This Part On a Ford 7.3 Powerstroke Will Cost you $10,000 If You Dont fix It!
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- čas přidán 28. 06. 2024
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While those do leak pretty bad overtime, it's not going to take the engine out, the injection system will quit running before you scatter the engine, hence hpop, it's basically impossible to run a 7.3 dry.
I'm glad someone is smart!
No kidding. Plus the owner that ignores the massive oil leak all over the driveway and just lets it go.
I was just about to comment the same thing. I bought some performance injectors about a year ago that had been machined wrong and was causing all my engine oil to be returned to the fuel tank. It would act like it was out of fuel.
Not so sir.
Anyone that says it's impossible to run an engine dry doesn't know chit about engines
Maybe that's where my mystery leak keeps coming from. I'll fix one leak and get another lately. But at 751,000 miles I guess that's to be expected. Just replaced my first water pump and oil cooler rings this year. Bestt truck ever!
Stopping oil leaks on a 7.3 is like trying to carry water in a screen door!
You should try the old 2 stroke Detroits if they didn't leak oil that's when you had to worry😂
Worked for Ford for quite some time and have never seen an oil leak from there cause the engine to fail. Anything is possible but the majority of the time the engine dies from the lack of oil before it starts to destroy any of the internal parts.
I mean I have never been much of a Ford guy but don't the old 7.3 use a huey pump to fire injectors but the huey uses oil to get its pressure to fire the injectors
This product install is garbage. Take the oil pan off. Dropping it in the pan with the engine out of the truck is lazier than the rtv gooper at jasper.
When these flanges leak enough the oil will drop to a level where the high pressure oil system can no longer get oil to fire the injectors. So even if it dumps all your oil on the ground your engine won’t stay running for long enough to cause damage.
Yup even just a couple quarts low makes it really really hard to start
Had this happen on freeway.
Also mine does not take 5 gal oil. 13 qts
The stock adapter costs less than $10. Looks like Jasper did a good enough job with the RTV as you could barely remove it. I'd take the chance and run it considering the part you are installing costs $300. My 20 year old 7.3 has 400,000 miles and that part doesn't leak. I did replace the dipstick oring and tightened the adapter nut. If it leaked a lot I would clean it up and RTV or JB Weld it.
I thought about JB weld too, just permanently, tighten the nut seal the outer edge and, I think that’ll do it.
They way that thing was torqued and siliconed on, I'm convinced Jasper did it right and I would've NEVER f-ed with it!
Agreed
they last a long time stock. i have a 2000 7.3, i found mine was leaking because she lost power after i left the house, white smoke and all. at least 75% of the time the hpop will lose prime, and let you know. its not a 6.0 lol what really does it is swelling agents in oil additives. mine went a few days after i put lucas in. straight up popped the seal out of its seat an left the whole thing loose in the bore
+1. As much as he had to work at it, that Jasper solution was good to go 🤦🏻♂️
SAME HERE... THEY INVEST IN BUILDING A BETTER ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION THAN THE MANUFACTURER TO NOT PAY ATTENTION TO THAT PART!?!?!?! NO STEPHEN MAYBE ON A 300,000 ENGINE I WOULD AGREE BUT NOT ON THIS ONE BUDDY!!!
Yeah, for real. Make sure you get the loose silicone off it... then drop the part inside your pan and leave it!?!? This is not the type of thinking that got the 7.3 a nickname like million mile motor. 🤦♂️
🤦🏼♂️ like I understand that it’s meant to stay in there so you don’t have to pull the pan in the vehicle being such a pain but come on man that’s a brand new motor and you were right there 😭 my ocd went insane
I was about to write the same thing. New engine and it's out the truck. I could understand a little if it's your truck, but it's a customer. I would never let that fly at my shop.
He was just demonstrating what you COULD do if your engine was still in your truck and you either can’t or don’t have the resources to pull the motor. In my case I’m here because for whatever reason, that 2” nut on the outside backed completely off and my flange fell into my pan. Wasn’t even a choice of mine.
@@colt.christopher wrong 😂 he clearly stated that he left the old one in that brand new motor 😂
Well now I need to watch a video on taking off the oil pan 😂
Wouldn't some JB weld be the best thing to seal and hold the original part on the pan
It was fine. Now there is a loose part in the pan. No thank you.
That was crazy not to mention all the silicone that fell in there.
He has great info but definitely wouldn't send my trucks to him.
Honestly I don’t think that was going anywhere with that much RTV but you do you.
same! No way that was going to fail.
@@jameshite4820 its flaw is that its easy to strip when people tighten it if it ever starts leaking. If in never backs off you're fine.
@@twayland6186 good comment.
Makes my head hurt knowing people actually leave that in there lol
Mine too buddy would not like that
Agree 100%, it will mess with my head but I'm going to chance it vs pulling the engine.
7.3s are cheap here, there mostly clapped out now anyway.
You can get a repair kit from Riff Raff diesel for a lot less around $60 I believe and nothing gets left in the pan. Just take your time and be in a comfortable spot so you don't get fed up and mess up
same i could never enjoy my truck knowing its down there lol
I pulled my pan to replace mine,
Recently sold my 6.0. Had it since new and got a 6.7. Also have an 02 7.3 that has been a workhorse since new. Mine doesn't leak yet, but wouldn't mind heading it off at the pass. Anyone who has a 7.3 knows that chasing oil leaks can be a full time job. You can hang a picture of one on the wall,and have to put a bucket under it to catch the drips...
I'm gonna look and changing this on mine. Thanks Steve-O.
I believe you have the most honest and value of information on videos...Thanks
I did this exact thing with the engine in my 1995 truck 7 yrs ago - no problem with the part left inside - and no one else to my knowledge - who has left this part inside - if your truck is leaking from this spot - the only way to fix it is to pull the engine to replace this part. - I also used their fuel conversion from a manual diesel pump to their electric diesel pump setup and no problem in 6 yrs. - expensive yes but pay once, cry once. ps - I had my cousin call you about his zetor tractor but man are you backed up - congrats on your business -
The mechanical lift pump is superior why would you waist so much money buying a electronic pump.
I installed this adapter on my 7.3. It's unjustifiably expensive, but still way cheaper and far less hassle than trying to remove the oil pan. And for all you cringing at the thought of leaving the old adapter in the pan, it's been three years for me and I haven't had a problem. The physical weight of the oil keeps the old adapter from flying around the pan and also the windage tray inside the pan provides a barrier between the sump and the crankshaft further reducing the possibility of the old adapter flying up and destroying the crank.. So unless I drive my truck upside down, I'm not going to have issues.
It’s entirely possible to take the old adapter out and put a new one on without dropping the pan. I’ve done it on my own 7.3
@@capacious1288 would you like to explain how we can fit the square peg through the round hole?
@@michaelpratt3142 you have to have some type of tool you can stick in there to hold onto it. Just don’t drop it…
So when the $300.00 part fails
You have a spare in the pan.
Got it.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
pretty much , when i worked at Ford this was a very “common” problem and i’ll tell you why i hit it with quotation marks but i digress.
This is a real problem but for the average DIYER it is a “serious problem” but all you could do is 1. tighten it and hit it with sealant or 2. drop the oil pan and buy a new oil pan
my current 97’ F-250 leaks from the oil pan and i just think it’s time for a new oil pan so there’s that
i put the quotation marks cause for someone who can work on a vehicle it is not something major .
@@SLOADING6 I’v never had Devcon fail, I’ve used it Engine blocks, gas tanks, exhaust manifolds, cyclider
@@robertleftwich1122 well me either , but i’m just speaking from general experience , it’s different for everyone i presume
@@SLOADING6 I had to pay to have my oil pan changed. I paid for an after market warranty and after only 50 thousand miles oil pan was rotting out and leaking oil. Major job replacing oil pan on f350. But my warranty wouldn’t cover job. Sucks so bad that ford couldn’t put a good coat of paint or something to prevent this problem. Or make it so you can change oil pan easier. I was happy with the 7.3 though. Rust is the worst I tell u
well finally someone who makes something to fix this PITA oil leak issue ive got a fleet of power stroke diesels and having to check them all the time after having to foot the bill for a new engine is not fun ide rather foot the 2-3K bill for a few of these adapters and fix my trucks then having a 10+K bill for another engine thanks for this info now i got some preventitive maintanence to get done and some $$$ to spend lol
Got a repair kit that Riffraff diesel sells that was pretty easy to install with no issues so far. Thanks for making these videos to show the problems and fixes.
I bought one of these and had it installed five years ago. Works great. My mechanic wanted to charge me to remove the engine for the stock repair. I insisted that he install this. Saved me thousands of dollars.
Please tell us that since you have the motor out. You dropped the pan and removed that back plate piece. There’s no reason not to.
. .
Nope, left it in there.
True believer........
But, I’d want that outta my brand new motor.
@@BennettT9 You do, but he doesn't.
@@StephenCoxfixit If I spent 10k on an engine install & seen that you did this, it would be last time you worked on one of my vehicles. I understand they say you can leave it but when someone pays you 10k plus $300 for that part, do it right! just my humble opinion.
why add extra work its not like its going to rattle about in there its just going to sit there. the company who made the adaptor have probably thought about this at length and done research as well
Seems like a nice piece but $300 is wayyyy overpriced
Cheaper than a $10,000 engine job.
Especially when you can just put a couple tack welds on it
$300 for a $50 part.
So a new motor is cheaper than 300 bucks? As the saying goes you get what you pay for.
Interesting that people dont think design and test is cheap. And that CNC machining is cheap. And billet aluminum is cheap
I tried the repair kit first and didn’t work so I went with the adapter. I didn’t like the idea of a part sitting in the oil pan but I figured the designers, shops and numerous customers have nothing but good to say about it, then why not. I am another happy customer 👍🏼
Steven. There are couple people that sell the upgrade from $80. To $250. On 7.3 forums on fb. Cant hurt bearings. Motor will shut down before damage. Ask me how i know. Lol. More of a nuisance than anything. I'd never go with jasper. Ford remans are great for around 8500 and up. Great warranty. Good video man.
7.3's cannot catastrophically fail from oil leaks or low oil pressure. They will shut down before any damage can be done because the injectors will not function without proper oil pressure. Good info, but inaccurate to say it will prevent engine failure because it is not possible from failure of that part.
Its funny as you say that it reminds me about talking to someone about their engineer class. He said his professor said it is fairly simple to make a part that is super effective however it takes a genius to make things break down systematically like clockwork.
Thank you. Love seeing the 7.3 videos as I have a 7.3 that I love and want to keep for a long time. :)
How often do you change the oil in a 7.3? I have heard that you can go 7k-8k miles between oil changes because of the oil capacity.
@@KoalityofLife every 20k. I test every 4k and change filters every 5. I have a bypass filter that works very well.
Thank you. Mine started leaking today at 268000 miles. I have some of their stuff on my truck, very well built items. Looks like I will be ordering this today. I trust them, and I trust you.
"I like to put one of these blue caps on so debris can't get in here." ( After dropping the RTV laden dipstick back plate in oil pan and shredding RTV with a pick as the loose RTV drops in pan.)
yeh but,,he,s learning..funny how the student knows more than the teacher..
Lol
@@phantomwalker8251 nikki
I've put a couple of those on. Same price I paid a few years ago. Great piece. Truck still on road with no dipstick leaks...
I’ve always a heard a 7.3 will shut down before it does any damage. Oil level wise
Yep it does.
Yes they do, you can feel injector pressure lower also when coming to a stop if getting low. I know from experience
Thanks for sharing Steven. I'm on my lunch watching your new upload. Cheers brotha!
Love the videos dude. This one helped alot had no idea these guys existed. I have a 1995 7.3 f250. And it's leaking from the flange and rear main seal but I'm about 2500 bucks into the build and your content has helped alot.
If you have a leak in the engine valley it will leak out of the housing I had that happen I thought it was the rear main
Well done and great update to that block. Thank you for your skills...Peace
Had the issues with the dipstick flange a couple years ago and it blew oil all over the undercarriage of my truck. My mechanic fixed it about as well as Jasper engines did. I couldn't afford to have the engine pulled to drop the oil pan to fix properly. This last week while on vacation in Phoenix I had Strickly Diesel install this adaptor so I can now have peace of mind to not ever have the problem again. They're a great shop to deal with over the phone and in person.
Yes sir, leaked all of a sudden towing my trailer. Oil light came on (never happened in 210,000 before) luckily there was a shop within 40 miles and I had enough oil with me to get me there. Overnighted this part 👆. When they said they were going to drop the old part down into the pan I got to say I was skeptical! Asked my diesel mechanic about it when I got home and he said, “Yep that’s the best fix going, don’t worry about it they did you right”. Another 60,000 on it and not one drip or worry sense. Subscribed!
When I lived in Phoenix, I actually had the guys do some work on my 6.0 PSD Excursion. They bailed me out, and did great work! I don't know anything about the project in this video, but I would work with Strictly Diesel.
Thank you Stephen and Vinn. I will be having Strictly Diesel install one on my 1996 7.3 F-250. I was quoted fifteen hours labor from Ford and a local mechanic to drop the pan and fix, Strictly Diesel quoted me $560 including tax.
As always, nicely done! People need to lighten up on you. You're providing a solution to a problem that will absolutely work. Other solutions are available, along with different techniques. Much appreciate your time & effort put into these instructional videos. Stick to your guns & ignore the trolls, brother! Me & my 02 7.3 thank you & your family and hope you're all healthy & happy.
My 855 Cummings had 2 9/16 and wrenches in it when I re sealed it.
When my dipstick leaked, I used a filed down toothbrush on a wire that fits in the hole to hold the piece from falling in, the toothbrush head fits tight and the bristles hold it in place once in but allows you to pull it out easily too, I slapped a nice new o-ring on it and hasn't been a problem since, been like 5 years I think
I had never seen this video until now. And I was dealing with that on my 95 F250. So I went online and I actually found that part that he's showing oh, and I installed it myself and I've never had a problem with it. It's an expensive part but well worth it.
Did you also leave the old dipstick adapter inside the oil pan??
This is not a paid advertisement!!!
LOL ! Great job Stephen!
I wonder if jasper voids their warranty knowing that's floating around in the oil pan?
So far - I have no leaks at that spot...
Now the front and rear main...they leak a little...
It is still going strong at 322 K miles...
That ol combine engine...is just incredible
My friend has this happen to him, he solved his problem with Acetone cleanup and a ton of JB Weld, never leaked again
JB weld does some amazing things. In a pinch I sealed up the bottom of a ruptured oil pan with it. It did not create a complete or perfect seal but it got me by until I got a new oil pan.
I replaced my oil dipstick adapter with one from strictly diesel. It cost me over $300 but it didn't require my taking my oil pan off. That was about 2 years ago and I have now found that piece for around $55 on amazon. Either way, it completely stopped my oil leak! Great video, you are totally right about the oil leak getting pretty bad, but with that said, I noticed it on my driveway almost immediately! I guess if you're on a 1000 mile trip and don't really pay attention a motor could be ruined, but it was blatantly obvious to me! You're also right about Jasper engines. Their factory is awesome and everything they make or rebuild it very high quailty! I live a few hours from the Jasper Factory.
That’s actually really cool because that little weld does double duty in letting you spin the plate into position counter clockwise to line the other screw up
never heard of this being a problem before. so glad I came across your video.
Man thank yoiu I am so glad I ran across this video I have an oil leak on my 7.3 now I know where else to look..
Nice piece, i had to use one of these on a 1997 F450 7.3 liter work truck, needed the truck for work and couldn't have the truck down. When that part leaks, it sucks. The aftermarket part works great and dont worry about the part being dropped into the pan.
I thought he said it wouldn’t come out because of silicone. My 99 dipstick rotted out and I put new dipstick with brace and that worked fine. The truck is so rotted out. I just use it for plowing a couple driveways near home. I really can’t see spending 300 bucks to change the thing. But nice to know about it.
I’ve never heard anyone saying they had a problem with this. If money is not a problem go for it.
Worth every penny; 175k miles on mine! I had a mystery oil leak which was the dip stick adapter. Found the Strictly Diesel part cause the silicone and other crap failed. I have over 175k miles with this part on my 01’ Platinum Edition. Anyway, I cringed thinking about that part bouncing around too; but think about it, you would have to hit one hell of a bump to move that through oil covering it. Unless you doing monster truck jumps go for it. Plus, the pan doesn’t just drop out. Even my dealer said its around $2k for them to drop the pan. Crazy! Plus they had one they replaced with OEM part, it failed.
Back to how I did it.
I used vise grip and an AR-15 chamber cleaning brush to hold the part in case of an accidental vise grip release. The brush bristles are wider than the hole so I pushed it threw before griping. And yes my Vise grip released inadvertently, thank God for my fall back safety mechanism.
Bottom line. This part has worked like a charm for me. The reason the Ford part fails is the nut is made of pot metal and The o’ring swells and expands over time, warping or flexing that part ever so slightly...enough to start the leak.
Do it you won’t regret it if you think through the process, follow directions, and then change your oil afterwards.
i bought a bunch of stuff from strictly diesel to build my E-fuel setup on my OBS ford they were top shelf
Thank you for the information Mr Cox
I just came here to say.....I love Cox! Rock on borther
So what happens when the orings in the adaptor fails? Same thing right?
Hiya, I took on my own truck and made a new one that welded to the pan , inside and out with no flex of pan , but the pan needed to be off
My buddy just sent me the link to this video and I'm glad he did. I just bought my first truck with a 7.3L powerstroke. This video was very helpful and you Sir, just got yourself a new subscriber. 😁
I’m supposed get my first one tomorrow
Dang..I want one..but have to admit... Watching that thing drop into the oil pan, baffle or not, nearly made me pass out. Key-rike-e! Excellent video!
My injector cups were not cracked but compression was leaking past them , #8 and #4. Thanks for that tip
new o ring on the adapter, rtv on threads and where it tightens down to the pan 150k later still dry. hope the jasper holds up for you personally i would never use anything re-manufactured from them. have seen and heard of too many engines fail before backing out of the bay, and i like doing things once. 9-12k for a 7.3 engine r&i? you can build it for roughly 4k depending on what additional goodies you want on it and know what you have and use genuine parts.
I bought a 95 ford F-250 for $ 100,00 dollars because of the oil leak with a 7.3 L .now I can buy the part on and oil pan then but the truck back on the road. Thanks for your input on the oil leak
Excellent upgrade.
Always keep an eye on your oil pressure kids
I have a 2000 F350 7.3, 235k miles, and so far the engine holds oil fine. I do have small leaks. But I will have to check the adapter out.
Great video Steven , now I know where to look to see where my 2003 7.3 with 106,000 miles is leaking oil . Thanks
Look in the valley. These aren't that common. My dipstick adapter was not leaking at 224k miles.
You can change that original o-ring using the pliers trick without dropping the pan.
This was quite a shocking discovery. I’m by no means a Ford 7.3 engine lover, but I sure do think Ford needs to jump on this issue! This is good info to know about, so thanks for taking time to share it. That adapter is quite expensive, but really is worth taking time to replace it. Maybe you need to do an update on this after the engine has a few thousand miles on it...as an , Oh, by the way, this was done and it still works fine. Food for thought. Again, thanks! 😎
No they need to jump on the 6.0 issues over any other!!!! I cannot believe stock 6.0’s are allowed to be sold!!
@@pnwadventurer9674 🇺🇸 I got ya. How many complaints does it take to get these kind of issues fixed? Does it takes someone getting seriously injured or just some big hot rod enthusiast to blast them to get some heads rolling! It sure makes me wonder! 🧐🤩✌️
@@pnwadventurer9674 laughs in 6.4
Oil cooler o rings can leak alot too. Good to know had a few that I had to replace.
After #14 in instructions
Prior to installing the dipstick adapter do the following:
with the dipstick adapter in your hand turn the welded end screw counter clockwise and line up the hole with the second screw.
Use a black marker and make a mark on the head of the welded tip screw and an area of the dipstick adapter where you can line up both marks. Lining up these two marks will allow the second screw in the dipstick adapter to line up with the threaded hole in the dipstick adapter inside the oil pan. Also, DON'T tighten to electrical screws too tight, you'll break the solenoid housing OUCH
I bought a 1973 Wheelhorse D250 Estate tractor with a cast iron twin Kohler on it back in the late 80s. It died a few years ago, splines on hydraulic pump wore off and did it in. One tough machine. Motor still ran great, but I pulled the pan just to see how it looked after 40+ yrs of hard work. In the pan was a MAC 5/8" swivel socket with the chrome worn completely off from rolling in the cast iron pan. Upon close inspection, the socket just fit through the fill/dipstick opening (3/4" npt). Someone must have intentionally tried to sabotage the motor many years ago, but it never happened. Through the years, I've found some weird stuff in oil pans, but that's the winner. The socket was too small to catch in the rotating assembly, and too big to block the oil pickup. Still have the socket, and occasionally use it. It's WELL lubricated and rust free, despite the missing chrome...
I've bought and sold a few of these 7.3s And never knew how bad that leak was.
thanks
Great video!!!
Hey Steven how many products like that do you know of????
Do you know of more that need to be made?
Great info Steve !
Awesome video again, with the detailed descriptions always a plus!I’ve been subscribed and watching ur vids for a min now. Keep it up sir. You’ve help me more than u could ever know! I’m fixin something rite now with ur very informative help‼️
This is a nice thing to know. Thanks for the vid
This happened to my 2016 f350 powerstroke while driving to oregon.Roseburg Ford damaged my sidesteps equally on both sides of the truck and my truck now has a permanent ticking inside deep inside the motor now and it was under warranty but now im stuck with 900 $ a month payments and a damaged motor.
Good info!!!
Great video!
Great video Stephen @Stephen Cox
I also own/drive an 02 F350 crew cab 7.3L SD 4x4 with 217k. I've seen videos on this oil dipstick housing working its way loose over time resulting in a leak & I've also seen this “Strictly Deisel” component before and my jaw almost dropped at the $300 price and the fact instructions are to drop the old component into the rear of the oil pan. (but I do understand its a more permanent fix than the cheap POS Ford used as a factory component.
Anyway, dropping it just didn't sit well in my brain as a past mechanic of 20 years but I'm glad he explained the pan is of a design that prevents the dropped hardware from interfering with normal operations.
Longer story short, I recently changed oil and noticed mine had just barely started to leak so I checked and tightened the nut about 1/4 turn (just snug) and then used brake cleaner to clean the area good and dry. Drove it for another 100 miles and checked a few times. No more leak was present but I sure didn't want to visit this again so 2 days ago, I cleaned the area again with brake fluid and used JB Weld to seal all around the nut and let fully cure for 24/36 hrs.
I believe I caught the issue before the O-ring inside expanded to a degree that would have been unfixable without replacing the O-ring OR using something like the “Strictly Diesel” fix.
The engine is on the ground. Why on earth would you drop a part in the pan? I'm sorry I would never even consider it.
To show how its done ... I am sure it is removed when its out of the trk ..
I dont see how that can hurt anything. it's been in there already and will be stuck in a baffle. Lotsa room in there. No upside down driving!
Wait... Jasper won't warrant the motor then THEIR installed dipstick fitting fails? I bet it just never happens within the warranty period and thats why they don't put the $300 one in👍
@@KG-sy2vs 0
@@royoglesby605 he already said in a comment that the part was left inside
I am familiar with that adapter. It is the same as the 444 International. I was fortunate, I noticed smoke from oil hitting the exhaust.
I am glad to here its the same as a 444 tractor .. I have the leak on mine . so i will repalce it with that .. I just wont need to leave it in the pan
The 444 is a 7.3
The quality of that new aluminum dipstick mount looks amazing
Like your new shop, have you completely moved in yet? How is Justin doing?
I never had that leak on my 2003 F-350 with the 7.3l. Now the bigger issue is the oil pans rust out and you need to pull the engine to fix it right.
Was there a locating pin for that little tab? Or do you have to mark the dipstick location?
The factory pan has a locating tab that centers it.
Also includes a rare earth magnet to help you hold The Back plate after finishing it you install those magnets on the bottom of your panWhich will hold any metal debris And also the internal
Part that stays in the block
I have started looking at 7.3 truck/Excursion. This will be completed in the first 24 hours of purchase.
If you've ever pulled a Ford distributor out and the oil pump driveshaft falls into the oil pan because someone didn't install the driveshaft clip during an oil pump replacement, you'll learn to deal with it that it will stay in the bottom of the pan, just as the dipstick modification recommendation. Great fix.
How about check your oil more than just when you change it. I've got 400k on mine and mine leaks a bit it. still has the stock one.
Not everyone knows how to open their hood, some people genuinely are that lazy unfortunately.
id make the customer pay to have me take it out, they just paid for a 300 dollar part they can dish out half an hour of labor.... in my opinion
It'll be WAY MORE than half an hour to raise the cab and engine high enough to drop the pan!
@@stevedresen8497 it looks like the engine is already out of the cab brother if it was in the engine yea way more pricey
nothing wrong with the way it was..300 dollars for dummies..
Fantastic video.
so a complaint is made on shortcut by engine company, siliconing the part vs shortcut of dropping a nasty part into the oil pan.... it works-- but how much to just change the gasket and do it right? the part could rub a hole in the pan, rattle around-- or bounce up into the engine in case of roll over-- you never know.. it is 4 wheel drive- and they may drive as if they stole it--- no biggy.... it will fall apart first-- i get it-- it is a ford after all... should do as a chevy owner-- install magnets to hold it in place and catch other parts that fall off... joke....
Funny... I have a 23 year-old 7.3 in an F250 with 250,000 miles that is dead stone reliable, more solid than a rock, without ANYTHING ever falling off. Of course, I never drive it as if I stole it which helps.
When did you come up with a magnet for aluminum?
Actually the factory style oring can be replaced with the engine in the truck!!
I used magnets to hold the fuel door shut on my old chevy.
I bought 02 350 in 01. I have 240k on it. Only replaced alternator twice & water pump since I’ve had it. Now I’m worried, only time I’ve ever had a drop of oil under it was when service tech didn’t tighten the oil pan good after oil change. I only drive it about 5K miles a year since 2012, but still runs like a top. How much is this fix?
When I used to have to work on these damn things I’d use a catheter. Slide it in the dipstick hole and inflate it. Then you could remove the nut and fish the old adapter out of the way replace oring and reinstall. That way nothing was dropped in the pan.
Yes, the quality of their dip stick must be potent...……..
I actually just installed one of those yesterday
I just like great parts that work and I would use that part in a heart beat to keep oil off drive way or garage floor .
Thank you for making this video. I will be buying this part asap and I will mention that you gave me the referral.
“5 gallons oil the entire system”????? It takes 15qts including the HPOP reservoir!!!
5 gallons is 20 qts . Not far off . But yet again if people are basing your oil change capacity off of a you tube video you shouldn't be working on vehicles
You could’ve just put a little bead on the nut with a welder & grind it off when you want to remove it. Costs about $0.005 & some time. It’s just a little something to keep it from moving/rattling free.
THANKS FOR THIS VIDIO I WILL BE REPLACING MINE
Cool video 👍👍👍👍 been running and working on the 7.3 and NEVER heard anyone Losing a motor from a leak around the dipstick adapter. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Engine runs low enough on oil it just shuts off because it can't fire the injectors. I have yet to see one of these motors die from a lack of oil. Cummins on the other hand......
A wire bottle brush works to hold dip stick adapter too.
Never seen one loosen up up north because of the rust.
Lol, rust has finally proven useful!
😂👍🏻
That because the pan tots out first
Orange Locktite
Yeah our pans rust out first gofgure 60$ pan full of oil rot out? Major expense god bless jb weld add a extra 100k miles and counting
Ford