is clean after a year
Great vid. I would just add that there are two main benefits to using synthetic motor oil. 1. It is barely affected by the cold temps. The pourability rate is very consistent, even at extremely low temps. 2. The detergent package is usually better. Sounds weird to bring up about guns, but it makes a difference. The difference is, they are easier to wipe clean. I agree with you though, if I lived down south, I'd run conventional motor oil. Thanks for the kick ass vids. I learn a lot on each one.
Is there any advantage to using conventional over synthetic in warmer climates? Besides cost, I mean.
I used Mobile One for years, and it worked great on the guns I used and cleaned regularly. But I noticed that with some of my guns, that I left in long term storage, were left with a yellow varnish type of crud on the parts, when the oil evaporates.( Yes, oil evaporates ) I was told by a guy who was a lubrication engineer at a gun show , who was selling a well known brand of gun oil , that those were all the additives left, that were added to motor oil, like zinc, index increasers, detergents, and so on, that you really don't need in a gun lube. I switched back to a top gun lube ( I'm not going to say which one, I don't want to be accused of being a shill for the company ) and that problem went away. I figure, some of my guns are worth over a thousand dollars apiece, so what difference does $32 for 16 oz of oil make. It will last me for many years. I mean hell, a box of 30-06 ammo costs that much. You guys go to the range, bumpfire hundreds of rounds, and then you are going to penny pinch over $32 ? Just my opinion.
I hadn't thought of that - the idea that motor oil contains some elements that are useful for car engines, but are unnecessary for guns. Come on, just say it - what's the gun oil you've decided to now use?
@@saurabhsonic Weapons Shield ! Watch the test here on CZcams, it blows everything else away !
Great video! You hit on a very good point about the over branding of specialized lubes. Take bicycle lubes they are often about 3-5$ per FL.oz. but the duty cycle is so light anything would work.
Yep Hi Temp lithium grease and synthetic motor oil (_Castrol Magnatec as of late_) is pretty much all I have used for the last few years. Another great video bro!
I love it when you talk dirty to me: "I used to be a high temperature lithium based wheel bearing grease guy"
As a mechanic, when someone has asked me how an engine "works" first thing I tell them to get somewhat of an understanding is to tell them that all a piston is is a bullet attached by a rod that pulls it back into the barrel and shoots it again! So that's also why I personally have always used automotive motor oil. Single weight myself tho
Motor oil versus manual transmission/differential oil? From what I know, motor oils have quite much additives designed to deal with combustion products and protection of emissions equipment. Meanwhile manual trans/diff oils do not have that and are rated for higher hammering loads (extra anti-wear additives), what actually happens in gearbox when gears meet each others. So the question is - assuming same price and same availability, what should I pick up from the shelf for my firearm lubrication, motor oil or manual trans/diff oil? Thanks.
At 3:29 w in oil stands for winter, not weight.
what
This is the second time I've watched your video, and I agree with all that you say, well done. This time I thought I'd share a unique experience with you. A few years back, I was cleaning and generally refurbishing the M1Garands which my VFW post used for funerals. The guys had little or no experience in tearing them down, nor did they have any dedicated tools for the task.
I'd completely dismantled six of the rifles, replaced all of the operating springs, thoroughly cleaned everything, and also replaced any questionable parts. I'd even gone so far as to purchase the most authoritative text every written on the M1. The grease issued to the troops in WWII was very similar, if not identical, to the red bearing grease sold at the local auto parts stores today. There was an adage which ran through most schools of thought back then; if it slides--grease it; if it turns--oil it. Just a drop and just a dab. In fact the manuals which dictated applying grease instructed to just apply it thin enough that you could not see the color of the grease. (Then, as today, those pieces in the field were going to be serviced daily--unless the owner is an idiot.)
Well I had one particular rifle which would not properly feed, nor eject a full en bloc clip of eight rounds, regardless of what I did. I replaced every part in the feeding mechanism except the bolt and the op rod. Even rebuilt the bolt's extractor and ejector along with the springs and the spring in the magazine's retention bar on the left side of the receiver. Still, the rifle would fire two or three rounds and fail to feed or try and toss the clip--which didn't fully depart the weapon as it still had to much weight from the remaining rounds.
Obviously, it was out of timing, but what was causing it was a mystery.
I spoke to many experts around the country, still unable to resolve the issue. I finally contacted a local gent who owned three or more M1s and took the rifle over to him. We sat down and discussed what I'd done, the results I'd had and then he also field stripped the piece and determined that every thing seemed to be in proper order and good condition. At that point he says let's try this, taking a large gob of bearing grease and slathering it on all of the internals, including the raceways, bosses & lugs and finished with, now try it. I took it out back, loaded a full clip and all eight fired without a hitch. I reloaded and a second clip of eight fired off as fast as I could pull the trigger.
Once again proving, there may always be an exception to the rule, and you better be prepared to think & play outside of the box.
BTW, thanks for your video. If I every am able to use all the products I have on my bench, I'll stick to bearing grease and motor oil for lube after that. Also agree that after de-greasing a part, for any reason, it should then be wiped down with a very light coat of oil.
Hey man you really did your homework that was some real good information I always thought about using motor oil in all my guns but was afraid it would damage them but after this information I will never pay high prices again for gun lube. Thanks and keep up the good work.
will do
Motor oil will keep a Ma duece running like a champ.
When I was a young man, we used to observe the Russian troops clean their weapons after a firing exercise. They had a barrel of hot water and soap they washed their aks in and then they used motor oil on the bore and body grease, track grease on the bolt. I guess the water cleaned the corrosive primer debris off the gun, also the dirt.
Have read warm water bath is recommended for black powder or after firing corrosive ammo. I think the corrosives are alkaline, so helpful to add a bit of vinegar in the water... This degreased a bit, so lube quickly afterwards!
@@finngamesknudson1457 they are Acidic in combination with water, air humidity is enough to activate it. this is why you use dish soap or alkaline cleaners.
Nothing like good old common sense. There is no magic technology, there is only good marketing. Great job!
I use Motor Oil too , besides being cheap and effective, the detergents in Motor Oil that keeps Your engine clean also helps to soften the carbon build up and makes cleaning easier.
Wow! I have walked into countless gun shops looking for the right gun lube. I have asked many people if motor oil is OK to use on my ar15. I am new to the gun culture and the community, and I was just curious. My thought process is unconventional. You pretty much answered my question better than anyone has, ever. Thank You, I appreciate the information. People man, I swear they were looking at me fucking sideways and shit like i was out of my damn mind lol.
When I get done changing oil in my Harley I let the 20w50 synthetic drip out of the bottles into an old baby food jar, it works great on the AR BCG's. and the Amsoil is made for high heat motors. this works great in the Glock slides and the 1911's. I don't use the 20w50 on everything but for slides and bcg's it don't get any better!
This actually makes sense. Always leftovers
Thank you!!! I suspected this all along. It seems that when you put "gun" or "boat" in front of everything, including oil, the price gets jacked up beyond all reason.
Thanks again.
yama goochie Especially if it has the word "TACTICAL" in front of it & the price will be way more!!
Don’t put shit on my glocks and they always run
I use Slick 50 for points that require oil and have for years. Points that require something heavier like the sear areas bolt lugs etc I use a thin coat of white lithium. General corrosion protection I use Marvel Mystery Oil. Slick 50 is fairly expensive but will last for a long time with minimum application to the surface applied to and works exceptionally well.
Very good simplistic explanation on how to keep money in your pocket for more guns or more ammo. I bought a box of surplus LSA oil in bottles back in the 70's. I still have a couple of bottles left and it works too. Lucas Oil is great stuff as Mobile 1. Conventional oil sometimes has an odor while burning that irritates my sinus. Loose as a Goose use grease, Right Tight use motor oil.
How about Lucas oil? It's pretty thick shit. Kinda half grease, half oil.
Mobil 1 + ATF works very well in cold and hot temp. ATF will work by itself, it helps clean out the gunk, but can mess up finish on some wooden stocks and Mobil 1 seems to buffer that effect. Mobil 1 coats the parts with graphite(?) and other stuff, so it lubes even after the oil has evaporated.
I personally use LP lithium Grease it's nice and thick keeps the surface that has a lot of friction during the cycling process slick and it preserves the metals and it's extremely high temp resistant!!! Works great and you only spend 10 bucks on a tub at your local auto parts store that will last you for what seems like a life time!!!
I have used motor oil mostly synthetic but I keep going back to slip 2000 EWL I love this stuff it is high may not do much different but all my guns have run 100% using it so I just stick with it
I use 0W-20 synthetic
I also use 0W-40 Castrol synthetic
Works great in my guns
"gun " oil is nothing more than Castrol repackaged in many cases
Why spend the money on so called "gun" oil
A quart of Castrol synthetic is all you need
Great video
Your channel is awesome
***** Been using Castrol Magnatec in my AR's for sometime now. Before that Mobil 1 syn. But either way I haven't looked back.
MatteoSixSeventyFour Very cool Brother-
Rock on !!!
+QuartersEye Why 0w-40 instead of a thicker oil like 15w-40?
Why would you use a thicker oil ?
More protection
The thing I've noticed, is that motor oil will drain from the gun in about a week. Lucas gun oil keeps it wet forever lol.
The oil I use currently (Hoppes) allows the internals of my carry gun (PPS M2) to seriously rust. Thinking of switching to Mobile-1 synthetic... My question is: Can you use it to clean with--kinda like CLP? (I'd like to replace my Hoppes solvent as well, if possible)
*Edited 1 month later:* Still using Hoppes solvent, but I did end up switching oil (Found some Castrol synthetic 10W-30 'High Mileage' for around $6+ -- way cheaper than gun oil). My rust problem has disappeared, and the gun functions at least as well as before...
Fyi, I'm also using it on my AR, as well as a Savage Axis II that had developed some rust on the bolt in storage... Fwiw
I love Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Oil and Universal depending on the firearm and temperature. It stays in place and it's slick as snot. It isn't as cheap as motor oil but it's costs less than FrogLube or the other fad lubricants.
So just to be clear you say use 10w-30 or 10w-40 motor oil to lube the AR?
Willie Rodriguez yes
I just bought an Aero Precision AR15. I got the M4E1 Enhanced Upper with a 20 inch barrel and the M16A4 lower. Glad I watched this video I will only be using 10w-30 synthetic oil. Going to breaking it in right!
In the past, I regularly put 2,000-4,000 rounds down range every 1-4 weeks. I don't know how many rounds total, but I have or have had standard issue Colt ARs that have had 50,000 to 60,000 rounds (per rifle - same parts), and counting, through them using this method.
Graphite is a great, multi-purpose item to have. Muzzle blast and other crap doesn't stick to it, doesn't get in the way of moving parts, works as a lube and does not corrode. Besides you can safely scrub soot of your weapons with a pencil. Won't scratch.
Hoppe's NON-toxic gun cleaner, a bore-snake, tetra grease (use extremely sparingly, "a dab will do ya") and a mechanical pencil. (Add a chamber brush for rifles, particularly ARs).
FOR TACTICAL REASONS: It helps if your enemy can't smell your weapon cleaning solvent.
www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_17?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=hoppes+elite+gun+cleaner&sprefix=elite+gun+cleaner%2Caps%2C181&crid=I80VXR1ZIK2N
www.amazon.com/Tetra-004B1I-Grease-1-Ounce-Blister/dp/B0014VVNZU
Accurate 1st, Speed a close 2nd. Train, train, train. There is no substitute for skilled experience.
Rotella T6 diesel oil has more phosphorus and zinc than almost all oils. Phosphorus and zinc protect metal on metal wear. Both of these have been removed from oils due to fouling catalytic converters years ago per an enginneer from Amsoil. Your video reminded me of this. At 15w 40 I'm going to give it a go.
Isn't engine a relatively enclosed system? A gun isn't.
I agree with you. Guns are just metal on metal. You lube the metal, not a gun. Inexpensive auto lubricants work equally well in guns too.
10w 'gun' oil is actually free for many. If you change your own oil, there's enough left over to share with your firearms. My lawnmower takes 1.2 qts. That's .8 qts left over. 10w oil is super, super cheap.
You use the dirty oil to lube? I've thought about it but wouldn't you need to siphon out all the nasty shit? Some of it is acidic.
Daelkyr , I didn't mean used oil. I always have a little leftover new oil after oil changes. Used oil? I wouldn't.
Stanton Taylor I see. Good idea.
Daelkyr I use mobil 1 5w30 synthetic, that's what my truck takes. it takes 7quarts and I buy 5 quart jugs and fill up an old hoppes bottle. synthetic oil leaves a slick film even if you wipe it off. even after I clean my guns with hoppes and it evaporates my guns still feel like they have a slick coating on them. it's desighned to help during cold starts when your engine bearings are dry in that 1 to 2 seconds before your oil pump pushes oil through your engine. conventional oil doesn't but like he said I don't think you will ever run your gun enough to dry it out.
aLpha Guns and gaming check out the GunWriter.com on cleaning guns using Simple Green to clean the guns. I use SG HDPro the purple bottle solution.
Good info, great video. You're not the only person that has promoted motor oil. I forget the guy's name, but he put out a video on how to build an AR. He is the master gunsmith at JD Machine Tech in San Diego. He said that he had been using Mobil 1 for over 20 years.
Motor oil works just fine.
The only exception I would make is if you were going to store a gun long-term and not use it , or keep it in a high humidity place. Specific gun lubes do offer a better protection against rust.
Motor oils work fine in my cars!
Can u demonstrate how your grease and oil both piston and di rifles?
6.5x55Swede I guess im going to have to now lol
into the barrel extension. itll seep into the barrel, but the extension is what you're aiming for
yes, people refer to it as the star chamber.... inside of that. youll see in my video that the light is aimed directly at where that lube should go.
any time bud
+AregularGuy
I'd like to see that too.
In my country AK is the service military weapon, Russian factory recommend oil as a lube, car oil in ok but never never use grease.interesting information but remember, cars has a cooling system + 4 to 5 quart of oil.
So clean with wd40 and use motor oil for lube?
After every match (6+ times a month), my striker fired pistols get disassemble. Then I spray all parts (except the striker assembly) with a clp and blow out the dirt and grime with an air compressor. The barrel gets a bore cleaner and a thorough cleaning. The striker parts all get cleaned with alcohol and reassembled dry. Once everything is clean, I apply a very light coat of High Temperature, High Pressure aircraft wheel bearing grease to anything (except the striker assembly) that moves. This grease provides unfailing lubrication in any situation that a firearm can throw at you, and when it's time to clean up again EVERYTHING comes off real easy! As a former engineer for a jet engine manufacturer (and jet pilot) I found that engine oils are designed to 1st Cool, 2nd Clean (filtered), and lastly Lubricate an engine. We don't normally have cooling issues or oil filters on our weapons, so that leaves friction and pressures that have to be dealt with. You can use an oil if you want to, it is better than nothing, but certainly not the best. Just saying...
Break Free CLP is good and pretty cheap. It is effective in a wide range or conditions. If the military was only going for cheap, they would use motor oil.
+Johnny Pea I was a gunsmith in the army
if someone in the army use motor oil in any gun
his going to have a huge penalty
but do you want to start a war against the stupids ?
i don't
+John Sfixton military intelligence is an oxymoron
Not exactly, Motor oils ore constantly flowing through a filter that removes particles, carbon often. Motor oil, being an oil will drain from parts. setting over time. Synthetic a little less. Oil temps in a vehicle are subjected to vastly cooler temps than a running gun during a class or an engagement. The vehicle oil has a cooling system that reduces the building temps and passes that heat out either through the radiator or cooling fins as in a motorcycle. Rule of thumb if the parts slide on another part use a grease if the parts rotate around an axle or pin a oil consistency item. Automotive greases aren't designed to resist attracting debris, where some firearm greases are. The drag that automotive grease creates isn't there in high end firearm grease.
Julian P. It’s so funny that the most intellectual response on here doesn’t get any replies. But thanks for this. All that he was sayin in the video was very convincing and I knew there had to be something he was missing. And this definitely was what he missed.
First thing that came to my mind was the simple fact that greese collects debris. Something an open action is susseptable to
Motor oil is used in applications with clearances measured in the thousandths.... Temperatures in excess of 800 plus degrees . Yes , there is a filter...its a closed system and filters are about 60% effective, thats why you must change your oil. Automatic trans fluid takes an even harder beating...high temps, basic fiber filters, even closer tolerances and higher pressures. You change that about ever 25000 miles or so. No gun will even undergo that type of punishment. Automotive lubes are perfect for weapons...... 25 years ASE Master Mechanic.
Edward Harrison 25000 miles for a trans fluid change? You stuck in the 80s? Most cars now have 100k mile intervals for trans, as well as spark plugs. Oil changes intervals are lasting 10k miles.
Meanwhile the gun industry tries to sell us scented canola oil. I don't know, maybe I'd trust the automotive guys over the canola oil guys, but that's just me.
This makes perfect sense. Machine gunners use automatic transmission fluid. Gotta get some motor oil and a dedicated dropper now. Thanks, man.
How well does motor oil:
1. Inhibit lead, copper and carbon build up?
2. Remove lead, copper and carbon that that do manage to adhere to the surface?
3. Inhibit corrosion?
From where I sit, I have a pretty good deal with Slip 2000. I use EWL to clean the gun. The excess is wiped off with microfiber and q-tips, leaving a thin protective coating. Then I put EWG on the slide rails, and then I put EWL30 wherever it says to put gun oil. These three products cooperate and don't fight each other.
High temp bearing grease. Beats every "gun lube" out there. Cost one tenth of even motor oil.
I'd move to better conditions lol
Anthony Swiss you live in Canada or Alaska?
I live in Idaho. I haven’t wanted to test my rifle below -30’s
Grease is SHIT. It is designed for old steam locomotives and wheel bearings. Use a good quality oil and maybe clean and lubricate your gun a little more often, like every time you go to the range.
@Mark Belk I second that Mark. The Yankees can have that SHIT. I wish there was a way to solve the problem of them moving down to Florida for the Winter. Especially the New Yorkers and Canadian's.
@@thebusterdog6358 The easiest way to solve that problem is by simply not being such a huge dick...
Clear, concise, well thought out, great post.
I know I'm a little late to the party, but I have a genuine question. I've been sold on gun oils because the combustion rate is so much higher than that of an engine. Because of that higher combustion rate, don't you need an oil that stands up to the higher burn rates? Am I misinformed?
I would really like to be wrong in this case, because I love the idea of using the same oil that I change the oil with on my vehicle.
I like the idea of using motor oil as a lubricant for a cheaper alternative to CLP that works just as well. However, can I also use motor oil to clean my firearm - including the bore?
Good thoughts and insights. I started looking at using grease after seeing James Yeager use it on his AR BCG. You mentioned grease/oil being an issue at very low temps - what would you think about mixing in some Marvel Mystery oil (or some similar additive) with the oil for those cold temps? The obvious answer should be to test it, but I only live in RI, so it doesn't get that cold. Also, you mentioned not using a degreaser - what do you use?
-40 degrees you'll want Mobil 1 I've seen the comparison of automotive oils! And it outperformed all others it's really a non comparison!
destiny walker ever tested it at that temperature with a rifle? I use Mobil 1 for my M1 Garand
It gets down that cold here. But I don’t really want to be outside. I should really just suck it up and go play
I have used simple old white lithium grease on all of my firearms since 1988, need had a fail. my 1911 has over 9000 rounds down the pipe. The only thing I have changed is my barrel bushings. The old one was fine, I just wanted a stainless steel bushing.
Fun fact about engines: they have optimal operating temperatures between 180 and 220 ish degrees (Farenheit). Not only are these oils holding up with parts rubbing up against each other hundreds of thousands of times in a single session, but they're built to be at home in intense heat.
marvel mystery oil is something you guys ought to look at
Mobil-1 on all my guns. AR's run slicker than snot, 1911's, 9mm's, etc. The only gun I still use a little Tetra grease, is on the receiver and bolt of my M1A. I've been shooting and building firearms for decades. Virtually all the special gun oils are a complete waste of money.
Mobil-1.
What weight do you use?
I’ve used motor oil in the past. Items like Castrol syntec, slick 50, soaking high wear parts overnight. Not sure if it really made a difference. But the year is 2022 and the price of everything is ⬆️. So it looks like I’ll be getting some more motor oil 🙂
Synthetic oil has a pour point that is better than regular motor oil under extreme cold conditions. It stays fluid up to -45F while most motor oils will stay fluid to -33F and a secret oil is transmission oil that stays fluid to -55F.
I use to use Lucas Oil on my first AR. Now I use all the "cool stuff." Maybe I'm an idiot after all.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival Eh, we've all done less than sensible stuff when it comes to our guns. You're definitely not alone in using tacticool cleaners and lubricants.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival
Like ARG said the "Gun Lubes" work but you are paying 10 times more for it. Yes I know I can use motor oil and grease in a situation where I can't get my gun lube of choice and I would without a second thought. I would use 3 in 1 oil if I had to in a pinch.
+Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival I just recently switched over to Lucas Oil semi-synthetic engine assembly lube. I've been doing some research on lubes to re-evaluate what I use. I wanted something that would stay put more and decided to go to an auto store. I picked-up a tube of one of the grease similar to what Regular guy mentioned but as I looked at a bottom shelf, I saw these little white plastic bottles of the assembly lube. I picked it up and tore off the protective seal under the twist cap and dabbed my finger in it and it was a much thicker and tackier consistency. It was also this cool greenish color. Anyways, it includes some extreme pressure anti-wear additives such as zinc and moly and considering the thickness, I think it would stay on the gun better when being used and so far it has worked great. I have a CHL and I'm here in Texas and it gets hot. Many other gun oils will tend to run and week after week, the top of my chamber on my XDM still has a sheen on it from the Lucas Assembly Lube. Give that a try.
BlueonGoldZ
Back in the day, when I first began using it, I did so after I saw their gear display at my local auto parts store. I saw how the oil stayed with the gears, rather than allowing gravity to its thing. I thought I should use that in my guns, so I did. I never had any issues out of it, now matter how dirty. I would just wipe down the bolt carrier group and the chamber, then shoot on. I moved to Frog Lube after it became tacticool and I still use it. If it works, I will continue to use something. When I get low on it, I may move back to Lucas. I appreciate your reply, BTW. It's cool to have open conversations without the trolls.
Worldwide Bushcraft & Survival Yeah, no worries. Look-up Weapon Shield's videos on CZcams. He uses a Timken bearing machine to simulate wear. Frog Lube performed very poorly. I would stay away from it.
Yeah 0w_ will be better on everything. I say grease it all though. I've found AMSOIL synthetic all purpose red grease and off road #1 to be the best.
+1Motor oil is great for this application. I use Mobil 1, just because that's what I use in most of my vehicles.Almost everyone has motor oil around, even if it's for your lawnmower. No need to buy special "gun oil".If you want something a little "thicker" try a straight weight oil (30w or 40w oil) instead of a multi-weight.I use CLP for cleaning bolt assemblies, but wet them down with Mobil 1.
I bought Lucas bc it was on sale and i wanted the needle applicator but once its gone, im just filling the bottle with some left over unused amsoil from changing the oil in my Harley🤷♂️
Lucas oil?
Lucas makes some really good stuff - their gun lube is right up there too and it's very inexpensive.
W stands for "Winter" not weight. It signifies the viscosity at the lower range temperature. Other than that, good thought process.
Great presentation, I do use Synthetic wheel bearing grease in my My M14 bolt and op Rod and hoppes #9 for cleaning. I've thought of using synthetic oil for my 1911 .45's; a Colt Gov't and a Ruger SR1911. I follow the oiling principals of GunBlue490. I use only a film of oil and grease. Synthetic is good where I live because i does get cooler here and synthetic doesn't thicken up like regular oil. I shoot corrosive ammo in my M14 and I find the Hoppes #9 does a great job of removing the corrosive powder.
If it’s slides use grease. If it turns use oil.
i use bacon grease on my bcg and dip all ammo in same
Serious? Or trolling?
My fiends and I who happen to have military and law enforcement backgrounds, agree with you completely. We looked at this about 2 years ago and came to the same conclusion as you did. Why pay more when it is not necessary. Love your videos, keep them coming.
I clean everything on my guns with Auto Trans Fluid. It has more detergents than motor oils and will dissolve carbon buildup. Then put a light coat of Mobile 1 on any contact/slide points. For my AR's I clean what's needed besides the bolt group by hand. The bolt group I let soak overnight in a small container of ATF. The next day when I pull it out, the fluid is darker and I don't need to scrub anything, it's already clean. Let it drip dry for a couple hours (watch the carbon run off) and put a light coat of Mobile 1 on the slide rails. Done
1:42 Oil in cars is pumped through a filter and most of the debris is collected. Some performance cars cool it as well.
It works and you make good points but that comparison is lacking. For colder temperatures just go for a thinner oil. The upside of some firearm specific lubes can be in the cleaning, encasing of particles and so on but for the most part it isn't that important and additives are out there. The red mix has a lot of fans. I just stumbled over your channel and try some more. YT recommending lots of older videos.