How to Replace Water Damaged Window Sill and Trim
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- čas přidán 25. 05. 2023
- In this video, I fix my rotted wood window sill and trim. Parts of the wood were so saturated with water that they felt like a sponge so I decided to change out all four pieces. I wanted to make sure that this window was water proofed as much as possible so I added a few extra things. To the top I added a rain cap then extra caulking and Flex Tape to seal the window.
Watch some other rot repair videos here-
• Patching Rotted Water ...
• Replacing Rotted Wood ...
• Fixing Rotted Sill Pla...
• Basement Bulkhead Door...
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Videos produced by The Fixer are provided for informational purposes only. All material provided within this video is for informational, educational, & entertainment purposes only. Some of these projects, materials, and techniques may not be appropriate for all ages or skill levels. Please use all safety precautions while following any instructions or concepts provided by this video. Viewers must be aware that by doing projects on their homes they are doing it at their own risk and The Fixer cannot be held liable if they cause any damage to their homes. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to educate themselves on their local codes and regulations before undertaking any sort of project. Always have safety in mind and have fun! - Jak na to + styl
whoever is behind the camera is doing an excellent job, they anticipate what your audience needs to see and show it accordingly.
It's called editing.
I've seen better
@@mikekreen9336
It's still great camera work though. Many camera operators who are doing the actual recording seem to concentrate on just showing the CZcamsr's face instead of showing us the actual work that's being done.
@@Stringbean421 what do you mean by, "It's still great camera work though".??? I never once said it wasn't as I was agreeing with the comment of whoever is behind the camera is doing an excellent job. Only mentioning that during the editing process, when using a 4K camera or higher, you can easily make your sequence a 1080 project and post zoom all of your edits.
@@mikekreen9336
You mentioned 'Editing' which is nothing to do with the camera person at the time of filming. Editing is done post production.
I am a professional engineer specializing in forensic engineering for over 30 years. Among other engineering specialties, my practice includes moisture intrusion and resulting damage to the substrate. First, I observed that you correctly diagnosed the problem: water intruding at the head of the window because it lacked flashing to direct water out of the wall. I also observed that the base of the trim along the jamb was sealed. This holds trapped water and rots the trim and the substrate. Seal the sides and the top but not the bottom. I observed that you correctly sealed the substrate (sheathing) with waterproof tape. The greatest problem I observed was the absence of a moisture barrier (Grade D building paper or house wrap, e.g. Tyvek), not a vapor barrier, beneath the shingled siding. Remember that all veneers (siding, shingles like your house has, brick, stucco) leak. Attempts to prevent moisture intrusion by keeping water out of the wall is called the barrier method. As a moisture protection system, it doesn't work. The trick is to create a drainage plane that will intercept the water and carry it to a location where it can drain out. Incidentally, this is required by code. I advise folks that it is not the water you keep out of the wall; it's the water you get out of the wall. I hope this helps and I hope you have successfully solved your water intrusion problem.
Big genius over here everyone ☝️
Nice Job, only recommendation I would have, coming from a window install/weather barrier exterior guy, is that the bottom flange/sill of a window should practically never be caulked or taped shut, in fact it's highly recommended to push a few horseshoe shims up under the flange to leave a drain space. On this sort of fix, your best bet without pulling the windows entirely is to at least try to slip that tape up underneath the bottom flange, and then tape the top and sides, that way you also don't end up with an exposed backwards lap/ horizontal extrusion like you have with the bottom tape, which is also a big no-no, even with most real weather barrier systems' tape, because when the glue ages, or if it's not fully adhered, water WILL get behind it. I highly recommend that people not take lightly the process of doing your windows right, because done wrong, water or moisture will 100% be either seeping into your house from around the window, or sitting rotting out your sill. I was doing this work in Washington state, so yeah let's just say I seen some rain a time or two.
Whoa!
Thank you for these comments, as I agree it would be an improvement. I was watching this at the 16:30 mark and had the exact same thoughts about it being better to have either an extra piece of tape behind the window edge and over his main tape barrier, or have the single bottom tape barrier go behind the bottom edge of the window. Probably would need to pry that edge out a tiny bit to achieve this. Overall, this appears to be a nice explanation and process he is using here.
Thank you for saying this! I would have taken out the whole sill too.
So I fully understand, if using the tape, it should tuck under the lip of the window, correct? He puts it over and that cand lead to water going back in or just staying?
@@lucaskennedy1799 it WILL lead to water staying inside the window if there is ANY moisture or water that gets in, which can happen easily if there is any small hole or crack, water will find its way in, and the water will sit and rot the window sill, or maybe even overflow back inside your house into the drywall if there is no water backstop. The bottom of the outside of the window should be left open, usually just put shims under and screw the flange down, but inside the house, the bottom of the window should be fully caulked and sealed.
*Remember back in the day when High Schools taught a little thing called "Industrial Arts"? Learning how to do this kind of work was part of your education. Today, people rely on CZcams Videos. We live in a weird world*
*This was a good video. Concise & Informative...Thanks* 🔥
Agree, it is a shame kid these days don't get that education.
This is really helpful and validating about how darn long these "little" jobs take.
I have a friend with windows in about the same or worse shape and his house is crumbly old stucco. He knows I do carpentry and offered me $50 a window for repairs. I told him no thanks.
I always get a kick out of being told how long this little job will take!
Both you and the camera person are professionals. No cutting corners for you. You do top quality work that could be easily trusted. A rare thing these days.
yea back in the 40's those youtubers did a great job
28:55 that hole really should have been pre-drilled. The screw threads are biting into the sill more than they are pulling into the plywood behind it. The general rule is, you drill or nail from the smaller timber into the larger timber, but since you cannot in this case, it's even more important to pre-drill.
You know todays carpenters would definitely not take the time to make that drip groove. 😃
Good job man.
I’m a fixer too. I’ve had a handyman business for 10’years now. I have to do all kinds of different stuff for people. It’s insane all the stuff I need to know how to do. And to do it correctly.
hi, how much does it cost - material wise to repair the window sill?
@@christineburgess-marrell1792 hi just the wood? Probably like 20
bucks. That’s in California
Very professional job, couple of fun facts, when you dull the point of your nails it’s called brad your nails, and the groove on bottom of sill is called a quirk
😮🤯 very cool! Thanks for sharing!
Im british and the groove is known as carpilary groove and a brad is the small nails without a head funny how we are differnt across the pond.
@@gerrynicol3951loop.
😊
Nice job, enjoy time, it was easy to watch
I am sitting in awe of your craftsmanship 😊❤❤ 46:05
First time watcher. You have great delivery and explanations without all the unnecessary chit chat. Love how you talk through what you are doing and why as you move through the project. Excellent videography as well. I may have a little confidence now to fix some of my own dry rot. Will check out your other vids as well. Nice job.
Thank you so much!
I do appreciate your distinction of working with a table saw and circ saw when alone. Many/most of us will be working alone.
Great job!
If you do any more windows, leave a gap from the bottom of the shingles and the drip cap. This way water won't wick up behind the shakes. I had to redo a couple of mine because they were touching and wicking water up behind the shakes in heavy rains - fortunately I saw it before any permanent damage was done.
More like, you need to do all the windows..
Excellent job.
hi, do you men do not puch the cap all the way in? after this video i going to do my 14 windows..
@@bel2665yes… the water will wick up behind there. A larger gap will help the water fall away. Any situation like this should have a gap, but with wood siding, AND end grain, it’s extra necessary. Hopefully the flex tape holds, and he will only have to replace that little top strip of shakes above the window. There are better brands of tape with adhesive that lasts longer, and generally it is pushed down with a hard rubber roller. Regarding the water gap… if you remember back in school the water molecule has a positive charge on one side and negative on the other, like a Lego. This allows water to hold onto itself, and it will create layers of molecules called water films. This works with layers over layers UNTIL the weight of the water is too much and the water falls away (aka water drips). If the water has something hard to cling to on both sides and that gap is narrow, then the number of water films needed to fill the gap is lower, and the weight of the films is never enough to drip. 😉
It's so satisfying watching you chisel all that stuff off. Lol. Good video. Informative
This was a no joke fix it. Nice job. Someone will come along in 100 years and think, someone was not messing around with this repair.
That's funny that repair is not going to last a 100 years
Nice job and very helpful. One criticism I would make is that I frequently see people thinking that they are going to seal wood up to make it water proof and that’s simply not practically possible. The biggest thing is to have way for the water to get out so that the wood dries out, and water always has an “easy” escape route and a harder ingress route. The best thing you did on the project was install the drip cap and then the plastic moisture barrier all of which is designed to move the water away from penetrating the house. Painting the end grain is good too! But any place water accumulates is a potential problem. In any case, it looks to me like you shouldn’t have to touch this again over the course of your life time.
Like usual, your work is impeccable and your video is extremely informative and detailed. Great work, Matt.
Thanks a lot!
each end of flashing needs silicon
@@Melicoy did you miss that part?
agree....
@@TheFixerHomeRepair Good Job Bro ! ✍
Looks great and wow was that trim rotten. Just a suggestion from what I've always been told, the drip cap on top of the top trim should have a 1/4" to 3/8" gap above it so that water can run out easily and won't wik up keeping the bottom of the siding shingles wet.
Gold star home inspection would say "no flashing on top of the window trim--that ain't right"
You did a great job and I learned a lot! Especially that Bondo has a finishing product! I also liked the fact you were happy with your own work!😊. Great video!
Thank you my friend. I just encountered the same exact thing on gable side window (no rain cap). I was thinking "I'm not sure I can do this repair". Now, I know I can (and will) using your great tips and technique.
I can't wait to see the whole house covered with Bondo.
😂
Most people don't realize Bondo is porous It sucks up water. I was a body man for 16 years In the family owned body shop. The very place I learned how to do PDR if anybody doesn't know paintless dent removal. Use as little Bondo as necessary.
I don't have all of those fancy tools and at my age I don't want to spend money on them. That angle on the bottom of the trim pieces threw me for a loop. I cut it as best as I could then used a belt sander on low until I got it close enough. Thanks for the video. I always learn from these videos.
Beautiful job! All the sills on our Apt house need this, but I doubt the Maint crew have any idea how to do it right like this! That rain cap is key to the whole thing! Thanks! Nice to see some real and sensible carpentry again! I remember my father teaching me the "flatten the nail tip to prevent splitting the wood" trick!
I love the way you explain things. Your finished window looks amazing. 👌
Hope those new babies are doing well. Glad to see a new video......PS I love the bloopers!!!
They babies are doing great, thanks for asking!
Always a good day when there's another video from The Fixer. And I had to watch it, right now.
👍😁
To the WINDOW --- To the WALLS !! Great video again !
🤣😁 thanks!
I needed this video like 6 months ago for this exact problem.
Great video brother. I see this problem every day of my life as a professional painter. Very few people know how to attack this problem.
Respects
Another job well done! I've searched and searched for basically this video, as all of my house sills are in a similar state of disrepair ('55 cape in the north east 😅) and you, sir did not disappoint! I'm glad I waited. I can always count on you to answer my home repair needs eventually! 😂
This is a good video. This Old House also has a very good bottom sill repair if you want to check it out. They're all very helpful, especially alot of us have older homes.
Good job on the repair. Looks better than new. I have worked on older home rehabs and can appreciate the effort you made to be sure you have a 50-year repair.
This is exactly what I needed. Except my project is on my second floor bedroom ! Not a bad slope but the window is tall. I'll be using flex tape thanks to you! Lucky for me I'm a nurse and I get a bunch of surgical cloths and laps from work to wipe all my paint/caulk/juju on. They were going to be trashed. Thanks so much!
My window sill also needed repairs, so I removed the windows and made my own sill. This took me about 4 days to fix. I also had to repair the stucco around the window. Doing the sill your way would have been much easier. Your repair came out great, and so did mine. Good job.
This is not that great at all lol 😂
This was awesome! Last year, I redid sills in windows in front of my house almost just like you did. They were rotted all the way across, and then about 4 inches up each side. I learned Lowes has mill lumber that matched the pattern of the uprights. Using pressure treated 2X's, I also had to match angles on the sill. Mine turned out to be 10 degrees, not 15, but my house is 1990 vintage. I had no training, or any direction whatsoever, I just decided to try it and see how it would turn out (and no way could I do it without that handy dandy oscillating tool). This year I get to do the ones in the back, so I'm very glad to see I was on the right path here. Thanks!
Awesome, good luck on the other ones and thanks for watching! 😃
Very nice job! love the attention to detail. I'm buying an older home, and I'm trying to figure out what I can do, and what I need to pay someone to do. Thank you! Great video.
So glad I found your channel, you’re a great teacher! The bloopers are an added bonus 😂
It will cost a little more, but PVC trim “lumber” is available and is a suitable alternative that will never rot.
Replaced the trim around my garage door with it. Works great.
I really appreciate the time you took to make it understandable for nonprofessionals. I'm not a fan of Bondo (I prefer Abatron's epoxy products), but your techniques are excellent. I have a 100 year old house, so It's nice to see someone working on an older home. I subscribed, so I can find you when I need help.
Can you answer in more detail?
Bondo does not expand and contract as wood does. You want to use a filler that does expand and contract.
So did I 😊
I'm a home owner/DIY, and working on a window project. You have built my confidence in completing my project. Thanks.
C. H. Warren
the suspense of if you were gonna finish before it rained!! Thanks for your videos. I always learn a lot.
I thoroughly enjoy watching your work! You pay such attention to detail! Thank you for posting! I hope you don't have like 10 or more windows to duplicate this on, seeing as how the other ones probably don't have the rain guards either. :(
Ditto, Perfecto
Excellent video for our future repairs. The person taking the video did an AWESOME JOB!!!! Loved how they followed you during each step!!!! 10 👍 up to your videographer❣️❣️❣️❣️Thanks for this informative video.
Wish I had someone as handy and knowledgeable as you🧐🥰
Helped put siding on my house I had years ago, it’s a lot of work. Someone else put in new windows.
Nice work sir! I would like to suggest you try Quad 400 instead of Alex caulk. It's a superior product for exterior work but it is NOT water clean up. Again, very nice work and great attention to details. Thank you.
While rot doesn't migrate, it does attract undesirable pests, such as roaches and other bugs. While it's not fun and more work, the best approach would have been to pull the window and replace all of the damage for a long-term solution. The flex tape you installed will prevent any trapped water from escaping, whereby allowing an unknown water leak within the wall. Best practice is to have a 1/8" gap on the bottom flange.
I have painted cedar shingles from the 1890s on my house, so I really appreciate this video! You don't see very many tutorials that incorporate what to do with this type of siding.
Thorough and precise. You are a very skilled artisan. Your channel is as good as "This Old House".
I know that I started with This Old House as a great resource YOUR video is so informative and very step by step !!! I loved it. Thank you and the videographer ❤❤
Great content! Done as a normal home owner, with decent skills would do !! Folks dealing with 20+ to older homes understand, or need to understand... square and plumb works on steel I beams, but not old homes. It is always a compromise. But I learned from you again today. "split the difference".... I do not usualy do that. But I will think in that way next to see if I can make it blend rather than have a good side and a bad side.
Great video! Love all things "repairs" to older houses. Very satisfying knowing that window is rock solid against the weather. Nice work! Liked your tip on splitting the difference when working on older homes.
Yes it’s so helpful that the work is on an older house. I’m in a very damp U.K. 50 yards from the beach in a 100 year old cottage built from rocks off the shore and with no insulation. Conditions are harsh and my wooden porch’s time is running out but also so much more to do to prevent further damage. I’ve never done diy before and have so much to learn, apparently there are different types of sandpaper for different jobs! Oh yes my lack of knowledge is as bad as that 🤦♀️
@@sheenavaughan2717 It might be a bit more time intensive, but useful to pre-paint the wood before you assemble everything. I had a rotten door frame due to rain (UK too) and painted the replacement timber to prevent rot even if there is water ingress. Sound counterintuitive but masonry paint works for that, since it's made to create a waterproof layer.
awesome job. you prolly saved 100s of bucks! and shoutout to the camera man, good zooming
This guy is very thorough. Takes pride in his work, and treats this job as if it were his own home.
I think it is his own home. The way he mentioned the framing being two years old from when he did a living room remodel. Regardless very thorough and does everything correctly like you said.
Yes it's his house.
Great attention to detail. So important to make the finished job look right
Nice detailed video as always. And, the outtakes are still on point! 🤣
Spray foam can be messy...but over time I learned if you drip it or a glob falls and you try to wipe it up it makes a big sticky mess. However, if you leave it alone where it expands too far and leave anything alone that drops until it cures before messing with it, it will peel off like tape with no mess and rarely any residue. The day I figured that out was indeed a great day.
Home ownership is rewarding but a lot of work! never ends... / good video!
Very nice work and attention to details. Your extra steps to insure accuracy will help this last much longer. I really enjoyed your positive attitude and simple explanations. Cheers!
Thanks David, I appreciate it!
Nice work. My only suggestion would have been to use low-expanding spray foam instead of the fiberglass insulation and AZEK trim boards.
He has said in a previous video he doesn’t like expandable foam.
Great finish - I've got some old ass wood windows that need just as much rehab.. Inspired to deal with them one at a time!! Thanks
33:30 Glad to see you primed the cut edges (especially the end grain which soaks up water like a sponge). Many new homes are built with carpenters neglecting to do this. As if the painters can prime them after the trim has been nailed ~ not! Eight years later and the trim has to be replaced.. remember, this new growth wood isn’t as tightly grained as the wood homes were built with in the last centuries. I’ve subscribed to your channel!
It's crazy that your trim was being used as your water barrier around your window.
My 1965 house is similar but I have a brick facade. The brickmold of the window is what held the window into the opening and was the weather barrier. Through me for a loop when i discovered that but they were the original windows and everything has been in much better condition than the window in this video.
Lol
2:56my wall doesn't even have framing. :/ House from late 1800's. My trim is 2x6's. Rotted, two anyway. The wood just comes out with my finger.
Why can't you paint the side that sits against window?
1956 house here. Asbestos siding, no insulation, and my trim was the water barrier. Rotted trim and sills almost everywhere. I cut 2 of my sills off just like he did. There is a drip cap. Right now I am replacing 4 big windows. What a trip!
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Thanks for watching! 😃
Awesome job, brother. Much respect from a canadian carpenter and father
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 LOVE THE BLOOPERS Matt👍 GREAT video hun💯 Thank You🤗
Oh damn! That really wasn't good! I'm only 9 sec in and my jaw is on the floor!
"Please don't split." Famous last worst as the cedar splits with the next tap. OOPS!
The new trim looks fantastic. Now you have to do the rest of the windows, HA.
Kudos to your "Videographer". Was it Mrs. Fixer? Whomever it was they did a great job!
The bloopers at the end are hilarious! Keep them coming!
See you in the next one!
LOL, clearly you edit this very well. Do love how you explain things so clearly.❤
Yo! that drip thing on the seal is neat. I didn’t know that. I use to watch This Old House every weekend. Are y’all related lol
This video needs to get watched, and I'm going to do it.... right now.
Thanks for this!
This has given me the confidence to replace some rotted wood under my ugly vinyl siding. I'll do it now & not put it off.
You make it look so simple! Great work!
Once again, you did and excellent job showing this process, step by step!
Hello Mr. Fixer, I enjoyed watching the water damage repair you did on the window frame of your house; it was awesome! We have a similar problem although we do not have a wood sill on the outside, it is brick. It seems that due to faluty caulking around the outside window frame, water has leaked in and rotted the bottom window frame as well as the wood trim inside. I wish you would live in Houston, Texas so we can hire you to do the reparing.
Thanks JM in Houston
Man you did great a job with that window repair and the video. Please come repair my window. I don't have those tools.
Great repair tutorial! I got the same rotten situation! Thanks for sharing this! 💯
Very nice videos one of the best I have seen 😊. It’s nice to see someone take their time and “thank the job out” and take pride in their work ❤.
I'm glad you did it the right way and didn't just bondo the rotten portions like other videos I've seen. Great job!
Excellent job, great video.
So nice to see you work! Great tips as well, thank you!
Excellent and thorough as always.
Nice work and a great job teaching us how and why you did each part.
You did an amazing job on this repair. Thank you for your great detail in every step. Your pretty amazing!
you made it look so easy... I appreciate the detail, without boring unedited vid.
Beautiful job there buddy. Thanks for sharing this with us. Kudos to the cameraman / lady.
Great video, well documented and explained!
Excellent job, very easy and simple to follow it as explained. Thank you!
Watched you video on redoing the cellar bulkhead door and learned a lot; still need to work on phase two of that this summer. Also need to do the window repair. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Dang great video man. Been learning a lot of tricks of the trade by working on my own house over the past three years and I've learned a lot but this was extremely informational especially when it came to window trim definitely going and feeling more confident
Awesome videos. I like that you show all the steps and have tips along the way.
This window repair is truly a work of art❗️👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Unbelievable work. And you just make the best of whatever comes your way. Another great video. Thanks
Is easy to follow. You show mistakes that everyone could make and make repairs easy for the viewer. Ty
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, extremely helpful.
Great Video and nice to see people doing their own home repairs as I did - cheers!
Ohmygoodnessgracioussakes!
Your work as ALWAYS...EXCELLENT!!
...and this time for sure....
EXCELLENT camera work!
Thank you for sharing your wonderful self & ideas!
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it!
I really enjoyed watching this video, The Fixer" and you did an excellent job on this window sill and trim restoration!👍
ANOTHER beautiful job Mr. Fixer!
As a house painter for 35 years, i was impressed with everything you did here, except at the very end where you caulked to bare wood.
Caulk wil not stick to bare wood for long; ALWAYS PRIME the bare wood with a quality oil based or HIGH quality latex primer ( Kilz , for instance) and you are properly sealed.
Also id use a urethane caulk on an exterior.
So tear it all out and do it again-😄
No, really i learned a couple things and its a great video-
And i like Flex tape these days too.
Im retired, but im doing this to a house we bought in the mountains now.
I just cringe when i see caulk applied to bare wood-😉
Great job, I like the fact that you took time to make it match the other windows and adding all the details. Good work. 😊
Great work young fella. Really enjoy your work. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for making such great video. Me as a DIY guy appreciates it alot.Lots of experts out the in comments, but i couldn't find their channels lol..Thank you again..your newest subscriber.
Excellent! This is exactly our situation with cedar shake siding over tar paper. Now I know what to do, and especially how and why I need to add a rain cap at the top before installing the new top brick molding piece. Many thanks!