👍Just what I needed because the next kilt will be box so I can retire my cheap one that served me well during many 'battles'. Now it's waiting for the cloth (double width) to arrive . It will be a higher kilt because the 1812 79th highlander coatee is very short (navel height) and that makes your shirt visible in the shorter kilt (23 3/4) I am wearing now. So please take your time explaining every detail of the process.
There is an old adage to the effect of experimentation paves the road to innovation. Watching you work through the box pleating method is inspiring. Regarding sewing through multiple layers of cloth, the method of pleating and sewing in the book you once referenced instructs the maker to sew through the material of the next pleat. This essentially gives two layers of cloth for the seam to ancor to. The benefit would be a more stable foundation beneath the seam. Is it necessary with quality cloth? That is a deep rabbit hole to go down.
it's entirely unnecessary with good cloth - another difference being my method and style of the interior canvas, which renders the need to 'anchor more securely ' redundant
I have now made a second kilt with cloth from D.C.Dalgliesh. On this second kilt, I used your methods exclusively to compare notes from my first. I will admit sewing the fell your way was much easier, even for a right-handed person. The gentleman I made it for wore it for 18 hours straight and said it didn't move an inch and was comfortable the whole time. I believe that is a testament to your methods. It also pretty well settled the debate for that extra layer of cloth in the fell seam.
I was recently watching a CZcamsr called the Bearded Kilter working on a 4 yard kilt with box pleating as a means of showing his practice. I wonder if it will be interesting or useful at all for you to see another maker's techniques. Either way, I look forward to more of your fine work!
I don’t know if it’s ideal, but have been using Gütterman 100% Silk thread, and it’s seemed to work well so far + have had good color matching to the kilts I’ve worked on , so far. . It’s regular item at Joanne Fabrics in US (I’m in Puyallup, WA). I wonder why BC places have gotten more challenging for silk thread?
not in this case....the decisive factor here is the number of 'repeats' of the sett between the two aprons. I'm being a bit "quick and cheerful ", while bearing in mind that, by surviving records kilts were pleated without ANY regard to the sett in the distant past .
I really like the look of this kilt.
As do I - I'm really looking forward to wearing it!
👍Just what I needed because the next kilt will be box so I can retire my cheap one that served me well during many 'battles'. Now it's waiting for the cloth (double width) to arrive .
It will be a higher kilt because the 1812 79th highlander coatee is very short (navel height) and that makes your shirt visible in the shorter kilt (23 3/4) I am wearing now.
So please take your time explaining every detail of the process.
Will do!
I'm thinking about asking the Mill is they could/would consider weaving the 'single width' less wide than what they currently offer (70cm)
There is an old adage to the effect of experimentation paves the road to innovation. Watching you work through the box pleating method is inspiring.
Regarding sewing through multiple layers of cloth, the method of pleating and sewing in the book you once referenced instructs the maker to sew through the material of the next pleat. This essentially gives two layers of cloth for the seam to ancor to. The benefit would be a more stable foundation beneath the seam. Is it necessary with quality cloth? That is a deep rabbit hole to go down.
it's entirely unnecessary with good cloth - another difference being my method and style of the interior canvas, which renders the need to 'anchor more securely ' redundant
I have now made a second kilt with cloth from D.C.Dalgliesh. On this second kilt, I used your methods exclusively to compare notes from my first. I will admit sewing the fell your way was much easier, even for a right-handed person. The gentleman I made it for wore it for 18 hours straight and said it didn't move an inch and was comfortable the whole time. I believe that is a testament to your methods. It also pretty well settled the debate for that extra layer of cloth in the fell seam.
I was recently watching a CZcamsr called the Bearded Kilter working on a 4 yard kilt with box pleating as a means of showing his practice. I wonder if it will be interesting or useful at all for you to see another maker's techniques. Either way, I look forward to more of your fine work!
Thank you for that - I certainly will check it out to see what I may learn!
I don’t know if it’s ideal, but have been using Gütterman 100% Silk thread, and it’s seemed to work well so far + have had good color matching to the kilts I’ve worked on , so far. . It’s regular item at Joanne Fabrics in US (I’m in Puyallup, WA). I wonder why BC places have gotten more challenging for silk thread?
That's my 'gold standard ' as well, but for some reason the 'suits' at that firm decided to stop exports to Canada...
Somehow I prefer less pleats much more .
When making the box pleat, is the pleat size dictated by the set size?
not in this case....the decisive factor here is the number of 'repeats' of the sett between the two aprons.
I'm being a bit "quick and cheerful ", while bearing in mind that, by surviving records kilts were pleated without ANY regard to the sett in the distant past .
that is quite a gorgeous tartan! I will see about getting some of it myself, as a colourblind man, I can see most of it!
Ironically, this was chosen by a client who now wears it while hunting upland game birds as a sort of DPM (camouflage)!