1970 Triumph TR6 Retsoration Project - Part 1 - Frame Repair
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- We had a customer, who brought his TR6 for a frame repair. I took the opportunity to film and share the process. Hopefully it will be helpful for some restoration enthusiasts.
Beautiful work. Being mindful of keeping the frames straight and repairing it with the strongest welds is obviously very important
It may be an old video, but it still has content that will be good for years to come.
That was really interesting, fun to watch too
It is really nice to see such high quality work done. The world is filled with hacked-together videos of people that are convinced they know what they're doing. In this case, I'm convinced that you know what YOU'RE doing. That's fantastic. Thanks for sharing. This is the kind of education that I am always hoping for when I watch youtube videos, but I rarely find. Great job!
Thanks for the nice comment. I am not a pro and I learn as I go, but I always try to explain my way of thinking and why I do things, so other people can learn with me or learn from my mistakes, which I don't cut out... usually LOL Thanks again!
Nice work mate !!
Proper job Elin, it's wonderful to see the care and skill you put into your work.
I think body on frame cars are great they have so many advantages over unibody cars. Its great to see a piece of metal that's being replaced rather than patched it looks more original.
Oh, yeah, the advantages are more than the negatives, I agree!
Elin Yakov You wouldn't been able to do that if it was a unibody. Can't wait to see another British classic restored.
The reason I watched this video is that yesterday I drove 375 miles to look at a TR6.. It was a very good car except for the door gaps.
At the bottom rear of both doors 1/8th inch (3 mm) At the to 5/8ths inch (16 mm). It was obvious to me that there was a frame problem.
I declined purchase because I specifically did not want to get into another frame off car.
Excellent video..Thanks . I have passed this on to the owner of the car.
One other note.. If I were the owner of the car you were working on.. I would have stripped the frame down and proceeded with a proper restoration.. Now was the perfect time. Just my opinion.
Yes, door gaps are a pretty good sign for a frame issue.
Well, this actually turned into a pretty deep restoration, as you can see this is only part 1 of many. Unfortunately I wasn't able to finish this restoration as the owner of the car and my boss had some issues and parted ways before the car was ready, but there are few more project TR6s and Spitfires that I completed or I am still working on and you can watch those restorations on my CZcams channel.
Very good restoration. A great idea to make a jig for the replacement part so that it fits exactly where it should. You have excellent skills and keep putting up more videos of chassis restorations. All the very best 🙂
Wow, excellent restoration work and nice video !!
Wow, you are a craftsman!!!
Great work. Great reminder to do the job properly.
Really like your videos, you are an artist with these cars! Nice to see it being done correctly, thank you for posting.
vary nice thanks for all your hard work and sharing it
Thanks, Jim! How is Rubby Blue doing?
+Elin Yakov I dive it to work every day needs front suspension bushings little Rattalie breaks spongy ect but she's a keeper love her more every day
I am so happy for you!
After I drove mine home yesterday and everything went well, I took her on her first real road trip today after the engine was replaced with the freshly rebuilt 1296cc one. 160km and she behaved so well. We went with my son to a British car flee market near Toronto and I met so many people who I know from CZcams. It was a great day! One day I will drive down to Hawaii for a beer with you! LOL
Nice job? Thank you for posting.
hey great work and video
have to replace those one a few of mine also
it seems they all fail in that spot badly
check under the top of the t shirt also it is another know rust area
i like the jig idea might try that
keep going and posting
I am slower than you in getting things done
keep it up
Thanks, Oliver! Yes, they all have this weak spot and the front inner rockers too, because of the drains of the air chamber. They literally drain the water on top of the sills behind the font fenders
You should have called me as I used to build these at Standard - Triumph in Coventry in the 70s.
Thanks !
Does anyone manufacture new frames for the tr 6? That would be the way to go when restoring one of these. This was excellent work here. Great video.
two that i have found... www.fastcarsinc.com/product/tr6-rolling-chassis/ and www.rat-co.com/new-2x3-tr6
I really like the jig idea Elin! Did you save them by chance? I could probably use them on an upcoming project. Nice work!
Sure, Dave! Any time you need them. I kept them and I even upgraded the positioning one to fit the right side too. I will post a video about it.
Elin Yakov awesome! I have a TR250 to do eventually. Cheers, Tush
Elin your videos are an incredible resource. I am getting ready to make a serious attempt a my 72 TR6 chassis. I have seen in a couple of your videos where you lift the body with an overhead hoist. Can you provide more detail as to what body points you are connecting the straps? Especially where you reach down into the engine bay and make a connection. The rear straps look like you might be connecting to seat belt anchors. Am I correct? Thank You.
Yes, I connect two straps to the seat belt anchors at the bottom of the B-post and that pretty much balances the body. The front end is a little bit heavier than the rear, but the difference is so small that many times I do not even use a third strap, I just lift the front end and navigate it with one hand. Whenever I need my hands I use a third strap in the engine bay and usually I hook it up to the top of the transmission opening. Again, the entire weight is on the 2 rear straps. this third strap won't damage anything. I hope that helps
@@RustyBeauties Thank you for the feedback. Just for more clarity on my part, based on this pic (link below), if you were using a third strap you would hook it at the top center of the transmission tunnel opening and if using a third and fourth strap you would hook them at the lower left and right of the opening. Correct?
Credit this photo to MacysGarage www.macysgarage.com/index_htm_files/1337.jpg
Nice job, but it isn't a cross member, it's called an out rigger. I had to do the same job on my old TR6.
As this is a weak area of the TR6 did you replace the right side also? Seems a false economy to not do that.
I agree. It is not worth going through all the work to lift the body and not changing both sides. The customer asked us just to patch the right side, but we convinced him it was a bad idea, so we are doing the other side now.
Was the TR6 the last body on frame Triumph car?
Yes, 7 and 8 have unibody and this is where the chain breaks :)
That was the beauty of TR6's. For me the TR6 and the Stag was the last 2 greatest cars Triumph built.
I am looking to buy a clasic car and the TR6 is lovely BUT !! any car of that age which has a box section chassis will always be a problem.Rust from the inside out.I had a Land Rover discovery D2 chassis looked ok outside but rusted badly on the inside. If only waxyle or something simular was inserted into the cavities on the box sectionwhen being built,but of course the manufactors had no interest in making the cars last longer...sadly.
What's the name of your shop.. I have a tr6 that needs to be restored
Hi Don. I am sorry, our shop's main business is limousine building and the Triumphs are just a hobby. Usually we do not take customer's cars for restorations as we are too busy. We took just one from a friend when we were not busy, but we had to put it to the side couple of times already. I usually restore our own Triumphs in the shop only after hours and in weekends and my schedule is full two years ahead.... I am sorry about that.
Hi Don. I spoke to the owner of the shop and he is actually interested, as long as you are not in a great hurry with the car. Wwe are very, very busy right now, but If you could send me some more information and pictures to my email ecibg@yahoo.com it would be great. I will email you back with details of the shop and we can arrange something. If you are still interested you can even come to the shop, see what we are doing and discuss more details.
Do not use small grinder with no guard it is stupid use bigger grinder if you need to get in somewhere easier to control no guard no arm or leg if it kicks or blade breaks up
No improvement over the original design...the rusting will re-occur on the replacement strut! Why didn't you use a "channel" instead of the "tube"?
After watching this video I decided not to buy that kind of cars.
Hire a camera man