How To: Terminate a Shielded Cat6/6A External Ground Pass Through RJ45 Connector
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- čas přidán 14. 03. 2021
- Bar none, one of the most challenging Ethernet cable terminations in the world is the shielded Cat6 or Cat6A RJ45 connector. The challenges include getting thick shielded cable to fit inside the RJ45 connector and bonding the cable shield to the metal housing. Not a trivial task!
Luckily, you have Don who is here to make it all completely stress-free for you!
For more information on this topic, check out our blog: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable...
If you found this video helpful let us know in the comments and subscribe for more!
Video Time Codes:
[0:11-1:19] - Pass Through RJ45 Features
[1:19-3:05] - Stripping Wire and Peeling Shield
[3:05-5:00] - Removing Spline, Untwisting & Straightening Wires
[5:00-5:28] - Prepping Plug
[5:28-6:51] - Proper Wire Sequence & Flush Cut
[6:51-7:35] - Attaching RJ45
[7:35-8:45] - Ovalization & Finishing Attachment
[8:45-9:45] - Termination
[9:45-12:00] - Crimping RJ45 & Double Checking Work
trueCABLE Products Featured in this Video:
Cat6/6A Pass Through RJ45 Shielded: www.truecable.com/collections...
Cat6A Riser Shielded: www.truecable.com/products/ca...
All-in-one Crimp & Termination Tool: www.truecable.com/products/al...
Flush Cutter: www.truecable.com/products/fl...
All trueCABLE Products: www.truecable.com/collections...
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Not just a good Cat6 crimping tutorial, but a FANTASTIC tutorial period. Wonderfully done. I bought the tool just because I liked the video so much.
We are thrilled to hear that this was useful. We appreciate you taking the time to watch our videos and for supporting our business!
Thank you. This was the first video i found on grounding a STP cable and it was very good
It's our pleasure. We are glad it helped. Thanks for following along.
Best guide on the entire CZcams. Thanks.
Thanks, Bartek! We really do our best. Keep in mind that our YT videos are just a supplement to an overall written blog with even more detailed information. The written blog for this particular video is found here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/how-to-terminate-a-shielded-cat6-6a-external-ground-pass-through-rj45-connector.
Really well explained, thank you for this!
Thanks for leaving a comment! We appreciate the feedback.
This video was immediately helpful for using these products.
Thanks for the great feedback!
Professionally executed and very well explained.
Thanks, Stephen! We are glad you enjoyed the content. This particular 8P8C demands a lot of extra attention when terminating, so detailed explanations are in order.
Fantastic tutorial. You are a very good communicator.
Thank you!
Perfect. Thank you so much!
Hello and thanks for your kind words! We are glad you found the content useful.
dont cut your wires straight across prior to plug insertion, cut them at an angle and it helps guide them into the plug in the correct order.
Hello James! That sounds like a technique worth trying out. I have never had issues with the straight across cut, but I will give that a shot. Thanks for sharing tips!
I use the diagonal cut. It seems a little easier overall.
I always do this
Thank you This video helpful
Glad to hear this!
Good to see this
Thanks! We are glad you found it helpful.
you do good work
Thanks! We appreciate your compliment.
Nice and clean!!!
Thanks! We appreciate you tuning in and watching.
Good job thanks
Of course, that is what we are here for!
Very good
Thank you! We are glad to hear you found this video useful.
Thanks! We are glad you found it helpful.
1: It’s a pain but strip the jacket back farther than normal passthrus. It will help getting started since the feed ramps are at the last 1/8 inch of a 1” deep connector.
2: cut the wires at a very slight angle to assist as well.
3: Support your wires with your off hand while crimping and tug lightly pulling the wire tighter into the connector. That crimping bar can eject the jacket back and mess up the crimp. Don’t rely on it. Also the conductors can fold over and shear instead of slice and can cause shorts on the outside of the connector if not cut perfectly flush. This was shown in your video when OW dangled. It wasn’t a clean cut, you said it was okay when it isn’t.
4: absolutely wrap the grounding messenger around the collar base twice then around the foil for 1/4” or 3 turns. Crimp the collar over the foil and wire. Trim foil past collar. I’m not sure if there was a model change but my remaining true cable pass thru connectors do not have metal on the inside of the connector. The foil being so close to the pins would block noise on the conductors but will do nothing for making a continuous ground link from the metal tabs on the inside of the port that touch the outside of the connector to the inner foil and to the other side. The messenger also adds rigidity to the connector if you wrap the collar first. Pressure goes to the collar instead of pins. The crimp will slide on the slick true cable cat6a. These things are expensive, harden your connections and maintain continuity if you’re actually concerned about static (ESD).
The rest of the tutorial is great and the unshielded video was good but with the same complaints of crimping style.
I was a bit unclear on the lack of continuity. If the messenger wire is under the collar it would be a continuous connection but only if the collar stays tight and on top of the wire. Bending could cause it to shift out of place and I’d rather not leave it to chance. Your method of leaving the foil and wire forward of the collar would break continuity though still allow RF shielding into the port.
Hello SealTech! We appreciate your tips and perspective on this. Thanks!
You guys are using verbage beyond my understanding hopefully you can help me out. If i accidentally (because this is new to me and i don't know it's supposed to stay there) rip the foil off so that it's only inside the plastic protection (no longer exposed where it can make contact with the rj45 connector I'm about to crimp on) does it really matter? What would actually could actually happen real world?
And how tight is the crimp supposed to be with the metal tabs that go down at the end(at the bottom of the rj45 connector)? They seem very easy to bend right back out away from the cable when i try to crimp them. I can crimp a cat 5e cable no problem, this stuff though is new to me and i have no one to ask irl about how to do it correctly
شكرا جزيلا .كان ذلك مفيدا جدا
GREAT...
Thank you! Please let us know what else you would like to see!
Great teaching video. Can you advise when it’s necessary to fold back the drain wire versus snipping it odd at the jacket edge? I see some other Tech’s keep just enough to have it crimped underneath the metal tabs. Thanks.
Hello Michael! There are several ways you can terminate the cable shield to the hardware. Fold back the shield only, fold back the shield with the drain wire in conjunction, coil up the drain wire under the metal ground tab, or my new favorite is to REMOVE the cable shield (retain the drain wire) and then fold back and wrap the drain wire around the jacket. Then you tack the drain wire down with conductive adhesive copper fabric strips. We sell those strips on our website. You can also use conductive adhesive copper foil tape as well, but it rips pretty easily! Let us know if you have any further questions!
Great video!
Quick question though! I should be looking to use a shielded pair cable for installing a cable within a wall, terminating it to a RJ45 wall plate right? Looking to do this for an office space
Hello! When terminating in-wall permanent cable, you should definitely be using the keystone > patch panel approach (known as "rack to jack"). RJ45 8P8C plugs should only be used on solid copper Ethernet cable in limited cases. You are definitely thinking correctly...run your shielded Ethernet cable to shielded keystone jacks at the work space side and back to a patch panel at the telecom room side.
Cáp cat6 suy hao truyền dẫn bị thấp không đạt thì nguyên nhân là do yếu tố nào? bạn có thể giúp mình cách khắc phục được không?
Apologies for what I'm sure is a basic question. I'm running some of your CAT6 shielded cable (F/UTP) from POE cameras to an NVR. Where does the actual grounding take place? Is it when this metal RJ45 connector brings the foil shielding into the NVR and eventually into the wall socket the NVR is powered by? If not, how is it grounded? If I understand correctly, the shielding in the shielded cable is useless if it's not grounded and I may as well use unshielded cable in the first place. Any assistance is appreciated.
Hello! Yup, the cable shield would bond at the NVR to ground. This is assuming, of course, that your NVR has a three-prong power plug with an internal AC power supply. If not, you would need to terminate the cable to shielded keystone jacks and mount them in a shielded patch panel. The shielded patch panel would then be bonded to ground, which you can do with our truePLUG bonding extension adapter accessory very easily. This is actually the PREFERRED method anyway, since you want a Category 6 rated keystone somewhere in the channel. You could then use unshielded Cat6 patch cords from the keystones in the patch panel to the NVR, and we also sell those patch cords. Using unshielded patch cords would help protect your NVR from any surges since bonding to ground would occur at the patch panel first. You are correct that shielded cable that is not bonded to ground may as well be unshielded cable, and using unshielded in the first place may have been wiser if you opt to not ground it.
Excellent tutorial! I'm very much interested into these connectors, but I have a Klein Tools pass-through crimper (VDV226-005). Do these connectors work only with truecable crimper or expected to work with other brands?
Hello Shahedur! Good question. The Klein VDV226-005 lacks the external ground collar crimp cavities necessary to properly attach the plug. You would need a separate external ground collar crimp tool, but that will cost nearly as much as a new all-in-one crimp tool like ours. Secondarily, our all-in-one crimp tool was tweaked during the design phase to give the best results with our line of plugs.
@@trueCABLE would love to know how you ground wall plates. My understanding is that even if the shielded cable is grounded in the terminal, it won't be grounded unless the wall plate jack is grounded.
How do you handle that?
Good video. Just finished literally
100 + cat6a shielded Plenum plugs. Near ends crosstalk was a problem on a couple. My side of course. I was told I need at least one twist on each color which made it slightly difficult. My foil only went as far or a little past first window on plug. Is that why I had crosstalk? Or is it because I didn't have enough twist.? I re-did the failed ones and put like 2 twist on each pair. Foil was in same spot on plug and it passed.
Thanks for the feed back.!!
Hello John! Excessive crosstalk is typically caused by too much untwist at one or more terminations. 1/2" is the maximum amount of untwist but it is hard to visualize. If the cable jacket is pushed into the plug so that it passes the first "window" (actually, that is the strain latch) then you should have met the 1/2" rule. Your issues might have been caused by nicked conductors, which can also show up as excessive crosstalk. Exceeding the bend radius of a cable can show up as excessive crosstalk, too. In other words, it is rather difficult to say what the exact reason was without a Fluke test. FLW file, showing all the diagnostic details.
This tutorial does not show the correct way to ground the shield. He claims multiple times that the shield foil is enough for ground continuity through the jack, but the crimp over a drain wire is the intended way to do it. Don't rely on the foil and interior of the cable, not enough strain relief or reliable connection point. Your issue may well be failure to ground the shield.
Hi.thanks for the tutorial. But I have a question I hope you can answer. Tks.
The arrangement of the 8 wires, Left to Right, are the same, in both the connectors. I use this long cable from the router to the wall socket, the faceplate which has "female-female" at the back and front. That is the standard cable is fixed to the "IN" at the back of the socket, and on the front of the face plate, a shorter cable can be connected when needed to say, a laptop. Now my question is the long cable has the 8 wires arranged as 1 to 8, LEFT to Right. But than on the faceplate wouldnt it have to be reversed, 8 to 1?...if so...e.g ROUTER>>LONG CABLE>>FACEPLATE, BACK, FEMALE. Now if a short cable ethernet connection is needed. And connected to the wall socket, would the connector not be connected as 8 to 1. Or RIGHT to LEFT??... Would the faceplate be giving the wrong connection to the connected gadget. Via a shorter cable to, in this case the laptop. OR IS THE Faceplate has internally switched.Lto R. can anyone help me figure this out pls. Tks.
Thanks for watching our video and for taking the time to respond. The system you are describing consists of a wall plate and a keystone coupler (female-female). If the coupler only connected nearest conductor to nearest conductor, then you would be correct, and each coupler would reverse the order of the conductors and disrupt the channel. However, that is not the way the couplers are made. Each coupler contains a small printed circuit board (PCB) that not only corrects for circuit continuity, but also ensures that the impedances of the cable, coupler, and any other connectors in the channel are matched. We hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions.
I did have one question. How do you ground the keystone end? Or do you even have to? On one end Im using a rj45 jack and a keystone on the other. I am running it underground to a shed. I thought I knew what i was doing util it came to the drain wire.
Hello and great question. The best way to bond the cable shield (often called grounding, which is a bit of a misnomer) to the keystone jack is to fold the cable shield backwards and then wrap the drain wire around the shield. Once you close the keystone jack housing, the inside of the metal neck of the housing makes contact with the folded back shield and drain wire. You would then trim off any excess cable shield from the rear of the housing. We have some blogs and videos regarding shielded keystone jacks (found at our website plus here on CZcams) that detail precisely how to do this.
@@trueCABLE So why there is even drain wire inside?
@@bartoszbaranowski604 the foil has higher resistance and is easily ripped, so the drain wire is there to ensure a low resistance bond throughout the length of the cable. It's better to wrap the drain wire around the foil and crimp over both to get a better bond.
Now imagine having to do a hundred of these.
Hello Ken and thanks for your comment. Indeed, terminating shielded cable is quite a bit more involved than unshielded! Practice makes perfect, and the more you do the faster you get.
Do I need the shielded Cat6 for connecting between HDMI extenders? and needs to be grounded?
Hello! Yes. Considering HDMI is shielded by design, I would also use shielded Ethernet cable and make sure the cabling system is able to drain off to ground.
Are passthrough cables just as good as non passthrough cables? Do the open ends create any extra interference or crosstalk when you start going to Cat 6a or higher cable. I have seen passthrough shielded rj45 plugs being sold to even Cat 7 sized cable. I always worry that with the open ends it might be causing some issues at the higher frequencies. Would be great to Fluke test a passthrough vs non passthrough termination at Cat 6, Cat6a and Cat7.
Hello! You are in luck. I have already used a Fluke DSX-8000 to compare pass-through to non-passthrough RJ45 8P8C performance. The performance is equal. Now, that said, what really matters is FITMENT of the cable to the plug. If you get the fitment wrong, then you will have issues with connectivity and performance. The open ends do not create any issues assuming they are properly flush cut during termination. I wrote a detailed blog about this here: www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/terminating-pass-through-rj45-connectors-onto-solid-copper-ethernet-cable-a-really-bad-idea and I recommend you read it. Also, stagger style plugs do make a difference with Cat6A termination (does not matter whether they are pass-through or not). The stagger helps with crosstalk and increases Cat6A performance headroom. It is quite the nuanced subject, which we address in multiple articles on our Cable Academy.
@@trueCABLE Thank you for the informative information. I had to find out the hard way that just using a pin continuity tester is not enough for some applications. I had to run an HDMI over Cat7 cable a long distance to carry 4K signals... this is where I learned that crimped connectors are very iffy no matter how good you do your termination, especially for Cat 6a and above. I then moved on to Telegartner MFP8 and finally got everything working. I realized then that if you are not going to certify each termination with a Fluke tester then it is better to use either a keystone jack, then add a certified factory made patch cord, or just use something similar to the MFP8.
@@majdq8 Hello! Yup, you nailed it. For those without advanced testers the best way to go is keystone jacks, field termination plugs, and factory pre-made and pre-tested patch cable for your installation.
@@trueCABLE Actually one other bit of information ... when I tested my crimped Cat 6a connections (and I consider myself extremely proficient crimper as I use copper foil and limit the amount of untwist as much as possible and even use shrink tube) some Cat 6a STP connections performed worse than my Cat 5e crimped connections. Somehow the extra foil and shielding seems to create more interference if some little thing is not done correctly. Meanwhile the field connectors and keystone jacks were 100% perfect every time. That is why I simply don't trust crimped connections for anything over Cat 6.
@@majdq8 Hello again! Absolutely correct. Shielded Cat6A terminations are the most sensitive. By FAR. That is why keystones and field termination plugs are all but required.
what is the name of the tool used to cut the spline? is it wire stripper?
Hello Donatela. The tool is a flush cutter (also called a micro cutter). You can find the link to the product in the video bio!
@trueCABLE I need to run cables for 8 or more POE cameras however the 120v electrical wires are crossing everywhere on the floor of my ceiling. I assume the wires were installed before the ceiling was installed because there is not enough crawlspace for a person to fit so I will have to fish through the network cables with some effort. I can try to run externally as much as possible but will inevitably have to enter the ceiling space to make reaching the NVR location as tidy as possible. My real concern is since it will be most impossible to manually maneuver the network cables to avoid the 120v cables and they will cross paths, is there any benifit of me spending the extra money for dual shielded or (S/FTP Cat 6A) cable with braided sheild and additional foil shield around each pair of conductors OR will simple (FTP Cat5) foil shielding around all the conductors be enough to resist the EMI from the 120v cables ?
Hello! I understand the situation. In your case, either F/UTP (overall foil only) or S/FTP (braid + foil individually shielded conductor pairs) will work fine. Considering these are 120V branch circuits, the EMI is not that severe. Obviously, you should use shielded in this case, but a regular overall foil shield (F/UTP) will be fine.
@@trueCABLE Thank you for the guidance, you have saved me some expense and worrying. Much appreciated. Love how easy and informative your videos are, great work.
@@dysan45 Glad we could help!
I am trying to make my satellite dish cable longer. Both ends are special, poe.... No other place has them. So I I have to reuse those. So, when connecting those separate splits on both ends, how do the drain wires connect back? Do I connect both again to provide a complete circuit? Or leave the end close to the dish off and ground the other end to the house ground? Or??
Hello J.L. You can use a shielded Cat6 splice block. They are available to buy online. This will provide a high-quality and stable connection between the two segments and will allow your Ethernet cable shield/drain wire continuity as well. Just be aware that these splice blocks are not weatherproof so you will need to weather-seal the block. 3M Mastic tape or a weatherproof enclosure of some kind will work.
@@trueCABLE ok, but do I connect the drain wire to both the split areas? Just as with the other wires? I understand the block will connect it for continuity, but I've when you use the blocks to ground the one split to the house ground and leave the other not connected due to a possible potential?
If the transmission loss of cat6 cable is low, what is the cause? can you help me how to fix it?
Hello! There can be various reasons for poor performance. Please take a look at this blog and video which will detail what the issue(s) can be www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/why-is-the-network-running-slow
5:27 Cable sequences
you don't need a rj45 boot/cap for this type of connector?
Hello KisameSenpai. You can use one, yes, but the design of the plug will not allow in-line boots to be used. You have to use the "slip on" variety that would render it difficult or impossible to use with high-density equipment ports. The thickness added is too much, and one will not fit next to another due to spacing issues. Therefore, the strain relief is provided at the ground collar, and that is why the collar must be crimped perfectly every time with the right tool.
Would this method work with cat 8 shielding?
Hello! Physical termination of the cable shield depends on how the cable is constructed, not the Category. Category defines performance, not how the cable is physically constructed. Cat8, per ANSI/TIA, can also be unshielded. How you would bond the cable shield to the hardware depends on your individual cable. Hope this helps!
Will the RJ45 PLUG fit the cat5 and cat6 cable?
Hello Lee. Whether any one RJ45 plug will fit a particular cable has to do with fitment and not Category. The two critical dimensions are insulated conductor diameter and cable jacket OD. Without that information, it is impossible to properly select a compatible plug.
Is there a reason to use or not use a rubber boot over the connectors?
Hello John! Normally you would with the in-line cut-to-fit locking strain relief boots, but this type of connector requires boots that fit OVER the connector plug housing. This can cause issues with plugging them into high-density switch ports. Of course, you should not be making patch cords out of solid copper and plugging them directly into a switch anyway, but some people try to. If you are plugging this type of termination into a device directly, like a TV or PC you can likely get away with using a boot and we do sell them. Hope this helps!
Have you ever seen any shorts related to POE with the flush cuts at the front of the connector? With pass through connectors like this, with a flush font cut, the tips of the cables are technically exposed and may short out. Just curious... thanks!
Hello Michael! I have not seen shorting issues related to PoE with passthrough plugs that are PROPERLY FIT and fully flush cut during termination. The shorting issues you allude to can occur with any style of plug, passthrough or not, due to too loose of fitment or simply terminating wrong. A lot of DIY installers have gotten into putting RJ45 8P8C plugs onto Ethernet with the advent of the easier passthrough style plugs and therefore the reported issues in the field increased due to more people performing terminations incorrectly overall--a mirage effect. If everything is fit correctly and the conductors are fully flush cut, you are good to go.
I install and service security cameras among other things and have had to replace many pass through connectors due to what you just mentioned.
It's not the pass through connector that is the issue - it is technicians who do not maintain their tools. When the cutting blade gets dull, which happens quickly, it shreds the ends rather than flush cuts and causes problems - it isn't always immediate. Also moisture can be an issue so these things should only be used in controlled environments and not for outdoors or POE applications.
This is from examining the connectors I have replaced to fix problems.
@@donlackie5752 Hello Don! Thanks for sharing your experiences. Yes, I would agree that a dull flush cut blade can definitely cause a problem too. That is why we offer replacements for the flush cut blade on our RJ45 All In One Crimp and Termination Tool. I have not seen moisture cause any issues using pass through RJ45 connectors with outdoor PoE applications, however. I would think that any unprotected RJ45 (pass through or not) would pose a corrosion risk outdoors if it were unprotected. Note that I typically deploy Ubiquiti equipment where the cable and connector pass through a water-tight silicon gland as the device is being installed. The resultant installation does not leave the termination exposed to water vapor or any elements that could cause an issue. After more than a decade I have yet to replace any.
@@donlackie5752 Hello Don! Thanks for sharing your experiences. Yes, I would agree that a dull flush cut blade can definitely cause a problem too. That is why we offer replacements for the flush cut blade on our RJ45 All In One Crimp and Termination Tool. I have not seen moisture cause any issues using pass through RJ45 connectors with outdoor PoE applications, however. I would think that any unprotected RJ45 (pass through or not) would pose a corrosion risk outdoors if it were unprotected. Note that I typically deploy Ubiquiti equipment where the cable and connector pass through a water-tight silicon gland as the device is being installed. The resultant installation does not leave the termination exposed to water vapor or any elements that could cause an issue. After more than a decade I have yet to replace any.
@@trueCABLE Problem comes with techs who are just collecting a paycheck. They don't care about quality, just getting the job signed off.
Our cameras have a connector similar, but much smaller, than the weatherproofing on the ubiquiti step down converter. These are generally in a back box that are more or less weatherproof, depending on age.
So it comes down to the tech and his attention to detail and his tools.
The problem techs perceive pass thru's as easier so they jumped on these early on. And, like I stated, I have replaced many of these, not so much for corrosion, but for sloppy work that may have worked initially but over time, with the expansion and contraction due to temperatures things move and they will sometimes move the wrong way.
Standard RJ45's can expand and contract all they want without being affected, I've replaced them, of course, but mostly due to corrosion which I agree should not be a problem if the installation is done right
If more techs had to go back and fix their installations they might learn, but too many companies have separate departments so installers never learn
These may work fine for seasoned techs, but new guys need to stick to the standard ones until they gain a bit of competence
As a first timer, this was extremely annoying and hard to do. I ended up stripping the outer cable a bit longer around 3-4 inches and inserting the little wires one by one. Once I did this, it took me 2 minutes and was super easy. Sure, you lose a few inches of more cable than needed, but for me it was definitely worth it
Hello Erman! I fully understand. When I first started terminating Ethernet, I found myself in the exact same position of putting an 8P8C (aka RJ45) onto a thick shielded cable, too. Sounds like you found a solution that worked for you! As long as the termination meets the standards and works, then I say great job!
neat
Thanks for your comment! We are glad you liked the video.
Is it the same with f/ftp cat7 cable termination?
Hello and thanks for your question. The basic process is largely the same. That said, any one individual cable may have differences that require specific different techniques for termination. Some shielded cables have individually shielded pairs, for example. In addition, your specific termination hardware may require a different technique as well. The specifics will, in the final analysis, come down to the brand and style of cable/termination hardware. We hope this helps!
@@trueCABLE Thank you so much! Just couldn't decide whether to buy cat6a or cat7. Now I think I'll choose the cat6a for my LAN.
why did you cut away the drain wire instead of wrapping it around the cable under the collar?
Hi there! This is a great question. I did this due to the design of the RJ45 plug. The inside rear of the plug is 100% nickel-plated brass, and the ground collar in this situation serves as nothing more than strain relief. With this particular 8P8C plug, you can bond the cable shield in several ways. Another favorite way of mine is to actually cut off the cable shield, wrap the drain wire around the jacket, and then tack it down with our conductive adhesive copper fabric tape. In fact, the latter method is what I recommend these days. No need to deal with folding back the cable shield anymore...rather annoying to deal with most of the time. Hope this helps!
@@trueCABLE it's best practice to use the drain wire for continuity, regardless of what connector you are using. Why not make an updated video and delete this one? I can see a lot of people failing to ground their cables using this tutorial.
@@trueCABLE please make a video showing this updated procedure.
@@velocityacoustics Hello! Lucky for you this is already in progress. You will see the revised blog and video in about two weeks. The new title will be "Slaying the Dragon: RJ45 Termination of Cat6 & Cat6A Shielded Direct Burial Ethernet". Let us know what you think when it comes out!
Yo tengo un cable categoría 7 y conector chapado categoría 7 también y no me va el cable ethernet y el último que grimpe me coje poca señal de que puede ser?
Hola VICE! La razón más probable es que el conector no encaje correctamente en los conductores aislados. Cada conector tiene sus propias tolerancias y debe ajustarse al cable. Al usar conectores RJ45 8P8C, no puede comprar por categoría, ya que no es relevante. El ajuste es. La clave es investigar el diámetro exterior de la cubierta del cable y el diámetro exterior del conductor aislado del cable Cat7. Luego haga una referencia cruzada con el enchufe blindado RJ45 8P8C y vea si puede encontrar uno adecuado. Desafortunadamente, es posible que no pueda encontrar un enchufe que se ajuste, y es posible que su cable Cat7 ni siquiera esté documentado para que pueda elegir. Si ese es el caso, le sugiero que intente conectar ambos extremos de su cable Cat7 a conectores Keystone Cat7 blindados y luego use latiguillos Cat7 blindados.
The drain wire should not be cut but rather folded back with the shield. The purpose of the drain wire is to ensure the shield gets grounded.
Hello Tommy! As it turns out, the way you describe bonding is one a few ways of getting the cable shield bonded and grounded. You can fold just the shield back, remove the foil shield and fold the drain wire back and wrap it around the jacket, remove the the foil shield and fold the drain wire back and wrap it around the jacket while tacking it down with copper conductive adhesive tape, etc. As long as the cable run passes on the Certification test then the cable shield resistance is less than 100 milliohm as required by the standard. Often you see installers fold the shield back AND wrap the drain wire around it to help ensure the standard is met, but this an installation technique only and not found in the standard.
@@trueCABLE I'm not saying it won't work, I'm saying the drain wires specific and only function is to carry the emf/esd to ground. The shielding is there to do just that, shield the inner copper conductors from the emf. Can you use the shield for continuity, yes, but your cable will be a lot more robust/reliable if you terminate it using the specific intended purposes of the components.
@@cheerbeerification wow spot on, I was surprised at cutting off the ground wire, makes sense to wrap it around the cable before the tail clip is pressed unto the cable incl. ground wire, good to know. Interestingly they did it in another video =) czcams.com/video/FJMvxpSuErQ/video.html and with the "trueGROUND External Ground Crimp Tool" czcams.com/video/AwQ_qvEszGU/video.html
Solder the drain to the metal housing.
Hello! You CAN do that, but I do NOT recommend it for the average DIY person or even professional installer. It is all too easy to accidentally damage the cable and/or connection hardware...not to mention the liability issues associated with recommending that sort of method.
Solder to the end of the strain relief before crimping if you want to solder the drain wire, to avoid melting the plastic connector body,
@@ctrlaltdebug Although that sounds like a good idea, the method you propose has a good chance of not working out. The strain relief collar is placed is placed under a great deal of pressure and formed into a circle when crimped to the cable jacket properly. This would likely break the solder. We don't recommend this approach. Instead, we recommend bonding the cable shield to a shielded keystone jack at the switch/head-end of the installation and then mounting the keystone into a shielded toolless patch panel that is already bonded to the ground. A 110 shielded punch-down patch panel that has similarly been bonded to ground would be another recommended approach.
No matter how hard I try i cant get twisted wire through the cate 6 connector
Hello David. You have to untwist and comb out the kinks first. No matter how hard I tried, I would not be able to get a twisted wire through the front of an RJ45 connector either!
We don’t use a pass through connector when using HDMI baluns. We are told it bleeds at the end. So you get video loss. This is what many in the industry say. Have you heard this?
Hello Justice! Interesting! Well, given that this is industry specific advice that I cannot directly refute I would follow it to be safe. That said, I cannot reproduce nor have I seen performance issues with passthrough connectors ASSUMING the fitment is correct--especially on solid copper Ethernet which is not ideal for RJ45 8P8C termination to begin with. It sounds like (and perhaps I am wrong) that somebody had an issue at one time or another with passthrough connector fitment, leading to trouble with performance and proceeded to blame it on all passthrough connectors. What starts off as a single person's experience becomes casual advice to others. The "others" then repeat it and it gets repeated again and again. A year down the road the casual advice has now become inviolate gospel with felony charges resulting for doing otherwise. :>) Long story short, HDMI is not analog and is packetized data just like Ethernet packets. If there was a problem with passthrough connectors in general it would affect all signaling, not just HDMI. I think the issue is more elemental than that, which would be hand terminating RJ45s onto solid copper Ethernet and getting the fitment (or something else) wrong. Just my .02!
How to ground the connection?
Hello Andre! At this end of the connection (the remote PoE device end, for example) you would not bond it to ground. Instead, the "switch end" of the connection needs to be bonded to ground. You accomplish this with a shielded keystone jack mounted in a shielded patch panel that is properly bonded to ground.
At what point did we fire Don? Lol.. I really thought when he folded the mylar back he was gonna use that fancy thing to clamp the foil and internal shield. I personally would have done that then taped it with 88...
Hey Colton! Nobody has fired me yet! I still terminate the back end of shielded 8P8C plugs using our trueGROUND tool to get a nice secure crimp on that ground collar. I prefer it! This is an older video, where I am using the external ground crimp collar cavities on our AIO tool.
@@trueCABLE i was joking thanks for the feedback I'll be looking at that!
This 8c8p plug. Not rj45.
Hello! Yes, technically speaking, the term RJ45 is not correct. This is a 8P8C modular plug. That all said, the term "RJ45" has stuck for some reason and just won't go away. It turns out that when people are looking for information on terminations, they search for "RJ45," and to find us and the information they need, we have to put the term "RJ45" in, or they won't find the information at all (or might get incorrect information as well). Also, newbies don't even know the correct technical term "8P8C" applies and would not understand what it means. I will typically put something like "8P8C aka RJ45" into writing, but I don't always catch myself! We tend to use both terms at trueCABLE so everyone understands what we are talking about.
Bleh, Don makes this looks much easier than it is LOL
Hey Richard! Thanks, but believe me I have my off days too! Also, I have a better procedure I have experimented with that I will be demonstrating for a video in Kansas City, MO next week. It will be a revised video about how to terminate Cat6 & Cat6A Shielded Direct Burial Ethernet (the toughest of the tough). I will impart some best practices, as well.
@@trueCABLE would be interested to see that! Your video did help me install a connector much better! Thanks!
@@Richardsumilang Any time 😎
3:46 A nubbin
Indeed! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Anyone else think this is beyond absurd to be doing it this way in this day and age? Here's a thought, develop a twisted pair that has an alignment point on the cable jacket that you align with a specially made connector. You line up the arrows on both and crimp it. Sure you might have to design the cables so they are flat or something, but that would be a damned site better than rubbing sticks together like this.