18th Century Stays in a Day: A Mistake
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2022
- Hello everyone and welcome to a new video!
This video is a lesson on overestimating abilities (or time management, take your pick). I decided to make 18th century stays using the Scroop Pattern August Stays pattern. I had purchased this previously as I attempted stays before, but I had fussed too much with and it hadn't clicked. This time though, it absolutely did! I am very very happy with the result, as I think the pattern turned out really well with minimal fitting or alterations needed.
I used under two meters of heavy weight linen, and less than a meter of fusible buckram interfacing. I also used about six meters of linen binding, cut on the straight from the fabric itself, and some linen thread for the handsewn finishing. For the machine sewing, I used plain Gutterman All sewing thread. With hand done eyelets and other hand finishing (that can be done away with for a faster turn around), these stays took me 25 hours to complete over the spread of four days. As I mentioned, this was really intense on the body, my hands hurt from the boning, and my back hurt from everything else, so I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, haha. I wanted to push myself and to get this project done quickly, and I am glad I now have stays!
Leave me a comment below as to which 18th century project I should attempt first
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Music is from Epidemic Sound. - Jak na to + styl
Kudos for making it so fast, but I think we should normalize more "making in a week and enjoying it" than "making in a day and suffer through it" projects... we live in such a fast pace that a relaxed, calm feeling is hard to come by. Of course, this style is not prefered by any social media.
Thank you for sharing the whole process :)
That's usually how I work! But I found scheduling a particular time and having a time limit goal really motivating to stop procrastinating and not overthink small decisions that can sometimes delay me by weeks 😅 I don't think it'll be a permanent thing, as I'm much more of a slow maker haha
@@CatsCostumery idk, I think the dice might be a great anti procrastination decision maker for me. Lol.
Tbh rolling the dice is how I make some decisions that are not important enough to require deep thoughts
LOL i was so worried about your cookies when you continued to talk despite your oven beeping haha!
i think your stays turned out marvelous!
Me too! I was yelling at the screen, “GET THE COOKIES BEFORE THEY BURN!!!!!”
This made me miss an event so hard! I haven't been since Covid (obviously) but it's called The Quest for the Golden Seamstress and it is an endurance sewing competition. You dress a person from the skin out in pre 16th C clothing... in 20 hours. You have teams of up to 5 and you are provided a quiet napping area and regular snacks, but it is so much fun and so exhausting!
This sounds amazing!!! I'm assuming this fabulousness is not here in Perth Australia, lol. But is there any way to watch?
I love that the autosubtitles said "burn it, burn it all" when you said "bone it"! Such a lovely project, you've inspired me to try some for myself
I think that using a 20 sided die to make decisions is a brilliant idea. One day has 24 hours. If a project takes that long but happens to be split over many days, it is still technically a one day project, isn't it? Brilliant job. Looks amazing.
There is nothing wrong with your body, everyone is different, you're just unique from the person they based the person off off. I'm making my first stays soon, dreading it a bit as I know I'll need a LOT of mock ups, I'm also not the standard body shape used for patterns.
Absolutely. Every body is different and if you're using a modern pattern for a medieval garment, I'm sure it was based off a selection of surviving garments which may or may not be any kind of samples of how people were shaped at the time, and you can bet it's been "normalized" to current sizes and proportions. Which are a lie. On one pattern, I'm size 12 for the bust, 8 for the hips and 14 for the waist. Current patterns are not made for my "brick with boobs" shape, so I wear a lot of separates. There are things wrong with my body (as in a lot of it doesn't work the way it used to and more of it hurts than doesn't) but my proportions are my proportions and that's what we're working with, I don't know if any actual human is actually "average". I have about 4" / 10 cm difference between hip and waist measurements, and I've got friends who've got more than 14" / 35 cm difference. I'm not suddenly going to grow hips, and these friends are never going to reduce theirs. Make the clothing fit the body, not make the body fit the clothing. The Victorians and their padding had it right :)
My mom is allergic to wheat so I grew up eating those cookies. When I started making them with my kids they insisted on adding chocolate chips and rolling them in shredded coconut. At the time the were obsessed with pirates so they called them pirate cookies.
Sounds so yummy!!
😍 I'm GF too, may I ask where you get the recipe from?
@@bellasmith8821 it's not a recipe I ever had written down anywhere. It's just 1 cup peanut butter, 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 1 tsp vanilla, a handful of chocolate chips. Rolled in coconut and cooked the same way as any other basic cookie recipe.
Congratulations, amazing work!
For marking boning chanels: Carbon paper is a lifesaver. You can still go over with a pen, but just trace them with carbon paper in between and you are good to go.
Amazing. I love the subtle purple colour. And no one day project is ever truly one day so I'd say you're doing that right :P Looking forward to whatever you choose to do with other 18th C using these as the foundation!
"I'm gonna roll for it"
Yes! We do this in my house frequently. Every time we can't make a decision on something I grab a die and we roll for it. (And I'm a dice goblin so there are plenty to choose from. 😂😂😂 ) And yes, your D20 matched perfectly. 😃
The stays turned out beautifully. I love the color.
You need to have lots of dice. You never know when one of them will have to spend some time in the corner thinking about what it's done.
‘Why did you let me do this!’ Cat seriously. I rolled my eyes dear girl.
I get this.
I have a bad back, broke it twice over a ten year period, in three places. I haven’t learnt either. Designing, sewing, making its in your blood and mine too and thousands of your devotees …This is an amazing project and well done to you! I am so inspired and impressed. Hand sewed eyelets…. You rock! Congratulations on this 18th Century set of stays. Just gorgeous.
8 minutes in and Im living for the rambling and ✨️unpolished frantic mess✨️ - that's exactly how I felt the past weeks while designing and sewing for my exam projects and everything.
Finally I have a moment to sit down now after presenting last wednesday, if I don't get a call, I passed for my diploma in costume/fashion design! 😍
Im sorry I guess rambling is contagious haha. My best friend is hospitalized and I don't know how to properly REST because of that. Soooo I'm back in the sewing room to make a graduation piece!
Edit; maybe you can use a (help, words) LED light tracing pad for the boning channels instead of against a window? You can set the brightness and everything, i found that very useful for semi sheer fabrics like those!
One thing that has helped me with marking the boning channels are lightboards!! Saves me so much time and normally they’re magnetic so the paper won’t move.
Not an 18th century body😂😂😂 Do any of us, nowdays? You're a joy to follow.
Lovely. And, loved the lavender color! Also, your white blouse with the embroidered flowers was so sweet. Gorgeous fabric and so nice on you!
I chuckled at your thought/hesitation/processing momentary musical interludes. It's like the mind has a moment of something close to productivity with serene music but it falls just slightly short!
I used to use a tracing wheel and simplicity dressmaker tracing paper to transfer markings. Worked a treat and the little coloured dots washed out
Second the tracing wheel and paper. Works like a charm.
I personally find it so much easier to machine sew binding around tabs when i don't pin it in place first because I can move it around the curves so much easier. I really love these stays though, and they really suit you.
Maybe some little projects instead of a big one to get your sewjo back.
Like a simple apron, some pockets, or maybe a simple skirt.
I think your idea is a good one for more stays.
Stash things only is good.
I love the rolling to decide the thread was the perfect way.
If it’s a two option decision it’s a great option.
The cookies look yummy.
Older machines are workhorses.
They work wonderfully on heavy fabrics.
Don’t be discouraged about not making everything in such a short period of time.
A day is 24 hours. How you split them up is up to you.
I hate the pressure I see everyone put themselves under for one day makes.
You can split a day into twenty four hours however you like.
The only person who’s worried about the timing is you.
It’s ok to just do what you can when you can.
If you already had cut bias tape I’d have used it.
You’re going to fell those raw seams.
I know.
You’re at 18 hours. Still under a day which is 24 hours.
Then the it’s finished came on.
Be compassionate with yourself.
You did a great job.
So you did this under a day.
You said you did it in twenty three hours.
So under one day!!!
You did it!!!
Even doing the seam finishing you only went 1 hour over a day.
I think you should do some pockets before you decide what to do next.
Sorry, I sometimes treat videos like a conversation.
@@autumn7143 you just wrote what most of us are thinking! Well done!
I loved this way to comment!
Listening to some Portuguese was such a lovely surprise! 😍 Ficou incrível!!! Parabéns! 😍
I adore your Alice shirt, and I feel it definitely sums up crafters extremely well LOL
Love the dice roll. Try putting a white background down when tracing, plain no competing lines. Hope that helps.
That colour is divine, your eyelets look great, and 4 day stays aren't too shabby! Well done!
I miss your window in Scotland. Very pretty
Strangely, I miss the work they were doing outside her window for so long.. "Hi, I'm Cat, and welcome to my video..." *KA-CHUNK!* "...Grrrr..."
Hi tjryr and welcome back, Cat!
They are really lovely. The colour is beautiful and they look so perfect off and on you.
cat, the stays are just beautiful--wear them in abundant magnificent health! :)
so, you actually did do it in one day...just under 24 hrs! ;)
You should do an entire project were you make every decision based off rolling a dice or flipping a coin. 😁
This sounds chaotic and I love it 🤣
I second this suggestion. And will probably do it myself one of these days.
Job well done,! I'm just starting a corset myself, and scared to make the first cut in the fabric,, a mockup first, I think ,,
This project turned out stunning! I love the colour and they fit so well.
I love everything about these stays; the color is to die for!
xoxo's Sandie
Excluding seam finishing you made them in less than a days worth of hours. So arguably you did make stays in day :-p. They look very pretty.
Oh! I love cold brew. Sorry yours didn't turn out : ( Highly recommend making it extra strong. You can always water it down later if you need to. I think I usually do about a 1 to 6 ratio by weight - 1 gram grounds per 6 grams water and let it sit overnight.
Very pretty stays! That was an impressively fast pace make.
They turned out so beautifully!! That colour is *stunning*!
I adore the flower embroidery on the blouse you wore the first day.
And four days is still fast! I don't have the stamina to sew for maybe two hours a day (unless I want to strain myself, which I sometimes do and then instantly regret it), so most projects take a month for me.
I’m like 1 minute in but I’m so excited!!!
OKAY BUT THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL?? And I don't think it's even cheating to space out your 'day make' over the hours you have in a week. Technically, you only went over by an hour. I'm calling that a win.
First time watching your channel. Delightful video and the music is beautiful
Priorattire has a very straight forward video on the English Robe.
The eyelets on the front were to put in and take out a busk, while your wearing it, as far as i know. I liked it when you counted in 🇵🇹
I think what you achieved in the time you did it - or even if it had taken you a month - was absolutely amazing - and my word but they're so so beautiful and feminine and I adore the colour you choose.
That turned out fantastic Cat!
They look great and it is exciting that the modification made them more comfortable. I will be happy to watch whatever you choose to make
Your stays are lovely! I just finished making my first 18th century shift after being inspired by the video you did for one of those. These are definitely next on my list.
I have now made a very similar pattern, except I did lacing both in front and in back, aiming for a 2 inch gap in the back that I can adjust as needed, but then a front lacing for making it easier to get into it.
Try reading Diceman? It could randomize your life completely.
Birdy
Absolutely gorgeous!
BEAUTIFUL!!🥰
They are lovely! 😍
I loved!
They came out gorgeous! Totally worth it & hopefully they're really comfy!
So pretty! Love the color! Just beautiful, and you should be so proud of them!
So pretty! Great job and I love the enthusiasm at the beginning about being able to do it in one day. ❤
You did a beautiful job! Obviously I love the color!
Absolutely beautiful end result ☺️☺️ and thanks for the wordle reminder 😁
I love the flower embroidery on your bodice!
The thread cut offs, I keep them and chuck them into my scrap fabric pile and use them later on for any stuffing needs in the future
Cat, love the color and stays! 24 hours is just too little time! Relax and have fun!!
I finished this exact pair of stays in January! Augusta Stays in a light purple linen with white binding - so fun seeing you make these:D And I'm looking forward to see what you make using these as a foundation, I need som inspiration!
So lovely to see you make some 18thc stays! I'm puzzling through my own mockup at the moment and it's very slow going because I ridiculously decided to do the mockup by hand (whyyyyy? Largely because I was too lazy to go and buy some sturdy top thread.)
I would love to see what you do with a Robe a L'Anglaise! I'm angling to make one myself but have basically no experience with it or anything like it. Can't wait to see what 18thc adventures you're planning!
I'd love to see what you do with the Scroop Amalia Jacket, specifically if you turn it into a historybounding item?
I may have already acquired this pattern for this purpose 👀
Estou a fazer este espartilho agora. Passar as marcas dos canais das varetas era uma parte que me estava a preocupar bastante, mas depois percebi que se usasse papel vegetal cortado na forma das peças do molde e passasse todas as marcas por cima, dos dois lados, com um lápis 6b, dava para usar essas peças em papel vegetal para transferir as marcas para o tecido, é só carregar por cima do desenho, como o lápis 6B é macio passa para o tecido muito bem! E consegues usar para o lado direito e o lado esquerdo do espartilho, basta virar o papel 😁 demora um bocado mais, mas ficas com esse esquema das marcas para usar em qualquer outro espartilho que faças com esse molde ☺️ agora quero experimentar essas bolachas!
Why do you put so much pressure on yourself? You reminded me of my daughter. Took me years to convince her a bad test could happen and an 80% was not in fact the end of the world!! That much stress is not good for you. Be nice to yourself!!
They look stunning! I’m sure that you will enjoy them for years!
You want to do an L'anglase, then I think that's you should do. They are beautiful!
Oof. Kudos to you for the effort. As someone who has attempted this same project, I definitely would have advised against it. I think I read somewhere in the RedThreaded pattern commentary that as a professional and experienced corset maker, she can do one in 8 hrs (I think that's assuming almost entirely modern methods and tools), but a beginner should plan to spend over 20 hours on a pair of stays or corset. So, the time it took you was perfectly reasonable. Can a corset or pair of stays be made in a day? Short answer, yes, but it will be back-breaking, hand-numbing, brain-frying work and you may be in pain for a day or two afterwards.
20:51 Imagine Mad King Aerys Targaryen making XVIII century stays and screaming: _" bone it all! bone it aaaaall! "_
I'm in the process of moving to an older house that belonged to my dearly departed dad....and doing renovations, remodels and repairs. This precludes me from doing any sewing. Cat, your video makes me want to stop all my woodworking and play with fabric again! 🥺 ....alas, I cannot. Paint stripping, staining, painting and hardwood floor renovation are top priority now. Your Stays are so beautiful!!!! What did you dye your fabric with, M'am?
I'm so glad to hear it motivated you to want to sew! I used Rit Dye and a pot on the stove :)
Its beautiful! You look great in it! Does the arm pit area bother you? (just wondering for future projects)
Very beautiful! I’ve always wanted to make linen stays but haven’t got past fitting it properly.
Fitting is so difficult when you've never had proper fitting garments and so don't know what it's supposed to feel like and look like!! I'm just lucky I have a friend I can call/zoom with when i'm having issues, she knows what's "good enough" and what's really not.
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 You've nailed in right on the head with your comment of never having properly fitted clothing. I don't have a mannequin yet. Maybe that needs to be factored in to my budget. Good mannequins are hard to come by where I live, and shipping fees right now are exorbitant. I'm staying patient with the "good things come to those that wait" philosophy.
@@tls8688 I figure if I'm gonna get a mannequin, it's got to be custom fitted to me. A storebought mannequin is never going to work for me, I'm all the wrong proportions. My "natural" waist location and circumference won't work for anything with a waistband, my just above the hips waist measurements won't work for anything without, and if I were to go by pattern sizes, my bust is a size 12, hips are a size 8 and my waist is a size 14-16 (depending on high or low), I have a short thick torso, narrow hips and low rise so the waist will inevatlbly be in the wrong place on a mannequin unless it's highly adjustable. And even then, I discovered by measuring a waistband that stays up and isn't uncomfortable that if I were to use my waist measurement where that waistband actually goes, I will lose my pants. I have to squish three by three inches or my pants will fall off my hips. But if I use that squished measurement on a dress, I'll end up with the whole thing riding up above the bottom of my ribcage to where the narrowest part of my torso is. Stupid body!
In my humble opinion, for those of us with less "average" bodies, going through the pain of developing a fitting bodice block is well worth it, even if it required several hours of help and at least threee mockups.
Love the color, I tried to follow your link from your blog to your Instagram and that link is broken in your blog.
iirc the augusta pattern recommends carbon paper, which worked a treat for mine!
Hi, love the colour of your new stays, they look beautiful,one quick question? If it's not too personal, is it comfortable with the bust area or do you think it's a good idea to make some bust support pillow things.💖
I found it very comfortable!
To trace the boning channels Couldnt you place the paper pattern under the lining both on top of a light box (I used my iPad tbh) and trace?
Could indecisions be name related? 🤔 I have a very indecisive Catarina at home!
Talvez! 🤣
So pretty, do you wish you had used bias binding instead of the straight grain strips to bind it?
The straight grain actually worked fine in the end! I was very surprised 🤔
Hi Cat so funny to sudden hear you count in Português, you probably are like me ,gone to another country sometime in jour life , I was a child when I found meself in Holland that was 50years ago , I never went back to live in Portugal no special reason it just didn't happen, enough of that very much enjoyed your video , ofcourse did subscribe, all the best to you .Kind regards
I wonder if the cookies where still good or a bit burned around the edges🤔
Thanks for this Cat. I've been having a really tough few days, but this video cheered me up no end. The stays are absolutely stunning and that beautiful lavender colour really suits you. I particularly loved the part where you looked dishevelled with lots of peices of thread all over your top and even some in your hair. It made me laugh out loud. I would personally love to see you make a voluminous polonaise. Most historical costumers on CZcams never seem to use enough fabric in their 18th century gowns in my humble opinion. More fabric equals more pleats and more volume, and that simply can't be wrong. Oh and by the way, your aim of a one day make was indeed met. You completed the stays in 23 hours. Correct me if I'm wrong, but in my book, that's constitutes less than a day. You should be so very proud of yourself. Congratulations and thanks again. This truly was such an entertaining project. Best wishes. Anna 🥰
It looks gorgeous! I noticed you counting in Portuguese! Are you from Portugal?
Ok, I mostly just want to know how to make spiral lacing (ok fine, any lacing) not so horrendously difficult. Or maybe my expectations are off. I want the adjustability of lacing with the quickness of a zipper!
The stays look fantastic!
I'm curious as to how you managed to make cold brew taste like tea or milk. Perhaps it was not strong enough?
I really don't know 😱
@@CatsCostumery are you going to try it again? Maybe with less milk afterwards? (What sort of process was it?) Did you want any tips, or such, or, was it just a fleeting mention & you've moved on, already?
In Regards to your cold brew: Did you let it brew over night?
I did!
At 17:16 I got so confused when you start counting in Portuguese, I was like: 'what?? I thought she was British?? I am confusion...'
I am Portuguese! :)
@@CatsCostumery Ahaha great to know, I had no idea, so am I. Já posso dizer que sigo uma CZcamsr portuguesa :P
Lol! "I'm gnna make these stays in a day!" Proceeds to get blood test, makes a batch of cookies, bakes a second batch of cookies🍪🍪
Agreed, marking the boning channels is THE WORST part
Maybe the front lacing is designed for breast feeding. They are lovely. I think I will give the pattern a go now.
Wait you're portuguese. I've been seeing your videos and never noticed since you have got that UK pronunciation. Cool
Why don't you use carbon paper and a wheel to trace out the lines onto your fabric? It would be a lot quicker and easier?
I'm not a big fan of carbon paper, it's more of a personal thing 😅 I've found it really hard to remove from clothes without fully washing them (and even then!) So I avoid using it for things I can't really wash
@@CatsCostumery fair enough.
Is it supportive of the chachas? I want to be able to wear one without a bra.
I too tried to make a corset in a day, because I know it takes 10 hours ish, so that's a day, right? Stupid idea.
I've now taken 2 bank holiday days and it's still not done! I lost enthusiasm over cutting bones and eyelets.
Maybe one day...
🇨🇦😃
The title alone had me sucked in. Beautiful color but your poor sanity and fingers, I imagine.
18th Century Stays Stockholm Syndrome continues