Another informative tutorial from the ol master of this hobby !!! I can guaran (damn) tee you the ol lone wolf has been there done that heard it and seen it all . So pay attention for Don's advice is a time saver .
I have been watching your videos for quite some time now! I appreciate the time & energy you put into each video, and I know that you are passionate about what you do. To be completely honest, I may not always agree with everything you suggest? Not to say that you are wrong, but to maybe say that it might not apply to what I'm doing, building wise. That is you're a show winner, with many trophies to your credit! I am a model builder, who builds race cars & such. I do not even go into as much detail as you do. But I do learn something new with every video! So again, thank you so much for the knowledge in all of these videos. And thank you for setting standards & conditions for being on this forum! "Meaning about the bullying", some attempted to do back in some of your earlier videos! There's already too much division as it is going on in the world, people shouldn't get it on social media too! God bless you old man... Keep truckin'!
100% on point! That's the exact same way I was trained to use paints on real cars in the body shop I used to work at. I bet you have fun when others try to discredit you too! lol
I just wanted to say thankyou, I applied your body prep and sanding technique to my Revell 67 Corvette and it came out really nice, there was just something about the finish that looked smoother and more real, best result i have got period. (I used zero paints laquer and Iwata air brush.)
Sage advice from experience. After anyone gets expertise in anything favorites seem to go away. It seems to become choices, options, and good or bad. Good answer - "I like them both and here's why". Thanks for sharing
You mentioned the "long" dry times for the enamel. This is generally only a problem for builders that are in a rush or get impatient. Sometimes, my single projects can go on for several months. I find that trying to rush through a build can cause mistakes or problems that need to be repaired in the future. Often, my sprayed enamel can sit for a couple weeks before I even handle them.
Thanks, that was very helpful. My gut instinct was to use enamels for the body and I guess that was a good idea after all. Fairly new at this. I've also tried acrylics with a future floor polish clear coat and the results are quite different but in some ways very satisfying but not glossy like the bods you showed us here. I guess it depends on what you're shooting for looks-wise. An old beat up pick up? I'd use acrylics. A nice looking '68 Camero? Definitely enamel. Thanks for the excellent advice. I think I'll stay away from lacquers for the most part then unless it's the only way I can get the color I want.
Could not agree more. I'm a lacquer guy myself but mostly because I prefer a thinner layer of paint. I feel it shows helps show off the details on the model. But like you said the body work has to be dead on.
Great tips old man! I'm also an old man - pretty sure I'm older than you. A while back you tried Gravity colors - do you still recommend? - any caveats?
Hey, Don. Love the vids. For the white striped blue car, would it be viable to paint the white first, then, mask out the stripe and shoot the rest with blue in this sort of additive painting process?
Great tips as always! I have noticed that you seem to have an endless supply of Testors enamel paint. Do you just have a large stash squirreled away now that Testors is out of the paint making business?
Regardless of what Testors was spouting about their future plans for their paint line , I saw the train wreck coming long before they hit the wall . I had quite a bit on stock in the shop and bought up large quantities to add to it while it was still available. I warned others of what was to come and was ridiculed for it by quite a few modelers . Sadly enough , my prediction was spot on … The bright side of the equation is that MCW Finishes stepped up and produced an excellent enamel line for us .
Great explanation. Few questions if do you don't mind. When you are talking about enamel, are you referring like oil based enamel like Rustoleum? I have a 66 VW beetle that I want to paint. I hate dealing with 2k products because of Isocyanate. Was thinking to use Oil based enamel. Will that gives a good shine and last? The car will be in a garage 90% of the time. If so, what should I use lacquer thinner instead of acetone or mineral sprit? What brand of enamel are you recommending?
Hi man , I have used m.r lacquer levelling thinner with various enamels thinned 1/1 and they all came out ridiculously glossy and dried as fast as a straight lacquer, but I was using enamels for added strength .
Good morning this is Sunday morning got a question for you using testers color shift,. After Paint cure, can I put a clear tester clear enamel over it? Black basecoat purple sunrise. Can paint. also shooting a model in lacquer do I need to use a lacquer primer if I’m shooting lacquer paint can I use a enamel flat primer for a basecoat if spraying lacquer topcoat paint I cannot find any Testor lacquer primer can I use Tamaya primer?
Any recommendation for a 1/8th scale corvette acrylics or enamels. After seeing you videos would really like your advice never used an airbrush on something this big
I do not use Mr Color products , never really had a need to . I use the SunnySide lacquer thinner with Mike’s product line at a 2:1 paint to thinner ratio .
No such thing as a bad question, I have used m.r levelling thinner at a 1/1 ratio , I paint large trucks and car bodies and it works flawlessly on small things too.
🛵 I arctic blued a 49 ford where i shaved off the trim spear. On one side it showed up after painting. My glosscoats always fail and i washed it off and took the opportunity to sand it with extreme prejudice. 240 grit to start. After a Duplicolor attempt the line was still there. ------
@@ScaleModelTechniques hmm i think polyurethane is the best glossy paint. do you ever tried using paint gloss meter? to see which paint surface is more gloss.
@@ScaleModelTechniques thank you. I am learning to use enamels. I live in Florida and even with your tricks it still stays tacky after 3 days. I love the fact you don't need a clear coat, but it is a tradeoff. Thank you for your videos. Keep up the amazing work!
@@samfisherkiller The southern states are tougher due to heat and humidity . A dehydrator might help you out with the drying / flashing out , period of time .
It's pretty much like you said, if you know what you are doing any type of paint can yield fantastic paint jobs today. So you still don't know that there are automotive grade waterborne paints yet?You do *amazing* work Donn, but I would be willing to compare my best water-based paint jobs to yours. And I still want to meet you one of these days...
The water borne automotive paints are a high risk factor to the health and well being of the painter . To each their own when it comes to paint preferences, I’ll stick with what I know and what I have been using for decades . Lord knows , I have enough of it to keep me building for years to come ……
@@ScaleModelTechniques That may be true on a professional, high-exposure level (and that will be true for any paint type), but in the tiny amounts hobbyists use (with appropriate protection of course) the risks are minimal. If you use bondo, evercoat, 2K clear or any catalyzed materials the risks of isocyanate exposure are much higher risk than any waterborne paint. If you know otherwise, I am willing to learn more about what you know.
Is that right. Lacquer paint has always had the absolute best shine. There is no paint that shines like lacquer. I know you're just a model guy but as a automotive painter that's been painting for 30 years I will say there is nothing that outshines laquer
Don, great video as always but u always have some annoying sounds in the background, id suggest to turn off what ever is making that noise very hard to hear u
That would be the furnace … Turning off the furnace would be placing my physical well being in jeopardy as The Blonde’s sense of humor only stretches so far …..
RIP Old Man....
Good to hear proven techniques from a modeler thats been around the block!👍
Jman
Thanks Donn. I appreciate your fundamental fridays.👍👍
Another informative tutorial from the ol master of this hobby !!! I can guaran (damn) tee you the ol lone wolf has been there done that heard it and seen it all . So pay attention for Don's advice is a time saver .
I have been watching your videos for quite some time now!
I appreciate the time & energy you put into each video, and I
know that you are passionate about what you do. To be completely
honest, I may not always agree with everything you suggest?
Not to say that you are wrong, but to maybe say that it might
not apply to what I'm doing, building wise. That is you're a show
winner, with many trophies to your credit! I am a model builder,
who builds race cars & such. I do not even go into as much
detail as you do. But I do learn something new with every video!
So again, thank you so much for the knowledge in all of these
videos. And thank you for setting standards & conditions for
being on this forum! "Meaning about the bullying", some attempted
to do back in some of your earlier videos! There's already too
much division as it is going on in the world, people shouldn't
get it on social media too! God bless you old man... Keep truckin'!
100% on point! That's the exact same way I was trained to use paints on real cars in the body shop I used to work at.
I bet you have fun when others try to discredit you too! lol
I just wanted to say thankyou, I applied your body prep and sanding technique to my Revell 67 Corvette and it came out really nice, there was just something about the finish that looked smoother and more real, best result i have got period. (I used zero paints laquer and Iwata air brush.)
Wow Don this is really a great series, thanks.
You're always the number 1, thank you man..
Thank you Paint tips long time ago are used to work with my dad on model T Ford’s we paint them in lacquer and between each coat we would wet sanded
Very informative tip Donn, Thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend. Terry
Really cool thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend 👊🤘👍
Great video and tips. Many thanks from Nova Scotia...
Awesome video and tips!!!
Sage advice from experience. After anyone gets expertise in anything favorites seem to go away. It seems to become choices, options, and good or bad. Good answer - "I like them both and here's why". Thanks for sharing
Nice tips. Very useful information. Thanks for sharing.
You mentioned the "long" dry times for the enamel. This is generally only a problem for builders that are in a rush or get impatient.
Sometimes, my single projects can go on for several months. I find that trying to rush through a build can cause mistakes or
problems that need to be repaired in the future. Often, my sprayed enamel can sit for a couple weeks before I even handle them.
use dehydrator.
@@Youbite That's not the point they're trying to make
Awesome Tips Old Man 🤗🤗, a Blessed Wknd To ALL 👍👍, Gary.
Very helpful, thanks!
Have a good weekend... thanks for the tips.
Cool 😎 have a great weekend!!
Excellent content!
Great advice as always … thanks for doing these videos! ~Don
Thank you !
Thank you.
Thanks, that was very helpful. My gut instinct was to use enamels for the body and I guess that was a good idea after all. Fairly new at this. I've also tried acrylics with a future floor polish clear coat and the results are quite different but in some ways very satisfying but not glossy like the bods you showed us here. I guess it depends on what you're shooting for looks-wise. An old beat up pick up? I'd use acrylics. A nice looking '68 Camero? Definitely enamel. Thanks for the excellent advice. I think I'll stay away from lacquers for the most part then unless it's the only way I can get the color I want.
Thank you my friend
Too bad I can't outsource my model car bodies to you for painting. You do fantastic work.
Thanks for the game Og rest easy
Another Great video Don!!! I'll go either way myself. Just depends on who makes the color I'm looking for. Hope you had a Great weekend
one might say you are ... ac/dc (with paint types)
Miss this guy and his videos
Could not agree more. I'm a lacquer guy myself but mostly because I prefer a thinner layer of paint. I feel it shows helps show off the details on the model. But like you said the body work has to be dead on.
Great advice
Do you put bare metal on the badges before you paint or no?
Great tips old man! I'm also an old man - pretty sure I'm older than you. A while back you tried Gravity colors - do you still recommend? - any caveats?
Very informative Donn. Thank you for all the great information you share. Do you still do outside model paint jobs for clients. I'm very interested.
He is no longer with us
Hey, Don. Love the vids.
For the white striped blue car, would it be viable to paint the white first, then, mask out the stripe and shoot the rest with blue in this sort of additive painting process?
Yes , light color first , mask off after it has flashed , then shoot the darker color on .
Great tips as always! I have noticed that you seem to have an endless supply of Testors enamel paint. Do you just have a large stash squirreled away now that Testors is out of the paint making business?
Regardless of what Testors was spouting about their future plans for their paint line , I saw the train wreck coming long before they hit the wall . I had quite a bit on stock in the shop and bought up large quantities to add to it while it was still available. I warned others of what was to come and was ridiculed for it by quite a few modelers . Sadly enough , my prediction was spot on … The bright side of the equation is that MCW Finishes stepped up and produced an excellent enamel line for us .
Question on the Chrome finish for the vett is that Bare metal foil cleared over with the gloss coat or applied after?
I never seal the foil with clear . It is always applied after the clear coat has been laid down and then polished out .
👍👍👍
Do you have a favorite wet sanding sponge?
Micro Mesh rubber backed sanding cloths .
Rip my man
Great explanation. Few questions if do you don't mind.
When you are talking about enamel, are you referring like oil based enamel like Rustoleum?
I have a 66 VW beetle that I want to paint. I hate dealing with 2k products because of Isocyanate. Was thinking to use Oil based enamel. Will that gives a good shine and last? The car will be in a garage 90% of the time. If so, what should I use lacquer thinner instead of acetone or mineral sprit?
What brand of enamel are you recommending?
Hi man , I have used m.r lacquer levelling thinner with various enamels thinned 1/1 and they all came out ridiculously glossy and dried as fast as a straight lacquer, but I was using enamels for added strength .
Where did you get that Brush caddy? Cant find one anywhere, Thanks
I have one just like it that I got from Micro Mark years ago but I bet they still carry it.
is that acrylic enamel im guessing 🤔
What is that ratio?
Good morning this is Sunday morning got a question for you using testers color shift,. After Paint cure, can I put a clear tester clear enamel over it? Black basecoat purple sunrise. Can paint. also shooting a model in lacquer do I need to use a lacquer primer if I’m shooting lacquer paint can I use a enamel flat primer for a basecoat if spraying lacquer topcoat paint I cannot find any Testor lacquer primer can I use Tamaya primer?
Let's talk about white noise and it's negative effect on Video production....
Any recommendation for a 1/8th scale corvette acrylics or enamels. After seeing you videos would really like your advice never used an airbrush on something this big
Enamel …..
Thank you
What is your mix ratio for MCW enamel paint to Mr Color levelling thinner?
I do not use Mr Color products , never really had a need to . I use the SunnySide lacquer thinner with Mike’s product line at a 2:1 paint to thinner ratio .
Just a pity there isn't much choice for enamel paints in the UK.
Subtítulos en español...¡¡ please!! 👍🇲🇽........ saludos
I'M about to do my first car in 40 years slow and easy i'm doing it wish me luck BacK Then all there was was rattle cans
I gotta be 'that guy' and ask what your ratio with cheap lacquer thinner and testors enamel is?
No such thing as a bad question, I have used m.r levelling thinner at a 1/1 ratio , I paint large trucks and car bodies and it works flawlessly on small things too.
🛵 I arctic blued a 49 ford where i shaved off the trim spear. On one side it showed up after painting. My glosscoats always fail and i washed it off and took the opportunity to sand it with extreme prejudice. 240 grit to start. After a Duplicolor attempt the line was still there. ------
What's that noise
All found to be true by my own mistakes. Thank you.
Hello, I'm from Brazil and I just discovered your channel and I'm already written. I would like to ask you, why don't you use polyester paint?
In my opinion , they do not produce a stellar finish ….
@@ScaleModelTechniques Thanks for the reply, I imagined polyester paint had the best stellar finish.
@@ScaleModelTechniques hmm i think polyurethane is the best glossy paint. do you ever tried using paint gloss meter? to see which paint surface is more gloss.
What are your thoughts on water based paints?
For model railroading , yes , although it is still not my preference . To use it on my model cars ? An emphatic , No !
@@ScaleModelTechniques thank you. I am learning to use enamels. I live in Florida and even with your tricks it still stays tacky after 3 days. I love the fact you don't need a clear coat, but it is a tradeoff.
Thank you for your videos. Keep up the amazing work!
@@samfisherkiller The southern states are tougher due to heat and humidity . A dehydrator might help you out with the drying / flashing out , period of time .
It's pretty much like you said, if you know what you are doing any type of paint can yield fantastic paint jobs today. So you still don't know that there are automotive grade waterborne paints yet?You do *amazing* work Donn, but I would be willing to compare my best water-based paint jobs to yours. And I still want to meet you one of these days...
The water borne automotive paints are a high risk factor to the health and well being of the painter . To each their own when it comes to paint preferences, I’ll stick with what I know and what I have been using for decades . Lord knows , I have enough of it to keep me building for years to come ……
@@ScaleModelTechniques That may be true on a professional, high-exposure level (and that will be true for any paint type), but in the tiny amounts hobbyists use (with appropriate protection of course) the risks are minimal. If you use bondo, evercoat, 2K clear or any catalyzed materials the risks of isocyanate exposure are much higher risk than any waterborne paint. If you know otherwise, I am willing to learn more about what you know.
damn, Henry Rollins aged well!
Sad Rip
Is that right. Lacquer paint has always had the absolute best shine. There is no paint that shines like lacquer. I know you're just a model guy but as a automotive painter that's been painting for 30 years I will say there is nothing that outshines laquer
RIP
Don, great video as always but u always have some annoying sounds in the background, id suggest to turn off what ever is making that noise very hard to hear u
That would be the furnace …
Turning off the furnace would be placing my physical well being in jeopardy as The Blonde’s sense of humor only stretches so far …..
may I suggest ... Not to suggest
Sorry, your tutorials are really great, but the noise from whatever is in the background is just too much:):(
Fred it's the food dehydration model car paint dryer
Very condescending! Thumbs down!,!!