Great video! 💪We all make mistakes 🤷♂️ the good thing is that you took a step back and assessed your issue and took care of it to keep moving. It turned out really nice 💯💯 great job!!
Hey Chris, really interesting video mate there are not many painters on here that will include the bad with the good so well done for showing where it went wrong 👏👌 We all make mistakes (I know I do😁) but it's having the skill to know when to stop and leave it overnight so the base is cured enough to sand ready for another coat, clear went on nice with the DV1 plus you have enough on there so you can denib and polish 👏👏🙏👍 John UK.
So after your final cleaning and tacking go around the edges of your plastic and give it a light shot of base aiming the gun away from the panel it will help lock down debris that may have landed.
Did you remove the door hinges to remove door or from the pins that are attached on hinges? I ask because I would imagine aligning door would be a nightmare if the actual hinges were removed. Thanks for the video. I'm motivated by your dedication.
Well, there are so many more things that went wrong for me: 1) Wrong paint and diluent ratio. Bought the paint at a specialized shop, also got a bucket of diluent. Saw some video on youtube of what the mixture should look like and poured way too less. Watched another video of how things look when painting (it needs to be wet), ended up spraying 500ml of paint in 3 coats on a goddamn mirror to achieve "wet" look. 2) Not waiting enough between base and clear. You gave those 3 thick layers of wet base? That especially combined with a wrong diluent ratio will cause the paint to dry a longer time (than the default 1hr). I sprayed clear coat too soon and got large pits since base coat didnt fully evaporate. 3) Spraying too much clear trying to "fix a run" Terrible idea, chances of actually making it better are slim (if thats your first time). You'll just spray a ton of clear and will have more to sand down 4) Not using a foam pad for an electric orbit sander I tried to sand down the massive blob of extra clear with a hard pad. It took me 30s to go with its edge down to bare metal. Basically ended up sanding the whole door, repriming and repainting 5) Not waiting enough for a failed job to dry Previous failed paint-job wasnt cured completely (it seemed so) and I sprayed some primer on top. When I sprayed new paint I got massive "paint biting" in some areas where I sanded the primer. The new paint probably reacted with old paint. 6) Compressor spewing wet air - simple "filter" does not cut it, the air still has a lot of moisture 7) Not checking my spray gun - if it doesnt spray completely straight (not clean enough), it will spray a bit on its edge. After some time enough paint accumulates there to just be blasted out onto your beautiful paint-job. 8) Clear coat going bad - I had my clearcoat sit in a closed can for two weeks and when I sprayed it onto my fender there was massive pitting everywhere. I didnt understand whats going on, but I came to this conclusion after spraying it on a ton of different surfaces with the same result. 9) Bad lighting - I had pretty bad lighting in my garage and noticed a lot of dry areas in daylight 10) Not wearing glasses - Lets just say you dont want that experience.
This is 2 years later but is there a reason you don't spray the floor with a bit of water to keep dust down? In my double garage I try to build a tent with plastic inside the garage and wet any of the concrete as a desperate effort to keep crap off the wet paint.
After many trials and tribulations, I learned the humidity build up in the garage isn’t worth it, when I can simply use the proper steps minimize trash in other ways . I have no extra windows and doors in my garage so airflow is a problem , which also happens to trap the humidity in the garage , effects are extended dry times, overspray accumulation, high humidity if I wet the floor, susceptible to paint solvent popped or having a dull finish
To mitigate wetting the floor however , I have used a 3m product , to hold down the dust even when the product dries . It’s called dust control spray. I spray it and let it dry , then spray it again , humidity builds for a short time but then seizes to exist when the product dries , yet still holds down the dust. Next prepping the surface by cleaning and tack ragging the surface along with static control methods have been the biggest remedy for paint inclusions.
just wow. Amazing video, love your setup. Trying to make something similar in my garage, can you please give me some advice in how you manage the ventilation/exhaust/filter.. idk how to say it. lol I mean I can see the fan in the garage door, but you have any complaints with your neighbors? with the overspray?
Thanks , so let’s see, my setup is unique to my current garage limitations but basically a strong fan to exhaust overspray out of the garage in less than a few minutes, ideally you would want an intake but I have solid walls on the other side so it’s hard to do that. I don’t have complaints because I paint at certain hours were most people aren’t home and they are away from my general area were overspray isn’t an issue. But if you are concerned I would try waterborne paint it doesn’t smell hardly at all and it’s mostly water . You would just need a way to dehydrate the paint like a blower or fan.
@@Mechaniclyfe yeah, it’s hard when you have certain limitations on your work area. But man, you’re making it work! I’m just worried if I try to paint with a fan like yours the clearcoat overspray sticks in the neighbors cars lol. Any ways, thanks for answering! Keep the hard work bro.
On the topic of final prep: ALWAYS buy the biggest box of gloves you can afford, and same with the blue shop towels. Gloves are mandatory when applying ANYTHING to the panel. Why? Oils from your hands or any part of your body that even grazes a panel will leave oil residue which will later show up as fisheyes. Paint won’t stick to oil, and that lack of bond is what causes the paint to form those circular spots. Kind of like water beading up on an oily surface, paint is beading up on that spot where it can’t stick. I see you doing a tack wipe without gloves. That’s like begging for fisheyes. More or that in a minute. Microfiber towels are hit and miss. Read the label carefully. If they are expensive and claim “lint free”, MAYBE you can use them for the final wipe down before application. Cheap ones may or may not leave lint as you showed. BUT I have found that microfiber towels, iF free of lint, are better than “paper” towels at grabbing debris, and moisture. After primer, a good microfiber, by my experience, can be a very effective “leveler” of paint or primer which has “landed dry”, by shearing off the tops of those dry patches without leaving sanding marks. Before any application I use microfiber and prepsol to get any potential dirt, oils, etc, from the surface. It requires a LIGHT solvent based cleaner to extract the things from the surface which shouldn’t be there. Too much solvent in the cleaner will ruin the prepped surface. Ideally the solvent will evaporate, but procedure calls for wiping until all residue is removed. Then on to the water based cleaner, where the blue and white glass cleaner cans are best, used with blue shop towels. Those shop towels don’t leave lint, are the perfect coarseness to clean without scratching, and since they are cheap and disposable, there is little chance of picking up a contaminated towel. The water borne glass cleaner is needed to remove any of the prepsol residue, and any final bits of debris. At this point we should be wearing a mask, because ALL OF US unknowingly project things from our mouths onto the surface which may cause fisheyes or other defects. At this point I will have had fans running for several hours to help get rid of any airborne debris/dust, and before that had vacuumed or swept up any I could find, then used a yard blower to dislodge and other dust from surfaces where a vacuum or broom might not get. This is usually done 12 hours or more before hand and left with fans on the rod airborne dust front e space. Before final wipe down I make the air still, only turning them back on JUST before painting. Filters on the incoming fans are CRUCIAL. About microfiber towels. They can be washed, but use cool water and low heat for the drying. Too much heat can cause slight melting if some if the fibers and leave some parts coarse enough to scratch the surface. Bad news. That mistake once put me back 12 hours of primer and prep. Ouch. On the subject of oils. The paint store person once told me to remove any and everything from the space which contains petroleum at all. All of it, even closed containers of motor oil, cans of WD40, all of it. I basically had complained of fisheyes even after cleaning like crazy. She said that the oil residues can become airborne for quite a long time and end up landing on your paint job even during the application process. So I found the biggest bin I could, filled it with every single product like that, even brake fluid bottles, EVERYTHING, caulk, all of it, even jacks and jackstands with residue in them, all went outside. Now, obviously the engine compartment and underside of the car will have those kinds of contaminants, so use the Foam tape between the hood and the engine compartment, and do your best to seal the rockers to the ground. Under the car is least likely to be bothered such that bits can become airborne, but airflow itself will go under the car, so take that into account. An old oil leak which left oil on the driveshaft May end up in your paint. The very next application I did after following her guidance resulted in ZERO fisheyes. Incredible. I basically use the rolled plastic to make a sealed environment for paint application, and spend hours and hours doing that just for 1/2 hour of spraying. Which is yet another subject. They say the best paint application is one big run and that is true. The fine line between runs and dry application is the stuff that separates the pros from the rest. The right humidity and speed of reducer all matters too. So many variables. A DIY but excellent application is a rare creature, yet we keep trying. It nearly drove me crazy last year. I stripped a hood down to bare steel at least ten times because of imperfections. Making the call between good enough for cut and buff or in need of a scuff and respray is a tough call too. Indeed the fine line between tooo many coats and enough to cut and buff is yet another problematic topic. I can do just about any craft, none of them perfectly, but generally as well as anyone I would hire. Plumbing, carpentry, masonry, mechanical, all good, as they all allow for some small mistakes. Not automotive painting. I have successfully corrected mistakes mid-spray, but those were a mix of lucky timing and experience. Other times a simple attempt to remove what seemed an easy nit or bug stuck became a full respray. This skill is quite daunting and can break you, financially and your spirit. What we see in pictures and video as “good paint jobs” is most often a flattering view of the subject. Getting it RIGHT without near perfect conditions with modern paints is extremely difficult. The nature of the paint and how it dries creates orange peel. Beat that with excellent application and prep and you are one in a thousand. I got a bumper “perfect”, in black no less, once. It looked like glass, no joke. I went outside and jumped around. Then, maybe because the paint was soooo smooth, the clear got some runs. I tried to fix the runs, but the part required a do over and I was not able to repeat that glassy application again. I am scientifically minded, and variables are my enemy. Regardless, this skill faces too many variables to get right every time, even in a perfect environment, like a zillion dollar downdraft booth. By the way, I used an old electric fan from a car’s radiator as a makeshift downdraft fan, pulling air down and under the car, channeled to exit the booth from under the car. This prevented airborne overspray from “landing dry” on surfaces, especially a hood. The result looked like a waterfall of airborne paint rushing downwards and away. It was effective at preventing dry landing overspray, but if not shut off immediately after application, made the top coat of paint dry too quickly by way of the rapid air movement across the panel, and caused problems where the first coats weren’t “cured” yet. An infrared heat lamp helps with this tremendously. I have used a heat lamp carefully applied, to turn an “acceptable” application into a much better finish simply by getting all of the coats dry at the correct rate. Crucial stuff. A first coat covered too quickly can bite your ass a month later. Ouch.
What's your specs on your compressor looks great btw I'm dealing with issues myself and have to fix them all we can do is rectify and keep moving forward 💯
thank you so much for this real life diy
No worries just trying to show how to overcome these obstacles that we all go thru rather pro or diy
Great video! 💪We all make mistakes 🤷♂️ the good thing is that you took a step back and assessed your issue and took care of it to keep moving. It turned out really nice 💯💯 great job!!
Thanks brother , we’ll get her buffed out and she’ll look like nothing ever happened . :)
@@Mechaniclyfe That's right 💪💯
Great tips Chris for us -thanks!
No worries Kurt hope you enjoyed
Well done Chris showing the pitfalls you got sucked in wanting to do it all in one hit
Yes sir, patience is key and this was sure testing my patience for sure
Always remember, nothing's perfect. Overall great results and effort.
Good job man. I can’t wait to paint my em1 this year in the Summer or spring time.
It’ll be a fun project for ya
Hey Chris, really interesting video mate there are not many painters on here that will include the bad with the good so well done for showing where it went wrong 👏👌
We all make mistakes (I know I do😁) but it's having the skill to know when to stop and leave it overnight so the base is cured enough to sand ready for another coat, clear went on nice with the DV1 plus you have enough on there so you can denib and polish 👏👏🙏👍 John UK.
Thanks John, yeah wanted to show the bad with the good . I think once we cut and buff those car will really start to pop
That’s one thing I learn the hard way test the gun off the panel every time looks good
Thanks bro, Something I’m now just coming to learn. I think we can get this buffed out and looking good.
Looks really good 👍
So after your final cleaning and tacking go around the edges of your plastic and give it a light shot of base aiming the gun away from the panel it will help lock down debris that may have landed.
honestly man it look great to be done in a garage
Thanks man appreciate it , it’s not easy spraying in a garage
Did you remove the door hinges to remove door or from the pins that are attached on hinges? I ask because I would imagine aligning door would be a nightmare if the actual hinges were removed. Thanks for the video. I'm motivated by your dedication.
The entire hinges since I mostly work by myself it seemed easier at the time for me
Nice vid. The paint looks really good. Just curious, what size compressor were you running?
I run a 30 gallon , kobalt 6.2 cfm compressor
Well, there are so many more things that went wrong for me:
1) Wrong paint and diluent ratio.
Bought the paint at a specialized shop, also got a bucket of diluent. Saw some video on youtube of what the mixture should look like and poured way too less. Watched another video of how things look when painting (it needs to be wet), ended up spraying 500ml of paint in 3 coats on a goddamn mirror to achieve "wet" look.
2) Not waiting enough between base and clear.
You gave those 3 thick layers of wet base? That especially combined with a wrong diluent ratio will cause the paint to dry a longer time (than the default 1hr). I sprayed clear coat too soon and got large pits since base coat didnt fully evaporate.
3) Spraying too much clear trying to "fix a run"
Terrible idea, chances of actually making it better are slim (if thats your first time). You'll just spray a ton of clear and will have more to sand down
4) Not using a foam pad for an electric orbit sander
I tried to sand down the massive blob of extra clear with a hard pad. It took me 30s to go with its edge down to bare metal. Basically ended up sanding the whole door, repriming and repainting
5) Not waiting enough for a failed job to dry
Previous failed paint-job wasnt cured completely (it seemed so) and I sprayed some primer on top. When I sprayed new paint I got massive "paint biting" in some areas where I sanded the primer. The new paint probably reacted with old paint.
6) Compressor spewing wet air - simple "filter" does not cut it, the air still has a lot of moisture
7) Not checking my spray gun - if it doesnt spray completely straight (not clean enough), it will spray a bit on its edge. After some time enough paint accumulates there to just be blasted out onto your beautiful paint-job.
8) Clear coat going bad - I had my clearcoat sit in a closed can for two weeks and when I sprayed it onto my fender there was massive pitting everywhere. I didnt understand whats going on, but I came to this conclusion after spraying it on a ton of different surfaces with the same result.
9) Bad lighting - I had pretty bad lighting in my garage and noticed a lot of dry areas in daylight
10) Not wearing glasses - Lets just say you dont want that experience.
Man respect i could not work In a 1 car garage
Definitely not the easiest thing to do
Good call explaining adhesion times
This is 2 years later but is there a reason you don't spray the floor with a bit of water to keep dust down? In my double garage I try to build a tent with plastic inside the garage and wet any of the concrete as a desperate effort to keep crap off the wet paint.
After many trials and tribulations, I learned the humidity build up in the garage isn’t worth it, when I can simply use the proper steps minimize trash in other ways . I have no extra windows and doors in my garage so airflow is a problem , which also happens to trap the humidity in the garage , effects are extended dry times, overspray accumulation, high humidity if I wet the floor, susceptible to paint solvent popped or having a dull finish
To mitigate wetting the floor however , I have used a 3m product , to hold down the dust even when the product dries . It’s called dust control spray. I spray it and let it dry , then spray it again , humidity builds for a short time but then seizes to exist when the product dries , yet still holds down the dust. Next prepping the surface by cleaning and tack ragging the surface along with static control methods have been the biggest remedy for paint inclusions.
just wow. Amazing video, love your setup.
Trying to make something similar in my garage, can you please give me some advice in how you manage the ventilation/exhaust/filter.. idk how to say it. lol
I mean I can see the fan in the garage door, but you have any complaints with your neighbors? with the overspray?
Thanks , so let’s see, my setup is unique to my current garage limitations but basically a strong fan to exhaust overspray out of the garage in less than a few minutes, ideally you would want an intake but I have solid walls on the other side so it’s hard to do that. I don’t have complaints because I paint at certain hours were most people aren’t home and they are away from my general area were overspray isn’t an issue. But if you are concerned I would try waterborne paint it doesn’t smell hardly at all and it’s mostly water . You would just need a way to dehydrate the paint like a blower or fan.
@@Mechaniclyfe yeah, it’s hard when you have certain limitations on your work area. But man, you’re making it work!
I’m just worried if I try to paint with a fan like yours the clearcoat overspray sticks in the neighbors cars lol.
Any ways, thanks for answering! Keep the hard work bro.
Good result anyway! You just need another extra 20 gal extra tank for air volume and you will fine .
For sure I’ve been wanting to do that modification for a while now
On the topic of final prep: ALWAYS buy the biggest box of gloves you can afford, and same with the blue shop towels. Gloves are mandatory when applying ANYTHING to the panel. Why? Oils from your hands or any part of your body that even grazes a panel will leave oil residue which will later show up as fisheyes. Paint won’t stick to oil, and that lack of bond is what causes the paint to form those circular spots. Kind of like water beading up on an oily surface, paint is beading up on that spot where it can’t stick. I see you doing a tack wipe without gloves. That’s like begging for fisheyes. More or that in a minute. Microfiber towels are hit and miss. Read the label carefully. If they are expensive and claim “lint free”, MAYBE you can use them for the final wipe down before application. Cheap ones may or may not leave lint as you showed. BUT I have found that microfiber towels, iF free of lint, are better than “paper” towels at grabbing debris, and moisture. After primer, a good microfiber, by my experience, can be a very effective “leveler” of paint or primer which has “landed dry”, by shearing off the tops of those dry patches without leaving sanding marks. Before any application I use microfiber and prepsol to get any potential dirt, oils, etc, from the surface. It requires a LIGHT solvent based cleaner to extract the things from the surface which shouldn’t be there. Too much solvent in the cleaner will ruin the prepped surface. Ideally the solvent will evaporate, but procedure calls for wiping until all residue is removed. Then on to the water based cleaner, where the blue and white glass cleaner cans are best, used with blue shop towels. Those shop towels don’t leave lint, are the perfect coarseness to clean without scratching, and since they are cheap and disposable, there is little chance of picking up a contaminated towel. The water borne glass cleaner is needed to remove any of the prepsol residue, and any final bits of debris. At this point we should be wearing a mask, because ALL OF US unknowingly project things from our mouths onto the surface which may cause fisheyes or other defects. At this point I will have had fans running for several hours to help get rid of any airborne debris/dust, and before that had vacuumed or swept up any I could find, then used a yard blower to dislodge and other dust from surfaces where a vacuum or broom might not get. This is usually done 12 hours or more before hand and left with fans on the rod airborne dust front e space. Before final wipe down I make the air still, only turning them back on JUST before painting. Filters on the incoming fans are CRUCIAL. About microfiber towels. They can be washed, but use cool water and low heat for the drying. Too much heat can cause slight melting if some if the fibers and leave some parts coarse enough to scratch the surface. Bad news. That mistake once put me back 12 hours of primer and prep. Ouch. On the subject of oils. The paint store person once told me to remove any and everything from the space which contains petroleum at all. All of it, even closed containers of motor oil, cans of WD40, all of it. I basically had complained of fisheyes even after cleaning like crazy. She said that the oil residues can become airborne for quite a long time and end up landing on your paint job even during the application process. So I found the biggest bin I could, filled it with every single product like that, even brake fluid bottles, EVERYTHING, caulk, all of it, even jacks and jackstands with residue in them, all went outside. Now, obviously the engine compartment and underside of the car will have those kinds of contaminants, so use the Foam tape between the hood and the engine compartment, and do your best to seal the rockers to the ground. Under the car is least likely to be bothered such that bits can become airborne, but airflow itself will go under the car, so take that into account. An old oil leak which left oil on the driveshaft May end up in your paint. The very next application I did after following her guidance resulted in ZERO fisheyes. Incredible. I basically use the rolled plastic to make a sealed environment for paint application, and spend hours and hours doing that just for 1/2 hour of spraying. Which is yet another subject. They say the best paint application is one big run and that is true. The fine line between runs and dry application is the stuff that separates the pros from the rest. The right humidity and speed of reducer all matters too. So many variables. A DIY but excellent application is a rare creature, yet we keep trying. It nearly drove me crazy last year. I stripped a hood down to bare steel at least ten times because of imperfections. Making the call between good enough for cut and buff or in need of a scuff and respray is a tough call too. Indeed the fine line between tooo many coats and enough to cut and buff is yet another problematic topic. I can do just about any craft, none of them perfectly, but generally as well as anyone I would hire. Plumbing, carpentry, masonry, mechanical, all good, as they all allow for some small mistakes. Not automotive painting. I have successfully corrected mistakes mid-spray, but those were a mix of lucky timing and experience. Other times a simple attempt to remove what seemed an easy nit or bug stuck became a full respray. This skill is quite daunting and can break you, financially and your spirit. What we see in pictures and video as “good paint jobs” is most often a flattering view of the subject. Getting it RIGHT without near perfect conditions with modern paints is extremely difficult. The nature of the paint and how it dries creates orange peel. Beat that with excellent application and prep and you are one in a thousand. I got a bumper “perfect”, in black no less, once. It looked like glass, no joke. I went outside and jumped around. Then, maybe because the paint was soooo smooth, the clear got some runs. I tried to fix the runs, but the part required a do over and I was not able to repeat that glassy application again. I am scientifically minded, and variables are my enemy. Regardless, this skill faces too many variables to get right every time, even in a perfect environment, like a zillion dollar downdraft booth. By the way, I used an old electric fan from a car’s radiator as a makeshift downdraft fan, pulling air down and under the car, channeled to exit the booth from under the car. This prevented airborne overspray from “landing dry” on surfaces, especially a hood. The result looked like a waterfall of airborne paint rushing downwards and away. It was effective at preventing dry landing overspray, but if not shut off immediately after application, made the top coat of paint dry too quickly by way of the rapid air movement across the panel, and caused problems where the first coats weren’t “cured” yet. An infrared heat lamp helps with this tremendously. I have used a heat lamp carefully applied, to turn an “acceptable” application into a much better finish simply by getting all of the coats dry at the correct rate. Crucial stuff. A first coat covered too quickly can bite your ass a month later. Ouch.
You have the door getting overspray 😢😢
Thats true bro
What's your specs on your compressor looks great btw I'm dealing with issues myself and have to fix them all we can do is rectify and keep moving forward 💯
True that, my compressor is a 30 gallon with 6.2 scfm
I am amazed at what you do in that tiny space. If you have the knowledge and tools why not get a liitle warehouse bay to work?
Thanks man , I’ve been trying for years but it’s very expensive in this area I’d have to find somewhere cheap to rent which would be far
That will easily cut and buff bud look at the results of that roof
That’s true , I think the roof was a bit cleaner I feel . We shall see when the paint cures enough to cut and buff
90 bucks for dust control hly shiznit!!! i will still too free water lol
So when your fan is on, are you concerned with paint getting on neighbors cars?
Of course , but it doesn’t reach that far since they aren’t very close to the garage , looks closer than it actually is
@@Mechaniclyfe thanks I'm painting next weekend and was a bit concerned myself.
You should be ok with enough distance from cars
@@Mechaniclyfe what do you think enough distance should be?
Atleast 20 feet
3 2 1 on the base to lay down flatter
Thanks for the tip
😃😃👍👏👌👌