Power Pickups For Your Cabooses and Passenger Cars (102)
Vložit
- čas přidán 20. 06. 2020
- In order to light up your cabooses and passenger cars, you have to have some way to pick up power from the rails and conduct it to the inside of the car itself. in this video I'll show you how I installed my DCC stay alive lighting circuit inside a caboose and provided power pickup. I'll also show you a way to make your own pickups and give you some tips on how to make others.
HEADS UP!!! I checked eBay for metal sheet and got lucky. There was one seller with 0.005” thick phosphor bronze sheet so I ordered one for $13 including shipping. His is a limited supply. There is a lot of stainless steel sheet in all kinds of sizes and thickness and I stopped at 1 page so there could be a seller with small quantities in just the right sizes. As a point of reference the stainless steel pickups I used in this video were 0.005” thick so something within a mil of that should be good. I also checked with K&S Precision Metals and they do not have properly sized sheet. Their music wire is available in diameters down to 0.015” which would be almost half the diameter I demonstrated and a good size. I am still waiting to hear back from Streamlined Backshop about his pickups and will post that info as soon as I hear from him.
OK, I heard back from Streamlined Backshop and basically, although he hasn’t discontinued them, don’t expect to see them anytime soon. - Jak na to + styl
Another great video, Larry! When I replaced the decoder in my Bachmann "DCC on Board" 0-6-0, I also added pickups to both tender trucks (short Vanderbilt tender). I used InterMountain metal wheel-sets, which have an insulating ring between one wheel and the metal axle. For the pickups I used some 1/8" diameter copper tube, K&S #8120, and cut 4 1/4" lengths of it, one for each axle. I soldered some small diameter flexible wire to each length of copper tube, removed one wheel from each wheel-set, slid the tube over the axle, and re-installed the wheel. I have one axle providing power from each rail, on each truck, so a "positive and negative" on each truck. I did it this way because this is short wheel based locomotive, no room for a Keep Alive, and I didn't want it to stall over dead frogs. I've had no problems with it at all. A small hole allowed for routing the wires into the tender. The inner diameter of the copper tube is perfect for the axles, but small enough so the tubing cannot slip over the wheel insulator and cause a short. The wires also help keep the tubing centered on the axle. Just another possibility for adding pickups.
OUTSTANDING video! Love the 'recycling' and creative use of the KD centering spring!
Great video Larry, learned a lot on installing this into a caboose. I like the idea of the frosting film for the windows, hides the electronics quite nice. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
I got my ESU current collectors from Litchfield Station. I have made my own wheel pickups from old copper I salvaged from an old computer. Never throw anything away if you think it could be used later. Cheers from eastern TN
Another clever solution Larry!! 💯👍👍
For "Cabeese"(FWIW, I'm pretty sure I came up with that about 20 years ago. SOMETHING I'll go down in history for!! 😜), I've gone the more expensive route... Athearn Genesis Caboose Trucks.
They have + and - pickups wired into each Truck, and well, they LOOK really good too!
But I'm keeping this in mind, as these days I can barely afford Model Railroading. 😭
Also, it's a great solution for Passenger Cars, where ready made pickups are just not available anymore for most of them...
I'm really going to like this Channel. It may even get me to wipe off the cobwebs on my HO Scale Pacific Belt RR!! 😁
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
I recently saw somewhere that Kadee also has trucks with pickups, so if you have deep pockets there are a couple options.
LOL 😆 Not that deep anymore....
I do like this idea! Phosphor Bronze is readily available by me, and by your plan, I could basically make it fit any Trucks.
..... I really like the looks of the Genesis Trucks. But $20 per pair adds up pretty quickly!! 😲 So far I've only got them on my highly detailed Walthers Cabeese.
Not sure I could justify them on a $5.00 (when I bought them) Blue Box Caboose.
Thanks Larry!
Thank u. Great helpful video.
That was really cool 😎😎😎😎
Larry, Iv'e been using tichy trains phospher bronze wire for years, .015/ .020/.025 depending your scale, N, Ho, On30 and it's very easy to solder small wires to and is more forgiving to accept solder over steel or ss steel and brass. and also easy to bend and adjust the tension on the axles. Also double nut on your truck screw works even better so you can adjust and lock down the proper tension of your truck to body so not too loose and get body sway/wiggle going down the track or the truck too tight or too stiff to turn right and left...
First like. And first comment. Thanks Larry. I subscribed.
Thanks Peter, welcome to the family.
Great video. Do you have or plan to have a video on lighting a caboose using a decoder such as the Digitrax TL1 so the light can be turned off/on depending upon whether it is out of/in service? I've had trouble getting my TL1 to light my 3 LED strip like you use.
I’ll see what I can do. I have used one of those to turn the flow on and off in a track cleaning car, but have not used them with lights.
Larry, Excellent video, as always. Do you by any chance have the schematic for the light circuit? I run Lionel and I've been thinking of doing something like this for my larger cabooses.
No schematics, just wire it up like I showed.
Larry I received the wipers from Richmond Controls set them up on one of my Caboose looks good. I am still waiting on the Super Capacitor from Mouser will not have till april 15 or later. Is there a method that I can test my LED's with the wipers on the trucks now? Would like to make sure I have good contact Thanks
Larry,
I model in N scale and use a single strand from 20 gauge stranded wire in place of the H wipers or spring wire. Just wrap it a couple times around each axle and once around your truck mounting screw.
Do you use any kind of constant voltage circuit or just live with occasional flickering?
@@TheDCCGuy This rig was used on a gondola I set up to carry a DCC Vmeter with LED readout around my layout to check for low voltage. There is some flicker but a keep alive would defeat the purpose of the project.
HEADS UP!!! I checked eBay for metal sheet and got lucky. There was one seller with 0.005” thick phosphor bronze sheet so I ordered one for $13 including shipping. His is a limited supply. There is a lot of stainless steel sheet in all kinds of sizes and thickness and I stopped at 1 page so there could be a seller with small quantities in just the right sizes. As a point of reference the stainless steel pickups I used in this video were 0.005” thick so something within a mil of that should be good. I also checked with K&S Precision Metals and they do not have properly sized sheet. Their music wire is available in diameters down to 0.015” which would be almost half the diameter I demonstrated and a good size. I am still waiting to hear back from Streamlined Backshop about his pickups and will post that info as soon as I hear from him.
OK, I heard back from Streamlined Backshop and basically, although he hasn’t discontinued them, don’t expect to see them anytime soon.
Thanks for the update. Probably frustrating to see a How-To video featuring cool products no longer available. I've started using the old Kadee brass centering spring plates to install as pickups. A little finesse when bending the 2 tabs and off to the races.
Mr. Puckett, I thoroughly enjoy your videos. They have given me a great insight into the DCC world of model railroading. I am curious to know if you can directly wire the LED lights to the pickups on the trucks without a stay alive circuit? Is it best to use a stay alive circuit for electrical reasons? Thank you.
An LED with a 1000 or so ohm resistor will operate fine on straight DCC power. The polarity reversals happen so quickly that the LED looks to us like it is always on even though it is probably going on and off about 7000 times per second. And direction of travel won’t matter either. The stay alive circuit I showed is mainly there to prevent the flickering some folks fine annoying due to disruptions i power as the wheels roll along over dirty spots and dead spots. If that is not an issue for you they light em up.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you sir for the detailed reply. I am trying my first project.
I might have missed it, but I didn't hear you mention how one side of the trucks are insulated. Do they have plastic wheels on one side, or some kind of a sleeve between the wheel and axle?
That probably ended up in the 20 minutes I had to cut out. They just use a plastic or other nonconductive insert on the wheel to insulate it from the axle. One thing to be aware of is some actually use a plastic or other nonconductive axle which of course won’t work in this case.
Larry this is something I been looking to do also. On the trucks I see you showed using piano wire also I have plenty of .025 wire around and have three cabooses to setup. My question is do I need to make only one pickup wire for each truck? I se when you use the stainless you have both sides covered. In your video you only showed one piano wire with the hole made. Thanks Tom
Because the wire would contact both axles there could only be one pickup per truck. You could also use a KD spring wrapped around the axle of each wheelset and that would give less resistance plus if you use plastic trucks and install the insulated wheels on opposite sides you could pick up from both rails.
Nice video and helpful.
I have many older brass engines and I wanted to start converting them to DCC, but it's a little overwhelming where to start. I don't plan on converting all of them, (about 40 steam engines) but probably about 10 of my favorites I will convert. Any advice the best way to do this. Any advice would be helpful as sending them out to be modified will be too expensive. Thanks and again, nice video.
I have done articles in MR on converting brass locos but not a video. I’ll add that to my list since I still have at least one here that needs converting.
@@TheDCCGuy That would be great Larry. I am subscribed so I will get an alert when you post it.
I am in process of building a fairly large mountain railroad (about 350-400 feet of track) and and with many scratch-built bridges. I am still old school, so I will have to buy a DCC system (not sure which to buy with radio control) and I'll need to install the DCC buss wire too. Most of my layout is still open grid bench work without scenery, (except about 20 feet of mountains) so when I get to that stage the wiring should not be too bad (I hope). I'll check more of your videos in case any videos address someone just starting out with DCC. All advice always welcome. Thanks.
Philip
@@uptownphotography
If you are going to buy a DCC system today I would recommend one that supports WIFI connected devices.
Example:
Central: DR5000 from www.digikeijs.com/en/dr5000-adj-dcc-multi-bus-central.html
Central: DCS240 from www.digitrax.com/products/command-stations-boosters/
Driving handle: UWT-100 from tcsdcc.com
Driving handle 10813 - Z21 WLANMAUS from www.z21.eu/en/products/z21-multimaus
CZcams clips about Digitrax: czcams.com/video/2jtro6o5kec/video.html
and the most important thing!
Do your own research so that you get a system that suits you.
The DCC Guy: Thanks for a nice video.
I would love to change my older Rapido cars to track power
I just don’t want to risk damaging them they’re so nice
Check with Rapido and see if they offer upgrade power trucks.
Guitar string is another possible source of springy wire.
wonder if the small string on a guitar would work everybody knows a musician with broken strings laying around PS I Love great ideas
a very hard way to do lighting, compared to normal dc workings. but i guess thats just the way dcc has to work.
but in the case of just lights, why not use a battery? yes getting power from the track. but would a say aaa not work better than a cap? at least would last longer in loss of power times. more stable?as in rolling stock there is plenty of room to do things. at least in ho or larger scales.
Batteries work but mean you either need to use rechargeables and include a charging circuit or periodically take the car apart to replace the battery.
Ring Engineering Sales a set of trucks are wired if you do not want to do the work. Also Hobby Lobby cards a Good selection of K&S metals in there hobby section.
Both good tips, thanks.
Kadee also sells caboose trucks that are prewired and ready to go.
Kadee also sells caboose trucks that are prewired and ready to go.
Hey Larry! Thanks for the tips! Just a little suggestion though, you might want to try avoiding touching the track when it’s live, as there’s a high pitched buzz that can be heard in the video which is just a little distracting. But overall good video! 🙃
Yes, I noticed that when editing the videos and thought I had cut all of those out.
@@TheDCCGuy It happens XD
What kind of wheels sets do you use for your cars trying to find ones to use so I can light my cabooses and passenger cars. And are the wheel sets insulated on both wheels?
Those were Intermountain wheelsets. Only one wheel is insulated so you get power on the axle.
Can you do a video on lighting brass cabooses?
The problem with brass is the all metal construction makes it difficult to isolate the two polarities. To do that you have to be willing to do 2 things; (1) replace the metal trucks with plastic ones, and (2) drill holes in the floor and run wires up from each truck to carry the current. Assuming you are willing to do that then the process becomes just like a plastic caboose installation.
What amperage bridge rectifier resister and capacitor do you recommend?
Watch videos 101 & 120
Hey Larry Can you Please make A lightning Video for N scale Cabooses Either for inside Lightning.. or for putting Red Warning lights on a Caboose.. Thanks.. Allen D.
What are typical dimensions for the inside of an N-scale caboose? The problem with doing a constant lighting circuit is finding room for a voltage regulator and a capacitor. Making a circuit for those would require using surface mount device components which are probably too small for what most folks are willing to mess with. If you can live with occasional flicker then just try a 1000 ohm resistor on the LED with a surface mount bridge rectifier to get your DC power.
Awesome Video Larry!! Is there such thing as DCC power pick up with a USB plug?
I have no idea, what would it be used for?
It will be used to power a 5vdc usb micro camera.
I am working on a circuit that will put out constant variable DC so it could be set 5VDC, you will just have to find the USB power coupling.
Awesome!!! Thank you so much Larry and keep up the great work.
It works in DCC system?
Larry I am get short circuits on my trucks any way to test them? I took the trucks off the bottom of the car and placed them on the track an no short circuit only when on the car. Any way to know which side of the trucks are the right side?
Larry I got it now had the trucks on wrong. got the right combo now. When I add the circuit on I get no power from the tracks using richmond controls wipers. might try the spring wire next any thoughts?
is the spring wire touching both axles on the truck?
European pickups can be imported )at a cost obviously) Search for lamelles de contact universelle prises de courant
I buy a lot of “toy train” products from hobby shops in England and have never had to pay import duties. Also the shipping cost is usually less than I pay when I mail order stuff from a dealer just 60 miles away from me here and I don’t have to pay the VAT or any US sales taxes.
@Model Railroading If that capacitor is too big, if I understand correctly, I can use two separate 500MFD 16V capacitors(or even five separate 200MFD 16v) wired in parallel - is that correct ? How high can I go - could I use five 220MFD 16V caps?
ETA: one more question - if I use magnet wires to the LEDs, what gauge is acceptable? 24? 26? 30?
Yes, when wired in parallel. See this link for more details:
www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-13/series-and-parallel-capacitors/
What keeps the cap from overcharging?
The zener diode prevents them for being exposed to too high a voltage, and they charge to their rated value and not above that. You’d have to ask an EE for the underlying scientific principles.
@@TheDCCGuy that makes sense, thank you ☺️
Add a red dot to pickup side, I prefer using a wiper wire
Yep, the wiper wire is quick, cheap, and easy.
Kadee make trucks that have wipers already fitted - the HO ones are #590 Bettendorf and #593 Arch Bar. DCC Concepts make wipers that take current from the backs of the wheels: www.dccconcepts.com/product/pickup-wiper-12-pack
I wonder if tissue paper would defuse well?
Probably or you could use fine sandpaper to creat a diffused look with clear styrene, or Dullcote.
@@TheDCCGuy oh yea 😀, I like making effects, I’m not cheap, I just enjoy making everything. Be safe and thank you for your efforts.