Jeep CJ Rear Wire Harness
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2021
- This is the first of a 3 part series focusing in on the 3 main wire harnesses for CJ5/7/8 from 76-86. First is the rear wire harness and I show you what wires connect to what component and the differences between the 76-81 and the 82-86 wire harnesses.
If anything in here is incorrect, please let me know. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I'm starting to do a complete wire job on a 77 J10 & I have to agree..... you are a cool guy! Appreciate the insight
My 1908 CJ has a RED wire coming down from the rear corner and it's the Break light, the green one operates the turn signals. In the front the turn signal wires are green and white and so are the side markers. except for rear side markers which are blue and black. All looks to be the way it came.
Reach out to me @ dellis6914@gmail.com and I can give you a wiring diagram that shows everything. And, if it works, then I wouldn't mess with whatever wire colors you have :)
Thank you cool guy!
My 1975 cj5 needs a lot of attention,your details help me,thanks again!
Hopefully some of this stuff helps. 75 was a transition year. As well as 76 and 77.
Just what I was looking for to clear up some confusion. I am in the process of wiring up LED tail lights on a 1980 CJ5. I don’t seem to be getting power to the tail lights. I checked voltage at the white wire and I have a voltage drop. Had some 2 wire trailer brake lights wired up and they worked fine. But not LEDS. I’m just baffled by this. And this is after installing the LED compatible flasher realy.
So, tell me more. Did the tail lights work before the trailer light install?
Robert Smith , Cool Guy
I’m no pro at electrical but it is important to know were the tail lights working satisfactory prior to the LED install . If not , all harness disconnects need to be checked for corrosion from the harness plug under the dash and every point where a disconnect is in the harness to the light sockets . If they were working , it would seem the LED is demanding higher wattage or amperage than the 12 volt light bulbs draw. This may be a consideration ? The manufacturer of the LED lights ought to have some directions regarding demands and requirements pertains to LED installation . I’ve never done LED but I’m to understand there is a difference in requirement and not sure if it’s just the addition of the relay spoken of . A relay generally sends 12 volts through the power circuit terminals 30 and 87 so I’m not understanding whether it’s a continuity/ connectivity problem or power demand ? I’m sure this is why Cool Guy is asking .
Re - read the post and the relay spoken of was the flasher relay , not an ISO relay . Disregard info of terminals 30 and 87 , unless an ISO 4 or 5 terminal relay was installed as per installation instructions . Power demand ( amperage or wattage ) may be the key to this problem ?
Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to film all this, from axles up, it’s been very helpful in my rebuild.. BTW Your CZcams home page would think you’ve been to Utah, similar pic found on one of our license plates..happy trails..
I have. I took that photo :) glad to know I helped at least a little.
Thanks for this explanation! My '86's fuel gauge hasn't worked in 2 years and I've been hesitant to remove the tank (and skid plate) just to fix the gauge. Add 150 to present odometer via blue tape and sharper has been the cheap fix! I'll now try to trace the ground to see if that's the culprit. Keep up the great work!
"sharpie"
The grounds and electrical were definately major gremlins for the AMC CJs. I hope for your success.
@@coolguy_CJ7 Thank you. Yeah, nearly every intermittent brake light and turn signal problem can be traced to corroded/weak ground connections.
I will be following your electrical project.
Great video, just bought my 81 CJ7 and trying to figure out the wiring
A couple of other videos to watch that will help with other electrical things.
czcams.com/video/K53mNVNtb3A/video.html
czcams.com/video/S4cuVaqxvqE/video.html
czcams.com/video/XUSAwGSaWc4/video.html
czcams.com/video/WLyhmJuhwjo/video.html
czcams.com/video/09iE3mj3R_4/video.html
Thank You for the awesome in depth posts! I am looking for the dash wiring post and unable to locate it. Do you make/post one on this topic. Thank You again!
I have not yet. There are a few out there already but they are for a new painless harness. I’m sorry I haven’t got to it yet.
I can send you a wiring diagram if that helps.
This is good stuff. Can't wait to see the rest of the series.
Trying to crank this stuff out while restoring the CJ. Almost a fulltime job. :)
Looking forward for next one
Hey Jeep Guy! trying to hook up a 4 pole wire hit to pull trailer to my CJ7. I know you pointed out the brake light left and right side but you did not point out turn signals when you were going through the wiring harness. Is there a trick to connecting a standard 4 pole hard wire kit?
Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier. That is something that I don't have any information on or to offer. I'll look around and see if there is any information about it for the Wagoneers and J Trucks.
It seems that consistency was , for the most part there as far as color code , but it seems changes were made , I see . On my 1980 CJ5 , the sending unit wire started from the gauge as pink through the front harness connector and changed to red through the body harness and along the outer body . It then changed to the white wire to the sending unit post . As you’ve pointed out , the ground is suspect when fuel gauges don’t work . Also , check the wiring that leaves the inner body to the outer body and any harness disconnects for corrosion . Clean as necessary and check for continuity . Hoping the connector on the sending unit is free of corrosion since the tank is in place and not accessible but the ground and harness disconnects are . This may save someone from replacing the fuel gauge if it is not faulty . We must be sure there is continuity and connectivity front to rear in order to properly diagnose . The same goes for the tail lights and side markers . This is all trusting that the original wiring has not been hacked as we so often see . Please folks , if we must do a repair , try and stay with proper gauge and color code where possible . This is helpful since tagging wires with label maker tags isn’t practical since the labels don’t survive . Emergency fixes are one thing but we should pride our work on the Jeep’s we pride .
It is interesting to see the differences between my 84 CJ7 and this 79. A lot are subtle, but impactful if you are aware of them.
Side markers om rear were from 76 to 79 or 80. 1980 had old style doors so older non hallow domelightless hardtop is possible but i cant comfirm. What i can confirm is my 1981 high miles but bought with 800 miles back in 91 by my grandpa had a domelight, paddle type doors, no rear side markers had the taillights with builting side marker, only 1 got smashed while i was driving and the tire racl worked its way loose, swung and slapped the jeep and i didmt have a bump stop on cause it got some 1/8 bodyarmor