A little grip tape around the filter, a plug on the filter after you fill it (that’s what I do) and go in from the wheel well. Your videos showed me a different way to get her done! I used your video for a turbo replacement (fleece cheetah) and I thank you for that. The hardest part was the oil and coolant returns which you said was 2nd hardest however, was easily the hardest. About 4.5 hours to get 1 bolt in was awesome but that’s my shop, bush league motors, good times haha awesome videos lots of info keep em coming!!
Awesome video. I remove my air intake also, makes it so easy. Another tip is make sure the rubber o-ring is still on the old filter when u remove it. Sometimes they can stick to the filter housing. And if u end up doubling up on o-rings once u install the new filter it could mean disaster
I’m new at muscle-truck maintenance.. just got an ‘06 Ram 2500 5.9. Watching video(s) and reading comments, it sure looked not easy to pull the air intake. And no way to loosen by hand from below. And didn’t want to dump oil by pulling filter up and out. BUT❗️WalM has a filter wrench that’ll grip this thing from below using an extension. No oil drips down, and the filter is simply lowered carefully. No removal of anything needed. It’s their Hyper Tough Large Adjustable 3-Legged Oil Filter Wrench, Model 4219. It made ez work of it, and beats all these other avenues.
Liked your video, but I’ve found what seems to be a much easier way. I’m new at muscle-truck maintenance.. just got an ‘06 Ram 2500 5.9. Watching video(s) and reading comments, it sure looked not easy to pull the air intake. And no way to loosen by hand from below. And didn’t want to dump oil by pulling filter up and out. BUT❗️WalM has a filter wrench that’ll grip this thing from below using an extension. No oil drips down, and the filter is simply lowered carefully. No removal of anything needed. It’s their Hyper Tough Large Adjustable 3-Legged Oil Filter Wrench, Model 4219. It made ez work of it, and beats all these other avenues..
Oil leak? What's that? Oh yeah I forgot that's what's completely under my truck. But hey not far from half million miles. So ! When my body has that many miles I'm sure I'll have leaks coming from me also. 2001 dodge 3500. Keeps on going. Lovin' it.
Very good video, What about fuel filter change, how often do you change the fuel filter On my 2005 dodge diesel I change oil, oil filter and fuel filter at 7500 miles or once a year, Don’t drive it so much any more Baldwin filters shell rotella 15w40 oil, 122k miles so far so good, Auto transmission oil and filter change at 30-40 k miles intervals
My oil changes are way over kill. Every 3000 miles. Way over 407,000 miles and after my oil change oil looks like break in oil. Can't hardly see it so clear. Shell rotella 15w40. I'm sure inside of my engine is still brand new.
I didn’t prefill the filter, just put a bit on the edge so I could lube the seal with my finger. But if you watch when I start it up the oil pressure almost comes up instantly even with it not prefilled.
If you look at it this way if you don't pre-fill your filter you starve your engine of oil for that few minutes of no lubrication. Its setup oil pump, oil filter, engine lubrication.
Few minutes? It’s 1-2 seconds. No different then if you start your truck up when it’s really cold outside and the oil is thick. Read the other comment discussion we have going, j explain why sometimes pre-filling isn’t the best because of contamination.
Issues with some wording, Yes within a few seconds. And yes some places are colder then others. Questions does that depend on if you service your truck when engine is hot and is at operating temperature or when engine is cold. No not meaning heat up new oil to fill up truck. To clarify yes when engine is cold oil is hard to come out or hard for engine to warm up when cold oil. Oil is still flowing even when its cold just not as fast as it is when hot.
That filter is in the same place it has been since the B-series engine was designed. Beefing the truck.frame to achieve class maximum tow ratings necessitated placement of structures beneath the filter.
If you are going to call it "properly" then you damned well need to actually do it properly! Service information from Ram and from Cummins both say the filter is to be prefilled!
@@darkirondiesel ahhhh sounds good. Well I may need your help. My old 5.9 needs some work and I’m wondering if your able to give me some insight on what needs to be done. What would be the best way for me to send you stuff or information?
You can send me a message on Instagram but I get about 10 messages a day from guys asking questions about their truck. And usually I can’t figure out a problem without actually seeing the truck in person.
@@darkirondiesel I don’t have Instagram. Any kind of social media I don’t have but this. Well it’s mostly just upgrades. My truck runs fine. Just parts I can take pictures of and you tell me if I need a new one or possibly upgrade them. If it’s possible. If not we’ll thank you for your fast and kind reply.
I disagree! If your oil filter is oriented straight up like on the Cummins, you should Absolutely fill the filter with new oil. That second or two that it takes to fill the filter, means there is no oil being pumped to your engines rotating parts! That’s BAD.
If you want to get SUPER technical I guess, but if you watch towards the end where I fire it up you can see that it’s literally 1 second until that oil pressure comes up. That’s not going to hurt your engine.
Prefilling the oil filter actually can bring more contamination in the system , and the volume these oil pumps flow its not going to hurt anything when its half ass warm out, heck wait till its -40c and just see how long it takes to make oil pressure . Iv seen upwards of 20 seconds . Few seconds ain't gonna hurt anything
@@aaroncarlton5393 Please explain how filling an oil filter with new oil can add contamination. I even go the the extra mile and turn new filters upside down and blow low pressure air in them to make sure there's nothing up there like loose filter media or metal screen pieces. So, if you do an oil change every 5-10k miles on average over the life of a vehicle that's let's say got 300k on it, that's 30-60 seconds of limited oiling time. You know when you build an engine, and you slather all of that assembly lube on all of the rotating parts? Why is that done? Because even a split second of an air bubble pushing through your main bearing surfaces can cause damage. It can make the difference between a 150k engine and a 500k engine. Point is, it really can't hurt, but can only help.
Well what the average guy doesn’t know is that the oil goes into the filter on the smaller outside holes, then gets filtered as it passes to the centre of the filter. So if the average guy is pre-filling a filter they are probably just going to pour the oil directly into the middle of the filter because it’s much easier and quicker, which is the wrong way to fill a filter. If there is ANY contamination on the oil jug (dirt, dust, etc) it’s going to fall right into the middle of the filter and end up going straight to the engine components. If you are super careful, clean, and you fill the filter from the outside holes then ya it’s technically better to pre-fill. But you can also cause more harm then good if you pre-fill the wrong way. Like I said, personally I don’t bother pre-filling oil filters because it’s not going to harm your engine. I’ve seen trucks and semis run for 10+ seconds with no oil pressure when it’s really cold outside because the oil is so thick that it takes forever to get to the engine components and they never had any issues. As for your rebuilding engine comment, you lube up all the parts while you install because they are completely dry and it’s going to take a bit for the oil to get to them. Once they get lubed up they will always have oil on them. If you have ever taken apart an engine you would know that all the parts are oily even if the engine has been sitting for a week +
@@built4xploration253 you dont have to explain to me why you use assembly lube, trust me I do this for a living . Take my service truck for example 2012 ram 5500 . 300,000km and 12500hrs on it . Oil gets changed every 5k kms . That's 60 oil changes in its life . Not once has it been pre filled . How long has that ran with no oil pressure . It doesent bother me. There is enough residual oil coating everything. You can do what you want but like dark iron diesel and I said, it can actually bring in more contamination then you think . Even for fuel filters , theres a reason on heavy equipment the fuel filters come with a plastic plug in the center of the fuel filter, so the fuel goes into the small holes to get filtered cause manufacturers saw an increase of fuel system failures due to improperly pre filled filters
A little grip tape around the filter, a plug on the filter after you fill it (that’s what I do) and go in from the wheel well. Your videos showed me a different way to get her done! I used your video for a turbo replacement (fleece cheetah) and I thank you for that. The hardest part was the oil and coolant returns which you said was 2nd hardest however, was easily the hardest. About 4.5 hours to get 1 bolt in was awesome but that’s my shop, bush league motors, good times haha awesome videos lots of info keep em coming!!
Awesome video. I remove my air intake also, makes it so easy.
Another tip is make sure the rubber o-ring is still on the old filter when u remove it. Sometimes they can stick to the filter housing. And if u end up doubling up on o-rings once u install the new filter it could mean disaster
I’m new at muscle-truck maintenance.. just got an ‘06 Ram 2500 5.9. Watching video(s) and reading comments, it sure looked not easy to pull the air intake. And no way to loosen by hand from below. And didn’t want to dump oil by pulling filter up and out. BUT❗️WalM has a filter wrench that’ll grip this thing from below using an extension. No oil drips down, and the filter is simply lowered carefully. No removal of anything needed. It’s their Hyper Tough Large Adjustable 3-Legged Oil Filter Wrench, Model 4219. It made ez work of it, and beats all these other avenues.
Liked your video, but I’ve found what seems to be a much easier way. I’m new at muscle-truck maintenance.. just got an ‘06 Ram 2500 5.9. Watching video(s) and reading comments, it sure looked not easy to pull the air intake. And no way to loosen by hand from below. And didn’t want to dump oil by pulling filter up and out. BUT❗️WalM has a filter wrench that’ll grip this thing from below using an extension. No oil drips down, and the filter is simply lowered carefully. No removal of anything needed. It’s their Hyper Tough Large Adjustable 3-Legged Oil Filter Wrench, Model 4219. It made ez work of it, and beats all these other avenues..
Always prime the oil filter!
My intake is bolted in so many places it would take forever to remove I just reach up from underneath the truck and unscrew the oil filter by hand.
Oil leak? What's that? Oh yeah I forgot that's what's completely under my truck. But hey not far from half million miles. So ! When my body has that many miles I'm sure I'll have leaks coming from me also. 2001 dodge 3500. Keeps on going. Lovin' it.
Good video dude I've always wanted to do it on my own just don't want to screw it up lol
Was that an aftermarket trans cooler, could you do an install video of that if you haven’t already? Thanks and please keep the videos coming.
My trucks a standard so it doesn’t have a trans cooler. I have a Far From Stock AC condenser cover
Pro-tip: get the oil temp up and circulating before draining.
Yes good tip for sure
Very good video,
What about fuel filter change, how often do you change the fuel filter
On my 2005 dodge diesel I change oil, oil filter and fuel filter at 7500 miles or once a year,
Don’t drive it so much any more
Baldwin filters shell rotella 15w40 oil, 122k miles so far so good,
Auto transmission oil and filter change at 30-40 k miles intervals
Nice!!
I have a 2011 Duramax lml, it’s always had 15-40 delvac, would it hurt to go to a synthetic? Or just keep what I am doing?
No it wouldn’t hurt to go to synthetic oil. I’d definitely make the switch if I were you.
Can you do a video on fuel rail plug?
Ya sure I will do one soon. I have a BD Fuel Rail plug here actually I just haven’t gotten around to installing it
why is my oil black right after i change it just by starting it is there a way to clean the old oil out better
Not really, it’s pretty typical for a diesel truck to have black oil soon after an oil change
My oil changes are way over kill. Every 3000 miles. Way over 407,000 miles and after my oil change oil looks like break in oil. Can't hardly see it so clear. Shell rotella 15w40. I'm sure inside of my engine is still brand new.
Where did you get those headlights I've been looking for them
eBay
@@darkirondiesel thanks I'll see if I can find them
Ya don't have to pre-fill the oil filter, but it helps the oil pressure come up quicker upon start up...
I didn’t prefill the filter, just put a bit on the edge so I could lube the seal with my finger. But if you watch when I start it up the oil pressure almost comes up instantly even with it not prefilled.
If you look at it this way if you don't pre-fill your filter you starve your engine of oil for that few minutes of no lubrication. Its setup oil pump, oil filter, engine lubrication.
Few minutes? It’s 1-2 seconds. No different then if you start your truck up when it’s really cold outside and the oil is thick. Read the other comment discussion we have going, j explain why sometimes pre-filling isn’t the best because of contamination.
Issues with some wording, Yes within a few seconds. And yes some places are colder then others. Questions does that depend on if you service your truck when engine is hot and is at operating temperature or when engine is cold. No not meaning heat up new oil to fill up truck.
To clarify yes when engine is cold oil is hard to come out or hard for engine to warm up when cold oil. Oil is still flowing even when its cold just not as fast as it is when hot.
@@darkirondiesel and yes some oil filter are up side down and can't be pre-filled
What brand headlights are in your ram??
The brand is spyder
They always put the filters in the worst spot
Yeah they just keep getting worse too haha
That filter is in the same place it has been since the B-series engine was designed. Beefing the truck.frame to achieve class maximum tow ratings necessitated placement of structures beneath the filter.
i hav a 5.9
If you are going to call it "properly" then you damned well need to actually do it properly! Service information from Ram and from Cummins both say the filter is to be prefilled!
In the real world no one prefills an oil filter
@@darkirondiesel as I said, properly is in accordance with factory service information. Deviation is hack job.
Do u run 5w-40 year around
Yes
I miss the easy oil changes that comes along with cummins. Basically as fast as it drains you can do it
If you want easy oil changes the best truck is a duramax. Easiest filter to access haha
What does the name mean? Dark iron diesel?
Just a name I came up with when I started my company. Doesn’t mean anything, I just thought it sounded good.
@@darkirondiesel ahhhh sounds good. Well I may need your help. My old 5.9 needs some work and I’m wondering if your able to give me some insight on what needs to be done. What would be the best way for me to send you stuff or information?
You can send me a message on Instagram but I get about 10 messages a day from guys asking questions about their truck. And usually I can’t figure out a problem without actually seeing the truck in person.
@@darkirondiesel I don’t have Instagram. Any kind of social media I don’t have but this. Well it’s mostly just upgrades. My truck runs fine. Just parts I can take pictures of and you tell me if I need a new one or possibly upgrade them. If it’s possible. If not we’ll thank you for your fast and kind reply.
I disagree! If your oil filter is oriented straight up like on the Cummins, you should Absolutely fill the filter with new oil. That second or two that it takes to fill the filter, means there is no oil being pumped to your engines rotating parts! That’s BAD.
If you want to get SUPER technical I guess, but if you watch towards the end where I fire it up you can see that it’s literally 1 second until that oil pressure comes up. That’s not going to hurt your engine.
Prefilling the oil filter actually can bring more contamination in the system , and the volume these oil pumps flow its not going to hurt anything when its half ass warm out, heck wait till its -40c and just see how long it takes to make oil pressure . Iv seen upwards of 20 seconds . Few seconds ain't gonna hurt anything
@@aaroncarlton5393 Please explain how filling an oil filter with new oil can add contamination.
I even go the the extra mile and turn new filters upside down and blow low pressure air in them to make sure there's nothing up there like loose filter media or metal screen pieces.
So, if you do an oil change every 5-10k miles on average over the life of a vehicle that's let's say got 300k on it, that's 30-60 seconds of limited oiling time.
You know when you build an engine, and you slather all of that assembly lube on all of the rotating parts? Why is that done? Because even a split second of an air bubble pushing through your main bearing surfaces can cause damage. It can make the difference between a 150k engine and a 500k engine.
Point is, it really can't hurt, but can only help.
Well what the average guy doesn’t know is that the oil goes into the filter on the smaller outside holes, then gets filtered as it passes to the centre of the filter. So if the average guy is pre-filling a filter they are probably just going to pour the oil directly into the middle of the filter because it’s much easier and quicker, which is the wrong way to fill a filter. If there is ANY contamination on the oil jug (dirt, dust, etc) it’s going to fall right into the middle of the filter and end up going straight to the engine components. If you are super careful, clean, and you fill the filter from the outside holes then ya it’s technically better to pre-fill. But you can also cause more harm then good if you pre-fill the wrong way.
Like I said, personally I don’t bother pre-filling oil filters because it’s not going to harm your engine. I’ve seen trucks and semis run for 10+ seconds with no oil pressure when it’s really cold outside because the oil is so thick that it takes forever to get to the engine components and they never had any issues.
As for your rebuilding engine comment, you lube up all the parts while you install because they are completely dry and it’s going to take a bit for the oil to get to them. Once they get lubed up they will always have oil on them. If you have ever taken apart an engine you would know that all the parts are oily even if the engine has been sitting for a week +
@@built4xploration253 you dont have to explain to me why you use assembly lube, trust me I do this for a living . Take my service truck for example 2012 ram 5500 . 300,000km and 12500hrs on it . Oil gets changed every 5k kms . That's 60 oil changes in its life . Not once has it been pre filled . How long has that ran with no oil pressure . It doesent bother me. There is enough residual oil coating everything. You can do what you want but like dark iron diesel and I said, it can actually bring in more contamination then you think . Even for fuel filters , theres a reason on heavy equipment the fuel filters come with a plastic plug in the center of the fuel filter, so the fuel goes into the small holes to get filtered cause manufacturers saw an increase of fuel system failures due to improperly pre filled filters
Don't forget to add some zddp. The 5.9 and 6.7 take three gallons. Always change it when it's hot.