You spoke of the kerfing planes thumb screws slipping. Try this: remove the fence and file across the top of both metal arms at the same time to create a flat surface the thumb screw to index against. You could also use a cupped set screw against this surface. That might require an Allen wrench to tighten.
Thank you for this honest update. For many hobby woodworker, especially those using hand tools, we are almost forced to come up with these affordable solutions to problems at times. These tool builds are helpful and inspiring. Also, you are to be commended on your humility in showing the "what didn't work" parts. This is a quality of character that is far too rare!
Nice... regarding the thumbscrews on the second tool; I've had a similar issue,on other items, and made a brass 'plug', flat on one end, and with a curve matching the 'rod' on the other end, so that you get a nice 'grab' on the rod, and no movement caused by the thumbscrew not being perfectly centered... it's also possible to put a point(truncated a bit) on the thumbscrew, so that it hits the middle of the rod, instead of 'riding along. The ejection port reminds me of a 'chip breaker on a lathe tool.
I have the same problem with the rabbett plane I made using some of your design... I have made a few adjustments but I mostly just don't try to take as much material, and then it works fine. Interestingly, the antique wood grooving plane I have has exactly the same problem... so I think that fine tuning these items to the individual user must be fairly common. Good video.
I believe you're right! When I realized "it's ok" to modify tools you buy my whole world opened up. I think a lot of people are hesitant to modify tools because they think it should be perfect the way it is since it's a mass produced product, but that's not always the case. Same goes for vintage tools as well. All master artisans make and modify their tools to their liking. Thanks for watching!
Amazing video! would you consider making a video demonstrating how to build a Japanese style saw vise? I can only find videos showing western variations that lock into a vice to secure the saw blade with outside clamping pressure. I love the Japanese style where the wood pivots in the middle so that a wedge inserted to the "bottom" jaws of the vise secure and clamp the blade in the top jaws. (Hopefully that explanation makes sense, even describing it well is elusive for me.) edit: if anyone has any resources on this topic please send them my way!
Thanks for commenting! The Japanese version of a saw vise (Noko-hasami) is very basic and easy to make. Unfortunately, you need a good, wide piece of hard wood that won't warp (preferably laminated) and put the jaws out of parallel. With hard wood (all wood, actually!) being so expensive these days I don't really want to use the wood for a tool that I've already made. I did find two blogs from people here in Japan that have made them though. One uses what looks like screws at the pivot point, while the other uses some kind of lacing (the builder doesn't specify in the post). They say that they chose laminated oak for the jaws so that it would warp as little as possible, and that planes were used to created the steps on the inside of the jaw. From experience I know that using planes on this type of laminated oak is extremely difficult, but it can be done. One of the blog posts has a diagram with dimensions. It's in Japanese "sun," (pronounced like "soon" in English, but shorter) , but you can get an idea of the ratio. You can check out my video on the sashigane for a little more information on the sun unit of measurement. Here's the link to that vid: czcams.com/video/i__oDChKPzA/video.html And, here are the links to the blog posts. blog.goo.ne.jp/ariari_1946/e/3b1ec6755ee84695c122dd96ad185ed3 mederu.blog62.fc2.com/blog-entry-5.html I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
@@TenonsTenors Thank you so much for this helpful response, I really appreciate it. I just stumbled across your channel the other day but based on this response and the videos I've already seen I'm eager to watch more!
@@elil8156 Thank you! I had a death in the family last year that threw me off track, but I hope to resume making videos in the near future. I appreciate the support!
Hi! I have a question about your custom grooving plane. What do you do if the groove you cut happens to be against the grain? There is no way to reverse the plane, so how do you manage? I guess the same goes for your #55, what do you do if you're trying to cut a molding and it goes against the grain?
With the grooving planes for drawers I make sure the drawer sides are going in the correct direction for planing before I lay out the joinery. For moldings,I just flip the piece of wood around. I never shape moldings that are already attached to something. You can get away with that with an electric router, but as you pointed out, with hand tools you have to plan a little further in advance when it comes to orienting wood grain. Thanks for watching!
Wonderful to get inspired by your ideas and work. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I hope others follow this example, very useful. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
You spoke of the kerfing planes thumb screws slipping. Try this: remove the fence and file across the top of both metal arms at the same time to create a flat surface the thumb screw to index against. You could also use a cupped set screw against this surface. That might require an Allen wrench to tighten.
Can't believe I'm just now finding your channel! Great content!
Thank you! And, thanks for watching!
Thank you for this honest update. For many hobby woodworker, especially those using hand tools, we are almost forced to come up with these affordable solutions to problems at times. These tool builds are helpful and inspiring. Also, you are to be commended on your humility in showing the "what didn't work" parts. This is a quality of character that is far too rare!
Thanks very much! I appreciate the compliment!
I need to make a dedicated drawer bottom plane like that makes it quick and accurate. 👍
That's why I did it! Got tired off having to set up a combination plane every time.
thanks
Nice... regarding the thumbscrews on the second tool; I've had a similar issue,on other items, and made a brass 'plug', flat on one end, and with a curve matching the 'rod' on the other end, so that you get a nice 'grab' on the rod, and no movement caused by the thumbscrew not being perfectly centered... it's also possible to put a point(truncated a bit) on the thumbscrew, so that it hits the middle of the rod, instead of 'riding along. The ejection port reminds me of a 'chip breaker on a lathe tool.
All good ideas! Thanks for watching!
I have the same problem with the rabbett plane I made using some of your design... I have made a few adjustments but I mostly just don't try to take as much material, and then it works fine. Interestingly, the antique wood grooving plane I have has exactly the same problem... so I think that fine tuning these items to the individual user must be fairly common. Good video.
I believe you're right! When I realized "it's ok" to modify tools you buy my whole world opened up. I think a lot of people are hesitant to modify tools because they think it should be perfect the way it is since it's a mass produced product, but that's not always the case. Same goes for vintage tools as well. All master artisans make and modify their tools to their liking. Thanks for watching!
Really interesting video
Thank you!
That is so talented yes keep them coming I am Learning so much
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
Amazing video! would you consider making a video demonstrating how to build a Japanese style saw vise? I can only find videos showing western variations that lock into a vice to secure the saw blade with outside clamping pressure. I love the Japanese style where the wood pivots in the middle so that a wedge inserted to the "bottom" jaws of the vise secure and clamp the blade in the top jaws. (Hopefully that explanation makes sense, even describing it well is elusive for me.)
edit: if anyone has any resources on this topic please send them my way!
Thanks for commenting! The Japanese version of a saw vise (Noko-hasami) is very basic and easy to make. Unfortunately, you need a good, wide piece of hard wood that won't warp (preferably laminated) and put the jaws out of parallel. With hard wood (all wood, actually!) being so expensive these days I don't really want to use the wood for a tool that I've already made. I did find two blogs from people here in Japan that have made them though. One uses what looks like screws at the pivot point, while the other uses some kind of lacing (the builder doesn't specify in the post). They say that they chose laminated oak for the jaws so that it would warp as little as possible, and that planes were used to created the steps on the inside of the jaw. From experience I know that using planes on this type of laminated oak is extremely difficult, but it can be done. One of the blog posts has a diagram with dimensions. It's in Japanese "sun," (pronounced like "soon" in English, but shorter) , but you can get an idea of the ratio. You can check out my video on the sashigane for a little more information on the sun unit of measurement. Here's the link to that vid: czcams.com/video/i__oDChKPzA/video.html
And, here are the links to the blog posts. blog.goo.ne.jp/ariari_1946/e/3b1ec6755ee84695c122dd96ad185ed3
mederu.blog62.fc2.com/blog-entry-5.html
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
@@TenonsTenors Thank you so much for this helpful response, I really appreciate it. I just stumbled across your channel the other day but based on this response and the videos I've already seen I'm eager to watch more!
@@elil8156 Thank you! I had a death in the family last year that threw me off track, but I hope to resume making videos in the near future. I appreciate the support!
最近見始めました！すごいですね
見てくれてありがとうございます！チャンネルを始めた当初は日本語版も作っていましたが、ちょっと時間的に無理がありましたので最近は作っていないです。でも、英語はお分かりのようなので心配ないですね！
Hi! I have a question about your custom grooving plane. What do you do if the groove you cut happens to be against the grain? There is no way to reverse the plane, so how do you manage? I guess the same goes for your #55, what do you do if you're trying to cut a molding and it goes against the grain?
With the grooving planes for drawers I make sure the drawer sides are going in the correct direction for planing before I lay out the joinery. For moldings,I just flip the piece of wood around. I never shape moldings that are already attached to something. You can get away with that with an electric router, but as you pointed out, with hand tools you have to plan a little further in advance when it comes to orienting wood grain. Thanks for watching!
@@TenonsTenors Thank you!
If you open the mouth of the plane, where the wedge it is, do not work ok ? Like old rabbet plane