How to safely teach stripping / cleaning a sport climbing route. Bolted lower offs / anchors.
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Ok, stay with me, it's a bit long this one, again 😂
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Thanks never considered re clipping the last draw on the belay rope.
Lots of mussy hooks popping up on Yorkshire limestone now.
Great video totally agree with everything.
Especially the point of just teaching whats appropriate, too many times ive seen people being taught by comitee (mainly in groups) where every group member has something to say or "and heres what to do if your lowering off a ramshead" or "if you cant get a bite through do this" etc which whilst its useful info, often it leads to information overload.
Keep it simple, learn method for the anchor you are actually lowering off, there is always time to learn about different lower offs etc, you dont have to learn it all at once. And its so much better learning from one person, be that an instructor or well experienced patient friend.
Glad you liked it and thanks for sharing your thoughts!
The toughest aspect of all of this is that it takes way less skill to climb than it does to understand the rope work to clean anchors.
Good grief… haven’t been to Bus Stop for 35yrs… happy days :-)
Dread to think how many days I've spent in there!
I put a link of this video in the description of my recent "Open Anchor System Lower Offs" video. I hope it's OK... (----Thanks for spending the time to edit and film again!)
Of course, thanks :)
Jez. You have a cute dog. You are also really rubbish with the cold- fair play me too. Good video!
I'm perma cold this time of year 😂
Stellar job on the video as always!
I was wondering if you had any tips on cleaning the rest of an overhanging, potentially very hard sport route (other than seconding it and collecting the gear as you go). I know there are some tips that make getting weighted quickdraws out of overhanging routes easier but I was wondering what your take on that is.
Thanks!
Yes… but you’ll have to wait for the video, should be coming mid Dec!
@@JBMountainSkills Knowing it is coming is all I wanted :) Cheers
Great stuff
I came across some mussy hooks in Portland, Dorset on the Battleship climbing area last month or so. Was the first time encountering them, we managed to use them ok coming down from a sport route.
Quick question on the vertical anchor, you have two quickdraws but most of the weight is on the top one so its not equalized. I've been doing this in Portland but had one person said I should try and equalize either using a quickdraw and a crab or a longer quickdraw and a shorter one. What is your thoughts?
Interesting there are mussy hooks appearing, thanks for sharing.
Assuming the bolts are good, I’m not that fussed about equalising to be honest. You’re really unlikely to achieve true equalisation with any ‘draw combo. The only way to really get genuine equalisation is a self equalising set up like a quad.
Aiming to equalise trad stuff would be a different thing and I do want to do my best on trad anchors.
In the video you put the quickdraws "on-top" of the chains in the hangers, rather than underneath - any particular reason? I would have thought a fall with them on top could lead to some interesting twisting of the karabiners?
Good question. It depends is the answer. Most of the time it won't cause anything interesting to happen and it makes things a little easier to clean at the end as they're not trapped by the weight of the climber on the rope testing the system before removing them.
If the particular bolt setup did lead to some unwelcome twisting I'd relocate the 'draws.
For a first set of draws for sport climbing, is it best to stick with a set of 10-12 Medium length 17cm? Or, would it be worth getting say 4/12 in the shorter 11cm length so to have a mix? Thanks.
Personally I don't think it matters too much, I'd probs just stick to mediums in the first instance then add a few short / long when you work out your preference.
I'm a big fan of don't do it in the first place unless taught how to be safe.
And maybe a straight forward example instead off a complete vlog…
I've done other videos of the cleaning process, this video wasn't intended to be that.
What do you think about royal marine MLs
Well, they're hard as nails so even if I had something negative to say about them, which I don't, I wouldn't write it on the internet!
@@JBMountainSkills well then I will subscribe
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My god, just toprope trough the ring. Thar is what they were made for in the first place. We are really complicating things, just to “save” a steel ring….
They’re really not for that. Even if you did, which we shouldn’t, you’d still need to do some threading. Did I mention we shouldn’t top rope through in situ gear? Ever.
Minimum £25 for a lower off plus the time of someone to go and change it when it’s knackered.
@kankudai69 You are 100% wrong