One of my top 3 favorite automobiles while growing up...TR6, Spitfire GT6 fastback, and the MB 230SL. Ended up with the 230SL and have owned it for the past 25 years.
Looking good Elin ! I sure wish I'd had a power hoist when I was gapping the body on my 4A a couple of years ago, would have saved many, many hours for sure. I used 2, 1 ton chain hoists , they worked OK but again a very slow procedure. The gaps are pretty good on my car IMHO, although I still have a problem with latching of the driver's door, I'm working on it. p.s. don't forget the vise grips hanging down from the bottom of the right front fender.
You just know the factory spent that much time and care to get the gaps correct. An honest question is; Do you worry about the gaps settling after the car is driven for a while?
Jerry Houck I am not sure about that. I’ve replaced a fan belt on a tr6 before and didn’t need to remove the crossmember. I know the design on the TR6 is not the best, bat that would be a major fail.
Tony Millward The gaps were good before I took the body off many months ago and the purpose of the braces was to hold the body in the same position so I only need to adjust the diagonals of the door opening and it worked well. There is always the question of wether I put too much tension one way or another and everything shifts after they are removed, but If everything works well that shouldn’t be the case. What is the point of the braces if they stay on for months and they get removed before the body is fastened?
An incredible labor of love. So wonderful to see these “cars of my youth” come back to life. Great job.
Excellent tutorial on adjusting body gaps.
One of my top 3 favorite automobiles while growing up...TR6, Spitfire GT6 fastback, and the MB 230SL. Ended up with the 230SL and have owned it for the past 25 years.
Good morning Elin. I have done door gaps before on one of my pickups and it is an exercise in patience to say the least. Good work.
Another big step !! Congrats.....
Looking good Elin !
I sure wish I'd had a power hoist when I was gapping the body on my 4A a couple of years ago,
would have saved many, many hours for sure. I used 2, 1 ton chain hoists , they worked OK but again
a very slow procedure. The gaps are pretty good on my car IMHO, although I still have a problem with
latching of the driver's door, I'm working on it.
p.s. don't forget the vise grips hanging down from the bottom of the right front fender.
Friend at university had a 4A. Happy days.
Before you tighten the cross member in, get the belt in there. That width can be so tight.... easier now than later.
Gaps look good. Springs are a little too high for my tastes.
cheftush yep, John is not happy with them too
Ever think of using hot glue to secure the pads and shims while you maneuver the body around?
I could have used my favorite spray glue, but they stayed so I didn't need to
You just know the factory spent that much time and care to get the gaps correct.
An honest question is; Do you worry about the gaps settling after the car is driven for a while?
You are going to have to remove that front cross member to install the fan belt.
Jerry Houck I am not sure about that. I’ve replaced a fan belt on a tr6 before and didn’t need to remove the crossmember. I know the design on the TR6 is not the best, bat that would be a major fail.
What with orange is it the camera ?
Put in a bigger radiator and oil cooler !
Elin, you really need to remove the door braces before you start adjusting the gaps mate.
Tony Millward The gaps were good before I took the body off many months ago and the purpose of the braces was to hold the body in the same position so I only need to adjust the diagonals of the door opening and it worked well. There is always the question of wether I put too much tension one way or another and everything shifts after they are removed, but If everything works well that shouldn’t be the case. What is the point of the braces if they stay on for months and they get removed before the body is fastened?