The thing that sucks about fake specs is it makes it harder for the honest companies to compete. The uneducated consumer will buy the "more powerful" product and actually get less performance.
@@wal FRAUD!!! Call the Federal Trade Commission! This is a fact, not lost on the marketers targeting consumers whom might not know the math as well as we do. To me, the fuses are the first clue. Assume a class "D" amplifier is about 85% efficient. 40 amps is 480 watts at 12 volts. That can only produce 400 watts RMS reliably, leaving no margin for clipping, which can load the supply another 34%. Realistically, it's a 300 watt amplifier.(1/4 its advertised rating)
Vincent unfortunately the FCC allowed max power ratings for audio amplifiers to be at 10% THD, so they get away with MURDER and the FTC won't do squat about it. not disagreeing with you about it being a FRAUD.
@@modelnutty6503 at 10% this amp would have reasonably accurate ratings. I don't think there is any oversight of the 12v industry. Mktg depts. can print whatever number they think they can sell.
Alot of these manufacturers have no respect for their customer base but I cant say enough how much I appreciate you saving us all time and money love your channel
My dad worked for Zenith TV in Chicago from 1947 til 1971...really nice televisions, hand wired tube eventually solid state then Goldstar bought the company, what a joke turned the Zenith name to total shit.
I wonder if some company bought the blaupunkt name and just sells their cheap made products. I’m old enough to remember blaupunkt being almost as high end as alpine.
Yes it is, I still have some Blaupunkt equipment that was built in the 80's and 90's, the head unit in my car was purchased and installed in 1987 and still works and sounds awesome.
Please Big D as a former Blaupunkt rep back in the 90's my heart can't take it anymore, STOP IT !! 😆 The last 2 vids have been painful to watch. The old VCP amps and speaker days are long gone. The Toronto HU was one of the best sounding of all time, most thought it was kinda ugly so it didn't get the credit it deserved. My mind is boggled at the desecration of a once great pinnacle of car audio. 😢😢😢
I always thought they was high quality equipment back in the day but like alot of company's fell off probably ventured out of quality equipment in to mass production.. makes me feel like I did years ago walking into walmart seeing a mongoose bmxbike for sale at Walmart
It’s pretty simple to me, if I see an amp that says it puts out 1500 watts for only 60 bucks, I know it’s bs. A quality amp that puts out what is says, isn’t usually cheap
people here appear to be all wrapped up in HUGE numbers when theres STILL a CONSTANT.... something that still remains the same in the equation. The Car Stereo environment. In reality ya really can get by with as little as 200 real watts.... Thats about all ya use driving in traffic, in the city etc. Sure theres room to BLAST a sound system. But for the most part those giant power sucking monstrosities are barely running at all in real world settings. Heres to indestructible reliability. That thing would have BLOWN UP... 25 years ago at double the fuse rating and 1/2 ohm load... I used to do that stuff.... Test the LIMITS?... and beyond. PROPS Big D WiZ for pushing them... limits. BDBD/2021
@Ryan Roberts I am 62.... and can still hear... installing since i was a kid I went on to sound engineering in live settings.... Ear protection is the key.... and there goes yer... SQ....LOL
Truth be told, it kinda hard to find a 200 watt rms amplifier for around $60 that’ll power a pair of 100 watt subs. So there’s a market out there for those who don’t want to spend $150 on a 1500 watt rms monoblock cause all they want is a couple of hundred watts on the cheapies for their kids car, their work car, or for some garage boom boom with some old school pioneers or gold letter kickers. Yes there are boss amps… I know, but they have gone significantly up in price with their cheap $55 r1100.1 now costing nearly $100. It’s getting harder and harder to get a low power $100 amp and sub combo setup nowadays. Great video Big D!
@@StanTheObserver-lo8rx Agreed with Stan. He must be a youngin' or whippersnapper. I remember just as well. Back in 1991 actual excitement could be felt if someone in HS told me they wanted Blaupunkt installed in their car. Denon pull outs too. Alpine was everywhere, but still holy grail at the time. I put a newer Alpine in my 1991 CRX years ago with a 1993 Collins bass tube for retro look. I wanted the car light. Blaupunkt had most sturdy switchgear and tight gap faceplates. Though some Sony units at the time did as well. I need a damn time machine! This amp's PCB is really nice for real - like Alpine actually. Surprised ni protection for low impedance loads - must be for shorts and thermal only.
@@joesshows6793 Holy crap! You remember Service Merchandise too?! I remember picking up stuff from remote Sears catalog stores. There was a store called Best too. In NJ we had the deep blue, high gloss, hard bound, thick paged, full color Bennett Brothers catalogs and catalog stores. And no, Blaupunkt would never be seen in Bennett Bros at any time!! (Maybe a MRC Tamiya Monster Beetle, Pumpkin, or Blackfoot.) Blaupunkt was only awesome from 1991 to 1999 (GPS systems early 2000's too). Before and after the decade of the 1990's they are/were shit. I sound contradictory, but this is true. Power Acoustic and Jensen was a flea market brand of the 1990's, but not Blaupunkt at that time. OK, maybe not Jensen but definitely PYRAMID!!
Great test! It might not be a good amp for tearing the block up, but it could make for a good desk amp for testing subs before installing them. I mean, $60 for 300W< is honestly not bad!
Not bad at all shit I’m thinking about getting one and throw it in the hatch of my car with an 8 inch sub that will be just enough for some good bass to keep inside the car to help out the factory speakers
I added comments to others saying Blaupunkt "is always crap". Alpine, Blaupunkt, Denon, Sony, and Clarion were tops in the 1990's. Blaupunkt had too many buttons (like most older dumb BMW and Audi cars...), but those buttons looked and felt perfect. A little surprised the 'protection' circuit did nothing at 0.5Ohm - it must be for shorts and thermal only. The main PCB is very, very nice for a $60 retail amplifier - like Alpine. Sign of the times. Subcontracting quality Engineering specs and production to China and Korea can produce beauty like this. Sure only a 150W/250W beauty, but all you need is there. I would stuff three or four of these into a car and make a decent budget system. Thanks Mr. Williston/BigDWiz!
Darn. I just realized it is not full range Class D and the low pass crossover is not defeatable. Ok, one or two of these with a 2 or 4 channel for a budget system.
40A@14.4 is 576w, 563W rms seems mathematically resonable if you get ~97.7% efficiency, which is highly suspect even for a D-class amp. However from the testing it looks as if the amp hit 43A , never even gets close to 60% efficiency. Makes me wonder if on their bench, they packed it dry ice, fed it 18 volts to get the current down, and ran it up to 10%THD, then let the smoke out before the fuses popped. And the lab techs said "yeah, 563 watts Klaus before ekshplodenguten! Ok good Oskar we write that down thank you!" The 1501's predecessor, the 1500m, looks to have specs(120w at 4, 200w at 2) which is closer to what a 1501 actually does.
Hi fonics ZUESS AND ULYSSES #1 In the 90's. I've had friends pushing 8 15" subwoofers with either one of those amps. Budget amps wouldve been Coustic 460 & 360.
@@travisj.1938 oh shoot. Now I feel bad. Nothing wrong with vintage Alpha's!! Is my memory wrong, or did some models have metal TO3s like Linear Power? That was the only burned Alpha I had seen. It was summer and someone kept clipping it into 2OHM mono load. Stupid owners fault.
If someone thinks they're going to get 1000 watts out of a $60 dollar amp, they're not serious enough about mobile audio to care about ratings in the first place.
I mean, for the price point, this and 2 of their $20 subs you tested still give you easily what you pay for in a shoestring budget system that you prob won’t need to upgrade any electric besides maybe your battery and even that is debatable. I was pretty surprised it survived that .5 ohm run tbh. Definitely bad branding/rating/labeling tho
My jvc is 500 watt bought it and by 2 Boston 8s from a friend for $25 but duel has a amp you can find at most walmarts for $50 it pushes just above 500watt
I just received my AMP1501 from Amazon. I have a SKAR audio DVC 12” IX series wired to 2 Ohm. I put it in a custom box tuned at 35hz. My sub is rated for 250watts RMS and 500watts max. I bought this amp for this subwoofer just because of this video. Thanks for the info. Great content.
First exposure to Blaupunkt was the new system my roommate had installed in his brand new 1974 Dodge van. 😁 Blaupunkt HU with Alpine speakers to fill that cavern of a vehicle. Sounded awesome. I bought a Sanyo Bi-amplified HU 2 watts per channel, rms to the front, and 14 watts/channel rms to the back deck speakers. On end of year sale, that Sanyo was about $250 in 1975. Sounded better than anything I've had since then. That includes the Monsoon system in my VW, with big amp in the trunk. I've questioned specs ever since. Why did that 70s and 80s equipment sound so good?
This is why the consumers has to educate themselves! This amp would make for a decent start system and a simple install with 4 coaxials and a single sub!
I've bought 3 of these for 2 of my cars and my wife's car. All are running 4 Ohm into kicker 10 inch subs. I liked it for the price and remote so it's easy to turn the bass down or up without touching the headunit. One is paired with a 90s blaupunkt cassette deck with front and rear pre amps and still kicks out loud bass. They've been well worth the money to me.
Blaupunkt used to be expensive and VERY high end. That was back when Bosch owned them. If you get old 80s and 90s blaupunkt, you'd see all speakers and equipment MADE not designated in Germany. Now it's simply another name. Some company bought them out and builds Chinese crap. Same route as RCA, Emerson, Craig, and the like. Sad.
That thing was a trooper! It's ratings were embellished, but a good solid little amplifier for the price. At less the $.30 per watt, it is definitely good value. Especially with the current limit to keep the output inductor out of saturation, and protect its output transistors. Very forgiving to miss matched load impedances, an easy mistake for a novice to make.
It was interesting to see that Blaupunkt history page only went to 2010. They were liquidated in 2016. Who knows where these come from, they most likely just bought the rights to the name so they could drum up business off an old outdated recognizable brand name. Classic brick and morter
I remember seeing Polaroid DVD players in the early 2000’s and was like “what? 🤔” That’s when i learned how this happened. I should’ve explained better in the video...
Williston Audio Labs LOL my family had a Polaroid 47” flatscreen 1080p tv for a few years and I always thought it was hilarious that it was a “Polaroid.” It was a decent TV though.
I know this is an old video, but I've had one laying around for a while, waiting on my bass amp to return from SUNDOWN, I pulled it out, ran it at 2ohm on a 3000w rms sub and surprisingly had a lil thump!, so I said F it, wired it down to.0.5ohm and blew the 20a fuses, replaced them with 2 40s and man listen hea.....dis lil bih is bumping im in shock😱........
I have this amp and i am impressed with it for the price. I have a pioneer champion now but honestly the blaupunkt worked awesome for the price and stayed nice and cool.
I have a quick question. I recently bought and installed 2 Orion Cobalt 10" subs and a matching Orion Cobalt monobloc amp. It's just for my work truck, and sounds damned nice. I liked it so much I bought a similar setup for my daily driver as the stock HU died. I bought a set of Boss 12" subs which look a lot like your test speaker there with a rolled foam surround. (they were out of the Orions in either 10 or 12..grr...) I WAS able to get another, identical Orion Cobalt amp, and Although it sounds ok in the cabin (trunk mounted bandpass), I have basically no cone control if I phase them punching out (which REALLY makes no sense in a sealed front bandpass) I phase them punching in instead, and it gets much tighter, but I can't push them as hard and had to turn the gain down (not taking advantage of the sealed chamber) Is it my speakers? (no broken/delaminated spiders or anything, I did take it all apart) Is it my setup? I tried messing with the LPF setting a lot, and it helped some, but I know I can push these way harder...the gain is turned to about 10 oclock on the dial! Any help would be greatly appreciated. (both vehicles have at least a 105amp alternator, and batteries about 6 months old)
overhyped, horribly under performing, BUT IT HAS A BASS KNOB. every single amp that has a plug in it for one should have one in the box, regardless of quality level. no one will change my mind. its like, $2 in parts in almost any case i care to name, regardless of price point. zero justification for some companies to not include them.
My friend bought the Rockford Fosgate Power 1500.1 BDCP (honestly can’t remember the exact model) and it was like $750 and didn’t come with a bass knob in the box. But my RF Prime 1200.1 came with a nice metal one and it was only $230. So weird.
awesome video..this company has never been known for quality even in the 90's..the name blaupunkt sounds like someone is puking and sharting at the same time...love the channel big d
I have a old jeep cj7, all stock, with a retro sound in-dash radio that my sons gave me for Christmas. I installed it soldering 12 ga wire to 4 speakers, (2) 5-1/2" dia. front speakers and (2) 6x9 rear speakers. The speakers are mounted in thick abs black peaked boxes. The in-dash radio looks jeep original great, but the sound is dismal, even for an old guy like me. I think I need an amplifier, and looking for info on utube I came across your channel. You have a very informative channel and your presentation was terrific! Good Jo!, Well Done!
300 Watts at 2 ohms for $60???? So what if they lie about the power. Can't beat it. 1501 means 150x1 at 4 ohms. Not bad at all for the price. I had one. Decent amp for 60 bucks
I had always thought they were a high end brand at one point. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes and more used their speakers and or headunits in their cars at one point. The Pontiac G8 and GTO came with Blaupunkt stereos that were very good. The G8 system came with two 10” DVC subs in the rear deck and the stock amp actually had a gain knob (unheard of in stock audio.) Oddly though, there was an issue with the blaupunkt subs being wired wrong from the factory and many people rewire them.
Wish their was a consumer product board that would prevent blatant false advertising companies from being able to sell their products without getting prosecuted for fraud. What if you only get half the milage from your engine oil.. I bet the people saying it's not that bad, wouldn't be saying that if that failed to perform!
@@wal That really makes me miss my RF BD1000A1. Power hungry as **** but it just kept asking for more. I should never have sold it when all the shiny new tripath topology amps came out (Clarion I'm looking at you).
As soon as you popped those ATC 20's I was like "Please god let him put bigger fuses in and lower the impedance!!" ... 5 seconds later my prayers were answered!
I remember my mom had a old blaupunkt head unit in the 90’s t was detachable face and the face plate was super thin it played cd’s but I always thought it was wildly mediocre at best it made noise tho lol
180 kHz is the switching frequency of the amplifier output stage. That high frequency is pulse width modulated, to produce the audio signal, then it's filtered through that smaller toroidal inductor, and a couple of capacitors, so that high frequency isn't passed to the speaker. Most full range class D amplifier switch between 150, and 220 kHz. the audio frequency is limited by the low pass output filter. Usually about 22 kHz. They should have labeled it as the "carrier frequency", or "switching frequency". It's the ONE thing, that's probably accurate.
Vincent Robinette It depends. Class D amplifiers need to switch their MOSFETs in the order of magnitudes more than what they put out. Example would be a 333KHz for a full-range single-chip IC, but internally it is interpreted as 3Mhz or more. The reason there is so many class D bass amps that can handle oh-so-low resistance values is the fact that they use lots of high current, and that itself increases the switching losses(capacitive and inductive reactance of the transistor). So in practice, since they output high current with the switching being slow, they aren't good for midrange/fullrange systems due to lack of switching that causes distortion at higher frequencies. Full-range class D amplifiers switch at the values I put earlier(300Khz or more)to ensure the least harmonics that creeps the spectrum response of the amp!
@@ruikazane5123 Most amps I've tested have been in the 250 kHz range. They usually use a 22 microhenry inductor, paired with .68 microfarads for the output capacitor. As you increase the rail voltage of the amplifier, the ripple current of the inductor and capacitor goes up linearly to the voltage, but the switching transition losses for the transistors goes up quadratically. to reduce those transition losses, the only thing that can be done, is to reduce switching speed, which means larger inductor and capacitor, to keep the ripple current under control. I have designed amplifiers with low pass filters with critical frequencies of about 7 kHz, the frequency response of the amplifier is linear to 20 kHz, or even slightly above. The caveat: you can't get full rail to rail amplitude at higher frequencies. Because the L/C lowpass filter is 2nd order, at 14 kHz, the available output voltage is only 1/4 the rail to rail voltage of the amplifier. That makes the amplifier not the best choice for driving tweeters. There's just no headroom. With a 7 kHz low pass filter, if you pass 20 kHz through it. you only get 12% of your rail voltage! When listening to full range music, I find that the amplitude of the highest frequencies stays within that, and the music does not sound "muffled". To achieve that, my designs include the output low pass filter in the feedback loop. Rather than looking at the "frequency response" of an amplifier, it's more relevant to look at the "slew rate". That's a measurement of how fast it can change its output 1 volt. A high power amplifier, with lots of supply voltage, large inductor, large capacitor, and slow switching speed can have the same "slew rate" as a small, high speed switching amplifier, with less supply voltage. smaller inductor, smaller capacitor. It just takes more time, to swing across all that extra voltage.
Big D sir I have been a fan of yours for years. Great channel and video sir and thank you for your channel. I have collected alot of the old school amps
In 2011, Blaupunkt as a managed brand name, outsourced all production to China and practically no more " Robert Bosch era " products were being made. Those audio devices made thereafter, didn't hold the same standards. Not surprised at the test results btw, that were amazing with that amp dyno. 👌😯
I'm glad the dyno held together.. That was a monster big D. So I guess 1%thd is the new normal. I remember when if you had an amp that was1% it was considered a dirty amp. But I'm old school...lol
You know something you don't see is people modding or beefing up amplifiers.just seems like there's a hobby there.dont really know if it's possible but would be neat to see some little amp with crazy azz power coming out of it.as always Big D love your videos and yes my son and I are still enjoying the Orion 8000d you kindly sent us.blowed some kicker12s now it's pushing 2 Skar vd-12 like a mugg. Lol
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Most of the time the so-called ratings are absolutely meaningless. So how does it sound? 100 watts per channel actual output sounds like a decent dead for $60 if it actually sounds good.
your initial explanation about the fuses said everything. ever since the FCC allowed an audio amp max output to be rated at 10% THD, manufacturers have been getting away with MURDER. my "safe rule of thumb" is expect 1/3 what they claim (at best and max), so a "TWO HUNNA WATTZ" stereo amp, means 33w per channel at 4 ohm. to me not that big a deal because I already expect it, and use the least expensive most efficient drivers I can get my hands on so stuff is LOUD. might be a good idea to explain my "safe rule of thumb" to others so they aren't disappointed trying to drive 500w speakers with 30w of power, they'll save a bundle and be much happier overall. this of course doesn't apply to REAL high end car audio gear that can blow out your windows, that's an entirely different level :)
sterr1 riot was my first amp due to budget at the time. Wasnt as bad as i always thought it’d be for a single 12 but my current skar amp kicks its ass all day
I have to disagree in the 80’s it was good quality equipment, they where one of the first to bring out a real 40W amp with a swichmode boost converter in it so you could get 40W in 4 ohm.
You should have heard our old '60s home stereo/record player, & my '70s portable. That would absolutely make you delete your uninformed comment. From a lifetime guitarist\music lover, with many audiophile friends over the years.
Some people might think they are good but if you actually heard equipment that IS good then you would know. Just my opinion. You get what you pay for in car audio
It reminds me when during the '90s manufacturers were using the PMPO power rating as a bait... In any case this amplifier is a scam from every angle you watch it: it's a class D with an efficiency more in line with a class AB...
I love coming across these videos I haven't seen and I've seen quite a few ads on OfferUp lately where people are running these crazy custom sub setups with a Blaupunkt or Planet Audio amp and they're selling the entire setup to go with something better. I've seen some high end subs that these water heads are trying to power with something like this amp. I can only hope that a reputable shop isn't pushing these out the door to unsuspecting victims....hahahaha ANYWAYS, Love the channel, love the vids and love the honest reviews you do brother!!!! If i can get my old Autotek 600.s fixed correctly, I may contact you to see about doing a test on it...It's a super cool flush mount amp and I actually used it in a few DB drag competitions back in the day.
I don't understand how a old established company like Blaupunkt would market something so fraudulently. As you say, one like at the fuse ratings tells you over a 1000w is not feasible as a continuous rating, although they don't say continuous, only rms. Did you approach Blaupunkt to justify their spec?
For the same amount or less (currently $34.99 Walmart.com) coin that little Dual XPR82D that Ryan tested a year ago seems like a much better deal per dollar in the same basic footprint..
I just bought this amp but i am only using a pair of MtX 12 terminators. The speakers were rated 1200 like the amp basically and i knew they would probably be lies but at least the two would be about the same power even if its a lie lol it was all super cheap it does come with a well made remote.
Blaupunkt was a known brand ( esp Head units ) in New Zealand. Sad how many great brands of the 90s have disappeared or not as popular as they once were
This is great! Thank you for the video. I'm building an all blaupunkt system in a blue car,themed for color. I did the fuse math,and will get me the numbers I need. Super budget,and all warranted. I think its gonna be a good setup. 3 6k,fused at 120A,so 1200w,a 1k,fused at 60A,so 600w their processors eq,6 of the 12s,tes tr ed here,and the all digi HU that was tested here also. Shuld be fun.
Output does not surprise me from Blaupunkt current line. I'm a long time fan of Blaupunkt and have plenty of Velocity series amp I wish you could test. Would love to see how amps from 2008 compare. Maybe submit a VA2200 for you? :)
They should have just been honest with the advertisement. It seem to be a solid little 300 watt amp, for the price. They should have just rolled with that.
I used to run Blaupunkt back in the 90's I had a pair of 12" Blau pro comps in a Q Logic bandpass. I just recently was able to find a couple and plan to rebuild one of my first ever systems just for the memories. :)
By today's standard this is obviously a awful amp. But, just imagine if you could have bought a 300-400 watt amp for $64 back in 1990. We would have all thought that was the deal of a lifetime back then. Goes to show how much times have changed and how cheap power has become. Can't imagine they will sell very many of these, especially after word gets out about how little power they make.
Well, you have to admit: The price is right. At $.50 per watt, it's a pretty good deal. Just look at the fuse amperage rating, multiply it by 12 (volts), a class "D" amplifier is likely to produce about 60 to 70% of that.
Eevblog took all of BidDWiz's Blaupunkt reviews to heart and saw how many subsidiaries ("Brand Partners") Blaupunkt now has. Each country gets its own set of speakers and amplifiers. It seems the US gets the biggest subwoofers but the smallest amps (with the most bloated specs). Spain gets real amplifiers with triple 40A fuses and 1200x1 ratings. Totally possible (probably 900-1000W). USA only gets 3 amplifiers - this one, a 2 channel, and 4 channel. We do have the better head units - if you can find them. All is run directly and indirectly by a Chinese partner via New York city.
This brand was super popular in the early to mid 90’s. I had an almost full Blaupunkt system that consisted of removable face plate head unit with tape deck, 2 pairs of tweeters for front and back pillars, 3 way 6.5” speakers for the front doors and if I remember correctly the 6x9s I had in the back window of my car were only 2 way and that’s why I added the second pair of tweeters. The speakers were pushed by a Rockford Fosgate 4 way amp but unfortunately I can’t remember what the wattage for all that was. I’ve gotta day that they sounded amazing. I listen to everything from Bob Marley, Grateful Dead and Pink Floyd to Hank Williams, Merle Hagard and Willie Nelson to any hip hop/rap that’s worth listening to which back then there was lots of great rap. That system paired with the two 15” Kicked Competition subs and a custom potted box that I built made for some great listening.
After thinking about how far the dyno' RMS was from both the manufacturer stated RMS and the RMS based on the "fuse*14.4", I wondered if this unit might be defective. Have you ever considered testing another unit when you find a product dyno'd so far off from these figures ( manufacture stated, fuse formula)?
![$150 SPL Challenge? Maximum Boom for Minimum Cost [4K]](/img/n.gif)
The thing that sucks about fake specs is it makes it harder for the honest companies to compete. The uneducated consumer will buy the "more powerful" product and actually get less performance.
You said it!!
@@wal FRAUD!!! Call the Federal Trade Commission! This is a fact, not lost on the marketers targeting consumers whom might not know the math as well as we do. To me, the fuses are the first clue. Assume a class "D" amplifier is about 85% efficient. 40 amps is 480 watts at 12 volts. That can only produce 400 watts RMS reliably, leaving no margin for clipping, which can load the supply another 34%. Realistically, it's a 300 watt amplifier.(1/4 its advertised rating)
Vincent unfortunately the FCC allowed max power ratings for audio amplifiers to be at 10% THD, so they get away with MURDER and the FTC won't do squat about it. not disagreeing with you about it being a FRAUD.
@@modelnutty6503 at 10% this amp would have reasonably accurate ratings. I don't think there is any oversight of the 12v industry. Mktg depts. can print whatever number they think they can sell.
Reviews reviews reviews
So they just mistakenly added a 1 in front of that 125 watt rms rating
Just a minor typo folks
👈😂
Ah, very good! I was afraid they over rated it for a moment! What a sucker I was....
They must have made a typo on the price and added a 0 also.
@@Python1567 its actually a headphone amp. Guaranteed to push your Beats to the max...maybe...at least for a note or two.
yeah just normal monday typing...
Alot of these manufacturers have no respect for their customer base but I cant say enough how much I appreciate you saving us all time and money love your channel
RIP old school Blaupunkt!
Sad how the brands of the past have been bought and repurposed for cheap junk.
jeffrey carroll
Good example is Autotek.
Agree, my 80s 4x25W blaupunkt still works to this day, these days it just follows same path as most cheap manufacturers.
Wrong it was because there was no CZcams and folks to show us the truth with real test results
My dad worked for Zenith TV in Chicago from 1947 til 1971...really nice televisions, hand wired tube eventually solid state then Goldstar bought the company, what a joke turned the Zenith name to total shit.
Sony is the perfect example of this, all their products including head units and subs have gone to shit
I wonder if some company bought the blaupunkt name and just sells their cheap made products. I’m old enough to remember blaupunkt being almost as high end as alpine.
Lance DUB-U
I was thinking the same
That is EXACTLY what happened, a Chinese company bought it.
Thats messed up...Blaupunkt was THE car audio to have back in the day.
Yes it is, I still have some Blaupunkt equipment that was built in the 80's and 90's, the head unit in my car was purchased and installed in 1987 and still works and sounds awesome.
Their head units were killer back in the day
Please Big D as a former Blaupunkt rep back in the 90's my heart can't take it anymore, STOP IT !! 😆
The last 2 vids have been painful to watch. The old VCP amps and speaker days are long gone. The Toronto HU was one of the best sounding of all time, most thought it was kinda ugly so it didn't get the credit it deserved. My mind is boggled at the desecration of a once great pinnacle of car audio. 😢😢😢
Sad, so sad, but I still like the $20, 12” subs!
I never had Blaupunkt amps but the PC & Velocity woofers were easily comparable to offerings from Orion and Rockford Fosgate back in the mid 90s.
I always thought they was high quality equipment back in the day but like alot of company's fell off probably ventured out of quality equipment in to mass production.. makes me feel like I did years ago walking into walmart seeing a mongoose bmxbike for sale at Walmart
@@clittle1559 i feel your pain brother! Same here.
Its like finding Starter gear at Kmart.
The Toronto was a marvel.I sold Blaupunkt for years and really loved the brand.
It’s pretty simple to me, if I see an amp that says it puts out 1500 watts for only 60 bucks, I know it’s bs. A quality amp that puts out what is says, isn’t usually cheap
25 years ago This thing would have sold like hotcakes! LOL!
people here appear to be all wrapped up in HUGE numbers when theres STILL a CONSTANT.... something that still remains the same in the equation. The Car Stereo environment. In reality ya really can get by with as little as 200 real watts.... Thats about all ya use driving in traffic, in the city etc. Sure theres room to BLAST a sound system. But for the most part those giant power sucking monstrosities are barely running at all in real world settings. Heres to indestructible reliability. That thing would have BLOWN UP... 25 years ago at double the fuse rating and 1/2 ohm load... I used to do that stuff.... Test the LIMITS?... and beyond. PROPS Big D WiZ for pushing them... limits. BDBD/2021
@@bigdogbrodavepresents6178 agreed
@Ryan Roberts I am 62.... and can still hear... installing since i was a kid I went on to sound engineering in live settings.... Ear protection is the key.... and there goes yer... SQ....LOL
Truth be told, it kinda hard to find a 200 watt rms amplifier for around $60 that’ll power a pair of 100 watt subs. So there’s a market out there for those who don’t want to spend $150 on a 1500 watt rms monoblock cause all they want is a couple of hundred watts on the cheapies for their kids car, their work car, or for some garage boom boom with some old school pioneers or gold letter kickers. Yes there are boss amps… I know, but they have gone significantly up in price with their cheap $55 r1100.1 now costing nearly $100. It’s getting harder and harder to get a low power $100 amp and sub combo setup nowadays. Great video Big D!
Sad to see a premium brand in such a state :(
Lmao this brand was never premium
@@fatstacks89 Not true. Blaupunkt was like Alpine,top of the line in the 80's car stereo equipment.
@@StanTheObserver-lo8rx Agreed with Stan. He must be a youngin' or whippersnapper. I remember just as well. Back in 1991 actual excitement could be felt if someone in HS told me they wanted Blaupunkt installed in their car. Denon pull outs too. Alpine was everywhere, but still holy grail at the time. I put a newer Alpine in my 1991 CRX years ago with a 1993 Collins bass tube for retro look. I wanted the car light. Blaupunkt had most sturdy switchgear and tight gap faceplates. Though some Sony units at the time did as well. I need a damn time machine! This amp's PCB is really nice for real - like Alpine actually. Surprised ni protection for low impedance loads - must be for shorts and thermal only.
scuff I feel the exact same way about Sony, Hifonics, Soundstream and Lanzar. Those companies back in the day made AWESOME products!!
@@joesshows6793 Holy crap! You remember Service Merchandise too?! I remember picking up stuff from remote Sears catalog stores. There was a store called Best too. In NJ we had the deep blue, high gloss, hard bound, thick paged, full color Bennett Brothers catalogs and catalog stores. And no, Blaupunkt would never be seen in Bennett Bros at any time!! (Maybe a MRC Tamiya Monster Beetle, Pumpkin, or Blackfoot.) Blaupunkt was only awesome from 1991 to 1999 (GPS systems early 2000's too). Before and after the decade of the 1990's they are/were shit. I sound contradictory, but this is true. Power Acoustic and Jensen was a flea market brand of the 1990's, but not Blaupunkt at that time. OK, maybe not Jensen but definitely PYRAMID!!
Looks like blaupunkt went KERPLUNK!!!!
😂👍
Great test! It might not be a good amp for tearing the block up, but it could make for a good desk amp for testing subs before installing them. I mean, $60 for 300W< is honestly not bad!
Not bad at all shit I’m thinking about getting one and throw it in the hatch of my car with an 8 inch sub that will be just enough for some good bass to keep inside the car to help out the factory speakers
Finally I can stop being asked to test this amp
You should test this amp!!!!
After the budget baller subs, had to try this. Oh well, can’t win them all...
@@wal I wanna see the 4 channel.
I want ya to test the jvc lineup. 🤣
ryan give those ds18 genesis a try on the dyno those seems sub par
Buyer: this is wrong watts
Blaupunkt: you been punkt
You be correct 👍
Maybe the silkscreen guy forgot the dot on the model number... maybe it's supposed to be AMP150.1 and not AMP1501. ;)
I think U right...
I was thinking the same. Probably a chinglish translation error. Or I’d hope.
How are these things not a clear false-advertisement?
This is a company (many do this) that flat-out lies to it's customers.
Dude I know I got this one amp its 85% empty space says 4k watt nope itll do maybe 800watt 1k very max
I added comments to others saying Blaupunkt "is always crap". Alpine, Blaupunkt, Denon, Sony, and Clarion were tops in the 1990's. Blaupunkt had too many buttons (like most older dumb BMW and Audi cars...), but those buttons looked and felt perfect. A little surprised the 'protection' circuit did nothing at 0.5Ohm - it must be for shorts and thermal only. The main PCB is very, very nice for a $60 retail amplifier - like Alpine. Sign of the times. Subcontracting quality Engineering specs and production to China and Korea can produce beauty like this. Sure only a 150W/250W beauty, but all you need is there. I would stuff three or four of these into a car and make a decent budget system. Thanks Mr. Williston/BigDWiz!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Darn. I just realized it is not full range Class D and the low pass crossover is not defeatable. Ok, one or two of these with a 2 or 4 channel for a budget system.
Good man for swapping the fuses out for 40s and running the test again.
40A@14.4 is 576w, 563W rms seems mathematically resonable if you get ~97.7% efficiency, which is highly suspect even for a D-class amp. However from the testing it looks as if the amp hit 43A , never even gets close to 60% efficiency. Makes me wonder if on their bench, they packed it dry ice, fed it 18 volts to get the current down, and ran it up to 10%THD, then let the smoke out before the fuses popped. And the lab techs said "yeah, 563 watts Klaus before ekshplodenguten! Ok good Oskar we write that down thank you!"
The 1501's predecessor, the 1500m, looks to have specs(120w at 4, 200w at 2) which is closer to what a 1501 actually does.
Well the model number says it all .... 150 x 1. Got emmm
Orion amps ruled the 90s period boyzzzz.
ZAPPCO!!!!!!
Orion and Zapco was good shit. Add Precision Power to that mix too.
Rockford fosgate wasnt far behind
Toby Gullo hifonics weren’t garbage back then either. Had some strong amps
Hi fonics ZUESS AND ULYSSES #1 In the 90's. I've had friends pushing 8 15" subwoofers with either one of those amps. Budget amps wouldve been Coustic 460 & 360.
Man that's a joke!!!! My toaster puts out more power then thus thing. Lmao. Great video man, thanks for all ur hard work.
Bad joke too!
Umm. Blaupunkt makes toasters for Euro markets. I'm serious. As another extraneous side note - I used to call Alphasonic amps Alphatoaster.
My ex’s dildo puts out more power than this thing!
@@pgmurray76 lol I actually have an Alphasonic amp. Maybe I should send it in to Big D for a dyno.
@@travisj.1938 oh shoot. Now I feel bad. Nothing wrong with vintage Alpha's!! Is my memory wrong, or did some models have metal TO3s like Linear Power? That was the only burned Alpha I had seen. It was summer and someone kept clipping it into 2OHM mono load. Stupid owners fault.
Thanks for the amp dyno's and letting people know what the amps really do much appreciated 👍
Was about to purchase one today and I'm glad I watch the video first.
If someone thinks they're going to get 1000 watts out of a $60 dollar amp, they're not serious enough about mobile audio to care about ratings in the first place.
$1.00 a watt is what we used to pay.
I mean, for the price point, this and 2 of their $20 subs you tested still give you easily what you pay for in a shoestring budget system that you prob won’t need to upgrade any electric besides maybe your battery and even that is debatable. I was pretty surprised it survived that .5 ohm run tbh. Definitely bad branding/rating/labeling tho
Uber disappointed in this. I didnt have hopes of 1125 but 500 would be nice.
My jvc is 500 watt bought it and by 2 Boston 8s from a friend for $25 but duel has a amp you can find at most walmarts for $50 it pushes just above 500watt
I just received my AMP1501 from Amazon. I have a SKAR audio DVC 12” IX series wired to 2 Ohm. I put it in a custom box tuned at 35hz. My sub is rated for 250watts RMS and 500watts max. I bought this amp for this subwoofer just because of this video. Thanks for the info. Great content.
What size wire did you use and/or recommend? If this thing maxes out at 400, normal use would be half that, right? 10 gauge should be fine, right?
@@AmanOU2beI used 8ga. Just to give it a fighting chance.
First exposure to Blaupunkt was the new system my roommate had installed in his brand new 1974 Dodge van. 😁 Blaupunkt HU with Alpine speakers to fill that cavern of a vehicle. Sounded awesome. I bought a Sanyo Bi-amplified HU 2 watts per channel, rms to the front, and 14 watts/channel rms to the back deck speakers. On end of year sale, that Sanyo was about $250 in 1975. Sounded better than anything I've had since then. That includes the Monsoon system in my VW, with big amp in the trunk. I've questioned specs ever since. Why did that 70s and 80s equipment sound so good?
For 60 bucks.. if its reliable its still a bargain dude. Dishonest advertising but still not bad for the price
You summarized it perfectly 👌
I still feel like you shouldn't buy it. We don't need to support companies who lie about their products.
This is why the consumers has to educate themselves! This amp would make for a decent start system and a simple install with 4 coaxials and a single sub!
Aaron Bigleman the truth is a lot of audio companies do it. It helps sales.
If this were advertised as a 150 watt amp, at $60 it’s a screaming bargain
Send it back for full refund.
I would, but want to hold onto it for “Dick Riculous Hall of Shame” material for future video 👈😜
A full refund and a apology
I've bought 3 of these for 2 of my cars and my wife's car. All are running 4 Ohm into kicker 10 inch subs. I liked it for the price and remote so it's easy to turn the bass down or up without touching the headunit. One is paired with a 90s blaupunkt cassette deck with front and rear pre amps and still kicks out loud bass. They've been well worth the money to me.
YES!! I have really been waiting for this. now the 4 channel for sure!
Blaupunkt used to be expensive and VERY high end. That was back when Bosch owned them. If you get old 80s and 90s blaupunkt, you'd see all speakers and equipment MADE not designated in Germany.
Now it's simply another name. Some company bought them out and builds Chinese crap. Same route as RCA, Emerson, Craig, and the like. Sad.
IKR
that amp is a beast, for 63 bucks!, and couldn't kill it!!!
Rated like 👎
That thing was a trooper! It's ratings were embellished, but a good solid little amplifier for the price. At less the $.30 per watt, it is definitely good value. Especially with the current limit to keep the output inductor out of saturation, and protect its output transistors. Very forgiving to miss matched load impedances, an easy mistake for a novice to make.
Thats why I paid $900 for my 250W x 4 Zapco amp. From how loud it gets even with a 3 ohm load, I have no doubt it's rated at that if not more.
Congratulations on paying $900
I am using it since 2014 and it still works in mid 2021
It was interesting to see that Blaupunkt history page only went to 2010. They were liquidated in 2016. Who knows where these come from, they most likely just bought the rights to the name so they could drum up business off an old outdated recognizable brand name. Classic brick and morter
I remember seeing Polaroid DVD players in the early 2000’s and was like “what? 🤔” That’s when i learned how this happened. I should’ve explained better in the video...
Williston Audio Labs LOL my family had a Polaroid 47” flatscreen 1080p tv for a few years and I always thought it was hilarious that it was a “Polaroid.” It was a decent TV though.
@@wal To be fair, though, Polaroid electronics are pretty good. They don't disappoint the old brand.
I used only blaupunkt for years in the mid 90's to early2000s and it was solid equipment.
I know this is an old video, but I've had one laying around for a while, waiting on my bass amp to return from SUNDOWN, I pulled it out, ran it at 2ohm on a 3000w rms sub and surprisingly had a lil thump!, so I said F it, wired it down to.0.5ohm and blew the 20a fuses, replaced them with 2 40s and man listen hea.....dis lil bih is bumping im in shock😱........
I have this amp and i am impressed with it for the price. I have a pioneer champion now but honestly the blaupunkt worked awesome for the price and stayed nice and cool.
👌😬👍
I have a quick question. I recently bought and installed 2 Orion Cobalt 10" subs and a matching Orion Cobalt monobloc amp. It's just for my work truck, and sounds damned nice.
I liked it so much I bought a similar setup for my daily driver as the stock HU died. I bought a set of Boss 12" subs which look a lot like your test speaker there with a rolled foam surround. (they were out of the Orions in either 10 or 12..grr...)
I WAS able to get another, identical Orion Cobalt amp, and Although it sounds ok in the cabin (trunk mounted bandpass), I have basically no cone control if I phase them punching out (which REALLY makes no sense in a sealed front bandpass) I phase them punching in instead, and it gets much tighter, but I can't push them as hard and had to turn the gain down (not taking advantage of the sealed chamber)
Is it my speakers? (no broken/delaminated spiders or anything, I did take it all apart) Is it my setup? I tried messing with the LPF setting a lot, and it helped some, but I know I can push these way harder...the gain is turned to about 10 oclock on the dial!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. (both vehicles have at least a 105amp alternator, and batteries about 6 months old)
overhyped, horribly under performing, BUT IT HAS A BASS KNOB.
every single amp that has a plug in it for one should have one in the box, regardless of quality level.
no one will change my mind. its like, $2 in parts in almost any case i care to name, regardless of price point. zero justification for some companies to not include them.
I concur.
Yeah and this one has a nice, metal encased bass knob. Not the cheapo plastic one like the Orion’s use
My friend bought the Rockford Fosgate Power 1500.1 BDCP (honestly can’t remember the exact model) and it was like $750 and didn’t come with a bass knob in the box. But my RF Prime 1200.1 came with a nice metal one and it was only $230. So weird.
Haha... @6:35...that is me word-for-word, saying the same thing in my car. I’ll be playing a tape, and there is singing...waiting for the bass.
😂👍
The 2x20A should have been a dead giveaway that it wouldn't hold up lol
You can start a new catchphrase you got Blaupunkt.
😂
awesome video..this company has never been known for quality even in the 90's..the name blaupunkt sounds like someone is puking and sharting at the same time...love the channel big d
The test sub needs a sticker on it that says "do it bump doe?"
I have a old jeep cj7, all stock, with a retro sound in-dash radio that my sons gave me for Christmas. I installed it soldering 12 ga wire to 4 speakers, (2) 5-1/2" dia. front speakers and (2) 6x9 rear speakers. The speakers are mounted in thick abs black peaked boxes. The in-dash radio looks jeep original great, but the sound is dismal, even for an old guy like me. I think I need an amplifier, and looking for info on utube I came across your channel. You have a very informative channel and your presentation was terrific! Good Jo!, Well Done!
Glad you found my vids useful, thanks for the feedback 👌
300 Watts at 2 ohms for $60???? So what if they lie about the power. Can't beat it. 1501 means 150x1 at 4 ohms. Not bad at all for the price. I had one. Decent amp for 60 bucks
I wish people knew this about these amps
About 15 years old, this brand was so good that even Mercedes-Benz was using it in their cars, but now...
I had always thought they were a high end brand at one point. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes and more used their speakers and or headunits in their cars at one point. The Pontiac G8 and GTO came with Blaupunkt stereos that were very good. The G8 system came with two 10” DVC subs in the rear deck and the stock amp actually had a gain knob (unheard of in stock audio.) Oddly though, there was an issue with the blaupunkt subs being wired wrong from the factory and many people rewire them.
Wish their was a consumer product board that would prevent blatant false advertising companies from being able to sell their products without getting prosecuted for fraud.
What if you only get half the milage from your engine oil.. I bet the people saying it's not that bad, wouldn't be saying that if that failed to perform!
Great videos. Keep it up. I've wondered about this a lot. Thank you.
Back in 1994 I had a Rockford Fosgate 100DSM and there is no way it only put out 100 watts
Around 350-400
@@wal That really makes me miss my RF BD1000A1. Power hungry as **** but it just kept asking for more. I should never have sold it when all the shiny new tripath topology amps came out (Clarion I'm looking at you).
@@mikem.9197 Clarion was another fave back in the day!
4-Channel AMP1504 pls
As soon as you popped those ATC 20's I was like "Please god let him put bigger fuses in and lower the impedance!!" ... 5 seconds later my prayers were answered!
Would you recommend a good 4 or 5 channel amp with good output, low cost to run a basic system, about 80watts+ for door speakers and 150watts sub?
I remember my mom had a old blaupunkt head unit in the 90’s t was detachable face and the face plate was super thin it played cd’s but I always thought it was wildly mediocre at best it made noise tho lol
They were always pretty basic and pretty expensive. Very interesting feedback 🧐
Lol X-over frequency said 40Hz - 180KHz that's one hell of a typo
Damn. You can't hear that!
180 kHz is the switching frequency of the amplifier output stage. That high frequency is pulse width modulated, to produce the audio signal, then it's filtered through that smaller toroidal inductor, and a couple of capacitors, so that high frequency isn't passed to the speaker. Most full range class D amplifier switch between 150, and 220 kHz. the audio frequency is limited by the low pass output filter. Usually about 22 kHz. They should have labeled it as the "carrier frequency", or "switching frequency". It's the ONE thing, that's probably accurate.
@@vincentrobinette1507 ok thanks for clearing that up good to know.
Vincent Robinette It depends. Class D amplifiers need to switch their MOSFETs in the order of magnitudes more than what they put out. Example would be a 333KHz for a full-range single-chip IC, but internally it is interpreted as 3Mhz or more. The reason there is so many class D bass amps that can handle oh-so-low resistance values is the fact that they use lots of high current, and that itself increases the switching losses(capacitive and inductive reactance of the transistor).
So in practice, since they output high current with the switching being slow, they aren't good for midrange/fullrange systems due to lack of switching that causes distortion at higher frequencies.
Full-range class D amplifiers switch at the values I put earlier(300Khz or more)to ensure the least harmonics that creeps the spectrum response of the amp!
@@ruikazane5123 Most amps I've tested have been in the 250 kHz range. They usually use a 22 microhenry inductor, paired with .68 microfarads for the output capacitor. As you increase the rail voltage of the amplifier, the ripple current of the inductor and capacitor goes up linearly to the voltage, but the switching transition losses for the transistors goes up quadratically. to reduce those transition losses, the only thing that can be done, is to reduce switching speed, which means larger inductor and capacitor, to keep the ripple current under control. I have designed amplifiers with low pass filters with critical frequencies of about 7 kHz, the frequency response of the amplifier is linear to 20 kHz, or even slightly above. The caveat: you can't get full rail to rail amplitude at higher frequencies. Because the L/C lowpass filter is 2nd order, at 14 kHz, the available output voltage is only 1/4 the rail to rail voltage of the amplifier. That makes the amplifier not the best choice for driving tweeters. There's just no headroom. With a 7 kHz low pass filter, if you pass 20 kHz through it. you only get 12% of your rail voltage!
When listening to full range music, I find that the amplitude of the highest frequencies stays within that, and the music does not sound "muffled". To achieve that, my designs include the output low pass filter in the feedback loop.
Rather than looking at the "frequency response" of an amplifier, it's more relevant to look at the "slew rate". That's a measurement of how fast it can change its output 1 volt. A high power amplifier, with lots of supply voltage, large inductor, large capacitor, and slow switching speed can have the same "slew rate" as a small, high speed switching amplifier, with less supply voltage. smaller inductor, smaller capacitor. It just takes more time, to swing across all that extra voltage.
Big D sir I have been a fan of yours for years. Great channel and video sir and thank you for your channel. I have collected alot of the old school amps
I love a good torture test. I'm amazed it stayed together. Bump it up to 18 volts and see what shakes loose LOL
Ha ha!
thats why i stick with alpine amps, polk speakers.
ive been happy for 20 years, never disapointed.
$60 for 250 watts isn't bad but, I remember the days when Blaupunkt was a reputable company
Yeah that’s the part I don’t like. Rate them honestly, stop misleading the peeps!
In 2011, Blaupunkt as a managed brand name, outsourced all production to China and practically no more " Robert Bosch era " products were being made. Those audio devices made thereafter, didn't hold the same standards. Not surprised at the test results btw, that were amazing with that amp dyno. 👌😯
Kicker and fosgate all made in China now but so far I'm happy with this amp. Got it hooked to a p1 punch @ 2 ohms and doing work I have to say
Donna England you have this amp? If so was it easy to install the wiring and such
I'm glad the dyno held together.. That was a monster big D. So I guess 1%thd is the new normal. I remember when if you had an amp that was1% it was considered a dirty amp. But I'm old school...lol
I love my art series amps.
👈😬👍
You got "punkt"
supa dupa LMAO
And that Blau’s 😃
@@wal what woofer is that used in the test?
U need a million likes on that reply..big facts
Tin foil fuses, lol I remember them days back when I was 15, 16..
Even made them out of some cigarette packs.Brings back memories.
Love this Channel. Love to see an old PPi amp tested. miss mine.
AMPLIFIER ART? 1994 Precision Power Art Series A404 and A600 Amps [4K] czcams.com/video/XE2uuY-zKKE/video.html
I don't know if I'm impressed or disappointed it didn't detonate at 0.5 ohm. Hope you had the windows and garage doors open just in case!
why must they make a mockery of the brands i trusted back in the day??????!!!!!!!pisses me off!!!!!!!!
I know man, trust me 👎
Turn over...simple.
Test a blaupunkt velocity series amp 👍
You know something you don't see is people modding or beefing up amplifiers.just seems like there's a hobby there.dont really know if it's possible but would be neat to see some little amp with crazy azz power coming out of it.as always Big D love your videos and yes my son and I are still enjoying the Orion 8000d you kindly sent us.blowed some kicker12s now it's pushing 2 Skar vd-12 like a mugg. Lol
I'm liking the looks of the new audiocontrol amps and the prices are half what they would have been 20yrs ago in the Mtx thunder ⚡ age
If you are interested in this amp, see more about it here:
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Best Budget Amp currently Polk PAD2000.2: goo.gl/pJ3n5Q or amzn.to/2HD3Qxi
Don't forget the $25 12" subs! is.gd/blau12subwoofer
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Amazing Acrylic Subwoofer Box!
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The Lord of Bass: www.thelordofbass.com (use coupon code "BIGD10" for 10% off!)
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The moment I saw that amp I laughed. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Half ohm at least it's solid
Can you test the Phoenix gold ti3 1300.1 at 0.75ohm please
Most of the time the so-called ratings are absolutely meaningless. So how does it sound? 100 watts per channel actual output sounds like a decent dead for $60 if it actually sounds good.
your initial explanation about the fuses said everything. ever since the FCC allowed an audio amp max output to be rated at 10% THD, manufacturers have been getting away with MURDER. my "safe rule of thumb" is expect 1/3 what they claim (at best and max), so a "TWO HUNNA WATTZ" stereo amp, means 33w per channel at 4 ohm. to me not that big a deal because I already expect it, and use the least expensive most efficient drivers I can get my hands on so stuff is LOUD.
might be a good idea to explain my "safe rule of thumb" to others so they aren't disappointed trying to drive 500w speakers with 30w of power, they'll save a bundle and be much happier overall. this of course doesn't apply to REAL high end car audio gear that can blow out your windows, that's an entirely different level :)
Get a $20 sub and a 60 dollar amp for some budget bump. Reminds me of the boss riot.
sterr1 riot was my first amp due to budget at the time. Wasnt as bad as i always thought it’d be for a single 12 but my current skar amp kicks its ass all day
I am happy with mine. Especially for the price. Currently, this amp paired with a 10" kicker compR. I will be getting the 10" kicker compQ soon!
Buddy, do yourself a favor and move away from kicker. Move up to something like Alpine or Rockford Fosgate. For the price they are a great product.
That’s a shame, I’m old enough to remember when Blaupunkt was considered a top shelf brand…
I don't care what anyone says, blaupunkt has never been good
Gotta say the Blaupunkt followers were the people who wanted to think they were as amazing as the BMW's and Mercedes they were installed in.
I have to disagree in the 80’s it was good quality equipment, they where one of the first to bring out a real 40W amp with a swichmode boost converter in it so you could get 40W in 4 ohm.
You should have heard our old '60s home stereo/record player, & my '70s portable. That would absolutely make you delete your uninformed comment.
From a lifetime guitarist\music lover, with many audiophile friends over the years.
Some people might think they are good but if you actually heard equipment that IS good then you would know. Just my opinion. You get what you pay for in car audio
Blaupunkt has never been good in car audio!
Yr obviously a noob.
It reminds me when during the '90s manufacturers were using the PMPO power rating as a bait... In any case this amplifier is a scam from every angle you watch it: it's a class D with an efficiency more in line with a class AB...
I love coming across these videos I haven't seen and I've seen quite a few ads on OfferUp lately where people are running these crazy custom sub setups with a Blaupunkt or Planet Audio amp and they're selling the entire setup to go with something better. I've seen some high end subs that these water heads are trying to power with something like this amp. I can only hope that a reputable shop isn't pushing these out the door to unsuspecting victims....hahahaha ANYWAYS, Love the channel, love the vids and love the honest reviews you do brother!!!! If i can get my old Autotek 600.s fixed correctly, I may contact you to see about doing a test on it...It's a super cool flush mount amp and I actually used it in a few DB drag competitions back in the day.
Dino test RockVille DB55
I don't understand how a old established company like Blaupunkt would market something so fraudulently. As you say, one like at the fuse ratings tells you over a 1000w is not feasible as a continuous rating, although they don't say continuous, only rms. Did you approach Blaupunkt to justify their spec?
For the same amount or less (currently $34.99 Walmart.com) coin that little Dual XPR82D that Ryan tested a year ago seems like a much better deal per dollar in the same basic footprint..
Yeah the Dual is amazing, especially for $35!
I just bought this amp but i am only using a pair of MtX 12 terminators. The speakers were rated 1200 like the amp basically and i knew they would probably be lies but at least the two would be about the same power even if its a lie lol it was all super cheap it does come with a well made remote.
I haven't seen a Rockford Fosgate Punch 45 or a Punch 75 in DECADES!!! It was SO COOL to see them in the intro!!!
Blaupunkt was a known brand ( esp Head units ) in New Zealand. Sad how many great brands of the 90s have disappeared or not as popular as they once were
What's dynamic power at 1/2 ohm? 796 watts!!! Durable for 60 bucks
This is great! Thank you for the video. I'm building an all blaupunkt system in a blue car,themed for color. I did the fuse math,and will get me the numbers I need. Super budget,and all warranted. I think its gonna be a good setup. 3 6k,fused at 120A,so 1200w,a 1k,fused at 60A,so 600w their processors eq,6 of the 12s,tes tr ed here,and the all digi HU that was tested here also. Shuld be fun.
😬👍
Output does not surprise me from Blaupunkt current line. I'm a long time fan of Blaupunkt and have plenty of Velocity series amp I wish you could test. Would love to see how amps from 2008 compare. Maybe submit a VA2200 for you? :)
You had my spirits up there for a moment. Then the reality sank in.
You should make a list of all the amps that make rated power
Blaupunkt must have been bought out by BOSS OR Rockville. Lol. Keep em coming D. Bought my Audiopipe amps because of your videos. Very happy so far
They should have just been honest with the advertisement. It seem to be a solid little 300 watt amp, for the price. They should have just rolled with that.
We keep saying this, but these companies continue misleading people!!
I used to run Blaupunkt back in the 90's I had a pair of 12" Blau pro comps in a Q Logic bandpass. I just recently was able to find a couple and plan to rebuild one of my first ever systems just for the memories. :)
By today's standard this is obviously a awful amp. But, just imagine if you could have bought a 300-400 watt amp for $64 back in 1990. We would have all thought that was the deal of a lifetime back then. Goes to show how much times have changed and how cheap power has become.
Can't imagine they will sell very many of these, especially after word gets out about how little power they make.
Well, you have to admit: The price is right. At $.50 per watt, it's a pretty good deal. Just look at the fuse amperage rating, multiply it by 12 (volts), a class "D" amplifier is likely to produce about 60 to 70% of that.
Too bad they went so downhill. Ever think of testing a Helix G ONE? Curious if they can do rated.
Eevblog took all of BidDWiz's Blaupunkt reviews to heart and saw how many subsidiaries ("Brand Partners") Blaupunkt now has. Each country gets its own set of speakers and amplifiers. It seems the US gets the biggest subwoofers but the smallest amps (with the most bloated specs). Spain gets real amplifiers with triple 40A fuses and 1200x1 ratings. Totally possible (probably 900-1000W). USA only gets 3 amplifiers - this one, a 2 channel, and 4 channel. We do have the better head units - if you can find them. All is run directly and indirectly by a Chinese partner via New York city.
Great info 👌
This brand was super popular in the early to mid 90’s. I had an almost full Blaupunkt system that consisted of removable face plate head unit with tape deck, 2 pairs of tweeters for front and back pillars, 3 way 6.5” speakers for the front doors and if I remember correctly the 6x9s I had in the back window of my car were only 2 way and that’s why I added the second pair of tweeters. The speakers were pushed by a Rockford Fosgate 4 way amp but unfortunately I can’t remember what the wattage for all that was. I’ve gotta day that they sounded amazing. I listen to everything from Bob Marley, Grateful Dead and Pink Floyd to Hank Williams, Merle Hagard and Willie Nelson to any hip hop/rap that’s worth listening to which back then there was lots of great rap. That system paired with the two 15” Kicked Competition subs and a custom potted box that I built made for some great listening.
Thanks because it was a toss up between this and the Leige 500. Now I'm definitely getting the Leige.
After thinking about how far the dyno' RMS was from both the manufacturer stated RMS and the RMS based on the "fuse*14.4", I wondered if this unit might be defective. Have you ever considered testing another unit when you find a product dyno'd so far off from these figures ( manufacture stated, fuse formula)?