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Thank you so much for that info. What type or kind of sandpaper should I start out with, then finish with through the process? I'm new to the game and my first project will be a 57 Chevy Bel air, and I just got that in. 😊

I wouldn't have believed it if I had not seen this demonstration. I'm going to give it a try

And what is the best glue to use when you are building my model

What kind of glue do you use for windows

Still can't believe the ol man is gone. R.I.P boss!

It depends on the paint you use. I use Createx paint and sealers. They recommend no finer than 400 grit to give the sealer a good bite on the surface. I follow their recommendations, and the the paint jobs come out great.

Thanks for this advice! 👍🏼👍🏼 I’m new to the hobby

Use clear UV curing 3d printer resin. A dab to the frame in a couple spots the set your windows in and hit wirh UV light. Done.

Rip Donn. I hope your life partner, Jake can find peace.

Rustoleum burned me once. I switched over to Duplicolor or similar automotive urethanes. Never looked back and no paint issues.

2X clear bites into the color coat and possibly the plastic itself…..not “2K” as he stated. Common mistake.

Rest in peace you will be missed❤

You will be missed my friend. Rest in peace❤

Rest in peace

Not going to argue and say that rustoleum is good paint for plastic models by any stretch but I am going to correct him when he said that rustoleum bonds and "melts into the plastic". Maybe he misspoke. Semantics. I get it. But I know it doesn't literally melt the plastic because I have screwed up paint jobs with Rust-Oleum numerous times and have stripped the same models back down to the plastic no problem. No melted plastic. Going to miss this guy being around. I've learned a lot from him May he rest in peace

I vebeen daying the same for years use paint made for plastic models, not rust oleum, duplicolor, or any other automotive finishes. Ive been building models since the 60s. I always used enamels. Or now tamiya products.

I can't believe he's gone

miss your videos donn, i use the paasche h series great workhorse easy to use/clean,you taught me to be a better painter! RIP

I bought some BMF from Donn years ago at a PMSI model show In Hampton VA. Jake..Hats off to You buddy for keeping these videos going. RIP DONN...The Model car community misses you.

Oh ive.just read the comments its sad to hear the gentlemans death. Im so sorry to hear.

I love the variety of models from AMT!

It's a NO BRAINER! What's wrong with people! Thanks for putting out the facts!!! We wet sand metallic and pearls and then shoot 2K ultra high gloss on 50K movie RC aircraft every day and you see our work in Movies and TV shows worldwide. Great Video.

Learn a lot from this craftsman. Thank you for all your videos and wisdom. God bless old man.

You can completely paint strip a painted model with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Without damaging the plastic. Acrylics come off faster. A bit of soaking and a soft brush will take of lacquers. I never tried on enamels. It does not damage the plastics so if you have to remove it is worth a shot.

Never had a problem with Rustoleum brush paint on metal furniture. I am a outdoor model railroader & have only used Krylon spray paint to paint freight cars. Never had a problem spraying Krylon on plastic styrene 1:20.3 scale model freight cars. They still hold up under all kinds of weather. In my HO club Krylon is used on large buildings, e.g. steel mills, coking plants, sky scrapers, etc... No problems on plastic. No paint smell (Krylon also makes a water based paint). Krylon also has a UV resistant clear coat, great for outdoor models.

Thank you for this video! its 5 years old and still helping folks. After spending weeks paint matching a damage kitchen door in gloss grey, I finally found a match from Tikkurila. I then primed with light grey high built primer with LVLP gun, sanded and sprayed the gloss grey, thinned 10% with white spirits. The results were a much darker grey than that the paint chip I had matched was. I was stumped! tried polishing it out, buffing to try lighten it, nothing worked. I went back to the drawing board, sanded with 320, roughed up my beautiful gloss finish and primed with yellow car high build primer. The restuls were a much better paint match, the gloss grey from the same tin, thinned 10% again is now 99% the same as the paint chip. I tested with white primer on a spare MDF board, again the gloss grey is 99.9% the same. It is insane how the primer colour affects the base/top coat so much, even with a thick gloss paint which I would expect to hide the prime coat. I was told on another form to try purple tinted primer to get where I needed to be with the kitchen door paint matching but TBH yellow and white primer done it for me. Take note that mid grey primer with mid grey gloss base/top coat will turns the finish very dark.

The old kits tend to be junk. The body is the easy part. The frames etc. Can be a nightmare.

Good morning this is Sunday morning got a question for you using testers color shift,. After Paint cure, can I put a clear tester clear enamel over it? Black basecoat purple sunrise. Can paint. also shooting a model in lacquer do I need to use a lacquer primer if I’m shooting lacquer paint can I use a enamel flat primer for a basecoat if spraying lacquer topcoat paint I cannot find any Testor lacquer primer can I use Tamaya primer?

I built models for years with Rust-Oleum with no issues as long as you clean the parts first with Simple Green.

Thank you. I've been wanting to learn how to do this

Hey Don, I have a question for you. I’m painting a metallic orange lacquer Tamia. Should I use a medium gray or a black primer?

No comment.

I'm also glad his fantastic help and information is still available. Donn's videos are my go to source whenever I have a question about something or can't remember.....which happens a lot anymore...Thanks again for keeping it here and still having DVDs available. God bless his family.

Great info ! Thanks Man👍👊

Edit: Awh damn. Just saw he hadn't uploaded in over a year and saw he passed away last summer from brain cancer. Make sure you keep yourselves safe working with all these chemicals y'all. Obviously there's no way to know if that's what caused it but its a good warning nonetheless. Awesome video. But my god man, your poor lungs spraying all that enamel inside without a respirator or spray booth.

Good job! You do great work ' ol man!

Kit bashing is all I know. Since I'm stuck in the '60s Gasser era, I notice & record which parts come from a particular kit (examples - the Revell Anglia w/ the early Olds motor . . . those fenderwell headers match up great on the Chev 409s & you get the skinny Pirellis in those Revell kits. Most user friendly piecrust slicks that weren't cracked on the sidewall & looked super clean were discovered on a 1/24 DIECAST Maisto Ford Thunderbolt). Chassis swaps can be majorly rewarding (w/ difficulties expected) but if something stands out & tells you the kit components aren't to your liking, sometimes the solutions can be simple as with the MPC tilt front '57 Chev . . . if one preferred to drop the back end down to level out the ride height, that chassis is better off being swapped out for a more realistic stock Tri-Five chassis. Continue & build from scratch what you need which seems like 20% of the parts but 80% of your time like correcting block details, extending oil pan sumps, recessing firewalls. FUN,FUN,FUN !!!!

what grits do you use

If you make a mistake have Super Clean on hand. Its about $10 for a gallon. Pour some in a large enough container and let the model soak. Use a toothbrush to help remove the paint every hour or so. It may leave a little bit on the model but you will primer it anyway. Just did it last night.

I haven't used Morgan's distributors yet simply because I was pleased w/ Norm's caps @ Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland. They are the common towered variant like most traditional caps & have blind holes in them but I elect to drill through to the underside then create my own aluminum body. In the past I've received distributor/magneto wires that I felt were too glossy so gently sanding w/1500 grit lengthwise resolved that issue. Reminder for other builders : multiply 1 mm (.03937) x 7, 8 or 9 (depending on era / stock or later era race wires ) & divide by your scale (25 example) to figure your wire O.D. if you order your own wrapping wire. One source is Jonard - should be list online for outer diameters. 1/25 = .012 to .015 MAX !! 30 gauge is for 1/18 scale so you need a higher number (smaller dia.) for 1/25.

Anybody notice that the B&M Hydromatic in this kit (actually the bell) has a GM (Chev) bolt pattern behind the early Hemi ?? Suspect the pattern was copied off a vehicle w/ an adapter plate.

Bla bla bla…..

Thank you, Hope to see you at NNL East

Rip in peace kind sir you have taught me so much about modeling. 🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️🕊️

Great video! So I have a dark navy blue pearl vehcile I’m getting ready to paint and re clear because it’s peeling and it looks like the gray or dark gray primer will be needed the original paint is about 20 years old

Have you done a video of how you chrome you window seals?

Should’ve seen this a couple hours ago

Miss this guy and his videos

Tamiya & Testors always works well for me.

I usually use easy off ovem cleaner to remove paint