Wiring Lights In A Cargo Trailer | How To Add A Battery And Lights In An Enclosed Trailer
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- čas přidán 30. 01. 2022
- This is My Enclosed Cargo Trailer that I have built out to be my Dirt Bike Trailer. It is a 16x7 with 7' interior ceilings. It is a Look Element trailer. This is how I added a 12v deep cycle battery and ceiling LED lights.
Here is a link to the products I used in this build:
6 gauge battery cables: amzn.to/3ALtIQl
12V Fuse Box: amzn.to/3AMkfrW
12V on/off Switch: amzn.to/3rh6Fdd
12 AWG Wire: amzn.to/3L1jhwQ
NOCO Battery BOX: amzn.to/3Hl7oiQ
NOCO External Plug: amzn.to/3N8bwXM
Noco Onboard charger: amzn.to/3NmvDBu
LED Ceiling Lights: amzn.to/34kZhnV
Led strip lights: amzn.to/3wA8bdl
Thanks for watching, Please like and Subscribe
For Business or Promotional opportunities email me at: myksgarage11@gmail.com. Thanks! The above links are my Amazon Affiliate links, as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting my channel! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I just got my first trailer and it's a fixer upper. I'm so glad i found your videos and that it all still holds up. Thanks a ton.
Yes, good luck with your trailer build!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to share this. I’m looking to do the same thing and I think I’m going use your video for a reference guide, just kept going back and forth 12volt versus house outlets but really like your idea 👍👍👍
Thanks Dwight
Glad it was helpful!
Love this video. Watched a bunch of different ones trying to figure out the best way to wire up our work trailer. By far the best I’ve come across and most relevant to what I’m trying to do 👍🏻
Awesome! Thanks for watching
My be
Aa
Anyone looking on how to run electric into a trailer, this is the best video on CZcams for it. I just converted my trailer into a toy hauler, was worried about electric, I followed every step now I have power in my new converted toy hauler trailer, saving over $19,000 from buying a new one, even added outlets. Awesome explanation in this video
I appreciate your feedback! Thanks for watching
I’ve been looking for the video like this for a long time very easy explained finally.. thanks I will start finally working on my project this weekend!
Glad it helped! Good luck!
Hello,
I just purchased a trailer and had no clue how to install the LED lights. The video was very easy to follow and helped me figure out my path.
Thank you so much!
I'm glad this helped!
This is SO HELPFUL! Thank you for making this video. I've been trying to figure out how to do this on my enclosed and now I think I can!!!👍👍
You betcha!
Great job. I watched your epoxy floor video because I plan to do that on my 24’ trailer. Just a small tip, in a 12v system you could have used the trailer frame as the ground and you would have only needed to run the positive wire for each light.
Yes I thought about that, if the welds are soild that’s a good idea, I wanted to make sure I had goo grounds so I just ran the grounds to the battery. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video man, I was looking for something like that to do on my trailer
Nice! Thanks for watching
Also want to say thank you for a GREAT video and taking the time to put it together. Next time you need to splice and join wire have a look at the products from Wago like their compact pushwire splicing connectors.They are a life saver and so much better than the old pigtail connectors. Cheers!
Good suggestion, thanks for sharing!
damn dude you got that trailer so hooked up. I love it
Yeah man! It was a fun build, and has been very practical for our uses.
I prefer wago connectors over wire caps any day. Great video
👍
exactly what I was looking for
Nice! Good luck
Excellent video, thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Crimp splices would be much better for a mobile application. Wire nuts are intended for stationary application, like houses and buildings.
Yes, thanks for the suggestion
Could potentially add a solar panel setup and mount the panels on top of trailer and that would charge batteries while at locations
Just finished the vid, you covered what I said above lol
Great video, thanks for posting it. I’m gonna give it a try in mine
Very nice! Best of luck!
Good video! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
very good video guy i just bought my 6/12 trailer
Cool! Have fun customizing it!
Great video!
Nice
Good video. I would definitely not use grease caps, use crimp heat shrink connections or old fashioned solder and heat shrink. The grease caps allow moisture and debris in and cause a bad connection. Also, to be able to charge your battery off your truck, find the positive wire in the 7 way trailer plug on the trailer side, tap into it, and obviously add a fuse, connect that to the positive battery terminal, and run a negative battery terminal to the trailer frame so it can be grounded.
Thanks for the tips
This is a very good video it helped alot I really appreciate it! Thumbs up keep up the good work! Thank You Sir!
I'm glad you liked it! Thanks
The wire nut caps are also known as merits. Lots of useful information here. Thanks.
👍
Love it!
👍
Great video
Thanks
Excellent video
Thank you!! 🙏
great job
Thanks for watching!
Where was this video 18 months ago when I was figuring this out myself? 😁
I did a similar setup, but didn’t think about using the wiring block. That’s a great suggestion and I think I’ll go back and add that as well as the RV battery cutoff switch.
I’ll look forward to the solar panel install video
Thanks for watching, I’m glad you found this helpful. Stay tuned for more updates!
Nice! I’m doing this same setup, except I’m adding a power inverter as well because we camp in it and want to be able to make coffee and charge phones and Such
An inverter is a good idea!!
Since I just purchased a new trailer I am going to do most of what you have done. Great vide and tips, I went with the NOCO charger, I have their products. I also realized that 12 gage is too large I will run 14 gage soldered connections. I would be interested in how you intend to do a solar charging feature, that seems a bit more involved.
Here's the solar video!
czcams.com/video/t3fA534DuNI/video.htmlsi=7aJRidJF14iRrpU6
Awesome video and I wired mine exactly like this after watching. I just have to cut the hole for my sure power now. Did you do a video of that also? I would just like to see if so before I cut my hole. Thanks for this video
👍
Awesome video and I wired mine exactly like this after watching. I just have to cut the hole for my sure power now. Did you do a video of that also? I would just like to see if so before I cut my hole as I’m a little nervous to cut into it lol . Thanks for this video
Nice! I did not do a video of cutting a hole, just get a holesaw that is the size of the outlet hole ,and drill right through.
@@Myksgarage Will do tomorrow and give you shouts when I post.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I do have a couple questions: Are you using an AGM or Flooded battery? Do you have a vent in place if you are running a Flooded battery? Thank you again.
It's a flooded battery, and I don't have a vent in place
@@Myksgarage have you notice excessive gas or fumes during charging?
I seen you had a surge protector is that used for anything else? I imagine the leds work because they can run off DC power. If i wanted to use this same set up and utilize a plug for example to run a little vacuum or charge my Milwaukee batteries how would i accomplish this with the dc power coming straight from the battery?
The surge protector is just plugged into the wall outlet, if you want to charge batteries and so forth from the battery you just need to get an inverter, and wire it directly to the battery:
amzn.to/3tuV8re
I have same trailer thinking of doing the expoxy floor how has your floor held up . Debating expoxy vs doind a raptor floor
The floor has held up great, no issues at all.
Great video man thank you for the great tips and tutorial… quick question, how long does the car battery really last before you need to plug it in? With the amount of lights you put can you go a week or two without plugging it in? Not sure how much power those nice LEDs use thanks again
Not sure how long it will last, but I would think a week or so
Sorry im late but, I'm trying to hook up power for my tool trailer. Would this setup be enough to power lights, use battery chargers for tools and possibly a mini fridge?
Yeah you would just need an inverter for the fridge, and some solar to recharge the battery.
This is so organized absolutley beautiful! what is the name of those arms/racks/ mounts for your chairs in the top left corner?!
Thanks for the positive feedback! These appear to be the ones I used in my trailer:
amzn.to/48PJbOP
I didn't see where you put a video out about this but what did you go with for those hanging tool cabinets? I'd do something similar except mount them further apart and use the dead space for shelving.
I used these cabinets: amzn.to/3bwsq3H
@@Myksgarage Thanks!
Wago connectors would have been the best way for making wire connections!
Yeah I agree!
I use aa motion lights. Takes seconds to install and replace battery a couple times a year.
There's an idea!
How long does the battery power the lights before it needs recharged since we have no power when were out on the trail.
I’m sure it could go for days. I’m considering installing a small solar panel that will help keep it charged up
Hey I was wondering what is the part called that you plug the generator to and goes to the battery charger
Here's a link: amzn.to/3S9ESWC
I have my 2014 7x14 Stealth Trailer set up so the Truck charges the deep cycle battery when it's hooked up, why wouldn't you have it charge while your connected, also where are you getting the 110V from?
Just an outlet
I have a similar setup. But now i dont have lights, the power strip has a site wiring fault light on im assuming its because of a light issue any ideas?
A fuse somewhere?
What size fuse did you use in the fuse box? And did you make a solar add on video yet ?
I used 10amp fuse. Here's the solar video
czcams.com/video/t3fA534DuNI/video.html
What gauge wire did you use off battery to disconnect switch and to fuse box ? 8gauge ? Thanks
Yeah it was an 8 gauge
Where did you source those bins near your battery? Are they anchored to the wall?
They are from Home Depot, and yes I have them just screwed into the wall
www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-55-Gallon-Stackable-Storage-Bin-in-Black-232387/300170479?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25S-059_016_GARAGE_ORG-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-D59S-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-FY23_Shopping&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25S-059_016_GARAGE_ORG-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-D59S-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-FY23_Shopping-71700000108113319-58700008320130189-92700079407476727&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61Ucq3UK3HiOm3XG_0O6lWbs9i&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhaLuwtm_hAMVgy-tBh1q3AUOEAQYASABEgLzh_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@Myks Garage
If you took the positive wire coming from the truck to the original light switch and ran it to the battery, would that effectively charge the battery when hooked up to the running truck?
It sounds like it would
I wouldn’t connect it directly to the battery. At most you will get 50-60% charge. That’s why alternators produce more than 12v, generally 13.5-14v.
@@thwrkmns70 if hooking up to live 12v auxiliary power from the vehicle's 7 pin connector be sure to install a battery isolator. Safer and is sure to not drain down trailer by low battery on truck. Don't need a big isolator and this will allow safe charging while vehicle running. Always fuse any source of power. Choose a fuse rated for the trailer auxiliary power circuit. That info can be found in your vehicle manual fuse chart. Choose a slightly smaller rated fuse so you do not overload the circuit and will be changing the fuse on the trailer which is much easier than getting to many fuse panels in the vehicle. You never want to stress the wiring on the vehicle as that is expensive and time consuming to find a damaged wire if you do. Be sure trailer is vented so no dangerous gases build up. It is mandatory on newer trailers. Older ones may not have. Be sure battery can breathe well. Hope this helps some people!
GREAT VIDEO!! What size +/- wire did you run from your battery to the on/off switch, and then to you fuse block? Also, did the fused +/- leads come with the battery charger? Thanks again!
I ran 12 gauge which was probably too large but it's what I had. Yes the fused leads came attached to the charger. Thanks for watching
@@Myksgarage Thank you for responding! I'll send photos of my set up when it's completed.
I am doing this on my trailer. I don't know much about batteries and I want to make sure that I do it right... Do I need to connect a ground wire to the frame and the negative side of the battery?
I didn't connect any grounds to the trailer frame or metal parts. All of my grounds ran back to the negative on the battery, I figured this would make it the easiest for me to understand and wire
Awesome video. Going to start mine this week. This may be a stupid question, but could you just buy linkable LED lights and effectively just wire the first light and use the included connections to link ind run the rest of the lights?
It sounds like that would be a good short cut. Good luck in your build!
Curious, why didn’t you run all those lights in series off the existing dome light. It’s already switch connected and wiring would be a lot cleaner
Because that light was not connected to the new battery I installed
I have a similar setup but mounted my battery out on the tongue. The guy at the battery shop said that they need to be outside due to normal venting?
Not sure on that.
Correct. A wet cell battery should not be mounted inside of an enclosed space because they off-gas when charging. I used an AGM battery in one of my cargo trailers, which is OK for inside mounting, because they are totally sealed.
If my trailer didn't have a existing light switch and want to add one and lights like yours. Would I just hook 2 positives and 2 negatives to the light switch pos and neg connectors and have one pos and one neg going to the fuse block and then then other pos and neg running up from the switch and into each light
The light switch just interrupts the positive wire. So a positive wire from the battery or fuse block to the light switch, then a positive wire leaving the light switch going to the positive on the LED lights. The negative you will just run from the battery directly to the negative on the lights. See this link to this 12v switch that just has 2 terminals, both are for positive, so positive in from the battery and positive out to the lights.
amzn.to/3QGaiCA
@@Myksgarage okay gotcha so I have the same switch but a dual and my issue is I was connecting the pos and neg to the switch but really I should just be using 2 pos from the switch one to the lights and one to the fuse block. Also does the neg for the lights have to go to the battery or could I use one of the neg terminals from the fuse block ?
Yeah you can use the negatives on the fuse block, it's easier that way, so you don't have a a bunch of individual wires going to the battery. The fuse block is just an extension of the battery
@@Myksgarage awesome, thank you again for the insight and help
To add outlets would you just add into that fuse box, or is there different box needed? Sure it’s self explanatory, but just curios. You Did a fantastic job.
To and an outlet it would have to be a 12v outlet, like a 12v socket and yes, just add it to the fuse block
Thank you
As far as I can tell I have the exact same setup as yours. 8 of the same lights on your list, same wiring setup with the fuse block and a size 27 deep cell marine 12 volt. Hooked it all up tonight and my lights are extremely dim. What could I be missing?
Either defective lights, or low voltage going to the lights, check your connections and make sure the battery is charged.
Thanks I appreciate the reply, my next step is to confirm my connections. I believe my “battery to fuse box” cables/contacts may be too big for a good connection to the fuse box.
👍👍
Thanks for watching
So is the charger charging the battery even when not plugged in from the outside with an extension cord?
How long will it last without having to plug the trailer back in at the house?
It would last a week or so, the led lights don't draw much power
How did you get onto my amazon account and order the same items sitting in my cart!
🤷
Where are your links to your 12v charger and plug that goes on the outside of your trailer?
I'll update them, thanks
Question for you - it has been a year - did the LED lights stand up and do they still work? Just asking before I buy the same from Amazon
Yeah, every thing still works great, no issues
@@Myksgarage Thank you - I am placing an order for those - great video on the lighting!. You are right - there are not many cargo trailer lighting video.
Did you need an inverter to switch from 12v to 120?
I don't have one in this trailer. I just have the power strip plugged into the wall outlet, which runs off the extension cord. All of the lights I'll run off 12 V, but if I wanted to run a 120v I would need to add an inverter to the battery
Holy Buzz Light Year you do enjoy you lights.
Is that epoxy on top of the floor plywood? What kind of epoxy is it? Exterior, interior wood epoxy, garage concrete floor epoxy,... and was it rollered on, brushed on,...?
This is the 2nd trailer I have something like that on the floor.
Those wire nuts are not designed for situations like this where there is lots of vibration, such as when the trailer moves via towing. They are for in stationary structures.
As you mentioned it would have been acceptable, cleaner looking and tidier to use a smaller, thinner gauge wire like an 18 or 20 gauge considering the lights are LEDs and draw very low currents, amps.
I know guys who use a small riding tractor battery for their lights and it last all summer without charging. So your big batteries may be over kill, unnecesary weight and space consumers.
Good feedback
How does the cabinets on the wall hold up while traveling? How did you secure them?
The hold up great, they are just screwed into the studs on the wall,
@@Myksgarage I wouldn’t think the frame would be strong enough. I just got a 7x14 and really like your setup in the v with the tool chests/tables and am going to use it as a starting point for mine!
The cabinets themselves are not that heavy, and I don't put a lot of heavy items in them so it's not an issue. Also, I like that they lock so that the doors do not fly open when I'm driving. Good luck on your build!
What size is the tool box that is on the floor and how did you mount the wall cabinets?
So I’m going to break the “no dumb questions rule”. If you’re not plugged into a power cord on the exterior of the trailer, will the battery itself act as a power supply for a short period of time that allows fhe lights and power strip on your toolbox to operate?
That's exactly right! It will last several days before needing to recharge becuase the led lights draw so little power!
Have you changed this setup to include any 120v outlets or anything more than just LED lights as the load?
One more question, what lights did you use?
LED Ceiling Lights: amzn.to/34kZhnV
Led strip lights: amzn.to/3wA8bdl
Thank you
Any help would be nice. I created this exact setup only thing different with mine is that I had to add a switch for the lights due to my trailer not having one. The problem I am having is that when I toggle the switch for the first time I pop the fuse. I went as high as 30 amp fuse which I know is way to much for a circuit like this but it still popped. I ran the red wires all together which is going to positive on the switch and I have black coming off other side of the switch the load side to all the black wires to the light. What am I missing? I also tried getting a different switch thinking maybe the switch was faulty but it did the same with that switch so I am missing something but can’t wrap my head around what it is. Any help would be nice thanks in advance.
The negative wire does not go to the switch, the switch only interrupts the positive wires, all of the negative should be run directly to the negative side of the battery
@@Myksgarage so what wire goes from the load side of the switch? Or maybe I should ask what do you put on the load side of the switch?
@@Myksgarage I also ran all red wires to both sides of the switch, which didn’t seem right but gave it a try and then the lights wouldn’t switch off at all.
@@Myksgarage Nevermind it all just clicked to me and I have it working correctly now. Thanks!
Just to confirm. You have Red Positive wire going from Battery to Positive side on shutoff switch. Then on the other end of the shutoff switch, you are just running a wire (Red or Black) to the Positive on Fuse box, correct? Then the Negative black wire from battery is going to the negative on shutoff switch. Was size of fuse are you using?
Correct on the first part, but The negative wire is not ran anywhere to the shut off switch. The negative from the battery is just going to the negative terminal on the fuse block.
Do you think you can send me a diagram of how you set up the electric work?
I don't really have a diagram
@@Myksgarage ok, thank you. Btw, your video is one of the best on CZcams. I have been looking for something like this. Unfortunately, I am clueless when it comes to the initial connection between the battery, charger, switch, and fuse box.
How much did this cost? How much do you think it would cost to have a company do this for you?
The wiring with the battery and lights was under $250.
Links: LED Ceiling Lights: amzn.to/34kZhnV
Led strip lights: amzn.to/3wA8bdl
See description for other links, thanks for watching!
No low voltage cut out
What's that?