Elegoo Neptune 4 Max Upgrades and Weekly Maintenance
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- čas přidán 20. 11. 2023
- A buddy of mine that’s new to 3D Printing asked me to make a video on what I have done to keep my Elegoo Neptune 4 Max printing quality stuff.
Thingiverse Files To Print
X Axis Belt Knob Lock - www.thingiverse.com/thing:620...
Cable Chain - www.thingiverse.com/thing:629...
Silicone Heat Bed Bushings Upgrade - amzn.to/3R8UkVf
refreshing to hear a review from someone who actually tries to solve the problems and doesnt just cry about them, thanks! buying one tomorrow
Thank you for the encouragement. I do cry about them but then I put my big boy pants on and try to solve the problem. LoL
Fantastic video! I need to order some of those silicone pads
I’m also testing some bed mods to hopefully help keep the bed leveled longer.
@@Extreme4x4Dude Is it possible to buy more tensioned springs for the bed as an upgrade so it stays leveled longer?
Great advice! I've been knocking out some fantastic prints with mine and I'm a total noob at this. At the end of every big print or filament change I always check the rollers and belt tensions
Great to hear!
Hey I wanted to say thanks you solved a lot of my issues… I was still having issues but the firmware update fixed everything now!
Happy to hear this helped.
This is so spot on!
I think, one of the major problems is, that manufacturers suggest to their customers that 3D printing is as easy as 'normal' printing, but there is so much more to it.
3D printing is high maintenance. Next to the daily and weekly routines come tasks like replacing the nozzle or the ptfe-tube where you can easily destroy parts of your printer if you are not careful enough (i.e. breaking the ceramic heater when grabbing the hot end in order to unscrew the nozzle... been there, done that, no T-Shirt...). And yes, there are tutorials from Elegoo for those tasks here on YT, but yeah, if you got two left hands, all thumbs you end up breaking things. But that's not a marketing message to increase sales ;-)
Thanks for the confirmation that’s it’s not just me having bad luck. I swear I’m always fixing one of my printers. I’ve owned 4 different brands of printers and they all break eventually.
Great video- I have a 3 MAX and almost no issues. The SUNLU pla+ I got off Amazon is great and settings between black and silk copper are basically the same. I put my pla in humidity controlled boxes - which could also effect people’s prints. Week one - fresh pla then week 2 the pla could be full of humidity and dust…so one other thing to watch for. Great tip on the belt dial locks and cable chain. There’s a z axis cleaning tool to get crud out of the big up n down screws. Still trying to find the slicer settings for the supplied Buddha print cus those print perfect every time. Gonna watch more of your videos now.
Thanks for the video, I am starting to gain some experience with an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max, and I experience 3 or 4 issues, now I will apply what you teach in the video to reduce the future issues.
Glad it helped.
Thanks for the feedback, I think I might have to pick up one of these.
Holy crap, yours is flying!
I’m printing around 250mms and .2 layer height.
I am looking at buying one and your video is very helpful. Definitely getting one when there's a deal, Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great information been struggling with mine 4 plus for weeks
This is a great video and has helped me with my Neptune 4 Max
A guide for what to tighten would be amazing.
I’ll try and put something together.
Thanks for sharing your experience with it.
My pleasure!
I have the 4 plus but that tip on turning off combing really helped. I also had a few prints get kicked off the bed before making the adjustment.
Glad it helped! I had to beef up supports as well.
Is combing in the slicer settings or the actual printer?
Mine is now getting a dragging type sound , but that's not it. Any suggestions?
@@blazet9860I believe combing is in Cura if you’re using Cura then it’s under Travel settings. Enabling Z Hop should also help. It’s in the same section in Cura. If you’re using another slicer software I can look up where Z Hop is and let you know.
@Extreme4x4Dude I'm using the elegoo cura.
The sound I'm now getting sounds like a lube issue along the z axis. What can I safely use there?
@@blazet9860if it’s coming from the Z Rod then I would say White Grease. This is what I use on my Z Rods. amzn.to/3NuHcrg
Good video. I took my large fan off too. It causes clogs. If a print started to fail it would hold everything right by the nozel. I felt like it was safer to run without out it and just go a tiny bit slower.
I'm so glad I found this video, thanks!
Your welcome!
Sounds like some blue loctite would help all parts from loosening up so you don't have to tighten them every week. Figured once the belts and v-wheels are broken in, it should be set it and forget it for awhile. Thanks for pointing all this out. Still on the fence about getting one. Hard to beat it for the price even with all the little issues.
I got the N4+. Is my first journey into printing and so far has been pretty good. I have had a couple of failed prints but due to user error and we all have to learn sometime. I am still running stock firmware I think like .28 and have not upgraded the firmware yet as things just seem to be working nice. I do have an issue when I turn the printer off and later back on and also when I change filament, I have got into the habbit rightly or wrongly of doing a small first layer test prob 10cm diameter and find that the first one i do every time looks like the z is too low and for a while i would go up and down until I found it good again but it sometimes took a good few tries. Now I run a small first layer and rather than making adjustment I wait till it's complete and then run it again straigt away or just start a print and get a great first layer every time. Sorry for all my woes. Anyway thanks for the informative notes to take heed of. I am curious as to whether there is a specific type or brand of white grease you recomend and also I have noticed the pom wheels on the gantry wearing a bit and wondered when they need replaced and whether the generic vpoms like the unes used on creality printers would be the thing to get or are they manufacturer specific? cheers, look forward to more ;)
Thank you for watching and I hope the information is useful. I have had similar experiences with both the EN4M and the AK2M. Sometimes I start a print and adjust the z height on the fly. Once I get it right I stop the print and restart it right away with the z height. Seems to help. I noticed a firmware update is available for the 4 Max but I’m waiting to see how other people’s updates go first. I’d hate to update and make things worse. I do believe they are a standard size POM wheel. I have some extra ones so maybe I should check. 🤔
I added the M600 macro and tried a color swap that would work all day on my Cr10 but got the same layer shift you mentioned. I'm going to try the M600 with and without the filament runout sensor enabled and see if it makes a difference.
Did you ever come to any conclusions with this? Are you able to do a klipper macro to disable and reenable the runout sensor?
wow, great advice..... after almost 2 months of owning neptune 4 pro I just realized the wheels and some screws weren't tight enough.
Glad it helped!
A lot of good tips in this video
Thank you!
@@Extreme4x4Dude welcome I subscribe!
Love the video. Thanks for sharing. I am curious...how to you actually "level" the gantry. If the right side of the gantry is a bit higher than the left side....how do you lower the right side to match the left? Both Zrods spin at the same time. Thanks for the help.
I’ve got the plus and max. Straight outta the box my eccentric nuts on the bed was all out of what. Middle ones was severely over tightened. Took days but my max is printing now. I about threw the wrench in lol.
That sounds like my experience with 3D printing. When you feel like smashing it, walk away and try again later. I swapped out the Pom wheels for linear rails and ditched the eccentric nuts. Life is so much nicer now. I was getting about 6 weeks out of my Pom wheels before having to replace them. Someone said it was probably because I had them to tight but I’ve been doing this along time and I really don’t think that’s why. These new machines print so damn fast that they just wear out quickly.
While I expect that printers of a certain price range seem to fall into the "hobby spec for upgrades" end, having that happen either out of the box or within a week of ownership means the thing was adapted from a smaller platform with the same parts and is wearing itself out Real quick. I have a fairly steep maintenance regime with a 6 year old delta that's two meters tall, at this point it burns through hot ends about once a year and is due for a bottom-up rebuild this year. If I were getting _that_ experience from new, I think I'd be swinging an axe or flaming pitchfork too!
I am still setting up my new Neptune 4 Max printer but I also have been watching various videos such as yours. When I ordered the printer I also ordered Multi-Sizes Nozzles for Neptune 4PLUS/4MAX. I am wondering if you would be willing to do another video talking about the advantages and disadvantages when using the different sized nozzles?
That’s not a bad idea. Thank you 🙏
I learned from motorcycles and RC helicopters that blue locktite is pretty much required for all metal-to-metal bolts if you don't want them shaking free.
Thank you for your insight
Great video from someone that actually uses the printer for work so he knows what he is talking about. What filament do you use with your Elegoo Neptune printer ?
Thank you. I tend to use Meta PLA by Sunlu or Jayo. I also love Elegoo’s PLA Plus filament.
Excellent video!, I like the frame stickers that are there for checking the cross leveling situation.
Can I ask what skull model you have in the background?... looks cool :)
Thank you. The skull model is from Galactic Armory. It’s a Darth Maul Skull.
@@Extreme4x4Dude Cool, thank you for that, I'll go look it up
I wonder if for the screws for some of that could be maintained by putting some low level lock tight.
Would love to see a full weekly maintenance guide.
I’ll see what I can come up with. 😉👍
@@Extreme4x4Dude What would be extremely nice is showing the actual steps for maintenance (i.e tensioning bolts), or belt tensioning etc. instead of an active print :) Otherwise great advice
@@noahchav I’m actually working on posting a video that does this very thing. 😉👍
@@Extreme4x4Dudeawesome! Looking forward to it. The wife gifted me one for Christmas, and the first thing I looked into was maintenance.
I have the same printer, and I absolutely love it. It's my first printer, and I find that it works really well. Every time I have an issue, I am able to solve it pretty easily with general maintenance. I dont really understand why the reviews are so bad.
The one thing i did that improved my prints massively was to switch to Orca slicer. Im honestly not sure what it is, but my prints look better, and my machine runs a lot smoother as well.
Thanks for sharing! I love mine too. I actually bought a second one I loved it so much. The linear raid and silicone bushings are a huge help as well. A bit of blue Loctite on the knobs helps them from giggling loose all the time. I went a step further and replaced the bed knobs with locking nuts. It’s a bitch to manually level the first time but I haven’t had to manually level the bed since and it’s been months.
@@Extreme4x4Dude I figure regular levelling wheels that incorporate nyloc nuts would be the best option, but noone has produced them.
I have found the exact same thing. I've been printing for years, and Cura has always been awful (at least with the stock configs)
Thanks for the video, this is great! I recently bought a Neptune 4 plus as my first printer and this is very helpful. Are there any videos or guides on installing the silicone buffers? I think I would like to try that but am nervous to mess around too much with the hardware.
Made a video on removing the bed for adding silicone bushings so I’ll get that loaded today.
@@Extreme4x4Dude I'll keep an eye out, thank you!
I can help you with the layer shift issue. In your printer.cfg for klipper find the macro that activates when the filament runout sensor triggers. Comment out the line that tells it to home during filament change. A proper filament change macro should tell the printer to move to the front center of the print volume thenm return without homing. Sesnorless homing is great but this is the primary shortcoming of it.
this could have saved me some time had I found it a month ago... You are 100% correct! great printer but requires regular upkeep! I have no problem with that but I suffered from the Z leveling issues which caused a thermal runaway, get new printhead it clogged almost immediately after not sensing or saving the Z height, which also gouged two beds ( I used my n3pro's as well). So in fixing that tried to replace the nozzle and it snapped off the neck in the heating block. .then the first update came out. Thought it was fixed, nope. Printhead grabbed the top of a very well adhered PETG CF print..... holy hell. snapped the bottom of the frame right off the printhead! but with my trusty three I managed to print a hero me upgrade and wired up the stock fan to get it working again only to struggle for a few weeks of checking this or that to go through most of what you did until I realized it wasn't just a hardware issue. that was about three days before the update; which has resolved most of my issues.
I guess I'm saying I understand why people gave up but with how good my three was I knew it could be great and it is, now anyway.I still love it you Won't get a better bang for your buck! oh and F the nozzles ! do yourself a favor and just order volcano nozzles and adjust your Z height for the difference. upgraded to 5015 blower fans printing at 200mm/s.... now waiting on .08 and 1.0mm nozzles!
I must be in a cult, I still love it
And I'm off to order silicon spacers and print the cable chain that I've been putting off. keep up the good work!
Holly hell that sucks. I’m like you though and I eventually work through the issue. Overcoming it all feels like a great accomplishment but the process is still very frustrating. Glad yours is working better now. I’m interested in that volcano swap. Need to learn more about that. I did just receive my order for .6 and .8 nozzles so I’m going to give those a try soon.
@@Extreme4x4Dude this is where I learned about it. this guy does some really interesting testing +breaks it down really well. Been using a .08 on my three minor adjustment on outter wall inset and wow czcams.com/video/RWDErj-pE1c/video.html&ab_channel=CNCKitchen
Great video! Curious what slicer you are using.
I’m using the regular Cura slicer not the Elegoo version. I have a video on how I setup a profile in cura.
first thing i did when i got mine i ran it made a great print then i put the blue loktight on all screws
Smart choice! 👍
I wonder if a removeable thread locker like Vibra-Tite would help? I am an aerospace engineer and we used to use the stuff to secure bolts on stuff we made to ride into space on the Space Shuttle in the payload bay. Therefore I think that it is a good candidate for keeping stuff tight under heavy vibration.
On my new Elegoo Neptune 4 Max I’ve switched out the springs for silicone bushings and switched out the knobs for locking nuts and I did add a little bit of blue locktite. So far it’s been printing great.
Thanks for the tips! I think your comment on combing may be the issue I'm having with my N4P! I've been trying to print a large, flat platform for a lamp, and the infill always gets ruined. It's like it is scraping the surface despite the z height being perfect. Hopefully turning it off will remedy that.
Glad it was helpful! Make sure z hope is enabled and you don’t use grid infill as well.
@@Extreme4x4Dude It did fix it! That was driving me nuts. I guess I had combing on by default. I was printing with cubic sub, but I had tried grid and it was even worse. I haven't touched z hop, but I'll look into it as well. Thanks again!
Did you put silicone spacers in the center or just leave the metal ones?
Also did you have to trim the insulation to get the spacers in there? The holes in the insulation look smaller than the spacer and would possibly crush the insulation.
I did replace the two center spacers with the silicone bushings. I did not trim anything.
There are settings in the printer setup where you can set the distance the head travels so that it wont hit on the side when it homes. These machines where not properly set when it came to dimensions.
I’ve heard this before but never found where it was or how to change it.
@@Extreme4x4Dude The newest updates should have done this now automatically
My problem with n4max is that it seems to ignore my mesh. I added screw tilt adjust. added center as base, because i cant align that. 6 corners are compared to center. i adjust all the screws so its max 00:01. i go autolevel. i get 0.4 tolerance. no idea how, z heights simply change from the screw adjust test to the mesh test. its okay, we have autolevel. i get my mesh, but it doesnt seem to apply it. if edges are ok (z height ok), middle is almost touching the nozzle. if z height is adjusted on the middle, filament wont touch the edges.
Go into klipper and find your pause macro in your cfg files. Then you will find the line that moves the print head to a safe location during the pause. My guess is the X value for the pause is at X0 and that's why it's hitting the gantry, change it to like X5 or something so it won't bottom out
Maybe slow the movement for the pause down too. If it is slamming into endstop.....
So I’m looking into this because both of my printers seem to layer shift after filament changes. One printer shows M601 and the other Shows M0. Both basically mean pause but neither of them show anything else as far as gcode is concerned in the Pause Print G-Code section.
can you please make a video showing how the tight your belts are? This would be so so so helpfull
Working on a video now. 😉👍
Hey man, just bought a neptune 4 max. I also looked at the files which you dropped the link but I saw there are more than one file. Which one am I gonna print?
Any chance we can have a instruction or tutorial on how to replace the springs with the silicone bushing upgrades?
I just got my N4max and haven't assembled it yet. or is it hard to replace? thanks
It’s not that tough but I have taken the bed apart a few times so I don’t see why I couldn’t make a video on the install. 😉👍
Wow, a lot goes into this one. I will be honest, I am horrible at maintenance. My last printer I ran it for over a year straight and did not do any of this. I releveled it a few times, maybe once every few months, and aside from the nozzle that was all I did. If it wasn't for the machine getting water damage and messing up the main board (I think) I would still use the N2S.
This is the first time I’ve had to do this much maintenance on a 3D printer buts it’s also my first 3D printer that can print at 250mms and looks amazing. Plus it’s a massive bed slinger. I’m testing the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max right now and working on a comparison video. So far it’s less maintenance but I did just experience a glitch in the firmware or something that ruined my print. The review was looking good for Anycubic until this happened. Lol
@@Extreme4x4Dude That is a good point, the faster the machine goes, presumably, more maintenance should go into it. My biggest issue is the nozzles though. Look forward to the AK2M, even with the firmware issue, review.
I thought the Neptune 4 Max came with a big fan assembly on the back of the print bar? Did you remove it?
It does and I did. I wanted to see if it was helping or not. So far I haven’t noticed a difference other than it’s quieter now. I’m printing around 250mms using Sunlu Silk PLA. Maybe a different filament or more speed would justify the big fan but so far it’s working great for me without it.
Would it help to add loctite to some of those nuts you mention that keep loosening?
I tried red loctite and it worked a little to well. Maybe blue because they still have to be adjustable.
is there a reason you dont put blue locktight on it
I was planning on getting the Neptune 4 plus. Are the bolts loosening a common issue with most fdm printers?
Stuff does come loose on most printers especially if they are fast ones. Adjusting eccentric nuts, tightening belts, and leveling bed is probably the most common. Some printers require slightly less maintenance. I have not had the privilege to get one that doesn’t but I hear they exist.
I eventually had my 4 Pro shake so hard that all the beds level dials fall off and it blobbed the entire printhead. Before that happened I had just re-leveled it washed the build plate and even put down some glue stick. As per usual I watch the first few layers go down at 40% speed and then increased it a little bit for the rest and went to bed and woke up to the entire printed being engulfed in a blob, of course this is not unusual. Usually people just turn on and heat up the system and melt the blob but my system wouldn't even turn on because it couldn't sense the nozzle. This was within 14 days so I asked to return it. Getting a Bambu A1 mini instead. Will get a bigger bed slinger too but haven't decided which one yet. Just a bit worried about these ELEGOO's. I had many pretty successful prints and some really bad. I learned a lot from looking up all the different reasons, but gave up when I was blobbed. Of course offered to send me a new printhead. But I also decided that I needed a bigger, build volume like the max or the plus at least.
That sucks. Sorry to hear that. Good luck with the new printer.
Would lock washers fix the nuts becoming loose without causing any other issues?
They might. I don’t have any the correct size so I haven’t tried that yet.
Would you recommend updating the firmware? Mine came with the .21 and It always does an extra bump on the x and z when homin and grinds just a tad. Other than that the prints were amazing
I did update my firmware. I can’t honestly say it changed anything for the good or bad on mine.
Hey the firmware update has mine now perfect and it was printing really bad… but my WiFi doesn’t work now, that’s an issue they are working on right now I guess
I just got the neptune 4 pro and it is grinding when it goes down and then stops. Can't find anything getting in the way and updated all my firmware. All the belts seem perfect too and lubed everything up.
That’s odd. Grinding is not a good sound. I think I would get in touch with support for that one. Have you joined their discord or Facebook group yet?
I got the N4 Pro. While assembling I used blue locktite. I use this every time I assemble a printer. The problem I ran into was not cleaning and greasing the linear rods on X and Y axis.
I used Superlube silicone PTFE grease and it works great.
Need to get a bed kit for mine. Leveling isn't hard, but I seen to do it way more often on the Neptune than my other printer. More speed, more vibration, goes out of adjustment quicker...
Thanks for sharing
I came here to ask specifically about loctite. Did you use it on all screws?
@@John-of3urI used red Loctite on a couple bed screws just to test it out. It was not helpful and it kind of made things worse. Maybe blue would work better? I’m still playing around with the silicon bushings to try and tighten them enough to make them work better.
@@Extreme4x4Dude blue is designed to easily be replaceable with common tools, whereas red is a more permanent fix
@@Extreme4x4Dude you definitely don't want red. Blue is what you want
Add a drop of clear nail polish to the threads before putting the nuts on. They won’t loosen on you anymore.
Or just use blue loctite
@@br310xyou wanna take them out later
@@Fantomasxpexactly....blue loctite....
Agree 100%
How many links did you print for your max?
that printers runs on klipper right.
The way it movies out for a filament change can be redon in the software.
And you could even add a machine base measurement so it does not even touch the side.
Klipper is awesome for that.
And you can easy add or remove scripts.
I am having the z offset issue super bad, did you tighten up the bolts that hold the little brass pieces that the Z rods run through? Originally tightened mine up because they come loose.. When I started having issues I loosened them up back how they came and my problems are worse than ever. I can have a layer perfectly level and uniform looking then half way through its seems like the Z offset is way too low. Sometimes I go to print and the z offset is way to high sometimes its way too low. could these problems be associated with the bed being unlevel because those knobs under bed are coming loose?
Those little brass pieces on the z rods are meant to be loose. Make sure your z rods are greased. The bed screws loosen up all the time on me. I just printed some bed screw locks to give them a try. My concern from what you mentioned would be the z gantry changing. You definitely want that thing to stay level.
@@Extreme4x4Dude okay 👍… so maybe worth a firmware update to see if that fixes my random z offset problem… otherwise keep those brass things loose and everything else pretty tight and mechanically I should be okay?, my issue probably lies in the software or something.
can u do a video of installing the silicon heat bed bushing upgrade Please
Yes I can. I’ve had the bed apart a few times. I should have done one at that time. 🤦♂️
@@Extreme4x4Dude Thank you I also got the linear rails for y and x axis I haven’t even turned it on yet I assembled it and went to take the play out of the y axis and was unable to then seen this upgrade for 150 figured I’d wait to turn it on until I get the machine as close to level and no play as possible
What size silicone bushels did you buy?
I added links for everything in the video description but here’s the link for just the bushings. amzn.to/3R8UkVf
hmm, my 4 max randomly stops printing mid-print...then i upgraded the firmware it seems to help. but it still stops sometime for some reason...but no one seems to have the same problem..
Add some jam nuts under the wheels to lock in your bed level.
I actually used locking nuts and some blue locktite. I haven’t had to manually level the bend since. It was a pain to manually level it the first time with locking nuts though.
I replaced my pom wheels with linear rails. No problems.
Me too! I love the linear rails upgrade.
Thanks for this! Wish i'd seen this sooner, never heard of the "blob of death" or any issues with the neptune 4 series, I got my neptune 4 last friday, come monday night I do a long print and now my print head is fucked :/
That sucks to hear.
@@Extreme4x4Dude support have been frictionless and I already have a new print head on the way, I am very grateful
@@m1ghtyboy they’re the best!
today screw that held filament sensor unscrewed during the print :D
When you said white grease did you mean white lithium grease? Sorry I’m new to filament printing. Thank you for the video! Super useful.
That is correct. It’s what I’ve been using.
@@Extreme4x4Dude Thank you!
Hm I'm getting ready to get into 3d printing would this one be a bad printer for a first one?
I would say that there are easier printers to learn on.
Did you find the wheel bushings work better than the springs to hold the bed level ? Ty
I think only slightly better. I still have to relevel the bed weekly it seems.
@@Extreme4x4Dude me to on my Neptune pro 4
@@Extreme4x4Dude 1. Check build plate heat. Most 3D printers come with a heated build plate these days.
2. Level your bed. The most important layer in any print is the very first...
3. Clean the build plate....
4. Ensure the model lies flat.
Would it help to slow it down a bit... slower is less vibrations
Slowing it down would help. Plus I print 24/7.
Do you use elagoo cura or cura?
I use regular Cura but I just started using Prusa slicing software and I’ve checked out Orca. Prusa and Orca are almost identical. Mostly just user interface that’s different. I might make a video on using Prusa next.
Can locktight be used on some of it?
I used blue Loctite. Never use red.
I bought Neptune 4 max recently whatever i tried there are layer shifts for every print not able to print anything
Assuming you followed all the suggested info in the video and checked everything is properly adjusted and you’re still are having issues, have to tried updating the firmware? That’s helped some other people.
I change filament while it’s running so I don’t get layer shift I did find like ur self that rollers loosen often
I tried that once. It didn’t work out well for me. 😞
@@Extreme4x4DudeI have Neptune 3 pro Neptune 4 and 4 max I do it almost every day I think there is a video on CZcams showing how to do it good luck happy printing
Have you had the z offset issue people are reporting? Dang z offset changes every print, every bootup. The times I have managed to dial the z offset during the first layer it's a solid machine.
I have had to relevel weekly. The silicone bushings helped a little but not enough.
@@Extreme4x4Dude Thanks for the response, ill look into the bushings also
@@FlippingTurtlesI’m currently printing some bed screw locks I just found on thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:6273653
@@Extreme4x4Dudecurious, how did the bed screw locks work out?
which nozzle do you use?
I have a .4 Nozzle. Elegoo hasn’t released any other nozzle size than .4 for the 4 Max. Supposed to see some options this month.
Would you be kind enough to share your print profiles? Is not for me,i got a bambu but for a friend and maybe for other people as well,thanks and great video
I actually just posted another video showing how I setup my Cura Neptune 4 profile and the settings I changed. I might post another more in-depth video on my settings once I feel like I’ve really dialed them in but what works for me might not work for everyone else mainly because the filament you use greatly affects the settings you need. I cover a lot of that in the video as well. Hope it helps.
@@Extreme4x4Dude where is that video on set up Neptune pro 4 ? Ty
I updated my firmware and I’m having more issues than BEFORE updating it. When I do get it printing, it seems like its doing great, then my print pops off and causes it to fail. I’m using their same textures pei plate. I have it on all my other printers and had zero issues. Any suggestions?
I had similar issues at first. Mine turned out to be weak supports that kept breaking. The bed adhesion was good but my supports needed to be beefed up.
Orca slicer helped
Even if you pause the print, it will do a layer shift!
I turned off combing because my print got knocked down, but then I got a mcu shutdown error. What can I do to fix this
Is this error on your printer or your computer? Slicer software has a tendency to take a lot of CPU.
would Loctite benefit many of these issues?
Maybe blue. I sued the red because that’s what I had and it made things worse. 🤦♂️
Cable chains are meant to be supported on both ends with a limit on bend radius. They're also meant to be used with specific cable types and without any sort of sleeve. It's more likely that you're shortening the life of those bed wires rather than extending them as intended. If you really want cable chain then swap the wires for ptfe insulated wires or even actual cable chain wires, print mount points for chains on the bed and frame (so there isn't added stress on the cables), and buy/print some proper cable chains. You can check out the voron zip chains or the micron printed cable chains.
Thanks for the advice.
Here’s the last missing piece.
www.printables.com/model/655765-elegoo-neptune-4-max-build-plate-alignment-tabs
What type of grease do you use to lubricate?
I use this grease on my z rods. amzn.to/4bBRLCA
I use this oil on just about everything else. amzn.to/3UWIDTt
Hey, can you please share your prusa slicer setting for Neptune 4 max?
I haven’t used PrusaSlicer for the Elegoo’s. I could try and setup something though.
@@Extreme4x4Dude thanks let me know once done
Where is the back fan?
I took it off. It wasn’t helping anything.
Question, would bolt Locktite blue work?
So I used red locktite on a couple bed screws. It did make things a little difficult when trying to level the bed but maybe the blue would be better. 🤔
@@Extreme4x4Dude no loctite your looking for trouble
do you have an amazon link to the right white grease?
Here’s a spray version I’ve used.
amzn.to/473lAZS
Here’s a non spray version that I’m using now.
amzn.to/41qw1pi
@@Extreme4x4Dude thank you! I went to buy some last month and my brain went into analysis paralysis
Your Y axis wire chain is not really working the way it is supposed to. Because its basically floating in the air, its only bending your wires in one spot which will damage the wires much faster. You should also put a little oil on your roller wheels to prevent them from chafing and turning white like they look in the video. I use superlube with ptfe and i put a tiny drop on my finger and then just roll the wheel while i smear it on. You just want them to look a little glossy so they glide along easier in the v slot.
hay my neptune 4 max. is not printing good. when i start a print it comes out all string and dose not stick to the bed. and get stuck to the nosse?
I have a video for that!😉👍 czcams.com/video/_PjAUaImt4M/video.htmlsi=3F18trRMaf2kmkrt
@@Extreme4x4Dude thank you so much i didn’t kown what that z access thing did
@@Extreme4x4Dudegot my sub
I have bought this printer last month, but from a week or something more I my prints have some layer separation, on the other printers that i have I haven't experienced this problem yet, is it a common problem? how can i fix that?
I’m experiencing this very same thing right now on my Neptune 4 Max. I switched to a different roll of filament and it sort of helped but now I’m testing PrusaSlicer instead of Cura to see if maybe it’s my slicing software or settings. Orca has a profile for the Neptune 4 Max and that software is similar to Prusa so maybe I’ll try that as well. 🤔
A friend just told me that normally separation only happens if your print is not hot enough or cools down too fast. I print in my garage and I’ve been printing around 200 so I might bump it up to 215 or 220 and see how my prints look.
@@Extreme4x4Dudethank you so much for the answer! I’m trying right now, I have also imported a file from an Anycubic, maybe is this also part of the problem🙏🏻
@@Visionbygtif the file is an STL you sliced using Neptune profile it should be fine. If it’s a file sliced for an Anycubic it could cause errors only because different machines tend to have slightly different gcode. That being said I have done it myself with little to no problems. It’s just safer to stick to the gcode designed for your printer.
@@Extreme4x4Dude yea for sure safer, I’m running a small 3d printing farm for a racing team and I have 4 anycubic and now the Neptune 4… I wished that I could use the same gcode to save some time…
good god look at those print lines and overall quality..... Neptune 3 seems to be 2x better.
I can see that you have another problem especially at the top, look at the layers, that are not well aligned, that middle layer shift is definitely the worst. It is less pronounced in my case, but I have installed XYZ rail kits that mitigated a problem a little bit.
Rails for Neptune 4?
@@diegoalvarez8925 Google upgrade rail kit ELEGOO
I was just talking to a linear rail kit manufacturer. 😉👍
@@Extreme4x4Dude apparently with this kit I have a heavy z banding… can’t figure out where it is coming from.
@@boulderdash555have you greased the z rods or cleaned them?
Hi, where buy is nozzle for him?
Elegoo said Amazon would have them sometime this month.
@@Extreme4x4Dude aliexpress may be?
@@user-ji5mp2zy3cnot for the Neptune 4 Max unfortunately.
Why you remove the fan?
It didn’t really help anything so I took it off.
@@Extreme4x4Dude hmm 🤔 I didn’t notice … do think the fan causes problems in printing ?
@@PeterAgostiniJdcap26honestly I’m not sure. I just didn’t notice any benefits to it having it. My filament prints good up to 250mms and when I try to print faster the print looks bad. Maybe if I used fast/hyper filament it would be useful and the prints would look better? 🤷♂️
fix the homing issues without messing with firmware: czcams.com/video/aZOgE5m1ruQ/video.html
Kinda feel like a printer shouldn't need to much TLC. If a idk, leaf blower or table saw, needed this much attention to keep it working, you'd return it. 100 extra dollars can get you a Bambu. Smaller, granted. But nowhere near as much fussing around.
I agree with you 100%. In fact I’m working on a comparison video between the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max and the Anycubic Kobra 2 Max. One of them requires a lot less maintenance.
@@Extreme4x4DudeSounds like a cool video, I'll have to keep an eye out for it. I just set up my Kobra 2 Pro (replacing old monoprice) last night. Clicked through the setup, waited for it to calibrate itself, and it's done 6 prints now just fine. Nice to have it "just work"
@saramae9878 Bambu isn't an XL printer though so it's not really an alternative option (yet)
Neptune 4 is 270 euro in india and bamboo p1p is 900 euro
So when a medium cost leaf blower can blow leafs within a .02 mm tolerance then I’ll accept that argument.
ppl foreget that this ar CNC.s and do need to cheak on them
What is CNC