Unbelievable HO Scale Model Build - What's So Different? (Ep. 17)
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- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
- I needed a small-ish background structure for the layout to build the non-railserved Smith & Sons Sign Company. This resin kit from Lunde Studios fit the bill nicely. It's a resin kit for beginners, and in this video I go through my process on deciding how and where it fit, then get into the process of cutting the walls and getting everything ready for paint and assembly. I also cover how I used a wash to create mortar lines.
If you've ever wanted to get into model trains, or build a small switching layout but didn't know where to start, this series is for you, because it's all about how to build a small layout! There's a lot to think about when building a train layout, especially in a tight space, and we'll cover everything you need to know on how to build a small layout. This is the seventeenth episode in the series on building a small HO scale layout.
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
01:27 - Determining Size
02:40 - What's in the Package
03:48 - Preparing the Pieces
07:16 - Paint and "Mortar"
11:32 - Assembly (Part 1) Walls
17:54 - Windows & Doors
20:46 - Assembly Part 2 (Roof, Loading Dock, and Awning)
28:15 - Wrap Up
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#modelrailroading #modellayoutsigns #modelrailroad - Jak na to + styl
I might suggest you “open” a door or two. A couple of pieces of styrene can be used to create a shadow box.
A couple of workers and a forklift coming out of the building can add a lot of interest.
Not a bad suggestion. Luckily it’s one of those things I can always go back and retrofit pretty easily.
Great build and a lot of helpful hints. I would suggest staggering the pieces for extra strength from 2 to 3 window sections. Use a full roof panel on the left and the cut piece on the right to stiffen the splice between main parts. Same with the platform and awning pieces. As mentioned below, having one or more loading doors open would give it more life too. Enjoying your videos since discovering them this morning.
If it was longer I would have done it that way. But at this size I had no issue with stiffness or support. Glad you found the channel! Hope you enjoy the videos. 🙂
Depending on your resin formula, you can sometimes use Testors "Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker" rather than CA. Depending on your resin formula, it may require roughing the glue surface with 500-grit sandpaper or steel wool to get a good bond. Selling point of Clear Parts Cement is that it is non-toxic and not much smell.
Any way to tell just by looking at the resin if that cement will work ?
@@ThePixelDepotLLC - I am not sure if there is a surefire way to tell what a sort of resin is just by looking at it. Maybe someone else knows a way, but they all look pretty similar to my old eyes. What I can say is that I have had a high success rate with Clear Parts Cement with every brand of resin-cast model. I think it mostly comes down making certain any demolding residue is cleaned off the cast. In pursuit of that, soap, water and an old toothbrush are your friend.
Things are really coming together for great shelf layout. Change the roof line of the backdrop building so it doesn't replicate that of the foreground flat.
Interesting suggestion. I would probably do that except the backdrop is supposed to represent one HUGE structure on the facing street, so the height would likely be consistent all the way across.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I take your point, but perhaps roof top details (vents, A/C units, etc.) on the closer building could further distinguish the two.
@@jerrysmith1929 agreed. I am actually going to put a sign up there and it makes a huge difference.
Hi Joe, excellent choice, looks quite 'natural', as if it belongs.
Thanks, Rob. It does feel right at home. Not bad for a random train show find!
nice video you done enjoyed it very much and thanks for sharing DD.
Thanks very much for replying to my comment. That's the great part about the hobby sharing ideas and learning new ideas from other people to improve our Channel's. Stay safe DD.
Great build. I’d never seen the future floor polish used for adhesion before…!
Works great because it sticks but also makes the windows smooth and shiny. Works equally well if you want the windows to be see-through.
Really interesting. Does it work just between acetate and resin…Assuming the window material you painted black was acetate?
@@johnarthur6302 I've used this with both resin and plastic with good success.It's not called Future anymore, though. It's a Pledge product now. You can find it here through my affiliate link: amzn.to/3LgyuK5 . That'll be a lifetime supply! 😀
Fantastic build. Always learn a thing or two from you. Thanks for sharing. Dave
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Now I have to get my act together and finish it!
Very informative video. I think it looks pretty good there. Good job, Joe.
I’m liking how it looks, as well. Still needs some work though.
As to the gap on the side of the building, I thought maybe run a downspout down the side.
@@markwakeley3835 exactly my plan!
great build, will be doing same on my layout. Love you LEGO use, original I would say
Thanks, Steve! I’m not sure I can claim it’s an original idea, but I’m surprised more people don’t do it.
Very well done
Thanks!
Well done. Good looking structure. I picked up some fake leggos at the dollar store. perfectly square and only a buck
I’ve got something coming about those!
R u planning on using some type of putty for the side?
If so, what putty?
Thanks.
No, I actually have a different plan for it, but you’ll have to wait until the next video to see what it is! That said, if I was going to use putty it would likely be Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe Materials. You can get it from Amazon through my affiliate link: amzn.to/3Mv3MNk
What did you use to wash the parts with? And, do you do the same with styrene kits? Would it be easier to trim the background building shorter? Otherwise your new building looks great!
I use a couple of drops of a dawn dish detergent (just the plain old “classic” formula) in warm water in the kitchen sink. I put the parts in to soak for a few seconds, and then just scrub each part with a soft toothbrush. Rinse thoroughly and air dry. And yes, I do the same for plastic or styrene kits.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC Hey! Thank you. Getting ready to start some kits for my layout.
What is the tool you are using to apply the CA to the resin pieces? Where did you get it?
Sorry it took so long for me to respond. The tool is called “The Glue Looper”. The reason I didn’t say much about it in the video is that I’m not actually that thrilled with it.
Just ordered a sampler pack. I use toothpicks to distribute glues and thought I would give these things a try.@@ThePixelDepotLLC
What is the table saw you have that cut the wall section down?
Hi Charlie. That is the "Dremel MS20-01 Moto-Saw." Is is essentially a portable bandsaw/scroll saw that you can use either as a handheld (although I've never done that) or just attached to a bench or table. You can find them here: amzn.to/3yCNBty
@@ThePixelDepotLLC Thank you