You should use a SMALLER SUBWOOFER! 5 Reasons WHY!
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- čas přidán 26. 04. 2023
- When you install an aftermarket subwoofer into a car audio system it is imperative to choose the right size. Too large a subwoofer can result in poor bass reproduction, or it may flat out not fit. In this video we discuss considerations for why you may want to choose a smaller subwoofer for your car audio system!
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I like big subs and i cannot lie
You other brothers can't deny
Same
😂
Hehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehe lol XD😭🤣🤣🤣🤣
You like the 12in ;)
The most underrated subwoofer is a 8", I have had everything under the sun, 4-15's, 4-12's, 2-15's, 2-12's, 1-12, some different 10" setups, but now for a beautiful well balanced sound and still good bass, I would take two high quality 8's!
It all depends on the design of the subs and your personal taste. Larger subs in smaller sealed boxes under high power will change your mind. I just heard 4 12s in a small sealed box powered by a 5k amp and I was stunned.
Yes. It's far easier to control the cone at 8" than it is at 12".
(2) Memphis MOJO mini 8"
Nice and punchy for double bass.
@@CarsandCats - It is not. You aren’t taking into consideration the material, the weight, the xmax, servo vs non servo, sealed vs non sealed, box design and other factors. Too many of you are just repeating what you you heard others say.
Ran two 8" and four 6.5" Sundown Audio Subwoofers in my vehicle and was blown away with how much bass extension I was able to get without loosing my entire cargo capacity. Small hatchback vehicles are very useful as long as you are filling the hatch full of subwoofer box. I was able to stuff the 6 subs in each corner, each in their own sealed boxes. Ran them on a single two channel amp... all said an done, still had full access to the cargo area, and got a huge amount of bass when compared to the stock system sound.
I heard 1- 8 inch Sub Sound like 4-12's and was blown away!! Was at a Sound Off Contest.🔈🔊🎼🎵🎶🚘
Sorry, this vid just came up in my timeline. 35ish years ago, I was at a 'car stereo competition' as a spectator. There was a guy with a regular two seat cab pick up truck. In the narrow space between the back wall of the cab and the back of the seats, there was a speaker box. The top couldn't have been more than 6"s wide. On the top were 6-8 tiny little 4" speakers poking out. To this day, I can't for the life of me understand how those little speakers produce sooooo much bass! This truck absolutely thumped!!!
I've been a huge fan of 10s for years now. My last setup had two 10" drivers and two 10" passive radiators... sounded amazing for just about everything I listened to, and fit behind the rear seat in my crew cab truck.
what subwoofer did you use? i love subwoofers with passive radiators, running 1 now, but want to run 2 subwoofers
The box is too big for a 12". 8" don't produce enough bass. 10's are perfect.
@@michaelculhane7227
What brand you using and model
Sounds legit!
That setup would fry listening to Dark Side of the Moon....
True 8 inch hits harder in small cars. Because the length of the wave and distance it takes to cross the wave
The main reason I prefer one subwoofer over many is weight.
For my daily driver, I love as lightweight as possible and cramming six 10” subwoofers each with a 30lb magnet is not good compared to just one 2000 watt 18” with a one 30lb magnet. It’s a huge weight difference.
But of coarse that’s just my personal preference for my daily driver. If I had a dedicated SPL vehicle, then I’d wouldn’t care much. Thank goodness for neo subs but DAMN they can be expensive!
Furthermore, I don’t use heavy boxes. I use sonotube which I can lift with one finger but is strong enough to withstand a lot of pressure.
Many years ago i owned a 2000 Volvo C70 hard top. Once i saw how the 12 speaker sound system was (installed from the factory) i stopped buying big subs. The Volvo used a components layout using 8"subs with a tweeter throughout the car totaling 12 speakers. It sounded great. I follow this layout with any car i make for myself. You get big sound and you still have practical storage space in the truck and thought the vehicle.
You make your own cars?
@@HardCold-Alquan correction...modify
Do you have any link with a video showcasing a car being modified with that kind of sound system please? Thanks!
@@JaimeCarlosCamacho i don't know a video of link showing how Volvo laid out their system, but maybe you can Google search the sound system of a factory 2000 C70 coupe.
I used to have a V70 t5 back in the day.
It had 4x12 dual coil subs. 3 off a mono bock in series parallel at 2.66 for lows and one off a different amp for slightly higher tones. I just replaced the door speakers for standard size but decent brand powered off the pioneer head unit, and then added a couple of amped boxed 6x9 on the mdf shelf I made.
It sounded alright, but I effectively took a practical car built to take a wardrobe in the back and by the time I was done you couldn’t fit a box of jonnys in it. Good times, I wish I was a teenager again.
only thing to consider is how area is deceptive sometimes. an 10" woofer has an area of 78.5 sq in. a 12" woofer has an area of 113.1 sq in. that means by going up only 2" in diameter, you're getting a 50% increase in cone area. and that's doing the math for a flat circle. this is an even bigger difference when we factor in the cone shape. two 8" woofers is still less cone area than a single 12" woofer. so keep that in mind. the rough math we instinctively want to do is to say 8+8=16, so two 8's must be larger than a single 12, but it ends be up less, and not even by a little either. but i know the takeaway of the video is that small size can mean using a sub where you otherwise couldn't, so i'm not trying to argue against that. i'm just reminding everyone that it's hard to get a feeling for the area of air you move from the diameter of the woofer, as area doesn't scale so intuitively
Mark described surface area limitations which was the biggest factor for my application. I have been running (4) 10" subs free air mounted SECURELY in my rear package shelf. I get more surface area than (2) 12s and I still have 90% of my trunk available for storage. I have been running this configuration in the same car for over 20 years!
Yep and your 4 tens still dont play as deep as the 2 twelves.
@@majicogarcia8417 YeP aNd YoUr TwO tWeLvEs StIlL dOnT pLaY aS dEeP aS a SiNgLe FiFtEeN
stfu please? you are most likely not even allowed to drive a car legally...
Absolutely agree, I ran 2 (12s) the 1st time my sound was done and it definitely hit hard but left a bit to be desired at lower volume levels. Decided to change things up and swapped to 3 (10s) instead and the difference was absolutely insane. Not only because I was able to separate and place the speakers throughout my truck but the actual functionality and sound was much better.
Needed better equipment... my two 15" Rockford Fosgates sounded crisper than any multi small woofer setup...
yea and 3 12's would've sounded better than 2 12's. You might've went down to 10's, but you added a sub, so it should sound better. I have a Sundown X15 in my Camaro that hits hard. Yet, the 2 Sundown U12's in my 4 Runner hit harder. 2 good subs will almost always be better than 1. Just like 3 will be better than 2. Even if they are smaller subs.
It's because you added 8 inches of Cone area to push the air harder
You didn't have enough amp or it was incorrectly tuned... THERE IS NO SYSTEM with 10s gonna sound better than a properly tuned 15 or 18 ... this fella can't even do math...
I've got an JL Audio 10W1V3 in a 17l closed box over years powered on a 420W rms class d amp and i love this little beast so much!
I once heard a hatchback car with 8 8" woofers in a baffle board , and I was impressed . That in itself
wouldn't mean much , except I owned 2 car audio stores and had not only built thousands of systems
but heard even many more . No one ever remembered my name so they started calling me Boxman I
built and sold thousands of enclosures to many car stereo stores all over the East half of Texas and
West half of Louisiana in the heyday of big boom . My stores were named Sound-Tex . So that being
said my being impressed with something so simple had to be pretty impressive .
12's are always my number one, but 10's are great too. I've never really had much good luck with anything bigger, but I've also never had a big air space. Good breakdown Mark!
Me too, however I’ve been noticing JL audio with 13’s now.
@Rodney Noel 12 is your best all around sounding speaker.. it proven... but JL has taken it a step further with there 13.5... drops low like a 15... but the sound quality is amazing...
@@thomasstott527 not for techno , house or any dance music. 12s are very boomy
@dubb 100 percent... if you read the comment I wrote directly under this one it says.. you should choose a sub woofer that better suits the music you listen to....
@@dubb9020 - They are not. It depends on the speaker and the enclosure.
You would get tighter bass response with smaller subs as well.
I'm in a 08 extended cab F150 running a single 10" Image Dynamic sub in a down fire truck box on true 400 watts at 2ohm from an old Alpine mono block amplifier. I enjoy the sound from the setup 👍🏻👍🏻
I just did the audio system in my brz. Installed a rectangular, all in 1 under seat sub on the back of the rear seat (brz has very limited space). I wasn't sure how it was going to perform but it actually kicks really nicely. The sound is clean and gives more than enough of a kick for my taste. I was pleasantly surprised at how good a performance that little sub can do
I went the super amateur route and bought one of those chinese 8" under-seat subwoofers that come with an installed amp and man i was insanely surprised at how good it sounds.
I currently have it in the passenger footwell but im going to move it to the trunk to get a more balanced experience since it's a tad too boomy on my right ear.
One thing extra to consider is also the total trunk volume, sure you can fit a 15" in the trunk if you have the height, but if there's no way for the air to move to the passenger cabin you are simply moving outside vents or trying to move the rear shelf if that is fully enclosed.
Block the flaps behind bumper corners off with foam, prepare to damage trunk latch tho. U get pressure in the cabin. In a carolla anyway. Windshield flex, caused leaks, metal on car body truck literally ripped, roof and back window flex 1/2" on 2 cheap 12's and a low budget Class D with a in dash epicenter
Edit: wait? One of my 12s is 60 lbs? 15 pound 12" sub? Are we buying garbage from wal mart?
Infinite baffle
48years of listening to and 30 years of building enclosures has shown me the superiority of multiple smaller subs, ftw.
In the mid 90's I worked for a shop and I built my 83 t-bird into a 150 watt class car. I had 8 kicker 8" in a isobaric box. It was a 4 chamber box each .5cuft. it not only hit hard and loud but dropped low. I was running a 25 hcca on the subs and a 100 hcca on my Polk components and hart 6" midbases. Audio control for smoothing and a clarion head unit with the DSP unit. It showed what small subs were able to do. I thought it was the best sounding car I ever owned.
Always loved a tri plate of tens as close as you can get them together. Great depth and very tight kick drum.
Personally I like the versatility of multi tens.
I'm 48 years old and I have heard and Biltmore systems and I can count and I've came to the same conclusion. Multi tens can't be beat for so many reasons.
I built a system for
My 2010 Chevy Colorado crew cab. Everywhere I looked people were building boxes to sit in the seat or on the floor between the rear seat and front seats or there was a premade box to fit two 10” but the rear seat needed to be raised an inch or 2. I wanted something that fit under the seat without lifting it. I custom built a box and I put two kicker 8” L7T in it and they both have the minimum air space (I have a better box in the works that allows for more air space and uses more of the available room). I have them powered by a 600watt alpine amp and I have to say they can make my ears hurt. I have never used kicker subs before and I have never used 8” subs before and I have to say I’m extremely happy with my decision to use these.
I have ran 10's for years. I listen to a wide range of music, and have never felt left wanton for anything more. From Kanye to Meshuggah they gave me the sound I was after.
In my last install (2014 F-150 SCREW) I ran a pair of JL 10w0-4 in a downfire and ported box. It gave me all that great low end, without washing out the mids and highs. Everything was ran on a 5 channel amp (XD700/5v2). I have since sold that truck, but will be putting the same amp, subs and speakers in my new truck.
I have a Rockford fosgate p300 8p 8 inch 350w combo unit that I installed myself and it’s a nice thumper with a decent knob and the sub is held down with a really strong Velcro
I made a super simple short flat underseat box with 4 8s for my 87 C10 and holy moly is it a monster. I honestly have never seriously driven around with it set to max for anything other than messing around.
I have a single 8" in a closed box (my preference back in the day because I used to think ported designs sound boomy and muddy). It's a mid-size sedan and the sub is in the trunk. With ~300W of amplification it's perfectly capable of volume that's uncomfortable, i. e. more than I need, and digs deep (down to 24 Hz at least) with my DSP settings. It's not perfect and I want to try something else, but it's very good, and for the price - it's awesome!
Ive been using dual 10 inch sub setup since 1999, last year i considered switching to dual 12 inch subs but changed my mind, currently dual shallow subs ive had since 2011
The hardest part of designing a system is being decisive on sub size, enclosure type and quanity of drivers.
Glad to see you still putting out quality content. 🐐
I've always liked 8s or 10s smaller is also more responsive
That's a myth. It depends on the weight of the cone combined with the magnet strength.
and some people like 6.5 because punchy bass/ dynamic of music. less weight from cone. i could never understand until recently
Well smaller is faster..Less note overhang..The faster a sub starts and stops the better the 'Pace Rhythm and Timing '
Nothing worse than a cheap Huge sized sub.. Slow as a wet week with one note bleeding into the next.. horrible.
I ran (6) 8W6's in several different applications back some years ago. Great performance in 6 cubic feet on 1,250 watts or so.
Got a good deal recently from a friend on a 8 inch sundown in a custom ported box tuned to 35hz and bought a walmart power acoustik amp. It has the cleanest bass I've ever heard from any sub I've ever had even cranked to high volume 85-90% and has no distortion what so ever. I highly recommend sundown, little on the expensive side but totally worth it.
18"s changed my life it would be awful to go back.
Same here. You feel the music even at low volumes.
@@thomasnelson213 I'm kinda new to this stuff, but for my taste I'd say my 12" 400w rms sub sealed hits hard too, even at low volumes... idk if thats just me or my car but I love it
As a beat maker, there’s a reason why most club PA subs are 18”. The resonant peak frequency is around 50Hz. Most kicks are tuned around that frequency +\- 10Hz Larger diameter speakers can peak at lower frequencies. Period. Human hearing doesn’t get much below 20Hz tho. But as far as moving air, sure you can feel it. Smaller subs w/ baffling will have a shorter decay/tighter response though. So if you listen to drum n bass or metal, then yeah, maybe an array of 10”s would be better for you. There’s no right or wrong- just application-like the guy says
I would like to experiment with every subwoofer size/system to my liking 15s are by far my favorite I’m working on some 8s currently though. I’ve heard plenty of 12 set ups all impressive. I honestly feel like this is all just an enclosure debate for all of these along with cone area.
I use an 8 inch Alpine Type R in a Skar tube enclosure in my truck. Setup is amazing.
I like 12's and my setup now is a NVX V2 12" with a Belva 3000 watt amplifier, also a NVX Bass Reconstruction processor. It actually sound alot better than i expected and the box is not ported.
I’ve had a JL 3-10 setup before and to date is still the best sounding setup I’ve had….
By far, the best sounding tiny sub is the JL Audio 8w3 in their micro sub ported box.
My wife has this on her Outback and it's very impressive. Add the cabin gain and we easily get down to 30Hz wO huge loss.
It sounds amazing and only needs 250W
For me, I've got the JLA 10W7AE + JLA HD750/1 in their sealed box
i have the tiny 8w3 ported enclosure with a dayton woofer and it blows my mind how well it sounds, even in an RX7 convertible. def some magic in that port!
Subwoofers should pretty much all sound the same when played within specs unless there is a defect in them. Put 10 different quality sub brands behind a curtain, all else (size, box, power, etc) being equal, you'd never guess which one was playing. 40hz is 40hz, 30hz is 30hz, so on and so on. So how can subs sound different? The only difference is loudness due to box design, location in vehicle and power used. If a subwoofer is not performing properly, there is something wrong. Either improper box size, improper location or incorrect power, which can include too little or too much, or a defect. Can't leave out crap brands, of course, but even many of those cheapos will function and sound great when played within their true proper specs, not the glorified specs.
I have two 8w3 in a under seat box in my truck and man they hit hard
Excellent information, and excellent presentation! Thanks!
I love my two Kicker 10's. They're loud as hell and very responsive as I listen to heavier fast paced metal mostly.
I have owned hundreds of subwoofers and the best cheap system I had was with 4-10 inch punch subs powered with an Alpine V12. I started with two, then moved to three and four. I compared them on the same amp with a single 12 inch JL W6, two 12in kicker golds and a 15 inch SoundStream 160. The 15 was almost louder but the 4 cheap 10’s dominated. These days I just have an 8inch punch sub in a 35hz ported box.
I'm an audio enthusiast, built some of my own sub boxes for my cars, I also built many stereo speakers, the best set up I ever built is 6X4 inch full range drivers in a a tower config, listeneing to this vid right now on them. Many small driver in a line makes the bass go lower because it mimics the size variable by which I mean it makes a virtually 30 inch woofer sound while being responsive at the same time with no crossover or comb filtering problems.
The JL 8w1 i have in my wagon is awesome! Sealed box and power to spec. Mega bass for the family truckster.
Can you give examples of what a system goals should include in it? Thanks for all your great videos, I've learned so much.
I’ve got 1 15” kicker comp q in my expedition, it’s perfect.
Currently pushing a DD 8" love how good it sounds and how hard it hits
What are you pushing it with??
I had 2 x 15inch subs in a hatchback in the 90s. One in the boot, one on the back seat and the music sounded Deep, Immersive and super clear with 6 mid range speakers running on another amp. Used to set off building alarms in the cbd lol. I hate smaller subs because I hate punch bass as it hurts my ears when song is turned up. I like super low frequencies so I can feel the song.
I run two skar 6.5 inch subs in my truck because the boxes fit behind my rear seat and it sounds great!
Ran a few 10" sub setups. 10w7 on jl audio 500/1v2.
2 10w7 on jl audio 1000/1v2.
3 10w6 on a jl audio 1200/1.
All sounded amazing tuned to 33hz.
I replaced a dual 12 ported premade kicker box with a homemade sealed single 8, cause I'm old now.
I enjoy the better frequency response and only vibrates half the interior panels.
Smaller subwoofers also respond more quickly due to less mass of the cone, surround and coil, which is one reason they can sound crisper and less “muddy”. They reproduce the music as recorded more accurately.
That isn’t true! It’s all how the system is designed. Look up “80” subwoofer” and look at the numbers.
Not exactly true, BUT... a lot of big subs do suffer from a bad/cost effective design and often need way bigger boxes than the manufacturer says to perform well.
Smaller subs, though... They generally sound "faster" because they lack the true, low bass which both sounds "slow" in itself, plus they excite the room/cabin in a totally different way than small subs (high energy, low frequency).
If you want true
I did an experiment with my 12" and my 18" subwoofers at home, both playing at reference levels, the 12" had a bit of movement while my 18" hardly did. That means the larger subwoofer had a better transient response than the smaller one. Plus the fact that it was able to play lower frequencies with ease.
All subs can sound great it depends on the setup
This a long time fallacy. This is not due to a function of mass, but rather inductance. The reason the smaller woofer from any particular line of drivers may appear faster is due to the smaller coils used on the smaller speakers. Smaller coil = lower inductance.
Build that same 8 to withstand higher wattage, and you will see the inductance rise accordingly. As the inductance rises, transient response (what you are referring to) worsens.
I usually go with a single 10 (or even a quality 8") for a few reasons... 1) I'm not 18 years old anymore, 2) a single 10 with a good amp sounds good enough for me and 3) I'm not interested in attracting enough attention that results in my windows being smashed in the middle of the night. Also, I was bumping comp 12's in the late 90's in a custom BOX (in a CRX) so it's interesting to me that everyone is now calling them "enclosures ". Lol. It's literally a Box
they were called enclosures 30 years ago too.
the correct term is bass reflex enclosure. It's not just a box, you need to research port tuning and box rise
@@jessevargas3289 im well aware, dont "ackshually" me. im just telling you a truth.
I remember a buddy of mine had a small 10” and it hit so hard haha and sounded fantastic I think it was a JL but I don’t exactly remember . Was very impressed with it only running like 500 watts too
It was probably a Alpine Type R! Those 10s slam so hard on 500w
JL Audio 10W3s or W6s sound amazing and hit hard too
The one thing I can say for your example of having more cone area is that 3 10s is only 10in^2 more than 2 12s which is almost nothing. every other point I think you nailed it.
the one thing I can say is that larger subs tend to hit low notes way better so if you want to rattle your car apart bigger is better. if you want clean punchy notes 8-10" subs rock.
I have 6 outa 8 😂
Going by the 15” v 10” comparison graph the 15” will be louder …
@@rfgate u wouldn't need a graph..1 15" sub would or should be louder than a 10" sub..
100 percent correct...
I did rattle my car apart, cracks in the bodywork and glass, started with a bargain amp marked up with a wrong price ?, fitted in my Escort MK6 and blew up the six 280w 6x9 speakers I fitted, replaced all with 510w 6x9 and shattered the cones, found another bargain, 15inch 1500w speakers, I fitted two in my parcel shelf and
replaced all the 510w 6x9, it worked perfectly, you cannot drive at half volume as it makes your eye wobble, makes a great body massager, I did not have a high range sound meter, only maxed out at 101db but walking away from the car it still measured 101db up to 30 meters away and crystal clear, sometimes too much is not good, RIP Escort 1991 RS2000
i’ve got a single shallow 10 in a sealed downturned enclosure. it’s unbelievably tight for metal kicks and it still pushes enough bass to make 808s sound even.
I agree totally. A 10-inch is very versatile. Mine is a forward-firing sealed 10-inch in my bedroom driven by a monoblock running from a 12-V power supply, and I have the exact same setup for my living room. And they sound fine even at low listening volumes.
I remember a coworker of mine decades ago had 2 8's in a Ford Ranger. Man, you could of sworn he had at least 2 10"s in there the way those subs hit, I was definitely impressed.
10w7 is my favorite sub ever. Perfectly small and good luck powering 4 of them in a suv. They suck up hundreds of amps. Good vid
I've had 6.5 inch to 15s. My favourite size is 10 since it still goes deep and quick bass response
With the Volume it really depends and looking at the TSP is the best way to determine that best. Some 8s use as much volume as some 12s
Weight also depends the 6,5 in my DIY studio monitors is as heavy as the 12inch in my bass guitar amp.
If I could afford a w13 that is the way I'd go. Audio control and jl audio in a system will never disappoint. I'm happy with my cheaper crap, 151 on a 3k amp isn't horrible
I have two 8" JL's and they pound but are also very musical. Sound awesome.
I had 12s and 10s my whole life but got a pair of jl 8w3s and man I've never went back. Even bought another set for my truck
My 2021 civic.. has 6 10 inch phoenix gold sx series subs [sealed], 2 phoenix gold 1200.1 sx series amps, and 4 xs power batteries. Civics booty a little sagging 😅 and yes still stock alt..😢 thanks for the uploads always watching
Multiple kicker square 8s have always been my go to.
Personally I find 8" to 15" all sound good, but there's many factors that come into play, as to what is best for the given use.
Music type and placement
@@stevesnodgrass7434 Pretty much
That's why i choose MASSIVE summo 8" subs! For my HYUNDAI KONA ,to heavy for bigger zubs and space, im not a pro car audio ,but just a simple bass make me happy❤
My personal preference is 12 inch subs in a sedan because it’s the sweet spot. 2 12s at 3000 rms combined will slap even in a sealed enclosure. Sealed enclosure take up less trunk space and is a fool proof way to get amazing SQ. As for ported boxes they can get amazing SQ if built properly to match the subwoofer driver specifically and tuned nice and low.
do your subs still hit into the high 20’s with a sealed box?
Hey Mark! I see you have quite a gap around that 13w7. I can see a nice press fit ring to lock around the clamp ring, and a custom grill over the sub. But that's my mind at work.
Cone area and air space are why I run 3 10s sealed instead of 2 12s ported in the daily. Still leaves me with 2/3 of my trunk space for groceries.
Im partial to the single 12 setup because of my listening preference...but the box size is a factor and 10s do sound more accurate.
I’m using 2 10in subwoofer’s and they sound really clean in my 2004 Honda pilot. I’m running 2 sdr’s 10s at 1 ohm
For me there’s nothing like the sound from an infinite baffle set up. It’s light weight, space saving design and pure bass enjoyment is all I need. Who care about the numbers. My #1 choice.
I don’t know much about car subs, but I like the sound of bass guitar through an amp with a 10” speaker.
Building a custom deck for my Ford C-max hybrid. Going with 8" pioneer TS-A2000LDS2 (2) and a 1600w kicker amp. This setup is removable.
Great video! There are some awesome 6.5" and 8" subwoofers available. Companies have started catering these smaller subs to fit truck under seat enclosures.
I got 6, 8” Xfire subs with 750W RMS each under the backseat of my truck. At 34Hz I hit 143dB, this was before I got it fully breaker in and tuned on the DSP. I believe it will got a few dB higher by now. It can go very very loud and deep, it does travel far!
I have an 8inch , soft spider, low spring constant in a vented enclosure for the car and for house, I got five 12inches car subwoofers and one 18 inches pa system LF driver.
One of the loudest and cleanest systems I ever put together, had two Cerwin-Vega 8"s in unusually thick ported truck boxes, that I found at a pawn shop. They lived in the back of an early 90s DSM, so plenty of room to breathe freely. Very fun for the 6-7 months I had them before they were stolen and likely went back to another pawn shop for someone else to find and enjoy... I'm glad that stuff doesn't tend to happen anymore.
I just had my subs stolen, so this hits close to home
Sorry that happened to you
@@TerenceGrier Same to you, brother. It sucks when you run across a thief in life. They usually do a decent bit of damage to the car, too. Especially the more professional ones that will attempt to strip everything out. Pretty sure pawn shops aren't allowed to buy audio equipment anymore, but I've never gotten a real straight answer on that. But if a guy walks in your pawn shop with wired speakers hanging over their shoulders and a head unit with a bent up cage still attached to it... it might be stolen.
The bigger the box 📦 the heavier it is to steal
Oh man, back in the early 90's I had CV 10's. I loved those subs so much. I even had them refoamed and used them for a few more years.
@@CarsandCats Seriously. We weren't expecting much from the little 8"s, but the more power we fed them, the further jaws started dropping. Even standing back a few steps, the thump was sill in the chest. Quality units.
This is true. This is also the reason I have an old SUV just for a large audio setup. 1500in² worth of cone area 🤣
Hey Mark, big fan, love your videos and even thinking about looking at your box designs for the back of my 2021 Subaru Crosstrek. Question though... at 5 minutes and 21 seconds of this video, did you say "the more heavy it is!"? he he he we call that "heavier" sir.. ;)
Sorry, had too, its 4am and I am watching your videos, cut me some slack!
Really glad I found this video I was in the middle of planning a blowthrough box with really large subs in my truck but ultimately an under the seat fox box with smaller subs was a better choice and get great output
The original polk SDAs were rated at 18 hz with multiple 6 inch drivers .
the bass was the fastest and cleanest i've ever heard and this was accomplished without a sub . the speed of the bass was astonishing . you could clearly hear the beginning and ending of each note with no overlap like is sometimes the case with big woofers .
Thank u for this information !
I chose 4 10s over 4 12s or 2 15s,not even sure why but glad I did sounds great
Have 2 15s in a sealed box now thinking of doing 4 10s in a ported box next
I did always want to build one of those awesome miniature horn-loaded subs that use like 2 5" drivers or something like that
Nicely said 👌
I recently swapped my old 12" Kicker Comp-C (ported box) for an Eton Force 10" (closed enclosure). Bass instantly got much cleaner. I'm also going to replace my AS Carbon 500.1D amp for a JL Audio JX1000.1D for further upgrades and for having a little extra power so I don't have to turn up the gain to max level.
It got better because an enclosed sub, in my opinion, has better sound quality than ported. And requires less wattage to run it too.
I've always been more favored tens. To me they have more clarity
I still use my old 10" infinity kapa 400rms sub. Hits like a 🚚 still!
Cone size is but one small aspect of subwoofer design and construction. As you pointed out, having the right enclosure for a given sub is one of the most important details. That being said, I find ~12-13" subwoofers to be the sweet spot in many applications. 10" and smaller subs are far harder to get super deep bass out of. It's possible, but much harder. Good 12-13" subs can maintain their output down to 20hz fairly easily in the right applications, while 15"+ subs often don't sounds as clean and end up being super massive to have the right enclosure sizing.
Had 3 10's in my civic with 2000 watts 3 sets of mb quart q series 1000 watts and it was a beast
I'd probably still go single 12 over 2 10s. Larger subs tend to dig lower in my experience.
If your 12 was a square you would have a cone area of 144 inches. 2 10"s would give you a cone area of 200 inches. If it is a choice of one 12" v 2 10's I would go with the 2 10's all the time. Now if it is 2 12's that is a different case altogether.
@@dman09191964 2x10's is perfect. If you go above that you're not doing it for the music... you're doing some show off type stuff (which two 10's is perfectly capable of. two 10's get's ridiculous. Two 12's sounds silly/obnoxious.).
@@urwholefamilydied that's a matter of opinion and opinions vary
@@urwholefamilydied I agree with you 100%. I've always had 2 10"s in my vehicles. Currently have 2 Q class 10's(Kicker) in my Ford Focus ST. It is in a custom box with subs facing up, port facing rear. I have 2000 watts RMS pushing them and it takes all of those watts no problem. I thought about going 2 12's but it would have been in a sealed box. I really believe 2 12's in a sealed box would be very musical. As for ported enclosures 2 10's every time.
@@urwholefamilydied you're wrong sir! Size won't make noticeable difference in sound if you go with well researched quality products.
Your opinion is probably based on using some cheap gears.
I used to think the bigger the sub the deeper the bass but boy was I wrong. I had a center console style box built for my extended cab Silverado and didn’t have enough room for 12s or even 10s so we went with 2 8” 1200w subs and the bass hits so low and clean sounding.. it totally switched everything up on how I thought subs worked. It’s really got a lot to do with the subs enclosure on how it sounds.
Of course you need the proper air space for a larger sub to work properly. Your experience has no bearing on the fact larger subs produce deeper bass than smaller subs. Your situation was a vehicle issue, not a sub issue.
And the "Speed" of the cone..Large cones are generally sluggish negatively impacting the Pace Rhythm and Timing of the music..They don't start and stop instantly..
The main reason 18" subs are used in concert stadiums is to throw Bass hundreds of yards to the back..Not so much for the frequencies.
Similarly horns are used for the treble ,not because they sound good but because a superior sounding conventional tweeters sound only travels a few feet.Horns transmit sound much longer distances.
The other thing is whether you want to install subs to hear and feel them or if you want to install subs to annoy everyone around you. the lower a frequency, the more distance it takes for that wave to fully develop. 10's or 12's will be more efficient in producing frequencies that are both: in the frequency band of music, and actually fully develop inside the car. 15's and 18's are more efficient at producing frequencies that will only develop outside the car. My personal preference has always been 12's. I think they strike the best balance between going super deep, and adding more musical punch. 10's will do in a cramped cargo space or in a stealth application, and it's much better to have a 10 with proper box dimensions than a 12 that's jammed into a smaller box than intended. But if you have the space, IMO 12's are the best in a car, even in a 2-12 vs. 3-10 area.
I agree with what you’re saying here. I use the term wavelength though. You hear the sound at the end of the wavelength. If the wavelength is longer than the car, it sounds better outside the car.
this is 100% false. a larger sub will produce ALLLLLL frequencies more efficiently until inductance becomes the limiting factor.
The smaller they are, generally the Faster they are with less 'Overhang'..Pace Rhythm and Timing is better.
@@OxBlitzkriegxONot at the expense of Speed or Overhang..Larger subs generally go lower but don't stop and start at good as a small driver..Big subs great for Synth stuff ..Not for Bass Guitar though
@@bryanwilliams3665 just....no. you have NO IDEA what youre talking about, lmao.
this larger subwoofer speed thing is just as cringe as people thinking you need backpressure in an exhaust system for cars.
so. many. ignorant. people.
if you have "speed" or "overhang" problems, it because you designed the box poorly or youre using the incorrect sub for the application, nothing more. stop being stupid and educate yourself.
Do you have any ideas for sub sizes and locations for a 22 tacoma? Really want to upgrade mids and highs so i can add some bass
I had one single 8 inch bazooka in the trunk of my 68 firebird and it sounded great. Better than all my friends with dual 12 inch subs in their cars.
And then you woke up?
Hi Mark, Wondering if you are going to get into more box builds.
I have been a bass player for 42 years and have used 18.15,12 and 10 inch cabs. The issue with bass is the distance it takes to mature. If i play on a small stage I will use the 10 inch cabs this because a larger speaker would not be audible close to it, I would need to be 8 feet or more distance from the cab to hear it sufficiently to monitor my sound. I am opting for an 8 inch cab to utilise this principle on stage and perhaps even using two 6.5 inch subs in my car as this principle is the same.. short distance smaller diameter subs.
Fab kitchen back at it again