How to make butcher block oil.
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2018
- If you are not interested in making your own, you can purchase mine online at:
simpletoncreation.com/collect...
What are the best ingredients to make your own cutting board/butcher block oil? Learn the process in this ease to follow video. - Jak na to + styl
Loved it, straight to the point, informative, simple and clear . Thank you Sir.
Good job mate. Excellent point about a rag just soaking up the wax - that hadn't really occurred to me before! Thanks again.
Thanks for the great cutting board info. Just fyi, if you put the wax pot, candle holders or any other wax thing you want to remove wax from, just put it in the freezer for an hour or two and the wax pops right off😊
Great tip!
When you're finishedwith the "wax pan", pour out the excess and then just wipe it out with the paper towel while it's still warm... Wash it with hot soapy water and it's squeaky clean every time.
I was just getting ready to oil my cutting board! Thank you! Great video. I subscribed to your channel. Great videos with excellent information! Thanks again!
I just posted a new video on other uses for this stuff. Check it out if you get a chance. Thanks. Tom
I already had both of the items needed, wax and mineral oil. Now I have a idea on the ratio of one to the other. I knew there would be only a little wax but, how little? Video gave me a idea on that. I plan to put this on a bamboo cutting board. I also learned there is really no need in getting the more expensive coconut oil which is a plus.
Nice video.
I have three large cutting boards that I use in my kitchen. I first checked the market where I shop for mineral oil. I thought that the price was too expensive. I then checked the Dollar Store near my house. They didn't have any mineral oil. I then checked the local drug store. They had mineral oil, it still was more than I wanted to spend. (I'm extremely cheap!) I then checked on Amazon. I found that I could purchase a box of several bottles of mineral oil for the amount that I would spend for a couple of bottles at the drug store. The mineral oil ordered from Amazon is food safe and inexpensive. I'm a happy old camper!
I bought a gallon of it on Amazon for $17.55. You may not need that much.
I'm going to try the fractionated coconut oil recipe. Looking forward to coating my wooden utensils with it!
I find lots of other uses for the stuff too. I even used it on leather boots the other day. Thanks for watching.
Just made some at 4-1 ratio. Its a nice soft paste wax persey... I will try the 9-1 see how well it works.
Would MCT oil work as well as fractionated coconut oil do you think? According to a quick google it appears to be pretty close to interchangeable as a food. I just cleaned an old chopping board that I’d thought I’d ruined so it has been just sitting in the cupboard for years. I got the smell of cinnamon out of it! Yay! But now it really needs an oil! I have beeswax and I have MCT oil. I won’t be going shopping for at least 3 weeks and would rather not leave it sitting there looking so dry for that long. I’m so happy I got it clean! It was a gift and I love it and was so disappointed that my phase of spray oil and cinnamon on crackers from years ago had ruined it.
I saw one video recently suggesting coating with your mixture then letting sit in the 145-150 degree oven for a couple hours. It was to allow the waxy mixture to penetrate deeper into the wood. He did that two or three times until the board appeard to stop taking the mixture. Have you tried that or even considered it? Thank you.
That seems very logical to me. Although a couple hours does seem like a long time. On the other hand, it's a cutting board. It will take a beating. There is no wax that can stand up against a knife. I have also used a heat gun or even the warmth of your hand will allow the wax to penetrate. Experimentation is fun!
Thanks for the info! Quick question, I made a batch of cutting boards and used hot beeswax cut with a small amount of olive oil to seal them. The boards were fine and looked good, but they would get watermarks when washed. The recipe you use above have the same issue?
Are you allowing the oil and wax to soak in deeply? A hair dryer can do this. Let it soak it good. apply a second coat and let it set for a couple hours then wipe off.
@@AlleyPicked Thanks for the reply. Yes, I used a heat gun to heat the wood, applied the wax and then used the heat gun as I rubbed it into the wood until it was all absorbed. Even a little splash on the board immediately discolored the area. I figured this was because wax and oil are so hydrophobic. Not sure if mineral oils instead of olive oil would solve this problem.
@@halfvisual Sounds like some experimentation is required. Perhaps a higher ration of beeswax. Mineral oil is also a good idea. Good Luck.
9:1 is practically just oil. It is great for soaking into a board, but a higher wax content makes for a more durable top coat
I understand your point but too much more wax will make it hard. This is not a paste wax. If you want a durable top coat, I suppose you could apply a mixture with a higher wax content on top of this one.
@@AlleyPicked It doesn't get hard until you're at a much higher wax concentration level. I'd imagine the Boos Board Cream is around 1:5 and that still doesn't last very long if you you use soap and water on your board. 2-3 washes and it starts to look dry.
Thats the good thing about making it yourself. You can use whatever ratio you want. If you don't like the way it turns out, warm it up and add more wax or oil :-)
And you can inject that distilled oil? Is that coconut oil considered distilled since it is steamed?
Can I use this for knife maintenance?
Yes, Can be used on the metal and great for the handles as well.
If you are using and washing your cutting board shelf life oils are more than fine. You are washing the oil away long before it goes bad. If you have the super occasion board then I wouldn't use those oils.
Is it ok to put citrus essential oil in ?
Yes. I have done it.
Is "cosmetic grade" beeswax ok to use?
From what I can tell, cosmetic grade is regular beeswax but filtered a couple extra times. That will also work just fine.
Have you ever mixed both mineral and coconut oil with the beeswax? Or is there no point to it?!
If you plan to use this for a butcher block, you don't want to use mineral spirits. If you are interested in purchasing this product, I have it for sale here...simpletoncreation.com/products/slip-n-shine-food-grade-wax-by-alley-picked
So a cup of mineral oil weighs just 4.5 oz? That would be a 9:1 ratio by weight.
How about linseed oil and beeswax? Mineral oil dries out and needs re-application after washing, and doesnt seem to absorb in wood very well.
It would need to be raw linseed oil for cutting boards. Boiled linseed oil is not food grade.
@@AlleyPicked Yes I know. BOILED linseed oil and turpentine is for furniture. My question is what is the difference between raw linseed, linseed, and cold-pressed linseed? I have boiled linseed which I use for non-food and then I have a bottle of "linseed oil" I bought in an art supply store. It doesnt say "raw" or "cold-pressed" so what is it exactly? All it says is "linseed oil." Holding aside "boiled linseed oil" out of this discussion, are the other types all the same AND food grade, or does a can have to specifically say "raw" or "cold-pressed" to be valid for food?
I am not an expert. I did some online searches and there are more variants of linseed oil than I imagined. Refined, cold pressed, and raw are very similar. They have slightly different properties when used with paint pigments. All are considered a form of raw. As long as it doesn't include the word Boiled. If it just says "linseed oil" then you wouldn't really know for sure. If it didn't say on the can, then you would need to contact the mfg. or look online. There is another called Bodied linseed oil which is also boiled. So, I guess I am left almost as confused as you. Or you can try another good oil like fractionated coconut oil.
@@AlleyPicked Oh, there is an easy way to tell between boiled and plain. I wasnt thinking and I mixed linseed and turp and coated all my knife and tool handles. It also got on the blades. I didnt think about it, just let it dry for a few days. The wood looked fine but the blades...wow....they were now coated with a hard shellac that was almost impossible to remove. I had no recall of this ever happening before. So I experimented and mixed BOILED linseed oil and turp and coated metal i had. Two days later, the oil is still oil and rubbed off easily. So now we come to the problem. If we use BOILED, the turp drives the oil into the fibers and then evaporates, leaving the oil. But its not food grade so cant use it for spoons. But if you use PLAIN and no turp to keep it food grade, then the oil may harden before the fibers can absorb it. In the case of tool handles, who cares? But for utensils and boards, PLAIN might be a curse because now you are cutting and chipping a hard-coated surface. Therefore I may have answered my own question, that no form of linseed oil can be used for food-wood even though it often is by carvers. I never dreamed this topic would be so difficult.
Can you just put both mineral oil and beeswax in the microwave?
That's a good question. I suppose it would work. I like to do it in a more controlled manner. Maybe I'll try that next time.
What is the ratio of oil and beewax (quantity)
In the video at 2:05, I mention that I used a 9:1 ratio which is about 1/2 OZ by weight of beeswax and a cup or mineral oil. If it comes out too thin , you can warm it all up and add a little more beeswax. If too thick, you can thin it out with more mineral oil.
how much wax?
It's in the video. I used 9 to 1 ratio. About 1/2 oz. of wax and 1 cup of mineral oil. You can vary the amounts to get the consistency you like.
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full of shit its $32 canadian, and only a small tin at canadian tire
I had a girl that went rancid on me once.
Maybe you should have coated her with my butcher block oil :-)
@@AlleyPicked Yeah, that's a good one!!