Hartblei Focus Tilt vs Fuji Focus Stack using GFX 100
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- www.christophe...
We compare the results between an image that was shot with the tilt function on a Hartblei Medium Format 120mm to achieve foreground to background focus vs a Fuji Gf 110mm lens using a GFX 100 in Focus Stack mode.
![Why not to buy a tilt-shift lens [Fuji 30/5.6].Tilt-shift isn't magic, what do the lenses really do](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Zt9DjlaiUHA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Christopher -
2 Things to add:
The Hartblei does not add any sharpening in Firmware (as the Fuji Lens does-automatically)
so you have to sharpen that visually to the amount you like - and thus you cannot compare sharpen values on the images directly. You have to achieve the effect as you like it.
second: if you would like to do a perfectly sharp image with the Hartblei- try a focus stack with only a few images like maybe 3 in the same way you did the Fujinon.
This will finally blow the Fuji lens out of the water.
Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm(=Hartblei 120mm Zeiss Superrotator) rulez. :-)
Stefan - You of all people would know best, as you are responsible for that lens being in existence, and you are very correct regarding post sharpening. I did not think of that and stand corrected. I went back to the original images and with post sharpening there is a definite improvement. As for focus stacking with the Hartblei, for sure it will improve the overall sharpness, but that kind of defeats the point of making a comparison. What i did not and should have mentioned in the video, is that one is limited with tilt focus (on all tilt lenses) with the angle at which one can shoot. I found that anything less than 45 degrees, and you will not be able to achieve full focus coverage. With focus stacking, one is not limited by this.
You mentioned the Zeiss 120mm here as it’s the most sharp? If so which model?
@@harryvasutabu5523 The very last -leadfree-version of the lenses - made in the early 2000s for Hasselblad Cfe. We use exclusively these lenskits.
I have the camera and it’s good to know that it will survive a drop. The camera is built like a tank. We only use it for portraits, but if I were to use it for product photography I would definitely use the 110. I believe the 110 is their best lens. Never used tilt lenses, but I am sure that in other situations the tilt lens cannot be beaten for their practicality. Very informative video and straight to the point.
Thank you for the compliment. I actually have to admit to having dropped the GFX100 not once, but twice. 😱 When i bought my Arca Swiss Cube head, much to my surprise, I found that it did not have a safety button that needs holding down to release the camera. All my other heads over the last 30 years did, and it is the lack of this safety feature that caused it twice to slip off. Am by profession now, a property photographer, which means that we change lenses all the time and move the camera around a lot. Otherwise, the Arca Swiss is the best thing I have bought in many years. Worth every $ and it cost a few $$$$s.
The GF110 is an amazing lens and so is the GF23. As for tilt, it was the only show in town during the film days, but focus stacking puts it in retirement, unless the are moving objects in your shot, then it come out of retirement for that.
@@christopherleggettphotography I wanted to try the 23 but in reality the 45 is perfect for a larger group for portraits. I can see why the tilt lens would be more versatile for your type of work. I would prefer having the dials just like the 50s, but I know they did it for video. Good to know what type of head not to get if I don't want to drop my camera.
Cool demo! I have never shot with a tilt lens, your video makes me eager to try one!
if you are into photography, you will find T/S lenses great fun and sometimes indispensable. I used to shoot with a large format Sinar camera and it was hard to get me to leave my studio..
Just a few things to consider: If you want the best colour reproduction and sharpness you should consider using Capture One, it works much better with the GFX files, C1 renderd the images in much more detail. Also I don't think the comparison between the 110mm (which isn't as good for closeups with a closed down aperture) and the Hartblei (wich is made for closeups at a small aperture) isn't really fair. You should have compared the GF 120mm Macro with the Hartblei, then it would have been a fair comparison because the 120mm is way sharper in this case.
Hartblei is pretty good but sometimes they have 'dogs' in their lens lineup. The 45mm for PhaseOne was particularly bad but the 120mm TS looks very nice and capable.
I agree with most all you write, especially the part about C1. If you view my segment on shooting with Hartblei 40mm 35 format lens (czcams.com/video/X512MjWoN8U/video.html) you will note that i say the same and mention the reason i still use LR. The gist of this segment is not really to pit Hartblei against Fuji (although i am a little guilty of that), but rather show 2 opinions on how to achieve foreground to back ground focus. You obviously are familiar with Hartblei lenses by your 'dogs' reference. After receiving the lens, i had problem with faulty lens mount ring and they replaced that immediately by sending me a new one. Then the focus wheel is sticky and they are replacing it with a new Fotga Follow Focus system (yet to be received). And now am dealing with a small linear vignetting at full tilt and shift problem, which they are being most helpful with, but has yet to be sorted out.
@@christopherleggettphotography Sounds like they're really trying to keep you busy! All jokes aside, I think it's very admirable to see you put in such effort trying to get the best out of the camera and it's too bad that Hartblei doesn't seem to be focussing on quality control as much as they should be.
As I said, I've had experience with the 45mm for PhaseOne and that was horrible, even the old Mamiya 50mm Shift was slighty better (but just slightly).
You're absolutely correct, Capture One needs to implement stitching and also (in my opinion) focus stacking. Now why they have not already done so - I don't know. I keep bringing it up as a request for the new version and they keep ignoring it... so I have to resort to using Photoshop. It's not as elegant or as well implemented, but it works. Sort of. With regards to detail it's better than Lightroom but it's very cumbersome and prone to (user)errors.
@@Crispy_Bee Agree... most definitely Focus Stacking too
Great Video thank you. I have tried this a few times using Auto setting, just not seeming to work/ When I press the button to start the process- it refocuses on point A then just does one shot- What focus setting is required? I have updated the latest firmware as well.
Sounds, to me, that you did not set it in Focus Bracketing Mode.
look at my video at 7min 17 sec
Thank you for very much for sharing your skills and expertise.
Why, that is very kind of you to acknowledge that and it is my pleasure for people such as yourself. Makes the effort worthwhile.
Your videos are very educational plus you know what you talking about.
Enjoying your videos! I'm curious to know what lens you would suggest for shifting on a Hasselblad X1D. I've tried a few options and haven't really been satisfied with any of them. Currently I'm using a 24mm ts Canon lens with the techart adaptor. It's the best I've found that I can only get about half the shift before it's too soft and not usable. Any thoughts on a lens I could get a proper shift out of. I think the Canon image circle is 67mm. Cheers!
Hi Jesse, I am presently working with Hartblei Kiev company who are selling me, one out of five, prototype adapter units for my GFX100. Had to buy a Mamiya 75 mm shift lens, and will next but the 50mm for it. This is a link for you to better understand... hartbleilens.com/adapters?product_id=61.
I asked them about making one for a Hasselblad X1D and this is what they wrote. (Sergey is the owner of the Hartblei Comp) .... Sergey could do it if he would have a chance to get at the same time any X1D adapter, a X1D camera and a native XCD lens. The biggest problem of X1D with adapted lenses is the only electronic shutter making no fun having the moving objects in frame.
Let me know if you are interested.
BRAVO!
SUBSCRIBED!
Thank you and welcome on board 👍🏻
Definitely not the only camera that can shoot raw video, pro cinema cameras have it, Canon's 1DX mark iii & R5 have it, Sony A7Siii has it, Panasonic S1H has it and many more do.
I stand corrected for which i thank you.
Nice equipment, including the computer set-up. To me it looked like the Fuji stack was a better option. I have never used a tilt shift lens so, take what Isay with a grain of salt. Thanks for putting this vid up.
I agree with you. Also there is the fact that with stacking one is able to shoot from a lower angle, as with the Tilt, one has to be at at least 45 deg. or more.
Stacking works only in case of non-moving objects in frame. Flowers outside (nice weather but windy) and/or insects on them would ruin it.
Excellent point about moving objects in frame! I am left wondering if there is any advantage to using a tilt shift in combo with stacking (and using a macro rail-perhaps to cut down on the number of images needed to complete the stack?)
@@kirkstickney7394 This is exactly the point! This must be the unbeatable combination: 3-5 shots with the tilted lens on the rails would replace 80-100 focus stacking shots with the standard lens.
@@kirkstickney7394 That certainly can be done, but probably more for macro photography. The software update (not latest) fuji introduced for focus stacking is really good and it is all done at the push of a few buttons, whereas a macro rail is manual labour.
Everybody likes the shallow depth of field of Fujinon GF 110 wide open. But one can achieve it visually with tilt option of Hartblei Makro Planar T* 4/120, even try to make it more shallow.
Very true and that should be noted by all, but this segment was about trying to get everything in focus. Often a requirement when shooting product.
Hi! Excuse my ignorance.
What kneecap do you use in the video?
Thanks!
They are called sarongs in this part of the world.
@@christopherleggettphotography sry for my english. I wanted to say “ballhead” for tripod! jajajaj 😅
@@JonoDomongos very funny. where are you from? Anyway, it is a Arca-Swiss C1 Cube Geared Head with Arca Classic Quick Release with GP (Geared Panning) and sells for ~$1,900. Never bought it, because it was just too expensive for a tripod mount, but since i did buy it, i only wish i had bought it years earlier. I could do a whole CZcams segment on what a great piece of kit it is. Amazing time saver.
@@christopherleggettphotography I'm from Spain. Thanks so much for the information. I just discovered your channel and I can't stop learning. Thanks a lot!
Stacking only works if nothing in the scene moves.
Imformative video Sir.
Canon EOS-M with Magic Lantern can shoot RAW . :)
...and every day there are more. But thank you.
Sigma fp shoots in raw
if I get the memo right, this Fuji now can also do pixel shift multi-shoot. this is serious gear.
so with the focus bracketing/stacking, and, pixel shift multi-shoot, we are getting a serious result from this serious gear. commercial photographers are gonna love this extremely high-quality camera and the extremely high-quality photo this gear could produce.
Indeed. Big Boy's Toys