How To Change The Oil In Your Ford 6.8L V10 Powered RV
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- Save money and do it yourself! Changing the oil in your Ford 6.8L V10 Powered RV is almost as easy as changing your car oil. If you've never done it before then there's no time like the present to start.
Stuff you'll need:
6 quarts of 5W20 Oil - Motorcraft or better
1 oil filter Motorcraft part #FL-820S
Both the oil and oil filter are available at Walmart
Remember to recycle your used engine oil, and recycle your oil filter if possible. If you can't recycle the filter, then make sure to fully drain it of oil. Punch a hole in the 'top' with a hammer and screw driver to fully drain the filter if necessary.
Excellent, informative, video. Being 69 years of age. Never changed my own oil. Feeling "mistreated" by ALL (no exception) RV service centers, I am now forced to do this myself.
With this video, I feel I can do this, with no fear of making any mistakes.
Glad you found it useful - I hope your oil change went well!
My wife and I are both late 60's, we both have always done all the maintenance on our vehicles, we bought a new 2016 rv on a E450 Ford chassis, thought we would try having it serviced by Camping World, BAD, BAD mistake!!!! $$275.00 later, we discovered they didn't even check the tires, much less the windshield washer fluid. NEVER again!!!
Karla Storm 🦄🦄🦄
the only way you know they changed the oil is if you did it yourself...I never changed my own oil either until after I looked at my air filter at 120,000 miles and realized it was the one that came from the factory...I had paid for at least three...I use a paint pen now to write the date on my oil and air filters so if I have to use a service I know if they cheated......
Thanks for the video. Just got an RV, same set up. Ford used some sense with the oil plug and filter location. I use a 2 liter bottle with top cut off when I pull vertical filter saves on mess. Also, always fill filter with oil before installing, this way oil pressure builds quicker. Less start up stress.
Great Video. I have a couple of tips for you. #1 If your drain plug is not magnetic, buy a small "rare earth" magnet and stick it to either the outside of your oil filter or on the bottom of your drain pan near the plug. Just before you remove the drain plug, pull the magnet off the pan and this will allow the particles to flow out with the old oil. #2 I was taught by an old mechanic to always fill the new oil filter with clean oil before installing it. (I believe this is why oil filters are installed with the opening facing up) This will keep oil flowing instead of air for those first few seconds after you start the engine for the first time after the oil change. I don't think it makes a big difference but every little bit counts.
Great tips - thanks!
Try putting a little oil in the filter before putting it back on this helps for when you start the engine
good video, some things to think about.
1. always check and make sure the old filer gasket is not stuck on the filter mount, sometimes a gasket will vulcanize it self and pull out of the old filter, if it goes unnoticed and you screw on the new filter you will get a big surprise later on when you drive down the road, the gaskets blow out and the oil get pumped out and there goes you motor. this happens a lot at some these quick change shops.
2. always use a torque wrench on a drain plug, and a new gasket or o-ring.
3. on a vertical mount filter pre fill the filter before installing , this helps getting oil in the system faster.
4. with a paint pen mark on the filter the mileage and date. this helps on reminding you what you did and when. ( paint pens are great for marking info like torque of lug nuts on the wheel rim on the inside, filter number on the top of the battery plus how much oil, spark plug numbers ect. what ever important info you might want )
5. don't skimp on buying good oil filters. sadly fram was once top of the line. better off spending 12 bucks on a napa gold or something along those lines, yea i know it said motorcraft on that filter, but three dollar filter three dollar performance.
again , nice job on the video.
Thanks, and good tips! I feel pretty comfortable using the Motorcraft oil filter, as Motorcraft = Ford and I'd like to think they make a solid oil filter for their vehicles. I change oil every 5K miles in the RV, so I'm expecting too much out of the filter anyway. I'd strongly consider a different filter - maybe a Bosch - if I switched to a longer service cycle. I do use a Bosch filter in my tow car as I change the oil every ~10K in that vehicle. Again, thanks for your tips.
Thanks! We recently drove 3200 miles cross country while towing our car - a Honda Fit with stuff in it. I weighed our RV (at a Truck Scale) and it clocked in at 14,500 pounds. The car is 3,000 pounds (with stuff), so 17,500 total, and we averaged just over 9mpg. After reading what other people get I was happy with that - and now that I've changed the oil and the vehicle is over 5K miles I hope it goes up a bit.
brilliant dude...unless that is a new truck you have kept it super clean...
you could actually unscrew your oil filter bare-handed and you did not need a breaker bar to back the oil drain plug off...your old oil filter was as clean as the new one...
Hi David - yep and thanks. I've done a lot of oil changes in my day and I've found hand tight for both filters and drain plugs has always been tight enough.. which makes it a lot easier to do an oil change the next time. I think I also washed it just before filming.
I like using a box end wrench I can feel it better then a socket.Great video.
Filter wrenches are only for taking the old filter off. Read the filter instructions. Tighten 3/4 turn after the gasket touches. Never use a filter wrench to tighten.
Great video. I would recommend starting the engine after changing the oil & filter, to leak check the filter. I have had one leak due to a defect in the seal.
Good vid man. I always change my own oil and just bought an RV with the V10. I checked everything out and looked pretty simple so I decided to see if any video's were available. yours came up and was everything I envisioned. Thanks
poke a hole in the bottom of the old oil filter (,use an awl or phillips head screwdriver)let it drain THEN remove the oil filter,saves on the mess
Best tip here - I do this now. Thanks!
Wow never thought of that and been doing my own oil changes for awhile now. Thank You for the awesome tip.
Excellent! Just the motivation I needed to do my own oil after our last trip. Super easy!!! Lots of fun!
One thing to note is that 5w30 is now recommended in heavy service for that engine, per blue bird bus.
Great video. Very instructive. Helped boost my confidence just before changing the oil in my RV.
Thanks for this "How-To" video. I've got a 2012 E-450 Chassis on a 2013 RV and will be changing my oil soon. Safe travels!
You too, John!
Here's a tip I learned 30 years ago when I did tune-up/lube for a living, which this guy obviously has not................. drop the oil filter FIRST. You can let it fall in your catch pan and there won't already be 5 qts of oil for it to splash in!!!! Put on your new filter, THEN pull the drain plug. You're welcome.
Good tip and I'll do that next time - thanks!
Another thing I do after all that old oil has been drained is I pour a little bit of fresh oil into the fill of the engine with the drain plug still removed and it pushes some of the old dirty oil out after it has drained and then I re-install the drain plug.
Thanks for this video -- very helpful. Changed my RV oil today. :)
I go w/ the climate to the oil grade. There are advantages to synthetic over conventional; however, I read that its optimal benefit is at 25% synthetic. It's owners choice. Yet, if it was a natural gas engine then you would always use 100% synthetic to keep that clear look to the oil.
Good explaining.
good video, but you missed some things #1 you should always wear thin gloves because used oil is very toxic and can do bad things to your body, #2 running the engine first is to warm the oil and to circulate through the engine so when you start again you don't get a dry start, # 3 you did not check and or replace the crush washer on the oil plug and you did not clean the drain hole, #4 nobody ever explains this one, I noticed that your steering linkage had a grease zerk fitting, most vehicles now days don't have these, however bigger rigs do on the steering ball joints and it probably has some on the drive line at the u-joints and the sliding spline, and they should be greased at least along with the regular oil changes, # also I would think in some warmer climates that I would run some 5w-30, other then that good work!
My 2016 Jayco Class A motorhome Ford V-10 manual and oil fill cap both say 5w-30 and the quantity says 7 quarts so viewers need to check your cap and manual.
You're absolutely right - always check your manual first. I've read that Ford changed the recommendation to 5w-30 in the past couple years. As far as oil - I've heard 6-Quarts, 6.5-Quarts, and 7-Quarts all from Ford. Best advice is to add 6, run the engine, let it sit - check the oil level, and then add more until it's full. It's also possible that the 3-valve V-10 in your class A takes a little more oil than the 2-valve V-10s found in most Class-Cs. Thanks for your comment.
Enjoyed your presentation. Reminded me of auto shop 101
I only use Motorcraft oil and filter. Because you will be happy happy. In a 6.8 use only 5 20 oil.
5w20 is NOT the original oil for the Triton, 5w30 is, 20 causes Cam phaser issues, never heard of the 5w30 causing it, apparently thickens enough during heavier work
Good info - I suspect Ford switched it to 5w20 to (slightly) improve fuel economy for EPA purposes.
@@Trekwithus On the oil cap it shows 5W-20.
@@jimlaw6014 yep - our oil cap shows 5W-20. The engine hasn't changed in a while though, so it wouldn't surprise me if the oil caps from previous years had 5W-30. I have heard of the Cam phaser issues, so may change to 5W-30 going forward. It's not a huge difference .
Nice Job - very informative video - Many Thanks
15:20 Good Idea, but I have also found that is you turn it SIDEWAYS it will pour better and not GLUG, glug..
Always run engine and "Check for LEAKS" at completion, can be a expensive miss.
Great advice Bruce - thanks!
If your filter is upright like that always fill that sucker up with oil it will save your engine in the long run, it just takes a couple extra seconds to fill it up if you don't fill it up .
Hi Hayden - you're absolutely right. I just changed the oil (again), and this time I filled the oil filter before I installed it. It took a little more than half a quart to fill!
just something i learned in diesel school. and also instead of oil i now use grease to lube up the o ring on the filter and it seems to be easier to remove and install.
Thank you so much for explaining it so well.
Some V10 engines take seven quarts. The V10 engine in my RV
takes seven quarts.
Yea mine takes 7 qts. Mine is 2017 Forester.
Some say 10w-30 for summer time and 5w-30 for winter. Whatever the oil cap says on the engine go with that oil.
Yep, you can't go wrong using the manufacturers recommended oil. I figure they built the engine and know a lot more about it than I do!
Helpful. Thanks!
good tips. Thanks
You should always fill the new oil filter with oil before you install it.Other than that, good video.
Great video, thanks.
You put a tarp down...I thought that was the whole reason to change your oil there. :)
Thanks this video helped me a lot thanks man.
I'm happy you found it helpful, and you're welcome! :-)
Thanks for the video.
1- look inside the owner's manual and it will tell you what weight of oil to use for different climates. The weight listed on the cap is not intended for all the time use. For example, for my hyundai the cap says 5-20 but the owner's manual specifically states that 5-20 will not provide sufficient lubrication in hot climates. I live in Vegas. Way too hot for 5-20 per the owner's manual. Perfect example.
2- Engine oil is a carcinogen. Causes cancer. Always use gloves and avoid contact with skin as it is absorbed through the skin. Cancer=Bad
Good tips, Robert - thanks. And you're right about gloves of course. Used oil is full of PAHs (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons) that are carcinogenic - however I rarely handle used oil so I think of it like cigarettes - yeah they cause cancer, but I'm rarely around them and the exposure I do get is unlikely to hurt me. I'll add that unused (new) oil is nonmutagenic and has only trace PAHs so it's not considered carcinogenic.
Well done & good on ya, mate! We love you down here!
We we're just quoted at $208 USD for an oil change on our 2020 Winnebago Outlook 25J.
Do you have PayPal or Patreon? We'd love to tip you what we were gonna tip the bloke who did it!
Jason | Taz
🦈🥩🍺🇦🇺🦈🥩🍺🇦🇺🦈
Great video....thank you!
Some oil plugs are 16mm.
Thank you very much you have been wonderful
Thank you very much.
nice video. thank you
Mine also says 7 quarts and fill cap says 5w30
i would not recommend telling people to tighten by hand and that should be okay. The filter instructions tell how tight it should be, follow those instructions, as I remember it is tighten by hand until the gasket make contact, and then tighten another 1/4 quarter turn.
Bryan Sharp Fair enough, Bryan. At this point I tighten by feel and when you've changed your own oil for years it's easy to take what that feels like for granted.
I thought that was 3/4 turn. Always went by the guide on a Fram filter. I'll investigate when I get time, lol.
5w-30 is on the oil cap.
Hi Mikey - if you watch my video you'll see it says 5W-20 on my oil cap. (6:39 in the video)
thank you for the vid
Obviously...do NOT attempt to change your RV oil in a tux!! This was a good basic oil change video for the Ford E-350/450 SuperDuty RV. However, I'll add that before you install new oil filter that you (1) use a circular filter wrench....that way you won't burn your hands on a hot oil filter. (2) Do NOT use the oil filter wrench to install the new oil filter...ONLY HAND TIGHTEN the new filer! (3) IMPORTANT....be sure to "lube" the oil seal around the oil filter base before you install it...as that will prevent it from sticking to filter housing and will insure a solid seal with no leaks between oil filter and oil filter housing. (4) Be sure to "RECYCLE" your used oil at authorized oil recycling station - local service can accept it usually.
great video on the oil change, what kind of mpg do you get with the ford?
Can you do a grease chassis video?
Hi Lorri - I'll put it on my list. FYI - our RV has only 4 zerk fittings (grease fittings) and they're all on the front steering linkage (makes sense). If you crawl under the front of your RV, you should see them (google Zerk fittings to see what they look like) in the meantime.
Did you have to put it up on ramps or was there enough room to get in there underneath, little nervous a ton of weight to put on ramps?
Great video by the way thanks
I didn't need ramps - there's enough room as long as you're flexible. I didn't even use my auto-leveling jacks (and shouldn't probably rely on those either).
We have a 06 class C Ford E450 v10 as well. It's used and was used as a rental when we bought it. Dealer said he puts 30w heavy duty oil in. WIC's filter. It calls for 5w20, thoughts on the 30w?
I wouldn't use 30w oil in a modern vehicle engine. 30w is a single grade oil, vs 5w20 or 10w30 which is a multi-grade oil. At very hot temperatures - say 100+ degrees - 30w and 10w30 will have the same viscosity and protect the engine the same. However when it's cold the 30w oil will be very thick and not very viscous which will lead to extra wear and tear on the engine, whereas the 10w30 has additives that keep it thinner and more viscous (protective) at colder temps. Long story short, if you live in a warm part of the country, or if the dealer only drove/rented the RV in the summer then the engine is probably fine. If you live in a cold part of the country or if the RV was driven a lot in the cold then the dealer did you a disservice as 30w would create extra wear and tear on the engine. If the piston rings and seals are worn, then 5w20 might be too thin to be protective. In that case I'd opt for 10w30, but I'm not a mechanic. If I were you, I'd call someone in service at your local Ford dealer and see what they recommend you use going forward, but whatever you do replace the 30w with a multi-grade oil.
Trek With Us I second this course of action.
hey I change my oil and now the sensor on the dashboard won't show if it's high or low it just says it's low it won't even read what did I do wrong
Hi Blake - it sounds like you didn't add enough oil. How much oil did you put back in? Make sure to run the engine, let the oil sit, and then check the oil dipstick and add as necessary.
Trek With Us yeah when I crank the engine and let it run for about 10 seconds at red pretty good thank you very much
how do you change air filter on 2014 ford E450
Joe Sandoval Hi Joe - I can make a video, but it's really easy. The air filter is large and cone shaped and is located toward the right/middle of the engine. There are clips that you'll need to release on each side (by hand), and then pull and there's the air filter. Remove the old, put in the new, push the intake back together and clip it and that's it.
Joe Sandoval Also, at the 6:36 mark in this video the air filter assembly is in the middle of the picture. You can see the clips right around it - and yes, it's the entire plastic assembly in the middle of the engine compartment.
I have a class A motor home with the v10. Is it the same set up?
Bobby Bradley Hi Bobby - I believe it's almost exactly the same.
In a Ford 6.8 you cannot run 10 30 oil. You will damage your motor in the long run.
I am purchasing a preowned RV with 7,000 miles on it, but I can't seem to find out if Synthetic oil was originally used. Is it OK to use Synthetic oil now? I prefer the Synthetic, but I would like some verification that it is OK to switch.
Thanks,
Bill
Hi Bill - it's fine to switch to synthetic. The weight of the oil is much more important than whether it's dyno or synthetic. I'd stick with the manufacturers recommendation for weight, but switch to synthetic whenever you're ready.
Thank you very much for the advice. I am going to follow the manufacturer's recommendation to use Mobile 1, Synthetic oil, 5W - 20. You were a great help.
William Monteith You're welcome - and that's the exact oil I've been using for the past 5,000 miles. The engine seems to run more smoothly and quietly on Mobile1, but that might be a cognitive bias. I'm interested to hear your impressions after the oil change.
I recommend wearing gloves while you do this... Keeps your hands much cleaner!
How often do you change your oil ? In your class C Motor home . Thanks ..nice job.
Hi Tony - As we tow a car and are right at the 14,500 GVWR (heavy duty application), I change it every 5,000 miles give or take. I also check and add oil as necessary every month. As we usually don't travel very far at a time I've also changed the oil based on time - 'they' recommend every 4 - 6months, so every 5K miles or 6 months sounds about right. Good luck - and thanks!
We just purchased a 2016 e-450. I assume the dealer never changed the oil while the unit was waiting to be sold and would also assume that it is due for an oil change even though it has less than 1000 miles on the odo.
Trek With Us good advice I change mine every 5000 miles as well, bmw suggests every 25,000 km on my mini there is now way I would ever go that long between an oil change, like you I change mine twice a year regardless if I hit 5000 miles, with the colder temperatures in the fall and winter I as thing about the condensation from the temp difference
That be a WHOLE LOTTA TALKIN FOR LITTLE ACTION🤐
Did you end up adding any more oil after you ran it a bit? was the 6qt sufficient?
Hi Kyle - I found 6 quarts to be perfect. I always run the engine after an oil change before checking the oil level so the oil gets distributed through the system and oil filter. In the Ford 6.8L a fair amount of oil stays in the chamber above the oil filter (not in the pan), so running the engine before testing the oil level is a must.
how do you keep the bottom so clean?
I washed it pretty well before I filmed the video and it was only a couple years old at the time (2013). I think the dealer also undercoated it, and that helped keep it clean longer. It sure doesn't look like that now!
@@Trekwithus pressure washer?
@@johnhilton6863 Nope - just a good long-handled scrub brush and a long handled garden sprayer on a hose. I don't love the idea of pressure washing the engine area. I wouldn't want to force water into some enclosed electronics or something.
@@Trekwithus thanks
how many miles per oil change
?
Check your book
Crush washer?
For the drain plug? Newer models use an oring in a groove on the bolt flange. Good for several uses
dude.....
Dude what? Forget what else to say?