Understanding Beachbreaks
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- čas přidán 17. 06. 2024
- Surfing a beach break presents a few challenges that don't tend to be such an issue at rocky/reef breaks.
Today we look at how to surf beach breaks that are "shifty" and come up with a solid plan, or at least do our best to get some luck on our side.
Web:
thesurfrat.com
On de book:
/ the.surf.rat
Surf images from Aotearoa New Zealand and around the world:
/ the.surf.rat - Sport
In the spirit of exploration and adventure, I won't be naming spots on this channel. Thanks for understanding
I'll give you 5k if you name that spot.
The Surf Rat thx so much for this; I feel paying attention to what others are doing and where they’re surfing has held me back. Good advice.
You are based in New Zealand, yes?
Stay off my wave
are there any really good east coast beaches by auckland, because I cant find a really consistent spot.
Nice video - wish I could go to that beautiful break. You forgot to mention the "sucker" wave... the first wave of the set that makes you think you've got it but all it does is drag you closer to shore and get caught in the break for the rest of the set!
Hahah damn you're so right! I fall for it every freaking time
He sort of mentioned it when he takes about there being a set of waves behind the first one
I'm a damn pro at chasing that wave.
How the hell are you the only one out?!!
have to know the spots ;)
@@noahwright9454 I Have A perfect spot
@@noahwright9454 put people go there :'(
Came to the comment section to find the answer!
He's the only one because there is a better spot just down the road.
You are like the bob ross of surfing. Love your vibe and keep making these videos pls!!
This guy’s energy is unmatched
Your videos are pure gold Tom! I'm recommending them to all my friends.
Awesome videos mate! Your narration and videography is both informative and entertaining... keep em coming!!
You're 100% one of my favourite channels mate. Keep it up!!
Man I really like the way you put together these videos, you make the info very relatable and it sticks well in my head for some reason. Cheers for that
Just discovered your channel and I'm smashing through your videos 👍🏻 Useful tips covering a broad range of topics, good surf shots, music & humour. Keep it up mate.
Don't stop making vids man, i just learnt how to surf last year and have been going as much as i can and I can't wait to use the observations you gave us. Thanks man
This guy, I mean... Absolutely fantastic. Watched all of his videos multiple times awith absolute joy. He points out all the great things about surfing and life in general. To bad I live way to far from any ocean for me to bring this knowledge into practice. Great fun to watch!
This is so good. It took me SO much time and frustration to start to catch on to things you've discussed here.
Amazing video, especially the advice on how you can create your own luck by staying in the positive... inspiring!! thank you!
Beautiful scenery and great content! Thanks for the info!
A really awesome video! You described beach breaks perfectly. That cat and mouse game is definitely how it feels every time on those beach breaks.
Nice one, some commenters are critical of your not including encyclopedic detail but I presume as a newer presenter you're leaving room to bring further detail in future episodes, beach breaks volume ii &c.. The relaxed delivery and starting with broad brush strokes is refreshing, and your local breaks are a gorgeous example of what you're describing. Thanks for taking the time!
Your vids helped me a lot years ago when I was getting back into it, happy I found these again to send to a friend who is learning. Subscribed. Thanks brü!!!
Nice nice nice! Love your work - thanks for the great video
I am loving your videos, very helpful and clear information that is highly relevant.
thanks!
This is now one of my favorite videos
Amazing video, as always!
Thanks for making this video brotha. Refreshing take on the mental game of surfing. Great work!. Keep it coming. - L
Great videos man, thank you. Reading the waves is the hardest part for me. Awesome spot though.
Great video and info ....watching as a painter to learn more of the anatomy of waves. .
There's always more to learn....if your a beginner painter....study what interests you and keep at it. ..
Remember it's a never ending learning curve...the late painter of the sea E. John Robinson would be so fascinated today to be able to film waves as such....
Thanks for sharing your knowledge....be safe out there everyone...
I love your content, I had to subscribe.
My local break is a beach break, and sometimes it’s a little frustrating to surf it. Every 30 minuets the wave shapes change dramatically.
You’re videos are amazing mate!
As a surfer in Holland (which has only beach breaks) I definitely recognize the part where you have to be constantly 'hunting' to position yourself correctly for a breaking peak. Nice vid!
Thank you for this content, man! I would really appreciate to surf with someone who does this kind of analysis of the waves, since I do it too, and I dont have anyone to talk about it lol... Most of my surfer friends are completely ignorant (and dont want to know about it either) about these kind of aspects of the nature of the waves, seafloor, etc
He’s right, every time I go do my own thing at a beach break I always get mad waves, rather than following where everyone else is
Definitely very helpful for some! Great video 🤙
Nice to see some surf channels with a clean suitable format. Big up! Wish we had tubes like that at my beachy :
Hahah this great! Crack up and well made, looking forward to more!
The waves are so beautiful...
Loving these videos
Great vid! Good recommendations. Keep the Stoke!
Hey cuzzie watched your vids and went from a 41 yr old 120 kilo hori to a 98kilo intermediate long boarder in under a year thanks for everything
Great perspective for identifying lumps on the horizon. Although I'm finally learning it, I've always tried to get one of the many youtube teachers to cover the subject of aggressive hunting and positioning. More specifically, anticipating where to get to, the technique of paddling to the outside to meet an oncoming set, then the different options for turning around to drop in: tail pivot, sweep strokes, etc. It seems that many of the guides on the interweb cover the basics, then jump to advanced manoeuvres. Some of these subtle skills never get covered....and you seem like the guy.
He sure picked the right day to film this. Conditions look absolutely perfect.
I'm a beachy from Newport california. Hunting down waves, so many good times and throwing barrels. Good video, fuuuggghhkk.
Best videos! Hello from Cali!
Really cool vid and nice shots !
Beautiful!
Beside the actual surfing parts which are great, I like the whole paddling out scenes, very nice views. Keep going !
Dude those waves are very nice 👍
scene starting on 4:20 is lovely, suscribed
Damn... That beach break looks nice 🤤😛😍. Cali letting me down. Haven't seen surf like that for a long time.
This was really helpful
Perhaps the word could be "mimiking" instead of "coping". In that way One is not fixt with the image or method but with the PRINCIPLES behind the image i ambtrying to get "inspiration" from. That way i can continue to be open to observe other and what they do, as a pattern, like in a beach break.
I absolutely agree with the suggestion to find our own experienes and look forbthe waves i feel comfortable in according to my skill level and then observe where in the beach these take place.
Yesterday while most everybody was wating for ages just to get passed by or wipe out on the few waves that were a little bigger, thanks in part to this video, i looked and picked a swell and remained at that point. Oh man! I lost count of how many i cut with very little paddling and learned a ton! Whule others took one i took 5, smaller ones, shorter ones, quicker breaking, BUT what practice for pop ups, quick take offs, knowing the waves and its force, knowing how the vary on a set, recognize powerful steep one or less steep one and in which do i feel comfortable to the gradually step up that level.
Well thanks mate! Keep the videos coming.
thankyou.what a helpful video
Awesome video! Loving the content and style-I'm like aah I get it now...haha :) Thank you!
Cheers brother👍🏼 farout these were the good ol days eh? Pre covid I’m talkin bout😢
Helpful vid, thanks
Great video.thx dude.
Awesome videos all the time, you really go into detail but still make it easy to understand. Oh and by the way where was that beach break those waves looked absolutely firing. Could you do some videos on:
1. How to realise when youve caught the wave ( so you dont get up too late )
2. How to gain confidence in surfing bigger waves.
These are my 2 main hurdles so far, i get up too early pretty frequently, and im having trouble surfing bigger waves. Thanks
That would be really nice! I can give you some tips...
1. It depends a lot of the wave itself and how you position yourself, but i would say that usually when you get up and you realise that u have space to ride the wave without it crashing on you, you are good to go, and u already caught it =D.
2. this was something that I really struggled with... I think it is something that comes with experience, basically you have to keep trying and this kind of knowledge would come to you naturally. My tip for you is that you should surf in whichever conditions you find, I mean, do not be so picky about the conditions (like i did for a long time,for example, only going to surf when there was a good forecast, and despising the small-medium size days) and you will know how the wave behave in different conditions and swells.
These tips are kind shallow in m opinion... Hope that the surfRat can make a video about these topícs
Thanks so much for the tips dude, i will definitely put them into practice and hopefully overcome these challenges. =D
@cailin - one tip that i give my friends that seems to help them is that when you are paddling into a wave, you often want to already be looking down the line in the direction you go. Try to make looking (both!) left and right on a wave a habit before you drop in. You will notice that you will be traveling at the same speed as the wave (the line is not moving faster towards the beach than you) or faster than the wave when you have caught it. The moment you realize the wave is not overtaking you, you should pop up. Eventually, this should become faster and more automatic as you simply feel for the moment rather than looking for visual clues.
Hey Cailin, cheers for the feedback. I'll do a video on the takeoff no doubt, and confidence bigger waves also, but for that I would like to find some big waves first, which could be a while...Keep it up bro thanks for the request!
Thanks heaps for the tips Angus, ill certainly be trying that in my next surf, that is a mistake which i often make (not looking down the line) but i never really realised it until now.
Thank you so much!
Damn you had that beautiful wave all to yourself! Thanks for encouraging beginners to stop following others too lol. I hate when people shadow me at the spots i regularly surf
Awesome vid bro
excellent content
Thanks. Helpful.
Paul Simon album in the bg?
One artist appreciating another.
The most perfect beach break
Much appreciated 🙂
Nice looking long period swell, might be a different game in short period swell. (like the crap we get, lol)
I grew up surfing slop and know it well, but found it has made me hungrier and more willing to surf mediocre waves than people who are from places with frequent good waves. Maybe view the video at 2x speed to shorten the period?
Awesomeness
best video on utube
Nailed it!
I miss surfing so mich 😔 ( long story) anyway I’m glad I got to know that “ only a surfer knows the feeling “ saying 🙂👍
Great video and very helpful. What’s the music?!
Awe bru really dig the content. Would really smaak to watch a video explaining dynamics of a board; rocker, rail, tail and volume..if you have a flat week and keen of course. Peace.
Coming bru! Cheers for the request!
Ay Damian Bell you from South Africa?
ahoy
Raegan Kramm bru I thought the same thing
I am indeed lads.
I WANNA SURF ;-)
sick vids
Last couple of surf sessions, i’ve been in the wrong place at the right time. Caught on the inside when i think i’m sitting on the sweet spot
Gosh, I wish florida waves were this perfect!
you can still find the diamond in the rough
Some West Coast magic
NJ gets some nasty beachbreak surf.
Hi, where is that spot?? Uncrowded with beautiful waves! Thx
do you have one for making the most of a crappy beach break?
My home break here in Long Beach/OC area is like this. I always struggled to set my self up for a good position without getting in anyones way. Its kinda mess out here though, not gonna lie. Huntington Beach in paticular is always jammed up.
Where are u surfing all I surf is hb and Newport 👎
@@thethatthisguy1110 mostly next to the pier or at seal beach when it's good
I can only imagine what its like in these areas. Good luck out there.
Where is this awesome spot??
Great video. May I humbly point out that: you were lucky to be alone, enabling you to scout left and right; some points made here are ruled out by a line up, and etiquette with others. Cheers from BC Canada
Cheers man, I agree mostly, although I'll tend to position myself well first, and worry about etiquette and the pecking order after I'm well positioned. dealing with crowds is another beast altogether. Appreciate your thoughts mayne.
The Surf Rat I wholly trust you, I’m just an old cold water barney;-)
With the sand bottom constantly changing, so are the waves. Way more diverse than reef break's but tend to be smaller. See ya'll in the lineup.
Weird question, but what are those record storage boxes in the back there? I need to buy more for my collection and I'm looking for some good boxes.
Sorry bud those are not mine
What is a grogan?
Great video! A small correction: you say that beach breaks are breaks with sand bottoms, but you are ignoring sand points. Most people wouldn't call those beachbreaks since the common definition is that the waves are breaking on sand bars and not due to the consistent wave angle/geometry/bathymetry provided by a point, whether that's sand, rock or reef.
Thanks Nug. You are right. I try and keep things simple and this means some important stuff gets missed. Cheers for picking up on it.
what brand of sweater is that?
Where is that spot?
certain beaches in nz have phanomanaly better banks at certain times of the year it takes patience to learn
this is true!
Anyone stuck at home in isolation wishing to be out there surfing?
Im a beginner surfer, used a 9ft longboard and I found that whenever I would paddle for a wave, my nose would dip in to the water and I start to nosedive as I’m trying to catch the wave. Any tips on avoiding that?
Hey Beiko, I'm going to do a vid on the takeoff on unbroken waves, and do my best to explain what I think happens to a lot of surfers at this level. You need to improve your positioning and catch the wave before it gets steep. A large board is essential for this in the beginning. I go into this a bit on "3 ways to catch more green waves...." but it deserves it's own video. Stay tuned!
my tip is to tilt and orientate your board to right or left depending if the wave is a right or a left respectively, in order to find the trim that will let you stand up and also get the speed you need. Another one: find your position on your board, it's only one, the optimum one. Sometimes pearling ( nosediving ) occurs because you stop paddling too soon.
beiko maybe try and position yourself further back on your board, that might help
Yeah from my experience it has to do with the steepness of the wave where you're catching it. Trying moving away from the lip (not by a lot) to there the wave isn't too steep (so it doesn't bowel you over) nor not steep enough (so it doesn't pick you up).
Sand is not soft ive been thrown back and shoulder first into the botton on the east coast and its notcomfy
I would love to surf but I’m terrified of being in deep water that I can’t see what’s around me, any tips
Start with small waves with your feet on the sand. Stay there for as long as it takes, and your confidence will grow. Surfing is often scary, the ocean is deep, and you will feel vulnerable. We all do. Acknowledge that the fear is there and do it anyway. It will be worth it!
What surf spot is this? My guess is this is in New Zealand.
I'd say New South Wales South Coast
Yep nz
He won’t tell you, it’s probably a hidden break if none is there
I was thinking NZ too.
Looks like the UK as well, but it can't be because there's no-one else there!
Oooooohhhh hoooooohooooohoooho - SLO-mo dialog
what world is this beach break in? I live and surf in New Jersey and my breaks are nothing like this. Here, the takeoff is easy and there is plenty of shoulder. My beach breaks have a vertical drop in and close out within 5 seconds most of the time. This makes me very jealous. haha
Get on the road bro! Also your swell season is on the way no?
If only there was somewhere to go on the road. The eastern seaboard of the US is junk for the most part. However, I do try to get out to Costa a few times a year.
Where is he surfing at?
What board do you reckon i should get I'm an intermedite
Hey Diana, this is hard to advise without seeing your ability and size (weight). How often you will be surfing (your fitness level) also plays a big role. Generally I see intermediate surfers on boards too small which only slows their progress, so I would say try as many boards as you can get your hands on, and lean towards something a bit bigger, this will help you catch lots of waves and keep your progression flowing. Thanks for tuning in!
POV footage. 😬😊😱
Beach breaks tend to be too fast to surf, and are close outs or should i say walled off.
goood
what's this spot?