Man after seeing this video I have so much more respect for people that rebuild hydraulic cylinders. Seems like everything is torqued to 1000 ft/lbs haha. Good work man and also the patience you have is crazy I would’ve been throwing tools left and right if something didn’t come undone relatively soon.
The beauty of editing makes all the cursing and tool throwing go away. 😂. This was a pretty typical farm repair though. I get more upset having to drive into town for a tool I need, but the patience is a skill I’ve grown into Welcome to Man Time!
Yup, I admire these guys that calmly stay with it. I throw shit, cuss, feel sorry for myself, cuss the world, think about moving to a 1-room cabin and try not to hurt myself
I rebuild cylinders for work, its not just everything being tight..the cylinders that come for repair are typically covered and sealed in everything from cow shit to concrete... thats always a joy
Specs often call for RED loctite, which requires heat to release that end bolt. Ask me how I know, Lol. Candid and fairly complete video of the process. Excellent video, thanks!
Chances are pretty good that the down time wouldn't have changed had you taken the cylinder in. Progress is pretty slow anywhere ya go. No large quantities of blood or fingers missing. Good job!
... and of all things I blew a tilt cylinder seal yesterday! I'll have to have someone do mine (disabled) but I really appreciate the videos on your 555.
I had to do seals on one not long ago had same problem getting it to loosen I just heated it with torches then used pipe wrench worked great and didnt have to risk damage beating it off
Great Job on a pathologically designed gland nut that needs to be 2x more material thicker for the torque required to disassemble. Some castlations are called for too. "They're all designed like that" is NOT ok
My solution removing the stuck gland nut factory installed on a cylinder never serviced in over 50 years. I have a Ford Construction model backhoe I needed to rebuild the boom lift and curl cylinder . On one cylinder the nut was so tight it was impossible to break lose. I found something that works very well. Since my Nut has notches in it for a special tool that I did not have, it was going to be hard to grab it, I had a 3 ft pipe wrench but did not want to chew up the cast iron nut. I had some 6" pipe so I sliced a piece the width of the nut and cut it to bend to fit the OD of the nut and with space for it to go on over the rod. I cut some pieces of 1/4" steel plate to fit the notchs in the nut and welded the pieces to the inside of the ring as they sat in the notches for positioning. That gave me a protective steel cover for the nut that grabbed it and protected it from the pipe wrench cutting or crushing it. I had to run several beads of welds on the outside of the pipe ring to get the pipe wrench to bite it. I put the pipe wrench on my ring and used a 4 ft cheater pipe over the pipe wrench handel, No amount of weight pulling down would un screw the gland nut. This was the trick that did it. I had a cherry Picker. I turned the pipe wrench where lifting up turned it counter clockwise. The cylinder was still on the backhoe with the boom extended . Hooking the hook on the cherry picker on the open end of the cheater pipe gave me a lot of power lifting pressure on the bar, much more than I could have ever applied pulling down with even 10 people and a very long cheater bar, it was a 1 ton lift so I was applying almost 2000 lbs to unscrew the nut., as I pumped, it almost started to lift the whole boom, but then pop, the nut broke lose. PS make sure the pipe wrench, the cheater bar and the boom hook are all in line parallel with the nut, having it at any angle will just cause it to lose the bite and slip off. I also found a good way to remove the rod from the cylinder. First remove the cylinder and drain the oil from each side. Loop a chain through the eye end of the rod and hook the cherry picker hook to the chain loop, with the arm of the cherry picker extended fully lift the cylinder till the cylinder (hole end) is barely on the ground, Run a pipe or bar under the legs of the cherry picker and through the hole of the cylinder. As you pump the hoist it will lift the cylinder till the pipe through the cyl hole stops it catching on the legs, at that point the rod will start pulling out of the cylinder. As long as the measurement from the bottom of the legs on the cherry picker to it's arm where the rod is chained is loner than double the measurement of the cylinder when it is depressed, your cherry picker will remove it. Using hydraulics is much easier than any kind of manual pulling. Always use the mount on the equipment tractor) to hold the cylinder rod or case when removing nuts, A vise rarely works on hard to remove nuts and trying to remove the rod with one end of the cylinder clamped in a vise is a nightmare unless your table is bolted down in concrete..
wouldnt a torch have solved a lot of this? we dont like to rosebud either because of collaterial damage, but my hemroids are already a problem! besides the red threadlocker requires heat. is the blue threadlocker recommended?
I had a similar problem and got it off by: = I left the cylinder dead end attached to the hoe. = I put a 48" pipe wrench on the gland that just caught the exposed 3/8 or 1/2" material of the gland. = I then put a large cheater (2" pipe about 16 ft. long on the end of the 48" pipe wrench and just let it hang. = I then took a propane torch and heated the cylinder tube not the gland (not very hot) The weight of the 48 and cheater broke the glad free. I also tried and ruined a spanner and the 48 by itself wouldn't work.
That sounds like the same couple of videos I made before this one, except that method also didn’t work, but I tried it. I think these old machines just have really stuck together cylinders. And the design doesn’t lend itself to an easy disassembly. I hope my vid and comments like these help people find a way without having to take it to the shop for $100/hr+. IT CAN BE DONE👍
My trusty air hammer always seems to do the trick if it doesn’t budge the first try a little heat and then get back to work I’m currently working a lift cylinder on a d8 fairly good sized cylinder but that air hammer always seems to get me out of a bind.
Careful with that Pipe Wrench while loosening the Gland, you don't wanna impact the Rod Chrome...unless you have a Chrome Tank to Re-Chrome it with lol.
580 boom cylinder . Tried all the stuff - Fail. Finally used long jack and gland wrench on one side, pipe wrench and F250 on the other (via tow chain and a half ton of gravel in the bed). Got the pipe wrench to breaking point then jack did it.
Yeah been there. The struggle is real! I have a vid a few before this one called stubborn cylinder removal or something. Went through something very similar
Was the tube gulling the cause of the bleed off? My 555 outrigger does that I just got a seal kit. Hoping mine isn’t that bad. I see pipe wrench marks on it like someone’s been in it before. Good video by the way. Would have liked to see you turn the new pin.
I want to know how much torque was required to break your vice!? I recently rebuilt a case 580 loader lifter cylinder. Got the gland off okay but the piston bolt was like yours. Took it to a local heavy mechanic and he used a 1" drive impact wrench and even then it was tough. (He didn't charge me. Gotta LOVE living in small-town U.S.A.!)Thing is, the torque spec on that bolt is only 210-240 lbs, so it shouldn't be that difficult. The problem is the red tread locker. Heat is required for removal. I have 2 more cylinders to rebuild, so why not remove the piston seals and heat the bolt to 500 degrees? Has anyone tried this?
Sometimes locktite is an issue heat the piss out of the then try buzzing it off with an impact of that dint work take it to a hydraulic shop and they’ll have a torque bench
Do you have a place you can buy the repack kit? How much is the kit from the dealer? Can you afford to bring it in if you don’t have all the tools to do it, or are you willing to buy all the tools for future builds? Have you rebuilt one before? Lots of ways to look at that question. Doing it yourself can end up costing more if you don’t have all the tools and still need to get the parts from the dealer
Hi man time good job , i have similar problem with my mitzy bd2e dozer lift cylinders . Only one of them has bent rod and i will not disassemble them until i know how to straighten the rod so i am interested to know how you straightened yours ? I only have a small press. Shane downunder.
Shane I used a 20 ton H-frame press and it struggled to get the shaft straight. I would recommend larger than 20 ton if possible. You block up either side of the bend and press through the apex of the bend. Then check with a straight edge and roll on a flat surface. A super heavy duty hydraulic tube bender might work also but be careful and best of luck
lightly torch the tube? I just had a cylinder where one of the rings came partially out of its seat and wedged. Every quarter turn was a bear all the way out.
No hydraulic cylinder that I know of has a bleeder. The manuals say to “exercise” the cylinders several times to bleed out any air and it does work. Best to let the machine set for a while after though. The oil needs time to settle out the air too
The hydraulic reservoir is the bleeder in that case. Any air in the system rises to the top of the reservoir which has a breather cap! the system is fully closed after the pump. this is alsow why the manuel suggests to exercise the cylinder. That just cycles all the air into the reservoir but you have to be carefull, without priming the cyclinder there is air which is compressable and is a big trouble maker. same goes for almost all hydraulic systems (hydrostatic drive for example) just cycle the oil after replacing or repairing the hydrostat and your good to go. Cheers and greetings from germany
I’ve watched a bunch of his videos before starting my cylinders and I felt the “as found, bent, and leaking on a 40 yr old machine full repair” was missing. But hoped I could fill that gap for the average shade tree guy. He made it look way to easy. I haven’t had one like his but hope there will be one. Lol
Hi my youtube family i need some help.i have a terex 860sb with leaking cylinders and i cant find no seal kit for it .can you all help me find or tell me what other brands are compatable
I would try and find a local tractor dealership and ask them for seals or where they get their seals. Then take your old seals there and get them sized for your cylinder. That’s how I found my place
With the machine off and the cylinder disconnected pins or laying on the ground not holding pressure, you can loosen the fittings. Do it slowly and there shouldn’t be much if any pressure
@@Man-Time ok thank you. Anytime I’m breaking hydraulic lines free I always try to do it as slow and gently as possible. I never had a line explode in my face but I always had the fear.
That’s a tough one. Probably lots of things. I’m not a good you tuber when I get pissed things aren’t going together well. Sorry about that. I have a few other vids on hydraulic cylinders that may help you
funny to see ,, it's not easy if you don't know how to separate a cylinder stuck in the nut .. the key is heat and very solid clamping of cylinder .. i have made 1000 cylinder much larger than yours .. they can be hard to separate , 95% is technique and experience
I feel sorry for you, you have the same Murphys law that happens with me. One thing I learned is, if it is possible to losen the gland nut while the cylinder is still on the tractor, it is much easier that way, a vise is the hard way unless you have a strong vice mounted to a metal table bolted to the floor, not many people have that. For a tractor a 1/2" drive air impact driver is not heavy duty enough, I bought a 1 inch drive impact like they use on big rigs, it was about $134.00 on ebay and got some reducing adapters at Harbor freight so I can drive 3/4 or 1/2 inch drive sockets. It gets the job done for the nut on the end of the rod. Also sometimes with anything that is stuck or rusted , heating the part you want to turn till it's red hot with a torch brakes the bond, if your replacing the rubber anyway it does not matter if it gets toasted. Once you got the rod out of the cylinder, you could have attached the rod to the tractor cylinder mount and had a good support for it. My problem has been once I get the gland out, getting the rod out of the cylinder has been difficult , I found if the rod moves freely applying air pressure to one end of the cylinders hydraulic fitting will sometimes blow the rod out, but you need to make sure it can't hit concrete or fall because it will do damage to it. The funny thing about these cylinders is the gland has an outer O ring seal and an inner seal pack of cup seals, the gland nut only needs to be tightened enough till it compresses the gland cup seals, once the nut hits the metal face of the gland, or metal hits metal, , the seals has been made meaning it does no good to crank it hard to tighten it because the seal was achieved with the compression of the rubber. It just needs to be snug tight once it bottoms against the gland, no need for a cheater or huge pipe wrench. Seems too many people have no idea of the mechanics of the sealing. They think the tighter the nut, the better the seal, but that is not true because the seal is rubber being compressed, not steel against steel making the seal like with tapered pipe fittings, flare or compression fittings. It sucks working on things someone else did wrong, that is why the nuts are so hard to remove sometimes, someone thought the tighter the nut the better the seal, not true with cylinder seals, If the cup seals aren't compressing enough to seal, shims are used, but once metal hits metal, tightening further beyond snug is a mistake and can expand the gland making it stick in the cylinder, making it hell for the next guy to get out. That next guy always seems to be me.
Man after seeing this video I have so much more respect for people that rebuild hydraulic cylinders. Seems like everything is torqued to 1000 ft/lbs haha. Good work man and also the patience you have is crazy I would’ve been throwing tools left and right if something didn’t come undone relatively soon.
The beauty of editing makes all the cursing and tool throwing go away. 😂. This was a pretty typical farm repair though. I get more upset having to drive into town for a tool I need, but the patience is a skill I’ve grown into
Welcome to Man Time!
Yup, I admire these guys that calmly stay with it. I throw shit, cuss, feel sorry for myself, cuss the world, think about moving to a 1-room cabin and try not to hurt myself
I rebuild cylinders for work, its not just everything being tight..the cylinders that come for repair are typically covered and sealed in everything from cow shit to concrete... thats always a joy
Specs often call for RED loctite, which requires heat to release that end bolt. Ask me how I know, Lol. Candid and fairly complete video of the process. Excellent video, thanks!
Thanks for sharing! I'm about to get to work on a leaking cylinder and this and other videos sure helped!
Chances are pretty good that the down time wouldn't have changed had you taken the cylinder in. Progress is pretty slow anywhere ya go. No large quantities of blood or fingers missing. Good job!
Man, you are a freaking beast! Amazing one man show.
Much appreciated!
I rebuild cylinders for a living I got a 1in drive impact with 4 in sockets and still have to use the torch some days
Thanks for sharing the secret sauce! These old cylinders are a pain. Keep up the good work👍
some real ingenuity in improvising tools to make it all work. Thanks for some ideas.
... and of all things I blew a tilt cylinder seal yesterday!
I'll have to have someone do mine (disabled) but I really appreciate the videos on your 555.
Dang that’s a tough break man. Hopefully the bill for the fix isn’t too bad. I’ve found hydraulic cylinder shops are cheaper than at new holland.
Awesome. Thanks for learning us up
Thanks for posting. Keep up the good work brother!
Heat that bolt head till it’s dull red. It has red lock tight on it and you need to melt it to let the bolt move.
Thanks for making the video. I learned a few tips. 👍🏼
Yes sir. That’s why we do it👍
I had to do seals on one not long ago had same problem getting it to loosen I just heated it with torches then used pipe wrench worked great and didnt have to risk damage beating it off
great video, i enjoyed watching !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Use one of the outrigger bottom pivots as a vise
awesome video brother
Good job man 👍🏼
Great Job on a pathologically designed gland nut that needs to be 2x more material thicker for the torque required to disassemble. Some castlations are called for too. "They're all designed like that" is NOT ok
My solution removing the stuck gland nut factory installed on a cylinder never serviced in over 50 years.
I have a Ford Construction model backhoe I needed to rebuild the boom lift and curl cylinder . On one cylinder the nut was so tight it was impossible to break lose. I found something that works very well.
Since my Nut has notches in it for a special tool that I did not have, it was going to be hard to grab it, I had a 3 ft pipe wrench but did not want to chew up the cast iron nut.
I had some 6" pipe so I sliced a piece the width of the nut and cut it to bend to fit the OD of the nut and with space for it to go on over the rod.
I cut some pieces of 1/4" steel plate to fit the notchs in the nut and welded the pieces to the inside of the ring as they sat in the notches for positioning. That gave me a protective steel cover for the nut that grabbed it and protected it from the pipe wrench cutting or crushing it.
I had to run several beads of welds on the outside of the pipe ring to get the pipe wrench to bite it. I put the pipe wrench on my ring and used a 4 ft cheater pipe over the pipe wrench handel, No amount of weight pulling down would un screw the gland nut.
This was the trick that did it. I had a cherry Picker. I turned the pipe wrench where lifting up turned it counter clockwise. The cylinder was still on the backhoe with the boom extended . Hooking the hook on the cherry picker on the open end of the cheater pipe gave me a lot of power lifting pressure on the bar, much more than I could have ever applied pulling down with even 10 people and a very long cheater bar, it was a 1 ton lift so I was applying almost 2000 lbs to unscrew the nut., as I pumped, it almost started to lift the whole boom, but then pop, the nut broke lose. PS make sure the pipe wrench, the cheater bar and the boom hook are all in line parallel with the nut, having it at any angle will just cause it to lose the bite and slip off.
I also found a good way to remove the rod from the cylinder. First remove the cylinder and drain the oil from each side. Loop a chain through the eye end of the rod and hook the cherry picker hook to the chain loop, with the arm of the cherry picker extended fully lift the cylinder till the cylinder (hole end) is barely on the ground, Run a pipe or bar under the legs of the cherry picker and through the hole of the cylinder. As you pump the hoist it will lift the cylinder till the pipe through the cyl hole stops it catching on the legs, at that point the rod will start pulling out of the cylinder.
As long as the measurement from the bottom of the legs on the cherry picker to it's arm where the rod is chained is loner than double the measurement of the cylinder when it is depressed, your cherry picker will remove it. Using hydraulics is much easier than any kind of manual pulling.
Always use the mount on the equipment tractor) to hold the cylinder rod or case when removing nuts, A vise rarely works on hard to remove nuts and trying to remove the rod with one end of the cylinder clamped in a vise is a nightmare unless your table is bolted down in concrete..
Sound advice Mel! It takes a lot to engineer a solution and if someone is looking for another method yours sounds like it worked out good!
wouldnt a torch have solved a lot of this? we dont like to rosebud either because of collaterial damage, but my hemroids are already a problem! besides the red threadlocker requires heat. is the blue threadlocker recommended?
I had a similar problem and got it off by:
= I left the cylinder dead end attached to the hoe.
= I put a 48" pipe wrench on the gland that just caught the exposed 3/8 or 1/2" material of the gland.
= I then put a large cheater (2" pipe about 16 ft. long on the end of the 48" pipe wrench and just let it hang.
= I then took a propane torch and heated the cylinder tube not the gland (not very hot)
The weight of the 48 and cheater broke the glad free. I also tried and ruined a spanner and the 48 by itself wouldn't work.
That sounds like the same couple of videos I made before this one, except that method also didn’t work, but I tried it. I think these old machines just have really stuck together cylinders. And the design doesn’t lend itself to an easy disassembly. I hope my vid and comments like these help people find a way without having to take it to the shop for $100/hr+. IT CAN BE DONE👍
My trusty air hammer always seems to do the trick if it doesn’t budge the first try a little heat and then get back to work I’m currently working a lift cylinder on a d8 fairly good sized cylinder but that air hammer always seems to get me out of a bind.
The new milwaukee fuel high torque cordless impact is what you want. If i hear right they will do 1200 foot pounds no problem. Expensive but worth it
Careful with that Pipe Wrench while loosening the Gland, you don't wanna impact the Rod Chrome...unless you have a Chrome Tank to Re-Chrome it with lol.
Hey! Get yourself a chain vice and a big pipe wrench and you’ll be set
Most fun ive had all day. gonna do the other side?
Glad to hear it! I have a few more videos before this one doing the other cylinder. It’s a chore
"Welcome to Man Ti-"
LOL! The cylinder rebuild was easier than the video editing, and more enjoyable!
580 boom cylinder . Tried all the stuff - Fail. Finally used long jack and gland wrench on one side, pipe wrench and F250 on the other (via tow chain and a half ton of gravel in the bed). Got the pipe wrench to breaking point then jack did it.
Yeah been there. The struggle is real! I have a vid a few before this one called stubborn cylinder removal or something. Went through something very similar
Was the tube gulling the cause of the bleed off? My 555 outrigger does that I just got a seal kit. Hoping mine isn’t that bad. I see pipe wrench marks on it like someone’s been in it before. Good video by the way. Would have liked to see you turn the new pin.
I think the galling in the piston caused the leak down. The tube may have caused that or vice versa.
I want to know how much torque was required to break your vice!? I recently rebuilt a case 580 loader lifter cylinder. Got the gland off okay but the piston bolt was like yours. Took it to a local heavy mechanic and he used a 1" drive impact wrench and even then it was tough. (He didn't charge me. Gotta LOVE living in small-town U.S.A.!)Thing is, the torque spec on that bolt is only 210-240 lbs, so it shouldn't be that difficult. The problem is the red tread locker. Heat is required for removal. I have 2 more cylinders to rebuild, so why not remove the piston seals and heat the bolt to 500 degrees? Has anyone tried this?
Sometimes locktite is an issue heat the piss out of the then try buzzing it off with an impact of that dint work take it to a hydraulic shop and they’ll have a torque bench
How abt the bottom piston on the lower boom? Could u do it myself? Or should I bring it somewhere? It’s a Ford 755 backhoe
Do you have a place you can buy the repack kit? How much is the kit from the dealer? Can you afford to bring it in if you don’t have all the tools to do it, or are you willing to buy all the tools for future builds? Have you rebuilt one before? Lots of ways to look at that question. Doing it yourself can end up costing more if you don’t have all the tools and still need to get the parts from the dealer
Hi man time good job , i have similar problem with my mitzy bd2e dozer lift cylinders . Only one of them has bent rod and i will not disassemble them until i know how to straighten the rod so i am interested to know how you straightened yours ? I only have a small press. Shane downunder.
Shane I used a 20 ton H-frame press and it struggled to get the shaft straight. I would recommend larger than 20 ton if possible. You block up either side of the bend and press through the apex of the bend. Then check with a straight edge and roll on a flat surface. A super heavy duty hydraulic tube bender might work also but be careful and best of luck
Thanks for advise , gives me confidence to rebuild even if i take it to someone with appropriate press.
lightly torch the tube? I just had a cylinder where one of the rings came partially out of its seat and wedged. Every quarter turn was a bear all the way out.
I’ll be doing some of the loader cylinders this winter. I feel like they won’t be any easier
very gud
Sir any idea about long cylinders boring technology
after rebuild its dry of hydraulic fluid, just cycling it like that purges the air and fills it with fluid? i assumed they had a bleeder somewhere.
No hydraulic cylinder that I know of has a bleeder. The manuals say to “exercise” the cylinders several times to bleed out any air and it does work. Best to let the machine set for a while after though. The oil needs time to settle out the air too
The hydraulic reservoir is the bleeder in that case. Any air in the system rises to the top of the reservoir which has a breather cap! the system is fully closed after the pump. this is alsow why the manuel suggests to exercise the cylinder. That just cycles all the air into the reservoir but you have to be carefull, without priming the cyclinder there is air which is compressable and is a big trouble maker. same goes for almost all hydraulic systems (hydrostatic drive for example) just cycle the oil after replacing or repairing the hydrostat and your good to go. Cheers and greetings from germany
leave cylinder on equipment when breaking everything down. Much easier and wont break vice
I don't think ups has the means of bending that shaft.weld a old pin to your table help break them loose,saves your vise.
That’s a great suggestion to weld a pin to the table!!!
Don't force your work into the outriggers.
That's how they get bent.
Abom 79 y-t channel
Specializes making hydraulic cylinders.
I’ve watched a bunch of his videos before starting my cylinders and I felt the “as found, bent, and leaking on a 40 yr old machine full repair” was missing. But hoped I could fill that gap for the average shade tree guy. He made it look way to easy. I haven’t had one like his but hope there will be one. Lol
my back hurts watching
Hi my youtube family i need some help.i have a terex 860sb with leaking cylinders and i cant find no seal kit for it .can you all help me find or tell me what other brands are compatable
I would try and find a local tractor dealership and ask them for seals or where they get their seals. Then take your old seals there and get them sized for your cylinder. That’s how I found my place
If you got some time, you can come do mine. LOL
I’ve got another cylinder rebuild video coming soon. If you enjoy suffering it is another good one👍
Easy little project hahaha
So extend the cylinder all the way out I was afraid of the hydraulic pressure. So you just bleed it off?
With the machine off and the cylinder disconnected pins or laying on the ground not holding pressure, you can loosen the fittings. Do it slowly and there shouldn’t be much if any pressure
The cylinder doesn’t have to be extended. The cylinder I was taking apart had a bent shaft and had the gland bound up
@@Man-Time ok thank you. Anytime I’m breaking hydraulic lines free I always try to do it as slow and gently as possible. I never had a line explode in my face but I always had the fear.
What move did you hide with your back?
That’s a tough one. Probably lots of things. I’m not a good you tuber when I get pissed things aren’t going together well. Sorry about that. I have a few other vids on hydraulic cylinders that may help you
Lmfao. I gave up on having a vise they always end the same way urs did.
What type lubricant used to slide seal onto shaft
I use zoom spout. Just a light oil
Don’t know if was bent before they shipped it or if UPS bent it? You’ve got to be kidding yourself thinking that 1 3/4 inch shaft got bent by UPS!!
I bet UPS broke the vise also
I always thought the Ford 555 was a junk machine , from the transmission issues alone
RIP bench vise
1320. 1326 about look for Scooby-Doo villan in window left of guy talking.
that one must been under salt water
IKR! It was good and stuck
Time is money total your cost and time
250.00hr it would be done 5hrs total. New part or go home
This should be a $250--$400 job + $100 in parts.
U could of used air to extend the cylinder 🤷♂️
Hey have you ever heard of a TORCH!! Put some heat on it "save a gland"
I may have edited out the torching but in the bench footage you can see the torch. It didn’t help much. This one was really stuck
funny to see ,, it's not easy if you don't know how to separate a cylinder stuck in the nut .. the key is heat and very solid clamping of cylinder .. i have made 1000 cylinder much larger than yours .. they can be hard to separate , 95% is technique and experience
Please, do not stand next to the boom while operating.
haha ha
Hmmm. . It doesn't look that easy!
Must have just been the camera angle🤣
I feel sorry for you, you have the same Murphys law that happens with me. One thing I learned is, if it is possible to losen the gland nut while the cylinder is still on the tractor, it is much easier that way, a vise is the hard way unless you have a strong vice mounted to a metal table bolted to the floor, not many people have that.
For a tractor a 1/2" drive air impact driver is not heavy duty enough, I bought a 1 inch drive impact like they use on big rigs, it was about $134.00 on ebay and got some reducing adapters at Harbor freight so I can drive 3/4 or 1/2 inch drive sockets. It gets the job done for the nut on the end of the rod. Also sometimes with anything that is stuck or rusted , heating the part you want to turn till it's red hot with a torch brakes the bond, if your replacing the rubber anyway it does not matter if it gets toasted. Once you got the rod out of the cylinder, you could have attached the rod to the tractor cylinder mount and had a good support for it.
My problem has been once I get the gland out, getting the rod out of the cylinder has been difficult , I found if the rod moves freely applying air pressure to one end of the cylinders hydraulic fitting will sometimes blow the rod out, but you need to make sure it can't hit concrete or fall because it will do damage to it.
The funny thing about these cylinders is the gland has an outer O ring seal and an inner seal pack of cup seals, the gland nut only needs to be tightened enough till it compresses the gland cup seals, once the nut hits the metal face of the gland, or metal hits metal, , the seals has been made meaning it does no good to crank it hard to tighten it because the seal was achieved with the compression of the rubber. It just needs to be snug tight once it bottoms against the gland, no need for a cheater or huge pipe wrench. Seems too many people have no idea of the mechanics of the sealing. They think the tighter the nut, the better the seal, but that is not true because the seal is rubber being compressed, not steel against steel making the seal like with tapered pipe fittings, flare or compression fittings.
It sucks working on things someone else did wrong, that is why the nuts are so hard to remove sometimes,
someone thought the tighter the nut the better the seal, not true with cylinder seals, If the cup seals aren't compressing enough to seal, shims are used, but once metal hits metal, tightening further beyond snug is a mistake and can expand the gland making it stick in the cylinder, making it hell for the next guy to get out. That next guy always seems to be me.
You got it right on man. Murphy is alive and well on my farm!