How to Restore Aluminum Motorcycle Parts like a Pro for Cheap
Vložit
- čas přidán 10. 06. 2024
- In this video, we're going to teach you how to Polish Aluminum Motorcycle Parts like a pro. By the end of the video, you'll be able to restore damaged aluminum parts like a professional!
Polishing aluminum motorcycle parts can be a tedious and time-consuming process, but with the help of this video, you'll be able to polish your parts quickly and easily. Once you've watched the video, you'll be able to polish your aluminum motorcycle parts like a pro!
Sign up for the E-Newsletter!
www.keeponwrenching.com
Here's how to polish oxidized aluminum! There’s a process to doing a restoration well and it will take some serious time. The results are extremely rewarding. Here’s how to polish your vintage aluminum parts.
00:00 Overview
01:25 Best Sandpaper for Aluminum Polishing
18:40 Colonel Brassy for Aluminum Polishing
21:36 Wizards Metal Polish Application
Subscribe for updates and follow along on social media!
/ bvmatson
/ bvmatson
This video series features the complete restoration of a 1972 CL350 Honda Scrambler motorcycle. The videos should help anyone whether working on a cafe racer build or a full-on original restoration. I'm definitely not an expert so please refer to your manuals for proper disassembly and assembly instructions. Please leave comments if you have any questions. I'll be happy to help answer questions if I can confidently provide solutions. Again, I'm not a professional. This is my 2nd Honda motorcycle restoration and I'm learning every single day. I'd love to hear your tips if you have better ways to do things. I hope you find the series useful and entertaining. I strive to show as much detail as possible so that the videos can be used as not only a how-to resource but also a reference for the placement and original set up of parts and systems.
If you don't have one already please get a manual for your specific project. There are many available online for download for free.
Common Motor Collective, from which I source many of my replacement parts, has a fantastic resource on their website: bit.ly/CBManuals
You can also join groups on Facebook and get involved in the community.
Keep on wrenching, Friends!
b - Auta a dopravní prostředky
A bench-mounted grinder/polisher can be a great help.
Agreed. I went old school to show it can be done with minimal materials if you put in the time.
@@KeepOnWrenching A disc made of several layers of fabric on a drill, and some wax, could have done it in 1/10 of the time, and it would look like chrome when you are done
@@Pianissimo1970 that’s the biggest load of bologna I have heard
@@MrThatnativeguy not my problem u'r too stupid to figure out how its done, it worked for me so s t f u
@@Pianissimo1970 depends on the oxidation and or scratches.
On something in bad shape you got to have something that will really cut into it and make it smooth.
I am doing the wheels on my truck. Very large project. Two things which helped to start were, Turtle wax coarse buffing compound and an aluminum polish which contains an acid which works well. Love the informative videos, keep 'em coming.
Thanks for the info, Craig! Really appreciate it. Glad you’re enjoying the vids.
That transformation is incredible! It will take for ever to do this to an entire bike 🥲
It’s quite a process for sure. I use a buffing wheel now. Much quicker!
Adding a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid really helps lubricants the job
Will do! Thank you.
Nice vid man. Thanks for not using cheesy music! Subbed. Looking forward to the rest!
Lol. No cheesy music beds allowed!
Great job my friend..you put in the time you will get the shine. Looks great
Thanks, Eric!
great video , respect for the hard work and as you say its worth it in the end brilliant finish .
Thanks, Peter!
Bud, half the work can be cut by brushing on some MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) nearly all aluminum engine covers and cases have thick layer of clear coat keeping it from corrosion and pitting. Now, when you get it polished, you need to hit it with clear unless you want to watch it pit over all again as soon as you ride the bike in the rain. The acid nature of waters will pit that up in no time if you don’t shoot it with clear.
Thank you. I appreciate the info.
@@KeepOnWrenchingAcid nature of waters?
Great video. I was trying to explain to my brother in law. That he can get his bike to look awesome. This video will help convince him. Again thanks and keep em coming
Oh fantastic! These old bikes can shine again. Glad you’re helping him out and the video is useful.
Excellent video! Working on a 1984 Honda CT110 and can use your tips!
that is amazing how it came out looking great work ..i have a set of car rims to do but just the lip of them the centers are painted.....awesome video
I tried so many methods and different products with not-so-great results. Glad to have come across your video. The old-school method worked the best!
It’s a fun process too. Enjoy the journey.
That was an impressive transformation. 👍 Also... I am one of those guys that painted his cover. I’m going blue anodized to make the motor be the focal point of the bike.
Go get it!
Its great to see what can be done with elbow grease and minimal tools!
It can be done. Got myself a buffer recently. Game changing if you have the space.
Brilliant video thanks 👌
Glad you enjoyed it!
A tough labour of love for sure, but so worth it. I agree with cleaning and waxing metal parts often.
It can be done!
Thanks from Australia. I used paint stripper to first take off the clear coat on the engine side panels on my Honda CB250. Saves a bit of time sanding but it's still a long and tedious job. Used 1200 and 2000 grit wet and dry to get the last traces of oxidation off. Last operation was to hit it with Mother's aluminium paste then resprayed with enamel clear coat.
Cutting the clear helps a lot!
Yeah, bud….this dude has never used Methyl Ethyl Ketone to remove the factor clear and a cotton wheel on his bench grinder along with a bar of white rouge. I could have that points cover finished like a mirror in about five minutes.
You sound enthused about doing this and I do as well. You have more than earned the right to buy yourself a corded 2” DA which can sand, buff and polish.The DA will do the work in 30 seconds what would take you 10 mins. No hand pain. They cost a few hundred bucks but a must have on a restoration project such as this. You do some very nice work
Added to my shopping list! Thanks. Very rewarding to bring these back. I like that anyone can do this regardless of tools, etc.
@@KeepOnWrenching And that anyone can do it with tools! And you've got all the tools of the craft to shift from one thing to the next, which is awesome, Totally appreciate that and your enthusiasm, and that you sound like Jack Black which is totally awesome, the wizard stuff was cool
@@dennisangelotti67 thanks so much!
@@dennisangelotti67 haha, I was thinking Jack Black too
Great video. I loved you in School of Rock!
Lol
Nice work.
I appreciate that.
Outstanding job, Thank you!
Thank you!
P. S I also made my own drill tool. I cut many small pieces of denim and used a hole punch to make a hole in the middle. I would use a bolt and nut through the centre with a washer each side. You will end up with a realy tough polishing tool you can put in a drill. You apply a cutting compound of your choice. Works great for many jobs.
That’s ambitious. Great work.
Great video!
Thanks so much.
after seeing Wizards polish here i bought some, sent to australia didnt take long to arrive and was AUD$39 it has done many jobs and should last at least a yr longer great stuff and value
That’s great to hear! I’ll have my can for a very long time
The more I listen to you the more I'm thinking your jack blacks missing brother or somthin, very satisfying to watch
Ha! I had a cold. That helped.
Awesome stuff. Tedious, but gratifying... haha
Very tedious but it can be done.
If you're hand sanding something small like that. Put it in a tray full of water and continually dip your paper in that as you sand. That cleans the paper and the surface at the same time. Your paper will last longer and cut better.
Great tip!
I was polishing parts 30 years ago but we used a polishing wheel maybe four inches wide, this was still a small machine from what there is out there. I never tried removing the first level of material with a soda blaster, but I sure would try it. Im all about blasting through the initial steps with power, but its all about what you can be satisfied with.
Exactly
Good job man. I am restoring a ‘70 Kawasaki Trail Boss. I parked it in my dads shed when I went in the service 50 years ago. I had forgot it was even there. All in all it is in pretty good condition. The spokes, (they are a REAL pain) chrome springs over the rear shocks, the handle bars, the chrome ring on the headlight, have rusted and pitted pretty good. The rims themselves rusted very little and cleaned up well. I was thinking I would get the other parts re-chromed, but I am trying to restore it back to original though. The only thing not original is the rear tire. I have labored for hrs and hrs and hrs. I am going to get me the products you used and give them a try. Thanks
Sounds like you’re putting in the time and will reap the rewards. Good luck! Go get it!!!!
@@KeepOnWrenching Good question on the spokes btw! Do you attack spokes the same way with wet & dry? I read somewhere that doing that will only cause them to rust faster...your opinion?
Yeah spokes are tricky. I would go to aggressive there. Steel wool 000 at most. Sorry I missed this reply and for the delayed response. I hope you’re still making progress.
zhukie I thought of that too. I waxed them after each session. I think I may end up having to replace the spokes. It took a lot of work using 0000 steel wool but got the springs cleaned up pretty good. The handle bars shined up pretty well but do have some pits in them. The headlight ring is the same.
Enjoyed seeing your process, though it kind of triggered some PTSD from how much time I’ve spent on a 32-foot 1950 vintage aluminum trailer. I kept trying to imagine taking on that project by hand and it literally made my stomach turn. I know you’re trying to show folks how it’s done on the cheap, but time is money and $500 worth of tools and another $100 in polishing compounds would take this job down from three months to three weeks. Plus, no carpal tunnel syndrome - although the polishers definitely take some new muscle memory to be really effective. I think I spent $200 on a new Dewalt 7-9” 13 amp polisher, $120 on a vintage Cyclo polisher and another $100 to have it refurbished (they’re like $450-500 new), and then $65 on a HF dedicated buffer for smaller parts. The 70 years of oxidation, dried silicone, old paint and tar-like crud was so thick, I started out with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Then four stages of Nuvite and/or Brightwork compounds turned the heavy scratches into a mirror finish. Dirty, hard work with endless amounts of black grit to be cleaned out of pads and towels. But the trailer was transformed. Now I use the same techniques, on a far smaller scale, on my 1972 BMW R75/5 moto.
It’s not a race.
I did this back in the day with my Kawasaki Z1000. I also painted the recessed areas to match the tank and side covers
That’s a cool idea!
Red Scotch-Brite pad on a wheel works wonders for that first step.
Good call!
this is a great video, thankyou very much
My pleasure! I’m glad it helped you out. Good luck with your project!
I agree with the sanding steps and progressing carefully through that. Why not use Nuvite and a wool buffing pad to make it look like a mirror?
You could but it’ll dull over time a bit and I hate clear coat.
Never Dull works just like you Wizards cleaner and cheaper. Great vid.
Thanks, man!
nice work
Thank you!
I spray aluminum brightener on my stuff. Rinse it off after 30 sec or so. Use 3m's 3 stage metal polishing compound then use never dull and for me it works a lot faster and comes out looking like a mirror. The difference is, my method doesn't get out all of the imperfections in the metal but when polished up, I barely notice them. I mean I really have to be looking for them.
Awesome tips! Thanks so much. I’ve been hearing a lot of people like those scotch pads.
Mother's polish works great for this, but love your effort
Thanks, Craig. I don’t mind putting in the time.
@@KeepOnWrenching looks excellent, you do an amazing job
I like to use a Dremel with some homemade disc on a cutting wheel mandrel. I use Velcro to hold sand paper on. And at the slowest speed. Also add some dishsoap it seems to stay longer and not be thrown off as bad, from the speed of the dremmel.
Haven’t tried the dremel. Bits are expensive…I like your approach.
Vid is cool bro, theres many areas where sandpaper may help small areas but for larger parts it’s well into the money in paper to use a bench buffer. However you need to research those before buying its nice to have dual speed and several sand, cutting and buffing wheels. I say this for less time, to get show quality polishing ( and carpal tunnel ) good job hope your bike comes out great
Totally!!! Not everyone has one tho.
I am trying to restore and fix a 1980 honda twinstar 200 cc 4 speed 6 volt battery and I did not know about the wet sandpaper until today,, thank you.
Wet sandpaper is awesome. Really clean final finish can be achieved! Glad you found the video useful.
Hey Brain first off want to say thanks for doing these videos, especially how you show your mistakes as well, just how videos should be when learning this stuff like I am....Anyway just a quick question on why you didn't Sandblast your engine parts, a buddy of mine said you can sandblast Aluminum, as long as its like baking soda, or walnut shells.....Just curios, of if you didn't know you could do that wanted to give you a heads up for next time...I haven't watch any other videos yet besides the CL project up to this video now.... just to let you know also you gave me the confidence to just get a old bike and start working on it like you have and will start this spring if I can find something similar....Thanks Brotha!
I have been treating the engine as a completely different project on this build. I’ll get to the engine. I’ll be featuring vids on cleaning that up for sure. I want to get it to a rolling frame first. Glad you are getting some inspiration from the vids. Trying to be as detailed as possible. Long way to go but I think I’m over the hump. I’ll look into options on cleaning the engine. I’d love to just blast it. I like to take my time on the other stuff as I love that polished aluminum look. Blasting tends to leave a bit of a more matte looks. Good luck with your project bike. Go get it.
I call this "cold polishing"... very good results but with a high time deficit. When I polish, I only go to 400 - 600 grit at the smoothest. But i will then use rouge compound on a mop and then switch to a super fine compound on a mop. If you don't have a decent bench or hand polisher (£££££) Then this is by far the best method. Thank you for sharing.
That’s a great term. I was in no rush. Had limited resources, but could still get the job done respectfully.
Really informative! Do you throw the microfiber cloths in the washing machine and use them again? Will the metal particles wash out? I’m working on a 1975 CB200T. Keep up the good work!
I do wash them and reuse them but completely separate from everything else and on a "deep wash" cycle. I haven't noticed any issues with the washer or anything by doing so. The first time I did it I was a little nervous though. lol Just keep them all separate from everything else. Thanks for watching and I'm glad you found the video helpful. Good luck with the 75 Cb200. Make it shine like new! :)
I wouldn't recommend a washing machine as the fine aluminum has a chance of lingering. I just use a pail with dish soap and a high pressure hose. Either does work tho.
I agree with Seth's comment. A bench-mounted polisher/buffer could cut your polishing time down.
At the time I didn’t have one. They are nice but it can be done without.
what about a rotary tool? I would try that before rubbing like that. I do agree it HAS to be done! Looks so much better!
Definitely! If you've got one, use one. The heads are bit expensive though.
You don't have to get to a mirror bright finish, but that's just my opinion. Mothers mag wheel polish is the best thing out there. I've been using it for over 35 years and found nothing better.
WOW 😮
Right?
i use a dremel tool with abrasive buffing wheels. easier on your hands and quicker
Love me a Dremel but those bits get spendy and the cheap ones don’t last. Plus I find it kind of relaxing. If I was getting paid by the hour I’d definitely expedite the process.
Rotary tools are excellent but too risky for an amateur, they can take off a lot of material fast with the right bits.
@@KeepOnWrenching I agree it's very soothing and relaxing to me too, but what about using a vapor blaster, I'm about to invest in one, do you think it's a good idea? Maybe I could save some effort
@@KeepOnWrenching Saying because need a way to get into those holes, nooks, cranies and lettering
Hey man I almost threw my ohone at the end it was so damn shiny like a mirror. I have a question. Can I hire you to polish my aluminum RC chassis and wheels? If not how do you recommend doing this on some small aluminum RC wheels? It would be difficult to go in a circle motion inside the wheels. Great tutorial video!
I’d recommend a dremel tool. Lots of tiny buffing heads available.
Long way correct job
If you got time it isn’t so bad.
there's also tools you can use to speed the process up like in Dremmel ,bench grinder ECT...
Start your process with phenol and hot water and fine scotch brite wash it off and examine your part.you’ll save a lot of w/d paper.change direction at each grit change.dial buff with sheep skin and good car polish.enjoy👍👏
Thank you for the suggestions. Much appreciated.
I have some wheels from a dirt bike that are pretty rusty. do you think the method you used on the fender should work? pretty sure they are chrome
Sure. Chrome is chrome. Start with WD and 0000 steel wool and go from there.
The difference is amazing. I'm trying to rebuild my grandpa's 1982 Honda cb650sc nighthawk in memory of him and was planning on replacing a lot of items but after seeing this video, I think I'll try to save as much as possible. How do you know what material everything is made of? Like rims, forks, e.t.c
Most the engine covers and fork sanctions would be aluminum.
Love The Video Mate Need To Do This On My VTR 1000F Firestorms Front Forks Any Advice ?
My Easy Way Out Was Black Or Silver Hammerite Paint BUT I Like Shiney :) And Like Your FINISHED RESULT! :)
PS I Have An Electric Screw Driver And Felt Tips Any Help Would Be Grateful Sir..:)
Made In Japan Polished At HOME:)
Thanks!
Wow, Brian! that is "Brilliant"! I reckon that my XS650 is actually as bad if not worse, but you've given me hope. Would I be lazy if I used an Orbital Sander for each grade, or is that a stupid question?
I’ve never tried that. Give it a try but don’t get too carried away. Power tools rule.
If you have the means and the space give it a try. Just be careful breathing in the dust. Not good. I like a more gentle approach to things. You never know until you try.
I agree with Seth. Use a bench-mounted polisher.
Got one now. Goes much faster. But something relaxing about doing it that way too
Ohhh the good old times when CBC IPA was still in a bottle
It’s not anymore? Boo!
Never heard of Colonel Brassy,you ever used simichrome? stuff is amazing, im restoring a 550 and the casings are not as bad as yours but not far from them either, i used some 1000 grit and then polished them with simichrome,they look really nice,all done by hand,they dont look as nice as the one here but good enough for me.
Never heard of it. Is it like rub n buff? I’ll look into it. Thanks for the info!
Just a tip it helps to use a little detergent in the water like a few drops of dish washing liquid. Give it a try next time. We even did that rubbing back new paint jobs. Rik
I need to remember to do that.
How do you polish down into the recesses like the bolt-head countersinks, etc.?
Benjamin Root I roll up a small piece of sandpaper really tight and work it into those grooves. It’s slow going but it can be done. Just work your way through the different grits. I hope this helps.
There are a couple other tricks you can try: Get a couple old drill bits that are smaller than the holes you are trying to clean up. Wrap the bit with steel wool 000 or 0000 and carefully let it revolve in the hole. You may need different size bits. Check the wool to make sure you have enough wool never to allow the bit to come into contact with the bolt hole. You can put a wad of steel wool considerably larger than the bit, it will compress into the hole. You can also do the same thing with a Dremel tool and various polishing pads and inserts and compounds. Just let the tool carefully revolve with its pad or bit. It is trickier with a Dremel tool because of the speed.
I wrap the sand paper around a pick, screw driver, kabob stick, anything that fits. It just takes even more patience.
Be careful about mixing metals … aluminum and steel, etc. The parts manufacturers go to great lengths to keep metals separate in the manufacturing process. You don’t want to embed foreign debris into the part.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to do it! Really satisfying for us to see the finished (portion of the) product too!
I use a bench grinder with the guards removed and a rubber expander wheel and various grades of abrasive belts from the Eastwood Co. This is to smooth out imperfections or damage on aluminum parts. I restore vintage bikes and it is a big time saver. Once the part is ready, I have a dedicated polisher with various grades of buffing wheels and 4 or 5 different compounds. Each wheel and abrasive is different and as you showed, start off course and work your way to as fine as you want. I do stock restorations so I don't buff aluminum parts to look like chrome. The 60s and 70s bikes had their parts quickly polished then clear coated. Which brings me to one last point. Rather than trying to sand or buff clear coat off, I use automotive paint stripper which saves a lot of time and effort. Very informative videos! I just discovered them and will be watching more!
I’ve since uograded
Yeah I saw a video where this guy was using that stuff, he didn't show what he was using to eat the paint though but it looked cool as hell
nice
Not too shabby indeed!
If I also wanted to repaint the “Honda” part of that cover, when do you suggest that would happen, before the aluminum and then sand up to it when polishing, or after and clean off the excess paint?
I’d get it where you want it polishwise then go for the detail on the name area.
@@KeepOnWrenching I’d love to see a video on cleaning the hard parts like the bolt holes.
Good advice on the gloves, they're an absolute must, aluminum is toxic and absorbs easily into skin once sanded so finely.
I just spent about 30+ hrs doing this on a set of rims but it was worth it, they look better than new.
I had to start with 100 grit in order to sand the machining grooves out, it gets easier with each step up.
Finished with mother's aluminum polish and they mimic a chrome finish it's so mirrored.
WY to stick with it. It’s a gradual process for sure. Gets easier as you go. The results are worth the time and energy.
I am in same process. My personal opinion is the Blue Magic polish was more effective than the Mothers. I used Scotch brite pads and they were effective as well. I honestly have no idea how I’m going to do those inner wheel spindles.
Show lace with compound
You can save a lot of time, by removing the clear coat with paint remover before you start sanding.
Getting that clear off is key! I’ve since starting stripping it off first. I hate clear coats! Lol
I do the same as you but at the end I clear coat it to stop it from happening again
Yeah…that clear will eventually crack and make life harder for the next t guy IMO.
@@KeepOnWrenching I’ve been doing it for years and haven’t had a problem yet. I use a quality clear and a spray gun not a rattle can.
Definitely a better quality clear. Gotcha! Go get it!
used to drive honda but now run kawasaki guess we would have little in common but do make my own mash right on up here in north of ontario
We’ll there’s that! Lol
I have a xs850. And the person before me painted over the chrome. And it's a air cooled motor. Is it possible to remove the paint and be able to buff it good enough to get the chrome shine out of it.
Absolutely. Some paint stripper or thinner will take the paint off then you can polish it to a shine. I just stripped clear coat off some hubs and they are polishing up great! Stripping it saved a lot of sanding time too.
Absolutely. Some paint stripper or thinner will take the paint off then you can polish it to a shine. I just stripped clear coat off some hubs and they are polishing up great! Stripping it saved a lot of sanding time too.
Absolutely. Some paint stripper or thinner will take the paint off then you can polish it to a shine. I just stripped clear coat off some hubs and they are polishing up great! Stripping it saved a lot of sanding time too. Go get it.
You can also use a Dremel tool to polish aluminum.
You can!
No pain, no gain ;)
Exactly
A cheap harbour freight buffing machine and green rouge would make quick work of that thing.
Sometimes you gotta use what got.
aircond coil cleaner will clean aluminum effortlessly with just spraying
Will check it out.
I’ve tried this before and don’t have good luck.
An orbital palm sander would speed things up and I would start with 60 grit if it's really pitted.
It can but why rush things? :)
How I'd do it, covering up the threads with tape, & sand blast it, & powder coat paint it, good powder coating is damn strong, can even use it on the bikes springs
Polishing looks so nice though!
For the early grits, you should consider buying a palm sander. Two hours of work turns into 10 minutes. Clean up with the finer grits by hand.
Definitely. This worked tho.
How do you do the fins on aluminium cylinder heads
It’s an arduous task. I really haven’t found a good way. Time. Patience. czcams.com/video/22v42lonHEY/video.html
A lot of older Honda crankcases and covers are not aluminium but Magnesium
Good to know!
Sounds like a diy video made by “Steve-O”. Lol great job
People keep saying that! Lol
Seems to me someone has made tools that do all that HAND work you did which cuts the time down, though it is still time consuming. I polished 2 forks on my MC and it took me 3 days using a wheel buffing grinder pad and polish sticks. After I was done, I used SHARKHIDE on the forks to prolong the look. Wax might last a few months but sharkhide lasts years. It is a non yellowing clearcoat finish that is NOT CHEAP but works most excellently.
I kind of enjoy the process.
@@KeepOnWrenching Ok but would you like to prolong that process or simply continue to waste time after time doing it over and over ? Insanity is defined as doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.
It’s really not that bad. It’s a process. Not everyone can afford power tools. This is just a way that anyone can do it.
@@KeepOnWrenching LOL, everyone ? Anyone can afford a harbor freight oscillating tool that makes quick work of polishing using a custom made plastic adapter attached to it ..... far easier and faster. Time is money and I do not waste either one.
@@anonimous2451 for some it’s one-and-done project. Fixing up their dad’s old bike or something. Simply saying that there are many means to an end. When I recorded this I didn’t have many tools but still wanted to get things dine and make progress. It wasn’t a race. More of a process. Since then, I’ve added many tools because I do many bikes…for some, some sand paper, time, a beer and football game makes for a cheap yet rewarding experience.
This looks like a job for various methods of blasting.
Doable if you have the equipment.
when you do a lot of them,like i did for 50 years,you learn that time expended could be used more effectively elsewhere,when it came to these pieces,i usually had them walnut shelled or soda blasted,then attack with abrasives,then always ends in polishing,machine type,perfection takes longer,1 bikes gotta be worth it
It’s just a hobby. I don’t mind, getting an electric buffer was a game changer though.
@@KeepOnWrenching if you use it more than twice,you needed it,speed in restoration is everything,and customers expect it,good job
If your going to wet sand with a little water add a drop or two of dish soap it keeps the sand paper cleaner and also let's it sand easier it acts like a lubricant I always do this when I'm wet sanding ...
Great tip! Thank you.
I'm surprised you don't use those sponge/sandpaper on a polishing drill! And a bit of soap on the water to help de-grease as you go.
This is way before I had actual tools.
Theirs way more on the Honda nighthawk the engine top cover would take so long plus the back cowl even has aluminum on it
One piece at a time. This was before I had power tools! Lol
This is why you build a tumbler polishing machine.
That’d be cool
Pity the wizard polishing stuff is incredibly difficult to source outside the US (and stupidly expensive on the rare occasion you can find it lol) But great video! I will just try and substitute some other metal polish. My 19yo W650 deserves it. Oh and subbd :)
The process is the same regardless of products. Good luck! Go get it.
You may be able to find some Brasso polishing fabric that’s very similar. Also if you are in Europe find some Flitz products. They are very good at polishing metal as well.
Oh is that why he used so little and treated it like gold lol
Uhhh..... These were painted from the factory, I do believe. All except for the cap you polished and the round cap for the oil filter slinger.
Some were but these were typically clear coated. Just do what you wanna do. I love clean, polished, and maintained aluminum. Clear coat sucks on these…lol
Ladies and gentlemen you gonna be cursing and drinking a lot of beer while polishing your chrome 😂🍺
Sounds like a good time to me!
After watching this I'm gonna buy a bunch of sand paper and a case of Pilsner and get at my Stator cover on my 81 gs1100🤔🥴🧐
Sounds like a good time!
Can I ask why you use a wax product on the metal in the end instead of a more modern ceramic coating?
Looks great btw.
Just to protect it a bit. I had that laying around.
@@KeepOnWrenching ah all good. Sorry my comment reads a bit negatively but was just wondering if it was a special wax or something 😄
Any excess rouge left on peice comes off during waxing process
I appreciate the tip!
Looks great, but very time consuming !
It’s kinda relaxing
After 400 or 600.... Use jeweler's rouge (white) on 6-8 buffing wheel on bench grinder. Alot less work.
Thanks for the tip! I have noticed during the couple of years I can go to a buffer sooner. At the time I recorded this I didn’t have a wheel. I do now and it makes the process so much easier!
Vapour blast (wet blast) and then machine polish. Done.
Gotta use what I have available. I haven’t procured a setup like that...yet. Lol. I like putting in the time. It’s kinda relaxing. I don’t mind the time and personal touch. I’m sure over time that feeling will wear off. :)
@@KeepOnWrenching i just watched a CZcamsr convert a harbor freight sandblaster to a vapor blaster for 336 bucks
0000 Steel Wool wouldn't work on Aluminum? Or what is that, Wadded up tin/Aluminum foil and WD40 or something?
You don’t want to use steel wool on aluminum. It can pollute it. I used wet sandpaper. 400, 800, 1000, 1200 grits.
Is it normal to put wax on a motorcycle engine?
u work hard can do same thing u do in 1/8 the time-0000 steel wool and mothers aluminum polish mine come out looking like chome
I’ll give it a try!
Well...its been a year ...how did your bike turn out ...or are you still at it ...???
Ended up pretty damn good: czcams.com/video/F6XZCa46TLg/video.html
An orbital won't work?
Maybe on the first 400 pass to get the really rough stuff. I haven’t tried an electric sander because most of them are big and the majority of these covers are small with little.nooks.i do it by hand to keep it all consistent.i wish I could find smaller sander. At the end of the day it’s not so much to just do by hand. If you try a small orbital LMK how it goes.
Put a little dish soap in the water; helps clean as you sand and it lubricates the process.
Good tip. I’ll try that for sure.