Stubborn 6 Volt Cars? Don't convert them...Fix them!
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- čas přidán 3. 11. 2020
- In this video I discuss common problems with 6V automotive electrical systems. Poor starter performance. Simple circuits & schematics. A few tips to keep your 6V engine starting system performing as expected.
I had a 54 Chevrolet with a 6v system and it always cranked kind of slow. There was a battery company in my town that made batteries and I had them make me an 8v battery. I installed that battery in my car and it worked great for many years without changing any gauges or electrical components in the car. I kept the original starter, generator, voltage regulator, radio, and light bulbs in the car. Drove the car many years that way with no problems and the car started great.
Superb explanation --- 12vdc is a bandage for a larger problem. We buy these old vehicles because we like them, but rush to shoehorn them into something they are not. Keep the 6v brothers.
This has to be one of the best videos on this subject that I've seen in years! You explain the system and potential issues to make it so easy to understand. I had someone tell me one time to treat electricity like flowing water which until today, I still didn't fully understand. Now I get it! Thanks again for this!
Craig you made my day. I’m so glad to hear that this helped you understand the subject.
totally agree, even on 12V system, when the vehicule is used on cold climate, replacing the #4 AWG starter cables by #1AWG makes a world of difference when the vehicule is equipped with a 6 or 8 cylinders engine.
Best explanation of a 6V system I've had yet. I have a 1951 Ford F-3 with a positive ground and a 6V system. I've been wanting to upgrade to negative ground and 12V but now, not so much. She's tuff to start sometimes so now I'm going to pull the starter and have it checked. Thank you for your simple tutorial!!!
Hello: I recently watched your video here and want to THANK YOU very much for your tutorial. I have had an old 1948 car for 20 years and it always was very slow to crank with its 6 volt. I even bought a powerful Optima battery but that did not help. It cranked very slowly and I always had to use the choke AND spray some starting fluid in the carb to get it going. Due to your video, I discovered that I had 1 gauge battery cables instead of 2 gauge. I bought new 2 gauge battery cables and the car cranks over quickly and starts right away now with no need for choke or starting fluid! I cannot believe it took me 20 years to solve this problem, but your video showed me the way! Thanks again!
That’s fantastic. Glad to hear you sorted out your problem.
I owned a '53 Dodge B-4-B116 for 30 years, and never changed over the 6V system, nor did I shoehorn in an 8V battery. Adequate gauge on the battery leads, and keep the system in good tune, and she'll fire up OK in cold weather. More than once I've had to start it in subzero weather, which is kind of tricky, but that old tub never once let me down. :)
B3/4’s rule 😁
I always use starting fluid, ❓❓❓
I never use starting fluid. No need. A healthy engine stats without starting fluid. Plus its a little hard on rings. Good chance you’ll end up with broken top piston rings.
@@keithsgarage5831 Well Keith that's what we call freedom of choice in the United States of America, Remember , it was much more colder during the winters back in the 70s ,,6 volt electric system sucks, period, What do really care,I❓❓❓ I rebuilt my engine 1/2 dozen times, With the turbo retrofit I blew out Head gaskets on regular basis, I kept a couple of spares in the trunk, with tool box,Spare battery, and a shovel to dig myself out in the snow with a 12 ft Steel towing chain, needed the weight for traction in the winter snow,
People are Way too Lazy today , alot of people can't even open the hood on their car let alone fix it 👍👍🤣🤣‼️
Very good tips on a 6volt system. I have a '54 Chevy Bel-Air with the original 235 six and Powerglide trans.
I still run the 6volt system, but I installed a 6-volt alternator and the car starts great. Like you said I checked the battery cables which had to be changed and checked all the other electrical connections before I installed the 6-volt alternator. I also installed a 6-volt electric windshield wiper motor/switch. and a modern am/fm/cd radio. I still run points and condenser and everything works just fine!!
I had a 1953 Chrysler Windsor 8 Passenger Sedambulance. It was originally owned by Fairbanks Morse in Beloit, Wisconsin. The car was also pictured in the book 70 Years of Chrysler. It was an awesome car, but I knew I had one chance to start the car, otherwise I had to jump it. One thing that helped was adding an inline electric fuel pump. I put the fuel pump on to stop vaper locking, but it also didn't waste battery power pumping fuel from the tank.
Best 6v explanatory video I have seen thus far on CZcams!
Awesome video. A newbie to auto electric. Especially the 6v pos. ground. My 48 is giving me fits. I believe this video will help tremendously. Thank you!!!
hi Ketih, thank you so much for this great video. I never understood how electriciy works and what important is for my 1949 DeSoto convertible which I love dearly. You are more than an outstanding 'teacher' for me. Thank you so much. People like you keep the old babies running on the streets, where they belong in my modest opinion.
You are welcome! Great news that you were able to learn some new things. Understanding things will allow you to become a good troubleshooter.
Great advice, Keith. My ‘39 Dodge truck is 6 volt also and starts right up. I found that once I replaced the solidified grease around the small bearings in the distributors breakerplate , she starts in a flash. I believe the solidified grease prevented the return of the breakerplate to its proper resting position so when trying to start the engine, the timing was thrown off which made for a hard start. Once cleaned and re-greased with a high temp grease the engine starts right up. One other thing, the ignition wiring from the distributor through the key switch in the on position through to the connection point at the coil should be below a half an ohm or better. High resistance in that circuit creates low energy to the coil which then will lower the coils high energy/voltage output.
Love your video. Simple straight to the point,
I got a 52 olds, very hard start, everyone is claiming that the Reason is cause there's a loose rod. claiming it has too much pressure because of it,
It does tick,
It does, however, start in 2 seconds with a 12v boost, drives nicely. So I never know. Sounds like you're right that the
Cables are too thin or something.
Or i'm thinking, maybe the guy before me put on a twelve v starter instead of a six v
I learned a hard lesson when my OLD mechanic talked me into switching my 53 Chevy over to 12volt. He forgot one important thing! The coil and the rest of the ignition system. All fixed now, but if i had it to do over again, I would not!!
Superb video! Clear, funny, and organized.
Best description ever! Wiring is my weak point. Thank you! Going through all the connections on my 1949 Dodge Coronet. Turns over very slowly. Waiting on a few cables for my starter which im about to pull and clean. Also changing the oil. Its been in storage for 40 years.
Thx. Watch my “No Spark” mini series for more electrical fundamentals. Suspect you’ll enjoy it.
@@keithsgarage5831 I'm watching it right now actually! Yet another gold mine of information! I'm good with mechanicals and body work, these are by far the most understandable videos I've ever come across. I knew the basics but was always hesitant about anything more than the basics when it comes to electrical stuff. Now I'm looking forward to it. Hoping to get my 49 Coronet up and running. Got a few pops out of it last night.
Beautiful cars you've got there. I have two 1963 imperial crowns, 1949 Dodge Coronet, 1980 Renault LeCar, 1970 Honda N600, 1976 Ford Pinto, 1991 Volvo 240 wagon, and a few other ransoms.
@@GavinJLang Let me know how you make out with your slow cranking 49 Coronet. Any updates on getting to spin over quicker?
WoW! Great video. I just bought a 48 dodge special deluxe 6v and I need to figure out how to make it run and move again. So thank you for your help. 😀 you just got another subscriber 😎🤙🏻
That was a great explanation, Keith! Thank you very much!
Great video! Followed your advice for my 53 Packard and it starts great. 👍
Awesome news. I’m glad to hear that it helped you.
Super video learned lots I’m a newb here with 6 volt
Keith should be a teacher. Very detailed video and he is rigjt i have saved several older vehicles and farm tractors using this advice
Thank you keith
Outstanding video ! Very helpful and thanks for the video .
Glad you liked it. Hopefully it helped you out.
Great video! I have a 47 dodge truck. Mine is a little hard to start. I will check my cables and connections. Thanks!
Thanks for the tutorial. I have a 6 volt 1947 Farmall Cub I'm considering changing to 12 volts, because my farm depends on it starting, which it often does not do....
Just use and 8 volt battery if you want more oomph. All you will have to do is recalibrate the regulator.
Years ago when things were really lean, I retrofitted double ought wire in place of the #4 AWG cables because my 12 volt battery had one dead cell, rendering system voltage at 10V. That got me by for almost a year until I could afford a new battery!
Cool. Neat to hear that actually worked at 10V.
Brilliant!
Howdy, Richie D. From Pasadena,CA
Re: 8 volt i used it for years for better cranking, although the electric shop ol timer at Star Electric in Monrovia advised that an 8 volt can put out to much voltage and burn or short the system ? Im using a 6 volt Optima on my 37 and 8 volt in the 48, both Dodge Coupe 2 dr, thanks for all your effort and technical programs.
Without your effort and utube channel we remain with wrench in hand and admire the cars as a museum display, thanks again, may the Lord bless u and yours and keep you strong.
8 volts won't hurt at all.
Thank you, very informative video!
I just recently bought my first 6V car. It is 1964 Opel Rekord. Everybody have been telling me to convert it to 12V. I dont want to do it.
Greetings from Finland!
Thanks! Keep doing your research, learning about the 6V system. Then make the decision for yourself.
@@keithsgarage5831
I wondered if you could do a demonstrational video about 6V lights? I would like to see how good or bad they are in total winter darkness.
Headlights, brake lights, dash lights etc.
Great video and great explanations on electric flow but you said a couple of things that need to be addressed.
Copper doesn't "rust" - only materials with iron can rust.
* Copper isn't "corrosive" but it is prone to corrosion as anything is. The corrosion is the result of the ongoing process of oxidation. As oxidation continues, a green residue builds up which is corrosion. It's the natural oxidation process of turning copper into copper oxide, cupric sulfide, and copper carbonate.
Since oxidation is affects many things, it's best to protect them. That's why we paint our steel and we cover our copper with plastic.
Having said that, it's important that you use the green and red felt battery donuts on your battery posts as well as using a spray-on battery terminal protector. Using these keeps the oxygen away which, in turn, drastically reduces the opportunity for the copper to become corroded.
Awesome explanation! You were a huge help...
I agree 100% with this footage 🎥🎬👍‼️ I always carried a spare battery in the trunk, , My 1953 Dodge Coronet with the Flathead 6 / 218 cu. Had a 6 volt electric system, Mine was souped up with electric fuel pump,, Twin exhaust manifold, Single carburator. Trubo charged High rise intake manifold, 3-speed fluid drive transmission two-speed PTO overdrive, that was out of a 47 Dodge, Great memories of American History 🇺🇸♥️🇺🇸🗽‼️
This helps a lot, thanks. I have Grandpa's 41 Dodge Truck in the garage, perhaps I'll soon be able to get the title transferred. It seems like Grandpa might have put a 12v conversion kit on it already, but I'm really not sure. The engine's not original, is all I know. It's a 1950 Dodge Flat 6 Spitfire, so it has a bit more power to it.
It has a flathead 6. If it had a flat 6, it would have a Corvair or Porsche engine. They are just about the only ones who had a flat 6.
Went to 8v. Electronic replacement for the point needs minimum of 5.1 volts to function. In the winter time voltage would pull down to 4.8. Vehicle would keep cranking but it wasn't making a spark. A full battery and adjusting the regulator and 10 years later my wife works out of her 55 Chevy on a pretty much daily basis still.
2/0 cable and run ground to starter. 49 fargo 6v pos ground gets to -35c here. Drove as year round for 20 years. Other thing replace harness to regulator. Nice show
Another great video. It's possible to use 12volt on the starter without converting everything to 12 Volts.
I had a 12volt battery hooked up to the starter only, and a 6volt battery for everything else. Like you said, a rebuild would have fixed it. But sometimes you just go with what you got. For some reason that starter didn't like 6volts ...but worked beautifully with the 12 Volts ( 6 volt starter can handle 12 Volts fine by the way). So I had a 12 volt battery laying around....problem fixed.
Once again great video
Thanks Old Crow. I appreciate the comments.
@@keithsgarage5831 Don't convert them!!!
I have no intentions to convert them. The purpose of this video is to help educate others. So they too are less likely to convert. A properly maintained 6V system on a 6 or 4 cylinder flathead engine is totally adequate.
@@keithsgarage5831 yup. I agree completely.
You should try using an 8 volt battery instead. All you have to do is recalibrate the regulator. Everything else will do fine on 8 volts as is.
Great job teach !
You know I started driving my own car when I was 16(I'm 88yrs old), a 1941 Desoto, and lived in Illinois around the Peoria, Pekin area . Cold winters were the norm and don't recall having any issues starting my car or problems seeing to drive at night either, so I guess that ignorance is bliss, huh? All of our farm tractors were 6v, and pick ups too, no problems with them either. My father's car was a straight 8 Buick and I can't recall him ever having starting problems with it either. I think that the secret to having a vehicle that started easy, was to keep the engine in good running order. Just my opinion.
Hello Keith, your battery cable video is a great help, you mentioned your 38 ply. About the ele.fule pump, so once your fuel system is pressured up, you shut the pump off? The 6v pump I purchased said my mech. Pump won't let it pump when it's shut off, do I need to get the same pump you purchased? I greatly appreciate your help! Thanks, Gary!
Optimum Batteries are the best I’ve had great starting performance in my 1936 with an 6 volt optimum battery for 5 years with out a trickle charge their great.
Since you have a good old Dodge 6 V DC generator have you thought about using a Lithium Ion battery? I have a Dodge B4C truck and I will be giving the Lithium batteries a try since I don't drive it too often.
I got a 55 with the same motor in this car on video it hasn't started in 30 yrs oil good fluids good I'm trying to find wiring diagram so I can check over the previous guys work and advice we're I can go to find parts and info thanks in advance
Great video I just picked up a 1948 Plymouth special deluxe club coupe all orginal I had got it running the second day and then all of a sudden it’s not firing up but it cranks
Thanks. Be sure to watch my latest 2 part series on No Spark. Theory and troubleshooting. I just uploaded it a few days ago.
A voltage drop test on hot and ground side of the starter can tell you so much. I know people have tried testing for resistance in cables with an ohm meter. That doesn't work at all
So glad someone is giving some love to these old cars.i have a question though. My horn blows intermittently as I drive. The issue has gotten so bad I've just disconnected the horn. Do you suppose the relay has gone bad?
should be awire from horn button straight to horn the button connects voltage to blow the horn ------ if poss, replace that wire----- insulation must worn to bear metal to allow this to happen
using an 8 volt(4 cells) and crank up the voltage regulator to about 9 volts works great. I put a 283 high performance v8 in my 48 chevy(1960). used the 6v battery. put the a width belt pull on the 6 volt generator. used 6 volt spark coil with no ballast. made the starter from a 53 and 56 starter(swapped the armature center shaft, cost a buck at the rebuilder). starting was just fine as the long duration cam (375hp fuel injection cam) used a 55 chevy 3 speed trans with hurst syncrolock shifter. a 50 olds rear end. car did a real 120mph (2 miles in 60 seconds) caused my close friend to sell his 57 olds super 88 as it could not keep up. when the small block chevy came along it revolutionized fast cars. staying on 6 volts is OK. takes 4 times as much copper in the cables. loss is I squared times R. double the current get 4 times the copper loss.
I have a 1959 Austin princess Rolls-Royce with a positive negative and I'm getting no spark and I'm not sure how to check this stuff out it's new to me I would like to learn it any tips thanks in advance
Great video Keith so informative and easy to follow along for us non super technical types. I was wondering if you use an lead additive to your gasoline as this is what would have been used in the original times. I have a 1948 wooden boat that has a Chrysler Crown flathead six marine engine that I am bringing back to life but am unsure about the gas. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
thanks
I know for sure that the car and truck engines have hardened valve seats. Lead additive is not required. I’ve never worked on a same era marine engine apart. I suspect they too have hardened valve seat inserts. Best to confirm. Do you have the head off?
@@keithsgarage5831 No as the compression and is within spec so trying not to disturb anything that doesn't need it. I love this engine's simplicity and how easy it is
to work on. I have pulled the engine from the boat as I am also repairing the hull and have mounted it on a wheeled dolly so it's super nice to work on. Thanks for
replying Keith and once again thanks for the videos.
8V battery in a 6V system is bad idea. The former owner of my car thought doing that was OK and it wasn't. In short, if you want trouble, you'll have it. Gauges will fail, light bulbs burn out early, and your radio will say good night, just to mention a few.
6V means 6V so if you're having a problem, find and repair the problem. 6V systems are very good and there isn't a need to convert to 12V either. The best thing you can do for a 6V system is install an Optima 6V battery because AGM batteries take the charge from the generator very quickly. That what I did and the 6V system in my car has been wonderful. No problems.
Hey Keith! I just found your channel cause i just bought a 1950 Pontiac Silver streak and i have a bunch of questions.
I think it boils down to wattage. The 12v conversion theory would mean that household devices would always perform better in countries with 220v than in the USA. The diesel pickup thing. I know that my 92 dodge diesel only has 1 battery. The starter supposedly can draw as much as 1200 amps and the biggest single battery i can find is 950ca at 0°. Plus the grid heater draws down your reserve some before even cranking.
I got 1940 dodge buss coupe is it 6volts has the same gen 6 volts is it pos ground
great video, you explain things so well..I need to replace my cables on my 1930 ford model A..can you suggest a site?.the ones on there are 00s..is that the same as double oughts? thanks again!
Yes. 00 is double ought. Try an auto parts store for the bare cable. You need to cut it to length then install the cable ends yourself. That’s what I do. I am not aware of any store that sells pre-made 00 battery cables.
Try a boat large dealer, they often have heavy cables. Or order from a specialty antique vehicle supplier.
My 55 ford f-350 was 12v converted when i got it and i rolled it back with no knowledge of the battery cable issue. It would laborously start when cold but when it got hot it wouldnt start at all.. this is because as wires get warmer they gain resistance and the engine bay gets very hot. So yes it worked on the tiny 12v cable for the initial startup but not after it gets hot in the engine bay.
I have a 49 windsor and I can't get the solenoid to pull the lever back. I want to keep it 6volts but I can't find a starter. Do you have any tips on getting one or fixing the one I have?
Look at the starter ID plate. Look for a number. Beginning with “MCL-6101” likely if its an auto-lite. Search for that part number on google.
Excellent video! I have a question though. If you have a 6v system and need to jump start it because the battery is dead, how do you do that?
Turn off all electrical items. Radio, fan , wiper, light etc. Have a friend in the car ready. You hook up 12V right at the starter and immediately have the friend hit the key switch and crank it over. Remove 12V immediately. Starter can easily take the 12V jump
@@keithsgarage5831 Thanks!
😃👍
Does your 38 and 53 spin at about the same speed when starting. Guessing the 38 may have lower compression and turn a little faster. Just a guess.
My ‘38 and ‘53 seem to crank over about the same. Just a guess. I have no way to measure cranking speed when starting. Both feel good and strong. No issues cranking over.
What about setting up 2 6 volt in parallel, you would get the 6v just more amps only 6v car I had I was a teen, Now I'm looking at a 37 dodge. Thanks for the video.
Sure you can do that. But a stock healthy 6V system is pretty good. Unless very cold. It won't crank over any faster though.
I'd like to see how you have the auxiliary fuel pump hooked up.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I will consider a video on the my auxiliary electric fuel priming pump system.
Great vid it was like listening to myself talk. I am also a great believer in the capability of the 6 volt system. I did exactly the same thing and tried 3/0 battery cables but they were too big, I reduced to 1/0 and they were much better. Don't forget the starter solenoid. The modern 6 volt "eastern sourced" replacement solenoids still use 12 volt size contacts inside. They just change the energizing coil to a 6 volt one. I paralleled a pair of them and they worked much better. You can find the good 6v solenoids by weight, they are much heavier than the 12 volt ones. Copper is heavy.
Years ago car owners single viscosity 30 weight oil in their cars. Here in Texas where winter is usually not as cold as states up north 30 weight was usually OK. My 2010 Toyota 1.8 L four cylinder engine uses 5W20 oil or 0W20 oil.
Oils have improved a lot over the decades. A thinner coat of modern oil can offer a lot more protection than the old oil.
Ive heard the Buick and olds 6 v starters had 4 fields as opposed to 2 in the chevs and that they worked better
Cables important but often overlooked are body firewall grounds missing or corroded. Big hi compression 8 don't fight it use 8 volt battery. All electrics lights and radio generator and regulator handle it long term no problem.
Im keeping mine 6 volt! 1951 plymouth cambridge.
Hi Keith .I have a question can you put a 12 V "ugaah " horn from ebay into 6 V system ?.
I have not done this. If it will even spin, it will likely turn too slow and won't sound right. I doubt you'd be happy with it.
No, you need a 6 volt Ahooga horn.
I thought Mopar vehicles in the early to mid 50's were 8v. At least the one I saw at a car show a few years back had a battery with 4 caps, not 3. Also, it looked like the transmission in this video did not have park. True?
No on the 8V system. Some people put in a 8V battery. Compensating for poor electrical system maintenance. Its a band-aid. No park in that transmission, correct.
Hi Kieth, could you tell me what oil you use, was. wondering if a synthetic lower viscosity oil would help starting in cooler weather?
My cars are parked for the winter. I am in Canada. Snow ice and salt on the roads here keep my cars from seeing cold weather. What are the coldest temps your cars see?
@@keithsgarage5831 I also live in Canada (Niagara on the Lake) and my M47 Chrysler Crown engine is in my boat. Trying everything you suggest to help stay with 6 volts, some early fall mornings can get quite chilly. Also wondering what oil you use to see if you recommend a multi grade synthetic as a replacement for the single grade 40 sae.
thanks
Paul
Have you seen my videos on non-detergent oils and the sludge they create in your engine? This sludge needs to come out before you switch to a modern multi-viscosity, detergent oil. I would not run synthetic oil in these engines. It’ll likely cause extra oil leaks. If you decide to switch to modern oil in cool weather, a 10W30 should be fine. In my opinion.
@@keithsgarage5831 Thanks Kieth, will watch your video about oils and will check for sludge. Would be nice to be able to use 0-20 but I agree it’s not for these engines. Really got a lot of useful info on getting the most from 6 volts, love the detail!
Finally! Somebody besides myself understands!
I bought this car and I'm not getting no spark I put a 12-volt battery in it but I'm not sure if I need a 6 Volt or 12 volt it is a 1959 Austin princess Rolls-Royce I cannot find no information I would love it if somebody could help me out
How many cars back in the day had electric wipers
Dont have to change anything just put an 8 volt battery in and adjust the voltage regulator it will crank way better and work great
I just went out and looked under the hoods of my cars and my customers' cars..... and I didn't find one "chick" near any of the batteries! ;)
Electrons are not visible to humans. All the electron chics hang out in the battery you just can't see them. Don't believe me? Why do you think all the male electrons are in such a manic rush to get back to to the battery, once they leave it? Lol...Glad to see you watched my whole video and picked up on that comment. Cheers mate.
So, if we ignore the cost, can you go 𝑡𝑜𝑜 ℎ𝑒𝑎𝑣𝑦 with cables for starter, headlights etc? If it's properly installed and insulated, not rubbing on anything, is thicker always better?
Bigger is better for a 6V system, to an extent. Match the amp draw to the wire gauge size and length. For example there is no reason to run “00” gauge wire to your headlights. A total waste. However 12 ga might be ideal for a 6v system.
@@keithsgarage5831 I agree that 00 wire would be wasted on headlights but, could using oversized cables ever do any harm? What I'm thinking about here is almost definitely overkill but, if you were designing the "ultimate" reliable vehicle, giving everything the best possible chance of long-term, efficient operation, could you actually go "too far" with wiring?
Taking it to extremes; if you were to use 00 cables throughout the vehicle, would it cause any issues, or just be a waste of cable/money?
@@2H80vids I think it would cause no harm at all. Other than weight, waste of money, bulkiness.
@@auteurfiddler8706 Interesting, thanks.
You can never be too big, as long as it fits.
Nice machines, good presentation.
When you say Ground, a guy could just as easily say the common connection. Where any electrical device gets a connection to one post of the battery. Then the common/return travels thru the engine block to the frame to the fender and to the firewall. All these connections come back to the engine common back to the battery. My 1966 chevrolet had all these cables plus ground/common cables under the dash connecting the in dash electrical components to each other and then to common/ground again
for
I know that you know this, but you did not show any fuses in your drawing. Also your battery has a half cell to many .
for a six volt bty. I know, I'll see myself out.
this is somthing that seldom if ever discussed in hard starting and odd tbles hard to find it happened to me 3times in my life time i am 88 dont drive any more . med ical reasons heres what happens turn switch key just clicks no start jump start dont work replace starter still no start tow to garage to fix 2 days later got it fixed the gd cable goes from battery ( black wire) to conn to frame beneath the eng with bolt that bolt was about to fall out tighten bolt started right up first time this cost me $$$$--several years later in my drive way same thing happen told my friend to check that bolt it was loose easy fix next i was at a local store a cust had this happen about 6 men tell him what try they had jumper cables nothing worked i told let fix it for you i conn 1 jumper from batt to eng try it now started right up told replace gd cable it also frayed made me look very smart LOL
how do you adjust the parking brake on a 1949 chrysler windsor?
I have never owned or worked on a 49 Chrysler Windsor. Do you have an external brake band & a drum at the rear of your transmission out put?
@@keithsgarage5831 i believe external brake band behind the trans
I think I see a Group 1 battery in the Windsor....The specs call for a Group 2...I have a '54 plymouth with a 230 c.i. engine with Powerflite automatic trans-- calls for a Group 2...My other'54 Plymouth with a 217 c.i. engine, has a 3 speed with overdrive...That one calls for the Group 1...Battery ampacity also counts.
I would stay away from the Group 1, except for VWs, Stude Champions, Nash 600/Rambler and other cars with under 200 cubic inches.
So what size cable would you recommend for a 6 volt system?
For battery cable single ought should do just fine.
@@keithsgarage5831 That would be 0 gauge correct?
@@raulflores8440 correct.
@@keithsgarage5831 I appreciate your feedback. Thank u.
Great video, I am having that exact issue with a 1941 olds six cyl. Still not sure if it is pos. ground.
GM was Negative ground.
Fantastic video!
A 3 candle bulb is just an bright as the 3 candle power bulb.
I have a '61 VW bus, 6 volt. I'd like to keep it 6 volt, but the replacement electrical parts are a crap shoot these days. Horrible quality Chinese and Brazilian replacement parts are making it harder and more expensive to 'keep it stock'. Sometimes parts last a thousand miles, then the next crap out after 15 miles. Just garbage.
Around 20 minutes, is that fuel line almost or actually touching the exhaust manifold?? .. Or, is that the intake manifold? .... Could be mighty dangerous if the fuel line goes so close to the HOT exhaust manifold!!!
Also, you should not try to use a little Group 1 battery, unless your engine is less than 200 cubic inches.
I have a 1937 Oldsmobile and it seems to be killing the battery
You’ll need to find what is causing the battery to drain down. Digital clamp meter for AC current is a great tool to troubleshoot your problem.
A 3 candle power bulb six or twelve is just as bright as the other
6 volt batteries are hard to find in some countries.
I NEVER have any problems with my 6v system, it always starts. People drove these cars every day back in the day, if the 6v systems didn't work back then they would have fixed it 90 years ago
High compression, overhead valve, & high RPM’s killed the 6V system in mass-produced cars. There is no need for 12V in flat head 6 cylinder, low compression, low RPM flathead engine.
To be fair, they fixed it 66 years ago
FACTS!
The 6V system is inferior to 12V. The conversation is very simple, especially if you leave the 6V starter in place. Often with 6V system you get ONE CHANCE.
Checking the battery's cells with a hydrometer, is not an option with the current crop of"sealed" batteries. There are no filler caps.
Agreed. Which is partly why I don't buy modern sealed top batteries.
@@keithsgarage5831 You can't buy your preffered type of battery( with filler caps), if parts stores don't stock them.
@@jeromebreeding3302 I suppose it depends on your location in the world. I’m fortunate to have plenty of battery options here. No issues getting the battery I prefer.
more voltage is like more pressure
So my 46 Plymouth 218 is a positive ground....wow explains everything...young and dumb..lol
The reason is change over twelve
Since you like chrysler products, you might enjoy the film on youtube
WW2 was won with 6 volt vehicles.
The best thing to do with a 6v system is to install an 8 volt battery
That’s not true.