THANK GOD I watched this video before I decided to tear out that front hose valve assembly. Was seconds from wasting a couple hours of work. Took me 10 minutes to install. car runs smooth. You da man!!
I did actually replace the purge valve (up-front complex swap-out) and it resolved the stalling issue I had. But I still had an annoying rattling sound coming from the back. And in further research, it's that rear Canister Vent Valve (when bad) that causes the purge valve issue. So before I have to replace the front Purge Valve again, I'm going to do this - great video and for sure I should have done this along with purge valve. Though, if I had purchased both I would have done the rear Canister Vent Valve first (easier) and see if that resolved it. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Rock Auto sells an aftermarket kit (Dorman ?) for the purge valve that splices a new into the line without ripping everything open. I think all I had to pull was the airbox & ducting.
You were sold a canister vent valve which is located near the fuel tank. The purge valve is located up front on the engine. Both are needed for the EVAP system to function properly
Very well put my guy. You saved me a couple $$$ making this easy DIY. My mechanic replaced that hose and another module under the seat and couldn’t find it. You explained exactly the same issue I have. Thank you
My husband said thank you. He just replaced this while we were on vacation this was a lifesaver. Our check engine light is still on so I’ll have to do a bit more research to see if we need to reset it but my husband says the car is definitely running smoother
dude... i can totally hear the frustration in your voice - (you sound just like me if i were to make the video!!). thank you for the video. it will save many of us a lot of time, aggravation and a little money as well. your efforts are appreciated!
Corey, THANK YOU for sharing this. Was trying to decide whether or not to tear the whole engine compartment apart (just as you did) OR take it to the dealer. Then I ran into your video.
Bro you are the man . Thank you so much ... sucks you had to go threw that then made the most out of it by making this video to help prevent us from having to . Thanks
THANK YOU!!! Gah, I love you.. after searching for hours and hours I decided to watch this one and boy am I glad I did.. you have saved me so much time and effort! Thankfully I didn’t take the hosing off I was about to! Definitely a life saver you are!
I wish I would have watched your video before I went to replace mine. I bought the same part you did thinking it was the part by the engine but I now know it is the part by the tank lol thank you for this video.
On my 1987 Chevy Celebrity , there is an Evap Purge Solenoid on the charcoal canister under the hood that is pulsed to send vapors to the engine to burn . The valve would intermittently stick open and cause a large drop in vacuum and rough running . That valve can also cause problems . Good to see you found the problem .
wow I can't believe it thanks to your video I discovered what my 2016 ford escape 2.0 ecobost had since lately when I put gas it started to shake and it wanted to turn off it turns out that the canister hose was disconnected since 2 years ago they fix my car from behind and they never connected it thank you very much
Wish you showed the removal and replace. Your video hits my conclusion of the problem. Thank you very much. I do wish i had sunshine like you, but i have a rainy day without a garage to use. My bad luck, yet happy to find your video!
As the OP says many times in replies it’s typically both parts that need replacing. The P1450 code could be either part and they work together so you’ll probably wind up replacing both parts at some point. If you have the AWD version you’ll think replacing the under hood solenoid is a day at the beach versus replacing the canister purge valve. The AWD system blocks access to the canister valve and you’ll need to drop most of the rear axle to access it.
@@rich9766 Its been a couple of months now. I recall using a flash light and locating it in between components. it's not easy to see from the ground looking up with the awd in the way, but you can barely make it out. Once I knew where it was, I think I reached up and over the axle maybe?
You don't need to remove the cowling and brake resevior to do this. Its very tight and your hand will get scraped but you do it by feel and you can work your hand back there and remove the clip and press hte button to pull apart the pipe (not you may have to push it down in the process to get teh clip to set before pushing it all the way in... if you straignten the fitting upward before pulling, it help get it off. (if its not straight before yo push button in and pull apart, it wont come - took me 10 mins to finally get it to release).. of course take those allthose green clips off first. PITA but I did my whole front harness in 20 mins. Remove 2 flex inboard flex pipes coming off the filterbox first. Good luck.
I get a hard start every time after fueling and also on occasion a farting sound from the fuel filler neck. Gonna start with this one and hopefully avoid that other mess. Thx for the info
Same for MKC 2016 2.3 Ecoboost no videos on where to find and replace the part on Lincoln you may have to disconnect the battery and then disconnect fuel fill connection by the unit
Firestone charged me $70 for the part and $230 for the labor of installing this part. I talked to the mechanic beforehand but he refused to explain to me the simplicity of remedying this problem - Live and Learn!
This is an easy one... I have 4wd 2.0 2017 Escape and because of rear diff, its SO hard to get this canister, and when you get it out, you can replace valve only, or whole canister- better whole canister with valve. Assemble it back is very easy.
Sorry you had to go through PIA. QUESTION, is the EcoBoost purge different? My daughters 2016 Escape with 2.0 EcoBoost has the P1450 code and people on FB and other groups are saying the purge valve. If that's the one, I'm good with that! Thanks!
I’m replacing the harness first because the solenoid is stuck tripping the check engine light, hopefully it hasn’t damaged the part in the back next to the gas tank or I will have to replace that too.
I've had great luck with my 2015 2.0, but there are a few small things that irritate me, and the biggest problem that I have with this car is that some of the simplest things are made difficult. Battery? Under the wiper cowl. So STUPID.
@@aaronanstett6622 I had to replace my battery after two years. Came back to the car after a long ride on the quad and the fuel pump had been running all day & killed the battery. Never held a charge after that. replaced it with an Interstate (I sell them) and it's been fine ever since. Replaced the tires about then too, but all new vehicles are like that. The biggest was the turbo: within the warranty timeline but just outside it on mileage. Ford KNEW it was a problem and redesigned it to eliminate that exact problem, but it still cost me $6K to get it fixed with no relief from them. Then the canister purge valve kept the engine from starting after gassing up. A bunch of little stuff too like the inverter dying, the rear wiper arm breaking in the cold, fuel economy well outside the sticker (again, that's to be expected in new vehicles), sway bar end links, left front hub bearings. Current codes are an intermittent misfire on #2 and post-cat O2 sensor. I think I'm now into this crate for about half what I paid for it.
I was looking back-and-forth between the engine and the new canister thinking where the hell is this damn thing for about an hour. I replaced it on a Lincoln MKC and it was in front of the rear axle but just above it
Just replaced that entire vacuum hose and purge valve assembly yesterday. Boy was it ever a pain in the ass to get all those green clips to let go. A LOT of cussing. And I cleared the old codes. This morning it's still throwing the code. Ughh!
Ouch! Hate to say but those clips are a pain in the ass, especially if you have big hands. You might want to double check all the connections. Perhaps one didn't seat all the way?
2016 escape 2.0 se awd. Gas smell when driving. Has a stumble sometimes when taking off. But, I also have that ABS and traction control light on issue that can also cause some issues. Gonna replace abs sensors in rear. But the gas smell? Can't find a gas leak. Has to be something to do with this? Autozone check engine code shows an O2 sensor. Car has 170k miles. A/C just quit. Hell in georgia in July. Gauges on A/C shows high pressure on low side. No noise. Clutch works. Thanks. Help! What a POS
My 2015 Titanium has a hose about an 2" wide blocking access to the valve down by the fuel tank. Is there any issue with temporarily disconnecting the hose? my concern is that it's a fuel hose or something.
I am so glad I found this video. I have the same car, but when I have no clue how you were able to reach out to where the part is located. There are too many pipes, hoses, and a cover that needs to be removed. Did you do all this without blueprints of the car?
Thank you. Thats invaluable. Do you have any idea if it might work for 2018 ford escape sel? I am going to give it a try. Same issue, mainly weak idling and unable to start for few minutes after a fill up.
I have a 2016 Ford Escape SE 2.0 with Ecoboost. I took it to the dealership yesterday to get a diagnosis. When I get a full tank of gas, the vehicle shudders and acts like it wants to stall though it never does. When the gas level is low, the vehicle acts as though it doesn't want to start and the RPM's surge at low speeds (35-40mph). I have also noticed a hesitation when trying to accelerate to expressway speeds and my gas mileage is abhorrent. While the vehicle is not throwing any codes, the car dealership told me that it was the Purge Valve and quoted me around $450. I barely have enough money to pay for the dealership's diagnostic fee, so obviously that repair is not within my budget. Will it damage the vehicle to continue to drive with this issue? If so, is it possible to begin by replacing only the canister instead of the entire harness?
It will only get worse and you will eventually stall when at idol. Go ahead and replace one at a time, but I eventually ended up replacing harness as well. $113 bucks and hour and a half time.
So I have a question. My check engine light came on. The only indication I had this issue is that the car stalled once or initially upon start up after gasing the car up. How do I know it’s that canister vs the harness?
I have 2017 ford escape same horrible problem to a point where my care would die if i'm bumper to bumper traffic it's fine on high speed. My point is I can't reach the purge valve at all
Question. On the harness you took out that connection that clipped onto some hose at the bottom, what is that part called? When taking that harness off it broke the peace it connects to
So, did this solve your problem? I just replaced the canister purge valve like you said in the video. Upon filling up the gas the issue consisted. So I am wondering if this solved the problem for you.
I did end up replacing the harness as well. It has two in-line filters that threw another code once I replaced the canister purge valve. I threw the code after about 200 miles.
@@coreymedley2744 hello Corey I just looked again and can't see anything that resembles that part I give up I'm just going to take part back tell them I can't find it thanks
I watched all those other videos about replacing everything in the engine bay. I'm moderately handy but f*ck that noise. I'm trying this first, and will report back if it solves the issue! :)
THANK GOD I watched this video before I decided to tear out that front hose valve assembly. Was seconds from wasting a couple hours of work. Took me 10 minutes to install. car runs smooth. You da man!!
I did actually replace the purge valve (up-front complex swap-out) and it resolved the stalling issue I had. But I still had an annoying rattling sound coming from the back. And in further research, it's that rear Canister Vent Valve (when bad) that causes the purge valve issue. So before I have to replace the front Purge Valve again, I'm going to do this - great video and for sure I should have done this along with purge valve. Though, if I had purchased both I would have done the rear Canister Vent Valve first (easier) and see if that resolved it. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
I ended up replacing engine harness as well, but it bought me some time.
Rock Auto sells an aftermarket kit (Dorman ?) for the purge valve that splices a new into the line without ripping everything open. I think all I had to pull was the airbox & ducting.
I have a 1.6 turbo, i cant find this in the back of my car.
How the hell did you get it off the 3 clips!
@@KB-in8kv We are doing this right now too and can’t figure the clips out.
You were sold a canister vent valve which is located near the fuel tank. The purge valve is located up front on the engine. Both are needed for the EVAP system to function properly
I have a 2016 escape 1.6 turbo. I cant find this in the back of my car. Where is it?
@@isaachernandez136did you find it I’m looking for it
Very well put my guy. You saved me a couple $$$ making this easy DIY. My mechanic replaced that hose and another module under the seat and couldn’t find it. You explained exactly the same issue I have. Thank you
The "Purge valve" is at the Engine. That square one in the back is the "Vent Solenoid" just don't wan't someone getting mixed up by this video
My husband said thank you. He just replaced this while we were on vacation this was a lifesaver. Our check engine light is still on so I’ll have to do a bit more research to see if we need to reset it but my husband says the car is definitely running smoother
Any auto parts store should be able to reset light. Takes a few seconds.
I was about to replace the entire harness until I saw your video. Thanks Corey. This is very helpful. You rock bro.
There will still be a chance that you will still have to replace the harness. So be prepared just in case.
dude... i can totally hear the frustration in your voice - (you sound just like me if i were to make the video!!). thank you for the video. it will save many of us a lot of time, aggravation and a little money as well. your efforts are appreciated!
Thank you for saving me the time and money! I highly appreciate your video and time.
Corey, THANK YOU for sharing this. Was trying to decide whether or not to tear the whole engine compartment apart (just as you did) OR take it to the dealer. Then I ran into your video.
Bro you are the man . Thank you so much ... sucks you had to go threw that then made the most out of it by making this video to help prevent us from having to . Thanks
THANK YOU!!! Gah, I love you.. after searching for hours and hours I decided to watch this one and boy am I glad I did.. you have saved me so much time and effort! Thankfully I didn’t take the hosing off I was about to! Definitely a life saver you are!
I wish I would have watched your video before I went to replace mine. I bought the same part you did thinking it was the part by the engine but I now know it is the part by the tank lol thank you for this video.
My husband says THANK YOU!!!!!!! We owe you one!
On my 1987 Chevy Celebrity , there is an Evap Purge Solenoid on the charcoal canister under the hood that is pulsed to send vapors to the engine to burn . The valve would intermittently stick open and cause a large drop in vacuum and rough running . That valve can also cause problems . Good to see you found the problem .
Thank you for showing this. Lot more complicated than I thought (for someone who knows nothing about cars).
Thank u billion times u are so faithful and awesome so sorry for ur lost time but u will surely help million people around the universe
wow I can't believe it thanks to your video I discovered what my 2016 ford escape 2.0 ecobost had since lately when I put gas it started to shake and it wanted to turn off it turns out that the canister hose was disconnected since 2 years ago they fix my car from behind and they never connected it thank you very much
Bless you, I saw this video if is not for you I would've start taking my car apart 🙏
Awesome job bud. not only on your car but passing your knowledge 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you so much. I almost bought that whole assembly for the 2015 Escape Titanium 2.0T
Was your stalling out after filling the gas tank up?
@@chrisryan2024mine is what was the solution
Working on my 1st Ford. You helped me. Ty..
I work on benz 22yrs
YES!!! Thank you for posting this!!! You're a lifesaver (and money)
Wish you showed the removal and replace. Your video hits my conclusion of the problem. Thank you very much. I do wish i had sunshine like you, but i have a rainy day without a garage to use. My bad luck, yet happy to find your video!
As the OP says many times in replies it’s typically both parts that need replacing. The P1450 code could be either part and they work together so you’ll probably wind up replacing both parts at some point. If you have the AWD version you’ll think replacing the under hood solenoid is a day at the beach versus replacing the canister purge valve. The AWD system blocks access to the canister valve and you’ll need to drop most of the rear axle to access it.
This is the truth....
Somehow I was able to do it around the awd without the need to drop it, but it wasn't fun
@@ScottinVA how was you able to do it? any tips?
@@rich9766 Its been a couple of months now. I recall using a flash light and locating it in between components. it's not easy to see from the ground looking up with the awd in the way, but you can barely make it out. Once I knew where it was, I think I reached up and over the axle maybe?
@@ScottinVA thank you thats how i got it off but it still did not solve my problem.
Thanks dude you saved me from a big headache
Thanks for saving me some unnecessary work. Appreciate the video
You don't need to remove the cowling and brake resevior to do this. Its very tight and your hand will get scraped but you do it by feel and you can work your hand back there and remove the clip and press hte button to pull apart the pipe (not you may have to push it down in the process to get teh clip to set before pushing it all the way in... if you straignten the fitting upward before pulling, it help get it off. (if its not straight before yo push button in and pull apart, it wont come - took me 10 mins to finally get it to release).. of course take those allthose green clips off first. PITA but I did my whole front harness in 20 mins. Remove 2 flex inboard flex pipes coming off the filterbox first. Good luck.
God bless you sir. Going to swap my part out today. Hopefully it works! I’ll let you know
Thank you for this as I have to replace mine
Happy new year
I get a hard start every time after fueling and also on occasion a farting sound from the fuel filler neck. Gonna start with this one and hopefully avoid that other mess. Thx for the info
Your so so so my hero for this video!!! N not just cuz I win the "this is right part argument!"
Dude thank you soo much I was going to lose my mind. Because I did the same exact thing
THANK FUCKING GOD YOU DID ALL THIS. Thanks for making this video. Fucks sake
Makes sense. I had a weird humming coming from that area. I pulled over to check it out and there was a strong chemical smell.
Same for MKC 2016 2.3 Ecoboost no videos on where to find and replace the part on Lincoln you may have to disconnect the battery and then disconnect fuel fill connection by the unit
Sir I can’t thank you enough 👍🏼
You're very welcome.
Thank you
Awesome thankyou took about a half hour tops
Firestone charged me $70 for the part and $230 for the labor of installing this part. I talked to the mechanic beforehand but he refused to explain to me the simplicity of remedying this problem - Live and Learn!
Dude thank you for being so blunt !
This is an easy one... I have 4wd 2.0 2017 Escape and because of rear diff, its SO hard to get this canister, and when you get it out, you can replace valve only, or whole canister- better whole canister with valve. Assemble it back is very easy.
Thanks! Researching this issue atm. Life saver. Hope you will the lotto bro. :)
Sorry you had to go through PIA. QUESTION, is the EcoBoost purge different?
My daughters 2016 Escape with 2.0 EcoBoost has the P1450 code and people on FB and other groups are saying the purge valve. If that's the one, I'm good with that! Thanks!
Thanks for posting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So glad I watched this first
How much you save me a lot of work I would have done the same thing you said take all that stuff apart great video
Thank you sir
Thank you for this video
Literal God. You are a savior.
Awesome sorry you had to do that. Thank you
Thank you very much
Awesome, Corey!
Thank you so much man !
Thanks for sharing!
THANK YOU! ❤
Thank You E1b1a
I’m replacing the harness first because the solenoid is stuck tripping the check engine light, hopefully it hasn’t damaged the part in the back next to the gas tank or I will have to replace that too.
Thanks! I was just about to tear that monstrosity out!
You’re the goat 🫡
Thx for the vid.
I have the same car - worst vehicle I've ever owned and, after being a lifetime Ranger guy, it'll be my last Ford.
I've had great luck with my 2015 2.0, but there are a few small things that irritate me, and the biggest problem that I have with this car is that some of the simplest things are made difficult. Battery? Under the wiper cowl. So STUPID.
@@aaronanstett6622
I had to replace my battery after two years.
Came back to the car after a long ride on the quad and the fuel pump had been running all day & killed the battery.
Never held a charge after that.
replaced it with an Interstate (I sell them) and it's been fine ever since.
Replaced the tires about then too, but all new vehicles are like that.
The biggest was the turbo: within the warranty timeline but just outside it on mileage. Ford KNEW it was a problem and redesigned it to eliminate that exact problem, but it still cost me $6K to get it fixed with no relief from them.
Then the canister purge valve kept the engine from starting after gassing up.
A bunch of little stuff too like the inverter dying, the rear wiper arm breaking in the cold, fuel economy well outside the sticker (again, that's to be expected in new vehicles), sway bar end links, left front hub bearings.
Current codes are an intermittent misfire on #2 and post-cat O2 sensor. I think I'm now into this crate for about half what I paid for it.
God bless you sir!!!
how do you get the electrical plug off of it.. it wont budge
Others have said it... vent valve and purge valve aren’t the same thing
I was looking back-and-forth between the engine and the new canister thinking where the hell is this damn thing for about an hour. I replaced it on a Lincoln MKC and it was in front of the rear axle but just above it
Try resetting the ECM code and not overfilling the tank. It's been over a month and P1450 has not come back? If it does I will repost.
Thanks man 🙌🏾
Just replaced that entire vacuum hose and purge valve assembly yesterday. Boy was it ever a pain in the ass to get all those green clips to let go. A LOT of cussing. And I cleared the old codes.
This morning it's still throwing the code. Ughh!
Ouch! Hate to say but those clips are a pain in the ass, especially if you have big hands. You might want to double check all the connections. Perhaps one didn't seat all the way?
@@coreymedley2744 thanks for this video! I ordered that part you showed in the vid. Will replace that then see what happens!
Hi Corey, how about for ford escape 1.6V SE 2015 where could i locate this part?
Where can I find this part, 2017 Ford Escape titanium
2016 escape 2.0 se awd. Gas smell when driving. Has a stumble sometimes when taking off. But, I also have that ABS and traction control light on issue that can also cause some issues. Gonna replace abs sensors in rear. But the gas smell? Can't find a gas leak. Has to be something to do with this? Autozone check engine code shows an O2 sensor. Car has 170k miles. A/C just quit. Hell in georgia in July. Gauges on A/C shows high pressure on low side. No noise. Clutch works. Thanks. Help! What a POS
My 2015 Titanium has a hose about an 2" wide blocking access to the valve down by the fuel tank. Is there any issue with temporarily disconnecting the hose? my concern is that it's a fuel hose or something.
Will it stop the no start after out gas in?
I am so glad I found this video. I have the same car, but when I have no clue how you were able to reach out to where the part is located. There are too many pipes, hoses, and a cover that needs to be removed. Did you do all this without blueprints of the car?
Yes
@@coreymedley2744 I admire you bro, I tried for an hr and failed to do it XD
Do you think this part being bad could be the cause of a P0496 code?
Thank you. Thats invaluable. Do you have any idea if it might work for 2018 ford escape sel? I am going to give it a try. Same issue, mainly weak idling and unable to start for few minutes after a fill up.
i disconnected the one by the tank now my car is running properly. Temporary fix if your in a bind.
Thank you for this video. I will try it. Was it a pain in the ass to un-clip and re-clip back together?
I have a 2016 Ford Escape SE 2.0 with Ecoboost. I took it to the dealership yesterday to get a diagnosis. When I get a full tank of gas, the vehicle shudders and acts like it wants to stall though it never does. When the gas level is low, the vehicle acts as though it doesn't want to start and the RPM's surge at low speeds (35-40mph). I have also noticed a hesitation when trying to accelerate to expressway speeds and my gas mileage is abhorrent. While the vehicle is not throwing any codes, the car dealership told me that it was the Purge Valve and quoted me around $450. I barely have enough money to pay for the dealership's diagnostic fee, so obviously that repair is not within my budget. Will it damage the vehicle to continue to drive with this issue? If so, is it possible to begin by replacing only the canister instead of the entire harness?
It will only get worse and you will eventually stall when at idol. Go ahead and replace one at a time, but I eventually ended up replacing harness as well. $113 bucks and hour and a half time.
So I have a question. My check engine light came on. The only indication I had this issue is that the car stalled once or initially upon start up after gasing the car up. How do I know it’s that canister vs the harness?
I would recommend replacing both. Replacing the canister bought me time but ended up replacing harness also.
Sorry, bro. Thanks for the heads up.
Mucho Thanks!!!!!!!
What is that part called ?
What is the part number on that part you replaced? the purge vent next to the fuel tank
Dont see a post or anything in the video that lists the part number... yet everyone saying they ordered it .. am I missing something>?
Pv338. Vapor canister shut off valve.
I have 2017 ford escape same horrible problem to a point where my care would die if i'm bumper to bumper traffic it's fine on high speed. My point is I can't reach the purge valve at all
What code were you getting? I have a 144c and don't know if I need the long harness ( which I replaced 4 yrs ago) or the canister
That is the canister vent valve you replaced.
Thank you Too bad I replace the harness first before I seen your video
I still replaced the harness as well. I never want to go through that hassle again.
Is it the same location for the l
2015 Lincoln mkc 2.3 eco
So is this the Evaporative emissions cannister purge valve ?
Question. On the harness you took out that connection that clipped onto some hose at the bottom, what is that part called? When taking that harness off it broke the peace it connects to
Bottom clip of the harness.
What is that part call? Because I'm going threw the same thing
So, did this solve your problem? I just replaced the canister purge valve like you said in the video. Upon filling up the gas the issue consisted. So I am wondering if this solved the problem for you.
I did end up replacing the harness as well. It has two in-line filters that threw another code once I replaced the canister purge valve. I threw the code after about 200 miles.
Did you get the same p1450 code after 200 miles?
This is NOT the purge valve. This Is the vent valve.
Wish there was a video like this for the Ford Focus 14. I need to replace mine and everyone on CZcams is just showing that stupid harness.
Did you have to remove the exhaust drive shaft and fuel tank to reach it. I couldn’t figure out how to reach it
No I didn't. There should be enough space to reach a hand up and disconnect.
How can i fix my evaporator in my escape 2015
I have a 2016 fusion I have that part but can't find it on car even looked back where you said any help would be great?
Check engine compartment on the right side. Follow harness toward upper rear engine compartment.
@@coreymedley2744 hello Corey
I just looked again and can't see anything that resembles that part I give up I'm just going to take part back tell them I can't find it thanks
I watched all those other videos about replacing everything in the engine bay. I'm moderately handy but f*ck that noise. I'm trying this first, and will report back if it solves the issue! :)
Just a heads up. I did eventually end up replacing the harness around the engine.
@@coreymedley2744 Currently having this same problem. Thanks for the video. Why did you end up replacing the harness afterall?
The loss of power continued after awhile. On the harness there are a couple inline filters I believe played a part in this whole issue.
What was the code