Thak you Sir for sharing your excelent video and language... God bles you and your familie and friends at UUEE!!... best regards fron Santiago de Chile, SouthAmerica!!
Your OM642 Sprinter videos are what I have used to try and fix my UK Spec Mercedes Sprinter. I bought it from my employer with a limp mode issue. I apparently have a new Catalytic Converter and DPF. So I used your videos to clean the EGR valve, replace the intake seals for the turbo and renewed the PCV valve. plus the pressure side of the turbo, the Green O ring and both seals on the resonator. The leak causing the limp mode was the large black resonator seal popped open on the top side. This was down to missing bolts on the alloy pipe stays. I checked the resonator and the resonator is still intact, so I only needed new seals. Issue fixed, pulled like a train, first time to 70mph and still good. Kicked down at 70 and the new seal popped on the top side again! All held solid in the right place. Other than checking for missing bolts on the downward facing pipe leading to the intercooler, any idea or what the problem could be? Too much pressure?
If the fat side of the resonator keeps popping out of the steal elephant hose, one or both are not being secured enough. That fat o ring almost snaps into the pipe, and same on the down side. Make sure the back bolt is on the resonator (by master cylinder). Make all bolts are tightened.
@@majorminor6948 Hi there. Yes, I've rest everything a number of times. All bolts are present, new seals bought for the whole induction side of things. I've dome this about 10 times now, so it seems I have a blockage further along? Maybe I'll have to remove the intercooler and flush it through?
@@vinceandwinnie436 have you watched the live data on the boost while driving? The pressure of the turbo isn’t that insane and the 4 screws/bolts on the resonator plus the 1 on the elephant hose hold up under usual circumstances, especially if all is sat. Knowing if you’re getting constant over boost or not, and what the pressure readings are can give you some clue of what might be going on. But if you had a plugged anything in the charge system, you would have way crazier symptoms than just the resonator coming apart.
@@majorminor6948 I may reseat the whole set up again and go for a drive. I have an ICarSoft diagnostics reader that reads live data, I'll just have to work out how to view or record the turbo booster whilst on the test drive?
@@vinceandwinnie436 I have the icarsoft too. Go into diagnostics, pick your model, go into the engine module, go all the way down passed check and erase codes to view data, go into check boost pressure, click all of the shit to check (atmospheric, boost, intake, actuation, back pressure, differential). Watch those numbers cold and while driving.
Thanks for the video, after watching this I found I have the same issue. I refitted the metal ring not with glue. I crimped the insert end to expand it just a little in about 5 spots around it, them I pressed it back in. I'm pretty sure that it was originally a press fitting, it's snug and tight. Should be a more permanent solution for a common problem.
I had this same problem in my Sprinter. The fork was misplaced and the joint was leaking air and spraying oil. Easy fix but not very clever construction. Now I know to check this place every time I open the hood (as well as some other places)
Just put mine back after replacing the injectors. The steel wasnt atached as well. Good to know what to look for after it runs again. It was a pain in the ass to get it in place again. Fingers crossed!
Would a turbo resonator delete (straight pipe) solve any future issues from happening? Obviously it wouldn't pass emissions but to save time with having to deal with a resonator breaking.
Hi there. Your videos have got me out of s lot of trouble. But I have a problem with my 2011 OM642. The turbo exit pipe, where it meets the resonator is separating? All seals replaced, all reseated and clamped down, but it still causes a boost leak as it separates by moving upwards? Is there another issue, blocked intercooler maybe? only has 62k miles.
I have a question if you can help me. My mercedes b class 2007 automatic transmission, while i am driving sometimes stop at around 18 km/h to 23 km/h and do not change the gear. I press the gass and she only increase dhe rpm and the speed with 1 to 5 km/h but not more. Another time she started changing the gear at around 2500 rpm but i was pressing the gas normaly. I turn off the car and then turn on immediately and she start working properly. What do you think is the problem ?
It sound’s like a the plastic transmission valve body needs to be replaced because the speed sensor is damaged. Check the wire leading to you TCM but most likely it’s fine. Good luck.
this video has a perfect cadence and tempo, easy to follow and comprehend THANK YOU!
Your videos are so very informative. You do a great job of explaining everything slowly as well as providing great visuals with the video!!
Thank you for the detailed video. Enjoyed it.
Looking forward to new videos with ever increasing frequency 😀. Have been through much of this with the 2.7 crd grand cherokee
Thank you so much - superbly explained !
You are all video very helpful. Thank you.
I have a 2008 Mercedes-Benz sprinter your video wonderful and help you r the great man
Thak you Sir for sharing your excelent video and language... God bles you and your familie and friends at UUEE!!... best regards fron Santiago de Chile, SouthAmerica!!
Your OM642 Sprinter videos are what I have used to try and fix my UK Spec Mercedes Sprinter. I bought it from my employer with a limp mode issue.
I apparently have a new Catalytic Converter and DPF.
So I used your videos to clean the EGR valve, replace the intake seals for the turbo and renewed the PCV valve. plus the pressure side of the turbo, the Green O ring and both seals on the resonator. The leak causing the limp mode was the large black resonator seal popped open on the top side. This was down to missing bolts on the alloy pipe stays. I checked the resonator and the resonator is still intact, so I only needed new seals. Issue fixed, pulled like a train, first time to 70mph and still good. Kicked down at 70 and the new seal popped on the top side again! All held solid in the right place. Other than checking for missing bolts on the downward facing pipe leading to the intercooler, any idea or what the problem could be? Too much pressure?
If the fat side of the resonator keeps popping out of the steal elephant hose, one or both are not being secured enough. That fat o ring almost snaps into the pipe, and same on the down side. Make sure the back bolt is on the resonator (by master cylinder). Make all bolts are tightened.
@@majorminor6948 Hi there. Yes, I've rest everything a number of times. All bolts are present, new seals bought for the whole induction side of things. I've dome this about 10 times now, so it seems I have a blockage further along? Maybe I'll have to remove the intercooler and flush it through?
@@vinceandwinnie436 have you watched the live data on the boost while driving? The pressure of the turbo isn’t that insane and the 4 screws/bolts on the resonator plus the 1 on the elephant hose hold up under usual circumstances, especially if all is sat. Knowing if you’re getting constant over boost or not, and what the pressure readings are can give you some clue of what might be going on. But if you had a plugged anything in the charge system, you would have way crazier symptoms than just the resonator coming apart.
@@majorminor6948 I may reseat the whole set up again and go for a drive. I have an ICarSoft diagnostics reader that reads live data, I'll just have to work out how to view or record the turbo booster whilst on the test drive?
@@vinceandwinnie436 I have the icarsoft too. Go into diagnostics, pick your model, go into the engine module, go all the way down passed check and erase codes to view data, go into check boost pressure, click all of the shit to check (atmospheric, boost, intake, actuation, back pressure, differential). Watch those numbers cold and while driving.
Thanks for the video, after watching this I found I have the same issue. I refitted the metal ring not with glue. I crimped the insert end to expand it just a little in about 5 spots around it, them I pressed it back in. I'm pretty sure that it was originally a press fitting, it's snug and tight. Should be a more permanent solution for a common problem.
Very explain…. Good information… thank you
I had this same problem in my Sprinter. The fork was misplaced and the joint was leaking air and spraying oil. Easy fix but not very clever construction. Now I know to check this place every time I open the hood (as well as some other places)
Just put mine back after replacing the injectors. The steel wasnt atached as well. Good to know what to look for after it runs again. It was a pain in the ass to get it in place again. Fingers crossed!
Thank you!
My 2009 cab and chassis is a real heartbreaker.
there has got to be a delete part for this resonator. it should be one piece from the turbo to the pipe after the resonator.
Would a turbo resonator delete (straight pipe) solve any future issues from happening? Obviously it wouldn't pass emissions but to save time with having to deal with a resonator breaking.
Did your epoxy fix work? Did you get the new part and was the metal ring glued into place on the new part?
Thanks for sharing. But the failure was not due to poor previous maintenance? Machine is getting old. Going to need bits and pieces replaced.
What is the part number for that resonator
the Engine is a OM642 with how much horsepower and what exatly type om OM642.. is it already the "LS" new variant?
Hi there. Your videos have got me out of s lot of trouble. But I have a problem with my 2011 OM642. The turbo exit pipe, where it meets the resonator is separating? All seals replaced, all reseated and clamped down, but it still causes a boost leak as it separates by moving upwards? Is there another issue, blocked intercooler maybe? only has 62k miles.
Resonator metal pipe is not attached to engine mount sliding down under boost
I have a question if you can help me. My mercedes b class 2007 automatic transmission, while i am driving sometimes stop at around 18 km/h to 23 km/h and do not change the gear. I press the gass and she only increase dhe rpm and the speed with 1 to 5 km/h but not more. Another time she started changing the gear at around 2500 rpm but i was pressing the gas normaly. I turn off the car and then turn on immediately and she start working properly. What do you think is the problem ?
👆🏻ya, what he said. TCM plug at least, conductor plate possible. Start with fluid levels and code clearing, then check plug and conductor plate.
It sound’s like a the plastic transmission valve body needs to be replaced because the speed sensor is damaged. Check the wire leading to you TCM but most likely it’s fine. Good luck.
run it at 1.5x speed then u will feel normal. Thanks for the video thou.
need to create a metal replacement. this crap leaks boost even when new. 22psi vs plastic is no match
No it doesn’t , you assembled it wrong that’s all
@@the_first_resort940 Did you do a video showing how to do it correctly? Please provide link.