Outlet Relocation Made Simple | Adding Power Where You Want It
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- čas přidán 19. 11. 2023
- WAGO 221 (90 Piece Kit) - amzlink.to/az0eBpCFKyJJK
Legrand Old Work Box - amzlink.to/az09yCvTykTk2
Legrand Commercial Grade Outlet - amzlink.to/az08luQeUTDU6
All My Favorite DIY Electrical Tools - amzlink.to/az0fGo9mGJ3Em
I will walk you through the easiest way to add a new outlet location to a bedroom, livingroom, hallway, or anywhere else you have an existing outlet on the other side of the wall. We will make this project straightforward forward where you do not need to go down in a basement/crawlspace or even up in an attic. I will include a few tips that will make this project easy and result in a quality finished product.
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Jak na to + styl
The no-basement, no-attic constraint was very considerate of you. You're absolutely right about broad applicability. Thank you.
You bet!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Most homes in Florida do not have a basement so this approach is awesome to see!
Thanks this is great! I have always appreciated your DYI videos. I replaced my garbage disposal on my own by finding one of your videos.
Thanks for the continued support 🙌
Your video`s are very detailed on how-to Thank you
Thank you so much for this video!
You bet!
Thanks for the great video.
Did the same thing just recently, my wife loves having extra outlets.
Amazing Work
Thanks!
Great video 👍🏻
Thanks!
Nice informative
Thanks!
Nice but remember there are some areas it’s against code to pull off of like kitchens and bathrooms and laundry rooms to feed another rooms
Yeah, good point. Would have been a good add to keep an eye out for dedicated circuits.
@@phillipbanes5484 That sentiment is why peoples' homes catch fire. Code is there for safety, and cutting corners with electricity is like playing Russian roulette with lightning. The last thing you want to do is take shortcuts, or do something stupid like burying an open splice behind drywall.
Code 😂😂😂😂.
Here’s a fun one, a receptacle that’s within 6 feet of a bathroom now has to be gfci protected. You can debate the specifics of it. Thanks 2023 code cycle. We also don’t put receptacles on the side of islands anymore.
@@phillipbanes5484 I have to respectfully disagree on _part_ of that. That's how I end up with a 60s house where electrical circuits are a mess, often cross-linked between totally non-sensical locations. I see where you're getting at, but blanket statements like this are just blind to reality -- there are multiple reasons, and the "blame it all on the government" attitude is as blind as the naïve "trust the government".
Good video. I'm surprised the old heads didn't criticize you for using Wagos. I'm wondering if they're fading away or no longer care lol. I have a long hallway that doesn't have an outlet and was looking to add one. This definitely helps. Thank you
WAGO 221 (90 Piece Kit) - amzlink.to/az0eBpCFKyJJK
Legrand Old Work Box - amzlink.to/az09yCvTykTk2
Legrand Commercial Grade Outlet - amzlink.to/az08luQeUTDU6
All My Favorite DIY Electrical Tools - amzlink.to/az0fGo9mGJ3Em
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Where conduit is used with metal boxes, those boxes may be shallow enough to allow back-to-back placement of the second box and receptacle on the opposite wall, connected with a short pipe nipple or conduit joiner. I have done that. The second box will, of course, have to be mechanically secured additional to the pass-through connection and that will depend on how the original was mounted.
Video idea: How about a video where you extend the outlet up and over several studs without attic or basement access (electrical outlet near ceiling for high-mount TV or electrical sign)
Do you have video to run coax from attic installed antenna to no electrical old work box? 🤔
I see the LeGrand Old Work Box is also better for its metal locking tabs. I had never noticed metal locking tabs at Lowe's, so they must not carry LeGrand. I normally like to shop CZcamsrs' links, but since I won't know when I need these in advance, I'll see if The Home Deport has these and LeGrand Commercial outlets. We also have what used to be called Southerlands and others not as large.
I've done this same thing with light switches. A dining room switch was on the living room side of the wall doorway (the doorway was 2-doors wide and was open - no doors). I moved it to the other side by cutting the hole an old work box, ran 3-way switch wiring in the attic, added a red conductor to the light switch by the front door, and installed 3-way light switches on both sides of the living room. The house was built in the '50s, back when 2x4s were closer to 2" x 4", so the switch boxes fit back to back. The work was not strictly to code, but I did use a junction box for connections in the attic. I was renting, but wanted the convenience. The house has the old asbestos 120VAC wiring.
Menards has them.
I just did something similar but installing the new outlet high on wall for some self contained speakers. I used Wago’s BTW because of your vids!
The big issues were (hint for a another vid) breaking out the back tabs on the existing new work box AND since the wall had insulation fishing the romex.
Thus, I faced removing new world box requires cutting the nails or cutting an extra hole to patch at the end. The Mag-pull magnet is too large for tab opening. Getting a rod down between the wall and insulation and then thru the back knockout is again no easy task. Maybe you have a tricks for all this?
If you have any say, they should sell a 2 wire alone box which seem to be my biggest project need.
Awesome video, sir! The only thing I would have done different would be using a Southwire hybrid box because since it's an outlet it will be subject to repeated force when plugging-in/unplugging devices. I totally understand using the old work box you used though. Especially with the metal flanges instead of the plastic ones. Those Carlon plastic flanges LOVE to bind, and when they do they create enough pressure to unseat the screws, which causes them to fail to tighten. They also tend to break off.
That outlet hole you cut in the drywall was cleeeeean as a whistle! I have a few of those I have to clean up from the previous owners' installs.
What is the Southwire hybrid box? Thanks.
@@ngarber Southwire is the brand. It's a gang box that has two angled screws inside the box itself so it can be screwed into a stud. It's designed to have the ease of use, and versatility of an old work box, and has the structural strength of a new work box.
What Scott is using in this video is an old work box that fixes to the drywall itself. It will only ever be as strong as the drywall it's attached to. With a hybrid, or "smart" box you can attach it to a stud like new work boxes, and give it the strength of being attached to the stud itself.
The real benefit to it is when you're replacing an existing gang box but don't want to cut a new hole in the drywall. You would remove the original new work box, and replace it with a smart box. I used one to combine two separate light switch gang boxes into one 3-gang box.
Just go on Amazon and type in Southwire smart box, and you should get some hits on it.
@@demontekdigital1704 Ah, thanks. I know them as "smart" boxes and have used them in my house. There's no more fun than breaking out old Bakelite boxes with those massive brackets and replacing them with the smart box.
@@ngarber Right? Mine are a weird plastic brown kind. All I did was hacksaw the nails, but left enough to remove from the stud. Pulled them, and prepped for the smart box. I love those thing so much I want to replace all my originals with them, lol.
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Looks like that section of wall is a return air cavity . Shouldn't outlets / wires be kept out of furnace return air wall cavities?
Yeah I should have mentioned the cold air return is blocked off ending at the top of the cover and just dropping into the basement.
Recommendation to update label on service panel regarding new receptacle. I also write circuit # on inside of receptacle cover.
I like it, that would help to have the circuit number for future reference. Thanks for the feedback.
So is it acceptable to have two wires in one back wire screw terminal? I couldn’t find any info for or against doing it according to code. I have had a few installs where I would have liked to do that instead of a pigtail. I went pigtail as I wasn’t sure if it was a code violation.
So what do you do if the light switch has no neutral and no ground line? The switch box is too small for a smart switch. Year built 1940. Oh can't use a smart bulb as the owner changes the kitchen light to LEDs.
Metal box would have been better. 12 gauge is good. I ordered some Wago nuts from you a few times, just to have extras around and get rid of all the twist nuts I find. I shouldn't have to say it but I feel I must, is to be careful when drilling from the top down towards the basement that you don't hit a water line, or worse, gas line or another electrical connection. Learned that a LONG time ago, but saved by not having a bit long enough, like I tried to use in the first place, and was a hair away from penetrating a gas line. So that was dumb luck. Great video.
Do you have to worry about adding another outlet to a circuit? Is there a max number of outlets permitted on a 15amp circuit? I am thinking about doing this to get 2 outlets in my hallway as i have none.
Code at least 2017 NEC doesn't specify the number of outlets on a branch circuit. It's good practice to use 2 amp per receptacle when laying out new homes; so 15 amp go with 7 receptacle 20 amp go with 10. Please note that lights may be on the same circuit as receptacle and may cause flickering to led when using heavy load/ too many receptacle drawing amps. Hallways depending on the length are required to have receptacle per code; best of luck!
Assuming the existing outlet was wired with 14 gauge, is the 12 gauge required when adding new receptacles or just recommended?
Not required. That's probably just what he had on hand.
Is that 20 amp outlet. It doesn’t look like it
Funny enought I tried something quite close today and I'm stuck. I was trying to run ethernet wire (does not really matter but I like precision). The problem I ran into is that the cable is coming from the bottom (not basement, just another level) and there is a stud in the middle of the wall cavity so I can't run the wire straight down. I'm kinda frustrated at this, because I don't really have access to that stud (my outlet holes is a bit too high, like your outlet one) and I have 3 foot wall till where I can access under so basically, it's either 15inc from top (outlet hole) or 3 feet from bottom into a wall.
There must be an answer, probably to remove the trim and drill a hole from the back of the trim but it looks painfull to do whereas I was planning something quick and easy...
Definitely a tough spot. I’d recommend attempting to use one of the long flexible bits from Klein or do what I have to get across multiple stud bays behind dry wall.
Stick a 7/8” self feeding spade bit on a 6” extension and put into the wall then keep adding extensions until you hit the stud. Use a right angle drill adapter to drill through the stud. Carefully retract everything back out. Use a fish tape to find the hole and pull shrugging through. Can be a bit painful but I’ve had repeat successes with that process.
Best of luck!
@@EngineersPerspective701 lol, thank you. The funniest part is that i bought exactly (right angle excepted, i intended to remove the trim) this 2h ago to try doing it. I didn't though to buy extension and right angle though, so i'll keep that in mind for the next time. That's some gold advice right here. Thank you again.
I thought there was a code issue regarding adding a box on the other side of a wall in the same stud cavity? Might have been a fire issue. 12:10
Nice video and well done explaining everything but for one issue...why did you want/need another outlet just around the corner?
This exact location was bit more for the of benefit of the viewer having everything easily visible instead of me jumping back and forth to different rooms. The additional outlet I installed doesn’t have a ton of benefit.
😕 I am sure I missed it within your videos … I would like to know if I can change a 4-plug outlet into a 2-plug + USB ports outlet❓ I am tired of all the 📱 cell phone chargers 🔌 or whatever device cords hanging. Is this possible??
Sounds like you have 2 duplex outlets in a 2 gange box. You could easily change out 1 of those for an outlet with integrated USB-A and/or USB-C. I like the new USB-C if your phones and tablets are compatible because the charging rate is faster and that is where most devices are going.
What if you have the old metal work boxes? My house wasn’t built with the plastic.
There should be a way to add a wire. If not, you could pull the metal box out and replace with an "old work" plastic box. It's not easy, but if you're careful you can get the metal box out without damaging the drywall.
Surprised there aren't electricians commenting on the mixup of outlet and receptacle. Every electrician I've used has always corrected me that what we call an "outlet" is actually called a receptacle.
One thing puzzles me about these walls-on projects: If the Romex is to go any distance, the code calls for staples or other fasteners at intervals, which will definitely not be possible. I would like to run a neutral wire to a switch box from the ceiling by replacing the Romex to the box, but have hesitated because I'd have no way to secure it as specified by code. Comments?
Not a pro, but I'm pretty sure the code allows for circumstances where you run wiring and stapling is not feasible.
Found it: 2020 NEC 334.30(B). You can run a new cable unsupported if securing it is impracticable.
@@ngarber Aha. Most excellent information. Thanks so much. I'm there now.
What about the duck.
taste like chicken. 😊
The Duct actually just goes down and is blocked off at the top of the vent cover So in this case the Romex is not in a cold air return since it is above the duct work.
You might have emphasized that when extending a 12-gauge (yellow Romex) circuit, you MUST use 12-gauge wire.
Using 14-gauge (white Romex) would violate code.
Also, why not put in a commercial 20A outlet. It would remind users which outlets are fed from a 20A breaker. (Leviton CR020 Commercial Outlet $2.77)
Because 99.44% of people have NO idea why some receptacles have a straight vs T shaped neutral and some don't.
In this case just matching the rest of the house. Also, specifically for Legrand I haven’t found much different internally between their commercial grade 15A and 20A outlets.
@@JCWren Then this would be a perfect opportunity for Scott to explain it, which is what this channel is all about.
But...now you have 2 rooms on one circuit. Plus, haven't you created the potential to overload the existing circuit, especially if it's a 15 amp? Isn't there a limit to how many outlets you can have on one circuit?
Technically no limit to the number of outlets on a single circuit according to code. Local codes may differ.
He’s using 12 gauge to wire so presumably it’s not a 15A circuit, it’s a 20A circuit. You’re allowed to have multiple 15A outlets on a 20A circuit as long as the “expected load” does not exceed 80% of the circuit’s rating (16A). In practice old homes were often wired with almost the whole house on a handful of circuits.
@@Sam-ey1nn I think the 80% rule only applies to continuous loads (> 3 hours per day), like electric heating or EV chargers. Rarely would such a load be plugged into a convenience outlet. The Code does not expect typical users to calculate total loads, so applying such a requirement would not make sense.
A single duplex outlet has the potential to overload the circuit; you could plug in a space heater and a vacuum cleaner. It's also possible to have, say, 50 LED lamps plugged into one circuit and not overload it. It depends on what the loads actually are.
@@Sam-ey1nn Like my house from 1938. I have had to split out those old circuits because of the increasing loads. Things were different in 1938.