Snap-on: Making Subaru Control Arm Bushing Replacement A Breeze
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 04. 2020
- Please Like, Comment, and Share. Be sure to subscribe for future videos. Don't forget to hit the bell icon for notifications. CZcams has changed what they show subscribers!
Subaru Specialty Tools - www.amazon.com/shop/mrsubaru1...
Subaru OEM Parts - www.amazon.com/shop/mrsubaru1...
Must Have Tools - www.amazon.com/shop/mrsubaru1...
StoreFront - www.amazon.com/shop/mrsubaru1387
If you like the vids and want to help make more: paypal.me/MrSubaru1387
----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I like how as soon as you took that lower ball joint bolt out you immediately said “yeah the rust belt guys gonna hate me” you aren’t lying haha
Northern Minnesotans are jealous as well.
Or on tik tok ect when they take out the speed sensor bolt and the actual sensor itself just slides out...yeah right lmfao
@@johndejong7036 I just did the brakes on a friends car. He failed to tell me it lived most of it's life in Minnesota. Holy crap, do you guys just replace you calipers and rotors every year along with the pads? That was a bunch of no fun...
@@PeatyR The calipers last a little while, but they may seize. The real problem comes with ANY kind of nut/bolt or compression fitting.
@@PeatyR We have to go over the caliper pad holder piece with an wire brush, wipe off dust and then spray paint. Also brake pad clip hardware has to be replaced before next pads due to corrosion from the salt in winter. I currently own an Outback that sadly had one of the puds get stuck and couldn't slide properly. That pad is nearly worn down to metal. Good thing in my case, an owner before the seller of the car had the calipers themselves replaced.
Here in the rust belt, always use WD-40 or similar on bolts or else some will just snap. I've personally learned through owning cars 12 years or older that a slow firm impact with a extra long breaker bar is better for rust coated bolts than a impact gun. Credit to Subaru for using great bolt hardware that lasts.
Well damn. I was told the bushings weren’t serviceable so I installed a new control arm. But at 10 years old in New York, it came out super easy.
I just completed this repair. Thank you so very much again.
This should be a recall. I spoke to the dealership in Johnson City and they had already changed somewhere in the hundreds.
MOST IMPORTANT!!
The AC drain tube is probably the main cause of the right side failing. It drips directly onto the bushing causing evaporation and deterioration of the oils in the rubber. Move it aside.
People need to go to the National Traffic Safety Bureau and file a complaint. This is how recalls are forced.
Huh. Just took my 08 NA for its 100k maint headgaskets water pump etc. I noticed that the AC was wayyyy colder on the passenger side than the driver side. They did confirm there was a leak and topped off the refrigerant for me. They also found a right arm bushing needed replacing of course.
@@RobustMustache Thanks for the info! I'm gonna make a file of this because honestly yeah, it should be a recall.
Harbor Freight has a cup-bearing press kit I've used on 4 Subaru's bushing with no problem. Now if I was doing this every day or even a week, I might buy a more expensive one, but snap on $700, ah no..love the videos.
You are one of my favorite Subaru channels. Trustworthy and reliable! Appreciate your work!
Thanks for producing this video. Very informative and skillfully done. I might add that if you know of a local machinists' shop, a lot of those guys will press out/in the bearings for not that much money, so if you're a DIYer then you can skip that step and just have to worry about reinstalling the control arm. Cheers.
Thank you for going through and listing out all the torque specs on all the bolts, my service manual didn't have the rear bracket-body and rear bracket support torque specs so this helps tremendously!!
the proper tourqe specs are goodntighten
Thanks for doing this video. I was on vacation with the family and started getting a bad vibration when driving straight at highway speed. Checked the bushings and the smaller front bushing was toast. Couldn’t get into a shop anywhere for days and I had all the basic tools with me except a ball peen hammer. Hit up the parts store and got the lower control arm with bushings and ball joint and took on the project in the hotel parking lot. Took about 2 hours, the biggest pain was getting the ball joint to drop out of the knuckle even after letting some PB Blaster soak in over night.
Very much appreciate you taking the time to explain the bushing orientation details. Thanks!
I was going to replace my shocks and rims on my car and I had seen these are cracked on my 2008 wrx sti so now I have to do this first. Very informative video, thank you boss!
These videos are fantastic and the best part is Mr. Subaru always provides the torque values! Thank you!
A big thanks mate. Your videos are great for those of us who work outside on our subies! clear , straight forward, no b.s. from a subscriber in Australia 🇦🇺
Great video... I opted for the whole control arm assembly from Rock Auto for around $65.00. New bushings and ball joint included. Snap to replace both sides. Love your videos, and saved a boat load from Snap-on.
I do pretty much all the maintenance on my 2016 Crosstrek and 2019 Forester. I have used aftermarket and OEM parts in the past and I can say with confidence that it is almost always worth buying the OEM Subaru part. Their quality far surpasses almost all aftermarket parts I have used in the past
I could hear the collective groans when you said "Crosstrek" right off the bat. There went that opportunity... 🤣
You mean Crosstrack😂
Thanks for the video and now once the warmer weather comes here in New England I will have a job to do. One hint would to put some anti seize on those studs threads so the next time they will come off a lot easier. Thanks again
I just bought the same type of Snap-on accessory cups except for Hondas & Acuras. $320 in my case. Phew!
I don’t have a BJP-1, but I think (hope) they will work with my less expensive ball joint press. Only one way to find out....
I don’t have a lift, so I hope to flee. Some tips from your procedure on how I might make mine easier, smoother on jack stands.
As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. There’s always something to learn!
Excellent video, nice tool, great point on loading suspension to torque bushings. On install in the words of a wise old mechanic, "don't use your hand for a hammer!"
I can only replace windshield wiper fluid. Lol. I find these videos amazing. It is so cool that you can do such significant repairs in one person even outside a proper garage.
Thank you. Certainly just going to buy a whole new control arm to avoid the time and hassle of extracting the bushing. Time is money!
The lack of rust is amazing, My Subaru came from Vermont and both control arm broke like a chicken wishbone due to rust.
The NVH (noise, vibration and harhness) folks probably had the final say on the elastomeric design (degradation). You do a great job with only two hands available!
WOW! I wish my Forester came apart that easy. NY winters are not easy on cars.
Every 10 minute job can take at least an hour. 😂
I watched this video the day it aired. Took forester in to have airbag replaced. When they did the inspection told me that the bushine and ball joint was bad. I guess ill start buying parts and refer to this video when I go to do it. (will be using your press video as well)
Just did bushings on an A5 and damn that tool is better than a press and C clamp it’s like they had a baby
I love tools like this which can save you so much time, money, and frustration! Great video.
A 700$ tool vs a 90$ control arm
@@matthewmaca6675 never said I would buy this specific tool! Do the job enough times and the tool pays for itself though.
It was nice to see this kit in action. All ready have the BJP1 going to have to order this adapter set for it so I can put the press to work again.
BJP1-BKS is the adapter set part number. 👍🏻
Pro Tip: Tap a little chisel in the gap of the ball joint bore, the ball joint will almost fall out.
Great video. Thanks! I've replaced the LCA's twice on my 220k 08 OBW because both times, the rear bushings were worn and torn. They seem to be the only parts that wear out (other than rust in the rust belt). $16 for a pair of bushings compared to $80 for a pair of LCA's (or $160 for Mevotechs) is a good deal. You could rent (free) a ball joint press and adapters from a local parts store like Autozone or OReilly. I just replaced mine with new LCA's but I'll remember this in another 100k miles.
Nice video describing just the job I`m doing now. I like your southern accent! Love from Norway.
I live in Oregon and just did the control arm bushings and wheel bearings on a friends Buick that came from Michigan. Ball joint was so rusted in there and was not coming off I didn’t want to mess it up so I just unbolted the strut tower and tie rod and took the control arm, strut, and knuckle out and pushed out bushings while control arm was still connected to the knuckle by the ball joint. Was a lot faster than trying to get the ball joint out lol.
Great video, I may just replace the bushing with the control arm now..
I had a mechanic in Tennessee agree to install the OEM bushings into the original front lower control arm on2009 Subaru legacy 3.0r. He managed to destroy the bushing mount, sourced the arms from O'Reilly's, which I only found out when I had to pay the bill. I'll give you a bargain price on 4 bushings and 2 ball joints. Didn't bother to save the Subaru arms to decide if I wanted them. I guess it wasn't good enough that it was a total gut of the front suspension. But wait, there's more! Installed 4 high end Continental tires, but neglected to tell me he isn't equipped to do an alignment. Pay for alignment with a picture of a sheared brand new sway bar end link, and caster off half degree. Rear cross chamber increased to .8 degree trying to force the front. Strut/spring aftermarket matched adjustable damping japanese set up. First look at front mounts, diagnosis... Missing conical washer. Failure on both mounts. Complete disassembly, inspection, replace, reassembly. I can't get back to North Carolina fast enough.
Wow...
Love Your Videos Sooo Much!!
Been at the Subaru factory in Indiana since they opened and it does sadden me when we seem to be having inferior components in the vehicles.
Not necessarily in every case,but in major suspension components just be aware that a number of years ago FHI corporate instituted an awe inspiring safety directive of zero fatalities.
With the new offset impact tests etc. / the continuous compromise in engineering to preserve crumple zones should not impede long term component reliability.
So sorry some of our stuff isn't perfect.
Even with big brother Toyota in our backyard, we are still a tiny company.
David does not always beat Goliath!!!
Mr. Subaru your awesome.
Want a plant tour some day.
Let us know / just to show ya how hard we're tryin.
Thanks
My '98 Legacy GT needs a new set now. This videos will be super helpful!
I live in the southwest desert, no rust or salt eaten metal here either, no hate from me. But I used to live in NY and Maine, it's terrible what the roads do to cars there
Don't I know it. :'( Vermont here. Everything I work on is rust.
its not just terrible its psychotic how bad rust gets there.
Yes, here in Scotland too!!!
looks like a good tool to make, I need to do these bushings soon, I may fabricobble one together
I definitely enjoy this video and now being so much informed on what to do.
Robert, I understand the savings if you’re just going to replace this particular bushing, but at 150k miles and having all the labor involved in removing the lower control arm, wouldn’t it be prudent to replace the other bushing and the ball joint?
And, given the price of these three parts, just replace the entire lower control arm assembly? Given the bushings are about $25 each…and the ball joint another $48…and the entire assembly about $100 and no labor involved in removing and pressing in the wear parts…
Well, you get my point.
Easy to see why a specialty tool is used, that bushing sleeve is narrow so the installation hardware would need an exact diameter. Once the old one is out I suppose one could modify the old sleeve to help drive the new one in.
I just had 4 bushings, 2 control arms, 2 swivels, a rear spring, a/c relay, oil change and tire repair and this came to $2000. Sounds like the parts were cheap and most of the cost was labor. I know I got jipped but unless you have the tools and the know how, you have to pay to be safe on the road.
I just had 2 front rotors, 2 front brake pads, and 2 arm bushings replaced and was charged $1367.60.
You mentioned a trip to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I can watch the cars go by on a section if that Parkway from my kitchen window. Small world. WNC is definitely Subaru country! Very popular around here.
The control from OEM does have the control arm.
I replaced mine last weekend. And it was for a 2015 Forester.
Subaru does offer a loaded control arm (both bushings, ball joint, castle nut, and lock pin), at least for some applications. The official online parts catalog could be clearer - the diagram shows it but the part description does not explain it. Dealers using the Revolution Parts catalog system seem to detail it correctly though. I had worn LCA bushings on an '09 Forester and and ended up using loaded control arms on both sides (20202SC011 and 20202SC002)
Yeah, found that afterwards. They're about $230.
I would buy one just for eliminating the risk of installing the bushing backwards or upside down.
You are my favourite dude right now.
awesome video! thank you! i need to replace both lower control arms on my 14 wrx - anything i should look out for?
in a salt belt its just easy to replace the control arm but in the south just replace the bushing and FYI OTC or astrol has the same thing that snap-off as
Excelente trabalho capitão, parabéns!
Forte abraço desde Ilhabela São Paulo Brasil
One of our nationwide suspension parts suppliers in Australia sells complete control arms with bushings and ball joint installed for less money than a new bushing would cost to install in labour time.
Jake, what’s the company name please?
Man I’m glad I saw man I have a 2019 Impreza with like 18k miles only and these bushings on my car already starting to show fatigue. Wonder if there’s an upgrade for it
Nice vid! Good job on the Crossie!
Very professional job. Very good i like your videos
great videos and info!...thanks!...i am having an issue with my rear tires being cocked in at the top causing wear on the inside of the tires (2013 legacy 2.5i)...i am going to replace the rear struts this weekend...could these bushings or the control arms be causing the tires to be cocked inward at the top?
Your videos are the best. Period.
They really are, aren't they? Knowledgeable, experienced, honest and with very clear descriptions. Haven't found anything better.
supposedly subaru switched to that style of bushing as give better vibration absorption .
certainly don't last well, although not big deal replace .
DIY guys can buy a cup and forcing screw set for doing bushings, can be had around 100 bucks mark, you can even make your own cups if wanted and use the screw from a old mechanical car jack or similar .
They pretty easy bushes multi drill the rubber out then cut the metal sleeve to remove .
Looked like nice day be outside , another job jobbed ...
Great video. What is the OD of the Snap On cup ram tool you used (BJP1-43A)? Snap On says 71.88mm OD but the Subaru lower bushing diameter is only 60mm. Something is not right. I plan to install some Superpro poly bushings in my Subaru. Thanks.
Edit. The correct OD of the BJP1-43A ram cup is 58.9mm. Snap On catalog has a typo. There is a small lip on one end of the cup that contacts the bushing and fits perfect.
Edit: I used the universal press and pull sleeve kit (amazon $120) and installed a bushing from Superpro USA instead of the crappy Subaru OEM. the press kit comes with several silver colored press cups to remove and install the large front lower control arm bushing. I also replaced the smaller forward bushing but used a 25mm deep impact socket with an OD of 36.5mm or 1-7/16" since the kit did not have this size cup.
Very informative video . Well done !
I need to replace mine in the rear of my baja. I wonder if the 05-09 outback bushing will fit the same. And, I wonder if there's a cheaper version of that press tool. that'll be something I can use quite often since my whole family has a subaru. haha
I had my Subaru main dealer replace all four bushings yesterday. They were completely shot. The difference with the new ones is literally night and day. 👍
Here in Wisconsin this car would be considered to be in mint condition as far as the rust goes. Not hating just jealous cause every single car I work on is a crusty bucket
@mrsubaru1387 if you press in New bushings do you need to preform a wheel alignment? I need to replace my 2 lower front ones here soon. Thanks you for the informative video.
I drive a 2019 subaru crosstrek the dealership advised me that I should have my bushings replaced at 30k miles. I took a look at the bushings myself I didn't see any deformations to the bushings. Just got cautionary purpose should I have them replaced anyway before a install a 2" lift?
Morning sir. I have a 2012 impreza. There are noise in the front and mainly the back too. Was thinking of changing all the settings (bushings and struts) or there are other things that can be causing this whole discomfort.? What are the full components that may causing this though?
Thanks heaps, also thanks heaps for your video about pcv - saved me a heap of money.
I brought my control arms to a local shop to get them swapped...
The owner didn't have proper attachments for a press; respect. Ar lease he said he can't do it...
Second shop did it but, butchered orientation despite my clear markings... WTF?
I hate to tell any mechanic how to the job...
1. Take a vice. (Or whatever this thingy that you put stuff in, to hold it, is called) it can work as a press
2. Carefully measure diameter of the bushing.
3. Buy a cheap ball bearing of roughly the same size. Grind it down to ideal outer diameter.
4. Remove, press bushing with a vice.
Most of diy guys have a vice. Ball bearing is few moneys (€/£/$).
I purchased a vice specifically for this job, cheap one is 60€ in Europe.
So I already replaced my front and rear shocks. I also changed the front axles. However, my 2002 Subaru Outback VDC wagon still makes squeaking sounds. What do I need to change now? It has like 182,000 miles on it.
Also I’m in Maryland and the entire subframe of my 2005 impreza is rusted out through the black paint I’m going to replace it but it’s really a hassle what salt does to cars on the east coast
4:50 Mid-Atlantic too, haha. Those snap right off and have to be drilled out or better yet just buy a new knuckle. Nightmares.
any cleaning/prepping of the arm's hole before pressing in replacement?
You can rent the bushing press from Advance Auto for anyone wondering. Part #648604.
Ordering new assemblies will not work for me, I need the bushings out to have the control arms powder coated. Great vid. Thank you!
Looks like you recently replaced that outer CV joint boot. Nice video.
Video is shot, haven't had the time to edit it yet.
Do any of the oem front and rear bushings, ball joints, sway bar links ect. on your store front page work for the 04 Subaru outback h6 sedan. Im trying to replace alot on it and the dealership is trying to charge alot for the exact same parts.
Is it the same tool / adapter for the front arm bushing? My front passenger bushing is as cracked as the one you show and replace here, but the other bushing on the same arm (nearer the front) is also pretty loose compared to the driver side.
So I had to drive before letting my '93 Impreza warm up and it made a horrible squealing sound and the speedometer is now stuck reading ~45mph high. Is there an easy fix to that or would I have to tear apart the dash? I've been using a GPS for speed so it's not worth fixing if it's a whole big project.
Yikes the Blue Ridge with that much slop , I was getting paid to drive up and down the 501 every other day or so for a while. And cant wait to take the car over there. I feel i know those roads like the back of my hand. Question is the VA chassis control arms seem a bit bigger. And will the autozone / advanced loner tool work Part # 648617.
Hi thanks for the sharing.. Appreciated.. I'm from Malaysia Johor
Wouldn't clamping the tool in a vise make it easier to keep steady instead of having to situate it on the ground? Might make it easier on your back too :)
did you do the alignment after replacing the bushings?
I think they have a bushing kit for tie rods control arms sway bar for 70 something on its either ebay or amazon I forget.
What is the special size for the cups? If I get a different bushing press none of the cups/presses are going to work?
So working on my mom's 08 Highlander v6 Toyota has the same front end set up so it might be Toyota part sharing is a good thing or bad?
What size cups are needed for the press?
Chassis on that car looks better than my wife's Crosstrek with 40 K ....
Hate winter salt😬
Which impact swivel sockets you recommend? I have 10-19mm snap on deep sockets and I really love the way they bite.
These in the video are Snap-on. No real complaints.
I have 2016 trek with of 35kkm and the bushings already need to be replaced. In OBK H6 (2007) I put on polyurethane, but in trek on oem it's already hard.
Can't you get a loaner press from local auto stores? I'm on a budget and have hand tools. Looks like I can put a wrench on the end of the press?
Hey Mr. Subaru! love the suby dedicated channel. I have learned a lot just browsing. Any tips on removing the rear knuckle bolts on an 01 forester? That's like the only subject I haven't found on your channel haha.
I'm also a sub mechanic. You mean the long bolt that runs front to back behind the knuckle?
Lots and lots of patience, penetrating oil, and really long breaker bar, and a really strong air hammer. That's about your only hope. If you can break the bolt free from the bushings by turning it then you can air hammer it out from the thread end but you really gotta take your time to break as much rust free manually first
aaaaand this is why I just replace the entire control arm. thats a spendy tool, looks like it works really well though!
Gotta watch which control arms you buy. Some are cheaper junk that feel noticeable lighter in hand.
I know for my 10 outback the LCA comes with bushings but no ball joints when bought from Subaru.
Snapon makes it easier, airhammer with a chisel bit. Then press in the bushing after
You are correct sir, we hate you. I have taken to filling the pinch gap with clear silicone after installing the new pinch bolts. My theory is that the salt water gets into this joint to corrode the pinch bolt into place. We will see what happens in a few years when I have to take one off again.
Any suggestions for those of us that arent near a machine shop and dont have the mini press?
Way cool press 👍
Thanks. 👍🏻
I have a 2016 Impreza wagon and was just wondering, do I have to remove the ball joint, or can i just leave the pinch bolt in and loosen the castle nut instead to drop the CA?
I had to cut it short as soon as u said don't attempt this.all I needed to hear. Liked n commented for ya. I appreciate not watching a 20 min video just to b told that, 16 mins in
Yup first bolt broke for me. I spent all day trying to get it out with a bolt extractor. Finally gave up... Mechanic says the $150 job is now $700. Yay for trying new things....
I had an oil change and inspection last year and the sericer said that the rear bushings are torn and need to be replaced else they wont be able to pass it next time. Said it would be near 1000$
Just here to leave my hate comment on the pinch Bolt.lol keep up the good work on the Subarus. love your videos.
How often do the forward bushings fail?