#Shelly
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
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Similar on the surface, different on the inside - find out what's best for you:
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Shelly 2.5 review: notenoughtech....
Sonoff DualR3 review: notenoughtech....
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The Sonoff Dual is huge! People already struggle to place the Shelly 2.5 behind their switches. Looks impossible with the Sonoff.
I really like the Shelly, because you can set them up without a cloud connection and without using the app. The Sonoff is a cloud-only device unless you flash it with Tasmota.
I do agree with size issue but also with extra connectors Shelly 2.5 had been a tight fit as well.
Have to agree. Already using a Sonoff mini which is already a tight fit. Going to try a Shelly 2.5. thnx for this video @NotEnoughTech
I have replaced all the back boxes in my house with the larger 50mm ones so adding Sonoff Mini was much easier but with the existing 35mm boxes, they were a nightmare to fit in so I made my life easier. I now have loads of spare 35mm back boxes if anyone needs any??
Haha I know your pain. One room has a structure wall and very shallow box inside so I'm struggling to do it. And re drilling this into a stone wall is a nightmare. Now I know why they made it shallow 🤣😂🤣
The shelly runs hot..even with no power going through it.
Sonoff is half the price. Like you said..but this is significant
The sonoff dual r3 can actually be integrated with HA and controlled locally without flashing it. There is a third party integration called SonoffLAN for that.
There is also a node for eWeLink as well: notenoughtech.com/home-automation/ewelink-api-in-nodered/
Big fan of Shelly and I got lot of their products but...2 out of 2 Shelly2.5 started to do loud hissing noises, just after 2 years under light load. It seems a common problem as reported by others is that they run hot and the cap dries out (Shelly used cheap parts particularly in the Shell2.5 - might be one of the reasons why it's no longer sold). Shelly were double the cost of the competition and I thought I am buying a quality product but 2 out of 2 failing almost same time right after the warranty expired...not sure I can trust Shelly at this failure rate, I will try other alternatives to compare.
It's a shame to hear this - if this is a known issue (I gotta say I hear this 1st time) - could be worth reaching out to Shelly about it? This is where you usually find out how much they care about the brand image,
Hi and thanks for sharing this. Did you try another brand ?
@@notenoughtech Shelly support was great and quick to reply, the PM2.5 is no longer sold, so they gave me 50% off on a new Shelly, fine by me.
Also, I have read that Shelly advises to use what they calle Snubber RC to protect the modules. Did you use those ?
@@theattorney6072 Sure, I also have several Sonoff D3 Minis, they are bulky but they work fine since years. Anyway, I'm going to stick to Shelly for now, as have many other Shellys in my house.
The ESP32 with bluetooth inside might be a good idea - having itag behind the wall would enable in-room positioning without additional ESP32s around :)
I'd love to do a node thet does it all :)
@@notenoughtech Just install the tasmota32-bluetooth edition - it has the BLE enabled, additional setting to enable beacons, works as BLE2MQTT bridge, ... The switches and relays are then just the cherry on top of the cake :)
Oh I was thinking about a node that also does lots of sensors :)
How do each of these perform behind an in-wall UK light switch - given in many UK properties the in-wall switch mount knockout box is metal? Is this something you have tested? (Concerned it would impair the wireless signal)
I have 2 sonoffs mounted and these seems ok. The biggest issue would be orientation of the box Vs router placement.
In both my cases it's a ceiling rose as these need L and N cables to work which isn't usually present in the UK wall switch
Thank you sir.
I use the shelly 2.5 fas solar monitor. It gets awfully hot. Bettter get two shelly pm1.
Did order a sonoff now. If that gets hot i can desolder the relays, dont use them anyway.
Check the gauge of the wires on both ends especially if you are running shelly at close to the current rating. Hot is also very relative term. Most electronics is totally fine with 50-65C which becomes unpleasant on touch very quickly.
@@notenoughtech No its not the cable. There are 300W running over each channel, not enough to heat the 1.5mm cables. Its the micro relays inside the shelly getting hot in continuous ON state. This 2.5 problem is well known.
I am using 2 Shelly 1PM plus to monitor 2 x 300W Solar panels and they report way to high power values. Shelly is aware of the issue an explain there was a missing calibration mistake. Next week I will try the Sonoff Dual R3
@@PeterObermeier I'm sorry.
I am curious how do you measure solar...
Have re-done the measurements and this time I have compared my Shelly 1PM plus with the Hoymiles HM600 power value via Ahoy DTU and found that my Shelly is 2% lower. Meanwhile I am happy and do not take it too seriously 😂
Tasmota could be used on Shelly 2.5 also.
Indeed but I think you are pretty much getting the same info and freedom with their stock firmware
@@notenoughtech while that is true, I strongly believe in having full control and ownership on Iot devices, making them future proof and completely independent from third parties (shelly still connects to the internet on it's own).
@@soyeltiolucas in the rest and mqtt mode the device doesn't talk back
Can i use it to switch between mains supply and solar supply as output ?
I think this would be way to much Current for those.
Is there any chance to find a free GPIO on the Sonoff? Any schematic?
I would like to add some sensors DS18B20 after flashing with tasmota.
Shelly is too expensive. I already bought EM version with CT with dedicated use for entire Home energy measurement.
You could use RXTX for this. They are only used for flashing - in the normal operation, you can assign another purpose.
@@notenoughtech thanks.
I did't think about it.
Another very informative video...thanks. I have a Sonoff miniR2 and want to wire it to a 2 gang switch but it doesnt come with neutral is there a way this can be down?
regards
Unfortunately this one needs L and N but you can fit this in the ceiling.
notenoughtech.com/featured/using-smart-light-switches/
See this
THANKS..........what I love about you is you think outside the box. So if I wire it across one light will it work for the other lights?
@@newby2224 could you explain the question a bit. Font want do give you incorrect info
@@notenoughtech ok I can get into the ceiling where 1 light is and wire the miniR2 to that light. But there are 3 lights in the ceiling...So I assume this would be wiring in series?? if I wired the sonoff across 1 light would this still control the other 2 lights?
Thanks
@@newby2224 yes you would need to group the wires and run it via the same relay. Just do check the current draw it's unlikely you will hit the limit with LEDs but be careful
Shelly 2.5 for me. I like the options without flashing Tasmota even though I'm capable of doing that.
That's a fair take
Every single Shelly device I have installed has failed within 2 years, whereas I have Sonoff devices that have been working more than 5 years, Sonoff every time for me now
You try to compare both, but you don't compare the precision
Precision in the reported voltage? Values are very similar on both units. As the reading can fluctuate slightly it's hard to define which one is more accurate. I have not noticed anything that would cause the concern on either the unit
U DA MAN !!!!!!
and you da angry bird!
Shelly relay best.
Nooo! Never put two wires under one screw: ask any sparky!
I did say "may get away". 🤭🤭 But you are right. One terminal one screw is the safest way
I am a sparky and 99% of accessories in a house have two cores into one terminal screw (uk)
I have seen it all in the UK. But I lived in some old houses with a bit dodgy installation as well haha - I feel your pain as half of the time it's hard to figure out the custom jobs 🤣🤣