Experimenting With Chrome Restoration - Alclad II, Green Stuff World, Mirror & Molotow
Vložit
- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Many vintage toys from the 70s and 80s feature chrome which was usually applied with a vacuum metallizer process.
But years later, the chrome often wears, so what can we do to restore the chrome to its former glory.
I experiment with several different chrome paints - Molotow, Green Stuff World, Mirror (from Stuart Semple) and Alclad II. Comparisons are made between applying with brush and airbrush.
A black base coat is also tried to see if it provides a deeper reflective chrome finish.
It is known that many chrome paints are not very resistant to finger prints. A top coat is also tried to see if this can be fixed.
The airbrush used is a cheap all-in-one from Elikliv...
www.amazon.co.uk/Elikliv-Dual...
#vintagetoys #chrome #restoration
Subscribe to the channel for regular new videos featuring vintage toys mainly from the classic decades of the 70s and 80s.
VTR is also on Instagram and Twitter @vintagetoyrush
Feel free to email us at vintagetoyrush@gmail.com - Zábava
And who doesnt love chrome!!! Some of my attempts have worked, some not so much. Really would like to improve my MASK vehicles chrome, often on the bumpers
Hey Brendan! It is hit and miss which is part of the reason for doing this. I'm beginning to think the airbrush is the way to go especially with the Alclad paint. And what is it with those MASK vehicles - their chrome is always worn!!
I've watched several, or more, videos about chrome paint over the past week. This was one of the best! I am building a 1/10th scale model of a 1930s Austin Seven with a chrome radiator shell and headlights. It will be in a display case, so not too woried about the finger test, it's the shine I am after, and for that I think the Alclad comes out on top. Many thanks.
Lee
Thanks! Good luck with your build and chrome finish 👍
It's really fun to test all the chrome paints and see what they can do, though Barbatos Rex had already done extensive testing on all the popular chrome paints, and he has a lot great tips on how to get the shiniest surface. I suggest learning his techniques before doing more testing.
I have seen Barbatos Rex and enjoy his videos. But as I'm learning how to use these chrome paints there's no harm in doing my own experiments. 👍
Now this!!! Was very helpful!!! I keep threatening to buy a chrome pen just to touch up small areas, but never quite sure about quality of results.
Cheers for this Dave, think I’ll give one a go, that all in one spray gun is wicked too!!!!
Once again exceptional content, your channel deserves so many more subs 👊
Cheers buddy!! 👍 I have a spare Molotow pen, it's yours if you want one 👍 Some day, we'll crack chrome restoration without paying a fortune and with easy to find tools 🤘 And yeah, aiming for 1M subs... in 2150 🤣
@@VintageToyRush 😂😂😂😂😂
Green Stuff World has a Chrome Metal for airbrush. In my experience applying chrome with an airbrush is a significant advantage over brushing it on so your test isn't really apples to apples and you gave Alclad an advantage. Also, when appying with an airbrush do multiple very light layers.
Yeah, airbrush technique is most likely gonna give a better result, but this was all about experimenting with different approaches and paints. I'm definitely a beginner with the airbrush so thanks for the tips 👍
This has been very Educational I’ll be keeping this on my playlist. Thank You Dave.
Cheers Gilster! 👍 I'd love to know what's on your playlist 🤘
@@VintageToyRush Mostly Music ,CZcams videos that I’m apart of ,Film clips & Toy custom videos like this. Great work.
Brilliant video very informative 👌 but we definitely need a part 2 with all the paints in the airbrush 😊👍
Thanks Mark!! 🤘 Definitely, want to use the airbrush more, it's addictive 🤣
I think we can all agree, the Alclad II is very impressive my friend. And airbrushing is definitely the way to go! great video David! Very educational mate!
Cheers Shabby!! 🤘 Airbrush is the way to go, it's addictive!!! 🤘 Gonna start chroming random items in the house - see if DCB notices 🤣
Very useful information. Thanks Dave!
Cheers GForce!! 🤘
I've seen Molotow airbrushed. Perhaps give that a try? LOVE the experiments, Dave. You and I are of the same mind with testing. This was great.
Will definitely have a go at airbrushing the other paints - it's addictive! Although unless a top coat can be found I don't think they'll be resilient. The Alclad is becoming my favourite. And yeah, it does take a certain kind of mind to enjoy testing 🤣 Thanks Michael 👍
Great video buddy, going to try and restore a cylon, so very useful to see the different applications
Good luck Steve - the easiest by far is to use the Molotow pen 👍
Thanks for the experiments! I sent this on to a minatures painter who bemoans his chrome efforts.
Hopefully it's of some use!! 👍
Great vid, appreciate your experiments and for sharing this useful info👍Cheers👊
Thanks Lowbot!! 🤘
Great video and excellent restoration. It looks so fresh. Enjoyed this kind of video. Well editted.
Cheers Chris! 👍 The Alclad definitely provides a very nice fresh Chrome finish!! 🤘
Great experiment and thanks for sharing the results Dave. For best results when airbrushing 3-4 thin coats are the way to go. Alclad Klear Kote gloss should give the finish you want, a flat or satin coat will leave a dull or flat finish. Modellers use these to protect and take the sheen from the final coat where required, think of flat finishes on armoured vehicles or some aircraft. Again apply the clear coat in a couple of thin layers for best results and to avoid pooling.
Hey Jeff!! Thanks for the tips, I'm still learning how to use an airbrush - I probably applied the Klear Kote too heavily (it was the gloss one). I'm wondering if the airbrush is showing it's weakness, yeah I know blame the tools 🤣 I found the gloss Klear Kote to be thick and sticky, so perhaps a little thinner is required? I'm definitely going to try more of this 👍
@@VintageToyRush you're welcome, it's certainly a process you can continually refine. Yes you can thin the clear coats to help prevent pooling, streaking and to aid application. I have a feeling we're going to see more on this so I'm looking forward to it!
@@jeff72_ Thanks Jeff!
What an awesome video Dave! Love the thoroughness 👌 Just been given an airbrush myself and cannot wait to have some time to play around 🙌🍻
Cheers Christian! 🤘 You have the art skills to make the most of an airbrush, can't wait to see the masterpieces you'll create 👍
@@VintageToyRush You're too kind Dave 👊
When going over paint like the gloss coat you need to do it in light thin layers, best achieved via airbrushing light "dry" coats for the first 3 passes and then coming in with a heavier flood pass. Ensure that each coat dries suitably between coats.
You can airbrush all of these coatings.
Ah thanks for the tips! 🤘
Great video Dave.
That Alclad looked brilliant. The Klear Kote Gloss 310-30 might be worth a go.
Had pretty good results with 310-30 over airbrushed Molotow.
Thanks! 🤘 Interesting, I'll check which Klear Kote Gloss I have - it may be that I was too heavy handed with the airbrush. I'm definitely going to try airbrushing the other paints too 👍
Great video, thank you!
Thanks! 👍
AlClad II recommends using their Aqua Gloss as a top coat for high polish paints
Thanks for the recommendation 👍
There's gonna be a lot of Shiny Happy people out there after watching this video Dave. Love that process of elimination to get the best results. You're doing a sterling job for toy community. Now! What else did you chrome 💥💥💥💥💥
Cheers Tez!! 🤘 Just having fun doing this stuff!! 👍 I've got this idea to chrome a load of vintage Star Wars beaters!! What do you think? BTW, Shiny Happy People is now in my head 🤣
@@VintageToyRush You gotta chrome Vader. Or go large with a silver Jabba the Hutt 👌😎
@@TeZXSpectrum Ha ha! Yes 👍
Good video Thanks for sharing Your Adventures 😀 👍 ♥️ 🇬🇧🇨🇦🇺🇸🌎🎉🎉👏👏🎉🎉💯💯
Cheers Mac! 🤘🤘🤘
Top video, Dave. As someone who needs a good chrome effect on my models (mostly die cast) I use the Molotow pens and find it gives a great finish. I sometimes get the same reaction with sprayed undercoats; not using the same brand or formulation of paints will often leave a "marbling" or cracking effect. Excellent tips and pointers mate, very educational. Thank you.
Cheers Keith!! Yeah, the Molotow does provide a good finish and easy to use too! But I wish it was more durable. This is all new to me, haven't done any model making for years, so learning quickly not to mix brands ideally :) Part of the reason for creating this video, so we can share our experience and tips 👍
@@VintageToyRush Yeah, it's good to see how they all perform. I've learned something there mate. Will give that mirror chrome a go for sure.
I bet a lot of people have found this video helpful Dave! 👍That Alclad looked about as good as you'd expect from a new vac metal painted toy from the 80's/90's.
I actually have a cheap rattle can chrome paint that i bought a few years back to convert a pair of 40th Action Man hands into bullet man hands, so i'll see how that goes when summer gets here!
Thanks Darren! Hopefully it's been helpful, I've had loads of hints and tips in the comments, so we're all learning 👍 I'd be interested to see the chromed hands when summer arrives, eventually 🤣
Best chrome out there is the AK super chrome. Easy for any application and don't need clear coat for protection.
Thanks for the recommendation! I'll have to try it out 👍
Great video! I just want to point out that the Alcad top coat you are using is the satin finish. That's why it dulled everything. You want to use Clear Kote Gloss.
Thanks!! 👍 I did actually use gloss, but mistakenly showed the satin finish on camera. My mistake.
Using HOT paints like Lacquers you have to apply thin coats or you'll get "Crazing" like you did. Also not all primers work with all paints, sometimes these paints will eat away at a primer causing a similar effect. Alclad's work best for me thus far and have most of their lineup especially the Black chrome and mirror chrome, Molotow works great too and I use only the 1mm pens and refill them as needed for fine chrome detail. Great video well done!
Thanks for the hints and tips! Have to agree, the Alclad has been my best experience so far and as you say they have a great range of other paints too. Just need to practice applying that top coat 👍 Can / should the top coat be thinned? It maybe the cheap airbrush, but perhaps it was just struggling with the lacquer 🤔
Molotow works. For best results you should use the applicator pen instead of a brush and give it lots of time to cure. I re-chromed a Mego Thor helmet and put it under glass to keep the dust off and let it sit for 4 months. It's now permanently chromed. It works. You just need to do it correctly and you need to be patient.
With applicator pen or not, left for years or not, it makes no difference in my experience. It doesn't resist being handled. I painted some parts 4 years ago with the pen, left them in a cupboard untouched. Thought I see how resilient the chrome would be after this long - exactly the same result as the tests on 2 week cured Molotow. Usually for larger areas I've found a paint brush can give a smoother finish as you'll often get pen lines, unless laid on quite thick which seems to be best approach. I'll still use Molotow but only for small touchups or for items that'll just go on display. In other cases, I'll continue to experiment with Alclad - to my eyes it gives a much better finish 👍
@@VintageToyRush sounds good!
Try Pledge Floor Gloss revive it and Alclad Aqua Gloss clear coat.
Wow, would never have thought about floor polish 🤣 Thanks for the tips 👍
Great test, I would be interested to see you airbrush the molotow, green stuff and mirror paints too. Airbrush versions of those paints are near enough the same, they've just been thinned for airbrush flow. But if you thin these, they should work fine. The alclad is decent for the price I think I'll go that route when my molotow pens run out.
Thanks Bryn! Will definitely try those other paints in the airbrush, I have a thinner on order now. Very pleased with Alclad, be interested to see how you get on 👍
@@VintageToyRush I'll keep you informed, it was interesting the way the clear coat reacted with the finish, I wonder if there is a clearcoat that will work as desired so you get no fingers dulling the mirror look. I'm definitely going to invest in some Alclad ☺️
For the Alclad I believe it should tell you what to coat it with. Aqua gloss is what you coat the chrome with. That is an inbetween for another stronger clear coat. You will lose some chrome shine not matter what you use. If you search up Barbatos Rex chrome, that will bring you to his tests for chrome and coatings you can put on it.
Thank you for the tips! I've watched a few Barbatos Rex videos now. One day I may do a follow up video 👍
With the airbrush try it out with using less air when you start a d release. Like an on off. Think of an airplane landing and taking back off. That will help. Also get a large paper and work on lines dots and shading gradients.
Thanks for the tips!! 👍 Will try those, this was literally my first attempt at an airbrush. Also, have no idea how my cheap airbrush compares to a proper one with a separate compressor!
You'll probably need to knock down the clear coat by polishing it a little, it's just the droplets on the surface diffusing the light. Give it a shot! Once you do that it should be quite polished and resistant to dulling.
Interesting! I'll give that a try. Thanks 👍
Dave 👍
Cheers Jon! 👍
I have seen results when you polish the plastic before the black base. What a difference. You see, if the surface is not slick and smooth, the final result multiplies. see RebelRooster Modeling after he polishes the plastic
Thanks for the great advice and I'll check out RebelRooster!! 👍
I use Mr Hobby leveling thinner with Molotow and it comes out way better for hand painting.
Great tip for a better finish! 👍 Does it still dull though on handling?
@@VintageToyRush I think that it might still dull after handling it unfortunately. I usually try not to touch it after I paint it for quite a while that way it will keep the original shine for a better period of time.
I noticed that the Alclad top coat is satin finish, you may get better results with a gloss coat instead of satin. Satin will dull down the chrome.
It was a while ago now... I think I showed the satin bottle but used the gloss coat. Anyway, thanks for the advice! 👍
There is special clear coat, water based from Alclad it does not dull chrome as much. But realistically you will not get any mirror chrome paint that holds any top coats, sadly I tried them all. Even powder on uv resin. Non of chrome paints hold. Especially Molotow and Mirror from Stuart, they dull out even without touching after a week or two.
That has been my experience also, except maybe for Alclad chrome which seems fairly resilient. I'm surprised how many people swear by Molotow and don't believe my experience. Definitely a mine field with strong opinions 👍
Looks like satin clear is shown for the top coat @ 12:42 which would produce a dull finish.
Yep, I mistakingly showed the Satin bottle, but Gloss was actually used in the experiment 👍
Some of these look great..because I customise my figures every now and then in my beer cellar..I don't wish to spray any particulates in the air...I have seen chrome pens..which would you recommend..cheers mate🍺🍺🍻
Hey! Yeah, you don't want to use an airbrush in an enclosed room. The pen I'd start with is Molotow! Easy to use and gives a good result, although it isn't very resistant to touch. But if you leave to cure long enough or just display your figures it'll be perfect! Thanks for watching 🤘
Green stuff is the best need to learn to use it
I've heard this a few times now so will try it with airbrush next 👍
@@VintageToyRush deff
Did I see that right, you're clear coat was satin? Anyhoo looking forward to an update and I'll probably watch this one again.
Hi Keith, yep I mistakingly showed the Satin bottle, but actually used Gloss in the experiment 👍 Hopefully, there will be a follow up, not sure when though as there are many video ideas and not a lot of time!
Try Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome but it needs a Glossy Black basecoat.
I've heard about that paint, but don't think we can get it easily in the UK. Will search again!! Thanks 👍
Dave, great video with some interesting results. What is the music at 14:47? 🙂
Thanks man! 👍 That music is called 'Future Technology' by Pereveslo. I have a license from a music site - but found the artist on SoundCloud, although this particular track isn't on there... soundcloud.com/pereveslo 🤘
@@VintageToyRush Thanks Dave, I've heard it on a few videos now and it is really catchy.
I would also recommend Scale Model Supplier Hyperchrome
Thanks for the recommendation! 👍
@@VintageToyRush not a drama at all, I've had great results from using their paints. And their customer service is pretty amazing as well.
hi
to clearcoat the alclad chrome its better to use the alclad aquagloss to keep the chrome effect.
Thanks! Will give that a try 👍
Hello again Dave, I must indeed sound like a broken record. Dave at Toypolloi has said the Molotov pen needs 30 days to cure to prevent fingerprint damage. How resilient that may be, is an unknown factor. Furthermore, any clear coat ruins the finish… He did receive as a gift, an actual chrome plating kit. He tried it on a few things & appeared to lose interest in it quite fast. Maybe u could try actual chrome plating urself or for the channel’s sake. That would put an end to the question of what chrome restoration solution is best.
You're not a broken record!! 🤣 All comments are appreciated. I've never had any luck with Molotow resilience - in fact some footage was cut from this video which showed 4 year old Molotow parts dulling on the finger test! Those parts were painted and then left in a cupboard all this time until now. There are some other channels who have shown very successful top coats on chrome - although it's probably an art to get it right - my airbrush skills and cheap airbrush are probably not helping. So, not giving up just yet 👍 I saw Toy Polloi demonstrating the plating kit - the results look amazing and probably can't be beaten. BTW, I don't think Dave has given up on the plating kit just yet 🤘
@@VintageToyRush The cut “lost footage” would’ve been great to see. Add it back to part 2 of ur chroming soon video series!!!
An excellent and comprehensive chrome restoration test, Dave.
I would go with the Mirror chrome paint, every time.
Fans really do the best work. :)
Cheers Kieron!! 👍 Yeah, the Mirror gave a good result and was easily applied with a brush. It is expensive but a little goes a long way. My personal favourite is the Alclad - it does require an airbrush though 🤘
The clear coat said satin which is not gloss and that is why it dulled down all the Chrome paints
Yes, that was a mistake in the recording of the video - I did show Satin, but used Gloss. I think it's more likely my inexperience in using an airbrush at the time, and also using a very cheap airbrush! 👍
12:47 You're holding up a satin bottle in the vid. Did you use a satin clear or gloss? Other people have used gloss clear with no issues.
Yeah, that was a mistake while recording - I did use gloss, I suspect the airbrush struggled with it though, or more likely my inexperience 🤣 I'm still experimenting though 👍
The Liquid Mirror needs to be dried for 3 or 4 days for handling. I prefer Liquid Mirror and Alclad Chrome because they are much better to rechrome old toys.
All the chrome paints were left untouched for 2 weeks before the finger test :) The pieces were stuck to paper so only the paper was handled during that time. I have to agree with you on the Mirror and Alclad - great results 👍
Get a plastic tub to put over your stuff while it dries, this keeps dust from falling into the paint.
Great tip!! That would definitely help create a smooth reflective finish. Thanks 👍
@@VintageToyRush you can also see if there are auto paint supply places around you, they sell these little disposable tack cloths that you wipe with as a last step before spraying, it lifts off all dust that clings without leaving traces.
@@poepflater oh yeah I've watched a few car restoration videos 👍
@@VintageToyRush that little tack cloth makes the dif between a showroom finish and a backyard bodge job.
No thick coats. 1-2 dust coats on a gloss black base
Thanks! 👍 That's something I'm doing now as I refine my skills 🤘
Airbrush green stuff
👍
Molotow is crap, it rubs off after applying no matter how long u leave it to dry, Green Stuff World Chrome brush version is applied with a dabbing motion with a brush so it self levels, it can be thinned with alcohol and used in an airbrush which is best for larger pieces. Testing Green Stuff World Chrome airbrush version now, first result on a glossy acrylic black base is a silver metal with dull reflections, think it maybe bc i used an Iwata Revolution which has a 0.5mm needle, will try with a 0.3mm needle next.
I have the same experience with Molotow!! The dabbing technique is smart, that makes a lot of sense! 👍 So far, Alclad from an airbrush is still providing best results, at least for me!! Good luck in your continued test! 🤘
@@VintageToyRush Thanks, yes Alclad had good results for me too and i use a 0.3 mm airbrush, so that is surely the reason. Chrome paints are usually very thin.
@@VintageToyRush Aqua Gloss is usually used in a thin light coat to protect chrome also if the top coat dulls the chrome u can do another light coat of chrome on top so it if does happen to scratch it will only go to the top coat underneath.
Green Stuff World brush version is my favorite so far, doesn't rub off like Molotow and has the same shine, don't think it needs a protective coat, Green Stuff World chrome airbrush version is set to be just as good as Alclad but tougher so it doesn't need a top coat. Only tested the brush version, wonder how well it airbrushes.
@@TheIcemanModdeler I'm gonna have to try Green Stuff again - my limited experience so far with it was no better than Molotow! Nice trick with applying another chrome coat! 👍
@@VintageToyRush The heavier the coat the longer it will take to dry, i heard when using Green Stuff Chrome Brush version in an airbrush that i will require around 3-4 days to fully cure depending on temperature. I only used the brush version via brush on some small pieces and it doesn't rub off at all.
Try hand or finger buffing
Interesting, I've seen others talk about this. Will have to try on future attempts! Thanks 👍
Clearcoat will always dull chrome, It’s well known. There is however a very specific application technique to get it to stay mirror. I’m happy to share some secrets if you get in contact. I don’t know if these techniques are known so well in the modeler world, I know them from the prop world.
Any tips or hints would be welcomed 👍 I have watched some videos where top coats have been applied to chrome with very good results. Seems like a lot of variables in play, and my inexperience and cheap airbrush are not helping 🤣
you waited a few days for it to dry? big L,24 hours would be enough mate
further more,the chrome should be airbrushed on,not painted on with a paintbrush
It's pretty well known that when using Molotow you need to wait ages for it to cure otherwise it will dull when touched. I was experimenting with both brush and airbrush. I'm now mostly airbrushing. Thanks 👍
@@VintageToyRush good to know
You should have used a gloss clear not satin.
A Gloss top coat was used, I just showed the Satin bottle by mistake on camera 👍
You are doing it wrong. First of all Molotow and GSW chrome are both alcohol based. You are applying it over a lacquer base and the alcohol causes a reaction. For alcohol based chrome you MUST apply it over a an acrylic primer. Also for best results it needs to be airbrushed in THIN coats. Also DO NOT apply a clear top coat. It diminishes the chrome effect at least 10%. There’s NO reason to clear coat over it! The chrome cures to a durable finish like nail polish.
Well, this was my first attempt but I appreciate the advice 👍 Thanks for highlighting the alcohol vs lacquer vs acrylic. I am now applying thin coats as I refine my airbrushing skills. In my experience and others, Molotow does not really ever cure, it will dull on touch, no matter how long it is left. This is why some do apply top coats and successfully. I failed to apply top coats in this video, but that was very likely my skills and very cheap airbrush at the time.
@@VintageToyRush This is why I abandoned Molotow years ago. GSW chrome cures and is very durable and will not tarnish.
the key word on the clear top coat you used is "SATIN". you used the wrong stuff basically. put satin on anything and it's gonna dull it down. ive sprayed klear kote gloss over molotow (sprayed) and it is absolutely fine, with no dulling and it can be handled afterwords. the best part on the vid was that you trimmed your nails, cutting flat across the end is really disturbing and because of that i cannot subscribe.
I showed the wrong bottle, gloss klear kote was used. Very likely down to the cheap airbrush and my technique.
@@VintageToyRush fair enough, molotow does not need a black gloss base coat. It needs to go on so thick what is underneath is irrelevant. I do it over satin black out of a rattle can. To spray the molotow one light coat quickly followed by a heavy coat. If you are painting something like the parts you had a normal 0.3 tip is fine. If it's a larger flat area you need to up the size to 0.5. If you put it on lightly it dries before it has a chance to self level. Leave it for a couple of weeks then hit it with the klear kote. I did not notice any dulling. It can be handled just fine too.
@@VintageToyRush ohh as far as the alclad works it's basically a transparent paint, using the gloss black to trick your eye. Take an alclad piece outside in the shade and watch the chrome disappear
useful tips 👍 at some point I'd like to revisit and try out all the recommendations from everyone.
i've liked the alclad so far, but will see if it does indeed disappear under certain light conditions. i've still got all the test parts so will test them too in different light.