Doing a complete engine rebuild. New case bearings and a new 05‐07 crank, new cylinder and piston on my 2003 CR250R. Definitely going to do a leak down and compression test when completed
Thanks buddy! Sorry to hear, I’m actually lucky considering the snot kicking the aviation industry is taking. We’ve been just reduced hours (50%) for a couple weeks. See how long it lasts but I have a feeling we’ll have to stop soon as bookings have almost dried up completely. Stay safe!
Thanks man! You notice a difference? I don’t usually ride trails, but even then I have never had overheating issues buying premixed 50/50 automotive water.
@@turdpike i mean aside from getting stuck in a mudhole and throttling the piss out of it for too long, i usually noticed it towards the end of long rides when you've been dumping heat for an hour or three. bike seems to stay closer to as peppy as it starts the ride now. but then again for like a $10 difference it won't ruin your ride if you're not pinning it everywhere
@@georgewarshington1230 90% of what I ride is deep sand tracks where besides your mudhole scenario I would think the bike gets as hot as it ever will each time. Quite hard on it. Haven’t boiled yet there either. You have an aftermarket water temp indicating system on your bikes to know for certain if it makes a difference? I’m genuinely curious as I know this topic has been beat to death of forums- but besides just increasing the boiling point I can’t see how they make any difference besides costing more
@@turdpike it's purely antidotal. the newest bike i own is a 2005 electronics are out of my timeline lol although that makes me wonder if newer motors or older motors do better/worse/the same. getting a few different generations of bikes, a dyno, and two different coolants would make for some awesome content, and solve alot of debates. hell yeah. i'd watch a 60 minute video on that. dirt bike myth busters.
@@turdpike although i don't know how you'd account for additives and protective junk the different coolants put in over time. i suppose that could be a factor between the two, but how you'd ever get two identicalish dirt bikes, to last the same amount of hours, and experience similar conditions is beyond me. sometimes a bearing just goes. gonna have to blow up project farm's inbox.
Ive notice in my bike, when i change the oil and loosen the oil drain plug, the kickstart is easier to kick, does that means i have leak seal on the crankcase?
Seems weird but possibly. Check the vent hose from the RH outer case cover when kicking the bike. If it’s hissing/blows bubbles when kicking then yes. Or build yourself a leakdown tester and do it this way
Was just at a local department hardware store. Had to do some stepping down a few sizes with the pvc pieces, then ended with a pipe threaded pvc end cap. Hope this makes sense
Would an air leak at the crank or reed cage cause the bike to be extremely hard to start? Bike will fire up and run with a tiny spray of ether, but can’t start it by kick to save my life. Compression test shows 155, brand new jdjetting carb and still won’t fire on its own. Swapped coil/stator/cdi as well, but haven’t gotten to the leak down test yet.
Think I saw your note about this on CR’s only. Tough to say- honestly you’re so deep in it at this point it would not hurt to cover all your bases. Which would involve a leak down. How do your reeds look? Have you taken them off to see where they rest? Shouldn’t see any light through them at rest. It’s almost like the normal charge is escaping somewhere, hence why extra ether will get it to light
@@turdpike that’s exactly what I’m thinking, gathering stuff for leak down test tonight. Reeds look excellent, laying perfectly flat no cracks or anything. But yeah that’s me on cr only..bike is kickin my ass lol..the one we’re working on now is bro in laws project bike, I’ve got a twin to it that’s next on the list, doing full topend on mine once we get his running.
So you have the identical bike yourself? If so that’d be excellent to help troubleshoot. Swap the weird stuff like CDI and carb again just for shits. Seems like a head scratcher. Lemme know what you find with your leakdown
@@turdpike yes sir I’ve got the same bike, we bought them both within a week of each other and both were in rough shape, trying to get them both going and do a little riding. I was swapping all kinds of things last night, cdi, coil, stator/harness, trying to figure it out. Not able to get out in the shop tonight, hopefully will be able to tomorrow to try that leakdown and get the fresh top end put on mine and see if she will breathe some fire!
@@turdpike what was ur bike doing I have a cr125 and I have a low end bog I can’t get rid of and I think it could be crank seals I don’t want to sell the bike but I do t want to do crank seals I already did a top end
@@Vicscarm1 mine wasn’t doing anything bad, I filmed this after I completely rebuilt the engine. I was just double checking my work. A leak down test like this will find bad crank seals though
I have 1995 CR250r and I’m getting ready to tear it down. Glad I found this video for reassembly of the power valve linkage!!
Got to replace my crank seals on my cr 250 89' model...I'll try this tip. Thanks bro.
Super informative and love that you did it without specialty tools. Also killer name, Mr. Turdpike.
Doing a complete engine rebuild. New case bearings and a new 05‐07 crank, new cylinder and piston on my 2003 CR250R. Definitely going to do a leak down and compression test when completed
Awesome man, this is the exact bike that I have that Im trying to diagnose. Thank you. Could you do a how-to video for building your leak down tester?
Glad you liked it- I sure can someday soon, you’re not the only one who has asked me!
Good video mate
Great info
Good video. How have you been dealing with this Covid-19? I work at a GM dealership. I’ve been laid off for 3 weeks now.
Thanks buddy! Sorry to hear, I’m actually lucky considering the snot kicking the aviation industry is taking. We’ve been just reduced hours (50%) for a couple weeks. See how long it lasts but I have a feeling we’ll have to stop soon as bookings have almost dried up completely. Stay safe!
love your videos. just used the yz clutch change one. but oof that green coolant. that's always alarming on a bike that sees trail use
Thanks man!
You notice a difference? I don’t usually ride trails, but even then I have never had overheating issues buying premixed 50/50 automotive water.
@@turdpike i mean aside from getting stuck in a mudhole and throttling the piss out of it for too long, i usually noticed it towards the end of long rides when you've been dumping heat for an hour or three. bike seems to stay closer to as peppy as it starts the ride now. but then again for like a $10 difference it won't ruin your ride if you're not pinning it everywhere
@@georgewarshington1230 90% of what I ride is deep sand tracks where besides your mudhole scenario I would think the bike gets as hot as it ever will each time.
Quite hard on it. Haven’t boiled yet there either.
You have an aftermarket water temp indicating system on your bikes to know for certain if it makes a difference? I’m genuinely curious as I know this topic has been beat to death of forums- but besides just increasing the boiling point I can’t see how they make any difference besides costing more
@@turdpike it's purely antidotal. the newest bike i own is a 2005 electronics are out of my timeline lol although that makes me wonder if newer motors or older motors do better/worse/the same. getting a few different generations of bikes, a dyno, and two different coolants would make for some awesome content, and solve alot of debates. hell yeah. i'd watch a 60 minute video on that. dirt bike myth busters.
@@turdpike although i don't know how you'd account for additives and protective junk the different coolants put in over time. i suppose that could be a factor between the two, but how you'd ever get two identicalish dirt bikes, to last the same amount of hours, and experience similar conditions is beyond me. sometimes a bearing just goes. gonna have to blow up project farm's inbox.
I know you said this should work for pretty much any model but does that include an ‘02? That’s what my bike is
6 or 9% chance yes? Maybe?? Sure, yes. It will.
Ive notice in my bike, when i change the oil and loosen the oil drain plug, the kickstart is easier to kick, does that means i have leak seal on the crankcase?
Seems weird but possibly. Check the vent hose from the RH outer case cover when kicking the bike. If it’s hissing/blows bubbles when kicking then yes. Or build yourself a leakdown tester and do it this way
Wow I wish I could give this tutorial 6-9 likes instead of just 1!
Where did you get the pvc pipe going into the reed valves. Can’t seem to find a 90 degree pvc pipe with threads for the air compressor.
Was just at a local department hardware store. Had to do some stepping down a few sizes with the pvc pieces, then ended with a pipe threaded pvc end cap. Hope this makes sense
Did you make the threads yourself on the end cap of the pipe?
@@fredyorellana4368 nope, it’s a cap sold like that, but you could cut your own threads easily if you can’t find one
@@fredyorellana4368 if you pause the video at 5:51 you can see how I did it
Would an air leak at the crank or reed cage cause the bike to be extremely hard to start? Bike will fire up and run with a tiny spray of ether, but can’t start it by kick to save my life. Compression test shows 155, brand new jdjetting carb and still won’t fire on its own. Swapped coil/stator/cdi as well, but haven’t gotten to the leak down test yet.
Think I saw your note about this on CR’s only. Tough to say- honestly you’re so deep in it at this point it would not hurt to cover all your bases. Which would involve a leak down. How do your reeds look? Have you taken them off to see where they rest? Shouldn’t see any light through them at rest. It’s almost like the normal charge is escaping somewhere, hence why extra ether will get it to light
@@turdpike that’s exactly what I’m thinking, gathering stuff for leak down test tonight. Reeds look excellent, laying perfectly flat no cracks or anything. But yeah that’s me on cr only..bike is kickin my ass lol..the one we’re working on now is bro in laws project bike, I’ve got a twin to it that’s next on the list, doing full topend on mine once we get his running.
So you have the identical bike yourself? If so that’d be excellent to help troubleshoot. Swap the weird stuff like CDI and carb again just for shits. Seems like a head scratcher. Lemme know what you find with your leakdown
@@turdpike yes sir I’ve got the same bike, we bought them both within a week of each other and both were in rough shape, trying to get them both going and do a little riding. I was swapping all kinds of things last night, cdi, coil, stator/harness, trying to figure it out. Not able to get out in the shop tonight, hopefully will be able to tomorrow to try that leakdown and get the fresh top end put on mine and see if she will breathe some fire!
@Nathan hey I have the exact problem, you find out the issue yet?
Would a leak cause my bike to rev up at idle.
Absolutely will yes
@@turdpike awesome, thank you. Would bad reeds cause the same symptom?
Not really no, when reeds go bad they typically make the bike harder to start and also will loose performance basically everywhere
Piston at tdc?
Doesn’t matter where it is in the stroke. The whole cylinder will get filled with the same pressure. A piston and rings aren’t air tight
Whats normal compression for these bikes??
Don’t quote me on it as I’m not 100% sure but I’d guess 120-200 psi.
@@turdpike what was ur bike doing I have a cr125 and I have a low end bog I can’t get rid of and I think it could be crank seals I don’t want to sell the bike but I do t want to do crank seals I already did a top end
@@Vicscarm1 mine wasn’t doing anything bad, I filmed this after I completely rebuilt the engine. I was just double checking my work. A leak down test like this will find bad crank seals though
@@turdpike I have a bog really low in the rpms if I go wide open too quick I replaced reed pedals and it helped a bunch what do u think it could be
@@turdpike no amount of jetting. Will help it either
2 strokes don’t have crank case vents! That’s a gearbox vent!
Correct, I misspoke