Concerning the evolution of the kilt between ca.1715 and ca.1860
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- čas přidán 27. 11. 2015
- A rambling, disjointed near-stream-of-consciousness soliloquy concerning the evolution of the military kilt ca. 1715-1859 and 1860-present.
The 'little kilt' or philabeg (Scots Gaelic, lit.
'small wrap' ca.1715 was a utilitarian garment of rudimentary construction - very practical for daily wear in the out-of-doors, but by no means 'well-tailored'. It was replaced ca.1860 by the 'modern' tailored 7- or 8-yard kilt which in turn has become a more complex, 'finished' and flattering garment over the 150 years of its' existence.
I love your experimental archeological approach. Well done!
I also heard Scottish kilt maker Nikki Laird say that heavier kilts(she was referring to tartan weight for a modern 8 yard kilt) are actually better in hotter climates, because of how they drape and move. Lighter kilts or 5 yards kilts are likely to make you sweat more. She based this on some observations she made whilst in Texas, USA.
I wonder if that’s part of why they introduce more fabric into the kilts worn in India?!
I should add that 'box-pleated' kilts certainly existed during those early years, but I believe that they were a 'non-military' item because soldiers living in billets or under canvas didn't have access to what passed for an 'iron' to press the pleats. Given a 'batman' (personal servant) an OFFICER might have achieved a pressed kilt, but it'd take a lot to convince me that the ordinary Private McGubbins would go to the effort.
I enlisted right at the end of that era: twice-daily roll call, standing 'to your beds' for morning inspections - and spending nearly all of your off-duty time in doing your boots and brasses for next-morning's inspection. When your life's like that you don't add to your workload!
Thank you! I'm trying to make a kilt for my husband... This video was very informative!
Being new to kilt appeal and Kiltology, I found your video very informative.
Writing a fiction novel about tartans and time travel ... your videos were great research! thank you!
How’s that going?
Great video Rob. Very informative
Thank you kindly for sharing. I'm very interested in the development of the plaid into the little kilt into today's traditional kilt (and all variations). My favourite kilt to wear today is a 4-yard box-pleated kilt and I'm working to learn how to make my own. Good stuff, thanks again/go raibh maith agat/tapadh leat.
So great! Thanks so much for the information! P.s it didn't bother me that you hit the table sometimes XD
Very interesting!
One of my books on the Highland regiments (of Scotland) has a list of what years the yardage in the regimental kilts was increased, as I recall it was a more or less steady increase throughout the 19th century culminating towards the end of the century at what we consider a full-yardage kilt. I can't now recall which book, nor can I remember the specific dates and yardages. I'm guessing it was determined by the amount of yardage a solider was issued.
I want a box pleat kilt,
Hello Robert, have you ever heard about military men use paraffin to make a cut selvedge to not fray ? If so, where can I read or watch instructions on how to do it ??
No, never heard of that one.
I loved the way that you banged the work table, it certainly brought the message home. What extra requirements were there for the aprons the kilted soldiers wore over the kilt in the trenches?Extra straps, buckles etc? Scots wahay
Thanks - that's a good question. the khaki (pronounced KARkey) kilt-apron was and is held on with a cloth 'tape' much in the manner of a cook's apron. I'll dig mine out and do a vid about them!
..Maybe I should offer "Team Banging" and "Team Not-banging" buttons to my product line!
Thank you
Very helpfull video, im making a kilt of sorts myself. Are you in Canada, Sir? You mentioned (Montreal and Halifax ) plus the way you say "Cadets" makes me think so lol (im canadian myself)
Yes, I'm in Vancouver. Good luck with your kilt! ('luck' has nothing to do with it - persist and you will succeed - and please ask any questions that arise.)
I have a question regarding the width of the pleat on the four yard box pleated kilt . I am having one made by a women that you taught and want it in the Muir tartan . The ideal width is 2 1/2 " to 2 3/4 " to work with the tartan . She says the width of the box pleat should be 3 " . I also have a 32 " waist so it is not going to be a big kilt . I would appreciate knowing if the less than 3 " dimensions would work . I have another box pleated kilt that has the smaller pleat dimensions and does not feel loose enough around the apron ( less freedom of movement ) but I think the pleats were stitched down too far that is causing that problem . PS. Love your videos . . I should add that the first box pleated kilt that I think is not made quite right is made by a kiltmaker in Ontario . ..my regret .
That's a difficult one to answer without having the cloth or the kilt on the board in front of me. The difference in pleat-width at the seat (1/4" to 1/2") is significant and I'm sure would result in the pleats overlapping on the inside - which is less than desirable.
The bottom of the fell (sewn portion of the pleats) should be no lower than the widest point of the seat but can be as much as 1" above that point - perhaps that might ease the apron.
Beyond that I'm reluctant to judge without handing the cloth or observing the tailor's methods.
Thanks for the reply Robert . I sent Dawn the Muir tartan sample ( leftover from my eight yard ) so she could have something to muck about with . I will see what she recommends . Regarding the box pleat kilt I already have she said ( going by description over the phone ) that it could be an issue with the fell being sewn too low so I think you have backed up her best guess . I'm not sure if it is worth getting fixed . Thanks again for your time . PS. Always had a soft spot for the Seaforth cap badge . Probably the coolest looking Highland cap badge out there .
I want that kilt. 😀
Hey sorry so what's the traditional name of the original kilt? The first one. That's one I wanna get
Do you mean the one that looks sort of like a 'toga'? That's a Philabeagh (lit:"big wrap") (EDIT: - sorry, it's a 'Philamhor' - now my cursed memory is going! haha. Beagh = 'little', Mhor = 'big'.
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Actually "Feilidh Mo'r" in Scottish Gaidhlig
@@danpictish5457 maybe more people would be tempted to learn the language if it wasn't spelled like Klingon....
(and my email turns into a river of flame in 3......2..........)
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 I agree. It's such an ancient language!
Thanks for the video from a Yank.
Así o más rápido ???
Been trying to make one will someone please help me
That's the intent of my videos! Buy some cloth, take a deep breath and experiment! with practice and a bit of thought you will succeed.
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 I did that, learned a lot by making mistakes. I used 60/40 US BDU camouflage material because it was cheap and I was used to working with it. But I learned from experience the difference between a 3-yard and an 8-yard kilt, learned about the 'A' line, where the waist should go, the limitations of pins during assembly, and a lot more. My mistakes are good for morning walks, now I just need to find some real tartan cloth and apply the lessons.
@@martinmorehouse9645 Those weren't 'mistakes' - they were 'research' in that you discovered a bunch of ways that DIDN'T work - and lessons learned in such a manner are often better than formal instruction.
was kilt only worn by men?or also by women.?
All surviving evidence shows that the kilt was strictly male attire. There was a concurrent female garment called the 'arisiad'(sp?).
The kilt is now worn without comment by female soldiers of the highland regiments; This after years of disapproving resistance by the dinosaurs of a previous generation - and I will admit that I was one of them - but the 'Distaff Jocks' have proven themselves fit for the task. There DO remain problems of 'fit' as the female form is (no surprise) different from the male - but I cover that topic in another video.
I have been told the kilt is too heavy for a woman to wear.
haha - tell that to the countless women who wear the kilt as soldiers in Canada's 16 kilted regiments! I'll wait here...
please stop banging the table, its very interesting and distracted me from the narative.
I now have a new (at least to me) work table - let's see what acoustic properties it has! ;)