This is called coping. That's why it's done with a coping saw. This is the way this type of joint should be done and has been done for hundreds of years. Mitered corners are really only for outside corners. This was a good explanation.
@@funbro1 I tried your method a few times, but found that it was difficult to turn the piece upside down on the say, especially when dealing with a long piece of baseboard. It was just easier to cope the joint. I switched from a coping saw to a jig saw years ago.
After practice it becomes much quicker. I went slow it the video as it was a tutorial but it beats having caulking cracking shortly down the line. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the lesson. It takes a little longer at first, when you're doing something a different way. But when the finished joint looks so much better and tighter it's worth it. Plus a person gets faster and better with practice.
Yes. I needed this. Now I understand that it’s not just my home’s corners that aren’t perfect…. Going to try doing this later this week…thanks for this turorial!!!!
I will try this method out in a few weeks!...I started being the 45 degree Guy with caulk as "my friend". Then I graduated to coping with the miter saw fully and the results started to be come amazing. I started to become less reliant on the need for caulk. This method brings in the saw and miter saw together. Thanks for sharing!
Its called coping the inside corners. Years ago watched a senior trim carpenter use the coping saw as fast as you could miter the corners. He was running baseboard, and made it look so easy that i wondered why not just do them his way? There is a big difference between a man who has done finish work for 40 years, and a young guy starting out. Today im the old guy and when i cope inside corners i have a scroll saw. You can back cut the curves easy with it.
Yes, it’s called coping, and it can be achieved in a number of fashions using a bunch of different tools including but not limited to a grinder with a flappy disc, a file a scroll saw, etc. etc. etc. it does get faster with practice in the video it was done at a slower pace because it is an instructional video. Thanks for watching.
Good Vid. A jig saw with a coping foot or a table saw will work much faster, same quality results with a little practice, but good to see people still using and teaching the traditional older method with the hand saw... not everyone can afford all the tools of a professional
This is just one way to cut corners, with some of the tools I had at the time, there are many other ways...I have even used a grinder with a flap wheel to make corners look good in a pinch. Thanks for watching.
I have a huge job to do with about 50-60 corners to do... Seems like this is tedious, but will yield much better results than just cutting 45's and trying to fill with caulk. Thanks for sharing!
It is very tedious but most things that are like this are worth the extra effort if you plan to stay for awhile. You could save some time by just doing the 45's and caulk, but after a few times of this it goes quicker. Thanks for watching
Jeff Bateman We use small grinders to back bevel and cope instead of coping saws. Much quicker just takes getting used to. Just an idea if you have a huge project to do.
Thankyou for passing on the skill , of a thinking Tradesman , your young works that will one day be , Skilled Tradesman ,must love working by your side , ( well if they're smart enough to know that that have a great Teacher ,) well done !!!
Thank you for explaining the back side cut. I have seen it done in other videos but it wasn’t as well explained and I couldn’t see as well as what you provided in the video.
I did 440 meters ( that is 1600 meters of skirting) at my home using the method which does not bother with the 3 vertical cuts on the curve. I simply used the coping saw to cut around the edge of the curved top corner. Very simple, very clean.
Mmh 🎉SASCHA 🎉😢2😢22 😂222222za2AD433 2q332w😂qaaxz2•☆🎉😢OOOOOOL 1🎉2aDWW111 I am not a fan of the by 6's done in a couple of years 1D-3v@!•☆☆÷▪︎W❤2qQZAAQaw1❤
I know this video is 6 years old , But I just have to say :::::: You're F&#KING AWESOME !!! Sorry for the foul mouth but my angles suck butthole , and your method is way easier . Thank you So So SO MUCH ! You are Radicul man . and you're worth subbing to on CZcams . Thx you Sir .... For the Pro-Tips
This was interesting, I'm going to have to try it. I normally use a digital angle finder on the corner, then cut the two corner pieces based on that angle. I haven't been unhappy with the outcome, but will give your method a shot. Thanks
It works great and you can speed up the process by using an angle grinder with a flappy sander. The process is the same but quicker. Thanks for watching.
Looks nice. I recently watched another video where a Dremel was used to grind down the curvey portion. I haven't personally tried this approach but it seemed to work well.
Yes, there are many different tools that can be used such as a Dremel or a grinder with a flappy disc on it. In this video I was just doing the basics to show how it can be done, there are many variations from there. Thanks for watching.
As you get more experience you can do the hand cope cleanly and much faster in one cut starting from the top (thinnest) part of the molding. Key is to dive in confidently and keep the coping saw moving in a short/quick rhythm. I use a fine/thin blade which follows curves easily. Agree with undercutting: it allows you to slightly "crunch" the leading edge of the mating surface to the flat of the adjacent piece thusly eliminating any gap. Go around the room in a linear fashion and plan so your last piece hits a door casing square: it's a PIA to finish with a piece that needs to be coped on both ends.
I used the coping saw method 40 years ago on custom homes finish work. In my opinion the coping saw works so much faster and better than the miter saw. Doing twice the work for a cut.
The miter saw works good for the straight part removing material faster than the coping saw, then bring in the coping saw for the profile, but basically it's the same. Thanks for watching.
I wondered why also, but I think that everyone has their own way of doing this job and many think this takes too long based on a tutorial video, not thinking that in real time it would go much quicker. Thanks for watching.
No matter how much glue or caulk you stuff into a 45, eventually you will see it crack and have a gap in the corner. Coping, like this, is the right way to do it. It also permits a pressure fit, where the coped baseboard is actually a smidge too long, which then later counteracts shrinkage, which would otherwise create the gap. Same gap that is impossible to avoid when doing 45s on inside corners. Coping also lets you get away with out of square corners, whether a couple of degrees more or less, without changing anything. This would have shown up as gaps in regular mitres. Very good instructional.
Martin Poulsen nail the corner last agent nail the rest along the wall . Use your five-in-8one to pull the corners together before nailing. Caulk the top and it’s done. A good painter will make your work look tremendous
You are a life saver Bob! I have the 2 drawer DC224 2 drawer file cabi9net and your video hopefully will allow me to assemble and install the drawers. One issue I have is the side pieces that "click" into the "T" bracket, clicked on upside down. How can I release it from the "T" bracket to reinstall it correctly? Thank you. Pat
In the uk we call that scribing, if you try to mitre internal corners the boards always come open as the wood ages. Internal corners are always scribed by professionals. Also it’s best to do the scribed cut on the longer piece of wood as that piece shrinks more.
My dad showed me this trick today, and his cousin that has been a contractor ( who does some of the best trim I've ever seen ) for over 30 years showed him. If you take your time doing this, the seams come out really, really good.
Absolutely. square and tight and cope the next piece. Always work right to left so your copes are are on the right. left hand copes are a bitch for right handed people.
I live in an old house, and when I removed the old baseboards to replace them, they had these odd looking fishhook cuts at the end. I couldn't understand why. This is it. Thanks for the help.
I have used a belt sander, flap disk, grinder and yeah they work well but this is an instructional video so the intention was to show the concept with the correct tools. Thanks for your input.
There are skills to learn in either method. I think the Flap wheel works great for the more decorative trim. I use a dremel with the grinder and like the results and time it takes. I tend to get rammy with the hand saws. Great video tho..
In the UK we never mitre internal corners, even if they are a perfect 45 degree angle. The ease of fitting and creating the perfect joint is so much easier when scribing with a coping saw. As you said, even in new build the corners are never a true 45. The coping saw is designed so you can follow a mouldings profile, much like a band saw. I tend to cut the straight line on a mitre saw, or with a hand saw, then use the coping saw to follow the profile of the board. There is no need to stop and start cutting. With practice you will cut these profiles is a matter of seconds.
As a matter of fact I DO know how to use a coping saw just for your information. As stated in the video there are hardly ever any corners (outside or inside) that are a true 45 degree. I was hoping that people would understand the reason for cutting the 45, but maybe I did not make this clear. When you cut a 45 on the miter saw you are left with a line that can be used as a guide to cope the correct contour of the moulding. I could have sworn I covered it in the video, (check it out at 2:15) something like I used a pencil to show (for the camera and viewers) where the contour of the moulding is. As for cutting the straight line using a hand saw is fine but I find the miter saw will give a much better cut. Keep practicing with the miter saw and you may master it. I hope this video was a help to you. Thanks for watching.
Outside corners are better handled with just doing a miter cut. Use a piece of scrap to get the exact angle then cut your regular piece before nailing it on. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
You would be there for a week trimming out a house,no corners are perfect. What I do to make my 45 a nice tight fit is use a popsicle stick behind one side. It usually makes up the difference for the imperfection. Then a small bead of DAP to seal the deal.
It does matter which side you cut straight versus cope. Generally easier to cut the longest piece straight and then cope the shorter piece. Other situations as well that might dictate one piece with a straight cut on both ends and then cope two shorter sections into it.
You can eat dog poop while coping if you want to. But why would a person try to cope an eight foot trim piece when it would be easier to cut that flat and then cope the shorter two or three foot piece? Or if you had a small alcove; try to cope both ends of one piece? Much easier to cut the internal piece flat and then cope the shorter legs leading into the alcove.
What’s the style or name of that particular base that you are using? That’s what I have existing in my place, but I have had trouble trying to locate it. Thanks. Great Job!
How would you go about coping 22.5 inside corners? Sorry for asking. I just dont like how my corners come out and i like for my base to look really good
And this is just to connect 2 baseboards... I tried and it's really tough to make the covering end follow the lines of the second one. I 'd say one needs at least a few days of high precision artful wood cutting for training.
It takes a little practice and there are other ways to do this type of job. This video is just to show the basics...not the fastest or most popular. Thanks for watching.
This is called coping. That's why it's done with a coping saw. This is the way this type of joint should be done and has been done for hundreds of years. Mitered corners are really only for outside corners. This was a good explanation.
Yes, it is called coping. This is just another variation of coping using a miter saw. Basically the same thing. Thanks for watching.
@@funbro1 I tried your method a few times, but found that it was difficult to turn the piece upside down on the say, especially when dealing with a long piece of baseboard. It was just easier to cope the joint. I switched from a coping saw to a jig saw years ago.
That’s works well also. I have also used a flappy sanding wheel on a grinder to get the job done.
5 years later, you finally finished all 4 corners lol
After practice it becomes much quicker. I went slow it the video as it was a tutorial but it beats having caulking cracking shortly down the line. Thanks for watching.
@@funbro1 don’t listen to that dumbass. The video was awesome and very helpfup
Try coping with a flap disk on an angle grinder. It's messy but super easy.
I think same thing 🤣🤣🤣
This is the work of a true craftsman. Thank you for sharing this tip.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the lesson. It takes a little longer at first, when you're doing something a different way. But when the finished joint looks so much better and tighter it's worth it. Plus a person gets faster and better with practice.
Agreed, Thanks for the comment.
True
Yes. I needed this. Now I understand that it’s not just my home’s corners that aren’t perfect…. Going to try doing this later this week…thanks for this turorial!!!!
Finally!!! A video on coping that I understand. Thank you!!
Thanks for watching.
I will try this method out in a few weeks!...I started being the 45 degree Guy with caulk as "my friend". Then I graduated to coping with the miter saw fully and the results started to be come amazing. I started to become less reliant on the need for caulk. This method brings in the saw and miter saw together. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome, Thanks for watching.
Same here 😂😂😂
Thanks for posting this video. I am actually in the process of doing baseboards and my cuts you should see. I needed this.
Good luck! I hope you found this video helpful. Thanks for watching.
After struggling with getting nice corners, your method made it really easy for me. Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Its called coping the inside corners.
Years ago watched a senior trim carpenter use the coping saw as fast as you could miter the corners.
He was running baseboard, and made it look so easy that i wondered why not just do them his way?
There is a big difference between a man who has done finish work for 40 years, and a young guy starting out.
Today im the old guy and when i cope inside corners i have a scroll saw.
You can back cut the curves easy with it.
Yes, it’s called coping, and it can be achieved in a number of fashions using a bunch of different tools including but not limited to a grinder with a flappy disc, a file a scroll saw, etc. etc. etc.
it does get faster with practice in the video it was done at a slower pace because it is an instructional video.
Thanks for watching.
Sir you are a true artist. I would have been happy with the first example. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching.
Me too. I would have just cauljed and painred it. Thats to much work. Lol
Omg!! This is sooo much simplier and easier! I am definitely going to try this and let you know!! Thanks for the tip
Glad to help, thanks for watching.
I was taught to cope inside corners of baseboard and crown from the start and immediately fell in love with the process and results
Yes, good idea. Thanks for watching.
I’ve been using a technique similar to this but this one up on mine... thanks for the video. It’s all in the details!
Glad you liked it, Thanks for watching.
Good Vid. A jig saw with a coping foot or a table saw will work much faster, same quality results with a little practice, but good to see people still using and teaching the traditional older method with the hand saw... not everyone can afford all the tools of a professional
This is just one way to cut corners, with some of the tools I had at the time, there are many other ways...I have even used a grinder with a flap wheel to make corners look good in a pinch. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing this video. I'm going to go search for your other videos.
Don't forget to subscribe, Thanks for watching
Ah, I'm in the presence of skilled carpenters. Bravo sirs. -)
Thanks for watching.
Cool trick with the miter saw! I set my coping saw up to cut on the pull stroke and I find it’s easier for me to start and control a cut that way
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
I have a huge job to do with about 50-60 corners to do... Seems like this is tedious, but will yield much better results than just cutting 45's and trying to fill with caulk. Thanks for sharing!
It is very tedious but most things that are like this are worth the extra effort if you plan to stay for awhile. You could save some time by just doing the 45's and caulk, but after a few times of this it goes quicker. Thanks for watching
Jeff Bateman We use small grinders to back bevel and cope instead of coping saws. Much quicker just takes getting used to. Just an idea if you have a huge project to do.
+Zach R yeah, I was thinking of using my oscillating tool for that very purpose... That thing has been a time saver on so many other jobs!
Protractor to find correct angles?
Yes, they work great for finding the correct angles.
I do the same now with a cordless grinder with a sanding pad on it. Its much quicker with same quality results. Good job on the copping
A grinder is another good way of coping molding in. Thanks for watching.
Thankyou for passing on the skill , of a thinking Tradesman , your young works that will one day be , Skilled Tradesman ,must love working by your side , ( well if they're smart enough to know that that have a great Teacher ,) well done !!!
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for explaining the back side cut. I have seen it done in other videos but it wasn’t as well explained and I couldn’t see as well as what you provided in the video.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
👍 absolute perfect corner, thx for sharing
Thanks for watching
I did 440 meters ( that is 1600 meters of skirting) at my home using the method which does not bother with the 3 vertical cuts on the curve. I simply used the coping saw to cut around the edge of the curved top corner. Very simple, very clean.
ausiewood Sounds good. Thanks for watching.
Mmh 🎉SASCHA 🎉😢2😢22 😂222222za2AD433 2q332w😂qaaxz2•☆🎉😢OOOOOOL 1🎉2aDWW111 I am not a fan of the by 6's done in a couple of years 1D-3v@!•☆☆÷▪︎W❤2qQZAAQaw1❤
Thanks for you video, Boss. I did my first baseboar watching you video.
Thanks for watching.
I know this video is 6 years old , But I just have to say :::::: You're F&#KING AWESOME !!! Sorry for the foul mouth but my angles suck butthole , and your method is way easier . Thank you So So SO MUCH ! You are Radicul man . and you're worth subbing to on CZcams . Thx you Sir .... For the Pro-Tips
Awesome, I’m glad to hear you were able to use the video. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Simple and to the point. Thank you!
Thanks for watching
That is very helpful! Thanks for sharing!
Glad you liked it, Thanks for watching.
Glad I found this given that I'm using yellow pine trim and can't easily hide mistakes.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks brother, I have a small project this weekend, your video helped a lot
Glad I could help
Thanks for the tutorial! Can't wait to try this this week. I've got to do it for my entire house haha
Stick with it, it will become faster.
Thanks for watching.
How did it go?
It went well haha did two floors worth of baseboarding
That's great! Awesome tip. Thank you for posting this! God bless.
Thank you for watching.
Very Nice. I'll need to do this soon. Glad I saw your video!
Thanks for watching.
This was interesting, I'm going to have to try it. I normally use a digital angle finder on the corner, then cut the two corner pieces based on that angle. I haven't been unhappy with the outcome, but will give your method a shot. Thanks
It works great and you can speed up the process by using an angle grinder with a flappy sander. The process is the same but quicker.
Thanks for watching.
My Dad showed me this years ago it is a scribe cut.No filler needed,a old school tradesman.🙂
It is the best way to make it look good and look good for a long time.
Thanks for watching.
Impressive ! Thank you for sharing . 👍👍
Thanks for watching.
Looks nice. I recently watched another video where a Dremel was used to grind down the curvey portion. I haven't personally tried this approach but it seemed to work well.
Yes, there are many different tools that can be used such as a Dremel or a grinder with a flappy disc on it. In this video I was just doing the basics to show how it can be done, there are many variations from there. Thanks for watching.
always a nicer look when done right I will use a belt sander to do my coping as it takes less time to do and you can get a nice result too
A belt sander works well, a lot of times I will use a flappy disc on a grinder. Thanks for watching.
As you get more experience you can do the hand cope cleanly and much faster in one cut starting from the top (thinnest) part of the molding. Key is to dive in confidently and keep the coping saw moving in a short/quick rhythm. I use a fine/thin blade which follows curves easily. Agree with undercutting: it allows you to slightly "crunch" the leading edge of the mating surface to the flat of the adjacent piece thusly eliminating any gap. Go around the room in a linear fashion and plan so your last piece hits a door casing square: it's a PIA to finish with a piece that needs to be coped on both ends.
Sounds like you have a slightly different method with some of the same parts. Thanks for watching.
Do double copes all the time been doing it for 40 years and haven't had any problems get a tighter fit
I used the coping saw method 40 years ago on custom homes finish work.
In my opinion the coping saw works so much faster and better than the miter saw. Doing twice the work for a cut.
The miter saw works good for the straight part removing material faster than the coping saw, then bring in the coping saw for the profile, but basically it's the same. Thanks for watching.
Thx so much for that. Ive seen it done before but yours was simpler.
It is a an easy way to do corners, Thanks for watching.
Nice little trick much appreciated although it's a bit of time consuming but still nice in my case I want to stick to 45s
With time it becomes quick and still looks great. Thanks for watching.
Miter saws adjust by degrees sometimes it's easier to just find the right angle
It's much faster to cut wood using a grinder instead of a coping saw
Thanks!! Super helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for for the tip. I have always done this with a coping saw but using the miter saw should really speed things up. Thanks
Try using a grinder with a flappy wheel sander it makes quick work of the contours. Thanks for watching.
@@funbro1 So your using an angle grinder with the disk, is this correct. Thanks
Yes an angle grinder with a sanding disc or flappy sander or sanding wheel.
@@funbro1 Thanks, take care
Good video, don't understand why so many thumbs down.
I wondered why also, but I think that everyone has their own way of doing this job and many think this takes too long based on a tutorial video, not thinking that in real time it would go much quicker. Thanks for watching.
Very nice tip, thank you.
Thanks for watching.
Awesome! Ready to fly!!!
Thanks for watching.
No matter how much glue or caulk you stuff into a 45, eventually you will see it crack and have a gap in the corner. Coping, like this, is the right way to do it. It also permits a pressure fit, where the coped baseboard is actually a smidge too long, which then later counteracts shrinkage, which would otherwise create the gap. Same gap that is impossible to avoid when doing 45s on inside corners. Coping also lets you get away with out of square corners, whether a couple of degrees more or less, without changing anything. This would have shown up as gaps in regular mitres. Very good instructional.
Thanks for the comment, and Thanks for watching.
Martin Poulsen nail the corner last agent nail the rest along the wall . Use your five-in-8one to pull the corners together before nailing. Caulk the top and it’s done. A good painter will make your work look tremendous
You are a life saver Bob! I have the 2 drawer DC224 2 drawer file cabi9net and your video hopefully will allow me to assemble and install the drawers. One issue I have is the side pieces that "click" into the "T" bracket, clicked on upside down. How can I release it from the "T" bracket to reinstall it correctly? Thank you. Pat
Good video, I will try this ....Thanks
Thanks for watching.
Thanks, i like that method!
Thanks for watching.
Well done! Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for watching
In the uk we call that scribing, if you try to mitre internal corners the boards always come open as the wood ages. Internal corners are always scribed by professionals. Also it’s best to do the scribed cut on the longer piece of wood as that piece shrinks more.
Some people here call it scribing also.
Thanks for watching.
Angle grinder with sanding disc works great too.
Yup, do that all the time. Thanks for watching.
The first piece rarely sit plumb on the wall particularly with deeper skirting so a square scribe on the second piece doesn't usually work
Seems to work pretty good this way but if not it can be adjusted.
Nice Cut - Thanks.
Thanks for watching.
Nice Job Dude!
Thanks for watching.
My dad showed me this trick today, and his cousin that has been a contractor ( who does some of the best trim I've ever seen ) for over 30 years showed him. If you take your time doing this, the seams come out really, really good.
It does take time to do it nice. Thanks for checking in.
Good video.
Thank you
This is a really good method, although a bit difficult for the beginner
With time it will speed up and look better. Thanks for watching
practice with the the coping saw, after awhile it will go where you want it to....granted some aptitude is required
Used a reverberating saw . Sucked....
Thank You. My seams look much better!
Thanks for watching
Good job 👍🏻
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video !!!!!!!!!!
You bet!
Thanks ....good refresher
Thanks for watching.
U are a genius 😁❤👌🙏🙌👍👏👏👏
Thanks for watching
GREAT IDEA !!!
Thanks for watching
WWAAWW!!! EXCELENTE !!! GRACIAS !!!👋🇲🇽
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. One question. Can you cut one piece so that it's straight in to the corner and only mitre/cope the adjoining piece?
Yes, Definitely. Thanks for the question.
Kelsey Leite thats what he did
Absolutely. square and tight and cope the next piece. Always work right to left so your copes are are on the right. left hand copes are a bitch for right handed people.
Kelsey Leite yes
Yep, just like the video showed
Great video
Thanks for watching.
Perfecto Mando!!!
Thanks for watching.
I live in an old house, and when I removed the old baseboards to replace them, they had these odd looking fishhook cuts at the end. I couldn't understand why. This is it. Thanks for the help.
That's awesome. Thanks for watching.
Use a flap disk on grinder instead of coping saw.. takes seconds.. same result
I have used a belt sander, flap disk, grinder and yeah they work well but this is an instructional video so the intention was to show the concept with the correct tools. Thanks for your input.
Aaaaaa CHOO!
+Jonny rotten
I am not a finish carpenter but I will say doing it with a saw at first is better so that you can gain the skills needed.
bighand69
Not necessary to gain coping skills if you're gonna use the grinder just the understanding
There are skills to learn in either method. I think the Flap wheel works great for the more decorative trim. I use a dremel with the grinder and like the results and time it takes. I tend to get rammy with the hand saws.
Great video tho..
Great technique
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching.
In the UK we never mitre internal corners, even if they are a perfect 45 degree angle. The ease of fitting and creating the perfect joint is so much easier when scribing with a coping saw.
As you said, even in new build the corners are never a true 45.
The coping saw is designed so you can follow a mouldings profile, much like a band saw. I tend to cut the straight line on a mitre saw, or with a hand saw, then use the coping saw to follow the profile of the board.
There is no need to stop and start cutting. With practice you will cut these profiles is a matter of seconds.
As a matter of fact I DO know how to use a coping saw just for your information. As stated in the video there are hardly ever any corners (outside or inside) that are a true 45 degree. I was hoping that people would understand the reason for cutting the 45, but maybe I did not make this clear. When you cut a 45 on the miter saw you are left with a line that can be used as a guide to cope the correct contour of the moulding. I could have sworn I covered it in the video, (check it out at 2:15) something like I used a pencil to show (for the camera and viewers) where the contour of the moulding is. As for cutting the straight line using a hand saw is fine but I find the miter saw will give a much better cut. Keep practicing with the miter saw and you may master it. I hope this video was a help to you. Thanks for watching.
I understood you perfectly well! Been using that method all week and it has been working great for me. Thanks again.
I think lee is a bit of a knob. your method is the superior one.
No its not! You forget about the eye
If the base is simple I agree mate. But if the base has multiple detail that can be time consuming
congratulations.... you make simple scribing look very complicated...
Congratulations your comment proves you have not tried it yet. Thanks for watching.
Excelente, gracias
Thanks for watching.
Good job 👍
Thanks for watching.
I use that technique but I use caulk where baseboards meets at the corner before nailing so there is no cracks in the future
It is always nice to add a little caulking to the joint, it gives it a little flexibility for contraction and expansion. Thanks for watching.
Thanks great one
Thanks for watching.
That.. was Fantastic. :)
How smart?!
Thanks for watching.
I usually cope it with Jigsaw. I take of the guide and works like a charm.
Sounds good, Thanks for watching.
As a beginner I’d just caulk it and move on this is some personal work to me never at a customer house lol
I guess that is one way of doing it. Thanks for watching
who cares
Darren Frick - Shut up! You hurt?
good info cool vid
Thanks!
Pretty good!!!
Thanks for watching.
Fill with caulk for white other bare wood this would work great!!! :)
Either one works fine with this method. Thanks for watching.
Now I understand where to use this technique. Thanks for the comment. I just kept wondering why take up so much time when caulk would do the job.
Perfect Thanks Bob. Now can the same thing be done on outside corners? Thanks In Advance. 🤝. And if not how would you correct that?
Outside corners are better handled with just doing a miter cut. Use a piece of scrap to get the exact angle then cut your regular piece before nailing it on. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Quedó muy prolijo.
Gracias por ver
You would be there for a week trimming out a house,no corners are perfect. What I do to make my 45 a nice tight fit is use a popsicle stick behind one side. It usually makes up the difference for the imperfection. Then a small bead of DAP to seal the deal.
Feel free to read through previous comment, you will find my reply to your comment is the same as all the others. Thanks for checking in.
Buen trabajo amigo
Thanks for watching.
It does matter which side you cut straight versus cope. Generally easier to cut the longest piece straight and then cope the shorter piece. Other situations as well that might dictate one piece with a straight cut on both ends and then cope two shorter sections into it.
No, it doesn’t matter. You can cope either side. Thanks for watching.
You can eat dog poop while coping if you want to. But why would a person try to cope an eight foot trim piece when it would be easier to cut that flat and then cope the shorter two or three foot piece? Or if you had a small alcove; try to cope both ends of one piece? Much easier to cut the internal piece flat and then cope the shorter legs leading into the alcove.
Why would you eat dog poop at alley alone while putting baseboards in? Lol Thanks for watching.
What’s the style or name of that particular base that you are using? That’s what I have existing in my place, but I have had trouble trying to locate it. Thanks. Great Job!
It is called Colonial style finger-jointed pine. Hope this helps, Thanks for watching.
Do you by chance remember what the name of the paint was that you used on this project?, and what brand?..its really nice...
I remember the brand was Porter Paint but I do not remember the color. Sorry. Thanks for watching.
I just back cut close with copping saw and take a sharp utility knife to clean the edges a lot quicker, on pine anyways.
That's one way i guess but the quicker part might be debatable and then there is the final result. Anyways thanks for the view.
Genius!!!!
Thanks for watching.
When the corner is that tight can you just paint it or would you still recommend caulking
You could just paint it and the paint would
cover very well. I like to use caulking it allows for any flex. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Great, job but how much did you change for linear ft ????
In this case it was part of a job and built in. Thanks for watching.
Nice. Subbed
Thanks for watching.
How would you go about coping 22.5 inside corners? Sorry for asking. I just dont like how my corners come out and i like for my base to look really good
You can use the same method and adjust your cuts. Thanks for watching.
And this is just to connect 2 baseboards... I tried and it's really tough to make the covering end follow the lines of the second one. I 'd say one needs at least a few days of high precision artful wood cutting for training.
It takes a little practice and there are other ways to do this type of job. This video is just to show the basics...not the fastest or most popular. Thanks for watching.
I had a contractor do this in my house. I made him take it back up and re do it correctly
Always good to do it right the first time.
Thanks for watching.