How to Change a Shower Arm
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- čas přidán 28. 04. 2014
- Is your shower arm worn out or broken, the finish doesn't match your other fixtures, or you just want a new style? Watch as our go-to guy, Mike, shows you how to remove your old shower arm and install a brand new one. He'll cover tips for getting your shower arm out of the wall without breaking anything and what to do if the arm does get broken, as well as the easiest way to ensure your new shower arm is properly installed and won't leak.
Pick up brand new shower arms here: www.plumbingsupply.com/shower... - Jak na to + styl
This tutorial was a life saver. My husband passed away last year and was Mr. Fix It. I've been determined to do these household projects on my own and your video helped me do just that. Thank you so much!
Sorry for your loss
Mike did a great job explaining how to change the shower arm. The only thing I would have liked to see was the inside of the wall with a flash light before the new arm was attached.
I do not know why I am so paranoid about this... I think it is because I understand how much new damage can be done if this leaks. I may bite the bullet and give it a shot. Earlier in the day so I can call for help if need.
Thanks Mike! I'll be sure to check out ur other videos.
I would think it probably wise to turn on the water before placing the decorative plate and using a flashlight or finger to inspect the fitting for leaks. Otherwise, you might have a small leak that can grow mold and destroy the framing in the coming months. There is no guarantee the leak will run down the arm and become apparent.
That's what I thought you did. I want to do this right because I have an abnormal fear of water leaks. lol
Thank you Dave for showing both the removal and replacing of the parts.
Great video! I watched the video because the replacement was leaking inside the wall. I saw from your video that I did not use enough tape. (I only wrapped it around once.) Now it looks like it's working fine!
Thanks you so much. I wanted to change my shower arm and head to a gold tone set, but was afraid to attempt it. After watching your video I gathered what I needed and did it in 15 minutes.
Thanks Mike for showing the entire process (removal to install). Right to the point!
Thanks for the video. Feeling pretty accomplished here I just replaced the shower arm and shower head in my bathroom!
We've had a few questions lately about what to do with a stubborn shower arm. We recommend using a good pipe wrench (and maybe a little WD-40) - which, under normal circumstances, should help you get the shower arm out. However, there are some factors (rust, inappropriately used sealing agents, etc.) that may mean you simply won't be able to budge the shower arm without going into the wall. In these situations, we strongly recommend calling in a plumber to help you avoid the possibility of costly damage to the pipes behind the wall or the wall itself.
It's a GOOD IDEA to cover any vulnerable areas of the tub's surface below with something like cardboard or bubblewrap to protect the tub's finish were a tool or metal part dropped by accident .
Great job! Thanks for posting!
Very helpful. Thanks, it was easy with your step by step guide.
Very helpful, thanks from Australia
Thanks for the video, just as I was looking for.
Thanks for the video. Simple task!!
HI Mike, Thank you so very much for your great video. I have been without the shower in my master bedroom for over a month due to a leak coming from my shower arm. I watched your video this morning, went to Home Depot to get parts and I fixed the arm with no problem. I appreciate your step by step instructions that make it easy for people who are not plumbers to fix their problems. THANK YOU!
+Tammy Chorman, you are very welcome! :)
thanks for this - really helped me!
Good video. Easy to follow.
I know how to do this, but the new shower arm directions called for 2-3 wraps of PTFE tape, which I feel is not enough. I think it is always good to see a refresher video b-4 doing this task. btw, my old shower arm has some of the thread broken off when I moved in. Putting on new arm b-4 installing a new shower head and filter. My old one only needed a nudge with my small pipe wrench to get it loose. There was old pipe dope on the old arm, I used the pipe cleaning brushes you use b-4 sweating copper, to clean the threads in the fitting in the wall as much as I could b-4 installing the new arm. They showed a narrow PTFE tape, on the video, but their thread may have been different. I always use Pipe dope with TFE in it best of both worlds. For a 2 valve shower, turn off the water supply outside, open a hose bib, then water pressure will drain out. Before you put the shower arm escutcheon, you can shine a flashlight inside the wall to see if it leaks. Always flush the shower arm by turning on the water to clear any debris before putting on the shower head. What ever you do, do not buy the Glacier Bay shower head arm, the threads are not true NPT standards, its made in China. Hope this helps anyone who watches in 2018 :)
Thankyou, very helpful.
Thank you for the video. My husband and I just replaced (an hour ago) the shower arm in our master bath. We live in a very nice modular home so, replacing the shower arm was slightly different but same concept. I love doing home improvement project (anything that will "beautify" the home) I am down for! Love how the shower arm looks now!! Again thanks for the video!!!
We're glad it helped! Be sure to subscribe since we're always working on new DIY videos, and thanks for watching!
Thanks this help a lot!
Thank you! I had an idea of how it could be, and ya, this really gave me a peace of mind. Haha. Thanks again!
Hi +dave smith, if you have a CPVC female connection behind your wall, we recommend using TU-555 pipe compound or a similar pipe dope to help create your seal instead of PTFE (aka Teflon) tape. Using PTFE tape could make the shower arm too big to fit properly into the female CPVC outlet and potentially cause cracking in your pipe if tightened too much. Hope this helps and as always, thanks for watching!
Vey helpful thank you!!
Will you come fix mine! Thanks for the video Mike!
Thanks! This was incredibly simple to follow.
well done.......thanks !
So much help lol thanks
thanks!!
While tightening the shower head back, I reach the final tight position where the shower arm is facing sideways. Any clue on how to get it to together either a little sooner or a little later so finally the arm aligns where it needs to.
thanks
Thank you! I can't wait to put my new shower head in!!!!!!!
great video, id like the S style shower arm, mines low, and the one in my shower hits me right in the neck, would like a taller one, so the water would hit me above my head. This helps, Thx
I wanted to this but when I tried to put the shower arm in it knocked down the threaded part into the wall. now I don't know what to do
Do you still use teflon tape if the female fitting behind the wall is CPVC?
what if it shoots out where the new showerhead is attached?
I have a question about the possibility of a leak happening behind the wall. If I do thread the arm on wrong (to the part just inside the wall) and it leaks, will it happen behind the wall or is it readily apparent from my side of the wall? I would hate to replace this thing, have everything look ok, then discover years later that i'ts been leaking the entire time back there. Makes me shudder just to think about it!
+Sparrowhawk - if you wrap the PTFE tape well and ensure that the shower arm is threading into the outlet properly (ideally 3 turns hand tightened, 3 turns with a wrench), you shouldn't have to worry about any leaks. That being said, there's always _some_ risk of a leak, even if you have the shower arm changed by a professional. Unfortunately, this type of leak wouldn't be readily apparent until your drywall begins to discolor. We suggest waiting to place your escutcheon on until after you've turned the water on the first time, you may be able to see any sizable leaks at this time. You can also make your outlet hole larger so you can see more inside, but be aware you'll need a much larger than standard escutcheon to cover it. And as always, if you're really uncomfortable doing it yourself, call a pro. We hope this helps you figure out the best course of action for you - and thanks for watching!
great video, just wanted to confirm if the water supply had to be turned off? We just had our shower retiled and a new trim kit installed, so the valve should be in perfect working order.
Hani Hanna thanks for watching our video! To clarify, he water supply does NOT have to be turned off to changed the shower arm, but of course you'll want to make sure the valve is in the 'off' position until you're ready to test the connection.
Hello....
Your vid makes it look easy(As it should..) but what kind of wrench are you using here? I tried to use a locking plier and a Soft Jaw HDX plier and no luck.
Thanks for any tip you may share.
StriderRyu7 - we used a channel-lock type wrench to remove the shower arm, but you could also use a strap wrench if you're concerned about damaging the existing shower arm. If you aren't concerned about damaging the existing shower arm, you can also just use a regular pipe wrench (with or without a rag, which can sometimes slip around). Thanks for watching our video, and if you have any other questions, please ask!
can you explain why had a bracket at the end in the pipe, star liking and try to replace but yours doesen't have it.
Hi Juanita, could you please clarify? We're not sure what you're asking about.
crazy question is there different size Threads for Shower arm? or is there just one Standard? basically have to buy a specific brand part?
Hi David! Pretty much every shower arm out there will use 1/2" IPS threads - this is the standard followed by manufacturers. So you shouldn't have any problems with different brands, and there's no need to buy a specific branded part if you can find a better-value equivalent.
my shower arm keeps on stopping with the 45 facing up. How can i make it stop in the down position without it being loose?
Hi +Josh Castelan, if you've got it as far as it will go when it stops in the "up" position, you can back it up the half turn needed to make the outlet point down - it won't actually be loose. We know it seems like it will because it isn't 100% as tight as it could be, but if you've threaded it properly and used plumbers' tape, the seal should be good. The important thing to remember is you are only trying to get the shower arm tight enough to not leak. We recommend removing it from where you have it now, re-wrap about 5-6 times with PTFE tape, and then thread it on again. When you start to get close to being tight, get it as close as you can to fully threaded while maintaining the right position - it should still be tight enough to not leak. Hope this helps!
I live in an old (pre 1970s) apartment. I want to replace my arm because the 45 degree that is on it ends in a rounded end. Does the water supply need to be turned off, or will I see any other problems?
Hi +furny4d, great question! No, the main water supply doesn't need to be turned off as long as the shower valve is functioning and in the "off" position. If everything else is in good working order, you shouldn't encounter any further problems, but as always every situation is different. If you're worried about damaging something or you suspect there might be problems due to the condition or age of the shower in general, we suggest contacting your building maintenance manager or a licensed plumber to handle the job.
What brand of channel lock are you using please
Mike is using Rothenberger pliers, found on our site at www.plumbingsupply.com/tools.html#waterpumppliers
This may be a dumb question, but do I have to turn off the water at the main water level or just in the shower?
Hi +Juanita Patterson - that's not a dumb question at all! We usually recommend turning off your water main just in case anything goes awry, but it's perfectly acceptable to just turn off the shower for this project - the choice is yours. Thanks for watching!
You're welcome! Thank you for replying! This was the most helpful video I've seen on youtube and I've looked at quite a few! Your instructions we easy and so helpful!!! I will be doing this tonight!
How do you get the flange to fix to the wall?
Hi +Carly Marchant, we recommend using a water-cleanup latex caulk - like Loctite's Polyseamseal - and be sure to only caulk around the top two-thirds of the flange. You want to leave some space at the bottom just in case any water needs to escape, you don't want it to go into your wall. You could also use a silicone-based caulk, but be aware that any mistakes will be difficult to clean up (you'll need to use either mineral spirits or wait for it to dry and cut it off), so we generally don't recommend that. Great question - thanks for watching!
How do you know the shower arm is in tight enough ... mine is only turning 3 times
If the arm feels secure and is aligned correctly, you should be good to go - just keep an eye out for leaks!
how do u determine there is no leak between wall and shower arm?
put a shit load of tape and hope for the best
That's my question.
Carol T. Cap off? As in put the shower head on?
Sry if it seems like a silly question but I'm going to attempt to put a new pipe on by myself 😅
What if the shower head is stuck on? Looks like an adhesive was used like liquid or paste that hardened.
Hopefully it's only dried plumber's tape, but if it really is an adhesive both the head and the arm should be probably replaced, and installed properly. Forcing a "glued" head off may damage it.
PlumbingSupply.com it could be tape. It scrapes off with my fingernail.
can plumbers dope be a substitute for tape
Yes, you should be fine substituting dope for tape. If you're working with plastic pipe/fittings, make sure to check the label on your pipe dope to be sure it will not interact with the plastic.
You just present a simple scenario, what happens if the arm cannot screw to the down position, my problem is that I can screw tight the arm to the up position, there is a 180 degree to go!
+Ian Xiao The important thing to remember is you are only trying to get the shower arm tight enough to not leak. We recommend removing it from where you have it now, re-wrap about 5-6 times with PTFE tape, and then thread it on again. When you start to get close to being tight, get it as close as you can to fully threaded while maintaining the right position - it should still be tight enough to not leak. Ideally, you would be able to tighten it down about three threads by hand and three by wrench, but if you can only get it two-and-a-half by wrench, that's still within the normal, leak-free zone. Hope this helps!
+PlumbingSupply.com in had the same question wrapped Teflon tape 11 times around 2nd try and left it when it was giving residence but not tight, by hand I think, should I now wrench it from 6 o'clock hand tight to wrench tight? it's replaced a ball type shower arm ie 1970s early 80s type. is it okay to leave it so it is still movable? will it tighten up over time? or wrench a full turn? is that safe on a potential old pipe in wall? I put a paper towel in wall at connector when I ran it, came out dry. tips please naturally a old house doesn't need leaks or a pipe burst.
Hi, can you help me please? I have been trying to remove my shower arm but its very stuck. It has grouting ontop of the arm which is then stuck to the tile. I have been using wd40 to loosen up any grouting and it has worked but hasn't helped much. Iv managed to get quite abit off but due to the fact its ontop of the pipe, its taking forever to take off. I have tried to move the shower arm to see if it has loosened up after I removed the grouting but its still stuck. My house was built in 1945 and whoever put this shower in place did not want this shower arm to be de-tatched 😢. I am worried that I wont be ablw to remove the shower arm at all. Can you please advise what I could do to remove this grout and make this task abit easier?
Hi, we're sorry you're having this problem. From your description, it sounds like you haven't been able to actually see the connection of your shower arm to the piping in the wall. Due to the age of the shower, our first guess would be that the shower arm threads have simply seized up from age, but without being able to see the connection that's only a guess. If you have an accessible wall behind your shower, you could cut into that wall to better see what's going on without having to damage your tile/remove grout (it's easier to fix drywall than tile) - but you may still end up needing to call a plumber if the threads have seized or if there is a weird connection there. Before you do that, though, we would highly recommend you visit our friends at www.plbg.com - you can post pictures of your shower there and get free advice on your specific situation from professional plumbers. It can be very difficult to diagnose problems like this without being able to see it, but we hope you can get some better help at Plbg.com. Please feel free to come back and let us know what you were able to figure out! Thanks for watching.
+PlumbingSupply.com Hi, Thank You so much for your reply. Yes you are correct and I should have made myself clearer. I have not been able to see the joint of the shower pipe and arm, hence cannot see the thread to see why it is stuck. I do think the grouting around the shower arm is playing a big part of it being stuck as I did try to loosen it with a wrench but the arm did not move at all. As for trying to get into the wall, my bedroom closet is behind the shower. I am not going to damage the wall for this as changing the shower arm is not necessary for me, I just felt like an upgrade. Everything works well. I am going to try again today as I went to bed stressed out last night. Thank You for the website I can go on and post pictures. I will try that out. Eventually I may just give up. Kind Regards.
You should be careful , you are putting your teflon on the wrong side, lol
My problem is that there is a free-spinning, round, metal ring around the shower head threads. How do I remove the ring in order to get to the threads of the shower head? I need to replace that shower head.
+Raffie Quler Hi +Raffie Quler - after reading the description of your problem, we're guessing you probably don't have shower head threads at all. What you're describing is a common problem we've run into with people who have a ball-style shower arm and don't know it. In that situation if you were able to get the ring off, you'd see something that looks like this - www.plumbingsupply.com/images/pp-973-011-ball-shower-arm.jpg - instead of a regular threaded connection.
If you want to check to make absolutely sure you've got the ball-style arm before you change the whole arm, you can take the actual shower head apart and you should be able to see the ball. If you do end up having a ball-style arm, you can either change the arm or use a special adapter - www.plumbingsupply.com/images/ppadapt.jpg - to attach a modern shower head. (The ball-style shower heads have been long discontinued.)
We hope this helps with your problem, but if this isn't the case, please feel free to contact our exceptional customer service team at sales@plumbingsupply.com for further assistance. Thank you for watching!
+PlumbingSupply.com There are threads under that round metal ring. I know it because there is also the excess plumbing tape sticking out when they mounted the shower head. Please tell me what I need to do to remove that free-spinning, metal ring.
Hi again +Raffie Quler - we'd love to help you solve this. Do you think you could post a photo to help us better understand your situation?
If so, post it in our DIY Plumbing community at - ow.ly/UOORv - and tag us. We'll keep an eye out for it. :)
What do I do if the shower arm is SMOKED down on the threads? This thing won't even BUDGE.
You might try using some penetrating oil around the threads and leaving it for a while to see if it helps any. Using a different kind of tool - maybe a pipe wrench, channel locks or a strap wrench - might also help. Your safest bet is to call a plumber!
hand tighten??? good luck and cross your fingers!!! what about the part where you get some channel locks cover the arm and tighten it??
Hi +James Dolan - we've found that when using channel locks or other tools to tighten their shower arms, most of our customers will overdo it trying to get the arm to align properly and end up actually causing a leak, so we avoid that method. If you've properly wrapped and threaded the arm, you should be able to create a good seal with hand tightening. If you do choose to use channel locks or pliers or something like that to tighten your shower arm, go a quarter turn at a time and if you have to use excessive force to get it to the next turn it is best to go backward to get the arm to align instead of trying to force it forward. We hope this helps you decide the best method for your situation. Thanks for watching!
Funny how at 1:46 he had tape on both ends of Arm but at 3:00 he is applying tape LOL
My shower arm doesn't want to budge. Is there any chance that it cannot come off or is it just very tight?
It's most likely just very tight. There is a possibility that limescale and sediment is helping keep the arm stuck - if you see any scale around the connection, try wrapping a vinegar-soaked rag around it for 20-30 minutes to see if that helps. Otherwise, try using a longer wrench for more leverage, and/or two wrenches if you can access the pipe the arm is connected to (one wrench turning the arm, one on the pipe coming out of the wall) - or use a vice grip to steady the pipe. Be very careful - while you'll obviously need a great deal of force to loosen the arm, too much force could break the arm off in the wall or damage the pipe in the wall. As one of our replies below states, WD-40 might also help loosen the connection. If you can't access the pipe the arm is connected to, we recommend contacting a plumber.
You completely skipped the tightening of the shower arm.
Not exactly! Check out 2:20 - there is a cut at the end, but according to the talent it was good to go. Many shower arms actually can be sufficiently tightened by hand.