How To Restore a Stanley #7 Hand Plane
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2023
- General Tool Restoration: • Tool restoration
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Hand Tool Rescue on Japanning: • Best Japanning Recipe
Today, we are restoring a Stanley no.7. I love restoring antique tools. And on this hand plane we will be doing a full strip down and clean tool restoration.
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Of all the science pun shirts you have in videos the "I have potential" is my favorite!
came out looking fantastic.
If you have extra adjuster knobs, you can use to as jam nuts to remove a thread without cutting a slot at the end.
nice job and you didnt over do it i am glade you didnt sand the body right back like a lot of people do . i like to see the age and a good patina thanks for posting
That is quite the transformation, excellent restoration. The japanning was a surprise, I expected you to paint it blue.
Only paint the planes that I'm going to use in for my personal use with blue.
What paint do you use when you paint them blue? I’ve been searching your videos and I must be missing one. I love the color, thanks in advance
Enjoyed the plane restoration video James. Looks like you have a very busy schedule in September. Be safe traveling. Yes, Your plane is God's perfect number. God bless.
Great video. I just got me a #7 that needs some TLC and even though this was more than I intend to do, it covers what I have to.
If you rub both sides of the joint with acetone first rosewood glues just fine.
If you mix ground charcoal in with the epoxy, the glue line will pretty much disappear. I've successfully repaired several dozen saw handles and plane totes using this technique
Just got a #5 off of eBay, excited to likely ruin this one and make my next one good 😎
I have 3 hand-stitched Auriou rasps and, unlike machine-stitched rasps, it sounds like God when you are using it. But bajezuz the price is up there, but well worth it. I'd bring my 12" cabinet maker's rasp to a knife fight any day.
I would also point out that I am plane restoring Visigoth. I strip the remaining Japaning off and use matte black Rust-o-leum spray paint :O I even committed the ULTIMATE sacrilege by painting a No5 that I made into a scrub plane with WHITE paint. I'm still waiting to be - smitten, smotten(?), smote(?) - whooped.
Very timely!! I just got a 1931/1932 Stanley #7 that needs similar attention to get back to working order. Thanks for sharing the steps!!!
I like this video!
I just saw this video, great timing. I have a jack plane, a try plane and a smoother that I need to clean up!
Nice work, the fine adjuster is a real bonus.
Great!
Love the japanning on this one - notblue is my favourite colour!
Once again, good stuff, James. Thank you
I am about to restore a Stanley no7 so this was really helpful... 🙂
Good restouration. Nice to see that even that bad looking things can be restored to something butiful and funktional
Great transformation of the plane James .
Nice trade
Thanks for another great video James.
God bless
I think it was originally you that said the number 7 was as big a jointer as one needs. I would totally agree with this as I have had a number eight in my hand and it is just too big!
I am sorry but your head wack gets me every time. I realize how that sounds.
I’m going to a flea market next weekend. Hoping to find a deal on similar plane.
Love the head whack on the sandblasting cabinet. As any fule kno it's how it should be done.
Enjoyed watching that. Thanks!
Excellent restoration video! You da man wit a plan!
My friend has a no 7 sitting on a stump that has been killed buy the Australian water this is my sine to go acquire it to giv it TLC
tlc tender loving care?
No 7 is still on my wishlist, but I need a good project to use it on first, so I've got a good excuse to buy one 😅
Thanks for another wonderful lesson.
Well done! Thanks James!
Whoopie!!! Cool! Nice work.
I just recently restored (cleaned up) a number 5, and I just used wd-40 and sandpaper to get the gunk off of it😂
Comment down below. That turned out great.
Nice restoration. Hope to see you in Amana this Friday!
Will you be there for the meet up with Rex and myself?
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I hope to be!
You couldn't of timed this better. Just bought one to restore this week ❤️
Thanks and take care!
This looks terrific. I have restored a few #7's. Some came apart easier than others. The left hand screw for the depth adjuster is often a challenge to remove.
For woods with natural resins, I have better luck getting the epoxy to hold over time by using acetone to clear off the surface resins before applying the epoxy.
Good to know there is a canned jappaning product available. Thanks.
Nice plane!
Another great project!
Very well done.🙂🙂
Lovely restoration James, and thanks for the tips regarding japanning 👍
You need to wait 10 minutes after your wife leaves for work, just In case she has forgotten something and returns for it. Once it enters the oven, open the windows fully.
Certainly don't film and post it on the Internet!
@@alangknowles😂 good advice 👍
Thanks James
Down below, down below. Making a helpful algorithm comment.
Thanks from RSA
Thanks for sharing.
nice
Keep up the good work
Nice job!
I really enjoy watching your videos im trying to get into more woodworking and your videos are really informative keep it up
Beautiful work. Im working on a numbner 5 right now. Love the process
Just bought an old No. 5 - I'll be using his techniques ~
Looks great, and of course "Comment down below!"
nice work. Thanks
Great video!
Nice! I was given a hand plane by my Dad that was covered with rust, so I can relate. Thanks for sharing.
One more great video!
Nice job! That tote turned out sweet. The japaning is equally as fantastic. I have been using implement enamel which looks pretty close to japaning. A hot summer day in direct sunlight bakes it on in short order. It takes a week to dry the rest of the year.
Great job
All dogs go to Seven!
nice work
Thanks for sharing that
Beautiful work, James! Really amazing looking plane! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great video, James! Looked like the beast I restored a few years ago. It’s very satisfying to take something that old and beat up that was used by someone a century ago and give new life to it.
Here's your snide remark!
I have this to do to a no 10, im stuck on one of the frog bolts. It stuck solid. Its currently spending 2 weeks covered in oil whilst im on holiday...
Sadly the sole its a little pitted. But free, so ho hum.
I picked up a bounty of free planes when two people on facebook gave away there grandads tools for free... i got 18 planes, including a 3, 5 2x 5 1/2 and a 6 i hit the motherlode....
Thanks!
Hi James,
Thank you for this gem,
I was wondering what paste wax you used for the knobs? :)
Appreciate the help
perfect how-to video for me, thanks.
Also where did you get the stones or diamond sharpening stones?
Here you go. Making the Sharpening station: czcams.com/video/VDqgVUeCDmc/video.html
Playlist of sharpening videos: czcams.com/video/0zN1RSCxLNQ/video.html
Recent video showing sharpening in detail: czcams.com/video/WHLpywJpfU0/video.html
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@@WoodByWrightHowTo Wow, thanks for your time and knowledge.
I have the same wood plane and I used this stuff called rust 911 and you mix it with water l let it sit submerged in that rust remover overnight and it really worked good l only had to do a little bit of sanding I put everything thing in there except for the wood handles a lot of it came out shiny then I should pull it out of that stuff you just rinse it off and try it well and then after you pull it out of that stuff you rinse it with water and dry it really well but I will say that rust remover how has save me a lot of wire wheeling and standings on a lot of things Andover my dad's house I removed one of the shows that he made about 30 some odd years ago maybe 40 and in the bottom used woold the size of a railroad ties for the bottom of the shed and used 8 or 9 in lag screws to attach the shed to them but anyways I took those lag screws out and they were all rusted up and I said what the hell I put it in that stuff and the majority of them came out shiny there was only a few that I had to do a little extra work to but if I was to use a wire wheel or sanding I would have took me hours upon hours to do so what I'm getting at is maybe try that stuff you might like it just a suggestion and another thing if you don't have any rust remover or you don't feel like doing all that sanding and wire Wheeling you know somebody with a lemon tree go collect the bucket load squeeze them get all the juice out into a bucket put your rusted parts in there let him soak overnight and then wash them good with water lemons work good too you can actually see within a few minutes the rust coming off whatever you put in there
Comment down below!
Very good information and technique. I have one I need to restore as well.
Do you have a Stanley no.5 that you would sell? I think it would be great to have a plane that a person that has inspired me once owned.
Hi James - it’s really lovely to see great tools reborn into further life. I’ve a couple of Stanleys I’ve picked up. I’m really interested in the japanning product. I noticed that you like to coat most of your planes in blue. I’m a sucker for Record blue and would like to do one of my planes blue. Do you use blue japanning or is just blue paint?
Ken Myerscough, Southport UK
I use blue paint. there really is no colored Japanning. I use a self etching primer then the spray paint of choice.
To what extent do you flatten the sole? I enjoy the old machinist method of scraping - gives a surface that's vastly flatter than wood warpage will yield and the surface of the plane sole hangs onto wax way better than a smooth sanded surface. I reference a granite machinist surface plate for smaller planes #5 and under, and a 3/8" thick piece of float glass for larger planes.
This one I didn't flatten at all. As long as it does the work it does not need to be touched. A crazy super flat soul is only needed if you're doing plane shaving competitions. If I do flatten one I use 36 grit sandpaper on a plate of glass. Takes about 3 or 4 minutes on the worst of planes.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I don't doubt your logic but I'm a perfectionist at times...even if hand scraping takes something like 10-12hrs. Ultimately my goal was to make my plane perform on par with a Lie Nielsen...or at least how well I'd imagine one would be if I could justify spending several hundred dollars on a plane. Before I scrape in the sole to flatness, I use lapping compound to lap in the frog to the plane body and i lap in the frog face so as to minimize any chatter of the blade against it. It's a ton of work but so satisfying when done.
This one is on par with a brand new LN. I generally never check the sole unless it is acting differently then I expect. and in that case I address it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo wow! I wouldn't have guessed - figured LN planes are machined flat and would therefore cut more smoothly than a non-flat plane. How do you gauge what's flat enough and what needs to be addressed? I've got a like-new No. 5 from the mid 1960s that belonged to my grandfather and still have the box. If I hold up a straight edge ruler to the sole, I see light everywhere except a few points. The performance is noticably much worse than my Type 13 No. 5 that I lapped and scrapped flat.
Great work , especially the tote patch. Did you check the bottom for flat or wear spots?
I checked the bottom. It was pretty darn good. For a jointer there's no reason for it to be crazy flat. As long as it's close enough.
Seems like we, the viewing public just need a Wood By Wright plane restoration video, at least once or twice a year to get that fix! I know you have made so many, but I STILL enjoy each and every one of them! (What is my problem?!?)
Thanks for the video. Nice restoration! If the wings of a plane are not perpendicular, how could you fix it?
I don't. There is no need for them to be square to the sole. Stanley never checked for that.
Comment down below
What is the paint for and do you really need it?
Is it a problem if I leave it out?
(I just dont like the color)
thank's for your great content
it protects from rust. you don't need it, but those hard to reach places often get moisture from the wood curls
Thanks
James, help? Flea market find old planer, its cast and cover with micro bumps. Figure not to sand it flat as ot would ruin it and destroy any value/id of the item..do i sand it flat on the sides and palm grip or leave it? Need a better opinion than my own. Thanks
Also, its more about safety and the best working/looking order, not resale restored tools
Feel free to send me an email with pictures I'll be glad to take a look at it and let you know. jameswright@woodbywright.com
Why...and why...does white paint have to be present on every single hand plane I purchase???..(occasionally there is the mint green exception)...
I do have one question if that is okay. I am looking to get a hand plane in the near future, and it's my first. As such, I won't be spending tons of money on it. However even good hand planes seem to need a little work before they are ready to go. So my question, so I need to buy tools to get the hand plane in working order before buying a hand plane? And if so, which tools do I absolutely need?
That depends on the plane you are getting. Most good companies only need a sharpening before they are ready to go. Send me an email. I would be glad to talk.
How can we be sure that "built up tar" wasn't the japanning just getting messed up by time. Isn't that stuff basically asphalt anyway?
The tar is relatively soft. In Japanning the asphaltum is little more then the pigment.
Any worries about introducing stress into the iron when you bake the japanning?
No. At 400f there is no fear of that.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Cool. I have restored a lot of planes at this point for my use, but was always scared to throw them in the oven. Just scared I would take my decent thing I finally found and make it junk by accident. Thanks for responding, James.
Just out of curiousity, is the lever cap on that plane original? The glimpse of patent date made me think it was, but the front knob and the depth adjuster looked wrong for the possible types.
It is all original.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Is it a type 12?
Man...yeah I have a small collection of planes in my "to be restored" pile.
Glad you pointed out that you were using old screwdrivers and chisels to scrape with. I'd hate to have to turn you in for tool abuse.
👍👍👍👍👍TY
How do you remove (and reattach) the adjustment lever on the back of the frog if you need to strip that down to replace the coating?
I do not. I leave it there. it is difficult to do correctly and often ends up breaking the casting and there is not much material left to reinstall it. Very few people who restore them remove it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo How do you re-coat the frog then? The paint (I think it is paint on mine rather than laquer) is half flaked off and really needs replacing, but it extends underneath the lever.
It appears to be the only thing simi-permentantly fixed which is annoying.
I mask it off with tape. then move it all the way one direction for one coat. and then all the other way for the second coat.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks
HI. I have a question, what japaning did you use? I want to renew mine. Your channel is incredible, for me, who started carpentry late, it is an encyclopedia of techniques to learn. Your channel is perfect, your technique is perfect, the community is perfect, your ending jokes are not perfect, but nothing is perfect (it's a joke).. hahahahahah....... greetings from the end of the world, Santiago de Chile
I used a plane life japaning. There's a link to it in the description if you want to see more.
Did you have to flatten the sole and how is that best accomplished? Thanks!
This one was pretty good. For a large joint or you don't need to flatten it incredibly. But usually I go and get belt sander belts and cut them in half. Lay them out on glass and we'll be done in a couple minutes. I usually start with 36 or 50 grit and go from there.
Great job James! What did you trade it for?
A plow plane.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo must be a special one. Are we going to see a video of it?
is the veritas one, so you will see it pop up now and then.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo it would be funny to see your opinion of buying an old Stanley or a new Veritas plow plane. I have a Stanley 55 and a Record 50 and I think that a new Veritas plow with vintage blades would be a better choice...
turning on the oven for several hours during the heat of summer is 100% controversial!
Also what are a good set of rasps?
if you want new then the hand stitched rasps from Narex taytools.com/products/narex-hand-cut-stitched-10-inch-cabinet-makers-rasps-15-1-2-inches-overall-hornbeam-handle?_pos=6&_sid=0ca1ac28f&_ss=r but you can get the cheaper machined rasps here. they are not as nice to use but with a smoth hand they can do the same work. taytools.com/products/sale-special-overstock-narex-3-piece-set-course-cut-round-rattail-half-round-and-rectangular-150-mm-rasps-854201?_pos=9&_sid=0ca1ac28f&_ss=r
I bought an old Record No.4 it is a "warfinish" one and the sole looks pretty flat (checked with a straight edge) but the sole is not perpendicular to the handles / tote the whole body casting thickness is on the right side from the tote around 5.2 mm and on the left side of the tote its around 4.5 mm so round about between 0.5mm to 0.7mm diffrence from side to side but it's flat . Is it understandable?
It looks like somebody lapped it with a edge grinder seated on the side.. I will not use it for shooting (have bigger ones too) it should be my smoother so the sides do not be square to the sole..
Do i have to try to get the sole perpendicular to the tote or is it a good advice to do so?
That is within tolerances for planes of that era.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thx, for the fast respons :-) was a bit confused about that.. // unsure if i bought "trash" and in europe the planes aren't as cheap (50-60€ for a No. 4).. So it should be fine... 😁But theoretically if i try to hold the plane tote straight 90° to the wood surface which should be planed and i use a lot of preassure from above i will cut a "chamfer" of round about 1mm from left to right or? (Sorry I'm german.. so not my "mother language" here ;-))
Hi James. Could you leave a link or the brand of the jappanning paint you used in this video? Thank you.
Thanks. There is a link to it in the discription.
I apologize James. I missed the link.
not a problem. I would have copied the link and posted it, but I was out on a trip and it is a bit more difficult to do on the phone.
This is perfect. I know how to restore #8s and #6s but the methods to bringing these #7 joiners have eluded me.
No more! Gone are the days where I stare all day long at my rusty #7, wondering how I will ever get it to cut
do you worry about sole flatness?
if it works I don't worry about the sole. if it has problems then I will check it. this one worked perfectly. here is a video on it. czcams.com/video/j1YDaQdvI60/video.htmlsi=6o_mxxPL41s2-wN_
Did you flatten it at all?
No. If the plane does the work then I don't touch it. Super flat soles are only needed for plane shaving competitions. And making the user feel good.