Awkward Dining Experience
Vložit
- čas přidán 30. 06. 2024
- The restaurant was getting cold in the front and the air conditioner is running when it's 19* outside?
- Purchase your tools at www.trutechtools.com/?AffId=42 and use the offer code SURVIVAL to save 8% on your total purchase (exclusions may apply) -
- TOOLS I USE -
FULL LIST ON THIS PAGE - kit.co/hvacrsurvival
SHORT LIST IS BELOW
RIDGID 31305 Model E-110 9.5" Offset Hex Jaw Pipe Wrench - amzn.to/3Bar08y
Klein Tools Ratcheting Box Wrench 1/4 x 5/16 amzn.to/3GOpBrG
KNIPEX Tools - 10" Pliers Wrench amzn.to/3U7RRJf
KNIPEX Tools - 10" Cobra Water Pump Pliers amzn.to/3Wje8Wn
Knipex Tools - Mini Pliers in Belt Pouch amzn.to/3WguyyH
KNIPEX Tools - 4" Cobra XS Water Pump Pliers amzn.to/3UaQiKA
Bahco -6" Wide Mouth Adjustable Wrench amzn.to/3sHIsMV
Bahco - 8" Big-Mouth Adjustable Wrench with Rubber Handle - amzn.to/3SPhDB7
Knipex - 9.5-Inch Ultra-High Leverage Lineman's Pliers amzn.to/3DTLJ2h
Klein Tools Diagonal Cutting Pliers with Angled Head - amzn.to/3zuBVJb
Klein Tools Stripper, Crimper Tool - amzn.to/3gQQ6Su
Klein Tools Wire Cutter and Wire Stripper - amzn.to/3Fs627W
Klein Tools Kurve Wire Cutters, Heavy Duty Wire Stripping Tool - amzn.to/3FseIuW
Klein Tools Heavy Duty Automatic Wire Stripper - amzn.to/3SQdZab
Klein Tools Crimping and Cutting Tool - amzn.to/3TPIgXU
Klein Tools Screwdriver Adjustable 4 to 8-Inch amzn.to/3Nl6KWz
IDEAL INDUSTRIES Digital Circuit Breaker Finder - amzn.to/3DoBFwm
Fluke 376FC AC/DC Clamp Meter with iFlex - amzn.to/3UaNyx2
Fluke 62 Max Industrial Infrared Thermometer - amzn.to/3SNdwWg
Fluke 902 FC HVAC True-RMS Clamp Meter - amzn.to/3Ws7OfB
Fluke 87V MAX - amzn.to/3U6Rlv9
Fluke Networks Pro3000 Tone Generator - amzn.to/3WedklG
Fluke - FLUKE-52 Dual Input Digital Thermometer amzn.to/3zwFdf1
Ideal Safe-T-Grip Fuse Puller - amzn.to/3zsw2w4
Klein Tools Canvas Zipper Bag - amzn.to/3WgnJxq
Uni-Paint PX-20 Oil-Based Paint Marker - amzn.to/3sE3R9T
5 Gallon Bucket Topper and Organizer - amzn.to/3sGi2Ll
Stabila Magnetic Pocket Level PRO with Holster - amzn.to/3FtYLo0
Clip & Carry Kydex Multitool Sheath for LEATHERMAN SURGE - amzn.to/3TPJfHA
Kydex Multitool Sheath for LEATHERMAN WAVE & WAVE + PLUS - amzn.to/3sJlhlg
Cooper Atkins Thermistor Thermometer - amzn.to/3DLeHkC
GEARWRENCH Internal/External Ratcheting Puller 7 Ton 2 or 3 Jaw - amzn.to/3FxTU5l
💥 Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/ref=as_li_ss_t...
- CONTACT INFO -
hvacrsurvival@gmail.com
- FOLLOW ME -
Instagram - / hvacrsurvival
Facebook - / hvacrsurvival
Warning Notice Disclaimer - Video content listed on the channel HVAC*R Survival is for entertainment purposes only and not meant to be a substitute for not contacting a competent HVAC/R PROFESSIONAL. Do not attempt anything said or seen on my videos, The tasks that are shown are dangerous and deadly without proper training.
This page contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on the link and make a purchase, I’ll receive a small commission. HVAC/R Survival is a participant in the Trutechtools, Fenix-Store & Amazon Services LLC Associates Program.
#hvacrsurvival #hvaclife #hvacservice #hvacr #refrigeration #troubleshooting
00:00 TruTech Tools
00:33 The makeup air unit
01:27 look what I find
02:59 checking the motor starter
04:59 making adjustments to the motor protector
07:18 checking the burner
08:41 checking the RTU that controls the area that was cold
09:21 look at what else I found
10:59 carbon monoxide info
12:22 more surprise's the compressor is running
13:47 diagnosing the economizer control
15:58 checking the thermostat
20:31 verifying what is wrong with the economizer control
22:21 visual investigation shows water damage
22:51 finishing touches - Zábava
Working on my company's equipment. If you ever want to confirm the heater is working on those MUA units stick a temp sensor in the same spot as the discharge air sensor. Then activate heat and pull the #4 wire off the amplifier. That forces it into high fire. Adjust the gas on the main valve so you're getting roughly 70 degrees TD. Then put the #4 wire back and pull the #5 wire which forces it into low fire. The modulating valve has a blue cap on the side where you adjust low fire trying to achieve 10-13 TD. Once you got that put the #5 wire back and adjust the amplifier to a temp and give it a minute or two and see if you're reading within a few degrees of what you set it to. Sometimes the discharge air sensors go bad so it makes them over or under fire by a lot.
That's all great information that I have to look up when I work on them👍👍
@@HVACRSurvival if you need/want some CaptiveAire manuals or anything let me know. I've sent PDFs to Chris at hvacr videos before including our newer Paragon DOAS units that are becoming very popular since our lead time is weeks vs other companies months
hvacrsurvival@gmail.com send what you got. 👍👍 Usually what you just told me is the main thing I need but I'll take anything you got.
@@HVACRSurvival sent attached the resistance chart for the discharge sensors too
I thought it was terminals 3 and 8 on the amplifier but 100 percent correct, set pilot, high fire, low fire then verify it modulates to supply air temperature.
Rick, your content is amazing ! Thank you for sharing !
Rule of thumb is 10% extra to go from 230 to 208
The first thing I do when an rtu is running mechanical cooling in cold weather is ohm out the outdoor air sensor. 9 times out of 10 that's the problem.
Here in Houston, lots of the restaurants have the A/C going even when it's in the 50's outside. I've been shivering in the front while waiting for the food. In one case, I helped the manager get the thermostat control switched to heat mode - someone'd been buggering the buttons. I ended up popping the cover off of the white/rogers switch, setting the switches and buttons back in place (broken loose), and seating the case back on. Then they could use the buttons and levers.
sadly, that was probably the previous "HVAC" techs...
@@throttlebottle5906 - nah. This looked like button smacking damage, plus dropping the cover plate on the floor when replacing batteries. I have no problems pointing the finger when warranted, but this wasn't.
Another great video! And the place will save a little energy by not running the air conditioner for the kitchen when it is 19F outside! Reminds me of a call I got one night, while I was at a concert, the back up on call guy was pretty new, it was 50F outside, and he had a call for a computer server room fed by a 3 ton rooftop Carrier unit. I told him to take off the air filter cover, so it would take in about 50% outside air. He asked "Why". (he was very new). On Monday, I installed a fan cycling switch so the head pressure would stay high enough to not trip the unit on low suction pressure.
I have found freezers with two fans, and nothing to shut off one of the fans when below 55F outside!
Yep, we will stage multiple fans as it gets colder if it's a large condenser with several fans.
Master built. Great content!
Thanks 👍👍
Hell yeah! It's MUA season, I got one coming soon. Nice job Rick,
Thanks Steve!
Sadly from my experience on those Fluke 900 series clamp meters, they do not do well over 2k Ohms of resistance. I find myself thinking a 10K Honeywell TR21 is bad because mine is not reading any resistance. But I double check it with my 17B in the truck and I suddenly have resistance.
My fluke 376fc and 902fc both are rated at 60k ohm.
19 degree's really ? My wife runs about 15 -16 degrees ... Uh Oh I gotta go I think she's pulling into the garage 😂😅🤣 Good vid as usual ...
😂
thanks for your password 😂😂😂
lol I'm not worried about that as much as the customers name being shown.
Nice video Rick
Impressive troubleshooting
Thank you!
T-series thermostats are horrible. A Pro 8000 would be better. I agree with changing to a Jade controller.
Upgrading to the JADE would get 2 new sensors, ordering the kit, and that may be in stock rather than just the sensor.
As you stated, the JADE would make things much better.
For some reason I did not think the new sensors worked on the old controls. It has been awhile since I dealt with one, though.
Depends what sensors were talking about. The thermistor is the same I believe. The other sensors are communicating on the buss network.
You need to look for service facto ( SF) on the name plate to know how to set overload over FLA.
sadly not everything is labeled with service factor. so you crapshoot it. worse case it burns up and you pout a larger motor in or don't and keep replacing it as job assurance(LOL) no don't to that, the junk breaks way too much as is. one good parts shortage and the "world" is forked
Anything you say I will quote LOL! You are doing a great job would you please try to keep your little self warm. I know it is impossible I hope people appreciate what you do! I know we have maintenance in the building I live in now they get on the roof they take care of our heating and our whole entire building. And I make sure and tip them on a regular basis. You know oddly enough if I ask for something they're here in about 30 seconds. I appreciate them tremendously. I never realized I've lived in a retirement condominium! But these people are a blessing! And people ought to understand you are a blessing!
Your always so nice! You have me curious, did you use to be in the field or just a curious person like me?
19 Degree’s! Hope that’s Celsius😀- Good video / stay Warm Rick 🥶
No we're Fahrenheit. 19F = -7*C
I've never worked on a allied or even heard of them, but I know with carrier I believe it is you economize it is stage 1 in the winter and then stage two cooling would bring in compressor one and then if all else fails and it can still not reduce the temperature it closes the economizer and brings on stage two therefore you running full cooling
I'm a carrier dealer and use to do lennox, the control in this video was the same they use in the carrier. (the older ones)
On dual belt applications, I always find one belt just slightly looser than the other. Drives me crazy. They never seem to wear evenly.
because blower and motor shaft alignment is off some, it needs a dual adjustable tensioner plate and adjusted so the tension is even "via tension gauge" and making sure the shafts are perfectly parallel when under tension. they're likely prepositioned to try and correct for wear, which may make it eat the outer belt first, then as it wears the inner gets loose and eaten first.
really, in my opinion, it's a big waste of time, because things move around from hard starts, change as bearings age, the belts will never "stretch" evenly, nor the sheaves wear the same(cheap/dirty recycled metals). so pretty much give everything the stink-eye and get it as close as possible without wasting hours.
Good job Rick.
🤝🤜🤛👍👍
I've replaced a few of those enthalpy controls..
Wasn't taking the biscuits to the baker .lol
I hate when the bread gets stale 🤣
@@HVACRSurvival decent steak there
I never worked on a Raw Dog system ever . Learning new ,old terms .
Really? LOL they are great!
@@HVACRSurvival Raw dog had a different meaning in my day😂
Those crappy sightglasses! I take and remove it, replace it with 4x4 box cover. Cover easily removes for future service, super cheap.
They're definitely harder to evaluate the color
It is 24 here in South Florida today... wait, that is in C. It is 76F, sort of chilly.
🐿️🤔😉🤣
Yeah economizers in Florida is a waste of time. We had a very large hobby store had 18 units. Their engineer demanded we reconnect all free cool and economizers back up. They had no humidity control. 3 days later. They called and said it was raining in the store. Was raining outside At 40 degrees. Humidity in store 94%. Engineer ask what happened? Said I told you it was a mistake to use free cool in Florida. He wanted to know. If we where going to charge him to disconnect the free cool. 😆
That's interesting, the ones I've used take humidity into the calculation when to use the free cool or not. Maybe it was O.D temp only?
@@HVACRSurvival OD temp only. 98% humidity 45 degrees outside. Free cool all 18 units. Water was dripping from exposed steel framing
@@14312KIDS that sounds like a disaster. Of course I don't understand why a hobby store would have such a large heat load when it's 45° outside?
You do know. Thermistors where first used. Back in the 60s. They determined to be unreliable. Because they fail in just a few years. Unlike the mechanical controls that sometimes outlasted the equipment. Then all of a sudden in the 80s. They where brought back in as new technology. There are chain stores we service. All newer YORK. I carried spare sensors. Always can find at least one that is bad on one of the units. I said the same thing you did. Needs new sensors. I would replace all of them. They are cheap and all the same age. Thermistors go bad overtime.
I have a lot of thermistors fail in my ice cream machines because of the temps they run at but I haven't lost many mixed air temp sensors. But your right I should have ordered it,
👍👍 Nice job 👍 👍
Thanks 👍
I wonder what it is with Fluke clamp meters and resistance ranges. They top out at 60K on the better meters like yours. Some are as low as 4K. While my Extech is a cheap meter compared to a Fluke, it will measure up to 40M according to the spec sheet. Accuracy at that end, who knows?
It's Fluke, Fluking you in the ass. But they know there stuff holds up. I wasted money on Fieldpiece, UEI, Amprobe, none of them have lasted like these Flukes have.
it's hard to be accurate over such a huge range, so the magical ones that claim huge ranges are most always not worth a "hill of beans" at either end of the scale, but some may be better at one end vs. the other.
you may be better off with a resistor decade box, with label printed stuck to it for the settings. then again that may be too much fiddle farting around, but it would be widely selectable for the unknown junk you have to look up or call tech support on.
then again, maybe just bypass all that useless junktronics crap with simple controls and let them deal with burnt out large components. "danged if you do danged if you don't" lol
Ruff and Warsh 😂
Did I say that in this one? 😂
Are you starting to see any Commercial VRF units installed?
I see them in some of the higher end equipment.
@@HVACRSurvival It seems it should be the way to go for new builds, all those air paths must take up a lot of building space.
Ha Rick did you make a video on your jumper box
I did one on the car jump start and one Opus 120v power box. I'm getting a 3800 watt whole house solar power system to review.
19 😮
I'm thinking about laser eye surgery, is it worth it? I can't see shit from 10 meters onward, close up its fine.
The best money I ever spent. Just do a lot of research on the Dr and the laser they use, Those are the only eyes you get....
@@HVACRSurvival I'm thinking of going to our military institute of medicine (I'm from Poland), dear mom had few surgeries done there and the staff was top notch compared to other places, for eyes they use Carl Zeiss machine, their optics are used for making latest generation semiconductors so I think its good on that front
👍
👍👍👍👍👍👀
347 thumbs up
👍