Well done! One of the best step by step videos on this topic. Thank you for posting this. Update: Finished mine today. Went well but finding a 41/64th drill to ream out the push rod to the same diameter as the original one was tough. The 2011 hydro-boost that I installed in my 2006 is a big improvement on braking. But the hole on the push rod is slightly undersized. Hence the 41/64th drill. Once we got that done, it went well. Thanks again!!
@@wolfsmane I can't say definitively as I didn't even try, but I don't think the playoff is worth the squeeze. Seals and so forth involved I'd think. Just ream that hole out and wa-la
How do you know if your hydroboost is no longer working my pedal is soft pads are good pushed the rear pistons in when doing the parking pads wonder ifI need to lead the breaks my service brake system warning message is on as well.
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad i gut change mine but the brake pedal is all the way down. i get pressure only when i lift up the brake pedal. I don't know what i did wrong. Can you please give me an advise
I didn't hear you say why you were changing out the hydro boost or how to diagnose a problem with it. I have an 06 GMC dump truck and am not sure if I need a new master cylinder or a new hydro boost or both.
Has to been the plastic brake switch that goes on the pin for the brake peddle. I had to replace mine, but it was awhile after doing the swap. It kicks the cruise control off as well.
changed my 03 gmc booster and it does shift out of park ok but the brakes seem like they are applied barely moves! Also the throw on the pedal is right there when you touch them with no to little play. Any ideas!
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad strongly recommend everybody out there to get an OEM boost. Aftermarket didn't have the brake push rod, spring, and star looking retaining washer. Nobody sells em separate. Broke the old star washer Went OEM Also The one I worked on, the clip on the brake pedal was a whore to remove. There's a 10mm bolt which has plastic around it where it fits into the clip. DO NOT FUCKING REMOVE THE BOLT! Doing so ruins the clip but you won't know that until you try to drive it and the fucker falls off. Lastly, there is a brake pedal position sensor way up in there that you won't see at first. In 2 miles, I couldn't get up to 40mph. Didn't understand why it threw a check engine light. The truck thought I was standing on the brakes.
I know this is late but the line on the driver side is a 15mm and the line on the passenger side is an 18mm. I managed to get away with being very careful and using the open end of my wrenches to break them loose and remove them
Great video! We need to also change the high pressure lines on the 04 Duramax we rescued from the auction. Fluid all over our fresh suspension job!🙃
Thank you!!😃
Perfect! Working on this now and needed to know about that clip
Subscribed to you from both our channels here in thanks for the information that helped us get that clip
Well done! One of the best step by step videos on this topic. Thank you for posting this.
Update: Finished mine today. Went well but finding a 41/64th drill to ream out the push rod to the same diameter as the original one was tough. The 2011 hydro-boost that I installed in my 2006 is a big improvement on braking. But the hole on the push rod is slightly undersized. Hence the 41/64th drill. Once we got that done, it went well. Thanks again!!
Thank you!!!
Thanks for the tip
notice any improvement in steering feel? easier to turn when stopped?
Maybe a dumb question, can the rod be taken out and swapped? I haven't done this repair yet and was curious.
@@wolfsmane I can't say definitively as I didn't even try, but I don't think the playoff is worth the squeeze. Seals and so forth involved I'd think. Just ream that hole out and wa-la
By far the best tutorial!
Thanks
I'll be doing my LB7
Thank you!!
The brake pedal clip was kicking my butt thanks I know the rest of the job snag thanks
Excellent job, thanks for the inf.
Thank you!!
FYI the studs holding the master reservoir are right hand removable & gives way more room when removing hydroboost
Good to know!!!
Thanks Buddy.
great video!
Thank you!!
My mechanic. He helps replace Tha this weekend
Thank you!
Best informative video
Thank you!!🙂
Great informative video.
Thank you!!😀
Thought I had the only 2006 Chevy Duramax LBZ CC with only one thousand miles on it.
How do you know if your hydroboost is no longer working my pedal is soft pads are good pushed the rear pistons in when doing the parking pads wonder ifI need to lead the breaks my service brake system warning message is on as well.
Normal reasons for changing are it is leaking and or steering issues is why I did mine. Couldn't steer while braking.
thank you .very professional
Thank you!!
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad i gut change mine but the brake pedal is all the way down. i get pressure only when i lift up the brake pedal. I don't know what i did wrong. Can
you please give me an advise
@@danielmagyari Did you bleed all the air out of the system? Sounds like air.
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad thank you for taking time to respond.i have missing the brakes rod so I took from the old one
Subscribed 🎉
Thank you!!
I didn't hear you say why you were changing out the hydro boost or how to diagnose a problem with it. I have an 06 GMC dump truck and am not sure if I need a new master cylinder or a new hydro boost or both.
I changed because of steering issues. When they go bad in the trucks you loose the ability to steer well while braking. It took care of the problem
did upgrade on my 06 duramax with 2011 hydro boost went on no problem But now no brake lights any ideas how to fix thanks
Has to been the plastic brake switch that goes on the pin for the brake peddle. I had to replace mine, but it was awhile after doing the swap. It kicks the cruise control off as well.
Thanks I’ll give it a shot 👍
I just replaced mine and the brake pedal vibrates when I step on it I’m thinking the air got in to the system can you can give me some info?
Did you bleed it out like the video shows?
What do you do if air does get in the lines pump or w.e mine is making noise I'm sure it's that and not the belt
Just follow the purging procedure I did here with a hose. All of the air will blead out.
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad sounds good appreciate it
Is it normal to have black oily dusty mudgy all over the master cylinder and underneath the turbo resonator? I have a LLY, it looks just like yours
It is not. Some thing is leaking and needs repaired. Clean everything off and watch where it is coming from.
Is your power steering hard at certain times?
changed my 03 gmc booster and it does shift out of park ok but the brakes seem like they are applied barely moves! Also the throw on the pedal is right there when you touch them with no to little play. Any ideas!
Sounds like the wrong booster, or a bad one. It should have play.
Changed mine on a 2002 gmc any reason why it won’t shift out of park?
Brake switch for sure
Good job did you needed to bleed the brakes with this job?
I did not since nothing was done with the master cylinder.
Thankyou so much
DO you drain the fluid out before starting this job?
I didn't
Can I use the 2011 Hydroboost for my 2006 LBZ 3500 Dually.
Yes, but the hole for the brake peddle pin is slightly smaller and will need to be opened up
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad What drill bit size is it to make hole larger.
Can you show where the hydro boost was leaking from?
It wasn't leaking. I changed it because of a weak pedal and hard to steer
What is the size for take off the line?
3/8 ID clear hose from Lowes. I stated that in the video.
What size are those tires, and wheels?
33x12.5x20
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad could you also share the offset of the wheel? I have the same truck as you, and love the look
@@brianholzworth7270 I will check
Doing a 2013 GMC 2500HD right now. Wish I didn't take the master cylinder completely off the truck. Looked like it wouldn't be far enough away
There is room and the studs connecting them unscrew as well giving more room if needed
@@DownNDirty_OffRoad strongly recommend everybody out there to get an OEM boost.
Aftermarket didn't have the brake push rod, spring, and star looking retaining washer. Nobody sells em separate. Broke the old star washer
Went OEM
Also
The one I worked on, the clip on the brake pedal was a whore to remove. There's a 10mm bolt which has plastic around it where it fits into the clip.
DO NOT FUCKING REMOVE THE BOLT!
Doing so ruins the clip but you won't know that until you try to drive it and the fucker falls off.
Lastly, there is a brake pedal position sensor way up in there that you won't see at first. In 2 miles, I couldn't get up to 40mph. Didn't understand why it threw a check engine light. The truck thought I was standing on the brakes.
@@mr.nobody68 I only buy OEM!!
What size flare nut wrench is that
I know this is late but the line on the driver side is a 15mm and the line on the passenger side is an 18mm. I managed to get away with being very careful and using the open end of my wrenches to break them loose and remove them
I'll come back to see how you bled the lines
Raise the front of the vehicle only and turn the steering wheel lock to lock about 20 times it’ll get the air out. Not that hard.
Got to use the correct power steering fluid or it will take out the seal on your brake booster, just saying. happened on my 85 chevy.