I think I found the BEST Turbo for a Rotary. Insane blitz build.
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- čas přidán 23. 12. 2021
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The best Christmas gift anyone could have asked for, an hour and 26 mins of Rob Dahm and rotary goodness. Thank you kind sir
That’s almost a whole made for TV movie
100% was not expecting a feature length film as an early present. 10/10 best movie of the year.
God bless us, every one
Merry Christmas !!
Lucky I never asked for anything
Rotary daddy blessed us with an hour and a half video 🙌 Merry Christmas!!
Honestly this is the best thing …. Ever.. thank you Dahm sir 💯💯💯
Eehhhh, PAC performance is way before Rob
You took the words out of my mouth. Merry Christmas Rob! 🎄
Holy shit.
I didn't realize how long this vid was until I read your comment.
So many things in this episode made me go hnnnng.
Even though it’s staying fairly “stock” this thing is going to absolutely rip, and be a really fun car as well as a part of history, well done rob
Rob, have you ever thought about getting a 3D printer to make some of the test/one-off brackets and little pieces you sometimes need? There are materials that are fairly easy to use and are plenty strong for brackets. Great work all around though, love the channel and I'm learning a lot
Unless he wants to take the deep dive and learning curve or buying a high quality printer he's better off ordering 3d prints or cnc machining.
@@GENcELL2014 Yeah I agree, especially because he's got a cnc (or two?) and a milling machine. 3D definitely can do shapes that would be impossible with a mill or CNC but the use cases are less important for automotive. Also the time required is an order of magnitude longer
@@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017 exactly, totally spot on.
@@GENcELL2014 Knowing Rob he probably has a 3d printer at home and already knows how to use them but doesn't see the point for automotive
@@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017 yeah, I understand the awesome use of 3d printing is only for testing or prototyping because of tolerances not as tight as other methods. Professional shops are at least capable of 3d printing with more precision than home brewers.
Just use an open lug nut, Rob! 949 racing makes a great 7075 forged lug nut. I use those on the track and have been very pleased.
many tracks actually require open ended nuts so they can see thread engagement to pass tech
Facepalm!
Yes, this. There are plenty of good open ended wheel nuts. In any material you can think of but you're better off with steel if it's not a dedicated track rat.
Also by cutting the end off you have lost any anti-crossthreading techniques ARP engineered in.
@@Silverhks true, the popular mod for RX7 guys is to use GM studs so they stick out like 1/4" from an open nut. I cut mine down too, but added a rounded pilot.
I was thinking the same thing, It was definitely a cringe moment watching him Sawzall the studs off. But, in the end it works so whatever
You have to de-rate the amperage capacity of any cable based on how well it can get ventilation and how hot the operating environment (like under a car hood, especially in the summer, in the sun). Refer to the manufacturer's documentation on the wire or cable and error on the side of caution. Going too small and the wire isn't going to last as long before the insulation starts to deteriorate. For automotive you also want to use cable and wires designed for that application so they can handle oil, road grime, and other fluids without breaking down. It also helps with not cracking in cold climates or even just going over a mountain pass on a cold night.
What was used here should work fine, but checking the data sheets first is always the way to go and not rely on a rule of thumb. At least, that's what the guy running the industrial electrician program I graduated from taught me and nothing I have set up or repaired since has had issues, other than one tube radio, but that ended up being bad tubes and rotted out resistors.
Keeping a steady voltage across the power system is a very good idea, especially for electronically controlled engines. Computers and sensors don't like low voltage levels and will start doing weird things.
It is also advisable to derate even further for how many current carrying conductors are bound together. 1 heated conductor heats the other. Important in conduits and especially important in bound conductors. Science is cool.
@@handsolo6241 There are charts for that, so it is pretty easy to figure it out.
That magnetic sensor needs to be mounted from the Diff, mounting off the body will not allow for movement of the drivetrain.
🤔Good point.
Which sensor?
Pretty sure it has IRS which means the driveline won't be moving much. Diff and trans are mounted to the body so they won't be moving *that* much.
43:20 Rob, just wanna say there's two types of surge. The "dose" type you're talking about isn't what the anti-surge housings are for and it's not as destructive as you may think. Sure it's not good for longevity, but fuck it sounds cool.
What you're thinking of is surge under load (making boost) where the impeller "loses grip" on the air. It's where the compressor is hitting the surge line on the turbo map.
Here's a video demonstration: czcams.com/video/nCj6Spwl1CU/video.html
TLDR: huge difference between closed (no load) and open (load) throttle compressor surge.
Yeah like to raise this so he can see
Also the compressor doesn’t stall/stop during off-load flutter, it’s just the sound of the compressor chopping the air up.
I’ve had a 20 year old Garrett run 17psi with no blow off valve for the 3 years I’ve owned it, 0 damage at this point.
There is a wheelspacer company in fremont ca they make custom spacers you can get hubcentric inner to outer for all kinds of sizes their name is "Customadeonly spacers" . Also on the end of your lugnuts if it looks like they are capped you can cut the cap off and it will expose the end as an open lug. there are no threads in the end
1.5 hours holy crap. I'm at work I'll watch it when I get home so I can enjoy it. Getting up to VGG level now.
Who’s VGG?
@@omega1575 vice grip garage. He gets old beaters running again and drives them hundreds of miles home.
@@muttenmagroo ohhhh, them. i didnt recognize them based on abbreviation
Awesome video, looove the long ones. You and Isiah need matching single rotor mini bikes to get around for track days or drag days. Let everyone know the Dahminator is around even out of the car :D
Oh yeah, we all know you love the long ones😉
Hearing how much Rob paid for these console trim pieces makes me feel better about what first gen Impreza console parts go for.
Yea the guys doing part-outs are making more than the factory who built the fuckin things.. OEM price: $69.75 vs some random second hand shit in decent condition: 100 obo
That water pump block off plate is so rad, good job Rob!
Do you really want to know how good this f'ing video is? After 1.5 hours I was upset that it was over.
That ending!!! What a great tease as to what is to come!
I think you're going to like the V730s, Rob. I have to make sure my lidded cup is facing a specific way when I drive spiritedly or the water pours out of the vent hole and gets my leg wet lol
Well that's one way to say "my car is fast enough to make me pee pee on myself" lol
Primordial Bustang
My stock Miata is not fast lol
But it do turn quick
@@Mr6Sinner i know where you coming from bro, my mustang is the same way
Damn Rob, this is some of the best content you have released yet. 1 hourr and 26 min long?
Much better music choices. Solid information and footage of all the work for the FC.
Love it.
Please give the RX-8 the same treatment! You guys are dope, keep it up.
this needs more upvotes
As a current rx8 owner, i agree
Love the shop cat content need more of the pest control boss.
I cant believe we actually saw it started at the end of this video...I was certain I would watch an 1.5 hr vid and just cut to black right before hand like normal!!
And here I am used to sticking an old socket over the threads and tossing on a throw away lugnut and hitting it with an impact to suck new studs in.
Can’t believe I just watched a hour and a half video. Incredible work. I can’t wait for the next video. Ending has got me hyped!!!!
Why doesn't this video have more likes. It's very rare that we get this much content from the rotary daddy. I've learned so much from this man. Thank you for all the information and guidance. Much love man
When I asked anti gravity about the name. The answer I got was " it is the lightest battery on earth". First time I went to use the "restart" it did not work for me (motorcycle) Got ahold of AG & received a free replacement & flashlight. Great customer service.
Love these longer vids, Rob! Great work to the team getting all these great vids out so often.
Rob I know this must sound crazy but this is,in my opinion, your best build.
It's clear he's learning all the time and getting better.
You should do a master cylinder brace it really helps under heavy breaking to prevent the firewall from flexing
I’m using 1/0 welding cable for the sound system in my crx and the ground upgrades. No voltage drops here.
even with more than an hour of video, you sure dont fail to blueball us
Seeing you use the same water pump again makes me happy. I bought one for my hot rod build with a 460 big block. I love that it runs after shutdown to stop heat soak. I use mine in burnout boxes and just slow full throttle situations. It has no problem keeping everything happy. I know if u trusted the pump I could.
I love how Rob has a Mill and a CNC machine, but gets slip on wheel spacers from Amazon 🤣🤣🤣
When you can get something delivered same day for cheap it's worth buying some stuff instead of wasting time making it
This made me lol
You're right on those diffusers! They are really helpful on transient throttle and throttle response.
Hey Rob the RX-7 is getting more and more amazing but don't forget about your safety bro, I think it's time for you to get a HANS device. Remember that most of the time safety comes first.
Dude this FC build is my favorite thing that has happened so far on this channel. Thanks Rob.
Rob, I absolutely love what you and the guys are doing to my old 10th anniversary. She looks amazing! 👍🏽👍🏽
Merry Christmas to you and your team.
He’s clearly pouring everything he’s got in there. OEM plus plus plus
First class video guys...
Possibly the best build video I've watched... Totally entertaining, interesting and mildly humorous!!!
The fact that there's tuners out there that are well known in the industry, but don't understand that whole thermo efficiency concept you explained is unreal.
You might be a goof ball, but you've come a long way since I started watching. Keep it up Rob and team
Amazing, one thing about the fuel setup from Isaia at 10:30 on the video is that instead of using plastic wraps you can shape and L adapter from allow with 4 fittings. This adapter is really common in IT to organize UTP Cat 5-6, Rob nows what im talkin about if he had a datacenter. Also plastic wraps dont support stress and eventually the plastic loose the flexibility and breacks by itself. Otherwise great restore.
Wow, that G40-900 is absolutely beautiful and that FC is going to RIP! I have a Garrett GTS3582 dual ball bearing with a billet compressor wheel turbo on my 709 whp EJ8 Civic coupe and I swear by Garrett turbos. Good choice Rob!
Thank you for the "money shot" at the end.
You can reprogram the safety stops on your tooling. I don't remember the parameters off the top of my dome. But, there are safety offsets that are easy to change in that scenario.
I would love to have this car. You are taking a awesome car that was turned up to 11 and turning it up 11 more! This will be one of the best on the road/track. Thank you for taking us along on the ride
31:20
Fabrication Father: 😩
The shop cat: 👁👄👁
Seriously 1h 26min and still I want more, Marry Xmas everyone.
I know you dont usually do long videos but its nice for a change.. plus there's a lot to unpack in this video so it definitely calls for it
No joke this is the best Christmas gift I’ve ever gotten. I **love** longer and detailed videos. I’ve already watched your wiring video two, almost three times through (looking to rewire my jeep and prep for a Supercharger)
Merry Christmas!
My first Christmas present - an hour and a half vid from Rob Daddy himself!
I admire Rob and Isaiah’s work. One day I hope I am able to build cars with the same precision, passion, and dedication that these guys have. The attention to the small details is your best quality and your passion is right there as well. You guys continue to make building cars a dream for me and have introduced me to the rotary engine. I am thankful you share your beautiful work with all of us!
I love this FC build! I had one 13 yrs and replaced all of those plastic dash pieces, not to mention nearly every part on the car. This brings back many memories and little jealousy I couldn't build it as nice as this 10th anniversary. Keep up on this content. Hats off to you guys!
MERRY CHRISTMAS MR ROB DAHM AND TO ISAIAH, also ,keep the vids coming and have a massive new years and rollon 2022 with more rotary madness from your team...
42:40
The visual aid:
When explaining compressor surge, I'm a big fan of this visual demonstration.
take a half full plastic water bottle and hold it on it's side. If you give it a quick tilt to one side and then return it to level, you will see the water sloshing back and forth. The small wave of water will move left to the bottle's bottom, smack against that wall, and then a new wave will go to the right until it hits the cap, and back and forth.
How the visual aid applies to compressor surge:
so if you were to imagine the plastic bottle were your intercooler piping (between the turbo and the throttle body) and the water is the air flowing through. when you let off the gas petal the throttle body closes and all of that rushing air crashes into the closed butterfly valve. Much like the water in the bottle, all of that air turns around and goes the other way.
The Physics behind the noise:
When the air hit's the turbo side, the blades stall (not a mechanical stall in which a rotating assembly slows/stops, an aerodynamic stall in which an airstream breaks away from the surface the air is stuck to) and this stall is what creates the "STU" sound. As the pressurized air goes back and forth like the water bottle, you get another "STU" each time the air wave hits the turbo side. This back and forth happens really fast resulting in the "STU-STU-STU-STU-Stuuuuu" sound.
Impact on reliability:
The issue that arises is your tubro is basically getting punched in the face by air upon each "STU". If you look up a journal bearing turbo diagram there is this disk like part called the Thrust Bearing (TB). It sits behind the compressor wheel and is the component responsible for handling any load pressing against the front face of the compressor wheel. Each "STU" has the potential to induce metal on metal contact with the soft brass TB, causing a reduced lifespan. Ball bearing turbos use steel balls which act as roller and thrust bearings. Ball bearing turbos are still susceptible to reduced lifespan from compressor surge, but the steel balls handle each metal on metal contact a bit better than the brass thrust bearing. Compressor surge will still shorten the lifespan of a ball bearing turbo, any metal on metal contact will negatively impact any component, BB turbos just a bit longer.
The solution:
So we don't want to rebuild our turbo all the time. How do we stop this damaging thrust load from compressor surge? You give the pressurized air an escape route. This is the entire purpose of a Blow of Valve (BOV). Instead of the pressurized air going back and forth, we open up this escape route for air to vent out of the charge piping.
BOV placement:
it can be anywhere between the compressor wheel and the throttle body. Some argue the better placement is next to the throttle body so when it closes the air has an immediate escape route, some say next to the turbo so the pressurized air never has a chance to impact the compressor wheel. IDK which is right, having any BOV at all is good enough IMHO.
Downside of having a BOV:
For race applications where keeping the turbo spooled is critical, not run a BOV can be beneficial to spool between shifts. When a turbo spools up, it has to compress the air in the volume between the turbo and the intake valves. If you don't run a BOV, during a shift you will compressor surge, BUT this means all of the space between the turbo and the TB (hot side intercooler piping, the intercooler itself, and the cold side of the intercooler piping) is all pressurized already during the shift. So the only spool-up the turbo has to do is to pressurize the intake manifold. During surge, the friction from any metal on metal contact will slow down the turbo, but it's been generally assessed that the performance benefits outweigh the performance deficits.
Watched the entire thing and i must say i am impressed! Great job with the editing it kept me involved the entire movie lol. Need more this long and this in depth
I wish I knew more about rotary engines. I'm not sure I understand why Rob is so fixated on them.
I love everything but the intercooler is either going to do two things. One, choke that turbo and hurt it because of the back pressure or two, it freaking explodes because there's not enough blow off valve and how much that air that turbo is going to move. I hope for the best but that isn't going to do the best.
15psi at any flowrate isn't enough to blow up any size intercooler unless there is a manufacturing defect i.e faulty welds improperly crimped end tanks (OEM style). Also remember boost is a restriction, the easier the air flows through an engine the faster the compressor wheel has to spin in order to keep a certain boost level (basically work harder). Back pressure is on the exhaust/turbine side. High back pressure is caused by using a turbine and/or turbine housing too small for the exhaust flow rate of the engine.
@@CP110 6 ⁿ 9 j
Fatigue can create a ton of problems so please be careful. I can appreciate working hard but I hope you guys stay safe too. Have a Merry Christmas everyone.
Great content as always. Looking forward to tracking this beast with you soon! 🤙
It would help if you threaded a nut on the wheel stud before you cut it down then8 when you take the nut off it will un-fuckulate the threads. (It's a nice trick when cutting down any bolt).
you also can use it as a guide
This so reminds me of the hours spent fitting a Turbo II into my RX4, time just disappears and insanity prevails
Man I love this channel, always enjoy seeing rotary builds and passion like this. Thanks Rob and team.
I absolutely love these guys energy when they are in the shop and I love how rob actually does a good job of teaching you what he is doing instead of just telling you.
Did you happen to understand what that water pump bypass was doing?
When your dome nuts bottom out on your long lugs, cut the domes out, not the lugs. This way your car can pass the tech.
When buying your heat shrink, buy red and black. This way you can mark your wires and never have to guess is it a ground or a live one.
When building a car, sleep deprivation is the biggest reason to accidents, miscalculations, mistakes and fails.
With anything. Went a month on 1-2hrs a day and ended up taking 6mo to recover. Worthy project but totally underestimated the toll. Almost everything eorked out ok except I kept forgetting what timesheets I'd sent and in the end thought, meh, I'll let them sort it out and got accused of trying to rip them off when a same timesheet went in twice so yeah... beware tired does lead to dangerous shortcutting.
Still, Keep it clean and The Lord will have your back
Current capacity is also a function of length. Can run a lot more than 130 A on 1 gauge with short lengths with no issue. Most amperage charts assume substantial length.
Daddy Dom hits us with the best Christmas gift ever
Love that you guys stepped up your work. Love this new content keep up the good work.
Sometimes when I have a problematic o-ring on these fittings I use a oil pan drain plug o-ring with the aluminum ring with vulcanized rubber in the middle. Just had one spitting the o-ring out on the fuel rail.
Dahm and the boys deliver a super long video for Christmas!
Most excellent.
Edit: Back after watching the video. What a fucking ending!
Thank you boss we love ya and appreciate your whole team
At this point we are not watching the Rob Dahm CZcams channel progressing the rotary world - we are watching the "Rob & Isiah daily soap buddy garage shenannigans TV show"...🤪😁😁😁👍
Perhaps you can use the 2 gauge locations on the A pillar to display oil temp and intake air temp. Sick build btw!
Just a tip from an experienced machinist- On most (not all) conventional manual mills, you want to conventional cut as it can put less strain on the part just because of the ways the chips are forming. If each pass is very small, about 5 thou, then It doesn't affect the mill as much but if they're larger passes, then the bushings in the machine can get pretty beat up with the vibrations and extra load on the machine.
I love the attention to detail, makes me wanna step up my game on my project
I love all the rotary content, the 3 rotor, the 4 rotor, the vette and all the other stuff but the FC content is near and dear to my ❤️ because I actually owned a similar 87 Turbo II, in Sunrise Red, for almost 10 years!
One of your best videos ever! It's amazing to see how much you've learned and how well you apply it, I can't wait to see what you dream up next because each project is better than the last
Rob, hear me out! You are going to have fuel pressure problems or... the feed line is unnecessarily big, one of the two. You have the fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay, this means that for the pressure to be regulated you are going to bleed fuel back in the gas tank, if you are at idle or low load you need to bleed a lot of fuel, basically as much as you are feeding because there is hardly any consumption, but because your return is smaller, this will be a restriction of the bleed and the fuel pressure will rise. So if you are running the engine and you have a fuel pressure drop it can be that you don't run out of fuel pump but your return line is to small. Ask me how I know.
The FC is one of my favorite pseudo-wedge style cars. It just has a purity of design that you don't see often and that's what makes it so charming. And you just can't help but love a car with pop-up headlights.
I have been and always will be an FC guy, but I will concede that stock-for-stock the RX-8 has a better suspension design and handles better than the FC.
I use the same size wheels as you have on the front all around on my MX5 NC (which shares the superior chassis design of the RX8)
Lol leave it to Rob....an hour and half long video and still left us hanging 🤣
1:03 when cutting studs, always thread a nut down past the cut. That way, unthreading the nut cleans up the thread of any burrs caused by the cut.
The full team really brings everything together 🥳. Merry Christmas
For me this is the coolest project yet, seems like a much more usable car in general.
Merry Xmas to you Rob, Isiah and the crew. Thank you guys for a very awesome episode.
I'm starting to like the 944 content, keep it up Daddy
Awesome build love the content as well as the length of this video 📹! Thank you for the entertainment. Also even though your keeping it pretty OEM this ride is amazing and the none OEM side of it just wow great job!
Tire = Black Rubber Part
Rim = Bronze Metal Part
Wheel = Black Rubber + Bronze Metal Part
Tire = black rubber part
Wheel=bronze metal part
Wheel=black rubber + bronze metal part
Rim= stop 🛑
Ditch the resonators, get hemholtz pipes. Check how Goodwin Racing does it for Miata. Complete elimination of boom drone frequency. Bring out the tones
56:01 uuu that's clean
Love this video and even more I love the 50 anniversary Turbo II and what your doing to it this is one build I can't wait to see finish I wanna wish you, family, and team a Merry Christmas.
thank god for this video i watched the whole thing those welds are so sick keep it up guys!
A little tip for next time u run a part like ur covers on the cnc. What I usually do where I have to cut full depth without the hassle of taking it to the saw. I would make the bolt holes first then make a fixture bolt it down then run the part. Been watching u for awhile now. It’s awesome seeing u using a cnc to make ur own parts! Keep it up!
I never watch this long of a videos on youtube, except Robs. I get this vibe that makes me wanna be there and wrench with you guys. Happy Christmas!
I love this channel one of very few CZcamsrs that puts out good and long content not like other CZcamsrs that are so focused on just 10 or 15 minutes of content
Awesome been watching you guys for a long time love seeing ya guys grown and me to learn new stuff keep up the good work
Rob “oops I made 700hp” Dahm
Damn, Santa Definitely was good to you guys this year. 🤘🇱🇷
My first wheel to wheel race was at Buttonwillow. It's a very gentle track for a beginner. Phil Hill can snag you tho so take your time learning that.
The last corner before the front straight, if you go 4 off, let it ride out in the field. Alot of cars have ended up in the wall by over correcting trying to get it back on track.
That rotor emblem on the water pump cover is the single most necessary add-on that I have ever seen.
wow I thought "man do I have time for the whole video?" and 1 hour, 26 minutes and 44 seconds later, and STILL got me with that abrupt ending 😂😌
I think a water jet cutter would be faster and as precise enough as the cnc mil. a CMM measurement machine can get the key data reference points from the original parts
17:03 Oh boy I felt blue-balled by that EDM intro and build-up. Raising tension with the pitch getting higher and higher, then the snare drum hit... and then nothing (musically-speaking ofc). When you expect either the EDM equivalent of a "verse" or a drop, this is jarring af! Oh well. Keep on rocking (pun intended)!
Putting on a nut before cutting a thread is advised. When you chamfer the cut bolt and take the nut off, the threads are in line so your new lug nuts won't get damaged. Happy New Year!