Resistance Soldering or Traditional Iron
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- čas přidán 9. 03. 2021
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• Resistance Soldering /...
Hopefully you will find this quick comparrision useful.
I compare carbon resistance soldering with a traditional electric heat solder iron.
I am soldering 2mm copper wire to make kenetic art / rolling ball sculptures.
The resistance soldering unit I use is from www.frost.co.uk
www.frost.co.uk/carbon-resist...
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Music: Immer Zusammen
Composers: Spiegelstadt
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#RBS #RollingBall #MarbleRun #Soldering #Copper #Art #Sculpture #Workshop
Thanks for doing this comparison. I hadn't heard of resistance soldering before.
I think it’s really neat.
Hi. Do you have a link to the resistance soldering iron used ?
The resistance soldering unit I use is from www.frost.co.uk
www.frost.co.uk/carbon-resist...
Hi would you recomme d resistance welding for connections that are hard to mate with regular soldering iron?
Hi Rick. I guess you should use something that meets your particular needs. I now swap between standard iron, resistance iron and gas torch.
Can I ask you you say it’s copper wire but seems to stiff is it actually copper coated steel?
25watts is not enough for that type of soldering, I’d use a minimum of 75watts with a large tip… big is better for instant joints it also helps localise the heat at the joint … I’m confident I can solder quicker than both of those you did with the right iron
Thanks for your comment Neil. Yes I use solid copper. Not coated steel.
For brass rods 3/32" do you think iron solder is better to use or a butane torch work better? and if the iron solder is better what is the recommended flux and solder wire combination? asking for a class lol thank you.
Hi. Good question. Unfortunately I’ve never worked with brass rods. Only copper. Maybe someone here can help you? Cheers. 🍀🌿☘️
Hello. Been following your RBS journey for a couple of weeks. I'm not familiar with resistance soldering and think it might be a better way to deal with this kind of work. I noted the unit you are using, not sure it's compatible with US voltage requirements but the price is quite reasonable compared to some units available in the US. For the unit you have what kind of amperage are you using for your work? The unit description just indicates a low and high setting but does not say what the amperage is just that the output is 6 volts (I assume DC).
Hi. The input voltage states 200-240v so not good for US. I don’t know the amps as I’ve never measured it. I’ve only ever used it on low. Recently someone said I should use a foot switch so I’ve made myself one and am currently learning to use it properly.
I looked at the US ones and thought there was some pretty nice units around. Maybe it’s best to buy local to reduce postage and have a repair / exchange opportunity if you need support.
@@CopperGravity The units available here are quite costly. You are right to use a foot switch, I've talked to railroad modelers who use resistance soldering and the method they recommend is touch the carbon rod to the work press the switch, solder, release the switch, wait for solder to cool, remove the rod. I may look into a DIY solution using a low voltage transformer or alternatively an old PSU from a computer. Thanks for the info!
I have used these types of units before, and they are ok for work such as what is illustrated here, but I would never use it electronic gear. The tweezer type are handy for XLR cables and such, but thats about it, as far as my experience goes.
I agree. Traditional heat iron for electronics, this is art / scultpture.
Your conventional soldering iron is of very low wattage for that kind of work. I use an 80W iron with digital temp control. Very quick and no need to fiddle around with an earth clamp.
Bonjour pourriez vous me dire le non et la référence de votre fer a souder a impulsion électrique je n arrive pas a en trouver je vous remercie
In the UK I bought the SKU B280 unit from Frost.
www.frost.co.uk/carbon-resistance-soldering-system/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAx9mABhD0ARIsAEfpavSyR85J3qgiO1ige5PTZmbmCBxPH-bgbAq50i0gGq_zskSjha7vSGIaAhC8EALw_wcB
Dear Sir ..
How power (watt) or ampere is need when resistance soldering iron working. Many thank you
Hi. To be honest I’m not sure as I use a commercial off the shelf unit and it is not marked. I think I once read that it’s 6amp.
@@CopperGravity
Thank you so much Sir
@@CopperGravitythanks
This is rediculous : maybe you could also have shown us how bad soldering you can get using a banana or a twig. The only redeeming feature of those low power passive antex style soldering irons is that they are cheap. Try a high power temperature controlled type eg a weller. With the right temperature you will find the solder melts and flows almost instantly
Thanks Dave. Totally agree. Weller is the way to go for heat soldering. Buy my latest sculpture and I’ll be able to afford one!! 😝
Totally terrible technique -- what, was the amount of arcing between the workpiece and your resistance soldering tip not sufficient enough of a clue? You are meant to energise the circuit AFTER it is formed and de-energise it BEFORE breaking it, not just leave the power on. It's not fucking arc welding -- which hilariously enough this would also be a really good demonstration of how to fuck up at.
You make a good point. Thanks. I’ve got a lot better since I made this video. Interestingly the unit I bought is always live meaning there is no switch. It has a boost switch for extra amps, but not the ability to perform the soldering in the way you describe. It definitely makes sense to have one. Everything considered, I am converted to resistance soldering for the type of solder work I’m doing. Thanks again for taking the trouble to comment, I appreciate it.
@@CopperGravity You might be able to connect a mains foot switch to the unit if it doesn't have any electronic control circuit. You will know because it will immediately start heating a test piece when plugged in.
Thanks. Since I uploaded this video I made and fitted my own 60amp foot switch. I must upload an update sometime.
Calm down baby...dont cry. Go find mommy goof