I bought 5 or 6 of the Proto 2000 locos, and had trouble with all of them! It turned out that they all had cracked Adele, and almost stopped working. I found a video on CZcams that explained how to fix the problem, by purchasing axels from Athearn that were the same as the Lifelike models. I changed all of them and they run much better now. They DO have great detail!!
27:10 Master is to Genesis; Silver just denotes DCC Ready and Gold is DCC Sound. As a budget modeler myself, I largely gravitate towards less expensive rolling stock like Scaletrains Operator and Walthers Mainline while still rostering a small fleet of higher end Atlas Master and Scaletrains Rivet Counter locos. Nice vid, thanks for this!
I own multiple AHM/Rivarossi locomotives and all of them run great. The only problem I’ve ever had with them is bad motor brushes, which are easy to replace. All they need is some TLC and they’ll run great out of the box.
And specific models especially if it is a model not currently available on the market. Diesels and USRA steam engines? Complete waste of money going AHM when there are already tons of newer, improved versions readily available.
Athearn blue box engines I got back in the mid 80's are still running today. They are absolutely the best designed engines especially the ones that have flywheels. I just hope my 4 Atlas engines run as well as my old Athearn ones. I just cannot imagine why the fascination with Rapido, BLI and ScaleTrains is so great. For those overpriced hunks of plastic you pay for, you could have some very nice brass locomotives which don't break from handling and parts fall off like those plastic ones. Cheers - TN
I once bought a Bachmann gp7 for $50. That was the least I ever paid for a dcc equipped engine. It was really good. I custom painted it into CSX colors, and replaced its original decoder with a TCS t4-led decoder. The decoder itself cost me around $25, bringing the total cost of the model around $75. I also have three Proto 2000s, four Atlas models of varying years, several Walthers models, and many many Bachmann models, ranging from their ancient 0-6-0s to their brand new J3a Hudson.
I still have my first Athearn blue box Conrail SD40-2 that my parents got me for Christmas back in 1985 or 1986 when I was probably 14 or 15 years old and 35 years later I'm still running it. I did replace the motor since it died, replaced the noisy worm drive with the newer driveshafts, and newer Genesis style wheels.
I agree about AHM/Tyco diesels or their popular steam models since they are a dime a dozen and common but for those who like steam like me, AHM is the only option since other companies have not bothered to bring many steam models back (B&O Big Six 2-10-2, Santa Fe Blue Goose and other non-Dreyfuss streamliners, C&O specific 4-6-2/2-8-2/4-6-4 non-streamlined, Southern 4-6-2 Ps4 Crescent Pacific). Then you have the RF&P's Berkshire that is so rare they didn't even bother to make it in brass so you have no choice but to go AHM. The only other option is the extremely expensive brass route for which I mentioned previously like the RF&P Berk was never made in brass opening up another can of worms trying to get brass to run right since it is hit or miss as well.
Would love to see an in depth video of the dash 9. I have a couple in the works along with an ac4400. Added detail parts, grills and might even attempt rolling bearings.
I recently bought two Walther’s Trainline GP15-1 locomotives new from Walther’s for about $70 each. They are not DCC obviously, but they are surprisingly well detailed. I can place $20 digitraxx decoders in them if I want DCC locomotives and they would still be under $100.
I bought a few of the Bachmann American (1860’s) style locos. They’re DCC ready. They’re really beautiful models. Some run better than others even after a break in period. I think a little add weight would solve that problem. I also bought the Bachmann era appropriate Silver Series rolling stock. All of the locos run way better pulling a train. I also bought a Bachmann red box F3 loco. I put it on my layout (DC) it ran intermittently then stopped running. The sound and lights work, but it won’t move. Needless to say I’m disappointed in the F3. I’ve been meaning to contact Bachmann to send it in for repair.
Only track I use is either Micro Engineering or Atlas nickel silver flex track on top of cork road bed. I paint the road bed neutral grey to mimic ballast. I also paint my track before laying it. After I get it like I want, then I will ballast the track. I use either Atlas or Shinohara switches and only code 100. It's always worked in the past so why change in mid stream. I use a MRC Tech 7 power pack and am making another one from a computer laptop supply with a PWM motor controller. Absolutely NO Bachmann here as I've had to junk too many Bachmann locomotives due to cracked gears. Think I'll be buying brass from now on. I started collecting back in the mid 80's so yes, I own a lot of "crap" as you call it. AHM, Tyco & Mehano, LifeLike and Mantua that are actually still running. I changed all the magnets on all my open frame (Pittman) motors to neodymium (rare earth) magnets and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and performance. Now they will "creep" around the tracks at you guys' DCC speed step 1. I've got at least 3 Mantua Pacific's (4-6-2) that I stripped and repainted for the Central of Georgia RR. Cheers from eastern TN
i have a few tyco and bachmann trains and they run good to great all you have to do is some maintenance to keep them running good some i have had since the 80s others i bought off ebay and fixed up they are easy to fix
I started my career in the hobby last week and got a 1980s athearn F7a with a northern pacific livery as well as 12 rolling stock and 2 cabooses and track all for free from a friend and after seeing how expensive most stuff is I think I got a lucky start XD
Interestingly (as of a couple of years ago), Dynatrol (an old-school analog command control system originally made by Power Systems Inc.) is still around.
Athearn all the way, I have Engines and rolling stock that are 35-50 years old and run flawlessly, they make for lack of detail with durability and ease of repair and maint. AHM are just fine when you know what you are doing as a Model railroad Mechanic, they require complete disassembly and proper lube with a bit of tweaking and they will run for decades. The newer AHM and Mehano units using the Athearn style drives and motors are great and worth looking into but the older vertical engine worm gear designs should be avoided by novices. Once you know what you're doing AHM is easy peezy. Atlas, Walthers are a great choice and run very well, they get a little pricey so for a budget you can try the older models that can still be upgraded if you decide to. Athearn Walthers and Atlas are my 3 go to's when browsing the Web or train shows as both run every time and are easy and cheap to maintain. Kato are great runners, dang near bullet proof like Athearn and if you can get a good deal on one I'd say grab it! Cant go wrong with Kato nad Athearn on your layouts. 3 stay aways pre Proto Spectrum era are Tyco, Bachmann and Lifelike. By the 2000s Bachmann and Lifelike were far better and more reliable especially after adopting the Athearn Motor/Drive designs. Pre 2000 is for collectors only and the pancake drives from Lifelike and Bachmann were the worst, Tyco power Torque units while not the greatest are far easier to work on and maintain and run/pull better than anything Bachmann and Lifelike set engines could ever hope to do. Great video!
I had a decent collection of Athearn blue box locos and rolling stock which I bought new in the late 1980s and very early1990s (before DCC became big). For a family with _some_ disposable income they were a nice balance between good looking and solid performing. Much better than the Bachman, Life Like and Tyco of the time. I think the most we ever paid for a loco was about $80 for an SD-40-2 in SPSF "Kodachrome" scheme. I still have that in its box somewhere... I sold off most of my stuff 20 years ago but kept the pieces which meant the most to me. Also believe I have a Bachman Spectrum Amtrak F-40-PH.
I'm still buying spectrum locomotives, by the year's the price was incremented, I guess is normal, but still on affordable price, comparing to top products, and have certain details for the budget
Hello Matt, I am glad you made this video but I have to ask from my own personal experience. I first DCC& Sound loco was a Walthers Mainline ES44AC in the Citirail livery that I bought new at a train show. Initially I didn't realize that Walthers mainline locomotive are less detailed, and I realized soon not long after buying it that something felt off about it, as it was less detailed. I did learn that detail kits for the grab irons existed, but I realized it would be more work and frustration to paint, install them along with adding lighted numberboards (not included on Walthers Mainline locos) would only add more frustration and cost that I could end up messing it up. I would later end up selling it, and am now waiting for the long awaited next run of Intermountain Citirail version to come out. I have taken to the approach of waiting to save for one well detailed model, rather then two less detailed ones, as I know I will not be satisfied with them for long, as I could save for the better one to avoid having to settle for less. Still, I do buy less expensive ones to practice adding detail, so there is that. What do you say Matt. Do wish to see what you have to say.
Nice video. First time watching your channel. I am new to the Proto 2000 HO trains. Are the wheel gauges and flanges compatible with regular HO code 83 track and turnouts? (I have mostly ME code 83 turnouts and also a few other brands). Thanks and super well done video... Phil NYC Area (Jersey Shore)
I have a phobia of steam trains cuz my first loco was a hornby flying scotsman and one of the coupling rods bent, when i dissasembled it to fix it i broke one of the pickups and never fixed it, its like…. In pieces in its box now lol
To be honest the bachmann dynamis is so much easier to use compared to the digitrax zephyr only drawback was the inferred system other then that programing etc is way better then the zephyr
Ahm is crap??? hmm. i disagree to a point. Not all were crap.Occasionally ,yes you'd come across a real lemon...however I myself have several locomotives and diesels from ahm and rivorossi ,and they run just fine. If anything, the absolute worst of them all were trains made by the company called COX. Their motors tended to burn out after a few weeks of use. The rolling stock was alright though.I agree about Tyco. Their god awful pancake motors....utter garbage. I have 6 and i replaced their motors with self powered Stanton motor trucks from Northwest Shortline.
Ahh yes the usual incompetent snob who thinks Rivarossi/AHM is trash. For those who know what they're doing, present company excluded, Rivarossi engines can be made to run very well with proper maintenance. In addition their later offerings have significantly upgraded drives. Their tooling holds up well, especially for steam engines, and if you know how to work on your engines, they will never fail you. If you expect to pick one up off the shelf and have it run like new you will be sorely disappointed. That being said, I'm writing this to someone who DCC'd a 90's bachmann so this is likely falling on deaf ears anyway.
I can dig it. I have the older ahm/rivarossi (pizza cutter flange) big boy and cab forward. Both were remotored and received esu v5 decoders with ifone speakers. They are both good runners. I also have a red box cab forward converted to dcc. Runs smooth as ever. A lot of people shun the older lower end stuff. I have no issues picking it up and working on them. I'd say 90% of my fleet is blue box converted to dcc and led lights.
This video is two years old, I'm seeing it for the 1st time. I never seen track like that. I like to use that type of track with my regular tracks. I paused this video got a close up of the clamp on that track, and I see I should be able to cut that plastic piece off, and tie it to my layout. Have you ever hooked that track to regular track? P.S. I started this comment at the beginning of this video. It wasn't until you arrive at Bachman I was done. This video is old..... Bachman today (2023) is pure junk. Nobody uses this item it's crap. The engine you showed there's no way I'd put it near my layout. Bachman is for kids who just want a train set, cheaply made, no details, plastic wheels, really? Junk, pure, junk Nuff Said.
Great video!
Love the lincoln log loads 👍
I bought 5 or 6 of the Proto 2000 locos, and had trouble with all of them! It turned out that they all had cracked Adele, and almost stopped working. I found a video on CZcams that explained how to fix the problem, by purchasing axels from Athearn that were the same as the Lifelike models. I changed all of them and they run much better now. They DO have great detail!!
My first Ho scale loco was an Athearn Blue box Gp35 SP. Bought early 80's and still runs! ☕🍻👍
27:10 Master is to Genesis; Silver just denotes DCC Ready and Gold is DCC Sound.
As a budget modeler myself, I largely gravitate towards less expensive rolling stock like Scaletrains Operator and Walthers Mainline while still rostering a small fleet of higher end Atlas Master and Scaletrains Rivet Counter locos. Nice vid, thanks for this!
I own multiple AHM/Rivarossi locomotives and all of them run great. The only problem I’ve ever had with them is bad motor brushes, which are easy to replace. All they need is some TLC and they’ll run great out of the box.
Ahm is not bad you just have to buy the right years of it
And specific models especially if it is a model not currently available on the market. Diesels and USRA steam engines? Complete waste of money going AHM when there are already tons of newer, improved versions readily available.
Athearn blue box engines I got back in the mid 80's are still running today. They are absolutely the best designed engines especially the ones that have flywheels. I just hope my 4 Atlas engines run as well as my old Athearn ones. I just cannot imagine why the fascination with Rapido, BLI and ScaleTrains is so great. For those overpriced hunks of plastic you pay for, you could have some very nice brass locomotives which don't break from handling and parts fall off like those plastic ones. Cheers - TN
I once bought a Bachmann gp7 for $50. That was the least I ever paid for a dcc equipped engine. It was really good. I custom painted it into CSX colors, and replaced its original decoder with a TCS t4-led decoder. The decoder itself cost me around $25, bringing the total cost of the model around $75. I also have three Proto 2000s, four Atlas models of varying years, several Walthers models, and many many Bachmann models, ranging from their ancient 0-6-0s to their brand new J3a Hudson.
I still have my first Athearn blue box Conrail SD40-2 that my parents got me for Christmas back in 1985 or 1986 when I was probably 14 or 15 years old and 35 years later I'm still running it. I did replace the motor since it died, replaced the noisy worm drive with the newer driveshafts, and newer Genesis style wheels.
Great vid buddy! Great info! Thanks!!
I agree about AHM/Tyco diesels or their popular steam models since they are a dime a dozen and common but for those who like steam like me, AHM is the only option since other companies have not bothered to bring many steam models back (B&O Big Six 2-10-2, Santa Fe Blue Goose and other non-Dreyfuss streamliners, C&O specific 4-6-2/2-8-2/4-6-4 non-streamlined, Southern 4-6-2 Ps4 Crescent Pacific). Then you have the RF&P's Berkshire that is so rare they didn't even bother to make it in brass so you have no choice but to go AHM.
The only other option is the extremely expensive brass route for which I mentioned previously like the RF&P Berk was never made in brass opening up another can of worms trying to get brass to run right since it is hit or miss as well.
Would love to see an in depth video of the dash 9. I have a couple in the works along with an ac4400. Added detail parts, grills and might even attempt rolling bearings.
I recently bought two Walther’s Trainline GP15-1 locomotives new from Walther’s for about $70 each. They are not DCC obviously, but they are surprisingly well detailed. I can place $20 digitraxx decoders in them if I want DCC locomotives and they would still be under $100.
I bought a few of the Bachmann American (1860’s) style locos. They’re DCC ready. They’re really beautiful models. Some run better than others even after a break in period. I think a little add weight would solve that problem. I also bought the Bachmann era appropriate Silver Series rolling stock. All of the locos run way better pulling a train.
I also bought a Bachmann red box F3 loco. I put it on my layout (DC) it ran intermittently then stopped running. The sound and lights work, but it won’t move. Needless to say I’m disappointed in the F3. I’ve been meaning to contact Bachmann to send it in for repair.
Athearn and KAT0 is my go to.
I’m switching from O to HO and this will definitely help
Only track I use is either Micro Engineering or Atlas nickel silver flex track on top of cork road bed. I paint the road bed neutral grey to mimic ballast. I also paint my track before laying it. After I get it like I want, then I will ballast the track. I use either Atlas or Shinohara switches and only code 100. It's always worked in the past so why change in mid stream. I use a MRC Tech 7 power pack and am making another one from a computer laptop supply with a PWM motor controller. Absolutely NO Bachmann here as I've had to junk too many Bachmann locomotives due to cracked gears. Think I'll be buying brass from now on. I started collecting back in the mid 80's so yes, I own a lot of "crap" as you call it. AHM, Tyco & Mehano, LifeLike and Mantua that are actually still running. I changed all the magnets on all my open frame (Pittman) motors to neodymium (rare earth) magnets and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and performance. Now they will "creep" around the tracks at you guys' DCC speed step 1. I've got at least 3 Mantua Pacific's (4-6-2) that I stripped and repainted for the Central of Georgia RR. Cheers from eastern TN
i have a few tyco and bachmann trains and they run good to great all you have to do is some maintenance to keep them running good some i have had since the 80s others i bought off ebay and fixed up they are easy to fix
im building scenic ridge kit with kato track, working well for me and i recently ballasred most of it, looks great with kato ballast imo
I started my career in the hobby last week and got a 1980s athearn F7a with a northern pacific livery as well as 12 rolling stock and 2 cabooses and track all for free from a friend and after seeing how expensive most stuff is I think I got a lucky start XD
Interestingly (as of a couple of years ago), Dynatrol (an old-school analog command control system originally made by Power Systems Inc.) is still around.
Athearn all the way, I have Engines and rolling stock that are 35-50 years old and run flawlessly, they make for lack of detail with durability and ease of repair and maint. AHM are just fine when you know what you are doing as a Model railroad Mechanic, they require complete disassembly and proper lube with a bit of tweaking and they will run for decades. The newer AHM and Mehano units using the Athearn style drives and motors are great and worth looking into but the older vertical engine worm gear designs should be avoided by novices. Once you know what you're doing AHM is easy peezy. Atlas, Walthers are a great choice and run very well, they get a little pricey so for a budget you can try the older models that can still be upgraded if you decide to. Athearn Walthers and Atlas are my 3 go to's when browsing the Web or train shows as both run every time and are easy and cheap to maintain. Kato are great runners, dang near bullet proof like Athearn and if you can get a good deal on one I'd say grab it! Cant go wrong with Kato nad Athearn on your layouts.
3 stay aways pre Proto Spectrum era are Tyco, Bachmann and Lifelike. By the 2000s Bachmann and Lifelike were far better and more reliable especially after adopting the Athearn Motor/Drive designs. Pre 2000 is for collectors only and the pancake drives from Lifelike and Bachmann were the worst, Tyco power Torque units while not the greatest are far easier to work on and maintain and run/pull better than anything Bachmann and Lifelike set engines could ever hope to do.
Great video!
I had a decent collection of Athearn blue box locos and rolling stock which I bought new in the late 1980s and very early1990s (before DCC became big). For a family with _some_ disposable income they were a nice balance between good looking and solid performing. Much better than the Bachman, Life Like and Tyco of the time. I think the most we ever paid for a loco was about $80 for an SD-40-2 in SPSF "Kodachrome" scheme. I still have that in its box somewhere... I sold off most of my stuff 20 years ago but kept the pieces which meant the most to me. Also believe I have a Bachman Spectrum Amtrak F-40-PH.
I'm still buying spectrum locomotives, by the year's the price was incremented, I guess is normal, but still on affordable price, comparing to top products, and have certain details for the budget
Hello Matt, I am glad you made this video but I have to ask from my own personal experience. I first DCC& Sound loco was a Walthers Mainline ES44AC in the Citirail livery that I bought new at a train show. Initially I didn't realize that Walthers mainline locomotive are less detailed, and I realized soon not long after buying it that something felt off about it, as it was less detailed.
I did learn that detail kits for the grab irons existed, but I realized it would be more work and frustration to paint, install them along with adding lighted numberboards (not included on Walthers Mainline locos) would only add more frustration and cost that I could end up messing it up. I would later end up selling it, and am now waiting for the long awaited next run of Intermountain Citirail version to come out.
I have taken to the approach of waiting to save for one well detailed model, rather then two less detailed ones, as I know I will not be satisfied with them for long, as I could save for the better one to avoid having to settle for less. Still, I do buy less expensive ones to practice adding detail, so there is that.
What do you say Matt. Do wish to see what you have to say.
I have a walthers mainline es44 Im gathering the details for...not sure when Ill actually get to it. So many projects happening right now
My second (first HO) loco (shippin to me) is the walthers trainline gp15-1, its like $70 and from what ive seen is pretty good
I see you got Nickel Plate Road 765 or 759 nice choice last year Christmas I got Pere Marquette 1225 from bachmann
765, has TCS wow in it, never really ran it, maybe ill do a vid on it?
Tyco was the Ford Pinto of the time.
I had an Athrean "Blue Box" GP38 in NS scheme. I bought it back in 1989. Unfortunately, I end up scraping it. It was in pretty good condition.
Dude, Come on!!!! NCE systems are some of the best out there!!
Old junk
My tip is go to a train show buy a box of bachmann track and engines can go as low as $30
I use Atlas true track I've found it's cheaper than bachmann
Nice video. First time watching your channel.
I am new to the Proto 2000 HO trains. Are the wheel gauges and flanges compatible with regular HO code 83 track and turnouts? (I have mostly ME code 83 turnouts and also a few other brands). Thanks and super well done video...
Phil
NYC Area (Jersey Shore)
Code 83 kato unitrack is what I run and everything I have runs nicely on it
I have a phobia of steam trains cuz my first loco was a hornby flying scotsman and one of the coupling rods bent, when i dissasembled it to fix it i broke one of the pickups and never fixed it, its like…. In pieces in its box now lol
I loves the 80s trains ho scale models and 70s no problems
When you still can't afford any of them😢
eBay has more older diesel locos for less
To be honest the bachmann dynamis is so much easier to use compared to the digitrax zephyr only drawback was the inferred system other then that programing etc is way better then the zephyr
The 1994 chessie I think was made in Yugoslavia
Yup
@@RodimusPrime hi
Tyco rolling stock from the 70s are good. Buy them. They last FOREVER
How have the bli sharknoses been? My A unit keeps pulling 2 amps for some reason.
One of the very best locos i have, prob a bad decoder sounds like
@@RodimusPrime Okay thanks
you do realise your Bachmann GP-18 is a mehano / AHM loco
I do
bachmann.needs.to.do.a.PRR.E44.electric.
I go to flea market to buy models trains I buy 100 bucks at time cheap
Ahm is crap??? hmm. i disagree to a point. Not all were crap.Occasionally ,yes you'd come across a real lemon...however I myself have several locomotives and diesels from ahm and rivorossi ,and they run just fine. If anything, the absolute worst of them all were trains made by the company called COX. Their motors tended to burn out after a few weeks of use. The rolling stock was alright though.I agree about Tyco. Their god awful pancake motors....utter garbage. I have 6 and i replaced their motors with self powered Stanton motor trucks from Northwest Shortline.
Sweet high nose
Ahh yes the usual incompetent snob who thinks Rivarossi/AHM is trash. For those who know what they're doing, present company excluded, Rivarossi engines can be made to run very well with proper maintenance. In addition their later offerings have significantly upgraded drives. Their tooling holds up well, especially for steam engines, and if you know how to work on your engines, they will never fail you. If you expect to pick one up off the shelf and have it run like new you will be sorely disappointed. That being said, I'm writing this to someone who DCC'd a 90's bachmann so this is likely falling on deaf ears anyway.
I can dig it. I have the older ahm/rivarossi (pizza cutter flange) big boy and cab forward. Both were remotored and received esu v5 decoders with ifone speakers. They are both good runners. I also have a red box cab forward converted to dcc. Runs smooth as ever. A lot of people shun the older lower end stuff. I have no issues picking it up and working on them. I'd say 90% of my fleet is blue box converted to dcc and led lights.
This video is two years old, I'm seeing it for the 1st time. I never seen track like that. I like to use that type of track with my regular tracks. I paused this video got a close up of the clamp on that track, and I see I should be able to cut that plastic piece off, and tie it to my layout. Have you ever hooked that track to regular track?
P.S. I started this comment at the beginning of this video. It wasn't until you arrive at Bachman I was done. This video is old.....
Bachman today (2023) is pure junk. Nobody uses this item it's crap. The engine you showed there's no way I'd put it near my layout. Bachman is for kids who just want a train set, cheaply made, no details, plastic wheels, really? Junk, pure, junk Nuff Said.