High tolerance prints on a budget printer | Kingroon KP3S Pro
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 12. 2022
- I'll show you how to tune your 3d printer and develop a profile for a standard 3D printer that can print really high tolerance parts for robotics and other mechanical assemblies.
STLS and the fusion project for the models I used are available at: github.com/roTechnic/PrinterC...
The Printer I used in this video is the Kingroon KP3s Pro and it is available at:
s.zbanx.com/r/yNbVohCXqrYM
(this is an affiliate link)
If you use the code BF3P you can get $20 off.
The KP3S Pro is a cantilever-style 3D printer with linear guide rails on both X and Z-axis to enhance printer head stability and accuracy for increased printing quality.
Based on a Titan direct drive extruder with a 3:1 gear ratio, Kingroon KP3S Pro is able to print various 3D printing materials, including PLA, flexible materials like TPU and PETG, and abrasive and strong filaments like ABS.
95% pre-assembled for about 15 minutes of quick installation. - Věda a technologie
I have 5 Kingroons and did not understand these settings before. Thank you
Great to see someone focusing on the print quality and dimensional accuracy!
well... That's the best 3d printer tuto I see ^^'
I've always struggle and never know why.
I loved the video. You have a knack for precise demonstration and understandable explanations done in a calm voice in a short time. And great aesthetics of your man cavern too. 👍👍 Those two are because CZcams only lets me give one ☺️
Wow, thank you!
I just found your channel and this video tonight. You're guide with the Cura settings was very easy to follow. I know there is a lot of other channels with information on calibrating esteps and other printer settings but I'd really like to see your take on a guide going through those steps and using test prints.
This is a great channel, one of CZcamss hidden gems! I was looking to understand IK for my current hobby project and have since learned quite a lot from your other videos which will help me along with my project too. Your understanding of the topics and ability to explain key elements concisely plus your relaxed style of delivering structured content whilst still keeping it interesting leads me to suspect you may already be a teacher, a 'seasoned educator' I'd guess at. Anyway, It appears we share a few interests, and I'm looking forward to more of your videos! Till next time...
Wow, thank you very much. I'm not a teacher - nowhere near actually, but I'm loving making these videos and explaining things on them. New videos are on their way in the next few days, please keep commenting on them, I'd really like to know what you think.
wow, his voice is so relaxing. feels like I'm watching an ASMR video :)
I really appreciate the effort you put into your scriptwriting. Thank you!
thanks for the content! with linear y-axis rails this looks like the Kingroon KP3S Pro S1 🤔
Thank you for your descriptive and instructive explanation, I'm following
Very helpful and nicely explained. Thanks!
Can't believe I just stumbled upon this channel! I love this!
One small thing, can you please fix you audio? The sound needs to be increased and balanced
Small note: I used to like using horizontal expansion settings but then I noticed that for the hole horizontal expansion settings, it causes visible defects in your models where you transition from a hole to a none hole piece of geometry, like if a hole is right beside a vertical rod. So now, any adjustments I need, I do in cad, or with slight modification of the outer wall flow.
interesting, thank you
True. You really should've changed your motor step size on a square the same size as the print bed
Making it have more steps/mm also would've made your ID grow as well!
Much better is to switch the wall order to "outer first" which greatly improves dimensional accuracy of holes and everything in general. Tradeoff is that overhangs come out a bit worse. But if you don't have steep overhangs, definitely use that setting.
I've been on this quest, amongst others, with the kp3s. I've done rails on all axis, abl, volcano nozzle/heat block, titanium hb, new extruder carriage with 4020 HE fan and dual ball bearing 5015 blower. Next, once I actually can afford to stop printing with it, a 115w ceramic volcano length heatblock with 300degree thermistor, CHT nozzle and adapter, bmg extruder, good belts, belt tensioners on x&y axis, an mks pi with 3.5" touchscreen for switching to klipper, a 60mm nema17 for the y axis and a 42mm nema 17 for the x axis and an enclosure. If all of that pans out well and I can push faster than the 150mms with 1500accel and jerk @ 12, while keeping quality, I'll do it to my other one.
Nice, You should be able to get above 2000 accel and near 200mm/s once you have installed klipper
Mind blown! 🤯
Brilliant video - im planning on using all these tips! One pet peeve though - the video title should be low tolerance prints (as if you have low tolerance for error, you get more precise parts :)
thanks, i really like your videos sir!
great video, thanks
Great video! Super useful
Glad it was helpful!
Классное видео по использованию куры )
The thing about the KP3s Pro is that its approaching the price of a Neptune 3 Pro, which is likely the better choice for everyone with its larger volume, dual z, auto bed levelling, , pendant control screen.
I think the KP3s at its 160 dollar USD price point is therefore a lot more appealing than the bigger brother the KP3s Pro. If it at least had auto bed levelling and a fixed or /more solidly mounted bed I could see a recommendation for it, but as it is meh. The least they could have done was have linear rails on all 3 if it was supposed to be a big selling point. I guess the upgraded model featured fixes that, but then the glaring abl omission still exists.
I think for a modern printer abl is probably the largest ease of use feature addition for most people.
As for the precision, I bet the linear guides help in the long term due to no flatspots forming like with v rollers but I feel generally speaking every printer is as precise as every other printer nowadays since theyre all using similar enough motors belts and drivers.
I haven’t played with the Neptune, but if anyone want to send me a free one, I’ll compare them!
Very nice! I hadn't considered coasting before. Maybe this is just me, but when I've dialed in the flow rate in with a wall it caused under extrusion. Similar to 3:34 where I can see small gaps in the walls. I think it's due to the single wall having ridges, while cura assumes a rectangular cross section. I just dial in the e steps with 100% flow instead and use horizontal expansion.
Edit: this vid explains it better than I can czcams.com/video/xyrC0vVNGMs/video.html
oh, that’s really interesting. I’ll have to look into that. thanks.
Wow, thanks!
oh yeah, i love that printers non pro version! i managed to do a benchy in like 20 minutes with it
yeah, this one was whipping out 17 minute benchies with no issues!
Love your videos!
Don't forget to add a disclaimer next to the link as it is an affiliate link and you may run afoul of regulations (or CZcams rules?) around that topic.
done, thank you
Great tutorial, thanks. What retractions are used in this test?
Great video, new subscriber has anyone done a video or series of videos explaining the purpose of all those mysterious settings in cura?
Great Vid,
Gotta find a way to keep this one handy for my precision parts days?
Can you or anyone tell me, " which types of filaments" a Kingroon KP3S Pro cannot handle ?
Alright i made up my mind. Gonna get this one. I wanted to get a prusa cause it looks robust, then ender, now ive decided to get thid one. Looks robust good price.
I haven't played with either of the others you mentioned so can't compare, but the KP3S Pro seems really nice for the price
Cantilever arm, these could wobble ^^at a distance
RoTechnic, at which point do you stop trying to dial in physical parts of the printer, and focus on the slicer side? I have seen arguments that changing some of these settings in cura are "bandaid fixes". They may be, but judging by the quality of these test prints (and your regular prints) these are necessary final steps.
Good evening, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Could you tell me what nozzle you use, and is it possible to share the stl of the base of the robot, thank you
good evening. I used a normal 0.4mm nozzle in this video. the stops are linked in my previous videos.
Really good video. 2 things to ask you. Do you have your Cura profile ready to download ? And now a stupid question, how do you change your filament ? I'm noob but each time I have to change it I was heating the extruder (200º) and after that, pulling the filament but some times a small part block my 3d printer and I don't know if it's better cut the filament on the top. Thanks
Hi, thanks. I don't have my profile for download as I find they vary even between printers of the same model. I'd suggest that you start with the default profile and then increase acceleration by 100mm/s/s on a test print until you find the limit - then do the same with speeds but only increase by 20mm/s. after about 6 or so prints you should have a nice fast profile.
Changing filament: I do the same as you, but if you're having a blockage, you might want to do the change at a lower temperature (say 170 degrees c) which will keep the filament much more intact but should still be more than hot enough to allow you to pull it out
I've gotten into the habit with my printers and with the KP3S Pro especially due to the funky PTFE lined heat break, of extruding about 10mm of filament before pulling the filament out. This gets rid of the "hot" filament sitting in the heat break that likes to leave behind strings and blobs of partially melted filament. I heat to 170c, depress the extruder tensioning arm, manually push the filament out about 10mm, then quickly pull the filament out of the hot end. You'll feel the resistance change as the warmed filament leaves the tube and gets replaced with the cooler filament you just quickly pushed in. I haven't had a single clog since starting this.
@@blakewaters4063 I was doing the same as you but some (random) times, the extruder is blocked. Thats the reason I asked about how to do that. Thank you for the answer
I am trying to print the same test STL files that you have in your video. I have clicked on your link for github and I have managed to download a file, but I have no idea how to open it in my slicer sofware and I cant find people explaining how to do it. If you can tell us (me) how to do that. Thank would be great. Also, great video because of this video I got the Kingroon and I love it so far.
Do you still need help?
@@TuncayAyhan
Yeah that'd be great. It's always good to learn new things
I didn’t know you could essentially adjust the e steps in cura. Do you just save the profile once you calibrate it? On my Ender v3 you can do it right from its onboard screen. I couldn’t find these options in the Kingroon so that is how I found this video. Is there a way to do it through the printer?
The problem I've found is different filaments require different settings, so I find it easiest to adjust it in cura and then I can have a different profile for each filament. You can do it using Marlin by sending the M92 command. I normally do this to make sure all my printers have the same baseline, and then set the flow in cura on a per filament basis.
@@roTechnic thanks. I just opened my Kingroon the other day. My first try the wiring coming out of the extruder pinched between the vertical support and the extruder making a grinding noise because it couldn’t hit the end point. Not sure if that was the cause but once I figured that out mine misses the bed on its initial clean out stripe on the side. Just spits the filament off the side.
1) is there a way to adjust the X starting point so the filament goes on the bed?
2) if I hit home ALL the extruder lines up before the bed in both X and y directions so the tip is not touching the bed. Is that normal? How do I adjust I’d not. My Ender is not like that.
3) if I level on the center point it’s not quite exactly the center of the bed. Should it be?
4) when I used the five leveling points, I get all four corners perfectly level with the paper test only to find out the dead center was way too tight. Not sure how this is possible or how to fix it. It doesn’t even seem possible unless the bed sags everywhere but the middle. I’m am experienced at proper distance between extruder and bed and leveling. You can help me with any of those questions. I’d really appreciate it. I’m kind of stuck.
@@roTechnic I've been messing with this all day. My Z is good on the 20mm test cube. The X and Y are short (19.7mm). I have tried to adjust the "flow" all the way to 110% and 120% yet it changes nothing on the next test cube. I am reslicing and resaving to the disk between prints. I don't understand what i am doing wrong. Also, the wall thickness never changes either. It always printing .4 whether set to .4 or the stock .44. It doesn't seem like anything i am changing is applying.
Quick question, i was designing a robotic arm in CAD but i was wondering, how do you deal with tolerances and keep components from fusing together when 3D printing?
For parts that don't mesh together (basically anything but gears & cycloids) I just add a 0.2mm tolerance by using push/pull on each surface. For gears and anything else which needs a tight tolerance I tend to leave it as is and use the settings in this video to make sure that they fit. Occasionally I'll need to go back and shrink the part in fusion using push/pull on the surfaces, but to be fair I haven't had to do that in a while. that's why I like these settings so much!
@@roTechnic Thanks!
I must try to 3D print a "Rock-ta-pus"🤣🤣
Hey i want to learn about the inverse kinematics and here my question is , if i want to move a servo motor like o to 5 degree ,then by normal code i can do it easily with write. But i want to move my motor with inverse kinematics to how can i will write the on aurdino ide please help
have you seen my video from last year on simple inverse kinematics? I explain exactly that there!
Yeah i seen that its easy and food but i am working on a humanoid robot kf 18dof so while walking I don't able to understand where to start , its become complex can you suggest where i can learn more about this
Would you please consider mirroring this on Odysee?
I'd never heard of Odysee before! Is there much demand for this kind of content there?
It look like cheaper version od Prusa mini
yeah, that was my first impression too!
You helped me make pretty accurate 3D prints. I do take note of what @Beef_Ignot mentioned and adjust when needed, but wow great results, a massive thanks for sharing!